How to make a marching staircase with your own hands. How to make a wooden staircase with your own hands. Structures of mid-flight stairs

Detailed and simple diagram for a standard staircase to the second floor.

Are you planning to build a private house on two floors or more? We recommend that you immediately plan what the staircase will be like. And we will help with this - this material describes in detail about the types for cottages, summer cottages and private houses, design requirements. Also, with the help of diagrams and drawings, we will use an example to show how a staircase is calculated and built. The design is quite simple - it cannot be compared with a roof, so even the owner, who has only minimal building skills, can make it. We will tell you how to make it so that instead of a wooden ladder you don’t get a stepladder. Having studied the drawings and diagrams, you can make a high-quality design.

Kinds

Two types have been used in private homes for centuries, which we will briefly consider:

  • marching. This option is the simplest in execution, while the design is reliable. If a beginner takes up the matter, then a marching wooden staircase will be an excellent solution. Also, the design can be divided into one-march and two-march. Despite the differences between these types, their manufacturing complexity is the same.
  • screw. Work for professionals, as it requires careful measurements and calculations. One miscalculation can ruin the entire structure, so only a master can do it with his own hands. The main advantage of this design is its compactness, because the design occupies a minimum amount of space in the house. Often a spiral wooden staircase is the center of the interior composition. The only negative is a rather steep climb, which adversely affects safety.

Of course, we will disassemble the mid-flight staircase, although we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the screw options. With your own hands, it is easier to perform a marching version, to which there are drawings.
Another disadvantage of a spiral staircase is that it will be inconvenient to carry large items from one floor to another.

Preparation of materials and features of work

Before you think about building with your own hands, you need to draw up or take ready-made drawings, as well as prepare tools and materials for the stairs connecting the second floor to the first.

Let's start with materials for the construction of the structure on the second floor:

  • screws;
  • thick boards, which will later turn into steps;
  • bars - the cross section must be at least 40 millimeters.

It is impossible to complete the work without a drawing, the image below shows in detail what needs to be measured, so that in the end it is possible to calculate the dimensions of the future structure.

It is also worth considering the following dimensions when planning a structure for the second floor from the first:

  • the angle of the stairs;
  • width;
  • the height of the entire structure;
  • number of steps.

If you have skills in working with a 3D editor, then you can make a detailed diagram. For example, the project will demonstrate whether a stepladder can be made from a ladder. It is also recommended to study the drawings.

Blueprints


The simplest drawing of a marching staircase to the second floor, which the owner can make with his own hands. The drawing shows a rather large structure, but sometimes such a staircase leads to the second floor.

Knowing the distance between floors, you can calculate the number of steps. For example, the height from floor to floor is 290 centimeters, the steps are 20 cm each. After simple calculations, 14.5 steps are obtained. It is necessary to round up to 14 or 15. In the first case, the height of each step should be 20.71 cm, and in the second - 19.33 cm.

The example uses integers - the height of the stairs to the second floor is 260 cm, each step goes 20 cm, as a result there are 13 of them. As for the dimensions of the flight of stairs, its width should not be less than 70 centimeters. In the big direction, the slope can be anything. In the example discussed in this article, the flight of stairs is 1 meter wide.

It is also worth considering the platforms that will be below and above. The dimensions must correspond to the dimensions of the flight of stairs. The ideal shape would be a rectangle or square.
These are the simplest schemes for making a wooden staircase to the second floor. The main thing is to choose a convenient angle of inclination, so that in the end there is no stepladder.

The most reliable option is a straight ladder. The U-shaped option is suitable for private houses, where there is a large area. A beginner is unlikely to master the L-shaped design.

Selecting an installation method

In the design of the future stairs may be present:

  • Bowstrings. This word refers to beams that support structures on both sides.
  • Kosoura. The second option is the beams that hold the steps of the stairs from below.

Mounting

When the steps, platforms and beams are ready, you can proceed to the installation of the stairs with your own hands. In the example, a variant with stringers is considered. In advance, you need to make notes for the place of their installation. On the floor of the first floor, the stringers are installed on the support beam. In the place where the stairs go to the second floor, the supporting elements are placed in the gaps in the floor beam. In some cases, metal supports are used that serve the same purpose. The fastening of the stringers is carried out using anchor bolts.

During the installation process, you should always have a building level at hand, you can also determine the position by the body kit so that at the end you don’t get a ladder. Elements of a wooden structure must be installed perfectly level. The tread panels must be fixed on top of the stringers, it is most convenient to do this with self-tapping screws.

Steps ready? So you can start installing balusters on the floor. At the top and bottom of the structure, support posts are mounted that limit the handrails. They are also decorative and supporting elements.

Now installation:

  1. Finished balusters must be covered with handrails (handrails), which are mounted on support posts. If the structure is large, then additional support will not interfere in the middle of the stairs.
  2. Sometimes 3-4 racks are required. In this case, you should not waste your energy on balusters, since even boards will be a more rational solution.
  3. After completion of the assembly, the wooden surface must be carefully sanded. You can do this with your own hands or with a power tool.
  4. Next comes the preparation before painting: all debris and dust are removed, it must dry completely. If necessary, puttying is performed after grinding. Of course, wood coatings are needed for this work.
  5. When the preparatory work is completed, you can paint the wooden elements. A primer is applied, and then 1-2 coats of paint. After drying, it is necessary to cover the structure with varnish. Alternatively, you can take a stain.

