Buy waterproofing for OSB plates. Buy waterproofing for OSB boards Waterproofing on the OSB wall from the outside liquid

Good afternoon!
We are building a frame house, it is sheathed with OSB boards, there is a roof - corrugated board, in winter it will go in this form. During the summer, after several rains, the OSB stratified in some places. Is it possible to cover the walls with a windproof film under the future ventilation facade for the winter and will it not lose its properties by spring? And what material is better to take: Isospan A, AD? The facade will be a blockhouse.

It is possible to cover an unprotected facade with a windproof film, but this will not completely solve the problem of preserving OSB. The fact is that the windproof membrane is designed for the impact of individual drops, which are the result of condensation on the roofing. A good slanting rain, downpour, sleet is beyond her power, the windproof membrane will “cry” with inside. Undoubtedly, the windscreen will reduce the wetting of the OSB, but it will not completely eliminate it.

Windproof membrane is a good thing when covered with exterior trim

OSB-3 boards, which, most likely, sheathed the frame of your house, can only be called moisture resistant with a stretch. And then we can talk about their resistance to moisture only in relation to chipboard, fiberboard, OSB-1 and OSB-2, which quickly collapse under the influence of water. OSB-3 is not intended to be used as an enclosing wall material without subsequent finishing, unlike, for example, from cement particle boards(CSP). By the way, in Canada and the USA, from where they came to us frame technologies, for decorating decent houses that should stand for a long time, they use waterproof plywood, chipboard is the lot of the poorest.

Manufacturers give such a characteristic as the degree of swelling of the oriented strand board when it is in water for a day. For OSB-3 it is 15%. This is not so little, contrary to the claims of sellers and manufacturers. Of course, on the walls, the particle boards are in a vertical position and are only exposed to slanting rain on one side. However, let's assume that it rains for a week or two, sleet, wet. The low air temperature and the lack of sun do not allow the walls to dry out.

Unprotected from rain OSB sheets properly soaked and swollen. At the same time, they will increase not only in thickness, but also in length and width, albeit not so significantly. As a result, the chipboard panels, rigidly fixed to the frame, will warp. And it’s not a fact that when they dry, they will take their original shape, residual deformations are very likely. In addition, the attachment points will weaken, delamination of the ends may occur (it has already begun for you), and the bonding strength will decrease. It is unlikely that in one season the particle boards will not suffer critical damage, but their service life will be reduced, the overall stability of the frame will decrease, this is a fact.

OSB is not a completely waterproof material; with prolonged exposure to moisture, it inevitably collapses.

In our opinion, the following options are possible for temporary protection of the unfinished facade from precipitation:

1. pull windproof membrane Izospan A (18 rubles / m2) on a vertical crate, use a bar 4-5 cm thick. The film is rather weak, it is not a fact that it will successfully survive the winter, it will not be torn by winds.
2. Use Isospan AM (24 rub/m2) or Isospan AS (35 rub/m2). A three-layer windshield is stronger, less water vapor permeable, but three times more waterproof, which means it will get wet less. Under the finish (blockhouse), it could be stretched without a crate, right along the slabs. But in your case, a ventilated gap and a crate are needed. It is necessary to ensure free air flow, the gap should be at the bottom and at the top, under the roof. Option #2 is preferable.
3. Stretch any vapor-waterproofing material cheaper along the crate in compliance with ventilation: roofing felt, building reinforced vapor barrier, dense polyethylene film for greenhouses (enough for one season). When cladding the facade, the waterproofing will have to be removed.

While there is no finish, polyethylene film can be used as a temporary protection, with or without reinforcement.

The right decision would still be to tighten up with finances and finish by autumn exterior finish, sheathing the facade with a blockhouse along a vertical crate. It will end up being cheaper, because the OSB boards themselves can serve as wind protection if they are neatly fitted. You don't have to spend money on tape.

Correct solution"puff pastry" frame wall. If the OSB boards fit well and the insulation is completely closed, they will also serve as wind insulation. There is no need to spend money on an additional membrane.

You can entrust the installation of floors to craftsmen, professional builders. They will do the floors quickly and efficiently. True, it is far from cheap. You can save money by laying the floors yourself. Moreover, the device of the floors is not anything particularly complicated. It is only necessary to carefully study the technology of their installation and put into practice the knowledge gained correctly, in a certain sequence. Below we will talk about how to make OSB floors yourself, choose the material, what tools you need, about the work that needs to be done.

