Outdoor cable can be laid in two ways. Today we will talk in detail about each of them. It will also highlight the main features various kinds cables. At the end of the article, you can find out which one is best suited in a particular case.
Selection and installation methods power cable
Cable for street laying can be installed in two different ways:
You can also use cables that already have carrying cable(For example, ).
But most the best option connections country house today is an insulated self-supporting SIP wire. For example, in and , the zero core performs a supporting function, and in and - twisted cores represent a supporting structure.
Underground. Here you select a cable for street wiring, designed to work underground. For this purpose, you can purchase or. These cables can be used without using additional protection lay in the ground, as they have armor made of galvanized tapes. If it is necessary to lay the cable in places where ground subsidence is possible, then cables with wire armor must be used, for example or.
If you choose another type (for example, VVG or), then it must be laid in a protective metal pipe or box.
Selection and installation methods of UTP and FTP information cables
Outdoor cable is a twisted pair cable with a common foil screen and a copper conductor to drain induced currents. It is usually used for outer gasket, while outdoor cable is an unshielded twisted pair. In principle, both the first and the second can be laid outdoors if the cable sheath is made of light-stabilized polyethylene, for example or. In other cases, it is necessary to protect the cable from exposure sunlight and wind loads. For this purpose, it can be hidden in corrugated pipe. Installation of both types of cables is carried out according to the same technology as the power cable. However, it must be remembered that the outdoor twisted-pair cable must be laid separately from the power lines.
How to lay communications underground?
First you need to select and mark out a piece of land where the supports will be installed and the cable will be laid. It is necessary that from the nearest big trees kept a distance of 1 meter. Also, during the laying process, it is necessary to avoid crossing it with other cables and other places of increased load on the ground.
Then you need to dig a trench as shown in the figure. Its depth should be at least 70 cm, taking into account the pillow - about 80 cm. The trench must be cleared of solid objects that can damage the cable sheath.
Cable laying is carried out on a pre-prepared sand cushion a layer of at least 5 cm, ideally - about 10 cm.
The cable for street laying before laying in a trench must be checked for integrity using a megohmmeter or a digital tester - “tseshki”.
The cable for the street must be laid with a “snake” so that there are no tensions.
After that you need to do following conditions: cover the cable with sand (layer thickness - 10 cm), soil (15 cm layer), tamp given place feet, lay a signal tape (when carrying out earthworks do not damage the cable!), so that its middle is located above the cable.
Next, completely fill the trench, making a small slide. The soil should settle over time. Finally, measure the insulation resistance of the cable again to make sure that the cable was not damaged during installation.
How to lay communications over the air?
If the cable does not have any load-bearing element, then when laying through the air, it is recommended to use a galvanized steel cable. If the length of the cable to be laid does not exceed 80 meters, then the cross section of the cable should be from 1 to 1.5 mm 2.
The cable is laid through the air with its direct fastening along the entire length to the cable due to nylon ties every 50 cm. The cable does not need to be pulled all the way. It is better to attach it to the cable with a little sagging.
Naturally, a cable that has a built-in cable is much faster and easier to lay through the air.
Which method and cable is better?
The air way of laying electrical communications is more expedient if you need to lay a street cable several meters long. It will be much faster, but less aesthetically pleasing and reliable. Underground - better and more durable. It is better to resort to this method when there is a rather significant distance from the pole to the house. It is also more suitable for organizing a full-fledged outdoor lighting system.
For the air method, it is better to use cables with a built-in cable.
Underground is more expedient to lay armored cable VBbShv, but you can limit yourself to VVG. Here the final choice is made by the customer, depending on their financial capabilities.
Hello, in this article I will tell you, methods of attaching the cable to the wall and to the ceiling.
There are two types of wiring installation: open and hidden, and for each type, you can choose a specific method of attaching wires to the wall. Below we take a detailed look at all existing methods mounts, as well as the pros and cons of each of them.
outdoor wiring
For mounting open wiring the cable is attached to finished walls with decorative trim. Often, given type electrical installation is used in wooden houses and buildings on summer cottages as well as in garages. For fastening wires directly to the walls, the following devices are used - cable channels, clips or special porcelain insulators. Let's take a closer look at each of these materials.
