Insulation of a mansard sloping roof from the inside. Do-it-yourself insulation of the mansard roof. Materials for self-insulation of the attic

If the attic space remains non-residential, the air in the under-roof space serves as good thermal insulation (along with floor insulation). In the case of the attic, everything is completely different: here the thermal insulation is very close to the roofing material and the task is not only to insulate the attic, but also to create conditions for the entire roofing system to serve for a long time.

Let's say right away that all the wood that is used in the construction of the roof must be treated with antiseptics. Indeed, everything: both battens and counter-battens, and rafters. All wooden parts. It is also necessary to make them less flammable. To do this, they are treated with flame retardants. All elements that are located on the side of the street are treated with compounds for outdoor work. Treat all wooden parts facing the inside of the room with impregnations for interior work. If you use the composition for outdoor use indoors, the specific smell will remain for several years. If on the contrary, the wood outside may suffer: the degree of protection is insufficient. So don't skimp on this.

More. Before describing how to insulate a mansard roof with your own hands, it is worth recalling this: a ventilation system must be organized in the under-roof space. For this, special ventilation holes are arranged on the skate. Through them, the air from under the roofing material escapes, carrying away excess moisture. And it must fall under the roofing through the overhangs. There absolutely can not be done all hermetically. That's where the air comes from. Only in this way will the condensate dry out in a timely manner and the roof will serve for a long time.

Proper attic insulation

In order for the attic floor to be warm in winter and cool in summer, there are no problems with high humidity, icicles do not freeze on the roof, it is necessary to properly insulate the roof. But in the case of a roof, insulation, vapor and waterproofing are a complex solution, and one without the other works very poorly, or does not work at all.

If the sloping roof is at the same time the walls of the attic floor, the pie will be as follows (from inside to outside):

• internal lining (drywall or lining);
• crate;
• vapor barrier;
• insulation (the thickness of the insulation depends on the region and the parameters of the insulation, for central Russia it is about 200 mm);
• superdiffusion membrane;
• ventilation gap;
• crate;
• roofing.

The photo shows the insulation of a broken mansard roof in a graphical version. Please note: a superdiffusion membrane is laid over the insulation (indicated in blue). Its purpose is to prevent condensate formed or precipitation seeping through the roofing from entering the insulation and removing the steam that nevertheless got into the mineral wool, ensuring its drying. Therefore, with a vapor permeability of 1500 g / m 2. This layer is often called waterproofing (as it is, in fact, it is), only waterproofing is vapor-permeable.

Laying waterproofing

Ideally, it fits exactly as shown in the figure: wrapping the rafters and closely fitting on the insulation. Often, to save money, they roll it out over the rafters, but without pulling it, but making it sag by 3-5 cm. This option also works well: moisture gets on the surface, and then rolls down and out of the roof. Here is another important point: the membrane must go into the gutter. Then the moisture will be removed from the under-roof space.

A few more points on laying the membrane. It rolls across the rafters, starting from the bottom. The first row is launched into the gutter. The next one is rolled out with an overlap of 10-15 cm. And so on until the ridge. On the ridge, the membranes are cut off on both sides along the upper edge and fixed. A strip rolls along the ridge, descending from one and the other side of the roof. It turns out a coating through which water flows down to the gutter itself.

Vapor barrier and rules for its installation

It is worth talking separately about the vapor barrier. It must also be a membrane. Polyethylene or polypropylene film will not work: its characteristics are not the same. The vapor permeability of this layer (expressed in g/m2) should be as low as possible. Ideally, it is equal to zero. That is, this layer should not allow vapors to pass from the room into the insulation layer. When using mineral wool as insulation, this is very important: when wet, it loses more than half of its properties, and when it freezes in a wet state and then melts, it generally crumbles into dust.

Therefore, the vapor barrier film is also laid with the entry of one panel onto another. Moreover, these joints are glued with a special double-sided vapor-tight tape (it looks like sticky rubber). Ordinary painting or stationery will not work. They do not provide 100% vapor protection. In addition to the joints, all junctions are also glued: from below, from the sides, from above.