The result is a comfortable staircase with which you can comfortably and safely climb to the second floor. If the angle is calculated correctly, then there will be no ladder.

Wooden stairs are gaining more and more popularity every year. This is due, first of all, to the fact that people more often began to purchase country houses with several floors. When arranging the room, the correct choice of steps plays an important role. Stairs made of natural wood have many positive aspects. This type of product can be both bought and made independently. To do this, you need to collect a certain set of tools, buy good wood and be patient.

How to calculate correctly?

Before starting work, special attention should be paid to the choice of the main material. Wooden stairs to the second floor can be made from different types of trees, but pine is best suited. This type of raw material is characterized by softness and low price. With such material it will be easy to work even for a beginner.

A staircase made of solid pine will not darken if, before starting work, the raw materials are treated with a high-quality special agent.

In order for the design to be reliable and last for many years, it is recommended to buy wood of more expensive varieties. These include beech, oak, larch. They have a denser structure, but have a high price.

The main types of stairs:

  • screw;
  • marching.

For the manufacture of the first option, in addition to wooden materials, metal ones are also used. Such ladders are intended only for the movement of a person. It is almost impossible to lift furniture or other dimensional elements along them. Often, screw structures are chosen in rooms of a small area. Popular types of wooden stairs are shown in the photo below:





Marching are the most practical and easy to manufacture. Such structures are divided into many types. They can be either single-march or consist of several parts. In the second option, a platform is often used that separates these elements and is used to create a turn.

Before you start work, you need to calculate the wooden stairs:

  1. The product should not have an inclination angle greater than 45 0 .
  2. Tread depth - not less than 25 cm.
  3. The dimensions of the riser should be in the range of 16-20 cm.
  4. Opening width from 1000 mm.
  5. The height of the railing is from 1 meter. For children - 60 cm.
  6. The opening is vertical - at least 2 meters.

In order to determine the number of steps, it is necessary to divide the height of the future staircase by the height of the riser. The resulting number should be rounded up to an integer. This indicator will be the number of steps.

An accurate calculation can be made using a special computer program. Using simple rules and recommendations, you can make a comfortable, and most importantly, reliable staircase.

Product design

Before you make a wooden staircase, you need to know what it consists of. This will help you quickly create the option that will best fit into the chosen interior of the room.

For ease of movement, the number of steps should be odd.

The design of the flight of stairs includes the following parts:

  1. Bowstring. This element acts as a carrier beam and is an additional fastener for the steps.
  2. Kosoura. They are cuts that are created in the main parallel beams. They are needed to accommodate the treads.
  3. Riser. They are designed to cover the visible part between the steps. Riser mounted vertically. These elements are optional.
  4. Tread. This type of element is the upper part of the steps.
  5. Balusters. With this part, maximum rigidity and strength of the product is achieved. Elements are attached to the steps and railings.
  6. Columns. They are also often referred to as support rods. This is the main part of screw structures.
  7. Handrails. Mounted on top of balusters.
  8. Radius risers. They are presented in the form of a rounded shape. Installed at the bottom of the stairs.
  9. Decorative pieces. They are mounted on poles. They are often referred to as stubs.
  10. Running step. It is mounted at the very beginning of the flight of stairs. Its distinctive feature is its unusual shape.

The complexity of the structure depends not only on the type of structure, but also on the method of manufacture. A wooden staircase to the second floor with your own hands for a private house can be made both on bowstrings and on stringers.

Bowstrings are mounted from the end of the tread. For this, corners, grooves and construction glue are used. They can also be fixed using bars. All elements are fixed with bolts or self-tapping screws.

As for the kosour, they are placed under the steps themselves. For their installation, special fasteners are used.

For the manufacture of bowstrings and stringers, it is best to use oak or ash. Also masters prefer larch. Such tree species will make the structure more reliable.

Markup and creation of elements

The manufacture of wooden stairs should be started only after a full calculation has been made. You also need to finally decide on the place where the product will be installed.

Sequencing:


If the steps will be laid on stringers, then their length should be 10-20 mm longer, and the width should be 20-30 mm.

Particular attention should be paid to wooden railings for stairs. Sanding them should be in several stages, reducing the graininess of the paper. Thus, the handrails will turn out perfectly smooth.

Also, do not forget about the connector to the second floor. If it is not there, then the dismantling method will require removing part of the floor.

Installation of a wooden ladder

Mounting the structure is the main part of the work. A lot depends on the correct assembly of the elements.

The installation of a wooden staircase must begin with the fastening of the support beam. It is fixed to the floor where the stairs will begin. Then a kosour is attached to the beam. This can be done in two ways: washed down in a beam or washed down in a stringer.

After that, the product is fixed on the support beam, to the side wall and ceiling opening. As soon as the first kosour is well fixed, you can proceed to the second. The second element is set according to the length of the prepared steps.

The top step should be on the same level with the floor of the second floor.

Depending on the width of the stairs and the expected loads, you can use not two stringers, but three or more. The use of several elements gives the structure rigidity.

In order for the steps not to be tilted in different directions, the stringers should be installed as evenly as possible.

After the main parts are attached, you can proceed with the installation of the risers, and then to the steps. The treads are fastened with wood screws to the stringers and risers. It is important to ensure that the fasteners are well deepened into the wood.

