Do-it-yourself wooden construction ladder. DIY wooden step ladder. Materials for making stairs

Modern cottages and private houses require the presence of 2 or more floors, and the topmost of them can be either residential or non-residential premises. In any case, a ladder is required.

Make your own reliable interfloor or attic staircase made of concrete or metal structures is quite heavy, which cannot be said about wood.

Even a novice master can assemble it.

From this article you will learn what types of wooden stairs there are, what are their differences, what material is used to make the spans. In addition, each of you will be able to make a wooden staircase to the second floor yourself - in the article we will provide approximate calculations and photos.

Types and types of structures

There are several species wooden staircase designs:

• Marching stairs. They are easy to manufacture and convenient to use, but require a large area of ​​the room. A flight of stairs can be placed along the wall or mounted in the middle of the room;
• . Usually located in limited space. Because throughput The structure is very small, it is better to move through it one at a time. A spiral staircase (if you build it yourself) will cost much less than other structures, and will last about the same;
• Combined stairs. Can be used in the construction of a private house, if the layout allows. Most often, flight stairs are made with a screw element.

Types of structures wooden stairs are the following:

• Stairs on pain– the steps are attached to huge hanging bolts (balusters);
• stairs on the bowstrings– the flight of stairs is mounted to a beam with special cutouts on inside end-to-end;
• stairs on stringers. Stringer is an inclined beam on top of which steps are attached.

What kind of wood can a staircase be made from?

Material selection for depends on the preferences of the owner of the house or apartment, the characteristics of the tree and the cost of it. Various breeds have their advantages and disadvantages:

1. Maple. A staircase made from this type will be the strongest and most durable. Color – light brown. The disadvantage of a maple staircase is its high price.
2. Larch. The color of the structure is golden yellow or dark yellow with brown veins. Great tolerates the effects of external factors. A larch staircase will be strong and solid.
3. Oak. The peculiarity of oak stairs is that the older they are, the darker the shade.
4. Spruce. The most popular material due to its low cost. Spruce wood has a uniform structure and light shade.
5. Pine. Due to the low density of wood, it is very easy to process. Additional benefit pine is low cost material. The disadvantage of a pine staircase is its short service life. It is best to install a pine staircase in the country house where it will be used seasonally.

Pros and cons of wooden stairs

Wooden stairs have their advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a closer look at them.

Positive aspects:

• Low cost of building materials;
• environmental friendliness of wood;
• ease of processing;
• possibility of DIY installation;
• light weight;
• aesthetic appearance.

Disadvantages of wood:

• Low strength compared to concrete or metal stairs;
• tree - natural material and it tends to deteriorate and change. Therefore, after some time, preventive work may be necessary;
• fire hazard of the material.

Materials for making stairs

For installation of stairs to the second floor You will need:

• Bars for steps;
• beams for risers (leg supports);
• boards;
• beams width 30 - 40 mm;
• beam for stringer – 50*240 mm;
• screws, self-tapping screws;
• wood glue;
• building level, square, tape measure;
• handrails and, but it is better to purchase them at a hardware store.

Staircase calculations

If you decide to make a wooden staircase with your own hands, think over the nuances of the design: determine its dimensions, calculate the number of steps and supports. It is important to initially imagine what function the staircase will perform: connecting the floors or leading to the top of the attic. (Information about self-insulation attics can be read).

Draw diagram It’s also easy to do it yourself. Most often they make straight staircase. It connects the first floor with the second, and reaches a height of several meters. For convenience, the angle of inclination of the structure should be equal to the value in 30-40 degrees.

Pay attention! Wooden houses give significant shrinkage in the first two years after construction, so the angle of inclination may change.

So, for your convenience, we will provide basic calculations elements of the staircase (using the example of a wooden one) standard designs:

• Base length - 3.5-4 m;
• flight of stairs - 2.5 m;
• width of steps – 30 cm;
• height of steps – 15-20 cm.

Necessary calculations

1. 1. We define height of the stairs. Average value from ceiling to floor – 250 cm. To this value you need to add the thickness interfloor covering. Its average 35 cm. We get:
      250+35=285 cm

1. 1. calculate number of steps: divide the height of the stairs by the height of the steps. It is better to take the last value (i.e. the height of the steps) as average - 17 cm. We get:
      285 cm/17 cm =16.76

The value is rounded up. Total we get 17 steps.

