A water seal is a traditional element of the sewer system that creates a barrier to unpleasant specific odors. Nowadays, he has a promising rival - a dry siphon for sewage. To install a dry model, you should find out how the siphon works and on what grounds it is chosen.

Principle of operation and advantages

The device is a vertical or horizontal tube with a polypropylene body and threaded shanks. One of them is connected to the plumbing fixture, and the second to the sewer pipe. Inside the housing there is a shut-off device that operates on the principle of a check valve. When the washbasin or shower is not in use, the valve closes the pipe section and does not allow the smell from the sewer to pass through.

A siphon with a dry seal (unlike a water one) also plays a regulatory role - it does not allow waste water to move in the opposite direction. This function is especially important for plumbing fixtures mounted on the lower floors of apartment buildings: in the event of blockages, the liquid is often returned to the building by reverse current. If the room is semi-basement, the rise of sewer drains can lead to its flooding.

The siphon with a check valve has a number of positive features:

• reliable in operation, does not require regular checks;
• does not need water - therefore it is widely used in rooms without heating;
• made of polymeric anti-corrosion material that meets all technical requirements;
• easy to install, does not take up much space, allows vertical and horizontal installation;
• prevents stagnation of water in the drain and, accordingly, the reproduction of microbes harmful to human health;
• durable;
• does not create noise during operation.

A big plus of a dry siphon is its resistance to blockages. The drain pipe is used only during valve opening. Contaminated drains pass unhindered into the sewer, fat does not have time to deposit on the walls and does not form traffic jams. A dry water seal is especially useful in the country: it does not freeze in winter, it does not require abundant flushing to eliminate stagnant odors.

Varieties

Shutter models differ in size, design and purpose (dry siphon for sinks, toilet bowls, shower drains).

By design features, siphons are divided into several groups.

1. Membrane. The role of the valve in it is played by a spring-loaded membrane. Under the pressure of the liquid, the spring is compressed, opening the sewer hole for the free passage of sewage. When the pressure disappears, the membrane returns to its original position and ensures tightness.
2. float. In fact, this is a combined model, which is a combination of hydraulic and dry options. The design consists of a siphon with a vertical outlet with a float valve inserted into it. When there is enough water in the water seal, the float stays afloat and allows runoff to pass through. If the faucet is not used for a long time, the liquid in the drain dries up, the valve drops and clogs the hole.
3. pendulum. In this design, the valve is fixed at one point. Passing drains put pressure on it, forcing it to deviate from the axis. When the pressure stops, the pendulum returns to its previous position under the influence of gravitational forces and closes the hole.

Recently, models of dry locking devices with working elements made of materials with molecular memory have appeared in the trading network. Thanks to this property, the valves work flawlessly and tightly seal the drain.

To purchase a suitable model, pay attention to several key points.

1. The water seal must have a certain nominal diameter to ensure sufficient throughput, depending on the volume of wastewater. For a washbasin, a diameter of 50 mm is sufficient, for a bath or shower - at least 100 mm.
2. If two washbasins are located on opposite sides of the wall, each of them is provided with a separate device.
3. For a dishwasher or washing machine, a product with the possibility of side mounting is selected.
4. In order to avoid blockages, it is better to equip a kitchen sink with greasy drains with a bottle-type water siphon.
5. Ladder with dry siphon for shower. It should be noted that horizontal-type models do not require a large margin in height, since their own does not exceed 10 cm. For vertical varieties, a gap of at least 15 cm should be left.
6. The shower drain is chosen by design: a protective grate made of plastic or stainless steel with shaped holes can play the role of a decorative element.

Finally, to verify the functionality of the siphon, a small amount of water is poured through it.

The following tips will help you avoid mistakes when assembling plumbing fixtures yourself.

1. The purchased device is checked for the presence of gaskets and the quality of their installation - without distortions, with a fairly tight fit.
2. A special annular rubber gasket is placed between the sink and the dry seal so that there are no leaks at the junction.
3. Install a siphon, treat the joints with silicone sealant.

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Sewer shutter: varieties, installation rules, familiarity with samples

In this article, I will introduce the reader to an element of valves that is relatively rarely used in residential construction - a water seal for sewers. We will find out what it is for, how it works and get acquainted with the rules for mounting the shutter. In addition, I will introduce you to several product samples from the world famous manufacturer - Hutterer & Lechner.

In the photo - a shutter opened for maintenance.

