Do-it-yourself construction of a log house from a bar. How to make a log cabin for a bath from a log and timber with your own hands - a detailed guide. Video - Beam connections

We propose to build the simplest and cheapest, but quite comfortable small bath, the size of which allows you to place it anywhere on the site, and available technology and the low price makes it possible for everyone, if desired, to have such a bathhouse. The dimensions of the building are only 3 × 3 meters, the height is 2 meters, the bath has a combined steam room and washing room with a stove and a rest room. All construction works should be made according to requirements.

For a small bathhouse, we choose cheap, but quite satisfactory materials in terms of quality. What needs to be prepared?

Table of building materials

materials	Quantity	Illustration
Cement M400	150 kg
Sawn timber 150×150 mm	3.5 m3
	0.3 m3
	25 m / p.
	0.5 m3
	0.3 m3
	500 pcs.
	10 m2
	30 pcs.

Nails and screws of various sizes, metal corners for truss systems, building fittings, windows and doors. Windows and doors can be made on your own (cheap, but time-consuming, and quite difficult) or you can buy ready-made ones (quick and cheaper in the end). You will need insulation, electrical cables and fittings.

We specially provided all the materials with a margin. Firstly, in every construction, unproductive waste is indispensable. Secondly, lumber and hardware will always come in handy on the farm. There is an opportunity and desire - you can make a supply of water, plums. There is no desire or opportunity - the bath will “function” anyway, only water will have to be carried into the boiler installed in the furnace (for hot) and into the barrel (for cold) with buckets. We choose the simplest option - engineering plumbing systems we will not do.

Stages of building a bath

For ease of understanding the technology, we will divide the entire process of building a log house into several stages:

• foundation;
• log cabin;
• roof;
• floors;
• window and door openings;
• electrical wiring;
• sheathing of external and internal walls.

Foundation

We choose columnar concrete.

Step, No.	Description
	We make markings on the ground. In plan, the dimensions of the bath are 3 × 3 meters, the distance between the columns is 1.5 meters. The partition between the rooms is not load-bearing, it is not necessary to make a foundation under it. Drive in the pegs around the perimeter and pull the ropes between them. On the ropes, mark the position of the intermediate posts.
Step 2	Dig holes 50–60 cm deep, approximately 40 cm wide, make a sand cushion 15–20 cm thick at the bottom.
Step 3	If the earth is clayey, there is no need to make formwork, pour concrete directly into the pits. Allow the concrete to set for approximately two weeks.
Step 4	Mark the location of the stove, according to our project, it will be located between the combined steam room with a washing room and a rest room - this arrangement will allow heating two rooms at once. Under the furnace, you need to make a foundation deeper, preferably to the depth of soil freezing. But if the oven is not very complex and massive, then a depth of 1 m is enough, make a sand cushion 25 ÷ 30 cm thick. If you are still afraid that in winter the foundation can “undermine” - put it around the perimeter of the pit foam boards 2 ÷ 3 cm thick. They will take on the forces of swelling, the foundation will remain motionless under any climatic conditions. How to lay the stove is a big and interesting topic, a separate article is needed to consider it.
Step 4	We recommend not to pour them, but to wall them out of concrete blocks with dimensions of 20 × 30 × 60 mm. First, slightly level the concrete at the base, use a hydraulic level and a cement-sand mortar for this. Next, put the last column, using cement-sand mortar align in height and put intermediate posts. At the same time, “pull up” the foundation under the stove with blocks, it should be higher than the posts to the height of the beams, floor beams and floorboards.

Pillar foundation (with the first crown)

Binding and frame

There are many different options for connecting the beams (see photo), we will use the simplest ones: in the corners in the paw, and the end connections in half a tree without a trace.

Step 1. Once again we check the distance between the columns, if there are problems, we trim it a little.

Step 2. It is highly desirable to treat the first crown (and preferably two) with antiseptic agents. We lay them on two or three layers of roofing material. We mark the position of window and door openings on the first crown. We put the first row, we must fasten the dowels in the corners, it is advisable to put intermediate dowels.

In the photo - waterproofed columns and the first crown laid

Prices for roofing material

ruberoid

Step 3 Lay the beams of the lower floor, the distance between them is 1.2 ÷ 1.5 meters, the connection is half a tree without a trace. Be very careful about this stage, it will be very difficult, and often impossible, to correct the mistakes made. You have to take it apart and start over. Corners can not be cut, for a small bathhouse this is not necessary, just place the ends of the timber in these places in a checkerboard pattern.

Step 4 For interventional insulation, you can use modern tape heaters or traditional tow. With a tape, of course, it is easier and faster to work. Each crown must be checked according to its spatial position.

Step 5 Through the row we install wooden or metal dowels, the distance between them is about a meter. In the corners of window and door openings, dowels should be placed at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the edge.

Nagel - photo

It is very important - drill the hole for the dowel strictly vertically, the dowel must enter it with a gap. Otherwise, during natural shrinkage and shrinkage rows of the bath can sag. The dowel must hold 1÷2 rows of logs.

Step 6. Install ceiling beams. You need to put them, not reaching two rows to the end of the log house. The approximate height of the bath is two meters, but if you get a little more or a little less, there is nothing to worry about, this is not critical. Ceiling beams are sawn into half a tree without a trace, for our small bath it is enough to install two ceiling beams.

Step 7 Lay the top two rows of timber.

Important - they need to be fixed with dowels very firmly, the dowels must enter the holes with force. This is done in order to rafter system did not “push apart” the crowns - the last row will serve as a Mauerlat.

Step 8. Lay a temporary ceiling, use any boards for this, grab them only in a few places, after completing the work on the roof they are removed.

Video - Bath from a bar

Video - Beam connections

The main task in the construction of any building from a bar is to bring it under the roof as quickly as possible, all subsequent work can be done slowly. We will go that way as well.

Roof

There are two options: double slope or single slope. For a 3 × 3 bath, you can use the simplest option - a single slope.

If you settled on this option, then the ceiling must be done immediately. For a bath, it must be insulated, you can choose mineral wool (much more expensive and more difficult) or polystyrene foam (it will cost less and faster). Let's dwell on a simple option - foam insulation. He is not afraid of moisture, for him there is no need to use various steam and hydrobarriers.

Prices for foam insulation

styrofoam PSB insulation

Insulation must be installed in several stages:

• nail to ceiling beams bottom edged boards, 20 mm thick enough;
• lay foam boards on them. Lay them as tightly as possible, do not allow gaps. Styrofoam is perfectly cut with a special carpenter's knife for a ruler. During the marking period, provide for dimensions of 1 ÷ 1.5 cm more - the foam will shrink during installation, the insulation will become airtight;
• lay any boards on top of the beams, these can be various segments, slabs, etc. The main requirement for them is to withstand the weight of people during the arrangement of the roof. After the roofing work is completed, no one else will walk on the roof.

If the roof is gable, then make a temporary ceiling, and insulation can be done later. Is everything ready? Okay, let's build the roof.

№№	Illustration	Description and explanations
Step 1.		Check the vertical position and dimensions of the top crown. The dimensions are normal - excellent, there are significant horizontal deviations - not a problem, we will align the horizontal with rafters.
Step 2		Determine the slope angle. We recommend an inclination angle of approximately 20°. More important point- in which direction will it drain rainwater, take into account the features of the site, location entrance doors and features of existing buildings.
Step 3		Place an emphasis on the rafters at the calculated height. Easy to do - install vertical supports from bars of a given height, put a horizontal bar on them. The distance between the supports is approximately 1.5 meters. The design can be assembled without sawing, it is enough to use metal corners and self-tapping screws. In order for the stop to withstand angular forces, fix it with corner boards to the floor beams.
Step 4		Measure the length of the rafters, taking into account the overhang. For our case, 3.2 meters is enough. For rafters, use boards 50 × 100 mm, 6 pieces are enough for a 3 × 3 meter bath.
Step 5		Install the extreme rafters, pull the rope between them and put all the rest along it. For fixing to the beams, it is more reliable to make notches; if you do not have the desire or skill, use metal corners.
Step 6		As roofing we chose ondulin - one of the cheapest and fairly high-quality materials. It is not worth using various advertised hydrobarriers. First, if you lay the roofing material correctly, there will be no leaks. Secondly, if they are, then no barriers will help: they will sag under the weight of water and tear over time.
Step 7		Crate. Ondulin is in many ways similar to ordinary asbestos slate, the difference is less physical characteristics on the perception of vertical forces. This means that the crate should be laid more often, each sheet of ondulin should rest on four slats. The distance between the slats is 35 ÷ 40 cm. You can use narrow ones instead of slats unedged boards, they almost do not differ in cost, but during nailing ondulin there is less chance that the nail will “go nowhere”.
Step 8		Carefully align the first row, do not rush to immediately arrive sheets, it is advisable for beginners to lay out the entire row and check its position, and only then pick up a hammer and nails. Ondulin can be fastened with ordinary slate nails, fixing is performed in the upper wave. The lower the slope angle, the greater the overlap of sheets should be. In our case, the sheets should overlap by about ten centimeters. Be careful not to overdo it with the hammering force, do not damage the wave. There is a desire - install a drainage system.
Step 9		Board the spaces between the rafters and the bath wall from the side of the ramp elevation with boards, install wind boards.

Everything, urgent work is done, the log house can be left for the winter. During this time, the bath will shrink, the relative humidity will stabilize to natural values. If there is a desire to wash faster in your own bathhouse, continue construction work.

For a small bath, it is not necessary to install lags. The distance between the floor beams is within one meter, take thirty boards, they will not sag.

An important note - do not press the floorboards with great effort, they may swell when wet.

It is highly desirable to make a small clone of the floor towards the steam room rack for water drainage. You can install a grate in this place, or you can leave it like that - the water will still find cracks and leave. There are no special water outlets. Firstly, columnar foundations allow water to soak into the ground without problems. Secondly, a small bath means a small amount of water. To tilt the floor, put wooden linings on the floor beams, make the floor slope small, suit 2÷3°.

Video - How to make a floor with insulation in the bath

Wiring

The main requirement is to strictly follow the provisions of the PUE (Rules for the installation of electrical equipment). Let's give some practical advice.

