7023 0 0

Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements and practical recommendations

Regulatory documentation

These building regulations are an updated version of an older document - SNiP 2.04.01-85.

Let's take a look at the basic requirements of a joint venture related to private construction. Let me comment on some points based on my own experience:

• To drain wastewater into general sewerage closed gravity pipelines should be used;

Sometimes the terrain makes it necessary to use sewage pumps.
In this case, the pump must be installed in a buffer tank, allowing the sewerage system to be operated for a limited time in the absence of power supply.

• Pipes are laid in a straight line, without bends. The direction of the laying can only be changed using connecting parts;

This fully applies to pipes made of cast iron, PVC and polypropylene.
Polyethylene allows laying with some bending (up to approximately 10 angular degrees).
It retains elasticity even at subzero temperatures, so there is no need to worry about cracks and pipe destruction.

• The slope of the gasket must be constant;

This instruction is due to the fact that when the slope changes, solid fractions of wastewater will be retained in areas where it is minimal.
As a result, the likelihood of blockages will increase.

• To connect the horizontal section with the riser, it is strongly recommended to use oblique crosses and angles. The exception is crosses, the bends of which are located in two different planes;

This will greatly simplify cleaning if clogged.
A cable or wire, resting against the opposite wall of a straight tee, can fold or move in the direction opposite to the blockage.
An oblique tee will guide the cleaning tool in the direction of the drain movement.

• Two baths on the same floor can be connected to a common riser only through an oblique cross;

This is necessary so that during a volley discharge of water from one bath, water does not flow into another.
If the bathtub piping is not hermetically sealed, an overflow of the sewer can lead to flooding of the bathroom.

• For sewerage, it is recommended to use pipes and fittings with a service life of at least 25 years and hydraulic characteristics that remain unchanged throughout the entire service life. Polymer pipes are preferred (PVC, polypropylene, polyethylene, etc.);
• In the basement, the internal sewage system is laid openly. In residential premises it is allowed to embed it in the floor, walls, ducts and shafts;

If possible, it is better to leave pipes accessible for inspection and repair. In my practice, I have encountered blockages that could only be cleared by cutting out a section of the riser.
The most typical case is a large fragment of thick glass stuck between the walls of a cast iron pipe.

• The place where the risers pass through the ceiling is sealed to its entire thickness with cement mortar;

IN wooden floor Polyurethane foam is used for the same purpose.
The goal is to reduce the spread of sounds between floors, including through the sewer pipe itself, which in certain conditions serves as an excellent resonator.

• It is not allowed to embed pipes into ceilings living rooms and kitchens;
• Scheme internal sewerage in a private house should include ventilation risers (fan pipes), which are connected to the upper points of the system. The drain pipe is installed 20 cm above the roof at a distance of at least 4 meters from the nearest opening window. In this case, the exhaust part of the riser should not be thinner than its waste part;

• Installation of deflectors on the drain pipe is prohibited;

With all due respect to the authors of the joint venture, this requirement is not always worth fulfilling.
The deflector will indeed limit draft in calm weather, but it will protect the sewer from wind-borne debris and prevent precipitation from getting into it during a rainstorm.
For cesspool owners who pay for waste removal, the latter is quite important.

• On a roof in use, the exhaust riser rises above its level by at least three meters;
• Device house sewerage should provide for the possibility of mechanical cleaning in case of blockages. For this purpose, revisions or tees with plugs are provided. In a private house, they are located at the bottom and top of each riser, at the beginning of each straight section with three or more plumbing fixtures, as well as at turns;

• On long straight sections, revisions or tees for cleaning are located in increments depending on the diameter of the pipeline:

Diameter, mm	Pitch, m
50	8-12
100 — 150	10-15

• If the level of the sides of the plumbing fixture is lower than the hatch of the nearest yard sewerage well (for example, when located in the basement or basement), the corresponding section of the sewerage system is completed sewer gate or an automatic fecal pump;
• All hydraulic devices are equipped with water seals that prevent sewer gases from entering the premises;

The connections of elbows and siphons with the sewerage system are carefully sealed with rubber sealing couplings. Otherwise, gases will enter the room through the sockets.

• Several washbasins (up to 6 pieces) and several shower cabins or trays can be equipped with a common siphon with a diameter of 50 m, equipped with an inspection or hatch (lid) for cleaning;
• The recommended installation height for plumbing fixtures in the general case (in the absence of people with mobility limitations in the family) is:

Practice

Diameters

For bathtubs, washbasins, sinks, shower cabins, urinals, washing and dishwashers The diameter of the connected sewerage is 50 mm. For toilets - 110 mm.

These diameters are sufficient for any reasonable number of plumbing fixtures connected in parallel to the sewer, including two bathtubs in one room, subject to simultaneous volley discharge.

Noise

The sound of water flowing in pipes is unlikely to give you much pleasure. A number of simple recommendations will help you avoid it.

• If possible, lay horizontal sections of sewerage in the subfloor, basement or behind false walls. It is better to place risers in technical or utility rooms;

• Where the riser passes through the living space, cover it with a plasterboard box or wall panels . It is advisable to fill the box sound-absorbing material(as a rule, mineral wool is used for this purpose); as an option, the riser can be wrapped with foam roll insulation;
• Instead of thin-walled pipes made of PVC or polypropylene, it is advisable to use polyethylene pipes or the so-called silent sewer. Thanks to the mineral filler and variable layer density, it effectively absorbs acoustic vibrations. The price of such pipes, however, is 2 - 4 times higher than that of conventional PVC, in addition, some manufacturers use their own diameter system, which is incompatible with conventional vinyl fittings;
• Use sound-absorbing clamps to secure the riser equipped with porous rubber gaskets.