A line is drawn on the vapor barrier. It marks the border from which the next layer starts (this is the amount of overlap) and the line along which the canvases are fastened with adhesive tape

The vapor barrier is usually attached to the lags with stapler brackets or, as in the figure, with planks of the inner crate for mounting the skin. In this case, another ventilation gap is formed, which will dry the finish and the membrane. This clearance is desirable but not required. In principle, the lining can be mounted directly on top of the membrane.

thermal insulation

The better to insulate a sloping roof - the question is complex and there is no unequivocal answer to it. Mineral wool is used, only hard, with a density of 30-50 kg / m 3. Since the mansard roof usually has a large angle of inclination, soft materials can slip. It is for this reason that it is better to take plates. Although in this case it will be necessary to adjust the pitch of the rafters to the dimensions of the insulation: it should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the plate so that the material becomes “spread” between the beams and holds well.

It is necessary to lay thermal insulation in such a way that there are as few cold bridges as possible. For central Russia, usually 200-250 mm of mineral wool is required. These are several layers of mats. When laying between the rafters, the slabs are positioned so that the seams of one row overlap the next. The width of the insulation, as already mentioned, should be slightly wider than the distance between the rafters. Then the plate becomes dense, excluding the presence of cracks. If the width is more/less, you have to cut the material. At the same time, the chance to get a smooth edge is small and there are many residues.

If the dimensions of the rafter do not allow laying the entire insulation, planks of the required thickness are stuffed across from the side of the room. Between them lay the remnants of insulation. From above, a vapor barrier is already attached to it and, if necessary, a crate for finishing. This option is even better: cold bridges are completely excluded, blocking even the rafters. This method requires a little more installation costs, but it will definitely be warmer in the attic, which will reduce heating costs.

How to insulate a mansard roof: the order of work

The device of the attic floor is good because it allows you to stretch the end of construction. It is immediately necessary to lay and fix the superdiffusion membrane on the rafters, the crate and roofing material on it. And attic insulation can be done from the inside after a while.

But pay attention: the waterproofing layer must be mounted together with the roofing. This is the main mistake of many developers: they do not lay this membrane. As a result, either it is necessary to remove the roof and lay it, or to invent systems to correct this shortcoming. The whole problem is that in this case there is no cheap solution that guarantees the normal state of the materials.

We warm outside

If you do everything at once, the order of work is as follows:

With this option, it is not difficult to work with a heater: it is easy to lay it, it relies on a crate (laces).

Warming from the inside

This option allows you to move the interior decoration for the required period (useful if there is a shortage of funds). After installing the truss system, here's what you need to do:

• roll out and fix the waterproofing;
• stuff the crate (if necessary, a counter-crate);
• install roofing material.

For the first stage, this is all the necessary work. After the opportunity to continue, you will need to insulate the mansard roof from the inside. It will no longer be so convenient to work: you will have to make a building envelope that will not allow you to push the insulation higher than necessary. The cotton wool itself will have to be fixed in some way: it strives to fall on the head. The order of work is as follows:

A few notes on how you can lay the heat-insulating material. If these are high-density mineral wool mats and their width is a little more than the step between the lags, everything is relatively simple: they themselves hold up well.

If rolled mineral wool is laid, everything is more difficult. Making the insulation of the mansard roof from the inside, it is laid from the bottom up. Take a string, a construction stapler. Roll out the cotton, press it against the planks, fasten a piece of lace with staples, drawing the letter Z. This is how you fix the first layer, followed by the second and all subsequent ones.

In general, if you want the mansard roof to be warm, it is better to use mineral wool mats of the required density of 30-50 kg / m 3. They are tough enough to hold their shape well. Softer rolled materials on vertical surfaces or with a large slope are caked, settling down, the thermal insulation of the mansard roof deteriorates.

What is the best way to insulate a mansard roof

As mentioned above, the most popular material for insulating a mansard roof is mineral wool. It is good, but not at all ideal: it is afraid of moisture. That is why it requires such careful protection from all sides so that it retains its properties.

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene)

Sheathe the roof with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam - EPS. Polyfoam (grades PSB-S-25, PSB-S-35) has good characteristics, but when burned, it emits harmful substances, although there are self-extinguishing grades (with special additives). Here they are better for roof insulation for roof insulation.

