You may have had to deal with the problem of mold on the walls, well, or you probably heard about it. The fact is that mold on the walls does not appear overnight, it is a gradual process. It’s just that at first the owners of the premises do not pay attention to the first signs of its appearance, but begin to sound the alarm when spots already appear on the wallpaper and “intricate patterns” appear.
Such manifestations indicate that the mycelium has already sprouted in the wall for several meters and exists for about several months. And that's when the conditions for mold fungus become optimal, for example, in a rainy autumn, when the heating is not yet turned on, spots of brown, pink, Brown color, mucus and even cotton-like growths may appear. Of course, this is not just a nuisance, it is a real disaster. After all, in addition to the terrifying appearance, mold is unsafe for health, and also leads to the destruction of walls, that is, the flaking of any finishing material. How to get rid of the dampness of the walls and thereby overcome the mold? This article will tell about it.
There is an opinion which is probably based on one's own bad experience that the fungus cannot be defeated. For example, some try to get rid of the problem with the help of wall insulation. But this approach not only does not help, but aggravates the situation, since the fungus feels great in the heat-insulating material. Or, spotlights are powerful and bright lamps with which they try to “dry the mold”. Spores of the fungus quickly adapt to new conditions and easily tolerate "drying". Waterproofing laid over the mold, unfortunately, will not help either. Water will find a way around all the tricks and the mold will "bloom" again. Stationary glue will not help, and blue vitriol These methods are long outdated. Modern impregnations, primers and preparations against mold fungi give a more visible effect, but there is no need to rush to use them either, as the result can be temporary.
Why do mold problems arise?
The main reason for failures in the fight against mold fungus is the elimination of the consequences, the visible result, and not the causes of its appearance. And the reason is simple - dampness, which molds love very much. This is what needs to be dealt with first of all with the help of a number of measures. If the humidity in the room is 95% or more, and the temperature is from + 20 ° C, then the likelihood of the appearance and spread of mold is very high.
Such a high level of humidity can be in a residential area in the following cases:
- there are plastic windows that are rarely put on "ventilation" and there is no air conditioning;
- a large accumulation of indoor plants in one place;
- frequent washing and drying clothes indoors;
- cool indoor air with high humidity outside;
- there are roof leaks;
- malfunctions in the water supply system, pipe malfunctions;
- system problems central heating and plumbing networks;
- damage to the wall through which moisture enters from the outside, for example, during rain;
- improper insulation of external walls.
Why does mold appear on the walls?
- Moisture seeps in from the outside through cracks in the wall.
- Wet warm air inside the room comes into contact with cold walls and moisture (condensation) forms on their surface.
- Communication failure not detected in time.
Until you know exactly the cause of the mold, do not purchase any means to combat it, as each case requires a separate solution.
For example, external moisture. If mold appears on the walls, it is necessary not only to remove the mold itself, but also part of the plaster. If the wall is damp inside, it means that moisture comes from the street through cracks and treating the wall inside the room with solutions and compounds will not help. To solve this problem, you can use different ways, the choice of which depends on the financial possibilities and specific situation. One of the most effective ways and at the same time affordable is the use of an additional layer of plaster outside the building. You should be aware that the usual sand-cement plasters have a low vapor permeability, so condensation forms between the coating and the wall. Consequently, the surface of the main structure will be wet all the time. The result of this is the constant freezing and thawing of condensate, and, of course, the formation of mold. It does not take long for the plaster, under such conditions, to simply fall off the wall.
What kind of plaster should be plastered on the walls to avoid mold?
To prevent such problems, use special plasters with additives, called sanitizing or draining. They are based on a cement-lime mixture, since lime, together with cement, provides the mixture with softness and lightness. Additives in the composition are necessary to provide it with the porosity necessary for salt accumulation and constant steam movement.
It is worth mentioning one more factor. In this case, we are not talking about wall insulation, although the fact that after plastering the walls the temperature in the room will rise by a couple of degrees is very pleasant.
Why does condensation form on the wall and how to deal with it?
If there is no moisture inside the walls, the fittings and walled screws are not covered with rust, then the matter is in internal condensate. The methods of struggle here are their own.
The condensate that forms in the wall is related to the "dew point". When there are changes in the temperature outside relative to the temperature inside the room, even if the humidity is normal, condensation appears on the walls. The dew point directly depends on the temperature difference between the air and walls in the apartment and the humidity in the room. illustrative example this process- misted windows. When it is cold outside and the glass is also cold, and in the kitchen, for example, it is humid and warm, condensation immediately forms on the windows, they fog up. The same happens with walls.