1. 1. define step width. It is believed that the permissible tread width (flat facing part of the step) can range from 22-40 cm. In Russian practice, to calculate the width of the step and rise (risers), the formula is used: a + b = 47 cm, Where A- riser height, b- step width. We get:
      47-16.67=30.3 cm

The value is rounded to 30 cm. - this is the width of the step.

1. 1. The width of the flight of stairs must be a multiple of the width of the step. In our case, this value can be equal to 60 cm, 90 cm, 120 cm. etc.
   2. calculate length of stairs. The length of the staircase is equal to the product of the number of steps and their width. We get:
      17*30= 480 cm

• calculate stringer length. We make calculations according to the Pythagorean theorem: the sum of the squares of the legs is equal to the square of the hypotenuse. That is A²+B²=C². In this formula:
  A– height of the stringer,
  IN- length flight of stairs,
  WITH– stringer length. We get:

230400 + 81225 = 311625
The root of this number is 558.23 cm. Can be rounded to 560 cm.

Advice! If it is difficult to make geometric calculations, you can draw a staircase on paper on an appropriate scale and measure the angle and length of the base.

Assembling the stairs

Before you begin assembling the stairs to the second floor, you need to decide place for installing stringers (load-bearing structure flight of stairs). Installation stairs (in our case, a marching structure) includes several stages:

1. 1. Installation of stringers. We fasten the lower part of the stringer with a support beam. From above we cut the stringer into the ceiling beam.

1. grinding stairs, coating with a protective composition.
2. varnishing And painting. To do this, use a roller or brush. Paint over need a ladder in 2-3 layers, each subsequent layer must be applied after some time so that the previous layer has time to dry.

Cost of a finished staircase

Those who decided to buy ready wooden staircase or make it order, should be aware that the cost will depend on the complexity of the design and the type of wood.

For example, the most common design of a flight of stairs with a turn at 90 degrees pine will cost 60-80000 rub.., from birch – 100,000 rub..,made of oak – 150,000 rub..

You can order a wooden staircase in a specialized store or on company websites. Manufacturing On average it takes up stairs 5-10 working days.

It’s up to you to make a wooden staircase yourself or order it from specialists. Self-installation It's not a quick process, but it has its advantages. First of all, this saving cash and visual quality assessment building materials.

This is how to make a wooden staircase with your own hands video.

Detailed and simple diagram for a standard staircase to the second floor.

Are you planning to build a private house on two floors or more? We recommend that you immediately plan what the staircase will be like. And we will help with this - this material describes in detail about the types for cottages, dachas and private houses, and the design requirements. Also, with the help of diagrams and drawings, we will use an example to explain how a staircase is calculated and built. The design is quite simple - it cannot be compared with a roof, so even an owner with only minimal construction skills can make it. We will tell you how to make sure that instead of a wooden ladder you don’t get a stepladder. By studying the drawings and diagrams, you can make a high-quality design.

Species

In private homes, two types have been used for centuries, which we will briefly consider:

• Marching. This option is the simplest to implement, and the design is reliable. If a beginner gets down to business, then a marching wooden staircase will be great solution. The design can also be divided into single-flight and double-flight. Despite the differences between these types, their manufacturing complexity is the same.
• Screw. The work is for professionals, as it requires careful measurements and calculations. One miscalculation can ruin the entire structure, so only a master can do it with his own hands. The main advantage of this design is its compactness, because the design occupies a minimum amount of space in the house. Often a spiral wooden staircase is the center of the interior composition. The only negative is the rather steep climb, which has a negative impact on safety.

Of course, we will dismantle the staircase, although we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the screw options. It’s easier to do the marching version with your own hands, for which there are drawings.
Another disadvantage of a spiral staircase is that it will be inconvenient to carry large objects from one floor to another.

Preparation of materials and work features

Before you think about building it yourself, you need to draw up or take ready-made drawings, as well as prepare tools and materials for the staircase connecting the second floor to the first.

Let's start with the materials for building the structure on the second floor:

• screws;
• thick boards, which will later turn into steps;
• bars - the cross-section must be at least 40 millimeters.

It is impossible to complete the work without a drawing; the image below shows in detail what needs to be measured so that the dimensions of the future structure can ultimately be calculated.

It is also worth considering the following dimensions when planning a structure for the second floor from the first:

• angle of inclination of the stairs;
• width;
• height of the entire structure;
• number of steps.

