Assembly of cabinet furniture such as furniture. Assembly of cabinet furniture. The main types of fasteners, the technology of their use. How to install a kitchen set

Allow me to congratulate you!

The pleasant expectation regarding the delivery of custom-made products has become a reality. Finally, they brought a kitchen set or a set of upholstered, cabinet furniture - and soon you will be able to enjoy the desired purchase ...

In the meantime, the assembly of the brought kit is on the agenda. We proceed from the fact that the location of the units of the headset is determined in advance and does not require rearrangement and adjustment in size. For the kitchen environment, it is considered that the end edge is already glued, and there are holes for the hinges in the facades.

For kitchen

Before you start assembling furniture, you should prepare enough space so that it is convenient to lay out the disassembled furniture. By checking the performance of power tools, you will speed up the work being done. By spreading a film or packing cardboard on the floor, it will be possible to protect the surface from accidental scratching and complete the cleaning faster after the process is completed.

It is proposed to assemble furniture according to the nested scheme.

1. First, choose the details for the lower cabinets. Attached to a horizontal base vertical walls(for this it is better to use euro ties), holders for shelves are placed inside. In boxes that are not pulled out, but slide out smoothly, roller guides are mounted.
2. Installation of facades is done when laying semi-assembled products on the back wall. It will be more convenient for two to perform this operation: one person marks the places for the holes for the screws, and the second at this time holds the loose cover.
3. The last step will be fixing the handle. Fasteners are included in the kit, so it remains to drill holes and put the handle in place.
4. All constituent elements the set is set according to the level.

For living room, bedroom, nursery, study

Room furniture sets, as well as kitchen sets, are delivered in a separate package. This is convenient, because parts from different designs will not be confused with each other.

The process is shown on the example of one of the elements of furniture. The set consists of cabinets of different designs, cabinets, chests of drawers. A significant difficulty is the installation of a cupboard (this work is definitely not for beginners).

If you think that you are able to correctly “read” the diagrams and drawings of furniture assembly, are confident in your abilities, then you can proceed to independent work. But remember that this will void the warranty on the furniture.

a) Having estimated the time that it may take to assemble, add at least 30-50% more to it. For example, for a kitchen, depending on the degree of technical complexity, it may take from 5 hours to a couple of days. For beginners, it’s better to double-triple this value, because you have to understand every little thing.

b) Do you hope to borrow the missing tool from your neighbors? And if they don’t have it either or people won’t be at home in right time? Contact companies that offer power tool rentals.

c) Do-it-yourself furniture assembly is a protracted event. It is better to allocate time on the weekend, from 11 o'clock. Evening manipulations with a drill or screwdriver, which can drag on for several hours, are unlikely to contribute to building relationships with neighbors.

d) Having unpacked the box with a clerical knife along the glued adhesive tape, check the list of accessories and especially the fasteners according to the list. Partially, their absence will negatively affect the speed of work.

e) Two extra hands will not be redundant. Feel free to ask a family member, friend, or neighbor for help.

f) For drawers the manufacturer makes the required marks on the furniture parts. It is better to mount the attachment point of the movable mechanism before starting the assembly of the frame.

g) The edge side must be in the right place, otherwise you have to do it all over again. The situation may repeat itself if you have fixed similar details in the wrong place.

h) Glasses and mirrors, for the sake of safety, are placed on the products last. Assembling luxury furniture requires special knowledge and it is better to use the help of experienced craftsmen.

i) To tighten the confirmed bolts, a special key is put into the set at the factory. When there is a lot of such work to be done and you want to speed it up, it is reasonable to buy a hex bit for a power tool.

How to assemble a wardrobe or chest of drawers, kitchen or other furniture? This question is asked by every man who first encountered such a task. A man should be able to do everything and this is true, and if he does not know how to do something, then we will teach him!

How to properly assemble furniture, because there are a huge number of varieties. Sliding wardrobes, kitchens, chests of drawers are sometimes beyond the power to assemble even experienced master. Designs and complex installation often confuse. It will be easier if instructions are attached to the furniture.

How to properly assemble furniture

To carry out the assembly qualitatively, it is necessary to learn some rules. These rules are careful work with details, your own safety and correct sequence assemblies.

After delivery or purchase of furniture, make sure it is your furniture and whether it is your color. Check the complete set and complete unloading from the machine. If the furniture is disassembled (tables, cabinets, cabinets), then you need to determine the number of parts and boxes. After that, you can safely bring furniture into the house.

At home, you should check the complete set of furniture fittings. To properly assemble furniture, you need to free up space. If the furniture is large and massive, then the place of assembly should be in the room in which this furniture will be located.

Floor coverings before assembling furniture, cover with a blanket or other flooring so as not to damage the floor. You should remember about the safety precautions for assembling furniture, so that later you do not have to correct defects. And most importantly, prepare with which you will assemble.

Furniture assembly tools are divided into two types:

• assembly of a simple structure;
• assembly of complex furniture.

The assembly of a simple structure is carried out using:

• roulettes;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• drills for furniture assembly;
• hammer;
• wrenches.