Ways to solve the problem
There are two main ways to solve this problem:
How to lower indoor humidity? It is necessary to arrange its output to the outside through the exhaust channels. But, it should be remembered that in order for the air to “stretch out”, it must be “drawn in” somewhere, which means that it is necessary to provide an inflow fresh air. Most often, ventilation in a residential area occurs with the help of a vent or an ajar window. But, it is worth noting that the window is not able to cope with the tasks of ventilation, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to keep it open all the time. Therefore, it is worth thinking about supply ventilation. Of course the best option would be complete solution Problems. That is, you need to insulate the walls from the inside, reduce humidity with the help of ventilation. And when the temperature of the walls rises, the dew point will be inside the wall, which means that condensation will not form and the risk of mold and mold will decrease.
Mold and mildew in the bathroom
Favorite places for mold fungus are the bathroom and the bathroom, as this place high humidity. For example, a leaking toilet bowl or a dripping faucet are already sufficient sources of dampness. That is why plumbing should always be in good condition, and all arising, even small problems, must be immediately eliminated.
The source of moisture in the toilet can be the cold water riser, as its insulation is broken over time. This problem can be identified by the presence of permanent condensate on the pipe. If this happens, then urgent action is needed. You can protect the riser with special steam pipes, which are different diameter or apply special purpose tapes.
Often, the culprit in the trouble in the bathroom is the heated towel rail, which does not dry out the humid air of the bathroom enough. Of course, replacing a heated towel rail is not easy, and not cheap, but the result, believe me, is worth it. During periods when hot water turns off and the level of humidity rises in the bathroom, you need to take care of additional heating of the room.
It is very important to ventilate the bathroom, so it is necessary to have proper ventilation. Ventilation in the bathroom, as well as throughout the room, is designed even before the construction of the house, but it is necessary to check its performance and, if necessary, install a fan that does not require high costs. There are times when there is no draft even with a fan. Most likely, the problem is related to breakdowns or blockage. ventilation shaft and if so, then the root cause must be eliminated.
How to get rid of the effects of the fungus?
When you have taken all measures to eliminate the cause of the appearance of the fungus, you can proceed to the next step - removing mold and drying the wall, after which it will be possible to start repairing. First, all old coatings are manually removed from the walls, and then the wall is thoroughly dried with spotlights, building hair dryer or electric heaters. The best option for such a procedure infrared heaters, the radiation of which penetrates deep into the surface and dries it as efficiently as possible. If the case is “severe”, then it is necessary to remove the layer of plaster, and drill holes in the places where the fungus is most widespread in order to see the depth of the lesion. And do not forget that all the described procedures must be carried out in a respirator so that dust and fungal spores do not enter the body.
Means for fighting fungus and mold
When all the preparation work has been completed, special antifungal preparations can be applied to the wall surface, of course, it is better after consulting a specialist. Today there are many effective means: impregnations and primers penetrating deep into the lesion. But, there are certain rules when choosing these funds. It is necessary to choose not just biocidal preparations, but products specifically for a specific surface: concrete, brick, plaster, wood.
For example, Finnish manufacturers specialize in the production of biocides for wood. One of the effective and popular Finnish remedies is Homeenpoiste, which contains chlorine, known for its antiseptic properties. Or, for example, German-made biocides, which are intended mainly for mineral surfaces. Although there are also universal means- antiseptics and paints that will provide a sustainable result in the fight against mold.
There are also biocidal preparations on the building products market. Russian production which are always popular with consumers. Their quality is at a decent level, and prices are noticeably lower compared to foreign counterparts. Can be found in construction stores and "Biodoctor" - a means of Ukrainian manufacturers. It is worth noting that this product has been tested on 19 types of mold fungi and the result has shown a decent one.
When choosing any means to combat fungus and mold, you need to look at the purpose of this product. Often, the drug, especially imported, is intended only for the prevention of the appearance of fungi, and not for combating them. In general, carefully study the instructions and consult with the seller.
The cost of primers and biocides per liter is different and depends mainly on the manufacturer. In use, such drugs are simple, they are sold in containers of 1-3-5 liters ready for use. The product is applied to the surface with a roller or brush, as described in the instructions. AT advanced cases the agent must be applied 2-4 times, making an interval of several days between procedures so that the previous layer is completely dry.
When working with these drugs, it is necessary to strictly observe a number of rules, namely, use gloves, goggles, reliably protect the face and other parts of the body from getting solutions on them. After the treatment with biocides is done, and the layers have dried, you can do the finishing.
Know that if mold has settled in the house for a long time and you can’t cope with it on your own, then you should resort to the help of specialists. Such issues are dealt with by the sanitary and epidemiological station. By the way, in Western countries there is a rule according to which it is impossible to deal with microbiological contamination on your own if the affected area exceeds 90 cm2.
