The development and appearance of such an unusual project is due to the widespread interest of sailing enthusiasts in maritime antiquity. A small and shallow-draft (draft 1.5 m), but quite seaworthy cruising yacht, designed for long-distance voyages of a crew of 8-9 people, some features are given that are characteristic of sailboats of the 18th - early 19th centuries - the heyday of the sailing fleet. At the same time, the project provides for the use of modern materials and hull design, as well as technological methods used today ...
The ship's spar was designed taking into account the main features of shipbuilding since the sailing fleet: the "classic" proportions and principles of armament have been preserved. In the old days, the masts of small vessels were most often made in one piece or were recruited from well-fitted parts - pieces fastened from the outside with vulpings (binding with a strong cable) through 800-1000 mm ...
For some time now, operations with the 48-kilogram Whirlwind have also become difficult for me - carrying it from a place of storage to a boat, hanging it on a transom, removing it from a boat, etc. A dream appeared of a leisurely displacement boat with an economical stationary engine, with a cabin , which would protect from rain and wind. And so the boat presented in the photo and sketch appeared, equipped with a four-stroke carburetor engine "UD-25" with air cooling ...
Hunting and fishing are the favorite pastimes of many men. Sitting with a fishing rod in the early morning in the thickets of reeds is a special romance for a fisherman.
Vehicles for fishing, and just for walking, use different ones - rubber, aluminum, PVC boats and even plywood.
You can buy absolutely any boat, if you have money, but how to make a boat with your own hands? We will tell in our article.
plywood craft
A homemade plywood boat is very light, easy to use and much cheaper than in a store.
The most important preparatory moment in construction are the drawings of the boat. Having accurate calculations, in the future you will not have to spend time and effort on reworking and fitting the product.
Calculations
We offer you one of the payment options. Transferring the drawings to paper, we will get full-size templates of all the necessary parts of the boat. Now you can “cut out” our product, and cut the blanks with an electric jigsaw. Having received all the cut parts, you can start gluing.
First of all, we connect the supporting structural elements, the transom (aft section) and the frames (transverse rib of the hull). Then the bottom and sides are attached to the transom, as in the photo of the boat.
Use epoxy and fiberglass tape to connect all parts. These materials will not only connect all parts of the structure, but also create a waterproof seam.
Assembling the boat
Having fixed the plywood to the side structures, you can proceed to reinforcing the angles between the sides and the bottom. They do this with the help of wooden corners, then proceed to sealing the seams.
To obtain a suture material, epoxy resin and aerosil are mixed in equal proportions. Further, the seams are not just lubricated, but filled with this composition.
Once the whole structure has dried, you can attach the seats. If the boat has a motor, we attach the transom and the bow cover.
The outer part of the boat also needs to be processed, it is necessary to glue all the external seams, also using resin and fiberglass tape, after drying, sand the surface. Then prime and paint.
Troubleshooting in PVC inflatable boat
If you already have an inflatable boat and you actively use it, then for sure there are often moments of leakage due to a puncture or cut in the material of the vehicle. Restoring a PVC boat is not at all difficult, it is easy to do in spartan conditions and even on the water.
Of course, to get a better result, you need to have time and better repair in the workshop. When fixing a leak, the glue dries, ideally, for 3 days, although there is nothing to worry about if you use the boat in a day.
If the boat was repaired on the water, everything must be redone when returning, since a patch glued hastily and without observing the technology will not last long.
If the puncture occurred while fishing or hunting, use only the defect elimination kit included with the boat.
Boat overhaul
To overhaul the boat you need:
- Repair kit (included in the package of the craft);
- Scissors;
- roller;
- Pencil;
- Solvent that promotes degreasing;
- Adhesive brush.
Cut out a round patch from the spare fabric. It should be 4-5 cm larger than the cut.
Note!
Flatten the area to be repaired on a flat surface, remove dirt and degrease with a solvent. Put the patch on the hole and circle with a pencil, smear both surfaces with PVC glue and let dry.
After 15-20 minutes, repeat the procedure and allow time to dry again. After 5 minutes, restoration can begin directly. Feel the surface of the patch with your finger, it should stick slightly.
Then, to activate the adhesive surface, you need to heat the patch itself and the puncture site, a hair dryer is ideal for this, just act quickly so that the glue does not dry out.
