Landscaping is an ongoing process. You build something, you improve it. Moreover, furniture is constantly required and tables are most in demand in the country. And put in the garden, and near the house, and also in. How to make a table for a summer residence with your own hands we will tell in this article using the example of finished projects.
Homemade table from boards from pallets
Dismantled pallets served as the material for this table. Naturally, you can use new boards. Only one condition - they must be dry. You can buy dry ones (it costs more) or buy ordinary ones, put them somewhere in ventilated piles and soak for at least 4 months, or better, six months. In general, any furniture, including, is made from dry wood.
We assemble the table for the street - put it in the gazebo, therefore we will not glue the tabletop boards, but fasten them from below, with the help of planks. It's very simple country table and very cheap.
Having dismantled the pallets, we get boards with an individual color and pattern. Having conjured a little, shifting them several dozen times in different manners, we achieve the desired result. It turns out quite a nice table.
We take the side parts of the pallet. We use them for the frame of the table. We grind them first with coarse sandpaper, then finely bring them to the required smoothness (grain 120 and 220).
We take the strips that remained unused, with their help we fasten the countertop. We place them in the place where the joints of the boards are located. We use two self-tapping screws for fastening each board with a joint, one for a solid one.
From the processed sidewalls and two boards (also sanded), we assemble the table frame. We fix its parts with self-tapping screws at the end (two for each joint). The frame can be glued or also “planted” on self-tapping screws. Only their length is large. Under each, we pre-drill holes with a drill, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screws.
We turn the assembled countertop over and grind it. The order is the same - first with sandpaper with a large grain, then with a fine one.
Next up is installing the legs. We select four boards of the same size, check their length, adjust if necessary. Then again grinding. It's easier than sanding already screwed legs. We fasten the sanded boards to the frame. These will be the legs. For each - two self-tapping screws fixed in a diagonal (look at the photo). For greater stability, we install jumpers at the bottom. About 10 cm can be left from the floor to the lintels. We connect everything with self-tapping screws so that the boards do not crack, we pre-drill holes.
After removing the dust, varnish again. In theory, the varnish should lie flat, but depends on the wood, so another sanding / painting cycle may be necessary. As a result, we get such a homemade country table.
If you do not like motley boards and traces of old nails, you can make their boards the same design. This table can be rectangular, maybe square. All dimensions are arbitrary - see the available space.
Country table from the remnants of the boards
This do-it-yourself dacha table is assembled from the remnants of boards different breeds and sizes. Pine boards 25 mm thick and 50 mm wide went to the frame of the tabletop, the remains of 15 * 50 mm were left on the legs. We make the frame according to the dimensions you need. This table will stand on the veranda, and it has a small width. So let's make it not wide - 60 cm, and the length is 140 cm. The height of the legs is 80 cm (everyone in the family is tall).
We immediately cut off two long boards of 140 cm each. To make the width of the table top 60 cm, subtract twice the thickness of the board used - this is 5 cm. Short bars should be 60 cm - 5 cm = 55 cm. Fold the frame, following the right angles, twist with screws. We check whether the bars are folded correctly - we measure the diagonals, they should be the same.
We cut off the boards four boards of 80 cm each, fasten them from the inside to the assembled frame. You can use 4 screws for each leg.
Approximately at the middle of the height of the legs we fasten the crossbars. This is a shelf frame. The shelf can be used for its intended purpose, and it also increases the rigidity of the structure. We fasten strictly at right angles, checking with a large square.
We put the frame on the floor, check whether it staggers or not. If everything is done correctly, it should stand rigidly. Next, take sandpaper or a grinder and grind.
Let's start assembling the countertop. From finishing works there were boards of different types of wood, some painted with wood stain. We alternate boards of different colors.
We fasten the tabletop boards with finishing nails, carefully finishing them with a finisher. On the shelf can be fixed with ordinary nails or self-tapping screws. Then smooth with a grinder. Final stage— painting. Very unlucky with the choice of varnish. Bought too dark, did not like the look. Will have to sand again and paint a different color.
Wooden table with glued top
This design features L-shaped legs. They are assembled from boards of the same thickness. In this case, 20 mm. To keep them well, 5 self-tapping screws are needed. Pre-drill holes with a drill with a diameter of 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the self-tapping screws. Then with a drill larger diameter drill holes for the caps. The diameter can be matched to furniture plugs of a suitable color or made from a wooden rod. Another option is to use wood putty, to which you add wood dust that remains after sanding. After drying and sanding, traces will be difficult to find.
When assembling the legs, make sure that the angle is exactly 90°. As a pattern, you can choose a bar. First, we coat the joint of the two parts of the leg with carpentry glue, then install the screws in the following sequence: first the two extreme ones, then the middle one, and only then the other two. After the glue dries, sand the legs, varnish and dry.
It's time to make the tabletop. It is assembled from boards of the same thickness. Pick up the size you need. You can use snippets different widths. It is only important that everything looks organic, and the sidewalls of the boards are even and docked without gaps.
We coat the sides of the boards selected for the countertop with glue, lay them on flat surface(some kind of table) and tighten with clamps. In this case, they managed one, but preferably at least three. We tighten so that there are no gaps in the resulting shield. We leave for a day. Having removed the clamps, we get an almost finished countertop. It still needs to be trimmed - to align the edges, and then sand it. You can trim with a jigsaw or a regular hand saw. Using a grinder is difficult to get a straight line, but you can try. After grinding, we get a beautiful countertop.