For the assembly and installation of furniture of a more complex design or unusual furniture complex shape additional tools needed:

• jigsaw;
• a device for determining electrical wires;
• perforator for furniture assembly:
• crowns of different diameters;
• furniture stapler;
• various types of drills;
• level.

If you are not sure that you can assemble furniture or it requires a serious installation process, it is better to contact specialists.

How to assemble a chest of drawers

A chest of drawers is an indispensable piece of furniture in the interior. or the bedroom cannot be complete without it. A variety of materials and types of furniture allows you to save family budget. And you can also design a chest of drawers with your own hands, which will meet all your preferences.

In ancient times, a chest was used instead of a chest of drawers, but it was not very convenient. This was the reason for the appearance of such furniture as a chest of drawers. Today, a chest of drawers is considered universal and enough roomy furniture. It is used to store things, shoes, perfumes and cosmetics and other things.

How to develop a project and a drawing for assembling a chest of drawers with your own hands

Start developing a chest of drawers by choosing a place where it will stand. Measure the space, taking into account the placement of sockets and baseboards. not to disturb them full functioning. Then start sizing the chest of drawers. It is recommended to adhere to 800 mm in height and up to 1200 mm in width. These dimensions are considered optimal in assembling a chest of drawers with your own hands. When creating a chest of drawers with your own hands, carefully consider the choice of materials. Consider the following points:

• natural wood has an impressive weight;
• Chipboard or MDF is much lighter and cheaper.

Assembly is best done using a drawing. In our modern world it's very simple. If you are able to make the drawing yourself, then stock up on a ruler and a pencil. And if you want to simplify the task, then use the electronic program (Compass 3D or AutoCAD). An electronic drawing for assembling a chest of drawers simplifies the work and determines the size of each element of the chest of drawers.

The next step in assembling a chest of drawers with your own hands will be to determine the size of the parts, taking into account the gaps. Remember that the edge adds thickness. To prepare the rest of the parts, ask any wood chip company for help. If you have "golden hands", then use the disk and saw.

Mounting the case for assembling the chest of drawers

For installation we need:

• nails with a wide hat;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• screws for assembly.

We start by assembling the chest of drawers, connecting the back wall with nails. If you make a wall solid material if it doesn’t work or it’s not possible, then replace it with two pieces. You can connect them together with polymeric docking parts. To fix the parts, you need to use a furniture self-tapping screw by drilling a hole with a diameter of 4 mm in the edge of one fragment.
After that, we take the part of the next part and make a hole in it about 7 mm. Screws, on the front side of the chest of drawers, close with plastic overlays. Let's start attaching the top cover. We will do this with the help of steel corners, attaching them with self-tapping screws. The assembly of the chest of drawers is over!

Assembling chest of drawers

The chest of drawers consists of:

• facade;
• side walls.

The process of assembling drawers is more difficult than assembling the chest of drawers. In order not to get confused in the elements, number them and start assembling the chest of drawers.

Let's start assembling the chest of drawers by installing the bottom. To do this, you need to make cuts with a depth of 10 mm at the bottom of the walls. Fasten the front fragments with paired screws. To facilitate the movement of chest of drawers, install on inside walls roller strips. Apply glue to the plank and place it on the bottom of the chest of drawers. When it dries, you can insert the box into the frame.

The main assembly of the dresser is over, it remains to install the handles. You can easily attach them with screws. Be sure to pop out and check each drawer and its movement along the frame.

How to assemble a closet

Making a wardrobe with your own hands is a popular activity. It gained its popularity because the cabinet has no swing doors, it is possible to carry out hidden installation and the cabinet itself is very compact. When assembling a wardrobe, you will have to learn design, carpentry and engineering skills.

Design skill lies in the position of the cabinet shelves and the design of the entire cabinet. Having come up with the desired design in your head, transfer it to a piece of paper.

Calculation and cutting of material for assembling a wardrobe

Measure the width and height of the cabinet to calculate the dimensions of the remaining parts (partitions, shelves). Having calculated all the dimensions, draw out each cabinet detail. It is recommended to make shelves and partitions smaller when assembling the cabinet overall size cabinet for 2 sheets of chipboard or other material used. Standard chipboard is taken with a thickness of 16 mm.

Given 16 mm thickness, we put down the size of each part. This work is very painstaking. Therefore, check several times to get the cabinet of the correct design.

Now let's move on to trimming (front ends of chipboard). We mark on each figure the details of the cabinet edges, which we will paste over with special tape. This procedure is very expensive, so you need to determine the edges visible from the front side when assembling the cabinet. Having done this work, you can calmly breathe and take all the drawings and diagrams to a specialized place where you will be cut.

Making sliding doors when assembling furniture is very simple. With width, height and internal dimensions cabinets can be reported to the warehouse and they will calculate everything on their own. You will only have to choose in your closet.

Material for sliding doors when assembling a cabinet with your own hands:

• mirrors;
• Chipboard for cabinet assembly;
• plastic pseudo-mirrors.

What material for the door to choose is up to you.