Installation

How to properly assemble a sewer system from plastic pipes with your own hands? Here are the basic installation rules:

• The pipeline is laid with a constant slope of 2 cm/m for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and 3.5 cm/m for a diameter of 50 mm. Any counter-slope will become a place of constant blockages: it will collect silt and fatty deposits;
• The mounting points of a horizontal pipe should be no more than 8 to 10 pipe diameters apart from each other. If you increase the pitch between the clamps, the loose sections will sag in a year or two, forming sections with a counter-slope;
• Vertical pipes are secured with clamps under the necks of the sockets. This fastening will prevent them from moving under their own weight.

Pipe sockets and fittings must be directed against the direction of flow of drains. In this case, there will be a minimum number of irregularities inside the pipe, onto which large-sized debris (papers, rags, etc.) that get into it can get caught.

The easiest way to cut a pipe is with a grinder. Any abrasive wheel can be used for cutting. When working indoors, do not forget to protect your lungs with a gauze bandage: breathing plastic dust is a less than average pleasure.

After cutting, be sure to clean the inner surface of the pipe from burrs and chamfer the outside. The burrs will begin to collect sewage-borne hair, fabric fibers, and other debris. The chamfer will significantly facilitate the assembly of the connection.

If the pipe enters the socket with great force, lubricate it with liquid soap or any other lubricant. water based. Do not use machine oil or other fuels and lubricants for lubrication: they will cause the seals to crack.

For hidden installations (in boxes and false walls), it is better to assemble connections using silicone sealant. Even if the seals lose their elasticity, it will not allow the socket to leak.

Ventilation

It really is necessary. Instead of lengthy discussions about the movement of sewer gases in pipes, I will simply share own experience.

During the construction of the second floor, I brought the sewer system to the septic tank without installation, based on the fact that with the height of the system being only 4 meters, significant draft would not arise in it. In addition, all connections between plumbing fixtures and sockets were carefully sealed.

No such luck: after some time, a characteristic sewage smell appeared in the attic toilet. As it turned out, the following happened:

1. When flushing the toilet, a stream of water rushed down the riser, at some point blocking the entire lumen of the pipe;
2. The vacuum that arose in the upper part of the riser sucked water out of the bathtub siphon, disrupting the operation of the water seal;
3. The lack of water in the siphon opened the way for septic tank aromas to enter the bathroom.

The problem was quite predictably solved by installing a drain pipe at the top point of the sewer system.

Heating

In regions with warm climates, open laying of sewer sections is often practiced. Thus, in Crimea, with its average January temperature of +3C, you can often find sewer pipes laid between the house and the well along the ground surface. Laying pipes providing drainage from the second floor along the facade is also practiced.

Having looked at other people’s buildings, I also laid a section of internal sewerage to the septic tank along the facade: I didn’t want to spoil the ceiling and the renovated first floor with a riser.

Alas, and in the warm climatic zone there are frosts. In the very first winter, the operation of the in-house sewage system showed that it was impossible to do without insulation at all: already at -10C the drains began to freeze.

The problem was solved by installing a self-regulating one. It is a conductive matrix that increases resistance when heated and decreases when cooled. As a result, the lower the temperature, the greater the heat transfer, the more the pipe on which the cable is attached heats up.

The installation was done like this:

• The cable is glued to the bottom of the pipe with aluminum tape. By reflecting infrared radiation, it significantly reduces unnecessary heat loss;
• Since aluminum tape is extremely fragile, the cable had to be additionally secured with polyethylene ties.

Several turns of cable are also used to heat the open septic tank.
The main requirement for installation is to leave the end sleeve and heat shrink between the cable and the cold end outside the drain container.
They are aggressive and destroy the heat-shrinkable tube within a year or two of use, but vinyl cable insulation perfectly tolerates prolonged contact with a chemically active environment.

Conclusion

As you can see, sewer installation is not extremely complicated. You can learn more about it by watching the video in this article. Please share your own experiences in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

July 14, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Many people who want to live in an individual building are interested in a separate sewer system for a private house: how to properly construct a pipeline system for discharging and discharging dirty liquid. However, you should immediately decide whether it will be possible to install the system sewer pipes independently or required professional help from the outside.

In order to save money, it is possible to build a sewer system with your own hands, since it is not very difficult. The main argument in favor of the device local sewer is the presence or absence of a central highway. With the existing central sewer close to the house, laying a sewer system in a private house will not cause any difficulties.

Due to the labor-intensive nature of the work process, the greatest effort is required for external sewerage in a private house. It is necessary to dig several trenches to lay pipes in them to a depth of 50-150 cm. In other words, the laying depth is provided below the soil freezing level in winter period. If there is no route near the house central system, which means there is nothing left to do but consider an autonomous sewage system in a private house. There are several options for doing this yourself. They will be discussed further.

Arrangement of your own sewerage system should take into account the following points:

• residents will be in the house periodically or live here all the time;
• the number of residents regularly present in the housing;
• marking of occurrence of natural waters;
• the size of the site, whether there will be enough space to use it for the construction of treatment plants;
• soil features near the house;
• weather conditions of this area.

More information can be gleaned by studying necessary sections in SNiP and SanPin.

Drainage systems in an individual home are divided into categories:

• storage (bottomless cesspool in the form of a regular pit, closed storage with a bottom);
• treatment facilities (1-2- and 3-chamber septic tanks, septic tank based on a biofilter, with regular air supply).