The installation of balusters and pillars must begin from the markup where they will be located. The hole for the dowel should be located in the middle of the baluster. Fasteners are fixed into the connector with glue. They should protrude 10-15 cm up. Under the size of the dowel, a hole is drilled in the baluster.

Then the columns are attached. On a single-march structure, they are mounted at the beginning and end. At first, only the upper elements should be attached, the lower ones will be installed at the very last moment.

After that, you need to fix one or two balusters. This is necessary in order to determine the angle of the surface. To do this, you need to attach a handrail. Cut off the unnecessary part from all elements.

Then the base and holes of the prepared balusters are carefully treated with glue and connected to the dowels.

The railings are cut at the required angle. Holes are made on the sections to connect them with the posts, using a dowel. The slats are attached to the balusters after the glue has completely dried. They are also fixed with adhesive and self-tapping screws. For reliable fastening we use.

The bottom column is installed last. It is also fixed to the railing with a dowel. After the glue has completely dried, the handmade wooden staircase is considered ready.

To prevent the material from infecting fungus and insects, the wood must be painted with an antiseptic. The stairs should be varnished or other paints and varnishes after the primer dries well. This will require you to wait at least 24 hours. If this is not done, then the paint will not lay down evenly and will begin to peel off over time.

It is not difficult to make a staircase out of wood. By following the sequence of actions and recommendations, you can make a beautiful, strong and durable structure that will decorate the room for many years.

Without following the rules and without making safety calculations, a staircase with your own hands will be built at least unsuccessfully, it will require global alterations and costly improvements. To exclude unsuccessful attempts, it is better to initially do everything, focusing on building codes.

The simplest solution will be modular - they only need to be assembled from complete parts, strictly following the manufacturer's instructions. Ready-made kits are supplied for the assembly of marching and propeller variants, equipped with a full set of mounting and structural components.

A spiral modular staircase is assembled according to the principle of a children's designer of their components fully prepared for installation

Material Selection Arguments

For the construction of a welded metal staircase, the skills of a welder and an inverter apparatus are required. You can learn the basics of welding on your own, but for the construction of a presentable structure, the initial course is not enough. The pouring of a concrete structure is often determined by operating conditions. Steps made of concrete equip two, three-story mansions made of bricks, foam blocks, gas silicate panels. In addition, a cold concrete system will still have to be sheathed with wood or lined with other material. As a result, it turns out that you have to do double work.

The construction of a concrete staircase with wooden sheathing is equivalent in financial and labor costs to the manufacture of two separate structures.

Attention. In two-three-story cottages, according to fire safety requirements, it is necessary to install concrete or metal flights of stairs, which guarantee evacuation from the upper floors in case of fire.

Those who need a staircase to the attic should prefer wood. The material is light, easy to process, will not push through the floors.

Advice. For the arrangement of new low-rise wooden buildings, stepped systems made of wood are recommended due to shrinkage. It is difficult to predict how much the ceiling height will decrease, and what the difference will be between a concrete or metal staircase and a ceiling.

Probable mistakes made in the manufacture of a wooden structure will be easier to correct.

The most simple design

Those wishing to make a staircase on their own, no one will advise starting with a complex screw type. If the limited dimensions of the room do not allow choosing a simple flat option, it is better to purchase a ready-made set of modules or contact the builders.

The gently sloping "means of interfloor communication" will take up a lot of space, but the ascent and especially the descent along it will be the most comfortable. It is optimal that the angle of inclination does not exceed 37º. An inclination of 45º automatically translates the design into the category of attachments. You will need to go down on it with your back forward. The steepness of 40º is also not very convenient for descent.

Gentle stairs with an angle of inclination of no more than 37 degrees - the most comfortable

If there is a question of building on a limited area, preference should be given to a two-flight structure with a landing or winder steps.

Attention. Between straight marches directed towards each other, the distance should be at least 100 mm.

Between marches going "towards" each other, it is necessary to leave a distance

The steps can be supported on load-bearing stringer beams, can be attached to the wall with bolts, attached to two side bowstrings. Consider an example of construction with stringers.

We design a staircase with our own hands

Regardless of the presence or absence of experience, any master should start with calculations and design. The project focuses on safety and the creation of better conditions for movement.

Design and project requirements

  • The design must withstand a load exceeding the average weight of a person.
  • It must be equipped with fences, the location of which must be taken into account at the stage of project creation.
  • Fences are equipped with handrails and balusters, the distance between adjacent balusters should be less than the size of the child's head.

Note. In order to prevent situations threatening users, it is possible to protect the stairs not with balusters, but with a solid “canvas” of plexiglass or mesh if there are small children in the house.

  • The height of the structure is calculated according to the finishing floors of both floors or according to their estimated marks.

  • According to the standards, the sum of the width of the tread and the corresponding height of the riser must exceed 50 cm (minor deviations are possible). Recommended height within 14-17 cm, tread width 25-32 cm for full foot support.
  • Passage height 1.9-2.0 m. The size depends on the height of users, calculated taking into account the height of the tallest family member + 5 cm.
  • The comfortable width of the internal staircase is the distance between the wall and the handrail or between two handrails 0.90 - 1.00 m.

The principle of calculating steps is based on a simple formula

Design is the most critical stage. Mistakes made in the process will turn construction into a waste of time, effort and money. Projects are carried out by analogy, regardless of the material chosen, both the rules and calculations are identical.