Why is it needed

The withdrawal of sewage outside the building, with rare exceptions, is carried out below the ground level. There are several reasons for this:

• Soil temperature. Below the freezing level, the soil has a temperature of 8 - 12C, which allows you not to be afraid of pipes freezing;
• Protection against mechanical damage, which provides the deepening of the output to the well;
• Finally, buried pipes do not clutter up the yard, do not create barriers to transport and pedestrians.

At the same time, the basement and basement floors of many buildings are used for warehouses, administrative premises, gyms, etc. Often, plumbing fixtures are mounted in them, and their sides are significantly lower than the well cover.

When the collector or yard sewer is clogged, the level begins to rise. Much earlier than it reaches the level of the well cover, drains begin to flow to the plumbing fixtures in the basement.

We are talking about the drains of the entire house, or even several houses, since the exploited basement floor turns out to be the lowest point in the sewer network, which is backed up by blockage.

Sewer check valves and gates exclude the backflow of sewage: as soon as they begin to enter the building from the outside, the pipe lumen is completely blocked.

Varieties

Shutters can be divided into two main categories - mechanical and electrified. Within each category, in turn, several more subspecies can be distinguished.

Mechanical

A typical modern mechanical shutter is a polymer housing in which a profiled stainless steel shutter is movably fixed. Its normal position is closed; the shutter is oriented with its concave side towards the shutter inlet.

The shutter must be oriented relative to the direction of movement of the drains in a strictly defined way.
The direction of wastewater flow is usually indicated by an arrow on the housing.

The shutter cover is removable. The hatch is necessary for servicing the damper and cuffs, which ensure its tight fit to the seat.

During normal operation of the sewer, the pressure of the sewage raises the damper; in counterflow, the overpressure at the outlet, on the contrary, presses it tightly against the seat seal.

Since the speed of movement of effluents in a gravity sewer is low, dirt inevitably grows on the sealing cuffs over time. Accordingly, the shutter needs to be cleaned.

It is carried out in two ways:

• Once every three months, one or two buckets of water are poured into the toilet, located as close as possible to the valve. A volley of discharge provides the movement of water at a high enough speed to flush the sealing collars;
• Once every six months - a year, the valve hatch is opened, and the seat with cuffs is cleaned mechanically. You can clean them with your own hands, using a regular toilet brush, or with a stream of water from a hose. The technological hatch cover is removed without the use of tools.

On sale you can find several subspecies of mechanical shutters:

1. Single chamber;
2. Single chamber vertical;

The sewer drain with a dry seal is a special case of a single-chamber vertical valve.

1. Single-chamber, providing for manual fixation of the damper;

I have come across the use of a conventional wedge water valve with a diameter of 100 mm, welded into a sewer gap, as a manual lock valve.
Despite its considerable age, it perfectly performed its functions in case of blockages in the yard sewer.
Garbage that fell under the cheeks was simply ground up when closing.

1. Two-chamber (with manual fixation of the damper in one of the chambers).

Electrical

How is a typical electrified shutter arranged?

• It is equipped with two cameras. One chamber is equipped with a conventional mechanical shutter, the second - with an electric drive;

The mechanical damper provides for manual fixation in the closed position.

• The filling sensor located inside the housing is responsible for the actuation of the electric drive;
• Each chamber is equipped with its own maintenance hatch;
• The control unit monitors the position of the valve and transmits information about it to the dispatcher;
• If necessary, the motorized shutter can be forced closed;
• Optionally, the shutter is equipped with a battery that can support its operation in standby mode for a week.

Samples

Now let's get acquainted with several representatives of the line of sewer closures from Hutterer & Lechner (HL).

Mechanical

electrified

Mounting

Here is a brief instruction for mounting different types of valves:

1. The sewerage of the basement or basement should be a separate network and have its own outlet to the well. Its connection to the sewerage of the upper floors will lead, if the well is clogged, to the inevitable flooding of the basement. The outlet to the well, in fact, is equipped with a sewer gate;

It is advisable to use electrified models capable of signaling to the dispatcher about the backwater flow.
When using mechanical shutters, a situation often arises when toilets and sinks continue to be used for their intended purpose after blockage.
As a result, the basement is drowning in its own sewage.

1. With proper technical justification, the sewerage of the upper floors can be connected to the same outlet to the well after the shutter. At the same time, the risers are mounted without revisions in the basement;
2. Electrified shutters are installed only in enclosed spaces. Their installation in wells and on the street is prohibited for reasons of electrical safety;

For the same reason, it is forbidden to pass storm drains from the roof of the building through the electrified gate.

1. Checking the functionality of the valves should be done monthly. Leak test and maintenance (in particular, cleaning the damper seat) - once every six months;
2. Do not forget that when the yard sewer is backed up and the shutter is actuated, the area after it automatically becomes pressurized. The outlet pipes to the well and, most importantly, the connections between them must withstand a pressure of at least five meters without depressurization.