How to assemble a built-in wardrobe with your own hands

It is absolutely not difficult to assemble a wardrobe by completing all the drawings. Need to stock up the right tools:
screwdriver;

• jigsaw;
• drill for confirmations;
• kit various kinds drills;
• stapler for cabinet assembly;
• furniture fittings.

We twist the main frame of the sliding wardrobe (sidewall, bottom and top). Connect them together with a hex bat. Next, we attach the inner boards. We drill 2 boards at once and screw in the confirmation. After assembling the cabinet box, close the back of the fiberboard frame with a stapler. You need to fasten every 10-15 cm.

To install the shelves, you need to drill 4 holes for the pins and put the shelf on them.

Mounting a sliding door when assembling a cabinet with your own hands

It is done simply. When unpacking the doors, locate the top and bottom rails. A flat narrow guide is the lower one, a voluminous one with wide grooves is the upper one. We fasten the top guide to the top of the cabinet, and the bottom one, respectively, to the bottom. Insert the sliding door and adjust.

To insert the doors, you need to get into the upper rollers of the guide, lift the door and install it on the bottom guide. To adjust the door when assembling the cabinet with your own hands, it is worth tightening the fixing and adjusting screws that are located at the bottom of the end.

Don't forget to adjust the stops. They are located in the bottom rail. The stops just need to be moved and the cabinet doors will not hit the body.

1. Main material: chipboard

Surprisingly, wood in its purest form is the lot of expensive "elite" furniture. In cabinet furniture, wood is almost never found.

The main material from which cabinet furniture is made is laminated chipboard (LDSP). Usually these are plates with a thickness of 16 mm. Still on sale sheets of laminated chipboard 10 mm and 22 mm thick. 10 mm laminated chipboard is used as a filling for the blind doors of sliding wardrobes, and 22 mm is used for shelves in bookcases where greater resistance to stress is required, and the usual 16 mm laminated chipboard can seriously sag under the weight of books.

Also, sometimes 22 mm parts are used as design elements of furniture products, bringing originality to the design (for example, on top of a regular 16 mm cabinet cover, you can put a protruding cover 22 mm thick more dark color). Such refinements are economically feasible only if mass production, since you always have to buy a whole sheet of chipboard for cutting. Usually, all parts of cabinet furniture (except doors and facades) are made of 16 mm chipboard.

Chipboard is sawn on special machines along guides. Of course, at home, you can saw something off with an electric jigsaw - but at the same time, the edges of the seam will be "torn", and the seam itself will probably wag from side to side. It is almost impossible to achieve a straight saw with a jigsaw.

2. Edges

Saw chipboard - is the most ugly and vulnerable place - moisture easily penetrates through it and the material swells and deforms. Therefore, it is recommended to cover all ends of chipboard with special edges. Several types of edges are known:

. ABS edge- an analogue of the PVC edge from another, more environmentally friendly plastic. In addition to environmental friendliness during disposal, other differences are more likely invented by marketers. It's not even for sale in our city.

. Wooden and veneered facades- will delight lovers of natural products. True, in the modern plastic world, such facades are quite expensive. Yes, and evil tongues claim that there are so many varnishes and impregnations in this wood that there is only one name from the wood. At the very least, manufacturing companies strongly recommend regular maintenance of such facades with special chemicals.

. Facades under enamel- painted facades. Their main drawback: the coating is very easily scratched, deformed, and is not resistant to chemicals. Previously, they were used only because of the saturated bright colors. With the advent of acrylic plastics on the market, the demand for painted facades has decreased significantly.

. Facades made of aluminum with glass- made in high-tech style. They are beautiful and modern, but difficult to manufacture and require non-standard fittings for fasteners, often installed simultaneously with the production of the facade.

4. Back walls and bottom of boxes.

Usually, the back walls of furniture, like the bottom of the drawers, are made of HDPE. At the same time, its front laminated side looks inside the drawer or cabinet. The HDF color is matched to the color of the HDF used. Sheet thickness is usually 3-5 mm.

At one time it was fashionable to put such a wall on brackets using furniture stapler. This is wrong - the staples hold for a limited time, and no matter how strong the structure seems to you immediately after assembly, after a few years it may well disperse under pressure or deformation. It is especially wrong to put the bottom of the drawers on the staples, which constantly experiences tear loads. So forget about the furniture stapler - it is applicable only in upholstered furniture.

Sometimes fiberboard is inserted into the groove- but for this technology, this groove needs to be milled, and at the same time, all dimensions of the product must be exactly up to the millimeter.

Sometimes the back walls and the bottom of the boxes are made of chipboard. It is practiced to create " stiffening ribs"in tall cabinets, and in those drawers where there will be a very heavy load (20 kg and above). The back wall of the cabinet can be equipped with one or more stiffening ribs from chipboard, and the rest of the space can be filled with HDPE.

5. Countertops

tabletop- a horizontal work surface on which people constantly work (cook food, eat, write).

Majority office tables and cheap options dining rooms are limited to a worktop of the same material as the table itself. It can be chipboard 16 mm or better 22 mm, chromed necessarily 2mm PVC edge.