Cable channels
Today it is widespread the use of special plastic channels for fastening wires and cables. Firstly, cable channels have a low price, and secondly, they look neat, and, most importantly, they allow you to fix several wires in one place. For self-assembly wires into cable channels, it is only necessary to fix the plastic box on the wall using self-tapping screws. The manufacturer also produces specialized connections for attaching several cables in one line. After fixing the cable channel, place all the cables in it and close the front cover by simply snapping it on.
Learn how to fix the cable channel to the ceiling and wall
PVC plastic pipes and corrugated tube
Pipes and corrugations for pulling wires in them are produced in the following sizes 16 20 25 32 40 50 mm. They are designed to protect electrical wires and cables from mechanical damage at the stage of repair and operation of the premises, as well as necessary for fire safety.
PVC pipe and corrugated pipe are fastened with clips and iron staples of the same size.
To stretch the VVGng 3x1.5 cable to a length of 1 meter, you will need a corrugation of 16 diameters and clips of 16. Measure the required length of the corrugated tube and cut it with a knife, there should be steel wire inside. After that, attach one end of the steel wire to the VVGng 3x1.5 cable, and the other end to a rigidly fixed base (heating pipe, etc.).
Stretch the steel wire from the side of the cable and, holding the corrugation, pull forward, and the cable will begin to be pulled inward. When the cable comes out of the other end of the corrugated tube, the steel wire can be cut off.
For cables of a different section, select the corrugation so that the cable can easily pass inward and not break it, but if this happens, connect the two pieces and wrap with electrical tape (after tightening the cable).
When using a PVC pipe with a length of more than 10 meters, use a steel wire 2mm or 3mm, after tightening it inside the pipe (after installing the entire route). To make a corner or bypass an obstacle, use the corrugation and couplings identical size. Also, couplings are necessary when connecting pipes to each other.
Clips and iron staples
The use of clips or wire clamps is only suitable for wiring in plastic pipes PVC or in corrugated tube.
Iron staples are used when it is necessary to fix a heavy area, because. the clip may not hold.
Fastening clips is faster than staples, because when installing three pipes or corrugations, we need to make holes for each clip, and for three clips there are only two holes, because. clips can be connected to each other.
Clips and iron staples release different diameters 16 20 25 32 40 50 mm.
An example of fastening clips to the ceiling for mounting five pipes or corrugations.
To fix the corrugated tube at a distance of 1 meter or more, the step between the clips should be no more than 60 cm (make sure that the corrugation does not sag between the clips)
Mounting clip distance pvc pipes no more than 1 meter.
When installing one line of PVC pipes or corrugations, clips combined with plugs can be used.
Nail staples
This type of attachment is not suitable for cable installation. large section, they are usually used for attaching television and telephone cables, as well as lines from the Internet.
Hidden wiring
This method of wiring installation is carried out in strobes, then the wall is covered plaster mortar, also the cable can be fixed without recessing into the strobe, but then the consumption of plaster will increase. In the walls panel house electrical wiring runs in special channels inside the wall and ceiling, poured with concrete at the factory.
Dowel clamp is plastic fastener, it can be used to secure the cable to various surfaces: concrete, brick, foam block, aerated concrete block.
Dowel clamps are produced in the following sizes: 5-10, 11-18, 19-25.
An example of fastening a cable VVGng 3x1.5 with a dowel-clamp in a strobe or without
- Take a hammer drill with a 6mm drill and drill holes in the wall or ceiling in 30 cm increments.
- Straighten the cable so that it lies flat against the wall without twists or kinks.
- Take a dowel clamp size 5-10
- Fasten the cable to the wall with a clamp
Fast drying solution
This solution includes building gypsum, alabaster. The solution can only be used for fixing cables in the wall gate, because. in other cases it is not appropriate.