Construction of a private sewer network

Preparatory period

Before you begin installing a sewer system in a private house yourself, it makes sense to thoroughly plan the wastewater disposal device and prepare project documentation, how to install a sewer system in an individual house. The optimal solution in terms of convenience is one in which the kitchen and bathrooms are located nearby in the house being built. And if these premises are close, the points where the pipeline exits to the street.

In a house with two floors, it makes sense to place bathrooms one below the other. This simplifies the installation procedure for internal sewerage and its subsequent repair. Difficulties will arise if there is a bathhouse and a swimming pool in private housing. At large quantities bathrooms and large volumes of wastewater will require a sewer pump.

If possible, a minimum of connections, joints and junctions are provided on internal sewerage networks. When creating a design for drainage networks, it will not be superfluous to take into account the landscape features of the territory. The guideline when choosing a location for a septic tank should be the requirement that it be located at the lowest point, and the pipeline must run obliquely. When deciding on the option for installing treatment facilities and the depth of the external pipeline, it is important to know the height of the location groundwater on the site and the depth of soil freezing.

Sewer diagram for individual housing

The sewerage scheme consists of two components:

• internal with a pipeline inside the house and with all the plumbing fixtures;
• external, which includes a well, a pipeline outside the boundaries of the house and an installation with treatment facilities.

You can get help in drawing up a diagram of a small individual home by contacting specialists. Although it is possible to draw up a diagram yourself for a house of one or two floors, the main thing is to stick to the basics. When developing a schematic image, one should proceed from the location of the main collecting pipe and riser, since sewer pipes are laid out from them.

What do you need to draw up a sewerage diagram in your own home?

• draw up a large-scale plan of the house;
• clarify the locations of risers;
• mark all plumbing fixtures on the plan;
• take into account how they will connect;
• depict all the pipes that connect the riser with all plumbing fixtures (planning is carried out separately for each floor);
• calculate the dimensions of the riser and waste pipe;
• calculate by adding the length of the pipeline adjusted for output;
• draw up a diagram of the external sewerage system.

A diagram for the sewerage of your two-story house is presented. It shows that the pipe goes into a septic tank or storage tank at some angle.

Another thing is the first septic tank. The list of its advantages is much wider. The volume of the septic tank is calculated based on the number of people living in the house. When 3 family members live in a house, the volume of the septic tank is equal to 2-3 cubic meters. Despite the fact that the average consumption per day per resident is 250 liters, the sludge lasts three days.

Sewer pipeline layout

Construction of internal networks involves optimal choice from PVC or PP pipes with a diameter of 50 mm and 110 mm gray. Their transportation and installation are simple, affordable, and no specialized equipment is required for installation. Compared to cast iron counterparts, they are more durable and not too expensive. For them, choosing the necessary elbows and tees is not difficult. In places where they are joined, a special plumbing sealant is used.

For external networks, a special type of pipe is produced with a distinctive orange color. Due to the fact that they absorb significant loads from the gravity of the soil, their degree of rigidity is quite high. Sometimes a corrugated two-layer pipe is used.

It is advisable to provide space for a riser in the toilet. The option of open or hidden installation is possible. The connection between the internal networks and the riser is made through various adapters and tees. Compound sewer pipes with plumbing fixtures such as bathtubs and sinks, they are performed with the participation of collectors. To avoid the appearance of unpleasant odors, water seals are used.

In general, the length of toilet drains should not exceed 1000 mm. To remove them, polypropylene or PVC pipes 110 mm each. Waste liquid from the bathroom and kitchen is discharged through PVC pipes (diameter - 50 mm).

Another type of septic tank is represented by a sealed container with large dimensions, from which waste liquid is periodically removed by pumping with a sewer machine. This method is simpler than the previous one. To do this, they dig a hole in the area near the house and install a sealed container in it that receives waste liquid and waste from the entire home.

From inside the room, all pipes should go horizontally from the plumbing to the riser at an angle of 2-15 cm/meter. To ensure reliable turns, it is better to use 2 elbows (45 degrees) or 3 elbows (30 degrees), but not 1 elbow (90 degrees). Then the blockage is less likely to appear, and the cleaning process becomes much easier. The toilet is connected to the riser separately. This will make it possible for the plumbing siphons to be emptied of drain water.

Connection of other devices is made above the toilet. Risers on any floor are equipped with inspection hatches. To ensure normal sound insulation, they are covered with mineral wool or covered with a plasterboard box.

When installing external network pipes leaving the house are collected together and connected to street sewer. If the drainage system is planned before the construction of the foundation has begun, then a sleeve must be installed in it, in the place of which a pipe with a diameter of 140-150 mm will be installed. To install an external network, dig a hole to the freezing depth of the soil and lay it on the bottom. sand cushion and when maintaining a 3% slope, pipes are laid. If it is impossible to provide for a greater laying depth, the pipeline is insulated. At the junction of external and internal network install an inspection hatch in the pipe - check valve. This will protect the internal system from contamination by runoff from the street when the septic tank overflows. The septic tank is placed in an area of ​​3-4 m² near the local area.

Ventilation device diagram

Considerable importance is attached to the fan pipe. She is responsible for the complete ventilation of the system and the proper operation of the septic tank. It also supports internal atmospheric pressure, protecting the network from water hammer and air rarefaction. Ventilation allows you to extend the life of the system and the efficiency of its operation.