For kitchens, special countertops are used. Usually they are a sheet of chipboard with a thickness of 28-38 mm, covered with plastic using postforming technology. This plastic is quite durable. If the cut of the tabletop is gray, this is ordinary chipboard, if it is blue-green, then moisture resistant. Correct kitchen worktops are equipped with a strip of silicone - the so-called " drip tray", which prevents spilled liquids from flowing down onto kitchen furniture.

The weak point of such countertops is the edges of the cuts. They are usually edged with melamine in the color of the tabletop when it is cut. But melamine is afraid of moisture, and often the edges become unusable after a year of operation. Therefore, for the ends of the table top, it is recommended to use a special aluminum profile, having previously thoroughly smeared the surface of the saw cut silicone sealant. There is also a profile for joining worktops at a right angle - without sawing them and fitting each other - such a profile is very convenient to use in corner kitchens.

It is not customary to make holes in the tabletop (they spoil the smooth surface of the table and then dirt clogs in them), so such a tabletop is usually screwed on from the inside self-tapping screws to horizontal struts. In this case, the screws should not be too long so as not to pierce the cover through.

Countertops made of natural or artificial stone . Products made of natural stone are very heavy and require additional care due to the porosity of the material. Artificial stone is devoid of these shortcomings. In addition, an artificial stone countertop can be given almost any size and profile. The only drawback of such countertops today is their price.

6. Location of parts

We have come to those sections that will form your final understanding of how to make cabinet furniture. So first let's talk about relative position details.

Detail- this is any element of cabinet furniture: bottom, cover, sidewall, back wall, facade, shelf. So, every detail can be nested, maybe overhead.

Consider this thesis on the example of two kitchen cabinets. One will stand on the floor (with legs) and the other will hang on the wall.

Floor cabinet:

As you can see from the figure, it is best when the operating voltage (and for a floor cabinet it is directed from the cover down) naturally transmitted through wooden details to the place of contact of the product with the support - on the legs of the cabinet (see diagram "correctly").

In the second, "wrong" version, the voltage is transmitted to confirmation(this is such a special furniture screw, we'll talk about them a little later) - and the effort will constantly try to pull it out of the wood for a break.

Second example: wall cabinet.

Here, the opposite is true: the force is applied to the bottom shelf by the things on it, and the attachment point of the cabinet is higher than the force application point. Natural way (joint wood boards) we will not transfer the force upward. Therefore, the voltage will necessarily be transmitted through the fittings.

If we make here the same construction as in the floor cabinet (see diagram "wrong") - all four confirms will experience a constant force pulling out from wood. Therefore, we choose the worst of two evils: it is better for the confirmers to experience the effort to break(see diagram "correctly").

At first glance, this seems complicated, but trust my experience: after the third designed and assembled product, you will already intuitively, without hesitation, determine where this or that part should be located.

7. Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware, which serve to connect furniture parts. Most often, such a connection is made at a right angle of 90 °. all modern types of furniture fasteners are very well described, with detailed description their advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a quick look at those with which we will not have to work.

. Eurovint (confirmed)- a special furniture screw. The most common fastening of cabinet furniture. Confirmate is especially well suited for beginners - since it does not require precise fitting of parts - you can drill a hole for it already "in place", during the assembly process of the product.

Have you noticed that self-tapping screws are almost never used to connect parts? That's right, in the furniture business they are replaced by confirmations. Due to the shape ideal for 16mm laminated chipboard, they have a significant large area threads and hold much stronger than self-tapping screws.

To drill holes for confirmations, it is required special drill- it was not easy to find this in our provincial town. In principle, if there is no such drill, it’s not scary: you can get by with three drills different diameter: for carving, neck and confirmat's cap.

Confirmations come in several sizes. Usually used 7x50. When drilling for confirmation, special attention should be paid to the perpendicularity of drilling - so that the drill does not “run away” and pierce the wall of the part to be drilled.

Confirmations are twisting screwdriver with hexagonal bit or manually special hex key. Confirmations made under a Phillips screwdriver are not the correct confirmations! You will never be able to tighten these screws all the way.

The main aesthetic drawback of confirmations is hats that remain flush, but still noticeable. To hide them use plastic plugs inserted into hats. The color of the plugs is selected in the color of chipboard.

. Eccentric couplers- the most correct modern look furniture fixture. Does not leave marks on the front side of the product, only on the inside. The main disadvantage is that it requires very precise drilling, including aligning the holes on both sides and limiting the drilling depth (so as not to drill through).

For drilling additives for eccentrics, a special tool is usually used. Forstner drill. It is realistic to do it manually - but it is very difficult, it is better to have a drilling machine.

If you collect furniture, the ends of which will not be put on public display, but will be hidden (for example, a kitchen cabinet or a wardrobe in a niche), then there is no point in bothering with eccentrics. Use confirmations.

8. Furniture fittings

More hinges can be adjusted in height and depth of planting. This allows you to more accurately align your locker door. There are also inset hinges - when, when the door is closed, the facade is recessed inside the cabinet (rarely used). There are a number of loops for glass doors, in which you can firmly clamp the glass without drilling.