How to get rid of mold in 4 minutes. Video
The video below shows one of the simplest options for getting rid of mold with a cheap tool.
In any residential building, as well as an apartment, the kitchen is an integral part. In the kitchen, they prepare food, eat, arrange small gatherings with friends. Therefore, this room, like any other, should be cozy and comfortable. One of the key factors for ensuring comfort is the temperature in the room, as well as the absence of drafts.
In turn, this means that the kitchen room needs to be insulated. However, this task becomes more difficult high level humidity, as well as temperature fluctuations. Therefore, insulators such as glass wool, as well as cladding material such as ordinary drywall, are unacceptable for use. How you can insulate the kitchen and create a delightful interior is described below.
Insulation with plastic panels
most practical and in an economical way kitchen insulation is the use of plastic panels, metal profiles, as well as polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. But before starting repair work, it is necessary to check the presence the right materials as well as tools.
These materials and tools include: metallic profile, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam, plastic panels, metal screws, a screwdriver, dowels with screws, profile fasteners, a drill, a clerical knife, a construction meter, a marker or a construction pencil, a primer, a level, glue for facing insulation.
Having the above materials, as well as tools, you can start insulating and facing works. The first stage of such work is to free the room from all things and furniture in order to have access to any point on the wall surface. After that, it is necessary to measure the height and width of the surface that will be insulated. This is necessary in order to know how long profiles are needed, as well as their number. After completing the measurements, it is necessary to cut the profile in accordance with the height of the ceiling.
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How to calculate the amount of material
The number of profiles must be calculated based on the fact that they are attached to the wall in increments of 50 centimeters. Having prepared the material, you need to mark the places for the holes for fastening and mounting the profiles. To do this, we apply a profile on the left side of the surface and outline its position, then repeat this procedure in increments of 50 centimeters. Having marked the mounting points with a drill, holes are made from the bottom up in increments of 30 centimeters on both sides of the profile near each profile. Dowels are hammered into the holes and profile fasteners are fastened.
Having completed such preparatory work, carry out the installation of a number of profiles to the fasteners, the level of the profiles is aligned to building level. After that, the surface between the mounted profiles is treated with a primer, the glue is kneaded and the foam or expanded polystyrene is glued. The whole structure is stitched plastic panels using the same metal screws. Thus, it turns out a smooth, neat and insulated wall in the kitchen.
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01-03-2017
Heat saving has become last years leading idea in the sphere of domestic housing and communal services.
Many have already been convinced of the effectiveness of the external insulation of the walls of their apartments, but this pleasure, due to the high cost, is not available to everyone. And for houses that are architectural monuments, external insulation for obvious reasons, it is generally not acceptable.
Where heat meets cold
Internal wall insulation is not visible from the outside and is much cheaper. However, this method often gives serious side effect- the appearance of mold on the walls, because of which the opinion has already taken root in society that internal insulation is harmful.
Meanwhile, the scientists of Kharkov national university construction and architecture, having thoroughly studied the processes occurring in the winter in the walls residential buildings, argue that well-made insulation and heat in the apartment will retain, and will not allow mold to appear.
- AT Western Europe the use of multilayer thermal insulation technologies was developed after the energy crisis of 1972,” says Professor of the Department of Reinforced Concrete and stone structures KHNUSA, doctor technical sciences Stanislav Fomin.
— Such insulation made it possible to provide up to 25% of heat savings. However, already in 1979, the so-called indoor syndrome was discovered in Europe. This term was called the increasing cases of diseases associated with the stay of people in enclosed spaces. panel houses. The syndrome was accompanied by the appearance of mold fungus on the walls of apartments and exacerbation of pulmonary diseases in their residents. The root cause of this process is the distribution of water vapor throughout the apartment and their condensation in the wall or on its surface.
- from where in ordinary apartment maybe that much steam?
- In fact, the living room "produces" quite a lot of steam: we cook food, wash clothes, wash ourselves, breathe ... When in the apartment good ventilation and thermal insulation of the walls, we do not notice it. Otherwise, problems begin.
In the 1990s, our department was engaged in surveying the houses of Saltovka, Rogan and other housing estates, from where a large number of complaints about freezing walls. But, I must say, such complaints were received not from all end apartments, but only from some. Apparently, the technology was violated in the production of some individual panels; at least their minimum thermal insulation was not provided. Later in Ukraine, new state building codes DBN V.2.6-31:2006 "Thermal insulation budіvel", in the creation of which I also took part. In this document, the requirements for the thermal insulation abilities of the enclosing structures of residential and public premises were significantly tightened, and in modern construction these conditions are taken into account. But in the houses of the Soviet period of construction, many apartments still suffer from freezing of the outer walls. Naturally, residents try to insulate them - they cover them with insulating materials. And after a while they discover that the walls are affected by mold ...
