Aerated concrete - universal material, which is also suitable for equipping fireplaces. But most often, gas blocks are used specifically to create the frame of finished cast-iron fireboxes, rather than open stoves. They lay out the base and form the body for the firebox and chimney.

As you know, aerated concrete retains heat well, but does not heat up itself. Therefore, the body of the fireplace made of aerated concrete will not heat up, and accordingly, the heating of the room will be weak and ineffective. Open fireplaces It is better to build from brick. When using a closed cast-iron firebox, the house is heated not from the fireplace body, but from the hot air that spreads through the ventilation ducts.

Therefore, aerated concrete with low thermal conductivity is excellent for this option. And given the simplicity of working with the material, many can make a fireplace from aerated concrete with their own hands.

How to make a fireplace from a gas block?

To build a fireplace from aerated concrete, you need to prepare the adjacent walls high temperatures. It is recommended to cover them with foil basalt wool- it is fireproof and will effectively retain heat inside the fireplace frame.

The firebox itself should be located at a distance of 15-20 cm from the walls for free air convection.

A base is formed under the firebox - a fireplace insert. You can make a concrete one reinforced screed up to 20 cm high, but can be used aerated concrete blocks. They are especially good for wooden floors or floors with low strength, since the weight of foamed concrete is small. The base can be strengthened reinforced mesh but it's not mandatory requirement, since a fireplace made of aerated concrete will be light.

Aerated concrete is simply and quickly processed, it can be given any shape with the tools at hand, so the base for the fireplace can be of absolutely any geometry.

For laying a fireplace made of aerated concrete, it is permissible to use cement mortar or assembly adhesive.

The foundation is plastered. Place on its horizontal surface steel sheet 2 mm thick, and under the combustion chamber - an additional fire-resistant asbestos cardboard gasket.

After the firebox is installed, it is connected to the chimney. And further ones begin construction work. Each new row is checked with a level.

In order for an aerated concrete fireplace to last a long time, it is recommended to cover the inner surface of the masonry with basalt foil thermal insulation.

The fireplace body can be completely laid out from aerated concrete up to the ceiling, leaving vent for the release of heated air. It is covered with a decorative mesh.

You can combine materials: cover the firebox with aerated concrete, and cover part of the fireplace with the chimney with plasterboard on a metal frame.

You should not immediately put the maximum load on the fireplace; the temperature is increased with each new firebox.

So, an aerated concrete fireplace is inexpensive, fast and reliable option for a private home or cottage.

To make a fireplace from a gas block, it is important to choose quality material, which has undergone autoclave processing, has sufficient strength and fire resistance. You can easily find one like this in the Porablock shopping center. It’s easy to calculate the amount of material and place an order on our website.

The time has come to explain in what ways aerated concrete is superior to other technologies, and why is a fireplace made of aerated concrete?

Today in Russia there are three main methods of building a fireplace: plasterboard, brick and potted stone. In what ways are they inferior to an aerated concrete fireplace?

Plasterboard fireplace

In a fireplace made of plasterboard, there is an RTK made of metal frame inside. During operation of such a fireplace, deformation of the RTK occurs. Which, in turn, leads to the appearance of cracks on the facade of the fireplace and on the RTK. Moreover, cracks on the facade of the fireplace do not depend on the amount of drywall with which the fireplace is lined. The RTK itself does not gain heat, since mineral wool does not accumulate heat, but reflects it. Adding to this the problem of installing decor and facing the fireplace, due to the fact that the RTK is not a load-bearing structure, a plasterboard fireplace becomes a more than unattractive option.

Brick fireplace

It may be so brick fireplace? If you consider that due to the design of the fireplace, even the outer walls do not warm up, and it will take a very long time to heat the room. large number time and resources, it is unlikely that a brick fireplace will be able to satisfy all your requirements for a fireplace. The very labor-intensive process of laying a fireplace and the high cost of the material are also not advantages for this type of fireplace. Since the variety of brick appearances is quite limited, it becomes impossible to create a completely unique fireplace for your home. This fireplace will be quite standard and similar to others. For a brick fireplace, you will have to make a separate foundation, which leads to additional difficulties and financial investments.

pot stone

What remains is the potting stone. Let's see how it can compete with aerated concrete.