The method of fixing the electrical wiring in the gate with alabaster:
- Prepare a cable of the required cross section
- Mix some solution
- Lay the cable in the strobe and apply alabaster in the strobe with a spatula in increments of 40 cm.
Homemade staples
These brackets can be made from a flat 2-core cable, a single cable core, or from tin can from coffee. With the help of brackets, you can fix a large bundle of cable routes.
An example of fastening a VVGng 3x1.5 cable with a 2-core cable:
- Cut a 2-core cable into 7 centimeters
- Make holes in the strobe with a 6mm drill with a 40cm step
- Drive dowel plugs into holes
- Fasten the cut strips of cable in the gate by screwing the screws through the center of the 2-core cable into the plug
- Straighten the cable to be laid and fix it with a 2-core cable
To use one 1.5 mm copper core instead of a 2-core cable, you need to do all the same points except for the 4th one, and instead of it, screw the core onto the screw and screw it into the cork.
Thank you for your attention!
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Rating: 4.7 out of 5 ( 26 votes)When installing or repairing wiring, you have to mount wires and cables. Also, if it is necessary to install a new powerful household appliances sometimes you have to draw a separate line from . In any case, you have to somehow mount the wires on the walls or ceiling. What can be the cable fastening for each of these cases and we will continue to understand.
General rules
With hidden or open cable installation, indoors or outdoors, there are a few general rules:
Basically, recommendations are everything. They are versatile and easy. The distance can be reduced if necessary. For example, at the turns of the track, fasteners are installed at a small distance from the bend - 5-10 cm. The task is to ensure reliable fixation and prevent sagging.
Methods of fastening to different surfaces
Walls and ceilings are made of various materials having different structure and density. Depending on this characteristic, the method of fastening changes:
Actually, these are all the surfaces that are found inside the house when laying the wiring. But sometimes the cable must also be attached to the pole, for example, when the electricity supply from the pole to the house stretches or to the pipe - when the cable climbs a combustible wall.
To the concrete pillar
The cable is attached to the reinforced concrete pole with long black plastic ties. They serve about 5 years.
Mounting clamps can be used sewer pipes, but under them it is necessary to drill holes, which is very difficult. Another option - if there is a ground wire on the pole - a round wire with a diameter of 5-6 mm, then you can fasten it with ties. Another option is to fix strips of metal on the pole - make something like clamps, and attach the cable to them.
In a metal pipe
If the cable climbs the wall of the house in a metal pipe, it is simply launched inside. Since fairly solid cables are used for outdoor wiring, its rigidity is usually enough to more or less stay inside the pipe.
From above and below, the pipe is closed with some kind of cork (you can cut it out of foam and then paint it together with the pipe). This plug will additionally fix the position of the cable (do not press it to the edge), and so that it does not move inside the pipe, it is attached to the wall at the exit from it.
To the rope
To attach the cable to the cable, special metal and plastic hangers are used. They consist of two parts - there is a hole for the cable and a larger one for laying cables.
Which is better - metal or plastic? Metal ones are more durable, but take longer to install - you need to tighten the screw. Plastic ones will serve for about 5 years, but they are installed quickly - the “tail” is pulled into the corresponding hole, tightened. That's all.
Fasteners for cable and wires: types and varieties
For any type of wiring and cable installation, the same types of fasteners can be used. It is selected based on the existing conditions, opportunities and tastes of the owners. The main task is to ensure high-quality fixation and not violate the insulation either during installation or during further work and operation. And choose the type of fastening from options. There are quite a few of them - there are special ones that are produced specifically for cables, there are borrowed from other areas, there are home-made ones.
Cable clips
Using clips, you can fix the cable on the wall, ceiling, on the floor. You just have to pick correct design, and there are many of them. Fastening the cable with clips is a very popular method - it can turn out very neatly and almost imperceptibly. This is if open wiring is supposed to be laid.
Clips for cable installation are metal and plastic, and different shapes. The simplest are in the form of a bow, which has holes for self-tapping screws or dowels on one side and the other. They are all good, but installation requires drilling two holes, and this takes a lot of time.