Video - Wiring a bath

Video - Lighting in the bath

It is difficult to make windows and doors on your own, you need not only to have experience, but also special equipment and machines. It is much more convenient to buy finished products, including metal-plastic ones. To install them, you need to perform several sequential operations.

Step 1. It is necessary to align the existing openings in size; during the laying of the log house, no one cut each beam. Mark the linear dimensions of the openings on the wall and cut off the ends of the bars protruding beyond the dimensions with a gasoline or electric saw.

Step 2 From boards 50 × 150 mm, make boxes for windows and doors. It is not necessary to collect them into a spike, it is enough to drive ordinary nails along the ends. It is very important - leave a distance of 3 ÷ 4 centimeters between the upper timber and the box for shrinkage of the log house. No more, the bath has a low height.

Step 3. Insert the prepared boxes into the openings and fix them with nails or self-tapping screws. Insulate the gap at the top of the box, you can use tow or mounting foam.

Video - Features of preparing openings in a house from a bar before installing windows / doors

Video - Casing, window openings in a wooden house

Windows and doors are inserted in the usual way. Now you can start lining the internal and external walls.

Let's start with the internals. For a steam room and a washing room, only natural lining should be used; for a rest room, you can use any other materials, from plywood or OSB to plastic lining. We will consider the sheathing technology using the lining as an example, it is easier to work with all other materials.

This is an important operation that requires great care. For the frame, use slats 20 × 50 mm, make preliminary markings. The wall must be flat, all large bulges must be eliminated.

Step 1. Nail the extreme slats under the level at the corners, pull a rope between them and install the remaining slats along it, the distance between them is 40 ÷ 50 cm.

Step 2. Check the distance between the floor and ceiling at the corners of the bath. If there is a difference, eliminate it with the help of the first and last rows of lining. Leave small gaps (1÷2 cm) between the lining, floor and ceiling. The cracks will be covered with skirting boards. Nail ceiling plinths (baguettes) to the lining, and not to the ceiling, otherwise, during fluctuations in the dimensions of the walls, deformation of the skin is possible.

Step 3. To fix the lining, use nails 1.5 ÷ 2 cm long, you need to drive them into the groove of the lining.

Fastening the lining with a kleimer

For outer skin you can use any materials, the stages of work are normal. If the bath is small and cheap - choose inexpensive materials. Modern building technology allow them to make beautiful and with good quality. Windows and doors are finished with platbands.

Finish direction	Illustration	Basic information
vertical		The vertical fastening of the panels has a big drawback - the boards warm up unevenly along the length, which negatively affects their service life. Vertical cladding is optimally suited for steam rooms operated mainly in conditions of high temperature and low air humidity, i.e. in sauna mode. To ensure more efficient air circulation in the space between the insulation and the lining, several holes are usually drilled in the skin.
		In the case of a horizontal arrangement, the temperature deformations of the lining material will be much less noticeable. Horizontally oriented trim allows you to visually expand a small steam room. At horizontal mount panels behind them will provide more efficient air circulation - in this situation, the skin will be attached to a vertically oriented frame, as a result of which the gap will also be vertical. In addition, with this orientation of the frame, it will be much more difficult for rodents to get into the space behind the skin. Horizontal lining is attached much faster and easier than vertical. Important! If you decide to orient the trim panels horizontally, make sure that the groove "looks" down.

Video - Do-it-yourself bath from a bar

All photos from the article

How to fold a log house from a bar with their own hands is known, probably, by a few. In fact, this task, although large-scale, is still quite feasible. With minimal skills and the involvement of sufficiently qualified assistants, the task can be dealt with fairly quickly.

Naturally, in order for the result to meet your expectations, all stages of work - from the choice of material to finishing - should be carried out in strict accordance with the technology. So it is advisable to study the tips below very carefully.

Material selection

Making log cabins from a bar with your own hands begins with the development of a project and the choice of material. And if we leave the building plan to your discretion, since everything depends on specific wishes, then it is quite possible to give a number of general recommendations regarding the timber.

All blanks used for the construction of log cabins are divided into several groups. This division depends on the profile of the product, its structure, as well as on the moisture content.

The difference in the functional parameters of these materials is also very significant:

• even parts that are sawn from logs in the shape of a square or rectangle are cheaper, but do not provide proper tightness when connecting crowns. So if you want to get maximum thermal insulation walls even without finishing - choose a profiled beam with special locks on the connecting surfaces;

Note!
Some models of profiled timber even have a special selection for laying interventional insulation.
The use of this thermal insulation technology significantly increases the level of energy saving of the wall.

• as for the structure, the most common is the solid material. However, when drying, long beams can be deformed, therefore, sometimes a beam glued from lamellas with multidirectional wood fibers is used for construction. Of course, the price of such products will be higher, but by choosing glued blanks, we practically guarantee that their geometry will remain unchanged;

• according to the liquid content, a bar of natural humidity, air drying and chamber drying . The first is the cheapest, but at the same time it shrinks a lot, so the log house must stand for at least a year before finishing. That is why, to speed up construction, they usually use blanks that have been dried in the open air or in special chambers.

Any of these combinations can be successfully used to build a log house. And yet in recent times craftsmen prefer one-piece profiled products that have undergone air drying. According to most experts, it is this raw material that has the optimal combination of cost and operational parameters.

Log building technology

Lower junction

Since our article deals with the assembly of a log house from a bar with our own hands, we will not dwell on the technologies for arranging the foundation. We only note that a relatively small mass of structures allows them to be erected on shallow foundations (tape and columnar), as well as on pile foundations made of wood, metal or concrete.

After the foundation is completed, it is necessary to start assembling the crowns.

Here, the most important point will be the installation of the lower crown, which is in direct contact with the base and takes all the weight loads:

1. To protect the walls from moisture, we lay two layers of roofing material or a special waterproofing membrane on the foundation.
2. From a beam thicker than the one that will be used to build walls, we assemble the lower crown. We connect the corners into half a tree and fix them with steel bolts or brackets.
3. We impregnate the wooden structure with used engine oil, hot mastic or hard-to-wash antiseptics.
4. We lay the crown on the foundation and fix it with anchors with a diameter of 10 mm or more.

Advice!
Sometimes a thick (30-40 mm) larch board impregnated with a waterproofing compound is laid under the crown.
This board acts as a moisture barrier, and if necessary, after 10-20 years it can be replaced, and this task is much easier than dismantling the flashing crown.

1. We attach the logs for the floor to the lower crown. This can be done either with the help of cuttings, or using metal plates.

crowns

So, the link between the walls and the foundation is ready, now let's figure out how to build the structure itself:

1. At the first row of bars, we cut off the profile on the lower edge, forming a perfectly flat plane. We lay the parts on the crown crown and fix it with dowels for a wooden beam.
2. We place the next rows in such a way that the locks of the profiles are combined with a minimum gap. To do this, we upset each row with blows of a heavy mallet.
3. Between the crowns we lay a tape seal made of jute fabric.

The main trick at this stage is the correct installation of dowels - wooden cylinders made of birch or other hardwood:

1. We drill holes in the laid crown in increments of 100-150 cm. The depth of the nest for the dowel should be 1.5 times the height of the beam, the diameter should be equal to or slightly less than the diameter of the dowel itself.
2. We cut the wooden rod so that its length is 20-30% less than the depth of the nest. This supply of free space is needed for unhindered shrinkage.

1. We drive the dowels into the nests with the help of a mallet. At the same time, we make sure that the fasteners enter the hole tightly, but without undue effort, otherwise there is a risk of shrinkage cracks when the crown is stuck on the dowel.
2. We deepen the top of the dowel by 10-30 mm relative to the upper plane of the beam.

Note!
If we make a log house of a well with our own hands from a bar, i.e. we are building a small structure, then the dowels can only be installed at the corners, or even completely replaced with metal nails of sufficient length.

Docking bars

The main trick when assembling a log house with your own hands is the joining of parts at the corners and when building up. There are many methods for such docking, but in the table below we describe the most used:

Method name	Characteristic
Longitudinal extension
Half a tree	Samples are made on the joined parts, the size of which corresponds to half the height of the beam. The connection is additionally reinforced with staples or nails.
On the thorn	A spike is formed at the end of one beam, a groove is formed at the end of the other. When docking, the spike is driven into the groove with little effort, which prevents horizontal displacement.
On the key	Symmetrical grooves are cut out at the ends, into which, after docking, a key is hammered - a bar of.
To the castle	Long cuts are formed at the edges of the parts - oblique or straight. On the sections, locks are made in the form of symmetrically located protrusions and recesses. The presence of locks does not allow the bars to move along the length.
Corner felling with residue
Into the bowl	In the upper part of the beam, a selection is made that repeats the contours of the lower profile. The next crown fits into this sample.
Into the hood	The connection design is similar, but the selection is made at the bottom, and the crown is pressed against the lower beam under its own weight.
In ohryap	Symmetrical cuttings are formed with a depth of 1/4 of the beam section, after which the parts are connected according to the lock principle.
Corner felling without residue
butt	The bars simply move tightly towards each other and are fixed with dowels. The connection is not very reliable, in addition, it lets in a draft.
Half a tree	Samples are made of the same dimensions as when building a beam, but docking is carried out at an angle of 900.
On the key	Rectangular or trapezoidal grooves are cut out at the junction of the parts. After assembling the crown, a key is driven into the common groove, which plays the role of a connecting element.
In a warm corner	This connection method is the most time-consuming, but at the same time very effective. On one of the surfaces we form a groove, on the other - a spike with a length of at least 1/2 of the beam width. The most effective docking with trapezoidal connecting elements - the so-called "dovetail".

wall decoration

After we complete the construction of the log house, it needs to be allowed to stand. This is done so that in the process of drying the tree is completely deformed, and the linear dimensions of the structure return to normal - otherwise, along with the walls, the finish, and the installed windows, etc. will be deformed.

After the alignment is completed, we begin the finishing process:

1. We clean all cracks and cracks in the bars from sawdust and debris. If necessary, cracks can be expanded, limiting their spread.