Conclusion

I hope that this review will help the dear reader to choose the best solution for their own needs. The video in this article will traditionally offer additional information to his attention. Please feel free to comment and add to this material. Good luck, comrades!

July 4, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Sewerage is a complex communication system, the purpose of which is the collection and withdrawal of domestic wastewater. In order for the system to work without interruption and meet the needs of users, it is equipped with special devices. One of them is a water seal for sewerage. Despite its small size and simple design, it fully justifies its purpose - it provides comfortable living for residents.

At a length of 48 km, the Phase 1 network of the deep sewer tunnel system in Singapore passes through the significant geology of the island. Conditions range from soft, compressible clays to loose, high-pressure sands, to zones of very hard, highly abrasive, fresh granite, and areas of fully decomposed rock. Conditions vary in some cases from meter to meter with menacing mixed edges in between. All impose the skills and abilities of people and machines.

The sixth and seventh vehicles passed a few weeks later as the last of them continued to struggle through difficult mixed ground conditions in the north. For the most part, the 48-kilometer alignment divides into two geological zones. For the other 30% polymers were needed to create a plug in more permeable, lower standard permeable soils.

Wherever the sewer network is located the hydraulic lock, its purpose remains the same:

• block water hammer to reduce the load on sewer devices and pipes;
• prevent the penetration of unpleasant specific odors into the living quarters.

If the water seal (or siphon) is chosen correctly, a favorable atmosphere reigns in the house, and the sewer network goes without repair for a long time.

The finding was discovered during the additional site investigation work required by each contractor's construction contractor after contract award and prior to commencement of construction. T-05 southern drive Herrenknecht. On the downside, as a client, we have less direct involvement than is possible under normal development and staking contracts. However, we are pleased with the design building experience and will continue to take the same approach for future projects. There is limited wiggle room for contract project development teams.

The designs of different types of water seals are different, but all of them in one way or another are pipes with bends of a certain shape, sometimes equipped with additional dead-end or dynamic devices.

Evaluation and alignment of tunnels are fixed and the use of certain methods such as dehydration. In addition, in all cases the contractors had to have their projects reviewed by an independent reviewer before they came to us for final review and approval. For the most part, the strategy worked. Cases of surface settlement above such a large tunneling distance, due to ground conditions of a known perfidious nature, and under ground ground transportation infrastructure had little and no impact - both by Singapore and by international standards.

The water screen is permanently in the siphon. If you do not use the device (kitchen sink or toilet) for a long time, the water will evaporate, and eventually the smell will still appear. The same will happen when you flush for the first time after a long absence. But with constant use, the volume of water in the water seal is constantly updated, which prevents stagnation, respectively, and the appearance of an unpleasant "aroma".

The same applies in reverse. In addition, granite is very abrasive. The discs break on impact with hard massive rock protrusions in mixed faces, and others wear into several flat spots after being pinched and fired in succession by microchips from massive massive stone housing in the hulls.

In the T-05 contract, a significant part of these interventions must be carried out with compressed air up to the maximum pressure of 4 bar allowed by Singapore law. However, the hydrostatic pressure was higher and at one time ground freezing was required to provide sufficiently stable conditions for intervention. The maintenance also required repair of excessive wear on the auger conveyor, cutting head and body structure. The space between this and the leading bulkhead is one big castle in the air.

However, when choosing a corrugated option, you should be aware of its only, but significant drawback. The ribbed walls of the pipe seem to be designed to collect debris: food debris, hair, pieces of soap, sand and other dirt get stuck in them. Given this, when installing the corrugations, the drain must be provided with a filter in the form of a fine mesh grid.

If you do not clean the corrugated water seal for a long time, under the influence of dirt and excess weight, it loses strength and elasticity. Over time, the folds wear out, begin to crack and let water through. Having installed a flexible siphon, be sure to monitor its condition and clean it in a timely manner. The contamination of the pipe can be guessed by the sags that form in places where fat and debris accumulate.

The principle of operation of the overflow

Another type of siphon - with overflow - can also be distinguished into a separate category, since it is necessarily equipped with an additional pipe. The main purpose of the overflow equipment is to protect the apartment from flooding if, for some reason, when the tap is open, the water stops going down the drain.