Using the same technique, you can make an oval or round tabletop. It will only be necessary to draw the appropriate line and cut the glued boards along it.
To make the table look more attractive, we will make a frame. We take a thin bar, process it with sandpaper and fasten it around the perimeter of the countertop. You can also use finishing nails. Only the planks are also pre-lubricated with carpentry glue, and then with nails.
After the glue dries, we again process the junction with sandpaper.
Now you can attach the table legs. We assemble a table frame from four boards (there is no photo, but you can do it as in the previous paragraph). We fasten it to the back of the countertop with glue, then install it through the countertop furniture confirmations. Under the confirmations, a preliminary hole is drilled with an extension for the cap. Holes for fasteners are masked in the same way as on the legs.
We attach the legs to the fixed frame. We put them inside the frame. You can attach with ordinary screws. That's it, we made a table for giving with our own hands.
How to make a wooden garden table with benches
For this table, boards of 38 * 89 mm were used (they dissolved them themselves), but you can take standard sizes. The difference in millimeters will not really affect the results. In the photo below you can see what should happen.
To connect the parts, studs 16 cm long with washers and nuts (24 pieces) were used. All other connections are made with nails 80 mm long.
The parts are installed in place, a through hole is drilled with a drill. A stud is installed in it, washers are put on both sides and nuts are tightened. Everything is tightened with a wrench. How convenient is this option? For the winter, you can disassemble and take it to a barn or garage.
Making seats
According to the drawing, we cut the boards of the required size. Everything is necessary in double quantity - for two seats. grinding boards, Special attention pay attention to the ends.
We cut the short segments with which we fasten the three seat boards along the edges at an angle of 45 °. First, we assemble a structure that is attached to the seat from below. We take a board about 160 cm long, at the end we attach two short boards cut at an angle to it. Attach it so that this board is in the middle.
Then we attach the legs to the resulting structure (you can use nails). Then we add more boards cut at an angle and tighten everything with studs and bolts.
We attach the seat boards to the resulting structure. Since this is a table for the street, it is not necessary to knock them down close. Leave a gap between two adjacent at least 5 mm. We nail to the supports (which are cut down), two for each board.
We fix the finished seats with four boards 160 cm long. We fasten each leg with studs (if you walk, you can put two studs by setting them diagonally or one above the other).
Putting together a table
The table is assembled in a different way. Please note that for the countertop, the transverse boards are sawn along the edges at 52 °. We fasten them at such a distance that the legs enter. Each board has 2 nails. You can finish, with small hats, or you can hammer deep, and then mask the holes with putty.
Now we need to assemble the legs-crosses. We take two boards, cross them so that the distance between their ends is 64.5 cm. We circle the intersection with a pencil. At this point, it will be necessary to remove the wood by half the thickness of the board.
We make the same notch on the second board. If you add them together, they are in the same plane. We connect with four nails.
Similarly, we make the second leg for the table. While the table is not collected.
Installing the table
Now you need to fix the legs to the structure on which the benches are installed. We put them on equal distance from the benches, fasten with hairpins.
Now install the table top. We also fasten it with studs. The last step is painting. Here everyone does as he pleases.
Variations on a theme
According to this drawing, you can make benches and a table separately for giving, garden. The design is reliable and easy to implement.
Do-it-yourself table for giving: drawings
A do-it-yourself table may well be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is fairly straightforward and understandable.
For example, find a suitable finished model a table for a kitchen that is excessively small in size does not always work. Buying custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up tools and design your own “work” on your own, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.
In addition, there is often a desire to show their Creative skills in the conditions of a summer residence, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully equip a veranda or gazebo of a suburban area. If you have on hand suitable materials and tools, then you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use a ready-made project, and then get to work.
To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.
Tools for the job
Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required for the manufacture of any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.
You can use the usual, traditional hand tools that carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:
- Planer, which level the wood and drive the parts to the desired size.
- Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
- Saws different sizes and modifications that cut thick boards or make small cuts.
- Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
- Screwdriver Set.
- Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
- Sandpaper for grinding.
Many of the tools can be replaced by more modern and convenient devices:
- An electric jigsaw will do all the work for which the various saws mentioned above were previously used.
Jigsaw rating - A grinder will help to make surfaces even and polish them to a shine, eliminating a very tedious procedure. manual processing sandpaper.
- Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help round sharp corners, drill curly grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need and have some experience, you can use it to decorate the table with a relief pattern.
- will significantly speed up the work, since you will not have to spend several minutes twisting each screw. In addition, during certain operations, it is possible to install one of the cutters or conventional drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).
- The building level will help to make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.
So that the finished furniture does not turn out "skewed", the assembly is controlled by the level An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage
To make a similar country table - everyone can do it Necessary materials
For such a country house, having a table top size of 1680 × 850 mm, it will not take too much a large number of wooden blanks. You need to prepare the following:
- Timber, section - 750 × 100 × 50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
- Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
- Joiner's glue.
- Board size:
- 1680×100×25 mm — 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);
- 850×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (transverse frame details);
- 1580×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (facing boards for the side elements of the frame);
- 950×100×25 mm - 17 pcs. (boards for countertops).
All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If it is planned to “darken” the wood, then it is covered with a stain, and for the appearance of a textured pattern, it is carefully passed from above with a grinder. Fine-grained sandpaper will remove the faded raised parts of the wood pattern, and they will become lighter than the depressions.