From natural stone hydrotalc chloride is produced by RTK or just the lining. The production and manufacture of the fireplace takes place in Finland. In Russia, only the installation of the fireplace takes place. The potted stone no longer requires any finishing. Not bad? Of course, but since the potting stone has an inconspicuous gray color, the range of colors of your fireplace is very limited. The production of fireplaces abroad is also limited by appearance fireplace models. Custom fireplace design in this case is completely excluded. Heavy weight fireplace design will also require additional installation foundation for the fireplace.

As you can see, a fireplace made of aerated concrete has undeniable advantages in front of the other fireplaces. Custom design, simplicity, lightness of the fireplace design, low cost of materials make this technology the best today. And only the studio ArtBrown will help you create the fireplace of your dreams!

Building a house from aerated concrete is not exactly an easy undertaking, but compared to brick or the same log house, you will have to put in much less effort. We will build a simple one-story house on a strip foundation.

If you wish, you can change the characteristics of the building at your discretion - you just need to master the order of laying out the walls, all other activities are carried out as standard for houses made of any materials.

Construction kit

• 0.1 Construction kit
• 1 Making the foundation
  • 1.1 Marking the site
  • 1.2 Preparing the trenches
  • 1.3 Digging trenches
  • 1.4 Installing the formwork
  • 1.5 Laying the reinforcement
  • 1.6 Pouring concrete
  • 1.7 Building walls
  • 1.10 Interfloor armored belt. Photo
  • 1.11 We arrange windows and window sills
  • 1.12 Making jumpers
  • 1.13 Making an armored belt
• • 2.1 Video - Do-it-yourself aerated concrete house

1. Band saw.
2. Drill.
3. Hand saw.
4. Manual wall chaser.
5. Mixer.
6. Electric cutter.
7. Scraper bucket.
8. Carriages for glue.
9. Notched trowel.
10. Rubber hammer.
11. Sanding float (board).

Making the foundation

Marking the site

We remove everything that is in the way from the site, clear it and begin marking. To do this, we use reinforcing bars and rope.

We determine the axis of the future structure. We take a plumb line and mark the first corner of the foundation. Perpendicular to it, we pull the rope to the second and third corners of the building.

Using a square, mark the 4th corner. We measure the diagonals. If the length is the same, everything is fine, the angles match, you can hammer in the rods and pull the rope.

We similarly carry out the internal markings of the base, departing from the external one by about 400 mm (the optimal width for a strip foundation).

We dig trenches around the perimeter of the house and under future internal walls.

Preparing the trenches

We find the lowest point on the site. From here we measure the depth of the hole. small house can be built on a 40-centimeter tape. For the rest, focus on the features of the structure and the site as a whole (freezing depth, groundwater level).

Digging trenches

Important! The walls of the pit should be vertical and the bottom should be level. We check this with a plumb line and level.

Place a sand cushion at the bottom of the hole and compact it thoroughly. Such a pillow will help to evenly distribute the load on the base in the off-season. Recommended thickness – from 15 cm.

Pour crushed stone onto the sand and lay roofing felt.

Installing formwork

We assemble it from boards, plywood and other similar materials. We fasten the formwork elements using nails or screws.

Important! The height of the formwork is such that it rises above the ground level by at least 300 mm.

We stretch the fishing line along the inner perimeter of the formwork at the level of the upper edge of the future fill.

At the same stage, we think about the arrangement of openings for the entry of water supply and sewerage. To do this, we lay empty pipes in the right places and fill them with sand.

Laying the reinforcement

We take rods with a diameter of 12-14 m. We tie them into a mesh using flexible steel wire. 7 mesh meshes can have different size. The heavier the house, the smaller the side of the square should be. Most often, a mesh with cells of 20x20 cm is sufficient.

We make a grid according to the dimensions of the trench. Important! We leave 5-centimeter gaps between the laid reinforcing layer, the walls and the top of the trench, so that in the future all reinforcement is guaranteed to be filled with concrete.

Pouring concrete

We multiply the width of the foundation by its length and height and determine the required volume of concrete. Prepare or order the mixture. For preparation we use the standard recipe:

• cement – ​​1 part;
• crushed stone - 5 parts;
• sand - 3 parts;
• water - to the desired consistency.