Buy only quality products well-known manufacturers(From inexpensive, we can recommend Chinese Boyard) - so that you do not have problems with them in the future. Of the major global manufacturers - Austrian Bloom, but it is expensive and you still have to try to find it.

9. Drawers and their guides

There are many ways to make furniture drawers. The easiest way is to make the perimeter of the box (sidewalls, front and back walls) from chipboard. This method is described in detail and with illustrations. The only thing I disagree with the author is that instead of nails for attaching the bottom, I would use self-tapping screws.

If you want to beautiful facade, then it is screwed with screws to one of the sides of the box into the overlay, as shown in the diagram in section 5 (in this case, the role of the countertop will be played by the facade of the box).

But collecting the box is half the battle. The main thing is to make it open and close. That is, put it on the guides.

Drawer guides There are two types: roller and ball.

. Roller guides - usually white, attached to the bottom of the box. The box on such guides rides on two rubberized rollers, rumbles due to its unstable position, and at the point of maximum exit it strives to fall out of the guides from any sharp push. Such guides are bad in that a heavily loaded box will try to tip over from any position when it is extended more than halfway. The only advantage of such guides is the price: about 30 rub for a couple.

. Ball guides - or as they are commonly called "full extension guides". These guides are telescopic design capable of doubling its length. Inside, they contain several dozen balls (as in bearings), which ensures the box runs smoothly. The guides are rigidly fixed with self-tapping screws to both the cabinet and the drawer, which eliminates the possibility of tipping over and prevents the drawer from "going off the rails" regardless of the load and the speed of jerks.

The process of mounting the drawer on full extension ball bearings is well described. The price of such guides is approx. 100 rub per set. It's a shame to see when in the kitchen total cost more than 40 tyr, the manufacturer presses and installs roller guides, while saving 70 rubles. I want, you know, to take and strangle for such a swine attitude towards the buyer. So if you order a kitchen, immediately specify what type of guides the drawers will have.

. Metaboxes- a solution first proposed by an Austrian firm Bloom. The idea is to save the craftsman the need to attach rails to the drawer, and sell ready-made side walls, with built-in rails, holes for the facade and grooves for rear wall. Having bought a metabox, you just have to hang a facade on it, put in a back wall and a bottom (by the way, many metaboxes are designed for a bottom made of chipboard and not fiberboard).

Guides in metaboxes are roller. Accordingly, the metabox is not a full extension product. Blum metabox price: from 300 before 500 rub. Now many companies, including Chinese ones, produce products with the name "metabox", which has already become a household name. Here is a good article on calculating and assembling a metabox.

. Tandemboxes- a more technological solution of the same company. If the metabox rides on roller guides, then the tandembox rides on full extension ball guides. The number of balls in them is several hundred. Tandembox is usually completed automatic closer and an impact damper (BluMotion system) - which provides a surprisingly pleasant and soft closing of the drawer (always full closing) with one push.

For tall drawers, tandemboxes can be equipped with one or two additional stops. Manufactured tandem boxes white color and stainless steel. The latter, of course, are twice as expensive.

If you happen to be at a furniture show, stop by the Blum booth. You can’t even imagine how pleasant and high-quality the usual furniture fittings can be. But the tandembox costs accordingly: 1000-2000 rub per set.

10. Doors for wardrobes

The last thing worth talking about in our furniture educational program is wardrobes. In general, the kitchen and wardrobe are the most accessible and interesting for a beginner. furniture master areas of activity. Well, not counting, of course, bedside tables and shelves. Furniture for the living room and bedrooms usually requires a serious design approach, the use of non-standard or difficult-to-process materials: natural wood, tempered glass. With kitchens and wardrobes - everything is simple and clear.

The sliding wardrobe comes in two versions: with walls (side and back) and without them. the last option is just a part of the room (usually a niche) fenced off by sliding doors, inside which you can do whatever you want: shelves, drawers, hangers, and a bunch of other interesting things. Here are listed and given photos of the most common elements of filling wardrobes.

The most interesting and attractive mechanism in the sliding wardrobe is its sliding doors. You can’t skimp here, and you need to purchase only high-quality fittings - otherwise you will then suffer with falling and jamming doors so that you yourself won’t be happy. In our city, only sliding systems of a domestic company are sold from a decent Aristo, however, the reviews are quite worthy.

The sliding wardrobe usually contains two-three doors. Each door is a canvas enclosed in a special frame made of decorated aluminum profile. At the same time, the door does not have to be homogeneous - it can be created from two or more different canvases connected at any angle using a special profile.

Traditionally, the frame profile for sliding wardrobe doors is designed for a leaf thickness of 10 mm. For the manufacture of blind doors, 10 mm chipboard sheets are usually used. Special sheets can serve as a design alternative to it. rattan(decorative braid), bamboo, and even artificial leather (based on chipboard or MDF).

With the help of special silicone seals, 4 mm is easily inserted into the profile mirror. The main thing is that those who will cut mirrors for your cabinet do not forget to apply a special elastic film on its reverse side, which will hold the fragments in the event of an impact. Even if the child breaks mirror surface this will greatly reduce the risk of injury.