Installation of a garden table
When all the details for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to the assembly.
Frame or "box" of the table - The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards measuring 1680 × 100 × 25 mm and two end boards 850 × 100 × 25 mm, laid out on a large table or on the floor. On the end boards, the location of the inner and outer boards is marked. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. Be sure to accurately note the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end, especially if the connection will be made by tie-in.
The connection of elements can be carried out in different ways:
Connection with the choice of "quarter" and using metal corners
- using a steel corner - this is the simplest and most reliable way;
- by the tie-in method - this is more hard way, since it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;
Several types of tongue and groove connection - “groove-thorn”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for beginners with no experience;
- dowel connection is shown in fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be joined.
- All connections, as a rule, are carried out using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
- The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, therefore, after connecting all the elements, it is necessary to carry out control using a building corner and measure and compare the length of the diagonals.
- If the parts are fixed with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.
- When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, cladding boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are fixed to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their fastening also needs to be marked, since along their edges there should be a distance for mounting the legs. Facing boards are also planted on glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be sunk into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.
- The next step is the transverse sheathing of the tabletop with boards 950 × 100 × 25 mm. The place of their fastening must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The worktop protrusion above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.
- Further, each of the boards is fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the "box" of the table, and the extreme boards are also fixed to the end sides. In order for the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the boards to a depth of 2 ÷ 3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the screws will be screwed. To prevent cracking of boards installation work through holes must be drilled.
- After that, legs from a bar with a section of 750 × 100 × 50 mm are fixed to the edges of the longitudinal boards, they must exactly match the width of the tabletop.
The next step is to install the legs. - The legs can be fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the junction. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and nuts are tightened on them from the inside of the frame using a wrench.
- The final stage of manufacturing is the sealing of the self-tapping screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. With this home-made putty, fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue dries, the entire countertop, and especially the places covered with “corks” of glue, must be sanded well.
- After that, the table can be varnished or water-based paint. After waiting for the decorating or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in summerhouse, on the veranda or terrace in the recreation area.
If desired, it will be easy to make a bench or a set for the table.
Small folding table for the kitchen
Such a small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.
- Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally hit, so the table is quite safe for installation in a children's room.
- The presence of a double-sided capacious bedside table will allow you to store various little things and small toys in it.
- The table is equipped with a worktop of sufficient size so that the child, sitting at it, can do homework.
- In addition, on the tabletop there is a place for a laptop or books necessary for studying.
- If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board if a soft cloth is laid on its surface.
Given all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.
Learn how and also check out several models with detailed instructions, in a special article of our portal.
Necessary materials and parts for a folding table
To assemble such a comfortable piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the details that make it up. Scroll necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:
Scheme of the table with the assembly part numbers affixed (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) | part number on the drawing | the name of detail | Quantity, pcs. | Part size, mm | Production material, thickness, mm |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Folding table top. | 1 | 600×600 | |
| 2 | Fixed table top. | 1 | 600×475 | Plywood 25 mm thick |
| 3 | 2 | 530×30 | ||
| 4 | 2 | 120×30 | Plywood 18 mm thick | |
| 5 | The upper end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122×30 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 6 | Groove element for leg movement on a folding tabletop. | 2 | 530×20 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 7 | Groove element for the movement of the legs on the table top. | 2 | 120×20 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 8 | The lower end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122×20 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 9 | Side walls of the table. | 2 | 720×520 | MDF 19 mm |
| 10 | The horizontal details of the pedestal, forming shelves. | 3 | 520×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 11 | Bottom vertical part internal partition pedestals. | 1 | 418×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 12 | The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the pedestal. | 1 | 312×184 | MDF 19 mm |
| 13 | The middle horizontal part of the pedestal. | 1 | 310×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 14 | Cabinet door. | 1 | 477×346 | MDF 19 mm |
| 15 | Cabinet shelf. | 1 | 310×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 16 | The front panel of a drawer of a curbstone. | 1 | 346×209 | MDF 19 mm |
| 17 | The front panel of the drawer (located behind the front). | 1 | 418×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 18 | Drawer side panels. | 2 | 341×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 19 | Back panel of the drawer. | 1 | 272×120 | MDF 19 mm |
| 20 | Bottom panel of the drawer. | 1 | 341×272 | MDF 19 mm |
| Drawer handles and drawer doors. | 2 | Ø 30 mm | Wood | |
| Upper leg piece. | 1 | 80×80×18 | Plywood 18 mm thick | |
| Mobile table leg. | 1 | Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702 | Wood | |
| Furniture hinges for connecting two parts of the tabletop. | 2 | Ø 50 mm | Metal | |
| Furniture hinges for doors. | 2 | The size depends on the shape. | Metal | |
| Bottom end panels covering the gap under the pedestal. | 2 | 20×300×5 | Plywood 5 mm |
The drawings show a drawing of the table, which can be relied upon in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.
The main dimensions of the table (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) 
Separate nodes of the table - a drawer and a guide channel for moving the legs (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) For the manufacture of all the parts listed in the table, modern electric tools who are able to bring workpieces to professional excellence.
Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.