1. We carry out caulking of cracks, hammering moss, tow or jute cords into the cavity.
2. We also caulk the cracks from the inside, ensuring maximum tightness of the walls.
3. We clean the surface of the bars with a grinder, at the same time opening the pores in the wood, removing dirt and cutting off excess caulking.
4. We carry out moisture protection treatment using antiseptic impregnations.

This completes the work on the log house itself, and we get the opportunity to proceed to the arrangement of the interior of our house.

Conclusion

Of course, this story about how to make a log cabin with your own hands from a bar contains only a list of the main operations. To master this technique thoroughly, you will need not only theoretical training, but also practice, so you should study the video in this article in without fail: at least you will have an idea of ​​the scale of the planned work!

One of the oldest building structures wooden frame– is now confidently returning to individual construction. The reason is not only the prestigious appearance of log buildings: a log house breathes very well - in summer it is not hot in it, in winter it is warm without additional insulation, the humidity is kept optimal. Putting a log house with your own hands is a rather difficult task., but feasible for a hardworking and attentive beginner, and saving Money at the same time, compared with a custom-made log house, it can be 2-3 times. But no less important is the fact that the service life of a home-made log house can exceed 100 or even 200 years, while the standard for chopped building structures is 40 years; really the best typical log cabins cost 50-70 years. Reason - to put a log house for several generations, you need to observe a lot of subtleties in your work about which this article is written; they will also help to extend the life of a typical log house and make it more resistant. Good carpenters most often know them, but not every millionaire can afford to pay for such painstaking work. And with your own hands, for yourself, it will cost only about a year of extra time: before the construction continues, the correct original log house must stand from heat to heat through the winter.

Prerequisites

Not only before the start of work - before all thoughts about them, you need to clearly understand certain rules and apply them to your own conditions. After that, the material is selected - a wild log, rounded, timber - and the actual construction technology.

Bar, cylinder or savage?

Dimensional sawn timber is commercially available up to 12 m long. But edged 3- or 4-edged timber can be spliced ​​in length (see below), so a log cabin on a normally buried foundation can, in principle, be very large, at the top left in fig. below. A profile bar for a log house is quite expensive, but it is sold in ready-made kits for the house, baths, etc. (see the figure on the right), which are often accompanied by standard project. Its approval passes without problems, and the log house itself can only be assembled according to the attached instructions and let it stand for weight shrinkage for the time indicated there. The real service life of a house made of such a bar will be 60-70 years, and with high-quality caulking and regular annual care (renewal of the impregnation outside) - up to 100 years.

There are no reliable ways to connect along round logs, therefore maximum length houses made of logs 12 m outside. You can add living space by erecting an extension along with the house and on a common foundation with it (upper right in the figure), but taking into account all the restrictions on cutting into a log house, the width of the extension is no more than 2/3 of the length of the wall to which it adjoins. The maximum possible variant of this type is a 12x12 log house without walls, from each wall of which a 6x6 extension sticks out. The service life is the same as that of a timber structure, tk. rounded log is actually a kind of profiled timber.

Basic Rules

A wild log house made from self-purchased and prepared logs can stand for more than 200 years; log cabins from wild logs are known, which are more than 600. A wild log is not a measured material and can be harvested more than 12 m long. But the assembly of a log cabin from a “savage” is so peculiar that we will return to it a little further, but for now we will complete the analysis of log house construction rules (see fig. and list below):

• The fire safety of log buildings is not higher than average. Impregnation with the best modern flame retardants (impregnating materials for fire resistance) will extinguish a burning rag that has fallen on the floor and slow down the spread of flames from a strong fire so that people have time to evacuate and, possibly, partially remove property. But, even if the fire is quickly extinguished, the remains of the house will have to be demolished and a new one built.
• The cost of the materials themselves for a cheap wild log house is at least twice as much as for a frame or panel house the same usable volume.
• The complexity of building a log house is very high. If you manage to make a log house for 12 crowns over the summer without experience (this is a ceiling of 2.5-2.7 m), and at the same time you will waste no more than 10% of the harvested material, then you are a nugget carpenter.
• A chainsaw, a drill, and perhaps a stationary circular saw and planer will greatly help reduce the time it takes to build a log house, but the proportion of skilled self made however, it is still high. To assemble a log house, just swinging your arms until your bones ache is not enough. It is necessary to work measuredly, carefully, slowly, all the time using the eye, accuracy and ingenuity.
• It is possible to build a log house from a wild log for a bathhouse or a non-residential house (dacha, country summer, hunting) on ​​an unburied foundation on soils up to strongly heaving.
• The assembly of the log house is carried out entirely at once - along with the chopped porch, veranda, summer kitchen, hallway, dressing room, etc. outbuildings. Technical capabilities postpone the completion of the entire building "for later" is, see pos. 1 in Fig., they are technically not very acceptable: the duration and nature of the shrinkage of the log house is significantly different from those of other wooden building structures.

• Cutting a log house into a corner without residue (see below), which significantly saves material, will require the use of joints that are asymmetric about the longitudinal axis of the log or beam. In this case, the overlapping ends of the units of material must pass from one side of the corner to the other on odd and even crowns, pos. 2. The template for marking grooves and spikes can be used alone, but when marking the next crown, it must not only be rotated, but also turned over so that the marking comes out in a mirror image. To do this, the sides of the template are marked "H" (odd) and "H" (even).
• Do not put the log house on the backing bars, pos. 3. The log house does not need either a bearing support or a damping pad - it holds itself. The foundation is covered with waterproofing and a log house is assembled right on it. And the slats under the frame can be, and often are, a loophole for rot and pests.
• The installation of the log house is carried out immediately on the spot, i.е. on the foundation of the building, while immediately making a rough caulking stretch (pos. 4); however, . Assembling a frame to make it easier to work upside down next to the foundation and then shifting crown after crown into place is a crude hack, suitable for temporary or completely unassuming buildings, for example. taiga winter quarters.
• The floor in chopped buildings is made only floating, pos. 5. It is unacceptable to cut the load-bearing beams of the floor (beams) into logs or logs!

Building from timber

A log cabin is suitable for all types of log buildings. It is the most resistant, durable and can stand on a non-buried foundation on moving soils. So let's start the analysis in more detail with him.

Tool

In addition to the usual building to a tree, a special tool, which was mentioned above, is absolutely necessary to cut down a log house. For the construction of edged log cabin you can do without it.

You will need at least 2 axes: a carpenter's with a straight blade and a carpenter's with a convex one, on the left in fig. If there is a chainsaw, a cleaver is not needed - with its help, the logs are cut in half in the old fashioned way and chipped off from them. An ax with an asymmetrically convex blade (top right in the figure), and a set of adzes (bottom right) will also be very useful. A wooden sledgehammer-barsik will greatly improve the quality of work and reduce the muscular efforts required for it by 2-3.5 kg, in the sidebar.

The devil's carpentry tool will be absolutely necessary. On sale under this name there are many semblances of calipers, but they only get accurate markings on the most expensive rounded logs. A real carpenter's trait is a weighty, rough, visible tool (see the figure on the right), which allows you to mark manually debarked wild woods. You can make a line for marking logs yourself (see the drawing at the bottom right in the same figure), and it will be more convenient to work with it: a longitudinal through hole is drilled in the handle away from the axis for a guide pin, which is fixed with a screw or wedge. With such a feature, even a completely green one, but a neat beginner will be able to correctly mark a very clumsy log, see below.

About wild logs

It is a wild log house that can withstand hundreds of years, gradually caking into a kind of monolith. A house or a bathhouse breathes in full force from a wild log. If the Finnish bathhouse can still be built from galvanized logs or timber, then the original Russian bathhouse is cut only by a “savage”. How to put a wild frame for a bath, see for example. video

Video: log cabin from a wild log

To understand the secrets of a wild log, let's look at the structure of its cut, see fig. on right. The wild log is debarked by hand along, and not rotated in a peeler; therefore, it is necessary to purchase wild timber for felling from the loggers, and from sellers - only unbarked. When manually debarking logs, the cambium is preserved - layers of wood of a special structure. In a living tree, it is the cambium that gives the trunk an increase in thickness and the formation of the layers underlying it. And in the frame - the best breath of the tree; in a Russian bath - the optimal ability of the walls to receive and give off heat. Manual debarking (barking) of logs is a laborious task, but if you want your descendants to be surprised: “In great-grandfather he built!”, Then it’s worth it, see the video:

Video: removing bark from logs (barking) yourself

Note: The cambium is most developed in the ancient contemporaries of dinosaurs - conifers. In flowering dicotyledons it is thinner and of a different structure, while in monocotyledonous trees (eg palm trees) it does not exist at all.

Lumberjacks sell wild forest for self-delivery most often freshly felled or, sometimes, last year's, otherwise it makes no sense for them to give a discount (and a considerable one at that). Wild timber purchased from loggers for a log cabin, and taking into account the payment for a timber carrier flight, will cost much cheaper than even a bare log aged at a timber exchange. Which also look for - here it is more profitable for merchants to give the savage for processing and sell the seasoned lumber. That is, the purchased wild forest will need to be dried in their pile, see the plot:

Video: drying timber for a log house

Which one to buy?

Of great importance for the stability and durability of the log house is the time of harvesting wood. A number of experts believe that best wood chopped for a log house in the second half of summer and early autumn. At this time (after seed maturation), the tree's own moisture content is the lowest. The natural moisture in a tree is not just water, but saps with nutrients that are attractive to pests. Closer to winter, the tree again gains sap for wintering: in winter it sleeps, but lives, and maintains its life with reserves of sap. Indeed, the Mediterranean peoples cut down ship timber at the autumn equinox, but in regions with severe winters, this argument is invalid.

In the northern countries, the best forest for felling has always been considered winter. The point is not that in the old days the forest was cut selectively - logging by quarters in countries rich in wood was practiced centuries before the appearance of the Gulag and convicts; The NKVD used the already proven methods of forest management. And it’s not that it’s easier to take a log out of the forest on a sleigh than on a cart: the carrying capacity, cross-country ability and maneuverability of a horse-drawn sleigh outside a well-trodden road is worse than that of a cart.