The fan pipe is a continuation of the riser. They take it out onto the roof of the building and install an audit in the area of ​​the joint. It is not allowed to combine the ventilation of the sewerage system with the general building ventilation system or chimney. If possible, the outlet of the fan pipe should be moved some distance from the door and window openings, balconies. On the roof, the minimum indentation should be 70 cm. Ventilation and chimney outlets should be arranged at a different height.

Treatment facility options for waste disposal

The sedimentation of heavy impurities in wastewater is provided in a septic tank - a settling tank. Following this, the exiting liquid is purified in a filtration well, where, along with mechanical purification, biological purification also occurs.

Such a container can be purchased ready-made in a store or made with your own hands from metal, plastic or any other material at hand. It is also possible to mount it from concrete rings, also laying out the bottom and attaching a metal hatch. The main thing is that the container is absolutely sealed. Cleaning with a sewer machine is carried out at intervals depending on the amount of wastewater. If 4 residents regularly live in a house, using a bathroom and toilet, sink, washing machine, the minimum capacity of a sealed storage tank is 8 cubic meters. The need for cleaning is once every two weeks.

A sealed cesspool is another option for how sewerage is arranged in a private house, suitable for high groundwater levels. At the same time, the land and water sources near the house are relatively safe from the possibility of pollution. However, a significant disadvantage of this type of system is the frequency of calls for sewage disposal equipment. Therefore, even during the construction of the system, you should choose a convenient location for the container so that the car can simply drive up to it. The hole should not be dug below 3 meters from the surface of the ground so that the cleaning hose can reach the bottom. The lid should be insulated to prevent the pipeline from freezing. The cost of such a sewer system in your home will be entirely determined by the type of material from which the storage tank is made. The most economical option is to buy used Eurocubes; the most expensive option is to pour concrete or brickwork. However, we should not forget about the cleaning costs.

By drawing up a detailed pipeline layout diagram, you will be able to save significantly on reducing the gap from the plumbing to the riser.

The clearance of the pipes should increase with the connection of each subsequent device. There should be no points in the wiring, and the pipes should be laid with an inclination towards the riser or septic tank. On all floors there should be a tee-revision in the riser, which will allow clearing blockages that occur from time to time.

In order to understand how to make sewerage in a private home efficient and convenient to use, it is necessary to understand the classification of systems. Features of their design and maintenance, installation nuances and cost of equipment largely determine the choice. Great value It also has precision in performing work at all stages.

Types of sewer systems

Sewer systems can be classified according to various parameters, primarily by:

• method of transporting wastewater through communications,
• type of waste disposal.

Depending on where the wastewater is sent, sewers are distinguished:

• diagrams with insertion into centralized systems,
• Autonomous systems with individual storage devices or recyclers.

Depending on the method of transporting wastewater, systems are distinguished:

• gravity sewers (movement through pipelines is carried out due to their inclined position),
• pressure sewers (transportation of wastewater using pumping equipment),
• combined sewers, combining the features of pressure and gravity systems.

It is cheapest to install a sewer system in which wastewater moves by gravity, however, in some cases the layout of the site is such that the sewer horizon is higher than the place where the house is located. It is impossible to lay pipes with the required slope in such a situation, just as in the presence of rocky soil, which does not allow significant deepening of the pipeline.

In such cases, fecal or drainage pumps, however, it is impractical to ensure the movement of wastewater using pumping equipment throughout the entire sewer system in a private house. More often optimal solution is a combination of pressure and gravity sections in one sewer system.

Types of recyclers

Before you begin installing and laying a sewer system with your own hands in a private house, the system is designed and, first of all, a disposal method is chosen.

All possible options in this regard can be divided into two types:

• (cesspools),
• treatment facilities (depending on the type of device, cleaning can be carried out completely or partially; in the second case, periodic pumping of the remaining waste will be required).

Note: There is another sewage option - in which part of the wastewater is drained into the soil. But this design can only be used for small volumes waste water, less than 1 cubic meter per day, and is most often located in dachas or country houses with periodic residence and low groundwater levels.

Various designs can be chosen as a treatment facility for a private home.

• Septic tanks cost less and perform partial wastewater treatment. They may require additional ground treatment (reducing the content of impurities in the water during its drainage) and pumping out the sludge component after partial decomposition of the impurities and settling of the wastewater.
• Biorefinery stations- these are expensive and quite large structures with complex technical equipment and the need to connect to power. After the purification cycle, sewage is converted into safe water suitable for watering plants (up to 98% removal of impurities) and fertile sludge (it can be used as fertilizer).

Important: The volume of a sewage treatment plant is calculated using the formula: the number of residents is multiplied by 200 liters and all this is multiplied by 3.

Interior of the sewer system

Do-it-yourself installation of a local sewer system in a private house involves not only the selection and construction (installation) of a waste disposal unit and the communications lines leading to it, but also the installation of internal wiring and installation of the necessary equipment.

The main elements of the internal part of the sewerage system are:

• plumbing equipment,
• household water-consuming units (including dishwashers and washing machines),
• pipes (in most cases, products of 32-50 mm are used, and for a toilet - 110 mm).

Reception, collection and transportation of wastewater from household appliances and plumbing equipment is carried out using pipes. Their installation can be done in various ways.

• With open installation, communications are fixed to floors, walls and ceilings using.
• When laying pipes in a closed way pipes are installed inside walls, as well as in ceilings under the floor.

The installation method is selected depending on the design of the building, the requirements of the connected units (in some cases, hidden supply is unacceptable), as well as taking into account aesthetic considerations and ease of maintenance.