Installation of a folding table-cabinet
It is worth starting the manufacture of the table with the most important and largest part of it - the table top. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and "mobile", that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table may well serve as an ordinary compact pedestal.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | The first step from plywood 25 mm thick, using a jigsaw or circular saw, it is necessary to cut blanks for the countertop, 600 × 600 and 600 × 475 mm in size. |
 | Further, marking is carried out on a larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct shape of a semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or you can make it yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope. |
 | Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or a circular saw with the appropriate compass attachment on it. |
 | Further, a milling cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, if desired, even or rounded. |
 | The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will dock with the second part of the countertop even. Then its edges are processed in the same way. |
 | In the next step, the two processed parts of the tabletop are laid on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Marking is made for the installation of furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the countertop. Furniture hinges may have different shape, so they should be laid in the marked place and circled with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special curly grooves are arranged in plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. In the finished holes, the loops are fixed with self-tapping screws. |
 | After connecting the two parts of the table top with hinges, in the middle of the panels, on their lower side, markings are made to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides must be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed by a milling cutter: 530 × 30 mm in size - 2 pcs., 530 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 120 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 30 mm - 1 pc., 120 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on one edge, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed over the lower rails of the rails, are cut off at the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These sections are necessary so that their corners do not interfere with the movement of the legs along the formed channel. Then, to the lined section of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the countertop, the parts are glued with carpentry glue. First, they are fixed with glue, and then the longest rails, having a size of 530 × 20 mm, are screwed with self-tapping screws, then the part 122 × 20 mm blocks the channel. On top of the long and short fixed rails, the second ones are glued, having the same length, but a greater width - they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the table top and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places for screwing in the screws so that the upper ones do not stumble upon those that fix the lower rails. In the same way, four parts are fixed on the rectangular part of the table top. All elements must be processed to smoothness and perfectly evenly fixed to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving. |
 | The leg is usually made on a lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from the master or purchase it ready-made. In extreme cases, you can make it square by processing the beam desired height to smoothness. Then, on the upper end part of the leg, with the help of a dowel and glue, a guide square plate made of plywood, measuring 80 × 80 × 18 mm, is fixed exactly in the center. |
 | Further, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made. |
 | The finished tabletop is painted or coated with a water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured plywood pattern. After that, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of cabinets. |
 | Cabinet elements do not have complex configurations, therefore, in order to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out with a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be machined to smoothness with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy. |
 | If you plan to paste over the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and provides reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels. |
 | The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make curly grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and fixed. Holes are made in the same way as in the countertop using a router, but in this case, the cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be located at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before drilling, it is necessary to carefully mark out. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet, on which the door will be fixed. Then the door walls are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for self-tapping screws. |
 | In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, stepping back from the edge of the panel 50 mm and finding a comfortable position in height, a point is marked through which a through hole is drilled to secure the handle. |
 | All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. The paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but also protect the material from damage. negative impact specific kitchen humid environment. |
 | Next, you can proceed to the assembly of the nightstand. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can assemble on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on even bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be carried out using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the last option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the caps of the self-tapping screws after assembly will have to be masked with various compositions. The build process goes like this: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels and its location are marked with a pencil using a building corner. -Immediately, the location of fasteners is simultaneously outlined on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then, holes are drilled at the marked points of the bottom and the end sides of the side panels for installing dowels. - After that, before gluing the parts, places for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, in the marked places, shelf-holder brackets are mounted, for which holes are also drilled. - Further, dowels lubricated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - In the same way, non-removable jumper shelves are mounted, simultaneously with the side walls. |
 | Before continuing work, you need to make sure that the glue in the assembled structure has dried out well. To make the cabinet more rigid, it is laid on its side and compressed with clamps for drying. |
 | While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the drawer can also be done using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for mounting fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Further, the dowels are smeared with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom. |
 | Between themselves, the sidewalls are twisted with the help of self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be drowned in wood, and the holes are sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another mounting option could be furniture corners, which are screwed from the inside to the sidewalls with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners. |
 | When assembling a box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners with a building corner and a change in diagonals, otherwise a skew may form. |
 | If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the box, then first, on the sides of the boxes and on the inner walls of the cabinet, the place of their attachment is determined. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, a line is drawn along which the guides will be fixed. |
 | Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the box. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. It is recommended, in addition to self-tapping screws, to fasten the panel to use glue: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are pulled together by four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue dries in the center facade panel a hole is drilled through which the handle is screwed. |
 | Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - the connection of the cabinet and countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then fix it with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But, first, the countertop must be properly positioned. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the legs towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg - by 120 mm. |
 | Having fixed the countertop, they proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table doors onto the self-tapping screws. Then a drawer is inserted, and shelves are installed on the shelf holders. |
 | When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, for its decoration, you can choose other colors that will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room. |
 | In the open state, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its "light" design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the table top makes it safe for children. Therefore, this table option can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms. |
If there is a need to save money, or there is simply a great desire to prove oneself in carpentry, then you should not postpone self-production. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.
For those who are confident in their abilities, another interesting version of the round table is offered, which may well serve both at home and on the site.
Video: round table assembly example
And one more idea of a kitchen table, which, if incorrect, will also be within the power of a skilled owner to implement independently:
Video: lightweight collapsible kitchen table
Such a piece of furniture as a kitchen (or as it is also called a dining) table is the main component kitchen interior. Its shape, size must correspond to the size of the room so that all family members can freely accommodate behind it. It is also important that the kitchen table does not interfere with free passage.