Osp is, let's say, a sandwich, which can consist of 3 or more layers. Two (upper and lower) layers are pressed boards made from wood shavings. The shavings are laid lengthwise in the outer layers of the slabs and across in the inner ones. Therefore, the board as a whole is called oriented strand board. The chips can be impregnated boric acid, wax, formaldehyde resins. Between the layers there is a heater, which can be used as polystyrene foam, as well as polyurethane foam.

OSB is mainly used in construction and furniture manufacturing. Marked and used as follows:

• OSB-1 - for the production of furniture, packaging or surface cladding;
• OSB-2 - in dry rooms for the installation of load-bearing structures and surfaces;
• OSB-3 - in rooms with high humidity;
• OSB-4 - for structures that are subjected to heavy loads, as well as located in places where humidity is high.

OSB can be lacquered on one side, laminated, grooved, or double or four sides.

The plate is a rectangle with the following dimensions:

• thickness from 8 mm to 38;
• length - 2440 mm;
• width - 1220 mm;

Above we have given the dimensions standard plate. Sometimes on sale you can find OSB with dimensions - 1.25 meters by 2.5.

The advantages of OSB are as follows:

1. low cost;
2. light weight;
3. easy and well processed;
4. durable;
5. moisture resistance;
6. does not dry out, does not exfoliate, does not rot;
7. mold and insects do not start.

Unfortunately, there are restrictions on the use of OSB. When pressed, the chips are impregnated with resins that contain toxic substances. They constantly highlight environment volatile compounds of these substances. Therefore, when choosing a plate, you need to pay attention to how much of these substances is emitted by a particular brand of plate, and in which area it is allowed to use it.

OSB flooring

There are two types of OSB floors. The first one consists of concrete screed, waterproofing, intermediate subfloor, OSB itself. The second type is waterproofing, logs, preferably a subfloor, OSB.

Materials and tools

It is better to buy a plate grooved. From two opposite sides there should be tongues, and from the other two - grooves. This board is easier to install.

The lag is a beam. In construction, for the manufacture of logs, they mainly use timber with dimensions of 5 by 5 centimeters or 5 by 7. The number of logs depends on how the structure itself will be arranged. flooring. If there is no subfloor, then the number of lags increases.

If you plan to put the floor on the screed, then you will need a rail, because it is impossible to lay the slab directly on the screed, even if waterproofing is laid on it. Any wooden product must breathe, that is, take in air and give off accumulated moisture. It is for this that they make a gap between the floors and the screed. Otherwise, from the moisture accumulated in the product, and the tree already stores moisture in itself, and even absorbs it from the screed, it will begin to rot and, in the end, will become unusable, no matter how well it was made.

Can be used for subfloor edged board or plywood, OSB itself.

To make a screed, you will need cement of a grade of at least M-300 and sand. You can prepare the solution yourself, but it’s easier to buy a ready-made dry sand-cement mixture in the store. Consumption per sq. m. is indicated on the packaging. Concrete mix, which includes filler, gravel, crushed stone and the like, should not be done at home. Manually forever quality concrete mortar don't cook.

For a better and even floor filling, you will need beacons.

In Russia, a plinth is usually installed on the floors. It also serves as a decorative detail, and closes the gap between the wall and the floors. The slot is made specifically, based on the expansion of the board with increasing temperature. If it is not planned, then you can do without the plinth.

The slab is usually fastened to the beam with nails and glued with glue. So, we need both glue and nails. When installing floors, screw nails or self-tapping screws are used.

To seal the cracks, you will need wood putty. So, you will also need a spatula. You will need a wooden hammer, a mallet for rallying the plates, a metal hammer.

Stages of floor installation

All laying of any floor is divided into three main stages:

• preparation;
• main works;
• cleaning.

The last stage is known to all. Therefore, we will not consider it.

Preparatory stage

In the future, we will conduct all the arguments, keeping in mind that the installation of floors is carried out in a residential area. AT utility rooms or buildings, the floors are laid in the same way and in the same sequence as in the apartment. Only the restrictions are less and the requirements are lower. We will break all stages into stages. Let's call them steps and represent our reasoning in the form step by step instructions for the performance of work.

So, preparatory work.

Step one. Choose the type of floor. That is, we decide whether we will put it on a screed or on. If we choose lags, it is better to first draw a drawing of their location. It will help to correctly calculate the number of lags.

2nd step. We calculate the scope of work, draw up an estimate of costs.