- Why is this happening?
- The root cause of this process is the diffusion of water vapor, their condensation in the wall or on its surface. The elasticity of water vapor inside and outside the apartment is different, in winter it increases, which causes a flow of steam through the wall from inside to the outside.
A few years ago, Yuri Fursov defended his Ph.D. thesis at our department. The topic of this work, of which I was the supervisor, is energy-saving facade structures. It was based on a survey of an apartment in one of multi-storey buildings Pesochina. On the inner surface end wall apartment, moisture condensed, which naturally created an unhealthy microclimate in the room.
After spending necessary measurements outdoor and indoor air temperatures, humidity level in the apartment, etc., we have developed a method for calculating the temperature and humidity conditions in the thickness of the wall. This method allows you to determine exactly where the condensation zone occurs in the wall and eliminate it by selecting the parameters of the insulation plus applying a vapor barrier material. Until recently from paro insulating materials at the disposal of the builders was perhaps roofing material. But with the advent of modern protective films, which are ten times more effective than roofing material, the possibilities for internal insulation become much wider.
- Where should the steam go from the apartment?
- No matter how much we want to save as much heat as possible in our home, we must not forget about its ventilation. Previously, it was provided, as it were, by itself - through the old wooden windows, which were not as airtight as modern metal-plastic ones. Also, for the intake of fresh air, gaps were left under the doors (in old films we see how letters were slipped into them). But then this was abandoned, because there were cases of arson. Yes, and simple wooden doors less and less remains, people are replacing them with modern ones - armored and, again, sealed. ventilation holes in the kitchens and bathrooms is not enough, there is no fresh air supply. In a word, we close ourselves in our housing. Therefore, it is necessary at least from time to time to slightly open the windows for ventilation.
"Breath" of the walls
- What happened as a result of the work that was carried out in Pesochin? Did you manage to save the residents of the apartment from the cold and dampness?
— Expanded clay wall was lined with a 50 mm layer of insulation, a film “vapor barrier”, and then with 12 mm drywall with a small air gap.
Before covering the wall thermal insulation materials, specially designed by us sensors were attached to it, which measured the temperature and humidity level on the wall surface (that is, the possibility of condensation). For five years, we monitored their testimony - no prerequisites for the occurrence of mold were found. At the same time, the design retained heat in the room. Losses in the area of the room were quite insignificant: in total, the thickness of all layers of thermal insulation did not exceed 10 cm.
Later, Kuryazhsky DSK contacted us several times to perform similar work in separate apartments of houses in Pesochin and on Kholodnaya Gora.
- Is it possible to apply the developed method internal thermal insulation for houses built not from expanded clay concrete, but from other materials?
— This calculation algorithm is suitable for determining condensation zones in walls made of any material. But in each case, you need to separately calculate the thickness and location of the insulating materials. Also developed computer program allowing you to quickly analyze various situations and choose the most effective solution for warming.
- Finally, I would like to ask you a question about external wall insulation. Fleeing from the cold, people are now forced to hire specialists to perform these jobs randomly, relying on their word of honor. Few of the townsfolk understand how to properly do external wall insulation, and they also cannot control the quality of work. What would you advise in such cases?
- It is important that the wall after such cladding can continue to "breathe". I will give an example from the practice of the famous thermophysicist K. N. Fokin. In one of his books on building physics, he recalls how he was looking for the reasons for the sudden damage to frescoes in an old Novgorod church. As it turned out, shortly before this, the walls of the temple were plastered from the outside. cement mortar, which is known to be impervious to moisture. He advised taking cement layer and plaster the walls with lime mortar, porous and moisture permeable. Thanks to this, the former microclimate was restored in the temple, which is not detrimental to the frescoes. So cement cannot be used for external insulation. But this is rather advice for those who intend to do this work on their own, without experience. Professionals usually use modern building mixtures specially designed for such work.
Tatiana
Buryakovskaya.
You will need
- For external wall insulation:
- - Styrofoam;
- - primer;
- - glue;
- - putty knife;
- - putty;
- - grid;
- - plaster;
- - parachute (fastening in the form of a flat umbrella);
- - bucket;
- - nails;
- - brush;
- - drill;
- - perforator.
- To insulate the walls from the inside you will need:
- - mineral wool insulation based on fiberglass or expanded polystyrene;
- - drill or perforator;
- - mineral wool;
- - waterproofing film;
- - construction stapler;
- - guides.