Sliding dining kitchen table-transformer
Currently in stores wide selection kitchen furniture, various shapes and size, made from a variety of materials. There are tables of both Russian and foreign production on the market.
The original round dining table with chairs in the interior of the kitchen
Choosing a table for the kitchen small size, you have to make a choice - do you like it when there is a lot of free space, or is it important for you that the furniture is comfortable, roomy. If you can't decide on suitable table to the kitchen, try to make it yourself. Those who have a certain skill can do it quite well.
Wooden round table with a design on four legs, made by hand
DIY folding table for a small kitchen
Many men who enjoy DIY can save a lot family budget because finished products are not cheap. Accordingly, you independently select the material for the manufacture of a high-quality dining table and the necessary fastening. Having shown design skills, you will assemble an original piece of furniture that is ideal for the kitchen interior.
Folding table in the kitchen, which does not take up extra space
Don't think this is a difficult task. It does not take much time to assemble a dining table - just a few days. A little more difficult to make a countertop. It is better to first consult with friends involved in such cases, or read information on the Internet.
A table with shelves and a reclining tabletop with your own hands
Assembling the table with your own hands, you will create a unique thing, bring to life a long-standing idea. Maybe with your light hand, organize the production of kitchen tables, and it will grow into a profitable business.
Deciding on design and construction
Round wooden table with handmade painting
Square wooden table for the dining area
The design and shape of the dining table can be very diverse. Designers, using fantasy, bring to life the most unusual ideas.
Extendable oval dining table with chrome legs
Consider the design of this piece of furniture.
| Round table | It has smooth lines, as if uniting those who sit at such a table. It has several legs or one large one. It is comfortable to sit behind it, you will not have an association associated with the place of work or study. There is one drawback - it cannot be tightly placed against the wall. |
| Oval | A great option for owners of a large kitchen, which is divided into working and dining area. Perfect Choice for big family, strong enough |
| Square | The embodiment of rigor, but at the same time it is simple and multifunctional. Suitable for small spaces, save space well |
| Rectangular | Widespread variant. Behind it can accommodate many people. It is placed as you like - in the center, against the wall, near the window |
| Triangular | Such a table is quite rare in the kitchen. It is used as an unusual decoration element, for example, as a coffee table. |
Wooden kitchen furniture set: rectangular table, bench and corner
Dining corner table from glass
Owners of a small kitchen prefer to use a book table or a sliding table. Since in the assembled state they save a lot of space. Other forms of tables are few where you can see. If you prefer products of the original form, it is better to make them to order.
Large classic solid wood dining table
Kitchen table, like any other furniture, they are selected according to certain style interior. For example, an ordinary wooden table is suitable for classics. High-tech is characterized by right angles and lines, so they choose tables made of plastic, metal, glass, with an emphasis on white and gray shades. For modern style is used unusual furniture with twisted lines. Eco-style means products made from natural materials.
Original high-tech folding dining table
Designer advice. Whatever table you choose, the main thing is that it matches the interior and complements the overall look.
Necessary materials
Dining table materials may vary. Here are the most used ones:
- chipboard;
- board glued, edged;
- beam.
You can combine them if you wish. You will also need: corners, hinges (for folding models), rollers, confirmations, corner fasteners, eccentric bolts, lining legs, tape for edging, plastic profile for countertops, plugs.
Required Tools
You can not do without a standard set of tools:
- jigsaw;
- drill;
- hacksaw;
- screwdriver;
- drill;
- screwdrivers;
- electric planer;
- grinding machine;
- hexagons;
- building hair dryer (can be replaced with an iron);
- tape measure (ruler), pencil.
In the manufacture of complex models, you can not do without additional tools.
Manufacturing process: step by step instructions
We will make a tabletop from wooden boards
How to make a kitchen table with your own hands? Consider this on the example of an ordinary dining table. First of all, we prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for the job.
Scheme of the future dining table with dimensions
Then we mark up the furniture elements. We start with the tabletop, as this is the largest part of the table. It can be rectangular, round, square or oval in shape. If you are planning to make a table of an unusual shape, mark up according to the sketches.
We grind the boards with a planer, carefully process the edges so that the boards fit as tightly as possible to each other
We connect the boards with glue and dowels, remove excess glue on the surface and grind it
Then we apply a drawing of the side racks to the material - these will be the legs of the future table. Most often in shape they imitate a chess piece. If you want, you can make other shapes as you like. The main thing is that the design is stable.
We fasten the legs and make the base for the tabletop
Then we mark the upper and lower crossbars, which will connect the racks and thereby ensure the reliability of the structure. Remember that the bottom bar is always almost twice as wide as the top bar. Its form is varied. Usually the legs are located from the edge of the table surface at a distance of 15-20 cm.
At the next stage of work, we cut out the elements. We place the material on the table. Cut out the tabletop using a jigsaw. To avoid the appearance of chips, we put plywood under the bottom. Cut out the rest of the pieces in the same way. Do not allow material to sag. Because of this, the tool may break or break off the cut element. At the end of cutting the edges of the parts, we grind with a special machine or go through them with sandpaper.
We fasten the legs to the long crossbars and drill holes in them in order to install the countertop later.
Using tape to trim the edges and plastic profile, we produce trimming. First we put the profile on the edge of the surface. In the place of the angular bend, the profile must be heated with a hairdryer and then rotated. For high-quality fastening, use universal glue.