In order for the doors to move, guides are attached from below and above. The lower guides of the sliding wardrobe provide opening/closing of the door, the upper guides ensure the fixation of the door relative to the depth of the cabinet. The bottom rollers are usually made of plastic, equipped with a shock-absorbing spring and a height adjustment screw. The top rollers have a rubberized surface.

For more information on self-manufacturing cabinet furniture, I highly recommend reading the following resources:

. http://mebelsoft.net/forum/- Forum of professional furniture makers. Perhaps the largest and most popular resource dedicated to this topic.

. http://www.mastercity.ru/forumdisplay.php?f=19- City of masters, section "furniture and interior design". Those who try to do everything with their own hands gather here.

. http://mebelsam.com- Do-it-yourself furniture. Many articles and examples of a wide variety of technologies, not only cabinet furniture.

. http://www.makuha.ru- Furniture directory. Beginning portal, but already contains interesting articles.

Well, our little furniture educational program has ended. I hope you are now full of strength and determination to make cabinet furniture with your own hands. Add some imagination here in the choice of colors, edges, fittings and curly cuts- and you will get the opportunity to make the furniture that exactly what you need.

And it's not even about what happens cheaper and often better than in a store. And not that you no longer limit yourself to factory models. The fact is that things made by you, things in which you have invested your soul, your enthusiasm and skill - keep the warmth of your hands. I think it's important.

Kitchen furniture from a workshop or factory comes in a disassembled state. You can entrust the assembly to specialists, but few people are able to do better than the owner. Only those that work "as for themselves", and these are extremely rare. 'cause collect kitchen set many prefer on their own. It will take a decent amount of time, but the quality will be on top.

Tools

Before assembling a kitchen set, you need to assemble a tool for work. Simple tools are required, but they greatly speed up and simplify the work.

It's nice to have a plane builder or a laser level. With it, placing cabinets in the same plane is much easier.

Assembly of kitchen cabinets

The disassembled kitchen set is a set of planks of different sizes, a certain amount of fittings and a set of fasteners. From all this it is necessary to assemble cabinets. Usually there are mounted and floor. How to assemble a kitchen set, in what order - the choice is yours. It is more convenient for some masters to assemble them in pairs - the upper one, then the lower one, and install them like that. But there are two other ways: first collect all the upper ones, hang them on the wall, then all the lower ones. They do it and vice versa - they assemble and install the lower ones, then the upper ones. In general, any method is correct, do as you like.

The correct installation of the confirmation is in the middle

Assembly of wall cabinets

In any case, we begin to collect cabinets. An ordinary wall cabinet consists of two side panels, a top, a bottom, a back wall made of HDPE and two doors - a facade. The build order is:

Hinge installation

They finally hang the facades (doors) after they assemble and put everything in place, but put the hinges from the very beginning. They are mortise (considered more reliable) and overhead.

Types of hinges - mortise overhead

The attachment points are marked on the sidewall and the door with holes. We fold the sidewall and the door on flat surface(table or floor) close to each other, aligning the marks. We put the loops in place (they are included). Screw first to the sidewall, then to the facade. The door at the same time turns out to be slightly lower in level than the sidewall. Put a bar under it right size or a folded rag so that it is on the same level, then we fasten the loop.

We disassemble the loop itself (it consists of two detachable loops that are connected with a screw. We unscrew this screw, set the doors aside, and work further with the sidewalls.

Assembling the body

We attach the top and bottom to the sides. They are attached to confirmations - a special furniture fasteners, which comes with a hexagon head. If there is a corresponding bit, we put it on a screwdriver, if not, we work with a manual wrench.

The places for installing confirmations are marked on the outer part of the sidewalls. We fold the sidewall and the upper part, install the fasteners, then the bottom, and then the second sidewall.

We turn the “face” down, lay and align the sheet of laminated fiberboard, which serves as the back wall. It is nailed with small carnations or staples from. First, they are nailed in the corners, carefully aligning the edges, then in the middle of each side and further, dividing each section in half. As a result, the installation frequency is 1 nail/staple approximately 10 cm.

Installation of corners or hinges, shelf holders

The hinges on which wall-mounted kitchen cabinets are hung are different, they are installed in different ways. We'll talk more about them below. Shelf holders are also different in material and shape, but they are attached basically the same way - into the holes in the wall. Under them, holes are drilled in the sides. Sometimes we install plastic chopsticks (small hollow plastic cylinders) in them, hammer them in by lightly tapping with a furniture hammer, then we put shelves stops in them. But most metal stops (namely, these are probably needed in kitchen cabinets) are simply placed in the hole.

Actually everything, how to assemble a hinged Kitchen Cabinet you know. For a visual demonstration, watch the video. Floor cabinets with shelves without drawers are assembled in the same way, only first legs are installed on the bottom and top part- this is a countertop, and it is common to all cabinets and is placed after all floor cabinets are installed and fastened.

Assembling a cabinet with drawers

We continue to collect the kitchen set with our own hands. Now the most difficult moment is cabinets with drawers. General order work like this: install hinges, bottom and back wall. The top-tabletop is placed after all the cabinets are assembled and fastened together with ties. There are more features - you need to attach drawer guides to the sidewalls. Go.