If you have skills in working with a 3D editor, then you can do detailed diagram. For example, the project will demonstrate whether a ladder can be made into a stepladder. It is also recommended to study the drawings.

Drawings

Knowing the distance between floors, you can calculate the number of steps. For example, the height from floor to floor is 290 centimeters, the steps are chosen to be 20 cm each. After some simple calculations, the result is 14.5 steps. It is necessary to round to 14 or 15. In the first case, the height of each step should be 20.71 cm, and in the second - 19.33 cm.

The example uses integer numbers - the height of the stairs to the second floor is 260 cm, each step is 20 cm long, resulting in 13 of them. As for the size of the flight of stairs, its width should not be less than 70 centimeters. The slope can be anything to the greater side. In the example discussed in this article, the flight of stairs is 1 meter wide.

It is also worth considering the platforms that will be below and above. The dimensions must correspond to the dimensions of the flight of stairs. The ideal shape would be a rectangle or square.
These are the most simple circuits for the manufacture of a wooden staircase to the second floor. The main thing is to choose a comfortable angle of inclination so that you don’t end up with a stepladder.

The most reliable option is a straight ladder. The U-shaped option is suitable for private houses, where large area. A beginner is unlikely to master the L-shaped design.

Choosing an installation method

The design of the future staircase may include:

• Bowstrings. This word refers to beams that support structures on both sides.
• Stringers. The second option is beams that hold the steps of the stairs from below.

Installation

When the steps, platforms and beams are ready, you can proceed to installing the stairs yourself. The example considers the option with stringers. It is necessary to make notes in advance for the location of their installation. On the floor of the first floor, stringers are installed on a support beam. In the place where the stairs go to the second floor, supporting elements are placed in the gaps in the floor beam. In some cases they are used metal supports, serving the same purposes. The stringers are fastened using anchor bolts.

During the installation process, you should always have a building level at hand; you can also determine the position using the body kit, so that you don’t end up with a stepladder. Elements wooden structure must be installed perfectly level. The tread panels must be secured on top of the stringers; this is most conveniently done with self-tapping screws.

Are the steps ready? This means you can begin installing balusters on the floor. At the top and bottom of the structure, support posts are mounted that limit the handrails. They are also decorative and supporting elements.

Now installation:

1. Finished balusters must be covered with handrails (railings), which are mounted on support posts. If the structure is large, then additional support in the middle of the stairs will not hurt.
2. Sometimes 3-4 racks are required. In this case, you should not waste energy on balusters, since even boards will be a more rational solution.
3. After the build is complete wooden surface needs to be sanded thoroughly. You can do this with your own hands or using a power tool.
4. Next comes the preparation before painting: all debris and dust are removed, it must dry completely. If necessary, putty is applied after sanding. Of course, this job requires wood coatings.
5. When preparatory work completed, you can paint the wood elements. A primer is applied, and then 1-2 layers of paint. After drying, it is necessary to coat the structure with varnish. As an alternative, you can use stain.

In the end it turns out comfortable staircase, with which you can comfortably and safely climb to the second floor. If the angle is calculated correctly, then there will be no stepladder.

When building a house with at least 2 floors, you definitely need to think about the stairs in it. And if the house is built with your own hands, it is logical to build the stairs as well.

Various photos of stairs help you make a preliminary choice and clearly understand what type of lift you need. But before you start doing the work, do the math carefully. future design on strength and size, this will save time and money, because incorrect calculations (or lack thereof) will lead to numerous alterations of the original project.

Types of stairs

Exists large number different options flights of stairs. They differ in the material of manufacture (wood, concrete or metal), the type of rise (sloping staircase, spiral staircase, with a turn at a certain degree).

The most common is a wooden staircase. Staircases are also often constructed with a 90-degree turn. It is not uncommon for these two types of lifting devices to be combined into one.

In case of limited space, make a spiral staircase from metal. Screw view lifting allows you to save space, and making it from metal increases the strength of the structure. Concrete is used for stairs in massive buildings (for example, mansions).

What to pay attention to

In a low-rise building, without construction experience, it is better to order modular staircase, a kind of construction set where all the parts are cut out and numbered, and all you have to do is assemble them using the instructions. This is how wooden stairs are usually made.