The point is in the ways in which the tree is protected from freezing moisture in the vessels. If the juices of the tree freeze, it will die without being damaged by frost. Higher plants "got used" to use one of the anomalous properties of water - in the capillaries, its freezing temperature drops; nanotubes manage to keep water viscous, but still liquid at –130 Celsius (!). Coniferous plants are very ancient, their vascular system is not yet so perfect, so for the winter they add more resinous substances to the juices; it is this juice that flows out in the spring when conifers are tapped onto the resin. From a tree cut down in winter, water evaporates during drying, and the resin remains. In a loaded structure, it is still fluidly squeezed out to the open ends of the vessels, where it quickly bituminizes in the air and blocks the way for pests, and only occasionally very rare species of them are capable of biting into or leaking spores through a dry cambium.

Note: as a result, the highest quality timber for log cabins is harvested in regions with high air humidity, abundant snow and fairly low winter temperatures. In the Russian Federation - from Karelia in a strip to the south to the Pskov region.

Log selection

Not measured timber for suitability for processing is rejected by geometry very roughly, and measured timber is calibrated as far as the properties of wood allow: 1% in length. That is, the curvature of the log, and, more importantly, the difference in the diameters of the butt and top parts of the pole (butt and top of a raw business log) is allowed 1 cm / m. If you throw logs into a log house as you have to, then the warp of a 3x4 m bath from 10 crowns of 30 cm logs can run up to half a meter. Therefore, the logs prepared for the log house must be sorted before drying, disassembled along the sides of the building, and marked - which crown of which wall and in which direction will fall.

If you collect a log house in bulk, it will turn out the same as on the left in Fig. below. Not only is it not worthy of the standard term - for a 12-crown, due to the need to trim each crown, it will take 4 more logs. Which cost a lot of money. After 5-10 years, the log house splits in bulk, caulk climbs out of it, and rots or is affected by a bug. But the frame, assembled from logs, the butts and tops of which are mutually oriented from crown to crown (on the right in the figure), only settles down and gains strength over time.

In a log cabin made of rounded logs, it is also desirable to orient the butts with tops in the opposite direction; this increases the real life of its service by 1.5-2 times against the calculated one. In both cases, in addition to the evenness of the calculation, the direction of convergence of annual layers plays a role. The resinous balsam is squeezed out more towards the butt, and in a properly folded frame, the logs seem to help each other resist external influences. It is difficult to determine the direction of convergence of the layers according to the texture of the rounded log, and on spruce and larch it is often impossible, but the “tails” of the knots serve as an excellent indicator: in crowns adjacent in height, they should be in different directions, compare on the left and right in Fig.

Note: when sorting logs into a log house, put those that are thicker on the crowns, which are lower. Up the thickness of the logs should decrease. How can a beer bottle stand better - on the bottom or on the neck? A log house made of logs, dispersed in size in height at random, will stand at best for a standard period.

Which cut?

A log house in a corner has one advantage: a significantly lower material consumption. The correct protrusion of the obla is from 1 foot, i.e. more than 30.5 cm. Now they give an oblo of 20-25 cm, but this also reduces the maximum possible service life of a log house from this log by 1.5-2 times. A short oblo makes sense only in a frame made of re-glued logs. Let's estimate: a log house in the oblo 6x9 of 12 crowns. A total of 96 protruding ends of 30 cm each - 28.8 m of a log! The obla took either almost 5 short logs, or more than 3 long logs. For money - it bites painfully. In all other respects - in terms of strength, rigidity, durability, appearance- a log house in a corner is inferior to a log house with a remainder. Especially - in terms of durability: none of the log cabins, which are more than 100 years old, are cut into a corner. The obla serve as a kind of bituminized plugs that do not let pests into the tree, and the grooves of the log house (see below) are closed. The ends of the log cabins in the corner are more open external influences.

crown crown

Salary is the lowest and most responsible crown of the log house. The quality of the entire log house as a whole depends a lot on the quality of its assembly. The conditional plane covering the flashing crown must be horizontal, so the logs for it are selected and prepared very carefully.

Not only in Runet, but also in many old printed manuals for carpenters, one important point in laying the crown crown is missed: what to do with the gap between it and the foundation, which is formed on 2 sides, if the crown crown is done like the rest (shown by red arrows in pos. .1 and 2 fig.)

Lay with a board or a beam? Gate for harmful living creatures, rot and mold: there is no cambium on lumber. Lay the foundation with ledges (pos 3)? And where is it said about such people with SNIPs? It will crack when settling. A correctly crowned crown of a log house, especially a log house for a house, is assembled using a half log (pos. 4):

1. On the short sides of the log house, 1 (one) thickest log, the least converging to the top, is selected; ideally cylindrical.
2. On the long sides, 2 logs are selected, possibly more equal in thickness and also less converging at the tops.
3. Edges are removed from long logs for laying on the foundation so that the heights of the cross sections of the logs from the edge plane to the top of the cut D are equal along the entire length, see below.
4. The log on the short sides is halved lengthwise or a chopping block is cut out of it (still useful) so that the height of the resulting slabs T is equal to half D along the entire length.
5. The slabs are laid on the foundation.
6. Long logs are placed on the slabs with the edges down and the tops in opposite directions.
7. A line is marked on long logs for cutting grooves for assembly into a flake (an inverted bowl, see below).
8. Long logs are removed and grooves are selected in them.
9. Long logs are put in place - they will be protruding halfway over short slabs.
10. Further assembly of the log house is carried out in accordance with the daily manuals (see below).

Note: do not forget here and everywhere further when selecting grooves, give an allowance of 5-7 mm for caulking! And how to make a carriage for a chainsaw for longitudinal sawing of logs, see the video below.

Video: carriage for longitudinal cutting of logs for a log house

How to remove edging

Removing the edge from long logs (they, by the way, are called beds in the crown, and short croakers are called boys) for laying on the foundation is also a responsible matter. Walking along the bed with a chainsaw will not work, you will have to work with your hands. Bring down the edge into the prone, as shown in the inset at the top left in fig. lower, maybe an experienced carpenter, and even then in a hurry. The fact is that the ax under its weight will turn with the blade down, and the tactile (muscular) feeling of a person has a threshold of sensitivity. A beginner without developed muscular skills will feel the departure of the ax when he is already biting below the cuts (see below), automatically turn it up, and the whole edge will turn out to be humpbacked. Correctly, the edge is removed from the bed with an ax in the air (see also the figure below):

• From a pair of beds, a thinner one is chosen, placed with its top (!) On a support (preferably in a groove on it) and temporarily fixed with brackets, pos. 1 in fig.
• The axial (central) line is marked with a plumb line, a notch is made along it on the support, and a plumb line is marked corresponding to the width of the edge in half the diameter of the log (forming the edge). Measure the height of the bed at the top D, pos. 4, pos. 2 and 3.
• Shift the bed with a butt on a support. On a plumb line, the axial one is set vertically at the top. D is laid on the butt, and according to the marks on the butt and the top, the outline of the edging is beaten off with a coated cord, pos. 4. It will turn out to be slightly divergent, but when laying down, its top line will be horizontal.
• Repeat operations with another bed, setting aside the resulting value D on its butt and top.
• They put beds on the boys, mark the bowls on them and collect the crown crown, as described above.

Longitudinal grooves

Before continuing work, we will decide what will be the longitudinal grooves in the logs of the log house, or buy logs with which grooves. The stability and durability of the log house depend on this more than on the methods of cutting, because. it is the longitudinal grooves that keep the caulking, and if they are not properly executed, are the most convenient place to start warping and / or introducing rot and pests.

The corner groove (pos. 1 in the figure) can be cut with any ax, incl. marching. But it needs a lot of caulking, and when the log cabin shrinks and shrinks, the wings of the groove diverge, revealing layers of wood without cambium, less resistant to external influences. Waste material is large. It is used for self-construction of non-residential buildings on hastily from waste or free materials, for example. taiga huts from deadwood.

The lunar groove (pos. 2) is often called Canadian, and the angular Russian, which is wrong. Both of these grooves are Russian, because the traditions and techniques of wooden architecture were brought to Canada and to America in general by the Russian pioneers of Alaska. The lunar groove does not open during shrinkage / shrinkage (pos. 3). To cut it down (see below), you need a carpenter's ax, or, better, an ax, or, even better, an adze. The disadvantage is that the caulk needs quite a lot of rough (in a puff), and to it - high-quality finishing (in a set).

If a log house is cut from a wild log, then so that the rudimentary crack goes as it should, and the groove is made shallow, 2-3 cm, longitudinal pioneer washed down (marked in bright green in pos. 2). If the frame is made of galvanized or glued logs with a moon groove, then it has already passed its own shrinkage and shrinkage, and only the weight remains in the structure. Then a deep, through the entire sapwood to the core, a pioneer gash is made on the vault of a log, pos. 4a. Under weight load, the groove will not diverge by itself, but will compress the arch of the lower log.

Note: over time, cracks will appear on the outer surface of the log, but they are not dangerous - they do not violate the strength of the structure and occur when the core of the log turns into pure lignin, which is unsuitable for the settlement of pest germs.

You need to be very careful when choosing ready-made logs with a moon groove (and Finnish, see below). The groove should sit on the lower log with wings in a small, up to 7 mm, gap inside, pos. 4a. If the upper log sits on the lower one, somewhat softening the professional jargon, “booty on the pussy”, pos. 4b, i.e. the gap is “squeezed out” onto the wings of the groove, this is an unacceptable marriage - caulking from such a groove will immediately climb, and a log house from such logs is unlikely to stand for more than 10-15 years.

Finnish groove, pos. 5, is also performed without an upper cut on wild logs (pos. 5a) and with a cut on rounded and glued logs, pos. 5 B. Moss suitable for caulking a log house is less the further north, and flax, hemp (on tow), and even more so jute, do not grow in Finland. Therefore, the Finnish groove requires a minimum of rough caulking and does not require finishing at all. However, you can choose it only at the sawmill or, manually, with a special tool being a very experienced carpenter. Just in case, we give a drawing of the Finnish groove for the most common log with a diameter of 260 mm (see the figure on the right); the required accuracy is 0.25 mm.