Installing the legs

Before assembling the kitchen set, legs are installed further to the bottom. You can install the legs even after the frame is assembled, but twisting a heavy nightstand is not very easy. In any case, it is best if they are adjustable - the floor is not always perfectly flat. With adjustable legs, it is possible to set them so that the load is redistributed to all legs. On the small cabinets- up to 80 cm long - put 4 stops, more than 80 cm 6 reference points are needed.

If the cabinet has a partition, we place the legs under it. If there is no partition - in the middle. 5-8 cm recede from the edges, screwed onto self-tapping screws 15 mm long (with a chipboard thickness of 18 mm). In most finished furniture, under the legs there is also a countersink - holes of small diameter. Align the slots in the legs with the holes, install the screws.

Installation of rails and assembly for drawers

On the sides of the lower cabinets there are markings for the installation of guides (they are included). For their fastening, an M6 * 13 euro screw is used. We set the required number of guides on both sidewalls.

The boxes are assembled with screws 4*45. Guides are installed first. Depending on the design, they can be mounted on the walls of the box or on the lower edge of the sidewall. If there are markings (holes) on the wall, then they are placed on the sidewalls. If not - to the end. To be sure, look at the assembly instructions. There should be an installation process in the pictures.

After the guides are connected, the sidewalls are connected to the back wall, then the front wall is installed, then the bottom. Before installing the bottom, check the diagonals. They must match to the millimeter. The bottom is fastened with nails or staples.

Assembling the body

The assembly of the case is already familiar: we attach the lid to the sidewalls, then the lower part with the legs. We put the cabinet in place, twist the legs so that top cover ended up on desired height and was horizontal. We check the horizon with a bubble or laser level. Then install the covers.

Features of the assembly of the corner cabinet

The main feature is that in budget kitchen sets the bottom consists of two parts (to reduce costs). If this cabinet provides for the installation of a sink, the back wall is almost absent, but there are several couplers-collets that give rigidity to the structure. Otherwise, everything is the same as when assembling a conventional cabinet with doors.

How to hang cabinets in the kitchen

Even before you assemble a kitchen set, you need to purchase for fastening wall cabinets canopies and intersectional furniture screeds. Let's start with awnings, they are different types, let's talk about them.

You already know how to assemble a kitchen set, you need to figure out how to install it in place. Hanging kitchen cabinets are mounted on the wall. They are fastened with furniture canopies. They come in the form of metal plates with holes for fasteners, but there are more complex structures. Cheaper ones are ordinary metal plates. They can be different shapes, are made of ordinary or galvanized steel.

simple awnings

The most common option (top left) is a plate with two small holes for fasteners and one large one (a hook or a screw head installed in the wall is inserted into it). It is installed on the end of the sidewalls - on the right and left. With a heavy load, this type of canopy can break out, since the fasteners are at a small distance from each other and the chipboard can fall apart. More reliable option below - large quantity fasteners, but the risk is still there.

The other two types of furniture canopies are more reliable, since one of the screws will also be installed in the cabinet lid, that is, the load will be distributed over a larger area.

The corners performed well. One edge of this canopy is attached through the cover. Do through hole, a bolt with a washer is installed at the bottom, tightened with a nut from above (also with a washer). They are installed at a distance of 5-10 cm from the edge, if a large load is expected, you can put three or four pieces, which is impossible with previous models.

Kitchen cabinets are hung on corners with lining - to compensate for the difference in the thickness of the apron

The common disadvantage of all these mounts is that they are not adjustable. As hung, so be it. There is no way to move away from the wall or towards the wall. If protrudes above the plane. walls, you have to mount a bar on the wall or select a lining for each fastener (a piece of plywood, a piece of wood, etc.). The second drawback is that a separate hook or dowel must be installed under each canopy. Not very comfortable.

Adjustable

A more complex and expensive canopy consists of a plastic body, metal canopy and a system of adjustments that allows you to move it forward / backward and up / down. These canopies are attached to the side walls of the cabinet from the inside, a small hole is cut in the back wall. Paired with these canopies is a mounting rail or bar. It is attached to the wall, hooks of canopies cling to its upper ledge. Installing and removing wall cabinets with this mounting system is very simple, and they have a sufficient “load capacity” of 20-50 kg per canopy (depending on the model and manufacturer).

How to install a kitchen set

As already mentioned, the order of installation of lockers is arbitrary. You can first hang the top then the bottom or vice versa. It doesn't matter. The order of installation is important: they always start from the corner. How even this first cabinet will be exposed will determine how easy further installation will go.

The mounting height of wall cabinets depends on the height of the "users", but not lower than 45 cm from the level of the countertop. When hanging cabinets on the wall, mark a horizontal line. It can be drawn using a bubble or water level, but the easiest way is to deploy a plane at the required height using a level or a plane builder. The top edge of the mounting plate is set along this line or the cabinets are leveled when mounted on conventional canopies.

The task is both simple and difficult at the same time - to set the cabinets so that they are on the same level, and their walls are vertical and horizontal. In this case, there will be no problems during operation.