The main advantage of polyfoam: low price. It is mounted simply: it is placed between the rafters, all joints are sealed with mounting foam. It is convenient to insulate the attic from the inside with foam plastic: order the plates of the right size - 10-15 mm more than the gap between the rafters - and put them tightly. Due to the elasticity, they hold very well.

From the side of the roof, a ventilation gap is also left and waterproofing is laid. But it protects more a wooden structure, since polystyrene foam is not afraid of moisture, it practically does not absorb it itself, it does not conduct steam. This is where the main drawback lies. Since the material does not let the vapor through, a good ventilation system is needed in the attic, and this is an additional cost.

XPS has the best characteristics: under equal conditions, its thickness is two times less than mineral wool of the specified density and one and a half times less than that of polystyrene. It also has a system of locks, which reduces the risk of cracks, through which heat will fly away. Another plus: mice and insects do not like extruded polystyrene foam, fungi and mold do not multiply on it. What limits its use: a solid price. You also need a ventilation system.

EPPS brands - Ekstrol, STEREKS, PENOPLEX, URSA XPS, Technoplex, PRIMAPLEX (PRIMAPLEX), Styrofoam (Styrofoam), KINPLAST (KINPLAST), Teploizolit, GREENPLEX (GREENPLEX). While the technology is the same, there are some differences in performance, so compare when choosing.

Not so long ago, a new type of insulation appeared: expanded polystyrene foam. It is applied in liquid form to the surface, reacting with air, multiplying in size, filling all the cracks and forming a monolithic layer. This is perhaps the only way today to correct the situation and insulate the attic with high quality, if during the installation of the roofing they forgot to lay a layer of waterproofing.

Ecowool

This insulation has good characteristics (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.036-0.040 W / m² ° C), but a special application technology. It is necessary to organize a closed cavity into which the composition is poured. In the case of a mansard roof, the side parts are rafters, sheet material (fiberboard, GVL, plywood, etc.) is nailed to them from below and from above.

A feeding sleeve is launched into the formed cavity, from which loosened cotton wool comes out under pressure. It fills all the cavities, forming a single layer of insulation.

The main advantage of ecowool compared to all the heaters described above is that it conducts steam. It can absorb moisture up to 20% of the volume, and then give it away. That is, there is no need to organize a vapor barrier: humidity is regulated in a natural way, as is the case with wood. The ventilation gap between the roof and the insulation should be all the same, as well as the properly organized movement of air masses in it.

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The desire to live better, to have spacious houses, separate rooms for each family member and guests is a completely natural desire of our fellow citizens. Improvement of living conditions can be achieved in two ways: build large and expensive houses using traditional technology or use modern solutions and convert attic spaces into residential ones. These are the so-called attic rooms, this method allows you to achieve your goals with minimal financial losses.

Due to the successful combination of housing quality, living comfort and the estimated cost of construction work, attic rooms are very popular among domestic developers. Currently, there are many technologies and special materials for the insulation of such premises. In order to make the right and informed choice, it is recommended to briefly familiarize yourself with their physical and operational characteristics.

The industry produces a wide range of materials used for building insulation. Regardless of the production technology, all of them must meet several universal requirements.

These are general requirements, and popular heaters meet optimal performance to varying degrees.

What materials can be used to insulate a mansard roof

We will give a brief description of all possible options, and based on objective characteristics, it will be easier for developers to make the right choice.

Table. Types of insulation for the attic

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Before deciding on the choice of insulation, it is recommended to carefully compare the objective characteristics of the materials, while not paying much attention to the marketing moves of manufacturers, but trusting independent information.

And one more very important point: if the thickness of the insulation does not correspond to the climatic zone, then you should not expect a great effect from such insulation. No need to save, it is better to make the thickness with a margin of about five centimeters.

The roof is one of the most important structural elements of a building. It is exposed to various environmental factors. Protects the house from high and low temperatures, precipitation, solar radiation. If the roof is not insulated in accordance with building codes, heat loss through the roof can reach a third of the total heat loss of the house. Insulation of a mansard roof is not such a simple process as it might seem, although it is doable with your own hands. If your house has an attic floor, the question will inevitably arise how to insulate the attic roof. Many owners prefer to make an extra room there. First, it increases the total living area of ​​the house. And secondly, there is a new original room. During the construction of modern cottage settlements, attic rooms are planned initially. But even in old houses, you can easily convert the attic with your own hands into a living space.