To ensure free flow of sewer contents and prevent blockages, it is necessary to install pipes with a certain slope. This value depends on the diameter of the pipes.

• For a diameter of 50 mm, the optimal slope is 3.0 cm per meter of line.
• For a diameter of 110 mm these values ​​are 2.0 cm, respectively.
• For 125 mm – 1.5 cm.

There are certain rules that must be followed when installing internal sewage systems.

• When connecting to risers plumbing equipment The outlet of the unit should always be located above the point where the outlet is inserted into the riser.
• Pipelines no longer than 10 meters are laid in the ceiling, otherwise it will be difficult to detect and eliminate defects (leaks, blockages).
• The connections to the risers are made using fittings (crosses or tees).
• The connections of branches to straight sections of pipelines are always carried out at oblique angles; turns at right angles are made with two 45° fittings, which minimizes the possibility of blockages.

Used vertically as a riser installed pipe, the diameter of which is more than 110 mm (should not be less than the largest outlet, which is usually a 110 mm outlet from the toilet). The riser must be equipped inspection hatch, which is located at a height of 1 m from the floor level. The distance from the toilet to the riser is a maximum of 1 meter.

The connection of the internal part with external communications is carried out using an outlet, which is contained in a protective sleeve and a section of pipe passing through the foundation, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the riser.

The diameter of the sleeve should be about 150 mm, and its edges should extend beyond the foundation on both sides by 100-150 mm

Sewer ventilation system

Ventilation of the internal sewerage system ensures the removal of generated gases and the flow of air to fill the system. With intensive drainage (large volume or flow rate), low pressure zones are formed in the pipelines. Subject to availability effective ventilation such a space is quickly filled with air, the pressure balance is restored. Otherwise, the system will “suck” air through the siphons of nearby plumbing fixtures. As a result, the operation of the system will be accompanied by loud sounds and the appearance of unpleasant odors in the room.

Ventilation of internal sewerage is carried out using a drain pipe, which is structurally a continuation of the riser (if the house is large and the plumbing is installed separately, at different ends, it is advisable to install several risers and, accordingly, several drain pipes).

Exited to the roof through the heated internal space so that its edge is located above the pipes heating devices and general output ventilation system Houses.

The drain (ventilation) pipe is a continuation of the sewer riser and goes to the roof

For those who are interested in how to properly make a sewer system in a private house with their own hands, it is useful to know that the presence of a drain pipe for one-story buildings not necessarily according to established Rules, however, such an addition significantly increases the efficiency and ease of use of the system.

External communications

For the external part of the sewer system, it is important to choose the right pipes.

Do-it-yourself sewerage construction in a private house is usually carried out using PVC pipes, ordinary or corrugated products. Despite their light weight, they are quite durable and can withstand temperature changes. Besides, polymer materials absolutely immune to corrosion.

The depth of the trenches for laying external sewer pipes must be greater than the freezing level of the soil. If it is impossible to fulfill this condition, you should think about how to insulate the sewer system in a private house with your own hands. Typically, thermal insulation materials are used for these purposes, for example, Energoflex or extruded polystyrene foam. A more expensive option is to lay a heating electric cable next to the pipeline.

As in the case of internal communications, the efficiency and reliability of the external part of the sewer depends on ensuring the required slope towards the storage tank or disposal unit. If the diameter of the tubes is 110 mm, optimal angle the slope will be 2 cm for each meter of communications length.

When choosing a location for a wastewater treatment plant on a site, you must adhere to certain rules regarding the distance of the sewerage system from various objects

Unpleasant odor and its elimination

The appearance of a sewer smell in the room indicates a malfunction of the system.

To protect your home from similar phenomena, it’s not enough to know how to make a sewer in country house, it is necessary to ensure high-quality maintenance of the system, to be able to identify and eliminate defects in a timely manner.

The appearance of sewerage smell in the house is most often caused by increased pressure in the sewer lines. Under its action, gases are forced into the space of the rooms. As elimination measures, it is recommended to carry out a set of measures:

• install siphons with water seals on devices,
• clean the pipes (plugs blocking the lumen are one of the most common causes of malfunctions, and if the blockage is incomplete, such a plug may not reveal its presence in anything other than an odor).

The smell can also appear as a result of a leak in the sewer system. Check all connections thoroughly and eliminate even small leaks.

The end of the second decade of the 21st century suggests that in a modern private house, including a dacha, a latrine is somewhat more technologically advanced than a modest wooden booth at the end of the plot. It is therefore not surprising how advanced sewer systems have become today for country houses and materials for them. And all this is quite affordable and feasible for a home craftsman to install with his own hands.

Any system for drainage and disposal of wastewater in a residential building, no matter how small it may be, needs to build a diagram that will demonstrate the size of the system on a scale and help in choosing:

• the type of plumbing and its placement, including additional suppliers of wastewater, such as a bathhouse;
• internal pipe routing route;
• exit points of the sewer system from the building;
• passing the sewer line outside the building;
• type of equipment and its location on the site;
• materials needed to create the system.

The diagram also displays pipe diameters, their connection options and other information that is necessary for assembling the internal and external components of the sewer system.

Types of sewer system

The most popular sewer systems today are based on the use of:

• cesspools;
• storage tanks;
• two-chamber septic tanks;
• septic tanks with filtration;
• septic tanks with biofilter;
• septic tanks with forced air supply.

Did you know?As archaeologists have established, the world's earliest outlines of sewerage systems, which appeared in Mesopotamia, are almost five thousand years old. However, a sewer system reminiscent of the modern one appeared in Ancient Rome in the 6th century BC.