After the glue in the frame dries, you can proceed to install the countertop on the frame
Then we trim the legs and crossbars using tape to decorate the edge. Before this, we prepare the surface, cleaning it from dirt and grease. With a hot iron, press the tape to the edge and glue it. Cut off the excess with a sharp knife. The resulting irregularities are carefully removed with sandpaper. In the same way, we process the edges of the remaining elements.
If you want to make the table longer and wider, then you need to strengthen it with two additional cross bars
We assemble the table in next order. Using confirmations, we connect the legs with the crossbars, positioning the top of them so as to prevent the countertop from deflecting. We fix the lower one at a height of 20-25 cm from the floor.
Ready assembled table it remains only to treat with varnish or stain or paint, after pre-priming
We lay the countertop on the finished base, fix it on the corners. We attach the legs-pads to the racks. We decorate furniture screws with plugs. Everything, the dinner table is ready!
Ready universal option– tabletop and legs are stained
You can paint the legs White color, and cover the countertop with stain to get an unusual design
It is no secret that furniture is used in the country house that has served its time in the apartment. The table is no exception. However, in country conditions, the furniture that served perfectly at home may not always fulfill its purpose. We are talking about modern tables, made mainly of chipboard. Such tables are not suitable for gazebos, verandas, gardens, and even in a house with high humidity in the off-season, their service life is limited. In such conditions, a wooden table is necessary, but a wooden table is not a cheap pleasure. The solution to the problem is to make a table with your own hands. To do this is quite simple. In addition, this will save a lot, including on delivery.
The simplest table design
The most simple design The table is shown in the photo below. At the same time, such a design is the least expensive both in terms of materials and manufacturing forces.
Fig.1.
Optimal table dimensions
One of the advantages of making a table for giving with your own hands is that the table can be made in any size. Thus, the table is easy to adjust to the dimensions of the gazebo, porch or kitchen.
To make it easier to navigate in size, I will give a dimensional grid, which is most often used in the production of tables. The size chart is based on the size of the countertop.
- 60x90 cm. A table with such dimensions is optimal for 3 people. At such a table it is convenient to have lunch, drink tea, etc. Due to its size, it will fit well into any small space.
- 80x120 cm. 4 - 6 people can comfortably sit at such a table. Usually a table with such dimensions is appropriate to put in big kitchen or on the veranda.
- More than 120 cm. Tables with such dimensions are good for feasts. In the conditions of a summer residence and the limited space of a country house, such a table is mainly installed in a gazebo or under a canopy in the open air.
Naturally, when making a table with your own hands, the size can be made arbitrary, however, in order to be comfortable at the table, you should follow the recommendations given above.
Manufacturing procedure and table drawing
The drawing of the table is shown in the figure below.
Fig.2.
Table legs are made of a wooden bar with a section of 40x40 mm and a length of 70 cm. If you want to decorate the table, then balusters can be used as legs. They are carved, and will make the design of the table more interesting.
The support for the countertop can be made from a board with a section of 25x150 mm, sawing it lengthwise into two halves. For support, you need 2 boards 650 mm long and 2 boards 1050 mm long.
With a countertop, everything is much more interesting. Table top can be made different ways. The easiest option is to purchase a furniture board required sizes. It can be purchased at chain hypermarkets of building materials.
Fig.3.
Following this path, it should be remembered that a furniture board is made by gluing small pieces of boards, and with constant exposure to precipitation, it will quickly fall into disrepair. Therefore, a table with a table top made of furniture board must be varnished or painted to protect it from moisture.
Another option is a plank top. Boards can be used in any size. For example, a section of 25x100 mm. It's simple and cheap option countertops. This option is devoid of the disadvantages that are inherent in the furniture board.
Fig.4.
However, without special equipment, it is unlikely that it will be possible to tightly fit the boards. Therefore, the countertop will have gaps between the boards. It looks good for garden table. But not very practical.
You can get rid of the gap mentioned above by using an unusual, tongue-and-groove board. It will cost a little more, but you get a smooth, even tabletop.
Fig.5.
As a grooved board, boards for the euro floor can be used. They are easier to find in the store. It is only important not to forget to cut them from the wrong side.
Table assembly
Once all the elements of the table are ready, you can start assembling the table. The assembly of the table is carried out in a certain order.
First, assemble the support for the countertop and fix the legs to it. This is the most difficult moment in assembling the table. As described earlier, the countertop support consists of 4 boards. They need to be connected to each other. This can be done in several ways.
The photo below shows how to assemble the support for the tabletop and fix the leg to it with a special tie.
Fig.6.
This method perfect solution except for the fact. That it may not be easy to purchase a special screed.
Another way is to pull the entire structure together with a wooden block.
Fig.7.
Applying this method you need to pay attention to the fact that the bar must be sawn off at an angle of strictly 45 degrees. Otherwise, the table will not be rectangular.
In my opinion the simplest and affordable option assembling the legs and supports for the tabletop is the use of a metal general construction corner with a size of 50x50 mm. You can buy it in any store, and it has the correct geometric shape.
The last step in assembling the table is installing the table top. Depending on the type of countertop, it can be fixed in various ways. furniture board can be attached with corners or with glue. Separate boards with self-tapping screws and glue.
Fig.8.
As you could already understand, making a table for a summer house or a house with your own hands is quite simple. It's important to get creative. Such a table can be decorated with any paintwork. Wooden table handmade will delight you every day and will last for many years.
Wooden tables and decoration ideas
Fig.9.