The insulating material used for the attic roof, in addition to keeping the heat in the house, protects against acoustic vibrations. Therefore, it is important to decide how best to insulate the attic roof.

First you need to decide how to insulate the roof of your attic. To date, there are many options for thermal insulation materials. Mounting them is easy to do with your own hands.

Thermal insulation should contribute to maintaining a favorable atmosphere in the room. In winter, the house should be kept warm, and in summer - cool.

There are many nuances in the installation of the roof itself. The walls of the attic room are either the gables of the building or the slopes of the roof, or are adjacent to the slopes. That is why the intensive movement of air through the roof begins. Because of this, it is constantly exposed to temperature changes. To avoid the above problem, attic insulation must be carried out in sequence (from the inner layer to the outer layer):

1. Vapor barrier layer.
2. Heat insulating layer.
3. Ventilation gap.
4. waterproof layer.
5. Directly roofing material.

If high-quality insulation of the mansard roof is carried out, then the absence of the above layers is not recommended. Of particular note is the role of the heat-insulating layer and the ventilation gap. It is thanks to the presence of all layers that the microclimate in the attic room is provided.

What to look for when choosing a heater

When choosing a heater, you should first look at thermal conductivity. This is the ability to give and absorb heat between the attic space and the surrounding air. A material with low thermal conductivity is desirable. Firstly, it will contribute to better protection of the house from heat leaks. And secondly, a thin layer of heat-insulating material is required.

Properly insulated attic

On the other hand, if the attic roof is not adequately insulated, problems begin in winter. During the winter months, the roof is covered with a layer of snow. Snow is a good additional heat-insulating layer. But with insufficient insulation with your own hands, heat is lost through the roof. The snow is gradually melting. A layer of ice forms. Ice is unable to retain heat. It has a mechanical effect on structures. Including on the outer covering of the roof. This leads to its wear and gradual destruction. Sometimes because of this, it is required to repair the outer roofing layer after each winter. With sufficient thermal insulation, snow does not melt and does not turn into ice in winter. The roof retains its structure, and the snow provides additional protection against heat loss. In summer, the situation is reversed. Under the influence of direct solar radiation, the roof tends to heat up and a suffocating atmosphere is created. If you lay a layer of insulation in sufficient quantities, this problem will not be, and a comfortable environment is provided in the attic.

The main characteristics of heaters

When deciding how to insulate the attic roof of a house from the inside, in addition to thermal conductivity, it is necessary to pay attention to several more important parameters of the insulating material. The most important characteristics:

• water resistance;
• weight;
• fire safety;
• durability;
• material thickness;
• environmental characteristics;
• terms of operation.

Moisture resistance is usually specified by the manufacturer of a particular material. It is an important parameter, since the roof can leak and get wet. Therefore, it is desirable to choose a material with water-repellent properties. If this is not available for one reason or another, then the layer will have to be additionally waterproofed. The weight of the material is also of great importance. The smaller it is, the better. The total weight of the material is determined based on its relative density. Mineral wool materials should be with a density of 45 to 50 kg / cubic meter. When using fiberglass, the density should be within 20 kg/m3. Heavier materials will put excessive pressure on structures.

Insulating layers must be non-combustible. This is usually reflected in the technical documentation. As for durability, the ability of the insulation to maintain its shape for many years is important. After all, the roof can be multi-pitched. If the insulation is deformed, the roof will simply lose its protective properties.

What materials are popular

It is necessary to disassemble each separately in order to decide how to properly insulate the roof of the attic. Main materials:

• Styrofoam;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• polyurethane foam;
• mineral wool;
• glass wool.

The better to insulate the attic roof, you decide. But before that, you need to familiarize yourself with each material.

Styrofoam- this is a sought-after material among people who are faced with the problem of how to properly insulate a mansard roof. It has suitable thermal conductivity, low density and, accordingly, low weight. Polyfoam provides good protection against water, it is quite inexpensive. On the other hand, it has certain disadvantages. Its main disadvantage is the lack of fire safety. Also, when installing with your own hands, it often crumbles. As a result, gaps appear between the rafters. This, in turn, leads to a decrease in the thermal insulation characteristics of the coating. Styrofoam also has a short service life.