3rd step. We are purchasing materials. When purchasing a stove, be sure to pay attention to the fact that it matches sanitary standards. It is advisable to buy lumber, a board for a subfloor, a bar, a rail already dried and treated with fire-fighting and antiseptics. If it was not possible to purchase such lumber, then you will have to buy an antiseptic and process the wood yourself.

4th step. We process the plate, remove burrs and irregularities from the edges. We treat the lumber with an antiseptic and put it to dry. It is laid in layers. A gasket is made between the layers. It is needed so that the material breathes, dries evenly and quickly. The wood dries for at least a day. The temperature during drying should be +10 degrees and above.

5th step. If the floor is laid for the first time, then the remaining after construction works trash.

If the OSB is laid instead of the old floor, then the old one is, of course, when it cannot be used as a rough one. The floor must be dismantled carefully so as not to damage the plaster on the walls. To do this, take out the nails and remove the board, then remove the logs. We release the floor rail (each) from the grooves, move it to the side and remove it.

6th step. We install beacons to level the floor. At least three marks on each wall. We draw a line between them. Between the wall and the line, the measurement at any point is reported to show an angle equal to 90 degrees.

OSB floor installation

If the floor will be mounted on a screed, then we will have to perform several actions.

1. We install beacons for pouring the screed. The distance between them should be no more than 50-60 cm. So the screed will be more even. We check the installation of beacons by level. If there is a slope, we level it.

2. We prepare the solution. It should not be too liquid and too thick. We fill in the place prepared for the screed, level the solution with the rule flush with the installed beacons.

The screed will set in a day, it will be possible to work on it. But she will gain full strength no earlier than in two weeks, depending on the temperature in the room. The higher the temperature, the faster the screed gains strength. Hence the conclusion: heavy objects can be placed on the newly laid floor no earlier than after 14 days.

3. After the screed has seized, we check its level. If there are irregularities, slopes, fill in an additional layer of mortar to level it.

If the screed turned out to be even, then we lay waterproofing on top of it. You can use a simple roofing material or any other material intended for these purposes. We lay the rail on top of the insulation. We would advise you to lay it both along and across, in the form of rectangles, the sides of which are aligned. Their dimensions should correspond to the dimensions of the plate or be slightly smaller. We coat the rail with glue.

We also allow the installation of plates without the use of rails. In this case, the concrete screed is smeared with rubber glue.

4. Put the plate on the rail. We take a mallet and knock down the plates as tightly as possible. The tongue must fully enter the groove. Ideally, there should be no gap between the plates.

5. We fasten the plates with the rail using nails or self-tapping screws.

Video - Laying OSB on concrete

If the OSB is laid directly on the logs, then it is better to install them along and across. The fact is that OSB is a complex structure and it is not known how it will behave after shrinkage, shaking, shrinkage. And laying logs in the form of rectangles will reduce the load on the slab itself and reduce the likelihood of defects. All other actions that need to be performed are exactly the same as when installing the floor on the screed.

Let me give you one piece of advice. The best, in our opinion, OSB flooring is a design that provides for the installation of an intermediate subfloor. It will give the entire floor additional strength, stability and significantly reduce the load on the coating itself, i.e. on the slab. As an intermediate floor, you can use the slab itself, and plywood, and the old floor. But the latter can only be used when it is well preserved and does not have serious defects. It must be removed from all old paint, straighten, repair cracks. Scratches, sand, treat with an antiseptic, and only after these preparatory work you can lay a slab. Actually, both on plywood and on OSB, which will be the subfloor, all defects and cracks also need to be repaired. The remaining steps for laying the final floor, we have already described above.

Video - Do-it-yourself OSB floor (on logs with insulation)

Bathroom and toilet in wooden frame house are known to require works such as waterproofing and quality finish, which you can do with your own hands, so as not to overpay for the services of specialists. The walls of such premises, especially in a wooden frame house, have their own characteristics: the bathroom needs not only high-quality waterproofing but also vapor barrier.

For bathroom decoration wooden house usually ceramic tiles are used, although the options can be very different. The article will consider the question of how best to finish the walls in the bathroom. wooden house, as well as how waterproofing and other important work is carried out in the bathroom.