When building a concrete staircase, in addition to pouring the frame, you will need to external finishing (beautiful stone or wood materials). It turns out to be a double waste of time and money. However, for cottages with 3 or more floors, they are mandatory according to fire safety requirements.

When making a ladder for the first time, you don’t need to swing at it right away. complex design. The simpler the model, the more likely it is that you will be able to successfully build this lifting device on the first try.

Pay attention to the angle of inclination of the stairs: if it is more than 45 degrees, the ladder will be considered an extension, and you can only go down it backwards. Optimal angle the rise is considered to be 37 degrees.

Wood is preferable as a material for construction, since, thanks to its properties, it allows you to correct minor construction flaws that arose due to inaccurate calculations and inexperience of the work performer.

Also, after construction, the building may settle due to loose soil, as a result the staircase can become several centimeters higher or lower than the floor, and it is easier to correct this in a wooden structure.

When constructing a lift with a turn towards, the distance between spans must be at least 100 mm.

Construction stages

Answering the question of how to make a staircase to the second floor with your own hands, there are several stages of construction.

The first stage of any structure, be it a staircase to a house, or interfloor staircase, is the creation of the project. Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the safety of the building and its ease of use.

The structure must withstand average weight ordinary person with a fair amount of reserve. Be sure to use railings!

If they are not there, another fence must be designed to ensure the safety of descent and ascent.

Consider creating a wooden staircase with stringers

After you have designed your building, you need to prepare the materials. In our case, choose boards of suitable thickness and length, prepare balusters with railings and prepare stringers. This will be the second stage of construction.

A 4 cm thick pine board is suitable as a material for stringers. On it, mark the steps according to the pattern and cut them out with a jigsaw.

Pay attention!

We use the resulting product as a sample for the second (and if the width of the staircase is more than a meter, then the third) stringer. Cut to size required quantity steps.

Third stage assembly will begin all the details together. First of all, the stringers are installed in their permanent locations. Then, using self-tapping screws, the steps are attached to the stringers.

Then, using pins, balusters are placed on the steps, and handrails are attached to them. The staircase is ready!

DIY photo of the stairs

Pay attention!

To decorate your home with a beautiful wooden staircase, you don’t have to spend a lot of money on it. If you like to craft, you can make it yourself. Next, we will tell you in detail how to build a wooden staircase at home.

Before building a wooden staircase with your own hands, we determine the type of its construction.

All existing stairs are divided into two main types:

1. Screw- have steps located around an axis;
2. Marching- the design consists of even steps forming a straight march.

A beginner should not undertake the construction of a wooden spiral staircase, as it is quite difficult to make. In addition, they look interesting, but are very inconvenient to use.

It would be more expedient to do marching structure. Depending on the nuances of the device, it is divided into several subtypes:

• Single march- are the simplest designs, since they do not have landing;

• Double march- the structure contains two flights, between which there is a landing or turning steps.

Double-flight staircases, depending on the location of the steps relative to each other, are also divided into several subtypes:

• Straight - both marches are located along a straight line;
• L-shaped - marches are located at right angles;
• U-shaped - the angle between the marches is 180 degrees.

It must be said that there are still multi-flight structures, but in private construction they are used extremely rarely, since they are not necessary. As for the choice of shape, be guided by the size of the room and its features.

In some cases, it is advisable to install an L-shaped structure, placing it along the walls, while in others, in order to save space, it is better to place the marches at an angle of 180 degrees.

Construction technology

So, we have figured out the types of structures, now we are building wooden stairs with our own hands.

Let's break the whole process into five steps:

1. Design;
2. Preparation of materials
3. Assembly and installation of the structure;
4. Finishing.

Design

Before building a wooden staircase to the second floor, so that it is not dangerous.

Listed below are all the basic requirements that must be taken into account when making calculations:

• We make all the steps with the same parameters. Since a person’s muscle memory works when moving along them, steps of different depths or heights will make the stairs extremely dangerous;
• We select the dimensions of the steps taking into account a person’s step. Therefore, the main parameters must be within certain limits:
  1. height - 140-250 mm;
  2. depth - 250-330;
• Avoid long flights - if the structure contains more than 14-15 steps, it is advisable to split it into two flights;

• Don't save space by tilting. A march with an angle of more than 45 degrees is inconvenient to use, and therefore dangerous.