Extruded polystyrene foam has the best features. Firstly, it is non-combustible and provides the necessary fire safety. Doesn't crumble over time. Has water repellent properties. The advantage is also that a very thin layer of material is needed. The material is not recommended to insulate living quarters.

polyurethane foam differs from the previous options in the way of laying. This leaves no gaps. The material retains its shape very well. It has the necessary fire safety and repels moisture. The disadvantage of polyurethane foam is the poor ability to pass vapor. Because of this, there may be increased humidity in the attic room. The problem is solved by the organization of adequate ventilation.

Mineral wool and glass wool commonly known as insulating materials. They have many advantages. Excellent fire safety, keep heat well, have a low density. Do not leave cracks and gaps when laying. The material provides excellent sound insulation, has a low price. The disadvantages include high moisture absorption and vapor absorption.

Important: installation of glass wool is carried out in closed clothing, a mask and gloves. Contact of material particles with skin and mucous membranes should be avoided.

Laying heat-insulating material

When insulating the attic, do not forget about hydro and vapor barrier

After selecting the material, it is necessary to prepare the premises for installation. Insulation of the attic roof begins with determining the step of laying the insulation. We must try to ensure that the sheets of insulation fit closely between the roof rafters. This will avoid the formation of gaps and further heat loss. If you are using foam, then this nuance does not matter to you. Waterproofing is laid with an overlap between the rafters and the crate. Then, with the help of screws, wooden panels are installed to provide ventilation. The insulating material itself is mounted directly on the created platform between the rafters.

Tip: the rafters themselves let heat through. It is necessary to lay an additional thin layer of insulating material on top. Be sure to remember the location of the rafters.

This is useful when attaching various structures in the attic room.

Video: brief abstracts of proper thermal insulation with mineral wool insulation

Thus, it is not difficult to insulate the roof. To do this, you need to choose the right material that suits you. And then, in accordance with the technology, mount the insulation. As a result, a favorable climate for living will be created in the attic room.

Today we will talk about the insulation of the attic. What is an attic? Attic - the same attic, if in our opinion. Only used for commercial or residential purposes. Of course, when using it, roof insulation is required. After all, you will not live in a cold room? If there is heating in the attic, its entire effect will be destroyed by an uninsulated roof. Keep in mind that warm air always rises. If there are no obstacles in his way, he will easily leave the house through the roof. Therefore, attic insulation is a necessary operation for its improvement.

• insulation is done before the final installation of the roof (slate, tiles, profiled sheet) - put insulation on top, from the side of the street;
• insulation stacked from below, with the finished roof, the work goes inside the attic.

As a rule, the first method is most often used during the initial construction. Then, when it is planned in advance to use the attic. This method is also used in case roofing or building modifications.

The second type of insulation installation is used more often. After all, with this method it is possible to conduct work at any convenient time. For example, there is an addition in the family, and at the family council they decided to allocate a separate room to one of the family members. But there is no money to build a good addition to the house. Exit one - equip a room in the attic, make a residential attic. You can gradually insulate it in the cold season (of course, not in severe frosts).

Types of roof insulation

There are several types of insulation used for roof insulation. In the technical language of builders, they are called roofing heat-insulating materials. Consider the most popular of them.

Which one to use for you personally - decide for yourself. All these materials are used precisely as roofing heat-insulating materials. Each has its pros and cons. It is only necessary to take into account that loose heat insulators (wool) are more difficult to lay during installation - plates and mats are easier to fit than rolls or just bales. But again - when laying cotton wool easier to ensure the absence of gaps in the layer. In addition, the material for insulation should be environmentally friendly, because the room is insulated as a result from the inside, and not from the outside. In this regard, mineral wool and glass wool lose to other materials: mineral wool sometimes contains high levels of formaldehyde- substances that are very harmful to health, and glass wool can bring glass particles into the body. It is better to use them when arranging the attic for economic purposes.

Stages of roof insulation with polystyrene foam

In view of the above, we will briefly consider the stages of roof insulation using extruded polystyrene foam. In fact, it is a modern heir to foam, but surpasses it in terms of strength and insulating properties. Pretty resistant to ultraviolet radiation. Available in sheets of various sizes and colors.