Now you can apply the surfaces to each other with the sticky side, and carefully expelling all the air, iron the patch with a roller. Then let it dry for at least one day.
In conclusion of our article, we can say that it is not necessary to spend a lot on buying or repairing a boat. With some effort, you can enjoy what you love.
Note!
DIY boat photo
Note!
The dream of making a boat with your own hands is visited by many anglers, and making it a reality is not so difficult. In our area, boats are made from different woods, alder, willow, spruce, but most often from simple pine boards, and many people like this craft. Yes, the boat is a little heavy, but it is straight-layered. And this tree is resinous, which largely protects the body from decay.
It’s generally not customary for us to paint a boat, it steams under the paint, melts. Previously, they were impregnated with technical oil, but now they mostly use engine oil, that is, with a free composition. Of course, now the stores are full of protective impregnations for wood, including very reliable ones, but you need to buy it. And so he soaked it with working off every year in the spring, and she would walk for twenty years, and the tree would crack from the oil.
We saw boards at the sawmill for thirty, that's it. Then we cut out 25. The bottom may be a little thicker, it needs strength. We plan the boards only on one side, which will go inside the boat, the outer side can not be planed. The length of the hull (and, accordingly, the length of the boards) is chosen largely according to habits, and not according to the required load capacity. The spread of lengths, as a rule, is from 4 to 6 m.
Personally, I have a 3.5m boat, four of us went on it under a small Salyut engine without any problems and swam for 5km to our proven places. This is me to the fact that the boat, of course, should be as safe as possible, the loading should correspond to the actual carrying capacity, but if fishing is planned on small lakes and rivers in two or three (especially one), then it makes no sense to make a large boat, which is only necessary for lakes, where it drives a big wave.
It is wrong to focus on the lengths of inflatable "brothers" that are already familiar to the eye, because bulky sides take most of their internal area. And for pieces of wood, they are minimal - 25-30mm, often thinner boards are chosen to lighten the weight.
In the same desire - to have a lighter boat - they try not to make especially large hulls. In addition, the larger the boat, the greater its inertia, respectively, worse maneuverability, and it is often simply necessary for fishing.
When making your first boat out of boards, keep in mind that the wider the board, the fewer gaps - potential leaks. I have such gaps that you can’t push the knife through, it’s very tightly made, but this hand needs to be stuffed, and I additionally coat all the joints with silicone. But usually in the process of manufacturing, bending the boards, cracks appear that immediately caulk. It can be moss or construction harnesses, a bead or aluminum wire is clogged from above. This is enough to keep the boat from flowing, but if you pull it ashore and lie down for a month, and still not in the shade, but in the sun, it quickly dries up.
About fastening boards. Previously, they fastened either quite simply - with nails, or demonstrated the highest class - with wooden fingers without a single carnation. A compromise option is now in use - self-tapping screws. This is much more reliable than nails, and not as laborious as "no iron at all."
The sides can be made with an inclination, it can also be vertical, the latter option is easier to manufacture, but the navigable qualities of such boats are slightly worse. In any case, you will have to bend the side boards in the longitudinal plane. For this you need a device. Someone uses special rope blocks, as they did in the old days. Someone uses suitable clamps. There are many options here, and they only affect the convenience of work. The main thing is how to bend! Slowly, gradually increasing the load so that the board does not burst. If dry, then moisten with water. It is unlikely that it will be possible to bend well faster than in a day, there is no need to rush in this matter.
Increased reliability of the boat is given by stiffeners, which are usually made of durable wood, usually oak, and a pointed nose is also made from it, where boards of the bottom and sides are inserted, and not on nails, but in specially cut grooves with a strictly adjusted angle of inclination.
In terms of shape, I prefer a boat with a wide front. The maximum width in the bow is about 80 cm, then everything is narrower, and in the stern area it is only 30-40 centimeters, if only it would be comfortable to sit alone. And only when it is planned to install the motor, do we make the stern wider under 50-60cm. Board height 38-40cm.
This shape of the boat allows you to confidently control it from the stern with just one oar - our local traditions, which we do not change from year to year. And largely due to the fact that when passing shallow places you have to constantly push off the bottom with an oar. Accordingly, it is quite long (2-2.5m) and strong, usually made of ash.