When starting calculations, measure the parameters of the room, namely, the height of the ceiling and the area allocated for the structure. For example, the height is 2.8 meters. This value is the starting point from which we begin the calculation.

First, let’s find out how many steps are needed, for this we’ll take an arbitrary optimal height steps - 18 cm. Now let's divide the height of the structure by the height of the steps - 280/18 = 15.55 pcs.

Since the quantity cannot be fractional, we will adjust the height - 260/16 = 17.5 cm, i.e. we have 16 steps with a height of 17.5 cm. Please note that there will be no last step, instead we have a floor on the second floor.

Let's divide the structure into two flights of 8 steps. In fact, each flight will have 7 steps + landing or floor.

Now let's calculate the depth of the steps using the formula - 2b+c=a, where:

• a is the length of a person’s step, which is in the range of 60-64 cm;
• b - height, in our case 17.5 cm;
• c is the desired depth.

From this formula we find the required depth of 62-35 = 27 cm. This value fully complies with the above requirements.

Knowing the depth of the step, we calculate the length of the flight, i.e. the projection of each flight onto the floor is 27x7 = 189 cm. We will make the width of the flight 1 m, so that it is convenient for one person to go down or up. As for the landing, it must also have a depth of at least 1 m.

If the structure turns out to be too large, i.e. does not fit into the area allocated for it, the main parameters can be adjusted, i.e. increase the height of the steps and reduce their depth, but within acceptable values.

• a - march length;
• b - flight height
• c is the required length of the beams.

Now that we have sorted out the calculations, we need to decide on the design and prepare a drawing, according to which the construction of the wooden staircase will be carried out.

Pay attention! The basis of the march is the beam. It can be flat or with cutouts for steps. The first is called a bowstring, and the second is a stringer.

Next, we’ll look at how to build wooden stairs on two stringers, since they are more durable and, moreover, look more attractive, although they are somewhat more complicated to make. In addition to the steps, the staircase will have risers that hide the space between the steps.

Pay attention! If the width of the march exceeds one meter, the number of beams must be increased. So for a two-meter march you will need at least three stringers.

As for the staircase landing, this is simple design on four supports, which is covered with boards on top. Also, the staircase must have a guardrail. In our case, this will be a handrail mounted on posts (balusters).

Advice! Having decided on the nuances of the design, draw it on paper and indicate the dimensions of all parts.

Preparation of materials

Building a wooden staircase with your own hands requires the following lumber:

• “Sorokovka” 300 mm wide for beams;
• Board 3x30 cm for steps;
• Boards 2x20 cm for risers;
• Beam 100x100 for platform posts;
• Paintwork.

For fencing if you don't have lathe, it is more advisable to purchase ready-made balusters. The price for them starts from 200 rubles.

A standard set of tools will be required:

• Hacksaw or jigsaw;
• Chisel and hammer, it is advisable to have a router;
• Electric drill;
• Tape measure and pencil;
• Screwdriver.

Advice! To install the structure you will need a wooden construction ladder. If you don’t have such a staircase, it’s not difficult to make one. To do this, take two beams or two boards and secure the jumpers between them with nails or screws. As a result, you will learn ladder.

Of course, wooden stairs are more convenient to use construction type"ladder". They are made quite simply - for this you will need two ladders, the ends of which in the area of ​​the upper edge are connected by metal axes.

To fix the stepladder, you can make jumpers from wooden planks with hooks. Their task will be to withstand the spacer load, preventing the stairs from moving apart.

Manufacturing and installation

So, our goal is durable and beautiful wooden stairs - see how to build them below:

Advice! During construction, it is advisable to glue wooden stairs. To do this, you can use regular carpentry glue or, for example, epoxy glue. As a result, the structure will not creak and will be more rigid.

This completes the main part of the work. Now all that remains is to install the fence and finish the stairs.

Fencing installation

Now we will make a staircase railing made of wood - the construction of this structure is carried out as follows:

Finishing

To ensure that you get beautiful and durable wooden stairs, complete the construction high-quality finishing. It is performed as follows:

Pay attention! If you are using a water-based varnish, you will need to sand it after the first layer has hardened, as water will lift the wood fibers. If this is not done, the surface will be rough.

That's all step by step instructions for the construction of wooden stairs.

Conclusion

Now you know how to design and assemble a DIY wooden staircase. The most important thing is to work carefully and carefully, and then making a ladder will not cause you any difficulties, even if you have little experience working with wood. The attached video in this article will provide additional information.