If our roof has already been installed in accordance with all the rules, then it already has waterproofing. It is a film over the entire roof area, located directly below the roofing. In the absence of waterproofing, installation will have to be done from the outside - it will be necessary to remove the roofing and make waterproofing. And since the roof is dismantled, it will be easier and more convenient to do everything from above - it is easier to lay a layer of heat-insulating material. But we proceed from the fact that there is waterproofing, so in our case we will insulate the roof from below - from inside the attic. So let's get started.

• The first thing to do is treat the wooden elements of the roof with an antiseptic and let it absorb well and dry. It is better if the treatment is carried out with a flame retardant. Of course, if there are rotten or moldy parts, they should be replaced.
• The next stage is the fastening of sheets of extruded polystyrene foam into the openings between the roof rafters. In this case, special fasteners should be used - brackets or corners (which you will find on sale). They can also be supported by thin rivers nailed across the rafters. Between the waterproofing and the sheets there must be a gap of 2 to 5 cm - to ensure ventilation. The sheets should be fastened carefully, leaving no gaps between them and the rafters. If there are gaps, they should be sealed with cut pieces of polystyrene foam or mounting foam. Usually the thickness of the sheets is less than the thickness of the "legs" of the rafters. In this case, the sheets are laid in several layers, and joints (joints) of sheets are made in different places- to avoid cracks. The laid and fixed sheets, together with the mounting rails, must form a flat surface without protrusions and slots.
• Next, we attach a layer of vapor barrier. They serve as a special film. It may look like a regular one, or it may be in the form of a membrane, foil or perforated. The film is attached to the rafters with a stapler with a small with an overlap of 10-15 cm. These joints, especially at the rafters, are additionally sealed with a special tape. This is due to a decrease in vapor barrier properties at the junction with the rafters. Usually the tape should be glued across the rafters. You do not need to pull the film strongly, let it sag a little (up to 1 cm) in the middle of the opening.
• At the final stage, we do a fine finish - we fix the lining, plastic, sheets of moisture-proof fiberboard, chipboard, plywood or drywall. Can be mounted close to the vapor barrier, but it is possible on a thin crate of slats. If necessary, glue wallpaper or cover with varnish or paint.

The result of the roof should look the same as in the picture on the left. At all stages of installation, we do not forget about the reliable insulation of engineering systems, if any. It is better to install electrical wiring in a non-combustible cable channel or corrugation, and use metal and asbestos materials for the chimney. Next, consider some of the nuances of insulation.

If you do not have waterproofing, then you definitely need it mounted between the roof and insulation. In this case, one should not forget about the ventilation gap - it is better if it is on both sides of the waterproofing. If this requirement is not met, the attic room will have a specific, uncomfortable microclimate.

Not worth the whole process of work save on the quality of materials. Both in the direct technical sense and in the ecological one.

When choosing mineral wool as a heat-insulating material, do not forget that it pretty heavy, and with time begins to lose shape - sag. To prevent this, mount the supporting elements (battens) as often as possible.

Use glass wool - carefully insulate it with a vapor barrier and exterior finishes from the living volume of the premises.

I hope that after reading the article, you will have a complete understanding of how to insulate your attic. With the right heat-insulating materials and their installation in your house or cottage, there will be one more living room.

Video instruction for attic insulation with foam plastic

today is not uncommon. Increasing useful square meters at the expense of the attic is the easiest way. But in order to throughout the year, the roof will have to be insulated. Therefore, in this article we will consider how the attic is insulated from the inside if the roof is already covered with roofing material. We will figure out what thermal insulation materials can be used for this and what technologies to use for this.

And although many believe that the attic is a kind of attic, in fact, this is a completely different room, which differs from the first in size. And the main one is height. It must be at least 2.5 m.

In all other respects, this is an attic space, fenced with a truss system with laid on it. If the roof is gable, then on both sides the attic is protected by gables - vertical walls that support the truss structure. It is in them that they make doors with access to the adjacent balcony. But the main walls of the room are the roof of the house with a certain slope of the slopes.