Prepare the necessary material

We finally decided that we were building a staircase from lumber. For the manufacture of stringers, a pine board with a width of 40 mm is suitable. Risers, which you can refuse to install, can also be made from conifers. It is optimal if the treads are made of hardwood.

Advice. It is better to buy ready-made steps made of glued wood, created like glued beams from bars with different directions of fibers. They will not deform, dry out, crack.

Let's make braids right

According to the designed dimensions of the step, we draw a pattern. Then we will mark the boards and cut out peculiar teeth on it with an electric jigsaw. Those who wanted to know how to build a staircase with their own hands without mistakes and alterations probably guessed that all elements must be symmetrical. This means that the first sawn beam with teeth will serve as a template for the manufacture of the second, and if the width of the stairs is 1.20 or 1.50 m, then the third.

You need to start with the manufacture of stringers, for the production of which you need a template with the exact dimensions of the step, after which the teeth are cut out in the beam to install the steps

Installation of step elements

We fasten the treads and risers to the stringers with nails and self-tapping screws. The master, who decides not to use ready-made factory components, will also need to cut out these elements according to patterns made especially for them.

The tread can be made up of two boards

A structure is considered more reliable, on the supporting beams of which simple triangular or more complex fillies are first installed. For their installation and fastening, dowels and pre-made grooves are required.

Scheme: how to make a ladder with more reliable figured wooden fillies

Install balusters and railings

To install each baluster, we will use an anchor or a hairpin. First, according to the markup, we “put” the hairpin on the glue with the end, which then penetrates through the tread into the stringer, then we twist it and screw the baluster onto the free end. In the same way, fence posts are installed, between which balusters are placed. At the end, the pillars and balusters are equipped with handrails.

Guardrail installations

Video information: common mistakes

Before you get started, you should watch videos with a list and description of common errors.

The process of hand-made construction of stairs cannot be classified as the simplest, but it is not a super-difficult task either. The main snag in competent design. And then pedantry and accuracy should lead the performer, and everything will surely work out.

A wooden staircase with your own hands is made quite simply. However, there are a number of nuances on which the convenience and even safety of movement depends. I will tell you about all the intricacies of building a wooden structure so that you do not make mistakes in the process.

All work on the manufacture of stairs can be divided into two main stages:

  1. Design;
  2. Construction assembly.

Design

A staircase is a rather complex structure, so it is simply impossible to make it without a detailed project, especially for a beginner. The design process can be broken down into three main steps:

Step 1: Determining the type of structure

All existing types of stairs can be divided into two types:

  • Screw. The peculiarity of such structures is that they contain only winders located around the central pillar. It is advisable to use them if there is a minimum of space in the room.
    Keep in mind that such stairs are inconvenient to use, and also quite difficult to manufacture. Therefore, I would not recommend beginners to take on the construction of a spiral staircase;

  • Marching. These stairs have smooth marches (flights of stairs). They are more comfortable and safer to use. However, keep in mind that mid-flight stairs take up more space in the room.

Marching stairs, in turn, are divided into several subspecies:

  • Single-march. Consist of one straight flight of stairs;
  • Rotary with winder steps. They can have several flights of stairs, between which there are turning (winder steps);

  • Rotary with landings. Flat platforms are installed between the flights of these stairs. Such stairs are more convenient to use, but take up more space in the room;

  • "Duck step". The peculiarity of these stairs is the paddle-shaped steps, which are installed in pairs in the opposite direction. As a result, only one foot can stand on a step, hence their name.

Such stairs are less convenient, but they can be very steep, i.e. the angle of inclination can exceed 40-45 degrees.

The type of construction should be chosen depending on the conditions in the room and your requirements. If there is not enough space, you can make a "duck step" staircase, which requires a minimum of floor space on the ground floor. If pensioners or small children live in the house, it is better to sacrifice space, but make a turning staircase with marching platforms.

Stage 2: calculate the stairs

At this stage, you need to decide on such important parameters of the stairs as:

  • Number of treads;
  • riser height;
  • The angle of the stairs;
  • March length;
  • The area that the stairs will occupy on the first floor.

Any staircase should be comfortable and safe. To do this, when performing calculations, the following rules must be observed:

  • Step sizes. The height cannot be made more than 190 mm and less than 160 mm. The width of the tread should not be less than 220 mm and more than 330 mm.
    Keep in mind that all steps must be the same height and width, otherwise the stairs will turn out to be traumatic;
  • The number of steps in a flight of stairs. The most comfortable value is 11-15 steps. If there are more of them, it is advisable to divide the flight of stairs with a platform.
    In addition, it is desirable that the march has an odd number of steps, so that a person finishes the descent or ascent with the same foot with which he began moving up the stairs;
  • March width. Must be at least 90-100 mm;
  • Railing height. At least 90 cm.

Calculation of the number of steps. Before proceeding with the calculation of the stairs, you need to measure the height between floors, as well as the area allocated for the stairs. For example, the height between floors, i.e. the height of the stairs in our case is 3 m.

Now you can start calculating the number of steps and the height of the risers. These two parameters are interrelated.

To calculate the number of steps, you need to divide the distance between the floor of the first floor and the floor of the second floor by the height of the steps. The latter can be any within 160-190 mm. For example, let's take a height of 180 mm, in which case we will have the number of steps 300/18 = 16.6 pieces.