Arrangement of a bathroom in a frame house

The main thing to consider when sheathing a bathroom or a bathroom, and the walls in a wooden house as a whole, is high-quality waterproofing. In the process of work, the following points must be taken into account:

1. Waterproofing is carried out using vapor barrier and waterproofing membranes. Sometimes ordinary polyethylene film can also be used, but it must be very dense. In general, plastic film is usually used to vapor barrier the walls of a wooden house, and special membranes are purchased for the bathroom. You can also use special mastic, but it is quite expensive. The membrane is fixed on the walls of the bathroom (or if you take the bathroom as a whole) using a special construction stapler;
2. On membranes it is necessary to install metallic profile, which will serve as the basis (a crate for future wall cladding). The walls are sheathed with sheets of special moisture-resistant drywall, and not in one layer, but in two at once. This is important point: the humidity level in the bathroom is too high, this can lead to corrosion of the walls, the appearance of fungus, mold and other “troubles”. Therefore, drywall is sheathed in 2 layers;
3. The first sheets for sheathing are always fastened with self-tapping screws, and the next ones - using a special adhesive. Thanks to this, the caps of the self-tapping screws will not need to be coated with a special sealant to avoid the appearance of rust;
4. As a decorative cladding for the walls of the bathroom of a wooden house, experts recommend using ordinary PVC panels. You can easily sheathe a bathroom with their help with your own hands, this does not require special skills and abilities. Another 2 good options are the use of ceramic tiles or moisture-resistant emulsion paint. The only thing to consider when facing the walls of the bathroom of a wooden house is that the seams between the tiles must be treated with a thick and plastic fugue. This is necessary to prevent moisture from entering the seams between the tiles, which can lead to erosion of the internal adhesive base. In fact, the use of a fugue for processing tile joints is the same waterproofing, although it is easier to sheathe the surface with drywall.

   
   Scheme of a bathroom device in a frame house

PVC panels are considered the best material for cladding bathroom walls in a frame house.

Ceiling device

The principle of arranging the ceiling in the bathroom of a wooden house is practically the same as arranging the walls. The ceiling in the bathroom is equipped with the following technology:

1. A vapor barrier membrane is attached to the ceiling beams (sometimes you can hear the term "vapor barrier" - this is the same thing);
2. To the pinned vapor barrier membrane either rails are attached, or, as in the case of wall cladding, the same metal profile;
3. Using self-tapping screws, sheets of moisture-resistant drywall are fixed to the installed metal profile (or rails). If in the case of wall cladding it is recommended to use 2 layers of drywall at once, then one is enough for the ceiling. However, the second layer will also not be superfluous, if there is enough drywall - you can make a double skin;
4. Since the second layer of moisture-resistant drywall is most often not mounted on the ceiling, the caps metal screws be sure to cover with a special sealant or mastic to avoid corrosion on them;
5. After the screws have been treated with sealant, you can proceed to the ceiling sheathing plastic panels. Here you can immediately tell about one nuance: if polyvinyl chloride (PVC) panels were used for wall cladding, then the same material must be used for ceiling cladding. The only exception to this rule is if ceramic tiles were used for wall decoration. It is clear that it will be impossible to mount ceramic tiles on the bathroom ceiling. In this case, you can use dropped ceilings imitating real ceramic tiles with their pattern and texture. By the way, the crate described above is just right for suspended tiled ceilings; it is impossible to make it any other, complicating the entire structure;
6. For wall decoration in the bathroom frame houses It is not recommended to use heavy, from the point of view of physics, materials. Frame panel houses have relatively lightweight construction. Finishing, waterproofing should not involve the use of heavy materials. For example, if wall decoration will be carried out natural stone(or wooden shingles, for example), then this will significantly increase the load on the building as a whole.

Self-tapping screws do not need to be treated with sealant if moisture-resistant drywall is laid in 2 layers.

In general, we can conclude that the walls are finished almost exactly the same as the ceiling. A bathroom in a frame house will not be any exception here.

Floor installation

It’s worth mentioning right away that the floor in the frame house, located in the bathroom, will receive the greatest load, especially if the bathroom is located not on the first, but on the second floor.

It is for this reason that the waterproofing and finishing of the floor must be done in the best possible way. First of all, chipboards are laid on top of the subfloor (their marking of great importance does not have). They have a fairly high density, are durable and resistant to high humidity.

Laying on chipboard waterproofing film. And already a cement screed is poured on top of the film. I must say that without a cement screed, the floor in panel houses cannot be used, otherwise it will simply rot (meaning the bathroom and the bathroom, and not all the rooms at once).