Almost everyone walks along the river with one oar, even women go to milk cows. From childhood we teach Maltsov to steer with one oar. And we have no idea about two oars, it is believed that all this is pampering. Although, of course, to each his own. On the same large lakes, you can’t paddle with a decent wave with one oar. So all sorts of boats are important, all sorts of boats are needed.
Active fishing from the water for a predator or peaceful fish, hunting for waterfowl, family holidays on a pond - all this is united by one indispensable element - a boat. Variants of ships of various displacements made of rubber, polyvinyl chloride, plastic and metal, modern trading enterprises can offer a great variety. And many worthy products often have one significant drawback - high cost. Coupled with the need to purchase a motor for a boat, the total price of pleasure for many becomes inaccessible. At the same time, there is a completely budget option for solving the problem - to make a ship with your own hands. In order to better understand the intricacies of making a wooden boat, carefully study our instructions.
For a long time, such wood material as plywood has been widely used in construction and furniture production. High strength with a small thickness, durability and even resistance to moisture during additional processing - all this prompted the craftsmen to use it for the independent manufacture of fishing boats equipped with a motor.
Drawings of a future wooden boat
In the event that the dimensional characteristics of the vessel offered by us do not satisfy you, it will not be difficult to find a program that calculates the parameters of all parts of the boat, depending on the desired dimensions and displacement. The possibilities of 3D-modeling will allow you to consider the product from all angles.
The proposed boat has the following dimensions of the main parts:
nose and stern
reinforcing ribs depending on location:
(Click on the picture to enlarge)
When starting to independently manufacture a watercraft, you should study a number of additional literature and familiarize yourself with the name and purpose of the main parts of the vessel. Article size limits prevent us from providing users with this information.
Boat assembly
The material for the manufacture of the boat, as noted above, is plywood. In this case, it is desirable to purchase moisture-resistant sheets. In this case, your product is guaranteed to be used for many years without the need for frequent repairs. The bottom is best made from 12 mm material, and 10 or even 8 mm can be purchased on the sides.
From the purchased sheets, having previously made patterns, for example, on wallpaper sheets, you should cut out the details of the boat using an electric jigsaw. Unfortunately, the industry does not produce sheets 5 meters long, so it becomes necessary to glue the bottom and sides of two parts. For this, it is best to use EDP glue, since it has maximum moisture resistance, unlike water-soluble PVA. You can glue it using strips of plywood with a thickness of at least 10 centimeters on one or both sides.
In addition, it is necessary to glue internal stiffeners from strong birch bars located at the required angles according to the drawings shown above. Some options involve the installation of solid saddle cans glued together from two side pieces and a flat bench. This greatly reduces the internal space of the vessel, but increases its buoyancy even when upside down, since air is retained in hermetically sealed cans.
Many novice boat builders are faced with the problem of connecting plywood parts located at different angles. In this case, there is a method that is called "sew and glue." It involves the connection of parts with steel wire or a strong thread, for example, kapron through holes pre-drilled in the fastening edges of the parts, with a diameter of 2-3 millimeters, spaced from the edge by no more than 5 millimeters. After "stitching" the body, all joints are additionally glued with fiberglass impregnated with EAF glue or epoxy resin. It is better to glue both inside the boat and outside. This will give you the strongest possible connection.
It is better to start assembling the hull from the side parts - sides, bow and stern. Drill holes according to the above parameters with equal pitch and tighten the body with thread or wire. Check the relative position of the elements, fasten the sides to the stiffeners with self-tapping screws with glue, and glue all the seams with fiberglass, carefully expelling air bubbles from under it. Leave the case until the glue is completely dry.
Using the same technology, attach the bottom to the side parts of the case.
Glue the so-called mooring bar along the sides along their upper edge, designed to protect the hull of your wooden boat from damage when mooring to berths or sides of other ships.
An obligatory element of the boat, which ensures safe entry into a turn, especially when driving with a motor, as well as the lateral stability of the vessel, is the keel. It is attached to the bottom and should be located along its midline.
The central keel is better to make typesetting, glued together from several thin rails.
Additional stickers in the bow will help to give the wooden boat greater strength.
and aft parts.
In addition, it is better to further strengthen the transom - the part of the stern on which the outboard motor is attached.