Log cabin in oblo

Depending on local conditions and the type of foundation, a log cabin can be assembled into an oblo different ways. It will come out of the wild forest from the harvester and not overly expensive.

Cutting the logs into the bowl, see fig. below., or Russian (but - see above) is the easiest: the marking of the bowl and the longitudinal groove is carried out at the same time along the upper log, which is not processed deferred, see fig. on right. The upper log is placed in place, the groove on the lower crown is marked with a line. The upper log is removed, the groove is selected, the upper log is put back. Marking accuracy maximum possible: good log house in a bowl can be folded from completely clumsy junk logs. But the stability of the frame in the bowl is low, even if it is from a selected winter savage - water flows into the bowl and the longitudinal groove. Temporary and non-residential buildings are hastily cut into the bowl; sometimes - log cabins with a relay. They are collected away from the foundation upside down (from the upper crowns to the lower ones) and then the crown by crown is transferred to the foundation, see above. This is a bad way, because either during a rough assembly, the log house will not converge exactly, or, if you do not give allowances for caulking, it will come out initially slitted.

Assembling the log house into an okhlop, i.e. into an inverted bowl (“Canadian”, and again - see above!) requires careful marking and selection of grooves (see below), because they are also marked in place, but separately, and the upper log after marking is processed separately to the side. But every one of the log cabins, which are over 100, are collected exclusively in a hood.

There are several varieties of grooves in the upper log for a log house, see the right in fig. above. A cut into an okhryap is also called a Russian castle, and from this point of view it is “even more rustic” - choosing a groove with a flat bottom is much easier than a circular (semicircular) one. It is used for non-residential buildings (baths, etc.) without internal load-bearing partitions; if on a non-buried foundation, then on stable, well-bearing (from 0.7 kgf / sq. cm) non-rocky and slightly heaving soils.

Cutting into a comb into a comb (sometimes they write - into a oval comb) is made for the same buildings, on the contrary, on moving soils in areas where the tree is not subject to decay. A little common way, because. water flows into the longitudinal groove, and the upper log must be removed and processed to the side to select the groove. The cut into the okhryap with finishing (edging) of the ends is decorative - this is how log cabins are placed, the outer and inner surfaces of the walls of which are hemmed under the finish. Log cabins are placed in an okhlop with a fat tail for residential buildings in areas where the tree is prone to rotting, on moving soils, and in a bun with a fat tail and a comb - on them, but in drier places and where pests are not so common.

Marking logs for a log house

The marking of grooves on logs for log cabins in the oblo and in the corner is done in various ways, but in both cases it requires the utmost accuracy from the master. And therefore it is considered in one section.

When marking the logs of the log house into the flank, the bowls are first marked (on the left in the figure; the calculated ratios for both grooves are also given there), but they are not cut down yet. Attention: if you put up a frame from a wild log, then the diameter d for marking the bowl must be taken from the lower, already laid in the frame, transverse relative to the new log!

The longitudinal groove is also marked in place and along the bottom, but now longitudinal log, i.e. lying under the new, pos. 1 on the right in fig. It is extremely important not to skew the line (pos. 2), so it is either put on the hammer handle or equipped with a guide pin (see above); experienced carpenters do not disdain this technique, who care primarily about the quality of work, and not about window dressing.

After marking, a longitudinal groove is first sawn under the sample. With a chainsaw (pos. 3), this is not so simple: you need, without seeing the end of the blade with the chain, to draw it exactly along the arc of the circle, so many craftsmen still prefer not to cut the groove, but to cut it with an ax or, in extreme cases, carpentry axe. In any case, cuts / notches are made evenly along the length so that the groove is, as it were, divided into squares. After that, the groove is cut down with diagonal blows with a carpenter's ax (pos. 4) or, better, with an ax. If the log house is made of wild logs, this is enough - the logs will sit tightly on top of each other. If the groove is on a rounded log, then it is not completely selected with an ax, but is brought clean with an adze. Now you can also choose a groove-bowl, lay a rough caulk and put the log in place.

Note 6: the selection of grooves and the laying of logs in place are carried out in pairs - two short, two long. After assembling each crown, its horizontalness is checked and, if necessary, trimmed. And do not forget about 5-7 mm allowances per caulk!

Log cabins in the corner (corner) are assembled almost exclusively in the paw. There is no need to use methods for connecting beams (see below) on a material length of up to 12 m: round log much stronger and stiffer than a rectangular beam of that transverse area.

How to mark logs for a log house in a paw is shown in fig. A paw with a notch is used if any of the sides of the log house is longer than 4.5 m.

If you are going to put a log house in a paw, be sure to consider the following: first, due to the transition of the spike and the groove under it from one side of the corner to the other on odd and even crowns (see above), the markings must be made, respectively, straight or mirror. The second - when assembling from a wild log, the smallest of the diameters of the logs of the previous already folded crown is taken as the base size for breaking down into 8 shares in height (see Fig.). The matter turns out to be troublesome, therefore, often the upper and lower edges are removed from the logs for a log house in the paw, so that a semi-edged timber of the same height is obtained. Then the same template is suitable for marking, the log house will come out stronger, warmer, and more suitable for a bath. True, it will cost 4 extra logs for 3-5 crowns, so that in the end a log house made of logs in a paw turns out to save material only in length, and its consumption in cubic meters may turn out to be even more than not chopped into a cloud.

About the reinforcement of the log house

When dismantling old, but still quite suitable for their intended purpose, log cabins on either side longer than 14 feet (4.27 m), it turns out that almost all of them are additionally fastened with oak or beech dowels, see fig. on right. The strength of a log house made of wild logs on dowels acquires extraordinary over time: it can be torn off the foundation with jacks without gun carriages, loaded by a crane into the back of a truck and transported intact to the museum. And if you still need to break it, then sometimes you had to use a ball-woman, otherwise the disassembly turned into an unbearable burden.

The diameter of the dowels for fastening the log house is 40-60 mm. Length - 100-130 mm. Blind holes for dowels are drilled 1.5-2 mm after marking, processing the fit in place of all logs of the next crown. In rough caulking, holes are cut out for dowels at the site, on the contrary, 3-5 mm wider. The dowels are carefully hammered into the lower log with a leopard. Then the top log is placed and set in place with a heavy piece of log with a handle, the same as a wooden rammer.

Log cabin

A log cabin is predominantly “homemade” - it gives, in addition to the ability to increase the size of the building (see above), walls that breathe more freely than log cabins, which is more suitable for residential premises. A bath from a bar is best obtained Finnish or russian easy family, see video:

Video: do-it-yourself log house using a bath as an example

Longitudinal connection

The possibility of building up beams for a log house in length is so significant that it should be stopped in the first place: if the joint of the beams disperses, then the best thing that will follow is a complex repair. And in the worst case scenario - temporary eviction from the house and the bulkhead of the log house.

Connection in a direct lock (on the left in the figure) is the most reliable mechanically and technologically simple, but locks. It is recommended to use it if it goes under an additional finish that protects against moisture, for example. siding sheathing. The connection in an oblique lock does not draw in moisture, however, it is more difficult to perform and it is less durable. The junction of the beams into an oblique lock must be reinforced with dowels fastening the crowns (see below), 0.6 m on both sides.

Half-tree connections, straight and oblique (on the right in the figure) with dowels at the joint in the log house, are absolutely unreliable: operational stresses can simply cut off the dowels, and the beam will suddenly turn out of the log house; especially if the joint is oblique. The author of these lines, in the days of his rather careless youth, had a chance to witness how a beam “shot” from a log house killed a covener on the spot. Literally brains blew out spray. The case is already painful, and then there is the investigation - the corpse after all. The local district police officer sided with the hard workers, but an investigator for especially important cases came from the region. And this Stalinist last child with a circular mark from a cap on the brain, instead of all the convolutions, was tightly sewn up where people have thoughts: nothing happens without a culprit. The accident is a Trotsky-bourgeois invention. As it turned out, not at all from ideological considerations: in order to please the excuse for this, I beg your pardon, garbage from the Soviets, the team had to fork out almost half of their summer earnings. There was simply no more available. As the men discussed this incident among themselves, the boatswain from the flagship of the fleet of Peter the Great would have heard. But enough of the black lyrics, back to the topic.

Corner connection

A log house from a bar can also be assembled into a cloud and into a corner without residue. It is not so rare to put log cabins in the field: more or less “primordially” they still look, but most often log cabins are still assembled in a corner: the savings on material here are not relative.

Methods for assembling a log house from a bar into an oblo are shown on the left in fig. The half-tree connection is the simplest and least durable. It is used for non-residential buildings of small size (up to 4x6 m) without load-bearing partitions. Put such a log house in an okhlop or in a bowl big difference no, because grooves with a flat bottom and sheer walls. The connection in the fat tail is used if the log house is made of beams that are composite along the length; in okhryap - for log cabins of residential buildings from a single bar. Most of the sales kits for log cabins are prepared for joining into ocher.

The connections of the corners of the log cabin are shown at the top in fig. Butt joint quality bars significantly saves material, but fragile. Assembly on a plug-in spike for corners is rarely used, and only for buildings no larger than about 3.5x5 m. More often, a plug-in spike connection is used as an additional one when installing load-bearing partitions.

If, however, the corner of the log house is butt-joined on the plug-in spike, then it is highly desirable to use a pair (more precisely, three) spike-groove (s) of the dovetail type, see fig. The thorn itself is made of hard, thin-layer hardwood, resistant to external influences, for example. oak. A mirror template for marking the dovetail is not needed, it is enough to alternate the overlapping bars of the crowns adjacent in height.

The connection in the paw is most often used in log cabins of baths and non-residential buildings; we will dwell on it below in more detail. The butt joint on the root spike (see Fig.) is technologically the most difficult, but durable, suitable for residential buildings and has the most valuable quality: it allows the use of defective warped timber for the assembly of a log house. After a year of exposure to shrinkage, it levels out, and if you remove it from the log house, it will be no worse than the standard one. However, at least 4-6 high-quality bars should be placed in each of the log walls between the “screw” ones, i.e. it is impossible to buy a complete substandard for a log house at a cheap price: the connection in the root only allows you to put into action a marriage that accidentally wormed its way into the party; In no case should you put a defective beam in the crown crown!