Since we need an even amount, we will correct the height by dividing the total height by the number of steps - 300/17 = 17.6 cm. In fact, the staircase will have 16 steps, since the last step is the floor of the second floor.

Tread width calculation. There is a formula for calculating a comfortable ladder - a + b = 470 mm, where:

  • a - riser height;
  • b - tread width.

From this formula we get the width of the tread 47-17.6 = 29.4. This size is well within the acceptable range.

March length calculation. Now it remains to calculate only the length of the march, i.e. the length of its projection on the floor. To do this, you need to multiply the width of the tread by the number of steps - 29.4x17 \u003d 499.8 ~ 5 m.

Since the stairs will turn out to be quite long, it is advisable to make it rotary, consisting of two marches. In this case, the first flight will have eight steps, including the platform, and the second flight will have nine steps, taking into account the floor of the first floor.

The width of the platform should be equal to the width of the march, i.e. at least 90-100 cm.

If necessary, you can adjust the parameters of the stairs to the conditions in the room - change the height of the risers and the width of the tread. The main thing is that these parameters remain within the acceptable range.

Calculation of the length of the kosour or bowstring. The calculation of the kosour is carried out according to the Pythagorean theorem - the length of the stairs in the square + the height of the stairs in the square = the length of the kosour in the square.

Stage 3: draw up a drawing

Now you need to prepare a drawing according to which you will make the details of the stairs. To do this, first consider the details that the design of a wooden staircase includes:

  • Kosour. Bearing beam on which the steps are laid. As a result, the kosour takes on the entire load when moving up the stairs;

  • Bowstring. It is also a carrier beam. It differs from the kosour by the absence of cutouts for the steps, as a result of which the treads are connected to the beam by the butt.
    To attach the treads to the bowstring, recesses are milled in it or bars are attached on which the tread is placed;

  • Steps. They consist of two elements - tread (horizontal board), riser (vertical board, which is located under the step). I must say that the design of a wooden staircase may not have risers, especially if it is based on bowstrings.

What is the best way to make a ladder - on stringers or bowstrings? The construction on bowstrings is faster and easier, since there is no need to make cutouts for the steps, however, the stairs on the stringers are able to withstand a large load.

Making stairs

Consider how a ladder is made of wood with your own hands. This process can be conditionally divided into several stages:

Stage 1: preparation of stringers

The work is done like this:

Illustrations Description of actions

Materials. At this stage, prepare boards with a section of 40 x 300 mm.

Beam preparation. Cut boards 40x300 mm along the length of the stringer according to the design calculations.

Kosour markup. For marking, use a construction square. Use it to mark the location of the steps and risers, as shown in the photo.

Keep in mind that the angle of the tread and stringer must match the angle of inclination. In order not to make mistakes in the calculations, you can perform the following steps:

  • Lock the kosour in working position;
  • Mark a cutting line for the bottom of the board that will rest on the floor;
  • Mark the first tread and riser with a square. In the process of marking, use the level so that the step is parallel.
    The distance from the cut line to the first tread should be equal to the height of the step;
  • Mark the remaining treads and risers, focusing on the markings of the first step.

Cutting out the kosour. Carefully cut out the cuts with a hacksaw, jigsaw or other tool.

In the same way, make all the other stringers.

To make paired kosours exactly the same, use the first kosour as a template - attach it to the board and circle it with a pencil.

Stage 2: frame assembly

Now we need to make the remaining elements of the ladder frame, and install them. The work is done like this:

Illustrations Description of actions

Materials. In addition to the kosour for assembly, you will need:
  • Beam 70x70 mm or 100x100 mm;
  • Boards 40x300 mm;
  • Glass for timber (fastener);
  • Joiner's glue.

Mounting the kosour to the wall:
  • Fix the kosour on the wall in working position;
  • Make sure the stringer is installed correctly. To do this, attach the level to the cutouts under the steps - they must be located strictly horizontally;
  • Fix the beam with anchors or self-tapping screws (if the wall is wooden);
  • In the same way, attach the stringer of the second span to the wall.

In order for the beams to be positioned correctly, it is advisable to mark the walls before installing them.

Support post installation:
  • Designate the location of the support column for the landing;
  • Fix the post to the floor with a special glass and dowel-nails.
  • Step back from the installed pole 10 cm (span spacing), and install a second pole on which the beam of the upper span will rest.

Column marking. Mark on the pole the junction of the second stringer. To do this, you can use a laser or water level.

Installation of the second stringer:
  • Treat the junction of the stringer with the pole with carpentry glue. It is advisable to pre-mill the junction.
  • Connect the stringer to the post;
  • On the back of the post, screw in a few self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes for them.

Installation of the stringer of the second span. The beam is attached to the post according to the same principle as the stringer of the first span.

Site frame assembly:
  • If the site is adjacent to the walls, fix 40x300 mm boards on the walls at the level of the site;
  • If the site does not adjoin the walls, install additional supports and pull them together with rails, as shown in the photo example.

This completes the installation of the frame. If your stairs are straight and without a platform, then all the work on assembling the frame comes down to installing two stringers.

Stage 3: cladding stairs

Sheathing stairs is carried out as follows:

Illustrations Description of actions

Materials. At this stage we will need:
  • Wooden boards 30x300 mm;
  • Joiner's glue;
  • Clapboard.