After all the main and additional parts of the boat are fixed in their places, you can start testing the product. Move the boat to the nearest body of water, lower it into the water and check for leaks, as well as the carrying capacity. The noted deficiencies are marked and eliminated.
We give the final appearance to the product by painting with oil paints in several layers.
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Before you start building a wooden boat, you need to prepare the main part of such a structure - the sides. To do this, you need to take the most even, long, wide enough boards that are made of spruce or pine.
Look at the photos of homemade boats and you will see that there are no boards on its sides that have knots - this is very important. The boards for this part of the boat should be in a dry place under slight pressure for at least one year.
Choice of boards for work
Before you start production, you need to make sure once again that the boards are absolutely suitable for the job. Next, for each board, you need to measure the desired length and carefully cut them off at an angle of 45 degrees. These boards will go to the bow of the boat.
After that, it is necessary to plan them and check that the boards connected to each other have no gaps. Then treat the ends with an antiseptic.
The next step is to prepare the bow of the boat, and a triangular bar serves them. It should be one and a half times longer than the width of the sides. The beam is also planed and covered with a layer of antiseptic.
Further instructions for making a boat with your own hands is to choose a suitable board for the stern of the boat. Do not neglect the stock, because it is better to cut off the excess later than to look for and start all over again.
Boat assembly
When the elements of the wooden boat are assembled, you need to start assembling the product. You should start with the bow. Both sides and a triangular bar must be connected to each other using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to immediately cut off the protrusions from above and below so that they do not interfere in the future.
The next step is very important and responsible, as it is necessary to give the future boat a shape. It is necessary to determine the width of the boat and put a spacer in the middle. Choose a spacer board the size of the height of the boat, so your sides will not burst.
When the strut is properly installed, you can begin to shape the boat, call a few people for help or stock up on ropes to hold the structure.
Use the drawings and adjust the dimensions of the stern for the manufacture of the boat in such a way that there are no gaps and cracks when connecting the back wall and sides.
When the backdrop is installed, cut off the excess part from the bottom, and on top you can make an element in the form of a triangle. Next, we deal with the struts that will constantly maintain the shape of the boat, as well as the seats that are installed on top of the struts. You can determine the number, as well as the location of these elements yourself, so it can be one, two or more places.
We align everything on the lower part in one plane and treat the entire surface with a protective layer. When the glue dries, start making the bottom of the boat.
The best option for the bottom will be a galvanized sheet of metal. Try to find one that matches the size of the boat.
How to make the bottom of the boat with your own hands
Put the future boat on a sheet of metal and circle its borders with a marker, do not forget to grab a margin of a few centimeters just in case, you can always trim the excess.
The next step is to cover the connection of the boat with its bottom with a special silicone sealant along the entire length in one line. On top of the sealant, until it dries, a cord is laid in several rows - all this is necessary so that the bottom of the boat is airtight and does not let water in.
When this process is completed, we proceed to the connection of the bottom with the frame. Carefully lay the bottom of the boat over the bottom of the boat. Use nails or screws to connect.
Start connecting from the middle and move to the edges of the boat. Do the work as slowly and carefully as possible, as this part is very important.
We cut off excess metal that sticks out more than 5 mm from the edge of the boat, and bend the rest with a hammer. It is also important to protect the nose of the boat from external factors with the help of the same metal. Cut out a rectangle of tin according to the size of the boat.
Everywhere where wood and metal are connected, it is necessary to walk with sealant and lace. By this time, before you start "wrapping" the nose with metal, you need to treat the entire boat with an antiseptic.
Be sure to make a mount on the bow for the chain. This will help if someone wants to steal a brand new boat, as on the pond it will attract special attention due to its novelty.
Before you build a boat, think through and review all the ideas of what you can make a boat out of. Perhaps you will choose for yourself a special material with which it will be more convenient for you to work, or maybe you need special protection or massiveness.
Do not forget to cover the bottom with a special paint on the reverse side, since galvanized metal collapses over time upon contact with water. And the wooden parts of the boat must be covered with several layers of special impregnation and, as a result, the boat should be left to dry in the shade.
For convenience, a wooden flooring can be laid out inside the boat at its bottom. So the bottom will not rattle when you move along it.
This will complete the boat. Read more articles on how to make the best homemade boats with a description to find out some other nuances that may be useful to you in future buildings.
DIY boat photo