There is an option that allows you to withstand the fire gap when installing the power cable on combustible surfaces (pictured left). This fastener is fixed with one self-tapping screw to the surface. It is good in that, if necessary, threads can be added to the same fasteners. To do this, you do not have to remove it, you will need to unscrew the screws holding upper part clips.
The third option is a kind of loop from a strip of metal. To install it, you first need to bring the cables inside, then align the holes and fix it on the surface.
All these clips can be used both on the wall and on the ceiling. But when laying a large number of threads on the ceiling, they are inconvenient - too many mounting holes are required. They are made of metal, part is then painted - so that the fasteners stand out less during external laying.
Plastic clips are mainly used for fixing cables in corrugated hoses. There are they different sizes for various corrugation diameters. They can be installed both individually and assembled in lines - for more accurate installation of large bundles of wiring. This type of clips is used mainly for hidden gaskets, but if the corrugation is laid outside, then it is more convenient to fix it with their help.
Dowel clip
More inconspicuous during installation is the dowel-clip. This is a curved strip of plastic with characteristic branches at the ends, which, due to the force of elasticity, will hold the fasteners in the material of the wall or ceiling. The shape of these products is available for round and flat cables of various sizes. But you can’t fix serious cables with them - they are too small. But they look very neat on conductors of small sections, including television, telephone and Internet.
Easy to install: drill a hole suitable diameter, a conductor is inserted into the clip, the ends are tucked into the hole and inserted with force. A really good option - quickly mounted, you look neat. Mainly used for open wiring.
Dowel-screed
Another option for quick cable attachment is a dowel tie. It is made of non-flammable self-extinguishing plastics, allows you to quickly mount cable lines. It can be used for both surface and concealed installation.
Dowel-screed - quick and convenient way fix the cable to concrete, brick and other surfaces
There is a coupler with a detachable and one-piece lock. The detachable lock allows you to change the number of wires if necessary. The installation method is the same as for a conventional dowel. The difference is that the dowel here is also plastic.
Cable ties with dowel platform (KSP)
Another option for quick installation. It consists of a dowel with a thread and a platform with a coupler attached to it. First, a dowel is installed, a platform with a screed is screwed onto it. Wires are attached to the finished track.
KSP - cable tie with mounting platform for dowel
Material - non-combustible plastic, color - gray, use temperature - from -45°C to +85°C. Can be mounted on concrete, brick and wood surfaces.
Clips (staples) with a nail
An excellent option for attaching the cable to dense surfaces - wood and its derivatives, plaster. On the side of the plastic bracket there is a hole into which the carnation is inserted. The shape of the brackets is round rectangular - for conductors of various shapes.
Fastening the cable with such brackets is quick and not conspicuous. Most often, they also fasten small size wires - television, telephone, for the Internet.
U-shaped staples from a stapler
Even the smallest staples and clips are still quite noticeable. There is a way to make fasteners almost invisible, at least in some cases. If available to wooden surfaces or plaster, wires and telephone cables can be fastened with special brackets. They have long legs and a rounded back. There are special stapler staples designed for mounting cable with plastic stops (middle picture). They do not allow you to transfer the wire, which happens when working with conventional staples, if too much force is set on the trigger.
A good way is high speed - just one click on the stapler lever and the staple is already installed. In an hour you can fix a decent footage. Another positive moment- fasteners are hardly noticeable, during dismantling, very small holes remain in the wood, which are also almost invisible. With stucco and chipboard, OSB is somewhat more difficult - damage can be greater, however, they are still less noticeable than from nails, even the smallest ones.
The disadvantage of attaching cables with a stapler is significant size restrictions. Such staples are not large. Maximum size the width of the bracket is 12.5 mm, and even then not in all types. This is more than enough for mounting telephone "noodles", an Internet cable or other similar conductors, but it is far from always possible to fix NYM or NYM in this way. In addition, these cables have stiffer insulation, which requires more frequent installation staples.