The time-tested method of draining wastewater is simple and cheap. To construct a cesspool in the form of a well without a bottom, concrete rings, bricks and similar materials are needed.
Since the bottom of this well consists of bare soil, household liquid waste flows through the well onto it, seeps out and begins to be cleaned. The more solid fractions of this waste are retained in the pit and precipitate. When a lot of them accumulate in the well, cleaning is required.

This system operates reliably and justifies its existence if the volume of wastewater from the house per day does not exceed a cubic meter. This amount allows microorganisms in the soil to cope with the processing of organic elements and thereby purify the water entering the soil through the bottom of the well.

When this volume is exceeded, the water no longer has time to be purified and begins to pollute. groundwater. It makes sense to build a cesspool if the dacha is not visited a large number people only on weekends. In any case, this primitive type of sewer system is becoming less and less popular among country homeowners today.

A container for receiving waste waste installed near the house can be made of plastic, brick, concrete, or metal, provided that the container is hermetically sealed.

This is especially true for land plots where the groundwater level is high. A hermetically sealed tank will protect both the soil and groundwater from contamination. The only inconvenience of this system is its dependence on frequent calls for vacuum cleaners, which is why the cost of its operation is quite high.

This device consists of two tanks, the first of which is equipped with a sealed bottom, and the second is not equipped, being covered with a layer of sand-crushed stone mixture from below.

Did you know?The all-round genius Leonardo da Vinci even invented a flush toilet in 1516. But even the French king could not bring the revolutionary idea to life, since at that time there was no water supply or sewage system at all.

The wastewater flows into the first tank, where solid organic matter sinks, fatty particles rise to the top, and partially purified water is located in the middle.

Both volumes are connected to each other by a pipe with a slight slope towards the second tank. According to it, which has already partly become more clean water flows into the second tank. And there it, passing through the sand-crushed stone mixture, as well as through the soil, is further purified.
It is clear that in the first compartment, which is a sump, masses of waste gradually accumulate in order to eliminate which it is necessary to resort to the services of sewer trucks.

But it is recommended to equip a second container only when there is at least a meter distance from its bottom, filled with a mixture of crushed stone and sand, to groundwater. Moreover, this sand-crushed stone mixture needs to be changed every five years.

It consists of a tank divided into several sections connected to each other by slightly inclined pipes. As a rule, such a tank is manufactured at the factory.

The first tank is used to settle liquid waste. From it, partly clarified water flows into another compartment of the container. And there, anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic elements make the water even purer, after which it flows into the third reservoir.
And from it, through the ground, the water reaches filtration fields specially created from a sand-crushed stone mixture, where it is purified up to 80% and discharged into special ditches or containers. This method of treating liquid waste is advisable only where there is a large area of ​​land.

After all, only from the filtration fields to the house or source of drinking water the distance should be at least 30 m. Plus, the filtration sites themselves occupy a lot of space, although they are underground. In addition, groundwater should in this case rise no higher than 3 m.

This type of purification device is different in that it can be used on land where the groundwater level is high. It is a tank consisting of four sections connected to each other by pipes with a slight slope.

In the first tank, the wastewater settles and flows into another compartment in the form of partially purified water. There, the water is further purified using anaerobic microorganisms and, in a more clarified form, is sent to the third separator compartment, and from there to the fourth.
And there it is already treated with aerobic bacteria. They need constant influx fresh air, coming here using a pipe that is brought out to a height of half a meter. Thanks to the treatment with these bacteria, the water reaches a purity of up to 95% and is quite suitable for watering plants, washing cars and other household needs.

This method of sewage treatment is most in demand in country houses with people permanently residing there, since bacteria need a continuous supply of liquid waste, without which they die. And although bacteria can easily be added to the system through the toilet, it will take about two weeks for them to fully restore their full activity.

This installation, using electricity, significantly enhances wastewater treatment. It does this by forcing atmospheric air, for which an electric pump and an air distributor are used.

This type of purification device can consist of one tank divided into three compartments, or three different tanks connected to each other through inclined pipes.

Primary purified wastewater from the first compartment is poured into the aeration tank, which is the second section. There is aerobic sludge, supplemented by plants and microorganisms. It is they who require a forced supply of fresh air.

After this, the more purified liquid, together with the sludge, is poured into a third container, where, after settling, it undergoes better cleaning, and the sludge that is in the sediment is returned to the aeration tank using a pump.
Forced air serves as an effective catalyst for the process, resulting in water being purified much faster and more efficiently.

And although the installation consumes little electricity, it nevertheless requires an electrical network, which is partly its disadvantage. The operation of this system also requires continuous residence of one of the household members in the house.

How to install a sewer system with your own hands

With a high-quality diagram of the future sewer system and the availability of all the necessary materials, you can proceed directly to its phased construction.

There are three stages, which include:

• installation of an internal sewerage system;
• laying pipes outside the home;
• construction of treatment facilities.

Video: home sewerage

Pipe and riser routing

Indoor wiring includes horizontally placed pipes connecting plumbing fixtures to a vertically standing pipe, which is the riser. And it connects to the main line that carries sewage to the outside.

Ideally, it is advisable to combine the installation of a sewer system with the construction of a house, but it is quite possible to assemble the wiring located inside in an already built house, especially if it is small.