Instruction
Buy first required material for work. The amount of insulation depends on the size of a particular kitchen. Insulate the room with outside You can use foam. Choose sheets of polystyrene depending on which brick the house is built from. If the building was built of white or silicate brick or reinforced concrete block, choose sheets with a thickness of at least 5 cm. If the house is built using a two-brick shell, then 2 cm thick material is enough for external insulation. In addition, immediately purchase plaster, glue, mesh and a parachute (fasteners in the form of a flat umbrella) .
Pay attention to the surface of the kitchen walls, if their surface is smooth, walk on them first with a primer. Glue in this case will give better adhesion to the material. FROM uneven surface remove all roughness before you start insulation work.
In a small bucket, dilute the glue with water to a thick cream. Stir the solution thoroughly to eliminate lumps and clots. Take a spatula and apply this mixture to the surface of the sheet. Make sure that the glue does not have time to dry, attach the sheet to the wall and press it. Then repeat the procedure for the rest of the surface. external walls kitchen, fasten the foam corner to corner, not in a checkerboard pattern. After that, take a puncher and drill holes right in the corners, at the joints, then fix nail material and parachute. After two days, the glue will dry completely, and you can start doing other work.
Take the grid and measure right size by the number of walls and foam. Make a cut according to the given dimensions. Use nails to secure the mesh to the foam sheets. After that, take a bucket and dilute the putty with water until smooth. Apply this solution to the grid from bottom to top and from left to right. You can just paint a Christmas tree with a brush.
Then take a spatula and use it to remove excess putty. Do this with strong pressure of the tool, then leave the walls for a day to dry. Then continue to putty on the remaining foam.
Insulate your kitchen with special materials, for example, mineral wool insulation based on fiberglass or expanded polystyrene. To do this, make holes in the wall with a drill or puncher and install the guides, between which carefully lay mineral wool. Then cover all the walls waterproofing film, use a construction stapler to fix it. Carefully read the instructions for using the film, as there is a smooth side and a pile. Make sure that the wall to be insulated is completely covered and that there are no gaps in the insulation. Then paint the walls plastic clapboard and proceed with the installation of the heating system.
In an additional way kitchen insulation is installation plastic windows and floor insulation.
The problem of mold in an apartment or house is not only aesthetic in nature, but can also cause irreparable harm to people's health. Before proceeding with the removal of lesions, it is worth finding out the reasons that caused its rapid development. The fact is that spores of the fungus are present in any room. They begin to show activity only in special conditions:
1. Enhanced level humidity and poor ventilation.
2. Freezing wall panels during the cold season.
3. Violation of the tightness of water and sewer pipes.
4. Unsatisfactory operation of the heating system.
5. Roof damage.
After eliminating the factors that caused the appearance of mold, they begin to eliminate the consequences. The work is carried out in several stages:
1. Cleaning the surface of the fungus.
2. Treatment with a suitable agent.
3. Removal from the premises of items that have been badly damaged.
Anti-mold products
To combat the colony of mold fungus use products household chemicals and products prepared according to folk recipes. The first group includes antiseptic primers different manufacturers. The formulations may be ready-to-use or may need to be diluted. It is necessary to act according to the attached instructions. The primer is applied with a brush on a previously cleaned surface. After it dries, proceed to finishing.
You can use tools that have been tested by more than one generation:
1. Liquid chlorine bleach is great for fungus, but not suitable for porous materials. Free chlorine can discolor or change the saturation of shades, so it should be used with caution.
2. table vinegar poured into a spray bottle and sprayed in the kitchen and bathroom. A strong smell can be masked by adding a few drops of essential oil.
3. Ammonia is diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 1. Cannot be used for porous materials. Work is carried out in a well-ventilated area to avoid poisoning by the vapors of the substance.
4. Baking soda used as a solution (1 tsp per glass of water). It is applied to the affected area and left to act for an hour. Then remove the excess product with a damp cloth, but seek complete removal it does not follow. An alkaline environment is unfavorable for spore development.
There are other means, which allows you to find the most suitable for each individual case.
How to prevent mold
It is important to maintain conditions that will not give the mold a chance to re-attack. It is worth taking measures to warm the home. In case of weak heating operation, they are activated electric heaters. The air conditioner will do a good job of removing excess moisture, but at temperatures below -7 ° C it cannot be used. It is important to take action supply and exhaust ventilation. To remove water vapor generated during cooking and gas combustion, it is reasonable to install such household appliance, how kitchen hood. It is undesirable to often dry washed clothes in the apartment.