The technology for assembling the rafter system and roofing material lies in the fact that between them it is necessary to fit, protecting wooden structures from unexpected leaks from the side of the roofing. This is a kind of insurance policy. On roofs, roll-type waterproofing material is mainly used, which is laid in strips from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap of 20-30 cm and fastened to the rafter legs. The film is laid with a slight sag in case of thermal tension or expansion, plus the edges of adjacent strips must be fastened with adhesive tape or self-adhesive tape.

Then, along the rafters, wooden slats are stuffed along the rafters, which are called the counter-lattice, and already transverse battens, called the crate, are mounted on them. Roofing material with fasteners is laid on the latter.

The inside view of the attic is rafter legs covered with a waterproofing layer on top. It is this design that will have to. The question of how to properly insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands, we emphasize - with your own hands - requires, first of all, the definition of a heater, or rather, its choice. Because not all modern thermal insulation materials can be used independently. But we will deal with all, and be sure to designate the best of them.

Mansard roof insulation

It should be noted that the slope of the slopes that define the walls of the attic is a cellular structure formed by rafter legs. It is between them that it will be necessary to lay the heat-insulating material. Therefore, the main requirement for the latter is to be dense with clear forms. So, for the insulation of the mansard roof of a private house, it will be necessary to choose slab material. Such heaters include mineral wool in mats and polystyrene foam boards, also known as high-density foam.

But, as mentioned above, today the market offers completely unique technologies for insulation that do not use dense materials. One of them, which showed itself from the most positive side, is liquid polyurethane foam. Let's start in order and consider each insulation separately.

Mineral wool

The definition of mineral wool includes several varieties of this building material: glass wool, slag wool, stone variety. When it comes to attic insulation, it is necessary to talk about the basalt variety, as the best to date. It is its technical characteristics that we will consider.

Basically, basalt wool is divided by density. There are four positions here:

• P-75- used for insulation of pipes and horizontal surfaces;
• P-125- this is exactly the same material that is used to insulate the walls of the attic from the inside with your own hands;
• PZh-175- for thermal insulation of metal and structures;
• PPZh-200- a very dense material used for thermal insulation of rigid load-bearing structures.

Styrofoam boards

Often this material is called foam, which is true. Just from the variety that is used for packaging, polystyrene foam boards differ in density. Therefore, the material itself is very hard and durable, well withstanding mechanical stress and moisture.

We will immediately make a reservation that such material is not recommended for insulation due to its high flammability and the love of rodents. But if you still intend to use it, then to insulate the attic roof, it is better to take expanded polystyrene plates with a density of at least 25 kg / m³.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

It is a two-component thermal insulation material consisting of polyol and polyisocyanate. The two components are supplied separately in different containers, but during the application process they are mixed in one container and are supplied under pressure to the thermal insulation areas through a hose and a spray gun. In fact, polyurethane foam is a liquid substance that quickly hardens in air, turning into a solid and fairly durable coating.

The thermal conductivity characteristic is taken as the basis for the quality of heaters. Comparing the three types, it can be noted that the weakest among them is mineral wool, the most ideal is polyurethane foam.

But this does not mean that everyone should use PPU. This material is not the cheapest, and it will require special equipment to apply it. True, it should be noted that equipment manufacturers today offer mini-stations, the weight of which is only 30 kg. It contains two containers with components, hoses and a nozzle. The compressor will need to be purchased separately, but it is better to take it from friends or rent it.

And a few more varieties of heat-insulating materials, which are rarely used in roof insulation from the inside with their own hands.

glass wool

Ecowool

Penofol

How to insulate an attic for winter living - video and nuances of the ongoing process

So, we decided on thermal insulation materials. Now consider how to properly insulate the mansard roof with each.

Attention! When insulating the attic, it is necessary to adhere to two main nuances: the thickness of the layer to be laid must be equal to the width of the rafter legs, the width of the insulation must be equal to a little more than the distance between the rafters.