When assembling the log house, the warped beam is gradually pulled into place with hoists, in the course of straightening it is fastened with the already laid dowels, see fig. on right. When it comes to the spike, it is cut to fit into the groove, hammered into place with a leopard and wedged, turning the very end of the warped beam so that it fits snugly on the bottom. Now we need a technical break in work for 2-3 days, so that the strongest internal stresses disperse in the forcibly stuffed timber.

The half-tree connection on the plug-in spike is rarely used, because. requires the most selective ideally even timber of natural drying (not in a heat chamber or microwave). It is more used when installing partitions, butt joint on the plug-in spike, see fig.:

Note: about the corner joints of a log house from a bar, see also the video review below.

Video: about the corner joints of the beam

Partitions in a log house

Another important advantage of a log cabin is that it is much easier than a log cabin to partition it inside with both load-bearing and simple planning bulkheads. Methods for inserting partitions into a timber frame are shown below in fig. above with the connection diagrams of the timber.

Butt joint assembly on a plug-in spike is used to install light bulkheads: it does not weaken the frame itself, and the bulkhead beam may not be the same size as that in the frame. A half-pan tie-in (so to speak, on a dovetail “half-tail”) is most suitable for load-bearing partitions of a residential building, because. practically does not weaken the chopped box, but, on the contrary, strengthens it and itself adheres to it tightly. The spikes of the semi-frying pan should be mirrored from crown to crown (shown by the red arrow).

The insertion of a single partition with a frying pan (dovetail) weakens the frame, but strengthens it if the box-shaped structure itself that holds the load well is attached: chopped canopy, summer kitchen, bath at the house, and other chopped extension on a common foundation with the house. On the 2-sided main tenon, partitions are cut that are subject to periodic operational loads; preim. thermal. For example, enclosing the kitchen, cold hallways, a bathroom, or next to which there is a house stove. In this case, the tie-ins on the root spike of the crowns, starting from the 2nd, should alternate with butt joints on the plug-in spike (shown by the red arrow), otherwise the frame itself will be excessively weakened.

Installation of a log cabin

The main problems of a log house from a bar are the transverse displacement of the bars due to warping and squeezing out the caulk. There are a lot of beam profiles for log cabins designed to avoid both (see some samples in the figure), but there are no methods yet to put a log cabin without reinforcing it with dowels (through dowel pins).

How the installation of a log house in a paw from a bar is carried out, shown in the following. rice. on the example of a bar 150 mm. Marking for other sizes (top left) is carried out similarly: top - square; on the side - a bevel at half the thickness. The tongue-and-groove junctions should alternate mirror-like from crown to crown, bottom left. Hardwood dowels should enter the lower beam at 1/3 of its height; based on this, the drilling depth limiter 5 is set on the right in fig. Plus an allowance of 5-7 mm for caulking, don't forget! The diameter of the dowels is 30-40 mm; the diameter of the holes for them is 1.5-2 mm smaller. It is better to hammer pins with a snow leopard, so much less expensive oak or beech round timber will go to waste. From the edge of any opening to the nearest dowel must be at least 120 cm.

Beams for a log house imitating a log

Sometimes, to imitate (however, not very convincing even for a non-specialist) a log cabin for a log house, a 3-edged edged beam or a lamella of the same profile is used. It's so popular that 3-sided timber is sold under the clever name D-log. D-logs are often sold with ready-made tenons and grooves for butt joint (in a corner) or in a cloud. When buying these, keep in mind that they are “mirror-like” and go on sale as “round-flat” and “flat-round”, see fig. on right. From those and others, opposite walls are assembled in pairs (if the bars are of the same length) or adjacent crowns adjacent in height, if the length of the bars is different.

Openings in a log house

A log house without windows and doors was placed only in the old days as a cruel punishment for dangerous criminals, rebels and those objectionable to the authorities. Given a choice, many convicts preferred the death penalty by beheading or by hanging rather than being cut down. So anyone will have to make openings for windows and doors in a log house.

An opening in a log house is much easier to make than in any other wall: it is simply cut out, see fig.:

It is necessary to fulfill only 3 conditions: at least 1.5 logs or at least 2.5 beams must remain at the top and bottom of the opening; the opening cuts into the upper and lower logs / beams at half their height, and from the edges of the opening to the adjacent, corner, partition or the nearest dowel must be at least 1.2 m. logs; in all respects it would be better to make them from ordinary edged boards. So the work - to put up a log house with your own hands - does not consist of difficulties alone.

Wooden houses have always been considered the most attractive for living. Maximum comfort at minimum cost is one of their main advantages. Given that individual construction is now gaining popularity, an important indicator is the fact that when building such buildings, you can independently perform almost the entire amount of work. And it's even easier to look at the projects and prices of the DDM-Stroy company, which offers turnkey timber houses. A beam is especially convenient in this regard, which is much easier to mount than a log.

Any event begins with planning, so you first need to decide on the varieties of these products and take into account some points.

• Firstly, the do-it-yourself process can be significantly complicated if the choice of material is made incorrectly.
• Secondly, when determining the amount of expenses, it is not necessary to focus only on the price of the product (rubles / m3) and purchase its cheapest option. There are also additional expenses, which depend on the degree of its readiness for installation.
• Thirdly, although such houses are being built quite quickly, but when you can start finishing the building, move into it, again depends largely on the type of building material.

Given all this, we will briefly consider the features of the types of timber available on the market and the feasibility of acquiring each of them.

The highest quality, but also the most expensive. It is an "assembly" of thin boards (lamellas) glued together. This achieves high strength of the material, excellent sound and heat insulation qualities, and most importantly - it does not shrink. So, you can immediately settle in such a dwelling.

Profiled

unplaned

The cheapest product, since in fact it is an unprocessed blank obtained after cutting the log along the entire length from 4 sides. The construction of this type of timber is associated with numerous difficulties, and the initial savings on material will lead to significant costs for further preparation for installation and the need for additional measures.

Private developers prefer to purchase profiled products, as it is easier to work with. Therefore, we will consider the technology of building a house from a bar in relation to it, and only a general methodology, since individual nuances are determined by local conditions.

The main stages of construction from a timber house

• Foundation

For such a structure, in principle, any type of it is suitable. The choice is determined by the characteristics of the soil, the location of underground water layers and a number of other factors. For residential buildings, a strip base is most preferable, as it allows you to equip a basement. Such a foundation for a house made of timber can be laid at different depths, but given that buildings of more than 3 floors are not built from this building material, a shallow version is sufficient (about 60 - 80 cm for a residential building and 45 - for light construction).

• Trench

To reduce the likelihood of groundwater penetration from below, it is advisable to fill its bottom with a layer of clay (about 10 cm) and carefully compact it. And only then - a shock-absorbing "cushion" (a mixture of gravel-sand or only coarse sand).

The dimensions of the tape for interior walls may be smaller. It depends on the layout of the house and the features of fastening the truss system.

• formwork

It is done in such a way that the upper part of the foundation rises about 50 cm above the ground. Another option is at ground level, and on top is masonry half a meter high. For her, it is recommended to use ceramic bricks.

It makes sense to equip fixed formwork. For this, expanded polystyrene plates are used.

What does it give?

1. Additional base insulation.
2. Protection of the foundation for a house made of timber from mechanical damage and deformation due to displacements of the earth layers, which are caused by different reasons including seasonal ones. Styrofoam in this case plays the role of a shock-absorbing layer, softening the pressure on the concrete.
3. More reliable protection the recessed part from the penetration of moisture, since this material does not absorb it.

Therefore, significant savings can be made on finishing materials, since polystyrene foam is inexpensive.

• frame

By itself, concrete is not strong enough - it must be reinforced. Only in this case is it able to withstand the full weight of the building (the building itself + its "stuffing"). Considering that the construction of log cabins from a bar belongs to the “low-rise” category, it is enough to use a bar with a cross section of up to 8 mm to assemble the frame.

You need to take into account:

• it is desirable to connect the rods manually, using a special wire (knitting method). Application welding machine leads to overheating of the metal, thereby reducing the strength of the structure;
• to prevent direct contact of the fitting with the liquid, its dimensions must be smaller than the profile of the tape. That is, on any side it should not come closer than 5 cm to the surface of the "fill". Therefore, the frame is placed not on the bottom of the trench, but on bricks, plastic "stands" and the like.

• Pouring solution

In order for the concrete to have as few voids as possible (and this reduces the strength of the monolith), the mass of the solution in the formwork must be compacted. At the same time, the water in it will begin to “leave” upwards, where its evaporation will proceed more intensively, which will reduce the hardening time.

Compaction of the mixture is carried out with the same reinforcing bar, with which it is pierced many times over the entire area of ​​​​the fill. The feasibility of using a shovel, as recommended by some sources, seems doubtful, since its bayonet through reinforcing cage won't go everywhere.

It is necessary to protect the walls from the influence of moisture coming from below, from the ground (capillary penetration). Often you can find recommendations on the use of roofing material as an insulating material. This is rather done out of habit, since traditionally it was he who was used as the cheapest and most affordable. But given that even under the most “comfortable” conditions, it lasts at most 5 years, and there is a large assortment of similar (and inexpensive) products on the market, it is better to purchase a membrane or a thick film.

In addition, the cut-off insulation material must be joined with the layer that covers the floors of the 1st floor to protect against moisture, since ideally the protection should be “monolithic”. For its arrangement, not roofing material is used, but most often it is a polyethylene film that is laid on the base. A logical question arises - how to securely fasten products that are completely heterogeneous in composition and properties?

Stripes are cut out of the material with a width slightly larger than the monolith tape. The upper section of the foundation is coated with special mastic or liquid bitumen, and a layer of waterproofing is laid on top. Depending on the characteristics of the soil (location of underground water layers), you may have to put a second one.

Do-it-yourself construction of a log house from a bar

It is done in several ways, so we will briefly consider each.