Fill in concrete mortar in even layers of approximately 200 mm, do not rush. We compact each layer of fill with a wooden tamper. We pour concrete to the level of the previously stretched rope in the formwork space.

We level the pouring surface using a trowel and pierce the concrete with reinforcement in several places. From the outside, carefully tap the formwork with a wooden hammer.

We give the foundation a month to gain strength. During this time, we cover the structure with polyethylene to protect it from precipitation, and hot weather spill with water to prevent cracking.

Building walls

For construction in this example we use blocks with a tongue-and-groove design. They are simply more comfortable to carry with your hands. You can build from any other aerated blocks - the order of work does not change.

Pre-clean top part dry the foundation from existing dirt and dust, and then cover it with a layer of roofing felt.

For the first row of luggage we use cement-sand mortar. It dries longer than special glue, and we will have the opportunity to adjust the evenness of the row layout. The minimum layer thickness is 10 mm. There are no maximum restrictions. This will allow you to even out differences in height without much effort.

We find the highest angle - we will build from it. We take a fishing line and mark the wall of the house. We lay the first gas block. Then we place a block at each remaining corner and stretch the rope between the building elements.

Be sure to check the evenness of each block. We lay out the first row of blocks around the perimeter of the house and in the places where the internal walls are being built.

Important! Remember about door openings. Naturally, we skip them.

We take polishing and carefully grind the surface of the starting row. Next, we will do this with each laid row. Thanks to this treatment, we will be able to apply the glue as evenly as possible.

We put the second, and after it the third row. We use special glue for laying gas blocks. We work as on the first row, starting from the corners. We tie the rows, moving them halfway across the block - like brickwork. Minimum valid value such a shift when laying aerated concrete is 80 mm.

To apply glue we use ladles with teeth. We install the blocks as close to each other as possible, as far as our fingers allow, and move them end to end. We check the evenness of the masonry with a level. If necessary, align the blocks using rubber mallet. We work quickly and smoothly, because... The glue dries very quickly and it will be almost impossible to move the gas block.

Useful advice! If, when laying the opening, it was not possible to reach the length of the entire gas block, we saw off the excess using a special saw or a simple hacksaw for wood.

Interfloor armored belt. Photo

We equip windows and window sills

In the example under consideration, the window sills have a height of 4 rows of masonry. We reinforce window openings after laying out the 3rd row. A wall chaser will help us with this.

In the place where the window opening is arranged, we cut 2 parallel lines. Their length should extend beyond the boundaries of the window by 300 mm on each side.

We lay reinforcement bars in the grooves and secure them cement-sand mortar. Ready! The wall for installing the window is reinforced.

Important! It is better not to block openings for installing windows. Of course, in the future they can be cut out, but this extra waste time and effort.

Wall masonry. In the photo, decorative brick cladding is being done at the same time as the walls are being laid.

Making jumpers

Gradually we approached the lintels. These structures are needed to strengthen the section of the wall above the door and window openings. Without jumpers, the structure may simply collapse.

Then “permanent formwork” of three rows of blocks: 1. Outside, a block with a thickness of 150; 2. in the center is a block 150 thick, sawn in half lengthwise; 3. The inside of the block is 100 mm thick.

We cut it into “squares” and tie reinforcing bars to them

You can either use ready-made U-shaped blocks (glue them to the required length, install them, lay down reinforcement and fill them with cement mortar) or make the formwork yourself.

For the manufacture of formwork, it is most convenient to use gas blocks 10 cm wide. We fasten the blocks with glue. If it is not possible to buy 10-centimeter blocks, we simply cut a regular gas block into 3 identical pieces.

We glue the blocks to the required length, make 3 longitudinal ditches with a wall chaser, lay reinforcing bars in them, pour in cement mortar and give it a day to dry.

We install the jumpers with the side with the reinforcement facing down. We fill the gaps with gas blocks, if necessary, pre-cut to the required sizes.

Making an armored belt

After arranging the row with window lintels, we begin pouring the armored belt, also known as the seismic belt. The structure is made of reinforced concrete and ensures the integrity of the aerated concrete building.

We take 10-centimeter blocks and form them into formwork around the perimeter of the walls. We fill the ditch with reinforcement and pour cement mortar.