Fasteners for organizing the bundle of conductors
It is not always necessary to fix the wires permanently. In some cases, you just need to arrange the bundles so that they do not get confused. For example, usually a considerable number of wires come to the desktop. There is no need to fix them rigidly - after a while, alterations may be required, and holes remain from the hammered nails, which you can’t disguise on the table. For these purposes, there various fixtures. They are more commonly referred to as wire or cable holders.
For example, the same staples, but of a different structure. On the right in the photo above, you see a cable clip with double-sided adhesive tape attached to the back. For attaching to furniture or plastic panels this is very convenient - the glue can then be washed off, and the surface remains intact. In the center is the second option with the same idea, and on the left is the so-called mounting platform for attaching cable ties. First, these pads are attached to the surface - they also have Velcro on the back. Then the bundle of wires is attached to the holes with a conventional plastic tie. Not so convenient and neat (the tails of the ties will stick out), but it can also be used.
Plastic holders for cables on the table
You can see a few more options for attaching the wiring harness in the photo above. The point is the same, the method is different.
Cable trays - for concealed installation of large bundles
When the device has to lay a large number of wires, and they have to be fixed to ceiling. If we are talking about apartments, then the floors are most often - concrete slab. Drilling a lot of holes in it is hard and long, fastening wires individually or in small groups is not much easier. For such cases, hanging cable trays are used. They are usually made of galvanized wire or perforated metal.
They are available in different sizes, there are several different types fastenings - on studs attached to the ceiling, on “T” or “L”-shaped suspensions.
The installation procedure is as follows: first, the structure is assembled and mounted on the ceiling, then cables are thrown into it. If desired, they can be fixed with ties to the bars, but this is usually not necessary.
In addition, there are metal trays made of perforated and non-perforated metal. The latter are necessary when laying cables inside combustible walls - for example.
The same trays can be used when laying cables in the underground space. But then you can use the perforated version. It also provides excellent protection against rodents and accidental damage.
Homemade cable attachments
Many factory fixtures are relatively inexpensive, but when hundreds of them are required, the sum is considerable. And if the wiring is hidden, it is required, for example, to fix the cable in a strobe, why wall up extra money if you can get by with improvised means. Here's what they're made of homemade mount cable:
These are the main types of cable fasteners that you can do yourself. Surely there are other options - the imagination of craftsmen is inexhaustible, but these are the most common.
Fasteners for concealed gasket
If cables are laid during the repair phase, laying inside walls, floors or ceilings is increasingly being used. Since the result of the work is invisible, little attention is paid to aesthetics. But a lot of attention is paid to reliability and safety - access for rework is very, very complicated. Therefore, the fasteners for the cable when laying inside the wall, ceiling, under the floor are selected reliable. It can be:
For laying large bundles of wires on the ceiling, it is more convenient and faster to use trays, but you can still use the same fasteners. The only bad thing is that you have to drill a lot of holes for installing fasteners in concrete or brick. This is especially inconvenient when working on the ceiling. About how best to optimize the work in this case a little lower.
If the presence of false walls or a finished floor is not expected, recesses are made under the wires - strobes. Wires are laid in them, then they are covered with a solution and after that they are already producing finishing. From an aesthetic standpoint, it's ideal. From the point of view of operation, it is problematic, since it is almost impossible to replace or repair the wiring without breaking the walls. Nevertheless, the wiring is done just like that, just trying to lay high-quality cables, and even with some margin in terms of power or the number of pairs.
According to the safety rules, in combustible walls (wooden, panel and frame), the cable is laid in a non-combustible sheath or in an all-metal tray. If we are talking about a non-combustible shell, then usually it is a corrugated pipe made of a non-combustible plastic compound. In this case, the sheath itself is attached, inside which the cable is located. This does not particularly affect the choice of the type of fastening, but it does affect the selection of fastener sizes - it is simply necessary that the latches can cover the shell.
Laying cables inside combustible walls is difficult: the requirements are very stringent. They can be made in frame or panel houses, but in timber or log cabins it is very difficult. It is necessary to lay all-metal trays in the walls. At the same time, a large amount of wood has to be taken out, which does not improve the thermal performance and it is not possible to make the appearance ideal. Therefore, in wooden houses, they often resort to an open installation method - on top of the walls.