"In half a tree"

At the ends (which will be angular), cuts (cuttings) are made for half the thickness of the products. Holes for dowels (connecting pins) are drilled in the center.

As such, it is better to use round wedges from the same wood as the beam itself. This will ensure that the coefficients of thermal deformation of materials correspond. The use of metal pins is not recommended.

Masters recommend fastening several crowns (rows of timber) with one dowel at once. This method requires additional measures of insulation, otherwise strong ventilation of the corners cannot be avoided. Wooden inserts are mounted in them, for example, jute is clogged. Therefore, the preparation of the end parts of the workpieces requires special precision.

But the bars of the lower crown are fastened only by this method!

"Bandage" (with root spike)

Holes for dowels are also being prepared. But the connection of the bars is made "castle". Its meaning is that it is denser and, in addition, prevents the mutual displacement of products. On one beam, a drank is made, and on the other - a protrusion, which is inserted into this groove.

On "pins"

The difference is that the grooves are prepared on both connected bars. A rectangular key is inserted into them. At the same time, such parts in all rows should be located so that in each next there is some shift in their position.

Mounting Tips

• For a more reliable fastening of the rows, the craftsmen advise using additional nails. They must be of such length as to pass through the beam and penetrate into the underlying one by at least half its thickness.
• Every 4 rows, it is advisable to make the connection using the “half-tree” method.
• Must be assembled especially securely top crown, since the truss system will be attached to it.

Regardless of the connection method, each row is covered with insulation. To ensure quality and simplify the work, it is advisable to buy a tape made of jute fabric (commercially available). This product has a stable thickness along the entire length, so the formation of even microscopic gaps between the bars is excluded. When using traditional tow, this quality of wall sealing cannot be achieved.

Fixing the tape at the place of laying is carried out with a construction stapler.

In length

As a rule, it is not possible to purchase a beam of exactly the same length as the wall. In the process of work, the workpieces have to be connected not only at the corners, but also along the perimeter. In such cases, the “half-tree” method is used, but in such a way that the joints in adjacent rows are spaced apart, and not located on top of each other.

In the area of ​​window and door openings, the beams are connected using 2 dowels.

The erection of partitions (internal walls) is carried out only after the completion of the assembly of the log house.

• If possible, it is more expedient to purchase timber directly at the enterprise. And it's not just the cost. For a moderate fee, according to specific drawings of the Customer, specialists using industrial equipment will prepare all blanks for installation (cutting out cups, drilling holes for dowels), and also impregnate with special compounds. The owner will only have to assemble such a "constructor". The cost of paying for such a service is offset by a reduction in construction time and more high quality(accuracy) of all connections (given the complexity of their self-adjustment).
• When choosing a type of wood, you need to consider that coniferous is less susceptible to decay. But you need to take into account how family members tolerate its smell (if there are any allergies). In addition, for the lower crown, experienced craftsmen advise using timber only from larch. By absorbing moisture, it only becomes stronger (“hardens”).
• When choosing a material, you should pay attention to the degree of its moisture content. The wood dried at the enterprise is more expensive. But in order to ensure its high-quality drying on the spot, you need not only to have great experience, but also to create the necessary conditions for this (for example, free space for proper stacking; create optimal ventilation). If you are not confident in your abilities, then you should not save on this.
• It is advisable to select the length of the bars so that maximum amount connections accounted for the joints of the external and internal walls. This will increase the strength of the bonds.

The technology of assembling a log house from a bar for a house or a bath

Organization of the workplace for the assembly of walls

In order for the work to be argued, the bars are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5-6 meters from the building on one or better - on its two sides. Each layer of beams in a stack is laid on pads of boards.

A workplace for marking and cutting beams is equipped next to the stack. A variant of the arrangement of such a workplace is shown in the figure.

It is convenient to mark the beam using a template at a height of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the marking area, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered onto low linings in the cutting area. In this position, it is convenient and safe to saw the timber with a chain saw.

The cut beam is lifted onto the wall. To facilitate lifting, slopes are arranged - inclined bars, which rest with their upper end on the upper crown of the log house. The beam is moved along the slopes with a rope.

Wedge-shaped stops are nailed to the slopes, which make lifting the timber safer. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to manage with small forces. Even one person can, if necessary, lift the beam, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.

It is most convenient to carry out work on assembling a log house from a bar by a team of four people. You can work together as well work will go slower.

For the installation of the upper rims of the log house and the roof, scaffolding is constructed.

Three-tier scaffolding on the pediment of the house. 1 — Rack extreme; 2 — l-shaped rack forests of the first tier side facade; 3 - flooring; 4 — Rack central; 5 - cruciform braces (shown conditionally); 6 - bosses

The assembly of the upper crowns of the log house is carried out from the level of the first tier. The flooring of the first tier is laid on g - shaped racks, pos. 2 in the figure. Racks are installed around the walls of the house and attached to the walls with the help of bosses, pos.6.

At the stage of erection of the roof (attic), on the facades, where the device of gables is necessary, it is necessary to make scaffolding in three tiers. For the construction of scaffolding racks, boards 50 x 150 are used mm. Flooring is made from the same boards.

It is more convenient, faster and safer to work from scaffolding than from ladders - do not forget about it.

Marking bars for wall assembly

Practical construction experience shows that it is not realistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints.

Before starting work, they draw a scheme for assembling the walls of the house, on which they indicate: the serial number of the crown, the type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, the position of the openings in the wall.

An example of a house wall assembly scheme is shown in the figure:

Scheme for marking the corner joints of the beam and the joints of the details of the longitudinal walls, for a house with overall dimensions of 6x9 meters. BUT and FROM- longitudinal walls; D and B- transverse walls; E- an inner wall made of timber - a partition; 1 - joints of beams.

At the house, which is shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 pieces of bars from 3 to 6 in length. m.

The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main beam standard length 6 meters and extensions, 3 meters long. On one crown, long bars are laid on the left, and extensions on the right. On the next crown, laying begins in the same order, but on the right.

The details of the crown of the transverse wall and the partition are made from one bar of a standard length of 6 meters.

To exclude cold bridges in the outer walls, the joints of the beams of the longitudinal wall, item 1, are performed by making vertical cuts “to the floor of the tree” with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The beam in the corners of the crowns is connected into a dressing with a root spike (for more details, see below).

How to correctly and quickly mark spikes, grooves and other profiles, ensure identical dimensions of timber blanks?

The easiest way to do this is with templates. The template is applied to the beam and the contour of the template profiles is transferred to the surface of the beam with a marker.

More convenient, faster to mark and will less mistakes, if the template completely repeats the contour of the part, has the same length as the part to be marked. I put a template on the beam and immediately transferred all the dimensions and profiles to the workpiece.

For our example, it will be necessary to make seven templates, according to the number of parts in the crown. One template marks two mirrored parts of the walls.

If you think about it, the number of templates can be reduced. Consider how to make universal templates for marking the details of the longitudinal walls of the house (see the wall assembly diagram above).

Two patterns (highlighted brightly yellow) for marking the beam of the longitudinal walls. 4 - a groove for a root spike; 5 - groove for the spike of the inner wall; 6 - sample; 7 - dobor bar.

The picture above shows the pattern. for marking the main beam in the crown, in which the extension is located on the right. On the wall layout diagram, these are crowns A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.

bottom template serves for marking the main beam in the crowns with an extension on the left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.

At first glance, the templates are the same, but differ in that the grooves, pos. 5, for connection with the partition, are located in different places templates.

The same templates are used to mark the details of the extensions. To do this, on patterns at points b and With drilled through holes, and at the points a and d incisions have been made.

To mark the extension, the template is applied to the timber and points are pricked through the holes and cuts on the surface of the workpiece.

Remember this technique with the device holes in the template. This will help you create generic templates in many other cases.

The templates are made from planed "inch" boards.

As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse ones). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to harvest parts for transverse walls and partitions.

And now let's consider how templates are used. To mark the first beam of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is placed on the beam and the end of the template is circled with a marker on the left, then two grooves and, finally, a selection for the connection “to the floor of the tree”. The marked beam is transferred to the place of cutting, where unnecessary fragments (they are better when marking out
hatch) cut out with a chainsaw.

How to mark details with spikes? Obviously, the tongue and groove are elements of the same node, which means they must correspond to each other in size and location. In a detail with a spike, a spike is marked in place of the groove.

If the groove dimensions are 5×5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with interventional insulation.

The profile of the template is transferred to the upper face of the beam. The markings are transferred to the vertical edge of the beam using a square. According to this markup, accurate cuts are carried out.

How to assemble smooth walls from a bar of different widths

Specifications (TS) for the manufacture of timber allow deviation of the size of the timber in one direction or another from the standard value specified in the documents.

If the purchase documents indicate the standard dimensions of the timber, for example, section 150x150 mm. and a length of 6 meters, the actual dimensions will differ from the standard.

Each bar, in a batch of timber brought to the construction site, will differ from the dimensions indicated in the documents by several millimeters. The cross-sectional dimensions and length of the bars will be different.

Dimensional variation must be taken into account when developing templates, marking timber and assembling walls.

How to assemble even walls if the timber is different in width and length?

b — minimum width timber; delta b- the difference between narrow and wide beams.

Obviously, from a bar different widths, you can make only one surface of the wall smooth - either from the outside or from the inside of the building.

If they want to make a smooth wall of the house outside, then all the bars in the wall are aligned along the outer edge. Then inside the house, wide bars will protrude from the wall by the amount of "delta b"(difference between narrow and wide bars). Alignment on the outer edge leads to an increase in the gaps in the corner connection of the bars (see figure).

If the bars in the wall are aligned along the inner edge, then the "steps" of the protruding beams will already be on the outer surface of the wall. The wall outside is usually sheathed. And if you chamfer the outer edges of the beam, then the steps on the wall will be invisible even without sheathing. Corner connections bars are more dense, "warm".

How and with what to connect the crowns of the log house

Each crown of the log house is connected to lower crown metal or wooden dowels. Nagels are located at a distance of approximately 250-300 mm from the end of the beam and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the beam.