At this stage of work, the following nuances must be taken into account:

1. It is allowed not to use a screed if the bathroom is located on the second floor. In this case the best way- this is the laying of OSB slabs on the subfloor, on top of which a waterproofing and vapor barrier film. And on the film you can already mount PVC panels or any other decorative coating. The only thing you should not do is to lay tiles on the floor of the second floor. It weighs quite a lot, which will significantly increase the load on the ceiling of a not very stable panel frame house;
2. For heating a bathroom in a frame house, it is recommended to use a “warm floor” system, but not electric, but water. Why is it worth choosing a water "warm floor"? Elementary for the sake of security, because in a wooden house electrical communications should generally be at a minimum. Shield house from short circuit it can flare up just like a match - and nothing will help later;
3. When installing a warm floor, you can not use any insulation, but only one that is made on a foil basis. A foil-based insulation will, as it were, reflect heat, the efficiency of a warm floor in this case will be significantly increased;
4. If linoleum will be laid in the bathroom (often the floor is finished with it), then it must be cut not strictly along the perimeter of the floor, but with some (5-10 centimeters) overlap on the walls. This will avoid water leakage on the floors of a wooden frame house.

If the bathroom is on the second floor, then cement screed it is not recommended to do it there because of its large weight.

Video

You can watch a video where experts talk about how to finish rooms with high humidity.

Oriented Strand Board (OSB), which is used inside a dry room, does not need any additional protection from moisture. In the worst conditions, the outer skin of the house from this slab turns out to be. Over time, it darkens not only from rain, but also from solar ultraviolet radiation. Of course, you can close the slabs with siding or a blockhouse, but this is associated with at great expense. How to treat OSB (OSB) board from moisture is not an easy question. Let's try to answer it.

Is additional processing needed?

Moisture resistance of oriented strand boards is characterized by the amount of swelling in thickness during the day. According to this parameter, according to the American standard PS 2, European EN-300 and Russian GOST 10632-89, the plates are divided into 4 types (see table).

Recall that for outer skin buildings, only OSB-3 and OSB-4 boards are allowed.

If the constructed structure still somehow gets off, then during the construction of the OSB slabs lie on the construction site in packs. Even after one rain, several top sheets swell almost one and a half times. They stay that way even after drying. The rest of the sheets swell at the ends. By the way, in North American products, the ends are painted with blood-red impregnation to avoid this.

There is an opinion among some builders that OSB boards do not need additional processing, since they are already impregnated with resins, waxed, varnished. Experience shows that after 2-3 years they appearance loses its original freshness, they darken, in some places individual chips bulge out, the joints protrude sloppily.

Therefore, additional hydrophobic treatment will not be superfluous, especially if it is the facade of a residential building without any cladding. Consider how to process OSB board from moisture.

1. Transparent impregnations

Most cheap option processing - water-repellent colorless impregnations. Special solutions not for OSB. You can use any means for wood, with the exception of those prepared on water based. Examples of such compositions:

• Antiseptic impregnation for wood Elcon on a silicone basis. Designed for long term protection wooden structures from atmospheric influences, rotting, mold. Scope: for internal and external works. Forms a water-repellent film, non-toxic, allows the tree to "breathe".
• Innovative domestic hydrophobic composition NEOGARD-Derevo-40 based on organosilicon oligomers. Designed to impart water-repellent properties to wood products and materials based on it: plywood, chipboard, fiberboard. Water absorption for chipboard is reduced by 15 - 25 times. Obviously, it is also suitable for OSB. Does not change the natural color of the material, protective properties kept for at least 5 years.

The most suitable for protecting wood (and OSB) from moisture is the so-called yacht varnish on a urethane-alkyd or alkyd-urethane basis. Some of the popular brands:

• Tikkurila UNIKA SUPER (Finland). This brand is the leader in impact resistance external environment, immunity to ultraviolet radiation and temperature changes.
• Marshall protex (Turkey). Creates a plastic surface film.
• Marshall Protex Yat Vernik. Possesses the increased izno-and moisture resistance.
• PARADE (Russia). Retains freshness for a long time.
• Belinka Yacht (Russia). It has dirt and water repellent properties, emphasizes the texture of wood materials.
• Antiseptic varnish for wood "Drevolak" on acrylic base with the addition of wax (Russia). Along with antiseptic and antibacterial action successfully protects wood from moisture.