In this case, the following requirements should be adhered to:

1. Since wastewater from plumbing fixtures is discharged by gravity, the pipes that go from them to the riser must be laid with a certain slope.
2. Sanitary equipment must be separated from pipelines by water seals in the form of siphons, which are a curved pipe with water constantly in it, which does not allow odors to penetrate from the sewer into the premises.
3. The pipe connecting the toilet to the riser should not exceed 1 m.
4. The intra-house sewer system requires ventilation, for which the riser is discharged outside with a slight elevation above the roof.

Important!The toilet must be connected to horizontal wiring in the lowest part of it on the floor.

Pipe routing

If pipes are laid in an already built house, then there are three ways to lay them:

• by scraping, they make ditches in the walls into which the pipes are hidden;
• lay them on the floor;
• fixed to the walls using clamps.

The pipeline is assembled, starting from the riser and ending with the plumbing. The main thing when laying horizontal pipes is to establish the required angle of inclination.

The larger the pipe, the smaller the angle should be. For example, with a pipe diameter of 50 mm, one end of its meter section should be 30 mm higher than the second, and with a diameter of 200 mm, this elevation is only 7 mm.

Video: routing sewer pipes At first glance, it seems that the greater the slope of the pipeline, the better the drainage will flow through it. However, in reality, excessive slope causes water to roll down the pipe too quickly, and the harder parts of the wastewater cannot keep up with it and are retained in the pipeline.

Installation and assembly of the riser

The installation of an internal sewer system begins with the installation of an intra-house collector in the form of a riser. In its lower part, the riser is connected to a pipe that passes through the foundation and carries the wastewater outside, and at the top it is crowned with ventilation rising above the roof.

Important! The best option, when there is only one riser for the whole house.

Installation and installation of the riser are carried out in the following sequence:

1. On the wall, where the future riser will pass, you need to draw its axis with a pencil. If desired, a recess is made in the wall, the width and depth slightly exceeding the diameter of the riser pipe. When attaching the pipe externally to the wall, clamps and brackets are used. The fasteners should be installed under the sockets connecting the pipes; the distance between the fasteners should not exceed 4 m.
2. Then it is necessary to pre-assemble the riser and attach it to the wall to check whether all dimensions were correctly observed, taking into account the fittings for connecting the horizontal part of the system. Installation locations are immediately determined fastening elements, if provided external installation riser on the wall. It should be taken into account that the pipe cannot be installed close to the wall; the gap between them must be at least 3 cm.
3. Having eliminated all errors in the installation of pipes, the riser is assembled using seals and secured with clamps, if external fastening is provided.
4. Next, you need to connect the riser to the pipe that leads the wastewater outside. And the upper end of the riser can be connected to a waste pipe rising above the roof.

Video: tips for installing sewer risers

Fan pipes used for ventilation of sewerage systems connect the internal system with external environment by helping:

• remove harmful and foul-smelling gases generated in the sewer system into the atmosphere;
• support required pressure inside the system.

For all their usefulness, vent pipes are not at all necessary in all house constructions without exception. In a small one-story country house, where the volume of wastewater is small, it is quite possible to do without this device. But in large houses, with two or more floors, with a considerable number of residents, fan devices are certainly necessary.

They work on the principle of sucking atmospheric air into the sewer system when the air inside it is rarefied. In this they are helped by vacuum valves, which just let in atmospheric air when its pressure in the system drops, but prevent the gases accumulating in the system from escaping outside.
Fan pipes with vacuum valves are installed on the roofs of buildings, where they usually rise 20 cm above the roof. Sometimes this ventilation is installed in the attics of buildings.

The sewer outlet is a system of pipes that is located under the foundation of the house and serves as a continuation of the riser. It is an intermediate link between the in-house collector and the external part of the sewer system.

The most difficult point in its installation is the exit to the outside under or through the foundation to connect to the external pipeline.

The outlet equipment requires pipes of the same diameter as the riser, as well as bends that transfer the vertical pipeline to a horizontal position, in which it is discharged through the foundation to the outside.

The external sewer network starts from the outlet coming out of the foundation and goes to the treatment device, where it delivers liquid waste from the house.

To install an out-of-home sewerage section, you should adhere to the following rules:

• the external pipeline must be located at such a depth that it does not freeze in winter;
• if it is not possible to dig a deep trench, the pipe must be insulated;
• Every ten meters on straight sections of the pipeline and at its turns it is necessary to install inspection wells.

Apart from digging a trench to a frost-free depth, laying the pipe does not require much effort:

1. First, the trench is prepared, which consists of the required depth and slope towards the cleaning device.
2. A 10-centimeter layer of a mixture of sand and clay is poured onto its bottom.
3. A pipe is placed on top of this layer.
4. The gap between it and the walls of the trench is also filled with this mixture.
5. The trench is filled with previously excavated soil.
6. The landscape damaged by these operations is being restored.

Ancient cesspools without a bottom are now used less and less. Instead, storage and cleaning devices are used. The first of them is a large tank, hermetically sealed, as a result of which its contents do not come into contact with the surrounding soil.

Video: choosing a septic tank for a private home

This component of a suburban sewer system is most rationally used in areas with high level groundwater, as well as in country houses and dachas, which are visited infrequently and by a small number of people.

If the country house is large, equipped with many types of plumbing and is constantly inhabited by a large number of residents, then it is necessary to install a septic tank with soil-based wastewater treatment or with forced aeration.

Device

The storage type of sewer system works very simply: liquid waste flows into a reservoir and accumulates in it without coming into any contact with the surrounding soil. After the container is completely filled with wastewater, it is necessary to resort to the services of vacuum cleaners to remove it.