Each detail of the crown is fixed with at least two dowels. The length of the dowel must be at least 1.5 times the height of the beam.

cm., pos. one.

Dowels made of round steel with a diameter of 6-8 mm.- pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mm), they simply hammer into the bars of the crowns with a hammer, an option a on the image.

The upper ends of the dowels of any material must be deepened into the beam by 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then when the beam dries and the log shrinks, the dowels will be higher than the beam and raise the upper crown. A large gap is formed between the crowns.

For the same reason it is impossible to make clogged dowels from reinforcing steel. The corrugated surface of such dowels will keep the beams of the crowns from moving during the shrinkage of the log house, even if the dowel is deepened into the beam. The crowns will simply hang on such dowels.

Small-diameter driven steel dowels cannot always provide the necessary wall rigidity, especially with long wall spans. Their use can be recommended for small buildings - for example, baths. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install dowels of increased diameter.

Steel pins with a diameter of 10 or more millimeters, as well as wooden pins, are inserted into holes pre-drilled in the timber. The diameter of the holes is made slightly smaller than the diameter of the dowel.

With a tight fit of the dowel in the hole, the rigidity of the wall increases, but the risk that the dowels will interfere with the shrinkage of the log house increases.

Wooden pins with a diameter of 25-30 mm it is convenient to cut from round cuttings for the tool. Such cuttings are made from hard rock tree. It is recommended to chamfer the lower end of the dowel - it will be easier to drive the dowel into the hole.

Can be cut from a regular "inch" board dowels of square section 25x25 mm. Chamfers are removed from one end of the workpiece. Such pins are hammered into a hole made with a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.

The ribs of such a dowel made of relatively “soft” coniferous wood are crushed during nailing, the wood is compacted, providing a fairly tight fit of the dowel in the hole.

How to drill holes in a beam for dowels

The depth of the holes in the wall for the installation of dowels must exceed at least 4 cm. dowel length. Moreover, the hole must be free from chips.

For drilling holes in timber, deep enough and large diameter, usually use a low-speed electric drill (drill). The passport of a power tool usually indicates what diameter of drilling in a particular material the drill is designed for. Given the large drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a power reserve.

To drill holes in the timber, it is convenient to equip the drill with an emphasis, as shown in the figure.

The stop bar is attached to the drill with steel clamps.

Emphasis, in the form wooden block, attached to a drill, for example, with clamps. The stop stops drilling at the required depth, but the rotation of the drill does not stop after that. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill clears the hole of chips, grinds and then easily gets out of the deep hole.

It is convenient to drill holes for connecting the crowns in a bar that is already installed on the wall in the design position on the interventional insulation. But usually here a problem arises - the interventional gasket cannot be drilled. The fibers of the gasket material are simply wrapped around the drill and clamped.

You have to install the beam on the wall in two stages. First, the beam is mounted without a gasket and temporarily fixed from displacement, for example, with nails. Drill holes for dowels. Then the timber is shifted from the wall and interventional insulation is laid.

In places of drilling the gasket is cut out sharp knife . Then, the removed beam is reinstalled in place, already on the gasket, and fixed with dowels.

Drilling holes in a beam laid on a wall should be done while standing on a solid foundation - scaffolding, scaffolding, flooring. Stand on narrow wall and drilling is dangerous. The drill can "bite", a powerful drill will turn around and easily throw the worker off the wall.

How to make a flat wall from a curved beam

In the beam brought to the construction site, part of the beams may turn out to be curved. The beam may have curvature in one plane, or twist with a screw and become diamond-shaped in cross section.

If possible, then it is better not to use curved bars for the walls of a house or a bath. Bars with curvature are recommended to be cut into smaller pieces and used in other, less critical places.

A small amount of timber that has a curvature in one plane can be used to mount walls. You should not lay such a beam in the wall with a bulge up or down, in the hope that it will straighten out under the weight of the house - the beam will not straighten out, even if it is placed in the lower crowns.

The curved beam is laid into the wall, straightening it in a horizontal plane as shown in the figure.

The curved beam is straightened sequentially by fixing it with dowels

A curved beam is drilled, combining it at the drilling points with a straight beam. After laying the interventional insulation, the curved beam is fixed with a dowel at one end and, unbending, is sequentially fixed with dowels at other points.

It does not take much effort to unbend the beam. To facilitate the work will help the lever and bracket

Mezhventsovy gasket - insulation, sealant

For and cold, a gasket is laid between the crowns. Previously, moss or linen tow was used for this. Currently, special gasket materials based on flax or flax jute are commercially available. The material is sold as a roll of tape with a width of 20 cm.

A strip of cushioning material is laid along the entire upper edge of the beam in two or three layers and fixed with staples using a construction stapler.

If the wall is not sheathed, then the gasket should stand 1-2 from the outer edge of the beam. cm. otherwise it will get wet.

Some craftsmen lay the cushioning material in one layer and offer to caulk the joints after shrinking the log house, adding an additional amount of material to the voids of the joints. In this embodiment, we have a lower consumption of gasket material.

The work of caulking joints is quite laborious and tedious. It is better to immediately lay the seal thicker, in several layers (three layers), to eliminate the need for caulking horizontal joints.

How to control the correct assembly of the log house

In the process of building a house or a bath, it is necessary to regularly check the correct assembly of a log house from a bar. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:

• Verticality of corners.
• Height of corners and walls.
• The horizontality of the crowns and the upper faces of the timber.
• The straightness of the walls.
• The quality of laying interventional insulation.

For control of the verticality of the corners apply the following method.

To control the verticality of the angle, a vertical line is applied on each side of the crown. 1 - bottom trim; 2 - crowns; 3 - control lines; 4 - plinth.

On each side of the crown, at the same distance from the corner edge, draw a vertical line.

At correct styling crowns, this line should be straight and coincide with the vertical. The verticality of the line is checked by a plumb line.

If deviations are found, then the work is suspended and the cause is eliminated.

The height of corners and walls is measured roulette. The measurement is taken from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping beam using a water level.

Horizontal rims and top faces the timber is checked for level.

Straightness of walls determined visually by pulling a cord along the wall.

Especially carefully and constantly check the verticality and height of the corners. Deviations from verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the beam in the crown. The height of the corners is adjusted by increasing the thickness of the gasket between the crowns in the settled corners. Sometimes it helps if you knock with a sledgehammer on a beam in a high corner.

The quality and thickness of the laying of interventional insulation is checked visually by examining the walls.

Window and door openings in a log house

From the second crown, doorways begin to form. The distance from the floor level to the window is chosen within 70 - 90 cm.

Laying timber in the crowns in the zone of openings has its own characteristics.

a - layout of openings in the wall, where: 1 - wall; 2 - door opening; 3 - pier; 4 - window opening. in - scheme for cutting timber, where c - the remainder of the cutting. G - a variant of the opening device in the log house with the installation of temporary fastening beams, pos.7. d - an option with the installation of decks in the opening, pos.6 - we immediately get an opening ready for installing a door or window.

In practice, two options are used for the formation of openings when assembling a log house.

One option is " G" on the image. The opening is made in draft version, only preparation is made to create an opening. The opening is prepared for the installation of doors and windows not immediately during the assembly of the log house. This work is left for later - usually done after shrinkage of the log house.

This option allows you to speed up the assembly of the log house. Bars must be installed in the opening, fastening the wall with a log house, pos.7 in the figure. At least two such bars are installed in the doorway.

In the process of shrinkage of the log house, the walls can “take away” inward or outward. To prevent this the timber in the piers is fastened with vertically installed boards.

In another variant - d» in the figure, the openings are immediately prepared for the installation of doors and windows. To do this, decks (pigtails) are installed in the openings - a vertical beam with a groove, pos.6 in the figure. The spike of the wall beam enters the groove. In this way, the beam of the pier is fixed from displacement. In this version, the openings are immediately ready for the installation of doors and windows.

Decks (pigtails) traditionally serve not only to connect the timber in the opening, but also serve as window slopes, window sills. To do this, they are carefully processed, curly chamfers are removed.

Option for installing a window in a wall made of timber: 1 - finishing the window slopes; 2 - a board of a vertical pigtail with a rail - a spike, enters the groove of the wall beam; 3 - plastic window frame; four - sealing tape PSUL

In modern conditions, when installing plastic windows and the device of plastic slopes and window sills, decks (pigtail) can be omitted. The bars in the opening are fastened like this. A vertical groove is cut out at the ends of the bars along the entire length of the opening and a rail is inserted there, which fixes the bars of the wall from displacement.

The length of the deck (pigtail) or rail should be less than the height of the opening by 5-7 cm so as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

Timber for houses, baths in your city

How to install windows in a timber wall

If the opening in the wall was made in the draft version (see above), then the installation of the window begins with cutting the opening under right size. To do this, a rail is stuffed along the border of the cut, item 2 in the figure, and the bars are sawn off with a chain saw along the edge of the rail.

Correct installation windows in a timber wall. 1 - wall; 2 - rail; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - wall beam above the window; 7 — mezhventsovy heater; 8 - shrinkage gap above the window and deck; 9 - window frames; 10 - wall beam (wall); 11 - deck; 12 - nail.

Then circular saw spikes are cut out at the ends of the bars of the wall (wall). On the spikes, pos.10, a deck is placed with a groove, pos.11. The joints are sealed with insulation. The deck is nailed to the wall beam with nails hammered at an angle, pos. 12. So the nails will not interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

A window box is inserted into the opening thus prepared, which is attached to the deck with self-tapping screws. Above the window frame be sure to leave a gap, pos.8, to compensate for the shrinkage of the log house. Gap size 5-7 cm. The gap is filled with soft insulating material.

The compensation gap must also be left above the upper end of the deck.

Similarly, openings are prepared and inserted into the walls from the timber of the door.

After the assembly of the first floor of the house is completed, the log house is covered with beams of interfloor or attic (if the building is one-story) ceiling.

Can be constructive element. And they can perform an independent function.

The next page describes the construction of a sloping roof of a house made of timber, where floor beams simultaneously serve as an element of the mansard roof's load-bearing frame.

Watch the video clip, which describes in some detail and shows the technology for installing a log house from a construction beam.