Marking steps and treads:
  • Mark the boards according to the dimensions of the treads and risers;
  • If the treads are rounded, mark with a template.

Cutting details. Use a jigsaw or other tool for this purpose.

In addition to treads and risers, you will also need boards for sheathing the landing.

Keep in mind that the tread should hang over the riser by a centimeter or two.


Hole drilling:
  • Mark the location of the screws on the parts;
  • Drill holes.

Processing the joints of parts with glue. Use wood glue for this.

Installation of steps and risers. Fasten the parts with self-tapping screws.

Sheathing the space under the stairs:
  • Fasten the rail on the floor under the outer stringer, as shown in the photo;
  • Sheathe the space between the floor and the stairs with clapboard. The boards are attached to the lower rail and stringer, and are also connected to each other into a lock.

Upper flight lining:
  • Fasten the slats between the stringers;
  • Attach the lining with self-tapping screws to the stringers and cross rails.

Stage 4. railing installation

Now you can start installing the railing. It is more expedient to buy ready-made balusters and handrails, since it is difficult to make them beautiful without the appropriate equipment. At the same time, their price is small - the cost of figured pine balusters starts at an average of 100 rubles apiece.

The installation process of balusters and railings looks like this:

Illustrations Description of actions

Materials. To equip the railing you will need:
  • A set of balusters;
  • handrails;
  • dowels;
  • Paint glue.

Installation of dowels for balusters:
  • Mark the treads so that all the dowels are on the same line;
  • Drill holes according to the diameter of the dowels;
  • Coat the holes with wood glue;
  • Drive dowels into the holes.

Installation of balusters. The instruction looks like this:
  • Drill a dowel hole in the bottom end of the baluster;
  • Lubricate the hole with glue;
  • Put the baluster on the dowel;
  • If the baluster is located close to the tread, it can be additionally “grabbed” with self-tapping screws.

Preparing balusters for handrail installation. Cut the top of the posts at an angle equal to the angle of the flight of stairs.

Fastening handrails to the outer posts:
  • Treat the junction of the handrail to the posts with glue;
  • Screw the screws from the bottom into the handrail obliquely so that they enter the column, as shown in the photo.

Fastening handrails to intermediate balusters.
  • Treat the junction of the balusters to the handrail with wood glue.
  • Screw the self-tapping screws obliquely into the balusters so that they fit into the handrail.

The process of manufacturing a wooden staircase is almost complete. Now all that's left is to do the finishing touches.

Stage 5: finishing

As a rule, in the process of finishing, wooden stairs are varnished, stained or impregnated with their own hands. This operation is carried out in the following sequence:

Illustrations Description of works

Materials. For finishing you will need:
  • Putty on wood (selected to match the color of the tree);
  • Paintwork.

Puttying:
  • Remove any dust and dirt from the surfaces you will putty;
  • Fill with putty the recesses of the self-tapping screws, as well as small cracks and other flaws in the wood, if any;
  • Level the surface immediately with a narrow spatula;
  • After the putty has hardened, it is necessary to clean its surface with sandpaper.

Sanding:
  • Sand all flat surfaces with a grinder;
  • Treat areas of complex shape with sandpaper manually.

Dust removal. Vacuum the surface of the stairs or wipe with a damp cloth.

Varnishing:
  • Apply the varnish in a thin, even layer with a brush;
  • After the surface has dried, apply the varnish again;
  • Upon completion of varnishing, the surface should be polished.

It is desirable to cover a wooden staircase with a matte varnish or impregnation. Covered with a glossy varnish can be slippery and unsafe to move around.

As you can see, stairs to the second floor are made quite simply, so for their manufacture it is enough to have basic woodworking skills.

Conclusion

We examined the process of making stairs with all its main nuances and subtleties, and now you can take on the job yourself. I recommend watching the video in this article. If you encounter any difficulties in the process of work - write comments, and I will be happy to help you.

The mid-flight staircase is easy to manufacture and is considered the best option for private homes. When constructing an engineering structure, it is necessary to build on two main requirements - safety and convenience. When erecting a staircase, it is important to strictly follow the rules of design, calculation and installation. In order to eliminate undesirable risks of not redoing the work in the future, it is necessary to initially focus on existing standards and norms.

Components and features of mid-flight stairs

An integral element of a two- or three-story house is a staircase. The most popular are two types of structures: wine and marching. For the construction of a spiral staircase, you will need to carry out complex calculations, since such a structure has one supporting element. Errors in the calculation of the expected loads can cause the destruction of the entire structure. Therefore, many choose a mid-flight staircase, which is quite realistic to build on their own.

For a more accurate understanding of how to make a marching staircase, you need to know its components. The design of the stairs includes the following elements:

  • load-bearing beams: bowstring or stringers;
  • supporting pillars;
  • steps (tread);
  • risers;
  • frieze steps;
  • balusters (fences);
  • handrails (railing);
  • winder step - instead of a platform;
  • skirting boards.