A simple staircase is not difficult to build. However, there are a few things to keep in mind before you take on this job.

The staircase must be thought out and included in the project. Leaving it for later and doing it anyhow is impossible. Very often you can hear the phrase from summer residents: we practically don’t use the attic or second floor. In fact, a couple of times you go up there on a steep staircase, almost a stepladder, and you won’t be able to stand it anymore. So you'll come up with all sorts of excuses.

The staircase should be comfortable for its owner. The proportions of the step (width and height) determine the steepness of the staircase, and the width of the step itself ensures the safe placement of a person’s foot on it. Obviously, all these parameters are quite individual; they are largely determined by the build of the person who will use the stairs. Stairs that are suitable for an adult can be dangerous for a child. In particular, the lack of risers for small children can lead to injury.

The optimal inclination of the correct staircase for a person of average build is from 30 to 45 degrees, taking into account the fact that the width of the step is about 30 cm (at least 25). This is conditional. In my opinion, when deciding on the proportions and size of the steps of a future staircase, it is better to take a ruler and measure these parameters on stairs that are comfortable for you, which you often use.

If you start from the initial data - the exact distance from the floor of the first floor to the floor of the second floor, then taking into account the dimensions of the step that are acceptable to you, you can determine the number of steps on your flight of stairs. Naturally, the number of steps is an integer and the numbers will have to be adjusted.

For example, your height from floor to floor is 290 cm, the desired step height is 20 cm, this gives you 14.5 steps. This means that you will have to make either 14 steps, each 20.71 cm high, or 15 steps, each 19.33 cm high. Alas, it’s inconvenient to count, but the steps should be the same.

To fit such a staircase into the interior, you need to imagine how much space it will take up. Obviously, the projection of the flight of stairs on the house plan will be equal to the width of the step multiplied by the number of steps minus one (the last step represents the floor surface of the second floor). At the same time, in order to save money, you need to compress the width of the steps, which is undesirable; this will make the stairs steeper and more inconvenient (although for many summer residents, saving the internal space of the room is a weighty argument.

The width of a flight of stairs less than 70 cm is strictly not recommended.

In the examples we are considering, we will use a meter.

But you still need a free area below, where to start the climb, and above, where the climb ends? The width of such a landing cannot be less than the width of a flight of stairs, and the minimum reasonable shape of such landings is a square. It turns out that at the beginning and end of the flight of stairs, we will need another 2 m2 of space for our stairs, plus steps...

Maybe you can save on the shape of the stairs? Here is an example with the three most common ones simple forms stairs that are easy to make yourself.

When making this calculation, I proceeded from the initial data accepted above (for example), as well as from the fact that at a height of 260, on the first and second floor you can save no more than “two steps each” due to interior design. When climbing, starting from the third step, a person may hit his head on the ceiling - therefore, this area on the second floor is subtracted from the useful area. There shouldn't be any overlap there anymore.

From the illustration it is clear that the most “profitable” one is a simple straight staircase. For an L-shaped staircase, the occupied area increases due to the appearance of a platform instead of a step; for a U-shaped staircase, such a platform is at least twice as large. Moreover, the intermediate platform captures usable area twice: on the first and second floors.

In practice, the staircase can be of any shape as long as it fits beautifully and effectively into the interior. And taking into account existing layouts, the most common is U-shaped staircase. In addition, in a private country house under the flight of stairs there may well be a closet or toilet. The intermediate platform is convenient to use “as a box” for storing household equipment and tools. There are many options. You saw it yourself - you know.

IN frame house the string of the staircase can serve to strengthen the structure. This is an excellent natural triangular stiffener - a slope. Not using this opportunity is an unacceptable luxury.

A flight of stairs is made (from wood) in two main ways: steps along a bowstring, and steps along a stringer.

It is my firm belief that in both cases you cannot rely on an exact drawing unless you (and I too) are an expert high class in this area (I'm just sharing my practical experience). It is more convenient to make all final marks on the “terrain” and in a real environment. If you do everything according to the drawing, then errors of millimeters, or even whole centimeters, can appear from the most unexpected side.

The string needs to be adjusted so that it fits into place with precise cuts on both sides, without gaps. To do this, I made a template from a thin board, from which I removed the excess millimeter by millimeter until it fit perfectly in the space allotted for it, as I wanted. Then I made preliminary markings on it. I applied another template - steps with a riser, and saw what happened. Sometimes we had to expand the templates.