Warming the attic with mineral wool from the inside with your own hands: video and photo instructions

A photo	Description of works
	Mineral wool is laid out on the floor of the attic. The required width is measured, which corresponds to the distance between the rafters, plus 2-3 cm. This is done so that the insulation enters between the elements of the truss system without leaving.
	Now a piece of insulation cut to the required dimensions must be laid between the rafter legs. If the slope of the roof slope is sufficiently gentle, then the heat-insulating material under its own weight may fall out of the cell.
	Therefore, transverse slats are stuffed along the rafters from the inside, which are temporarily attached to the rafter legs.
	Instead of rails, you can use a strong thread, which is pulled through the studs driven in a checkerboard pattern along the inner planes of the rafter legs.
	Insulation is being laid under the stuffed rails.
	It remains only to close the heat-insulating cake with a waterproofing film. Its purpose is to keep moist air vapor from penetrating into the heat-insulating layer. Because mineral wool is a hygroscopic material, and under the influence of humidity, it begins to lose its properties.
	The waterproofing membrane is nailed or nailed to the rafter legs. Laying is carried out in overlapping strips, starting from the bottom up.

Attention! If one layer of mineral wool is not enough to insulate the attic roof from the inside with your own hands to cover the width of the rafter legs, then a two-layer installation is performed. In this case, the material slabs must be laid with an offset relative to each other. Joints between plates in one layer must not be allowed to coincide with joints in the second layer.

Insulation of the attic with foam

As mentioned above, it is not recommended to use polystyrene foam boards for attic insulation. One of their main advantages is low, almost zero, water absorption. Therefore, there is no need to arrange protective layers for this insulation. That is, if during the construction of the roof under the roofing material a hydro- or vapor barrier membrane was not used, then PP boards are the cheapest option for thermal insulation.

A photo	Description of works
	As in the case of mineral wool, styrofoam boards are cut to the size of the distance between the rafter legs.
	Slabs cut to size are laid in the truss system. It is necessary to indicate that there should be a space between the insulation and the roofing material, which will be used in the future, as it removes not only moist air vapor, but also some harmful components of the thermal insulation material itself. Without the formation of this gap, the PP cannot be laid.
	Another layer is already laid on top of the rafters. Its main task is to cover the entire surface with itself and prevent cold air from passing between the first layer and the rafters, because it is very difficult to lay PP boards tightly to the rafter structure. The second layer is fastened to the rafters with self-tapping screws with a wide metal washer.

Insulation of roofs of different geometries

The methods of thermal insulation of a pitched roof have been described above, in which the slope is one plane. But attics are also being formed under sloping roofs, so the issue of insulating a sloping roof from the inside is no less relevant today. In principle, there are no serious differences in the technology itself, especially with regard to the use of polyurethane foam. It is simply sprayed in one layer, without joints.

A broken roof has a junction of two types of rafters, which form a hall. It is this area that is the most dangerous in terms of the penetration of cold air from the outside. Therefore, at the junction of the two systems, it is necessary to carry out the butt laying of heaters without butt. This works best if mineral wool is used. It is flexible, so that it can be shaped into a bend, that is, a transition from one slope to another.

With a sloping roof, an attic room is rarely left without a ceiling. It is built at the transition level. Therefore, two slopes are insulated, located in the same transitional plane, then the ceiling itself is necessarily insulated. In some cases, if it becomes difficult to carry out the thermal insulation of the upper slope or the task is to save money, then the thermal insulation of the upper slope is not carried out, limited to the insulation of the ceiling.

What mistakes can occur when insulating the attic from the inside

When answering the question of how to properly insulate the roof of a house from the inside of an attic room with your own hands, you need to understand that this process itself is simple (not counting the use of polyurethane foam). But in order for the end result to correspond to a high degree of quality, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of the technology and strictly follow the recommendations of specialists and manufacturers of thermal insulation materials. So, what to look for:

1. Mineral wool should only be laid if there is a vapor barrier under the roofing material. Its main purpose is to remove air vapors that are located in the insulation itself.
2. There must be a gap between the heat-insulating cake and the roofing, which is used for ventilation of the roof. Therefore, the roofing material is laid on the crate, which is mounted on the counter-crate.
3. If the angle of inclination of the slopes is less than 13 °, then it is better not to organize an attic under such a roof. at this angle it comes off weakly, so there is a high probability of leakage.
4. If skylights are installed on the roof slopes, then care must be taken to install them tightly. It is better not to do it yourself, call the experts.
5. If the thickness of the acquired insulation is greater than the width of the rafter legs, then the slats can be pierced along the lower edges of the latter.

So, we examined how to properly insulate the roof of a private house from the attic side. If you have any questions, you can leave them in the comments. The editors of our site will definitely answer them.