We embed metal pins into the armored belt for attaching the Mauerlat. We can make them from reinforcement. An even more convenient option is threaded studs. It is easier to attach the Mauerlat to them.

At this point the box at home is ready.

We have already installed the Mauerlat. It's time to install the rafters. At this stage, everything is individual - focus on the features of the chosen roofing structure.

Several options are available:

Regardless of the chosen roof structure, it must be equipped with insulating layers: hydro-, heat- and vapor barriers. IN in some cases(for example, when setting up residential attic) a layer of soundproofing material is installed.

We fix it on top of the rafters waterproofing material. The most convenient way to do this is with wooden slats. At the same time, the slats will play the role of a counter-batten, to which the sheathing slats for the roofing material will later be fixed.

Under the waterproofing, we place insulation in the space between the sheathing slats. The most commonly used is mineral wool. If desired, you can choose another material (expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam, etc.).

We cover the thermal insulation with a layer vapor barrier film. We attach it to the rafters using wooden slats.

Finally, we lay down the finishing roof covering. At this point, focus on your available budget and personal preferences. Most popular materials:

• slate;
• bitumen shingles;
• corrugated sheeting;
• metal tiles;
• ceramic tiles.

Any roofing material lay it starting from the bottom. As a result, the sheets will be secured so that sedimentary moisture can drain without penetrating under the roofing.

At this point, the box of aerated blocks with a roof is ready. Further installation work awaits you. engineering communications and finishing, but this is a topic for a separate guide.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself aerated concrete house

How to turn ordinary house into a cozy, comfortable, simply pleasing to the eye, with an atmosphere of warmth, lightness, into a house where all its residents want to return. What can become the center of the home and a place for family and friends to communicate? A fireplace is one of the solutions, and if you build a fireplace with your own hands, the value increases a hundredfold.

And therefore, this matter must be approached with great responsibility, calculate each stage of the work, take into account numerous requirements and small nuances, do not forget about fire safety, and, of course, put great love into everything. Only then will the fireplace bring benefits and true pleasure.

Which fireplace to choose?

Each era is characterized by its own design of fireplaces; they never go out of fashion, but the outlines, shapes, lines, and materials from which they are made change. If you previously chose wood and marble for exterior finishing then today it is huge selection finishing materials. Relevant themes are classics, minimalism, empire style, royal tiles, hi-tech, urban, country, original and amazing. Which one to choose? On solid fuel, electric, or maybe gas? Built-in or wall-mounted, or maybe corner? Open or closed type?

So, where to start to lay out a fireplace? We need to determine what kind of fireplace we need and what it should look like. Here are the demands we put forward:

1. The fireplace must be functional, i.e. workers.
2. With good heat transfer (efficiency).
3. With a closed firebox under glass (safety).
4. Corner fireplace (space saving).
5. On solid fuel.

We are making a list of what we need in further work:

• cast iron firebox 590/515 cm;
• fireplace facing tiles;
• decorative facing tiles;
• fire brick;
• tile cutter;
• set of spatulas;
• rubber spatulas;
• comb for “combing” the solution;
• aerated concrete blocks 250/600 mm;
• heat-resistant glue “reinforced”;
• pipe according to the diameter of the furnace outlet;
• sheet iron 1.5-2 mm (various scraps);
• grout for facing tiles heat-resistant Ceresit;
• hacksaw;
• angle grinder (impeller);
• welding machine;
• level 2m.

Today the market is presented a large number manufacturers offering ready-made .

A firebox made in France, Rubis, measuring 590/515 cm, is quite suitable.

Preparing a place for a fireplace

Clean and level the surface. From fire bricks We prepare a base with a size equal to the diagonal of the corner and a width equal to the width of the cast iron firebox, and leave it until completely dry.

The next stage of work is installing the firebox on the base and installing the chimney pipe

For greater heat output, pieces of sheet iron are welded onto the chimney pipe connecting the firebox to the chimney in the wall. Please note special attention for tightness of connections.

We lay out the entire fireplace wall up to the ceiling from aerated concrete blocks. Why did we choose aerated concrete blocks, because this material has a porous structure with high thermal insulation properties and quite good strength.

The process of laying a fireplace is not quick, and you have to lay it one level at a time in order for everything to dry well. Be sure to ensure that the surface is even, and do not forget to leave pre-designated niches for air circulation behind fireplace wall. Approaching the ceiling, we gradually tilt it forward at a slight degree, and, not reaching 5 cm from the ceiling, we finish the work.