Since OSB is a product of wood processing, then paints and varnishes(LMB) the same ones can be used for them:

• Oil paints. Due to the presence of polymer resins in the composition of the OSB, varnish-based paints do not always adhere well to the surface to be painted. For better adhesion to the substrate, it is recommended to perform a double priming with an intermediate putty before painting. Despite this, oil-based coatings under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, temperature changes and precipitation prone to fading, cracking, up to flaking. We can recommend a paint based on natural and modified PINOTEX WOOD OIL SPRAY, which resists well to external factors.
• Alkyd paints are better suited chipboard, since they contain alkyd resin, as a product of the chemical interaction of natural oils with acids. Their adhesion is higher compared to oil coatings, they dry faster and more successfully resist atmospheric influences.
• Acrylic compositions, being inexpensive and durable in operation, are distinguished by an optimal ratio of qualities and are most in demand for painting wood. In addition, they are available in a wide range of colors.

Attention: pre-treat a small surface in an inconspicuous place to make sure that the material does not swell under the influence of an aqueous acrylic suspension.

In conclusion, we can say that it is difficult to unequivocally answer the question: how to process the OSB (OSB) board from moisture. First: it depends on whether you want to emphasize the texture of the plate clear solution or, conversely, apply a opaque (opaque) coating. Secondly: - from the financial capabilities and aesthetic ideas of the developer.

Modern construction technologies, like any other, allow you to equip a bathroom as complete as in a block or brick house. For such buildings, there are no special restrictions regarding the use of finishing materials and engineering systems. In such a house, the bathroom can be located on the first floor, and on the second, and even on the third. Use of new production technologies, enhanced for , allow you to do this. However, the first floor, near bearing wall This is the perfect place to decorate your bathroom.

From above, it is covered with waterproofing, which also covers the lower part of the walls. Outwardly, it looks like a trough. From above, this sandwich is again poured with concrete, on which the tiles will be attached.

The design of such a floor is characterized by significant weight - up to 200 kg per square meter. meter. This should be kept in mind when designing, calculating the number and performance of floor beams.

DIY: an example of waterproofing a bathroom

This is more simple and, accordingly, somewhat less quality way waterproofing for a wooden house. It consists in the fact that on, directly on the boards, a sheet of plastic linoleum is laid. The piece is cut out taking into account the overlap on the walls, 5 cm in size, and mounted with a bend upwards. In places of its contact with the walls, it is attached with glue, then this place is poured.

Even at the design stage, it is necessary to think over the future arrangement of mandatory ventilation ducts. The ideal would be the construction of a special drain drain. The floors for this are made with a certain slope; a drain is provided for them.

Another way to make a bathroom

Walls. sheathing

As noted above, competent waterproofing is the most important characteristic frame bathroom. It would be more accurate to say reliable isolation all elements from the tree. On the bearing structures for this, a vapor barrier membrane is laid (using a construction stapler). Then metal profiles are placed, designed to become the basis for the subsequent upholstery of the walls.

They are upholstered with sheets of special, moisture resistant (GKLV). To enhance their strength and reliability of waterproofing, this is done in two layers. The first layer is attached to the profile with self-tapping screws, the second is special adhesive composition. So the walls acquire the strength they need, and there is no need to seal the caps of the self-tapping screws. When the installation with KGLV sheets is completely completed, plastic is poured into the joints between them. Now you can start finishing.

Its role in this case can be played by PVC panels, ceramic bathroom tiles, special types coloring. Tiles or panels are considered the most preferred, as they provide the entire structure with greater hydro-vapor protection.

Ceramic tiles and panels in frame structure, as in any other house, are attached with special glue.

But for grouting the resulting joints, a special, plastic tool is used. This is due to the properties of GKLV.

Bathroom: ceiling device

The technology and procedure for installing the ceiling in the bathroom in practice resembles the arrangement of walls. First, a vapor barrier is securely attached to the beams, followed by a metal profile or rails. A special moisture-resistant drywall is mounted to the profile with self-tapping nails. Further, all existing joints are securely insulated with sealant.

The ceiling does not require a second layer of drywall sheets, so the caps of the screws, in order to avoid corrosion, must also be processed. Next is the turn of PVC panels. It is rational and practical finishing material, with good attitude prices to quality. More expensive way of ceiling covering - stretch ceiling. It meets all the existing requirements for hydro-vapor barrier, but needs a more careful attitude during operation. It is also better to play it safe and install additional ventilation in the ceiling of the bathroom.

Floor in a frame house: bathroom installation

These types of materials have excellent moisture resistance, they are quite durable, made of harmless materials, which allows you to use them as a base for the floor. Then comes a layer of film waterproofing, which is poured with a cement screed.

What should be taken into account when carrying out these works?

• Which is better to use for the bathroom in