When the result satisfied me completely, then I am from a quality beautiful board sawed out the main product. A little longer, but guaranteed result. How you secure the string relative to the ceiling will determine how the steps will lie in it: whether they will protrude outward or hide behind the string. And this is the appearance of the stairs.

After the string is installed and temporarily secured with screws (in invisible places), you can completely mark out the steps.

At the second floor level, the bowstring can be firmly attached to load-bearing beam interfloor covering. If possible, then in this place it is useful to link the structure with the rack internal partition“B” (if there is one), with a column so that it goes into a post for attaching future railings. You can attach a post without a post, but it is advisable to link it with a beam. This post will carry a heavy load. No less important is the nodal pillar “C” (or its analogues for other forms of stairs). If you make it in advance as a protruding element of the frame of the box for the intermediate platform, then such a base for the railing will be incomparably stronger. It probably makes sense to make the outer string, where the railing will be located, thicker. It will be easier to “embed” balusters into it.

Finally, the bowstring must be installed firmly, it is better that it is made with various inserts, and can be held without fasteners, on one stop, although I would not risk it without reliable fasteners.

How to mark the steps along the string can be seen from the figure. At this stage, these will be horizontal marking lines corresponding to the plane of future steps. In fact, these lines divide the height of the flight of stairs into equal intervals according to the number of steps. Based on the results of such markings, you can finally clarify the width of the steps (and the dimensions of the risers). Will the steps overhang each other or not?

When the exact dimensions of the steps are determined, their location within the horizontal markings can be noted. That is, apply “vertical” markings to the string. This marking ensures that the projections of the steps on the floor are of equal dimensions throughout the entire flight of stairs. Marks can be placed to indicate the front and rear edges of the steps. How convenient. They can protrude behind the bowstring or hide behind it - everything will depend on how you installed it (while you were playing with the template). Only minor adjustments are possible at this time. To radically change the position of the steps relative to the bowstring, you need to rearrange it. That's why I pay such important attention to working with the template. A drawing will not give you the same real picture as a template.

The steps can be made by hand. Boards with PVA glue, firmly fastened with screws, carefully drilled holes across the board 150x50. The resulting dies are 300x50. Then they are planed and trimmed. Durable, beautiful, and cheap.

It is convenient and secure to fasten the steps with special wide corners. First, attach the corners on 2 screws in the right place on the back side of the steps, then start fastening them (in my final version, the fasteners will not be visible from the outside). Special fastening options can be viewed on the Internet. The method I recommend is the simplest and “strongest” - the ladder does not move, not that it creaks!

You can make railings and balusters yourself, or you can buy them. There is a choice. If you don’t have special equipment, it’s smarter to buy one. First, the railings are adjusted to the posts and marked to fit the balusters so that everything looks level and vertical. There is no need to secure the railings tightly yet. It is more convenient to do this simultaneously with the balusters. You can attach it in different ways, but it is more beautiful when the fasteners are not visible, that is, with notches. Depending on the shape of the balusters, the notches can be round (chisel drills) or square (chisels).

If you have to drill vertical holes on an inclined bowstring, it is useful to make a guide template. We drill in a rectangular block of regular shape vertical hole, then we saw this block at the same angle at which we installed the bowstring. We apply the resulting template to the bowstring and drill it.

In addition to the bowstring, the steps can be attached along the stringer.

With the steps inserted into the “saddle” the staircase turns out to be very beautiful. Additionally, the steps can be tightened with decorative bolts. There is an option to fix the steps on overhead consoles, although in this case there is a risk of cracks in the console due to a large number fasteners Cutting template seats You can think of a lot under the saddle. For creativity, there is room to expand here. The main thing is not to rush into marking the future stringer for the steps; you will have to cut a lot and accurately, so the saying: measure seven times... will be more appropriate here than ever.

It should be borne in mind that the stringer can be significantly weakened by excessive cuts. It can be strengthened from the inside by placing additional bars under the steps along the stringers so that they are not particularly noticeable. You can generally install three stringers instead of two. If you choose a stringer, then think in advance about how the railing will be made. As an option, it is beautiful to attach balusters to protruding steps with a notch (with a decorative screw at the bottom). It will be strong and “airy”.