Because kitchen furniture consists of separate cabinets, they are fastened together. There are two options - install, then fasten, or fasten first, then hang. The second option is possible with the presence of assistants - even hanging two fastened cabinets alone is not an easy task.

Fasten the cabinets together with the help of intersection screeds. They are of different diameters and different lengths - under chipboard different thickness. On one wall you need at least two screeds. They are placed in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe loops - a little lower or a little higher. Two cabinets are placed in the same plane, their walls are fastened with clamps, a through hole is made - according to the diameter of the screed into which the fasteners are installed, it is tightened with a screwdriver or a screwdriver.

How to install a countertop on a kitchen set

To assemble the kitchen set completely, you need to install the countertop. It is fixed after the cabinets are pulled together. Installed on the walls steel corners, which fix the countertop. For subtleties in the processing of ends and cutouts for the sink, see the video.

How to process slices of laminated chipboard worktops, see the following video. It is useful for those who want to assemble a kitchen set according to all the rules.

Video on assembling kitchen furniture

If you decide to get new furniture, then it is imperative to solve one important point, this is the installation and assembly of the purchased furniture.

In this case, there are two ways to solve this problem. The first is to assemble it yourself, but in the second case, it is to turn to the services of qualified specialists.

At the same time, any choice has its positive and negative aspects. So, as an example, we can cite the situation: when a person independently started to assemble furniture without having any idea about the assembly, this can only do harm. In addition, it will take a lot of time, and there is also a chance that the build quality will be very low.

However, if you still use the services of qualified furniture assemblers, then you will have to pay a significant amount of money for such a service, but the build quality will be at its best. high level and you will also save a lot of personal time.

However, the vast majority of people, in order to save Money trying to assemble furniture on their own. Therefore, this article will be clear and detailed guide for those who want to assemble the furniture themselves.

General rules

Before proceeding with the assembly, it is necessary to clearly and strictly follow all the rules and recommendations.

This is important, because in this case the furniture assembly process will not seem like a chore to you, but on the contrary, it will seem interesting and interesting to you. an exciting activity. Therefore, on initial stage it is necessary to prepare the necessary tool that may be needed in the process of work.

At the same time, special attention must be paid to parts of furniture where there is glass or a mirror, on the surface of which various scratches and other defects are categorically unacceptable.

Also in without fail there should be a detailed assembly instruction, and the necessary fittings and elements for fasteners.

As a rule, the seller's representative will personally hand over the fittings and fasteners to you, but it is not uncommon for fasteners and fittings to be placed in a package with furniture.

After that, you need to carefully study the instructions and clearly plan your next steps during assembly. This is necessary so that everything is visible and everything is in such a sequence as required by the assembly instructions.

List of required tools

To make the assembly process simple and fast, you need to prepare all the necessary tools. The assembly process itself is a very complex and painstaking operation that requires patience and attention. So, for assembly you will need:

• measuring instruments (tape measure, caliper, angle, ruler)
• screwdriver
• screwdrivers (cross and normal)
• of course you can't do without a hammer
• hexagon set
• you will also need a set of wrenches

For a more complex set of furniture, you may additionally need an additional tool:

• perforator with a set of drills
• electric jigsaw with a set of saw blades different sizes
• and of course building level and a pencil

Types of fasteners for furniture

For a more general and complete understanding of the assembly, you will need to study a little and familiarize yourself with all the necessary fasteners. And there are several types of such elements. Let's consider them.

The most common is a universal screw having a size of 3.5x16. As a rule, such screws are not included in the main kit along with furniture, it is sold separately.

Its main purpose is to fasten the rear wall furniture set, you can also fix the hinges and handles. With this screw, you can fix any guides for various sliding shelves.

Corner. This type of fastener is designed to fasten the corner pieces of furniture together. Such elements are usually made of metal, but there are also made of plastic.

Confirmed. It is a universal fastener fastener, which fastens all the main parts of the furniture together. Confirmat is considered one of the most reliable fasteners. It is screwed into a special hole designed for it.

It has many different sizes, but the most common size is 6.4x50 mm. To make it convenient to work with the confirmation, you must use a hex wrench of the required size.

So, the main rule when assembling furniture is strict and strict adherence to the instructions that come with the furniture set. Next, you need to draw up a rough plan for the assembly process.

After that, you can proceed to the assembly process itself. As a rule, the assembly process will not cause serious problems. The thing is that many people buy furniture that is not the most expensive. price category, which is made mainly of chipboard. Such material is very simply and easily fastened using a furniture confirmation.

To mount the shelves, you will need to make additional markings, on which special points are applied for the hole where the fasteners will be screwed. As an additional fastener, it is permissible to use corners made of plastic or metal.

The rear part of the furniture set is fastened with nails. small size, or use a regular furniture stapler.

Therefore, the assembly of furniture requires special attention and patience. Here you need to do everything consistently and competently without missing all the nuances. Of course, certain difficulties may arise during the assembly process, but if you are determined to assemble the furniture yourself, then you will overcome all difficulties.

Photo of correctly assembled furniture