Fasteners for exposed cable routing
For outdoor cabling, about appearance fasteners are subject to more stringent requirements. Since everything is in plain sight, it is necessary to select the most inconspicuous options, or vice versa, the most decorative, for example, retro wiring. This is an extensive topic and it is described in detail. Other options:
There is a choice, but all methods are not ideal, because everyone decides for himself how and with what to fix the cable.
Attaching cables to the ceiling
It becomes necessary to attach cables to the ceiling mainly when installing or and drywall. In the case of drywall, everything is somewhat simpler: there is a suspension system to which you can fasten the wire harnesses with plastic ties. In other cases, everything is somewhat more complicated: you have to drill a large number of holes for fasteners, because they use all the same clips and brackets, and you need to install a dowel under each (if the ceiling is made of concrete slab).
There are several ways to speed up installation:
- Using cable trays (described above).
- After attaching a number of lines to the ceiling, hang small wire harnesses from them with plastic ties.
- Use a long perforated strip of metal for fastening.
VVG-ng - copper flexible cable in flame retardant polyvinyl chloride insulation. It has both round and flat design, which is convenient for some types of installation. To date, the VVG-ng brand cable is considered the most common cable product for wiring, both in residential and industrial premises.
Cable brand VVG-ng according to technical specifications has a different performance of single-core and multi-core cores, and according to GOST, the mass of sections of the conductive core. The VVG-ng cable is designed for an operating alternating voltage of 660V and higher, with a frequency of 50 Hz. The temperature allowed for conductive core+ 70 °С, and the operating range is not limited to the territory Russian Federation. Permissible temperature when installing the VVG-ng cable, not lower than -10 ° С.
The bend during installation of the wire should be 10 diameters for single-core cables, and 7.5 diameters for multi-wire cables. The service life of the cable of this brand is more than 30 years.
Types of installation of cable brand VVG-ng
1. Open way:
Based on the technical characteristics of the cable, its open laying on surfaces and structures made of non-combustible or slow-burning materials such as gypsum, concrete, brick, plastered surface, etc. is allowed. Open laying of the cable along suspended structures, such as a cable, etc., is also not excluded. providing a reliable gasket and not giving the opportunity mechanical impact on the cable as sagging and stretching.
If there is a risk of damage to the cable mechanically additional protection must be installed. Also, additional protection should be used when installing the cable. open way on combustible wooden surfaces and installation should be carried out using protection, such as a cable channel, corrugated hose, metal hose, pipes, etc.
2. Cable laying on cable-supporting structures:
Cable-supporting structures include pipes, ducts, etc. This mounting method is more suitable for industrial premises than for residential. When laying a cable in production, one should take into account the categorization of the premises in which the cable and cable-supporting structures are being installed, as well as environmental factors.
On cable-supporting structures, it is allowed to lay the VVG-ng cable in a bundle. The number of cables in the bundle is determined by the factors listed above and the technical characteristics of the structures, as well as the rules for the installation of electrical installations.
3. Hidden cable laying VVG-ng:
Hidden is the most common way to install cable in residential areas. The cable is laid in grooves, under plaster, in voids, etc. This method is not possible mechanical damage and therefore does not require additional protection. Wall void exceptions wooden houses, in which hidden cable laying in non-combustible materials is allowed, pipes, metal hose, etc. The correctness of the installation of the hidden laying of the VVG-ng cable is determined by the regulatory documents for hidden electrical wiring.
4. Cable laying in the ground:
The VVG-ng cable is not recommended for laying in the ground, since it does not have natural protection against mechanical impact, but it is possible to lay such a cable in the ground with additional protection such as pipes, tunnels, HDPE pipes, etc.
Any of the installation methods must be carried out in accordance with regulatory documents, technical characteristics of electrical equipment, rules for the installation of electrical installations (chapter 2.1 Electrical wiring) with the involvement of qualified personnel with access to this species works.