Let's describe in more detail each detail of the engineering structure:

  1. Stringers are the main element of the stairs. Bearing beam holding the entire structure. Stringers are made of wood, concrete or metal. Depending on the purpose, weight and specifics of the staircase device, the design may have a single central stringer, two on the sides, or three on the sides and an additional one in the center. The installation of the third stringer must be provided for heavy, massive structures with a high degree of traffic.
  2. The bowstring performs the same function as the stringers. In a stair bowstring, cutouts for treads are made on the inside of the beams.
  3. Steps consist of two parts: riser and tread. Tread - a horizontal surface, about 30 cm wide and about 90-150 cm long. The length of the tread determines the width of the entire structure. The vertical part of the step is a riser, 15-20 cm wide (height of the leg lift). Sometimes, to facilitate the design and decorative appeal, the stairs are made without a riser.
  4. Railings (balusters) are required for stairs with more than 3 steps. A row of balusters is called a balustrade. Balusters set the style of the whole structure. The richness of the choice of textures, shapes and materials allows you to create exclusive products.
  5. Railings are fixed on railings. The main requirement for handrails is the smoothness of the surface. It is on this element that a person leans with his hand while moving up the stairs. On the railing there should be no roughness, chips and notches.
  6. It is advisable to equip the sites if there are more than 10 steps in one span. On a horizontal plane, you can relax a bit. Often platforms are used to turn the stairs in the other direction.
  7. Winder steps replace a full-fledged platform. This solution is optimal when there is not enough space to accommodate a conventional site. The steps are narrowed on one side and widened on the other.

Important! Winder steps of a triangular shape are considered unsafe for walking. They should be used with caution in a house where children and the elderly live.

The popularity of mid-flight stairs is due to a number of their advantages:

  • ease of manufacture - a traditional staircase for 1-2 marches can be assembled independently;
  • ease of use - this type of design is universal, as it is suitable for residential premises and public institutions; it is convenient to move and lift heavy furniture and bulky goods along the marching stairs;
  • attractiveness - march rise looks good in interiors of various styles;
  • due to the reliable design, the staircase is able to withstand heavy loads, which cannot be said about alternative types of stairs, for example, spiral ones;
  • using winders, you can turn the stairs at different angles, creating complex serpentine structures.

Requirements for marching stairs

GOSTs and SNiPs stipulate standards that are mandatory for the construction of mid-flight stairs in apartment buildings. However, most of the standards are also relevant in the manufacture of stairs intended for private use.

  1. The width of the flight of stairs is at least 80-100 cm.
  2. On the stairs it is necessary to provide high-quality lighting, especially for the first / last steps.
  3. The height of the fence is from 90 cm.
  4. The marching ladder must withstand a load of about 180-220 kg, and railings - at least 100 kg.
  5. The angle of inclination of stairs located in residential premises is not more than 38 °. For attic stairs, an angle of inclination of 63-74 ° is acceptable. A single flight of stairs must have the same angle of inclination, constant along the entire length.
  6. It is important that the stairs are made of fire resistant materials. Wooden structures must be treated with special protective compounds.

Structures of mid-flight stairs

The type of stairs is determined depending on the dimensions of the building and the purpose of the room. Based on their number of marches, they distinguish: single-flight stairs, structures with two flights and multi-flight models.

It is desirable that the number of steps in one march does not exceed ten - this requirement is explained solely by ease of use. If the design involves the installation of more than ten steps, then it is better to equip two marches with an intermediate platform.

Advice. If the flight of stairs has a height of more than 3 meters, then it is necessary to mount a two-flight staircase.

Separate varieties of mid-flight stairs can be considered cantilever and spinal. One part of the steps of the cantilever staircase is installed directly to the wall, and the second part, as it were, floats in the air.

Important! The steps of the cantilever structure must be attached to the main wall. For the manufacture of such stairs, more durable materials are used, with a thickness of 6 cm or more.

"Suspended" structures save space and look very stylish, the only drawback of a cantilever staircase is the price. The cost for such models is an order of magnitude higher than for traditional marching climbs.

The spinal structure consists of several elements connected using a special technology. Parts are sequentially nested into each other. The main plus is the possibility of building marching stairs of various shapes.

The choice of materials for the manufacture of mid-flight stairs

In accordance with the material of manufacture, mid-flight stairs are divided into metal, wooden, concrete and glass stairs.

Monolithic concrete stairs installed in most apartment buildings, shopping malls, cinemas and other public places.

Concrete structures organically look in multi-storey mansions made of foam block, brick or gas silicate panels. In addition, the concrete staircase is very cold and will have to be sheathed with facing material (wood), and this is a double job.

Particularly durable metal constructions. Using metal components, you can create any composition that will favorably emphasize the individuality of the room.

The metal base of the stairs is of several types:

  • closed frame - applicable in buildings where it is planned to hide the frame using various materials;
  • an open structure with two stringers - a frame of rectangular section, and stringers repeat the shape of a ladder;
  • open staircase with one stringer - this design does not provide for risers; at increased loads, it is desirable to use additional consoles.

For the construction of a metal staircase, you will need an inverter apparatus and the skills of a welder. You can learn the basic nuances of welding on your own, but this is not enough to create a presentable and high-quality design.

When building stairs in a private house, metal is often combined with other materials: plastic, wood, brick or glass. For example, the frame of the structure is made of metal, and the steps are made of wood.

When choosing a metal, preference should be given to steel. The main advantage of the material is resistance to corrosion. This design will last at least 50 years. It is better to refuse the use of painted steel - its maximum service life is 5 years.

Brass structures are strong and reliable, but they quickly lose their original attractiveness and darken. Anodized aluminum is resistant to rust, but the material is vulnerable to mechanical damage.