Fig.10.
Fig.11.
Fig.12.
A poorly designed dining table is best remembered. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free legroom, on which there is not enough space. In order to help you design a table that will only be remembered for its attractive appearance, we will list the basic standards here.
TABLE HEIGHT. Distance from floor to upper surface covers. Usually it is 68–76 cm.
SPACE ABOVE THE LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawstring is vertical legroom. The minimum distance is 60 cm.
KNEE SPACE. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for the knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal one is 36–46 cm.
SPACE ABOVE THE HIPS. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawstring is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed up to the table. Minimum - 15 cm.
ELBOW SPACE. Side space on the table for each seated. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.
HAND DEPTH. Front space on the table for each seated. Less than 30 cm will be small, and more than 45 cm - too much.
CHAIR SPACE. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to push the chair back when getting up from the table. The architects say that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.
Table with king belt
When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table, as drawn here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original. In its simplest form, the table typical design- consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (table top). The legs and the tsarg belt form a strong, but nevertheless open support structure. Structurally, many tables are drawbar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called according to their functional purpose or their location: dining, kitchen, bedside, desk. Scrolling through the book further, you will come across the original designs of various tables, and many of them will return to this "basic" table. Such a table, as a rule, can be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness gives the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the individual dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of the table with the tsarg belt, many of its variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, chiseled, tapered or carved. Even the kings can influence the look of the table.
Design Options
For example, a round table with the same chiselled legs as the base table looks completely different. This excellent look is given to it by a square tsarg belt with round cap. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the style of Queen Anne, the massive sides make it a work table. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and providing more room for the seater's hips.
Country style table
This table is called in different ways - a country-style table, a retro-style table, a bar table - and they represent it differently. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive underframe with turned legs and prongs. Prolegs, especially as strong as in the figure, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, prongs can increase the life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the XVII-XVIII centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. The surviving examples of such tables do have massive legs - although they are badly worn out by many legs. The table shown here is equipped with one middle prong instead of two longitudinal ones, so that it is more convenient to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is uncomplicated. The drawers and prolegs are spiked into the legs with reinforcement with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “in the tip”.
Design Options
The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our "original" table has round legs - turned - and the form of turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the side-leg joints. At a country-style table, you can also change the legs - as in appearance,
and their configuration, as shown in the figure below.
Table with drawer belt and drawer
The name "table with a king belt" refers rather than to style, but to construction. This type of table is the base for kitchen, library, desks, etc. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two adds to the functionality of the table, since the tools that are used when using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small box is enough, in others, the largest possible one is required. There are only a couple of ways to include such a box in the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut a box opening in the drawer. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer side, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Studded joints provide rigidity. A design with two - supra-jaw and under-jaw - bars is preferable, since the top bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.
Design Options
Installing a drawer in round table quite possible. But if the tsar's belt has a square or rectangular shape, then you must be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered-bent or block-glued construction) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer side.
An alternative to a table with a leg at each corner is a table on one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low, flared legs. Here, the drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and a drawer side gives unlimited legroom. However, although it does have a lot of knee and hip room, its "creeping" legs usually get in the way of the feet of the seated person. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the area of support by more than 15 cm. A little more - and you risk tipping the table, leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the center post and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval top and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks tapering downwards, and the racks with the tabletop brackets are connected with double spikes into the eyes. These intermediate assemblies, in turn, are glued onto a square-core lath and form a central support that expands upwards.
The table on a support appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from the simplest utilitarian to multi-rack. Structural advantage multi-column supports in increased resistance to warping. Although the area of support may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the tabletop, a large table with this type of support can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.
Put a wide board on the goats - and you get a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has improved significantly, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. Its elementary form remains a panel or sheet of plywood on a free-standing trestle. And when the goats are no longer free-standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they have to be connected to each other, to the table top, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the goat consists of a fairly wide stand, cut into the leg at the bottom, and at the top into the tabletop bracket. The wider the goats, the better table resists rocking from side to side. A long massive proleg is cut into the racks. The tabletop is fastened with screws to the goats, and the structure becomes one. Although there is enough legroom under the tabletop, do not forget about the leg so that, while sitting at the table, you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude 35-45 cm beyond the goats to provide enough space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common ways of fastening parts collapsible table shown on the next page.
Design Options
Thinking about the shape of the legs and legs of the goat is the easiest way to change the look of this table. Several examples are shown here. The original goats looked like saw goats, and X-shape was very popular in medieval Europe. The Pennsylvania Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still commonly found at picnic tables. Today the most common is H-shape. Shakers (sectarians-shakers), who made many tables on the goats, usually used graceful legs "with a high rise"
The familiar dining table can be extended with an additional cover board. Then the usual table for the family can be increased to receive guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this standard table with a tsargovy belt, cut into two parts and reconnected with the help of special runners. The skids can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each cloth of the table top must be at least 60 cm - the optimal place for one seated person.
Design Options
The design of the extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and side. The shape of the drawer side and the tabletop has practically no effect on general design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then they work with the sliding version as usual. As the extension limits increase, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And do not forget about the importance of small details - for example, fastening the drawer side to the tabletop
Extendable table on one leg
A table on one support is the basic form of a table that has some advantages over a table with a drawstring belt. If you need a folding table, don't forget to consider this shape as well. It is quite possible to make such a table both sliding and folding, and a folding cover that will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the cover is divided in two and its halves are connected by special sliding skids. Thus, these two cover sheets can be moved apart and an additional board can be inserted between them. What to do with the support is the key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the area of support must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is fastened to a respective lid web. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.