Both large factory-made plastic tanks and those made independently from brick, concrete, concrete rings or iron barrels welded together are used as storage tanks.
Various types Septic tanks are more complex. They consist of several sections, in the first of which solid waste elements precipitate, undergoing anaerobic treatment by microorganisms, and partially purified water flows into the next section, where it is purified using in various ways filtration.

The choice of one type of septic tank or another is determined by the level of groundwater on the site, the size of the site itself, as well as the house, the number of permanent inhabitants in it and the plumbing fixtures they use.

Construction

For construction storage tank follows:

1. Dig a pit.
2. Install a concrete base in it.
3. Build a brick wall around it, providing a hole for the sewer pipe in its upper part. On top of the concrete cover there should be another hole for the vacuum cleaner hose, which should be tightly closed at all other times.
4. Instead of bricks, you can use concrete rings or welded metal ones.

Video: building a septic tank For the construction of different types of septic tanks, concrete rings, metal containers, Eurocubes and other plastic tanks are used.

They are mounted differently, but their installation is largely similar:

1. First you need to dig a pit, which should be about half a meter larger in length and width than the container installed in it.
2. Then the bottom of the pit should be leveled and covered with a 2-centimeter layer of sand.
3. Concrete and plastic containers require concreting of the base.
4. After this, you need to install the tank.
5. The installed tank must be connected to pipes, through one of which sewage is supplied, and purified water comes out of the other.
6. Then, if necessary, it is possible to add water purification elements using soil.
7. Hatches should also be installed.
8. And finally, you need to fill the container with previously removed soil.

Alternative options

If someone does not want or is not yet able to install a sewer system in their country house or dacha, they have the opportunity to do without it using dry closets. They are autonomous devices that do not require connection to the sewerage system.

Currently, there are many types of such toilets, but the most popular among them are:

Peat, as is easy to understand from the name, use special peat with bioactivators for composting waste products. In liquid, special solutions are used to speed up the processing of waste products.

And electric ones, the most expensive, separate waste into solid and liquid fractions, the first of which are then dried, and the second are disposed of.

Despite the apparent complexity this process installing a sewerage system in a house with your own hands is quite possible home handyman. With a correctly drawn up scheme future system, availability of materials and a great desire to bring the plan to life, success, as practice shows, almost always comes.

Was this article helpful?

Thanks for your opinion!

Write in the comments what questions you have not received an answer to, we will definitely respond!

Separate design section engineering communications– planning of the sewerage system. Owners of cottages and country houses Often you have to independently draw up a diagram and install equipment, so knowing the nuances of organizing work is simply necessary.

The efficiency of the system largely depends on whether the sewerage installation in a private house is done correctly - internal system pipes and equipment connected to them. For competent design, it is important to take into account everything: from the choice of components to the material used to manufacture individual elements. And we will tell you how to do it correctly.

Unlike electricity, gas, and water supply systems, which are installed in accordance with documentation certified by certain authorities, sewerage is on its own plot of land and it is allowed to equip the house without permits.

However, one cannot do without a project, as it will protect against errors associated with violation of generally accepted requirements.

For example, one of the common violations is failure to respect boundaries sanitary zone when installing a drain pit. The supply and drain systems must not come into contact with each other.

Option for arranging communications in a private one-story house– external water supply and sewerage systems are located along different sides from the building

The installation of internal wiring is often associated with errors in the organization of ventilation, incorrect choice of pipe diameter or angle of inclination.

The construction of an axonometric diagram is usually carried out by specialists. They also produce hydraulic calculations internal network and backbone located with outside buildings. Now there are more interesting option– creation of a sewerage model in 3D format.

3D modeling programs allow you to create an accurate and complete project that simplifies the selection of pipes, fittings, fasteners, and installation methods as much as possible.

They turn to specialists for a project when they want to reduce risks. But there is another option - study sanitary and technical standards, familiarize yourself with internal wiring diagrams, learn to understand the quality of plumbing equipment and draw up a project yourself.

Placement of important system components

The peculiarity of an autonomous sewerage system is that the principles of its arrangement depend on each component in common system.

For example, the criterion for choosing a wastewater storage tank is not only the number of people living in the cottage, but also the number of connected sources for draining technical and household water - from the house, garage, bathhouse, summer kitchen.

Work planning and scheme selection

The installation of sewer pipes is usually carried out together with the installation of a water supply system; accordingly, it is better to design these two systems together.

If we summarize all the documents that make up the project and try to act according to the rules, we will get the following list:

1. General data - description and conditions for installation of water supply and sanitation systems based on regulatory documents.
2. Explication of the premises (explanation of the diagram) indicating wet areas and the method of waterproofing them.
3. Calculation of water consumption and wastewater disposal volumes taking into account standards.
4. Floor plan for the location of the water supply system and axonometric diagram.
5. Floor plan for sewerage location.
6. Specification - listing all constituent elements indicating the quantity or footage.

You can refuse to install additional ventilation equipment, but provided that private house no higher than 2 floors, and the load on sewer network minimal.

If many people live in the building, the number of bathrooms is more than 2, the wastewater is discharged into treatment plant, then installation of a drain pipe is required. Thanks to it, the atmosphere in the house will be healthy, and the water from the water seals will not disappear anywhere due to the pressure difference in the network.

Features of wiring in a multi-storey building

The number of risers does not increase due to the presence of the 2nd or 3rd floors, but the connection diagram becomes more complicated, since outlets are present on all floors. For multi-storey buildings there is a “code” set out in SNiP documents.