Thus, we leave a gap between the ceiling and the fireplace wall for air circulation.

We clad the fireplace with stone-like tiles.

Having reached the top of the wall, we glue another row of tiles onto the ceiling itself, giving the fireplace wall a slightly curved appearance. It gives the impression of a single wall extending into the ceiling. We also line niches. Three of them will be designed as shelves and another one will be a niche for storing firewood. A chimney pipe will be visible in one of the niches.

Then we will place some object in front of it (a vase, a figurine or any other decorative item).

Grouting joints

This is a jewelry work that requires great care, since the grout is facing stone difficult to remove due to its roughness. Before work, clean all seams from glue, dilute the mixture in small portions, since the mixture sets quickly, apply with a rubber spatula. After drying, be sure to wash the tiles until they are completely clean.

Having laid out the fireplace, we lay out a step in front of it, 15 cm high and 30 cm wide, also made of aerated concrete blocks. We cover it with ordinary decorative tiles.

For what? Burning wood that accidentally falls out of the firebox will not fall on the floor surface; this will give it a finished shape once and twice.

A fireplace we built with our own hands.

If you have country house, then having a fireplace is a noble cause, you always want to sit next to it in the circle of family and friends, but what about in a city apartment? Give up the dream of him? Thought about decorative false- the fireplace came to people’s minds a long time ago, but not everyone knows the intricacies of this simple matter. Studying furnace science, of course, is not required, but there are still some subtleties and nuances. The material will be the same favorite and well-known durable and reliable foam concrete. To build it, you need to purchase: foam blocks, special glue, putty, trowel, wood slab, spatula and hacksaw. The material is quite good, light, lends itself perfectly to a regular hacksaw, first you need to choose a place for it, to simulate fire in it, you also need to take care of the wiring. Select suitable sizes For him, if living conditions allow, it is best to make a sketch in order to have a better idea of ​​how a fireplace made of foam blocks will fit with the rest of the interior.

Masonry

A foam concrete slab with a base height of no more than 10 cm is laid on the floor using glue. vertical blocks for side walls, for a wider structure, foam blocks should be laid horizontally. The block is sawn well, so it can be sawed into bricks to create an imitation brickwork, fasten the parts with the same glue, or a mixture of sand and cement. After installing the side walls, a block slab is glued on top, which will serve as the top shelf, frame structure ready. If the space for the firebox is too large, then the front part is cut out plywood sheet, also a window to fit the size of your firebox; the vault can be made into an arch or simply flat. Tile sheets, like blocks, are also seated with glue; for the front panel, you can use corrugation, coat it well with glue and apply putty, coat the entire surface with it, especially the seams and joints. Using a spatula, the composition is placed on a trowel and then a layer of putty is applied from bottom to top, leave the first applied layer until completely dry, the next layer will be the finishing layer. When the work is dry, go over it with sandpaper and you can decorate.

How to properly finish

The fireplace is called decorative, so due attention should be paid to the decoration, it should become a decoration of your home and such a thing is within your power. Its texture can be made very varied using putty; using a foam sponge, the putty is applied in jerks and a kind of rough surface is obtained. If you want something more, use acrylic paint dark color, the surface is painted and immediately wiped with a dampened rag, then, lightly touching it, walk over it with silver or gold paint, thereby creating a speckled plane. For decoration, you can take drywall and cut out rectangles in the shape of bricks, but make the shape incorrect, and the laying of foam blocks will seem old. Fill the sides and top with a spatula, deliberately making the surface uneven, and after drying, paint it in the color you like. There is a special beech-colored putty on sale, intended for wood. Make an imitation of a stone surface, to do this, perform chaotic, disorderly movements, apply putty to the side parts of the fireplace using a spatula, imitate masonry with a small stick and leave until dry. The result will be a stone texture; for a natural look, you can paint the masonry with black or dark brown acrylic.

Conclusion

Thus, building a fireplace from foam blocks yourself in your apartment is not at all difficult; high-quality foam concrete is not difficult to find in a store today, and for a false fireplace it is best choice. Show your imagination and surprise your relatives with your skills. They will be pleased with you.