Design Options
The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small, say, 30-40 cm, expansion is acceptable, then an extendable table can also be made on a non-dividing support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.
When choosing one of the folding tables one of the most interesting designs is a drawer system. It is simple to manufacture and use. There is nothing out of the ordinary about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawstrings and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawstring belt, its side sections, attached to long tapering runners, are stacked on top of the drawer legs assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the sides. The existing central board separating the side sections is fixed with screws on the sides. The table top is laid on top of the central board and side sections, but is not fixed tightly. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops to prevent the section from being extended too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt a little at first, but when fully unfolded, it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you won't have to search for them in the closets and storerooms when you need to lay out the table before the guests arrive. You simply slide out a section or two - even if the table is already set.
Design Options
The drawer system can be combined with any type of table support provided that the drawer side is available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-leg table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have retractable sections to increase the number seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with non-rectilinear shapes. When folded, the side section retracts under the cover and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look rather odd when folded. For example, a semi-circular side section under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the sides.
Two-leg table with sliding
sections
A table with a sliding folding lid (table top) is relatively rare. Despite the low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the "main" cover, this section is connected to the cover using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (cover). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section leans back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the tsarg should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. It is not difficult to make a sliding mechanism. Each skid has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during periods of high humidity, the ridges can stick in the grooves. The basic version is usually configured as a side table. In the unfolded state, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the base, which creates enough space under the table for those seated. The U-shape of the legs will provide enough legroom for those sitting at the ends of the table.
Design Options
When folded, this table looks like a somewhat odd dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should approach the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look odd if the tabletop has a small overhang. Good uses include a side table (as a base), a side table (shown here), and other tables and tables. special purpose. These tables, when folded, can be placed close to the wall. Folding covers are usually used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. Nevertheless, the sliding mechanism is suitable here as well.
A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically the “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the table top are connected by hinges. It is a common sight and has been present throughout American history. In any furniture style, from the style of the times of William and Mary to the modern one, you will find a table with a folding board. In this table, folding boards are part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered to a vertical position, saving room space. There are many ways to keep the flaps in the raised position. The example shown here uses pull-out holders - you lift the board and pull out the support brackets from under it (much like a drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, with swivel legs on a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to consider for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by extendable or swivel/articulated arms. Make relatively narrow folding boards - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections - see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. By the way, this example was received in the 20th century interesting name, which applies to a relatively long utility table with hinged lids. This name, which can be translated as "suffering", creates in consciousness a picture of a large spread out table, filled with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, people who sat at such a table in the year 1840 or 1880 probably called it a folding table or folding table.
Design Options
While a basic dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, a drop-down table can come in almost any size, proportion, and shape. The table top (tabletop) can have folding boards of a rounded or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.
Table-book - the Russian name for a table with swivel frame supports, which are hinged to the assembly of the tsarga-leg-leg. The support post is connected to the turntable by the upper and lower crossbars. The whole support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel bearing became the forerunner of the swivel leg. It has a lot structural elements, reflecting the state of carpentry art of the 16th century, when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), there were often tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, the tables were generally very narrow and save space. If they turn towards each other, then with the folding boards lowered, the support legs of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support legs will sit side by side, giving the impression of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex chiseled profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern.
Design Options
A significant advantage of the book table is the ability to support very large additional sections. A solid support under the flap makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. Unfolded - has a huge tabletop
This table can rightly be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg makes it stand out from others like it. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of the drawer side, legs and proleg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer side. The result is a lighter appearance. Rather, the size, rather than the knot of the swivel leg, is characteristic of this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four people. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called the "breakfast table" and was used both for breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs for better support for flip boards. The swivel - actually a wooden hinge - makes the swivel leg workable. A sleeker version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.
Design Options
The design of a swivel leg for a table with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a table in the style of Queen Anne as the "basic" table, the swivel leg was used in the tables different styles. The profile of the stem will typically be the style indicator. Chippendale-style swivel-leg tables often have convertibles, but always with a claw-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in chippendale tables. During the federal
Hepplewhite tables were made with legs tapering downwards, as shown here, and Sheraton style tables were made with chiseled, often embossed, legs.
Folded out folding boards transform
rectangular table to square
The advantage of a table with a frame swivel base over a table with a swivel leg is the stability provided by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with extendable legs also has this advantage over a table with swivel legs, but it also has one advantage over a table with frame swivel legs. Like a table with swivel legs, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a holder of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are extended through cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the flip board and still have four legs under the fixed table top. This structure can hold very wide folding boards.
Design Options
Here are two very different tables with retractable legs, each of which has excellent stability due to the additional leg (or legs) in the unfolded state. When the card table is folded and stands against the wall, the extra leg is not conspicuous. By unfolding the game table and extending the extra leg, you will get a support under each corner of the table top. Perfect. Extendable legs also make a great addition to a long table with folding boards. If you make two retractable legs for each board, then the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.
The table-chair owes its birth to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done with hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function - well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down, it's a table. With the lid up - the seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more perfect in design and elegant in appearance. The item shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with spike-in-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs make the chair more stable, and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has a drawer under the seat - more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The tabletop is fastened with a dovetail tie-in.