Important! According to the requirements of fire safety in multi-storey cottages, it is necessary to install metal or concrete stairs that guarantee the evacuation of residents in the event of a fire.

wooden stairs easier to install than metal ones. When planning the installation of a wooden structure, special attention should be paid to the choice of material of manufacture.

Coniferous wood products quickly become loose, gradually begin to creak and dry out. Such wood is usually used to make compact folding ladders that can be stored in the attic.

For the construction of permanent stairs, it is better to use solid wood. At observance of production technology the wooden ladder will serve more than 100 years. The best option: ash, beech, oak, yew, wenge and ash. Medium-hard woods include: walnut, pear, black pine and birch. "Soft" wood: spruce, larch and pine. Unsuitable species for the construction of stairs: poplar and fir.

Despite some shortcomings, pine is widely used to create engineering structures, including mid-flight stairs. This is due to low cost, ease of processing, the possibility of tinting and ubiquity.

When choosing pine, you should give preference to high quality material - without cracks, resin lenses and knots. The wood must be well dried. The manufacture of such a ladder will cost a little more, but it will also last much longer.

Important! You should not buy poorly dried wood, even if its price is unbeatable. The finished product, as the material dries, will begin to warp and deform, violating the strength, reliability and geometry of the staircase structure.

Popular in the production of stairs solid oak - it is durable and has an attractive appearance. Cons of oak: high cost and porous structure. The surface of an oak product is difficult to polish and cannot be brought to a mirror finish.

Beech has similar characteristics to oak. It is more affordable, but has a high hygroscopicity. Beech color - light pink.

Ash is characterized by good performance properties. Some experts consider this material one of the best for the manufacture of staircases. The main advantages of ash: flexibility, plasticity and high strength of the rock. From ash, it will be possible to obtain perfectly smooth products, since the wood lends itself well to grinding.

glass stairs in demand in the arrangement of a room designed in high-tech style. For production, laminated or tempered glass is taken. But even such a durable material does not 100% eliminate the risk of splitting with a strong impact. After a few years, the glass begins to turn yellow. Another disadvantage of the glass structure is the complexity of construction. Installing such a ladder on your own will not work.

Do-it-yourself marching staircase: step-by-step production

Design and calculation of stairs

Before performing practical work, it is important to correctly design and calculate the stairs. These works should be carried out with great care, as any design errors may lead to assembly difficulties.

It is necessary to design the main components of the structure: steps, stringers and handrails.

Steps are calculated by the formula: 2A + B = 64 cm, where variable A is the width of this part, variable B is the height of the step. The value of B usually ranges from 14-17 cm.

  1. Measure the expected height of the stairs.
  2. Calculate the number of steps in the flight of stairs. To do this, divide the height of the stairs by the value B. If the total height of the stairs is 240 cm, and the height of the step is 16 cm, then the number of steps will be 15 (240/16).
  3. Calculation of the width of the steps - parameter A. Knowing the number of steps (B) it is not difficult to do this: 2A + 15 = 64, 2A = 49, A = 49/2 = 24.5 cm.

The second option for calculating the flight stairs is the use of tabular data.

When designing, it is important to remember that each step has a ledge hanging over the riser. The size of the protrusion should not be more than 3-4 cm, otherwise there is a risk of stumbling.

Important! There is a certain pattern: the higher the risers, the narrower the step will be. However, the width of a step cannot be less than the height. Optimally - 30 cm.

When designing, do not forget about the distance from the stairs to the ceiling and other objects located above. This value should be at least 190-200 cm.

To determine the horizontal size of the stairs, multiply the number of steps by their width. Here we must take into account that the first step is the floor. If the height of the structure is large enough, then it is necessary to equip an intermediate platform. In this case, the number of steps on each flight of stairs will be about 7-8.

If the project and design idea imply the presence of a strictly defined number of steps, then their height can be made a little less. Thanks to this solution, it will be possible to place the site.

Manufacturing of stringers

To create a stringer, a pine board with a thickness of 40 mm is suitable. The humidity of the tree should be in the range of 7-13%.

The sequence of manufacturing kosour:

  1. Prepare a pattern that repeats the bends of the steps.
  2. Mark the workpiece with a template. The lines of teeth should be without sharp corners.
  3. Cut out the teeth with a hacksaw or electric jigsaw. The resulting blank can be used as a template, cutting out the rest of the stringers.
  4. To ensure the strength and safety of the ladder structure, it is desirable to prepare three or four stringers in this way.
  5. Install the stringers in the place where the stairs are supposed to be placed.
  6. Check that the ends of the stringers rest against the floor of the first and the base of the second floor.
  7. Check the evenness of all cuts for the subsequent installation of steps.

Installation of steps and railings

Steps can be fixed to stringers using special wooden elements (fillies) or directly. Before installing them, it is necessary to prepare the required number of risers and treads, taking into account the size of the protrusions.

The first step is to install the risers. For this purpose, you can use screws or nails. However, it is considered more reliable to connect parts using triangular fillies. The fillies are fixed with dowels, under which grooves are pre-cut in the stringers. For additional strength, the parts are “planted” on glue and fastened with self-tapping screws.

When all the steps are installed, you can proceed with the installation of balusters and railings, for which fastening screws and studs are used.

The final stage is the opening of the stairs with varnish. This procedure will protect the structure from harmful insects, mold and dampness.

Marching stairs: photo ideas for various decors