The sinks on which this device is installed have an additional hole - in the upper part of the bowl, under the mixer. When the level of water accumulated in the sink reaches a critical level, the liquid begins to flow into this hole and further into the water seal

Be sure to equip bathtubs with an overflow system. This method prevents flooding, but, unfortunately, does not contribute to savings. If you want to take a bath and forget to turn off the faucet in time, the water, having reached the overflow level, will safely leave the tank and go into the sewer - along with your money for paying utility bills.

On the market are presented as economical options made of plastic, as well as more durable, but less elastic metal models. The disadvantages of brass-bronze equipment are the complexity of installation and high cost. When choosing a device, do not forget to inquire about its throughput. If the overflow cannot cope with the volume of excess liquid, it is useless and even dangerous.

Dry shutter design

The design of the so-called "dry" shutter is fundamentally different from hydraulic counterparts. It works on the "nipple" principle and is a threaded pipe with a check valve installed inside. As a result, the water entering the device cannot flow back, just like the smell has no chance to leave the pipe.

The installation of such devices is justified on the lower floors of multi-storey buildings, as well as in places where water is used less frequently (in baths).

Dry shutters are fundamentally not installed in kitchen sinks, the use of which provokes the creation of blockages as much as possible. But the devices work efficiently and last a long time in do-it-yourself shower cabins.

The “dry” type shutter does not need the constant presence of water inside the body. Even if it functions in conjunction with the knee device, it does not need to be controlled or adjusted.

There are several types of dry devices:

• membrane, overlapping after draining the water with an elastic membrane;
• pendulum, gravitating to instantaneous closure if no liquid enters;
• float valves that close the hole when water leaves the drain (acting like a cistern valve).

The latter are often made independently, equipping the sewer wiring in the baths.

The simplest is the principle of operation of a float valve. The light weight keeps the float on the surface of the water. As soon as it drains, the float goes down and blocks the drain

If the sewer communications suddenly dry up due to rare use, thanks to the dry shutter, the unpleasant smell will not bother you.

How to choose the right water seal

If you are installing or changing plumbing fixtures (bath, sink or toilet), you will definitely need a siphon. To select a device that is fully consistent with plumbing, it is necessary to take into account a number of factors, including:

• assembled device dimensions;
• siphon type;
• the material from which the pipes and fasteners are made;
• number of drains or additional connections;
• protection against blockages;
• inlet and outlet diameter;
• the presence or absence of overflow.

Suppose, for washing in the kitchen, the most suitable option is a bottle model that traps food particles. You can also use a knee device, but then all the waste will flow into the sewer pipe, and over time there is a risk of blockage.

If the project is to install a sink or washbasin with two sinks, a device with two drain points will come in handy. The principle of its operation is the same, the difference is only in the design.

Before buying, be sure to measure the size of the space where the installation will be made. It happens that the siphon simply does not fit in the allotted place (this is especially true for the tight gap between the bathroom and the floor). If you choose the right water seal, there will be much less problems with its installation and repair.

Installation instructions for automatic siphon

Installing a hydraulic bottle seal under the kitchen sink is quite simple, under the bathroom it is a little more difficult due to the inconvenient location of the drain system. We present the installation instructions for the automatic siphon for the bathroom - an advanced device, the installation of which can be done by hand.

A complete set can be purchased at your nearest plumbing store. It consists of three significant parts: 1 - plastic construction water seal + corrugated pipe; 2 - details for overflow design; 3 - fasteners for draining

First we equip the overflow hole. To do this, take the elastic gasket that comes with the kit and insert it into the hole on the wall of the tub. Silicone sealant can be used for a tighter seal.

We fix the overflow structure in the hole, winding the chrome element from the outside. It is equipped with a rod on which the lamb will be held.

Then we take the next part - the lamb - and try to carefully fix it on the stem with a bolt. To do this, you need a small flathead screwdriver that can penetrate the small hole in the side of the lamb.

We put the lamb on the stem, insert the end of the screwdriver into the side hole and, with a little effort, but very carefully, tighten the fixing bolt

We pass the plastic part under the bathtub and insert the end with the rubber gasket into the hole. From above, in the resulting hole, we place a standard chrome part with a mesh

Among the fasteners we find a long fixing screw, which is responsible for fixing the siphon, and we screw it in from the top side, holding the structure from below.

First, we tighten the screw with our hands, then we tighten it with a key, but very carefully so as not to strip the thread. After completion, we check the strength of the installation

It remains to screw the water seal. First, we string a rubber gasket onto the plastic drain outlet, then insert the knee valve. We tighten the outer plastic nut - the design is ready.

In order to ensure the functioning of the sewage system at the proper level, it is necessary to equip a water seal. This design prevents the spread of unpleasant odors, and is also an obstacle to the spread of water hammer that can compromise the integrity of the pipeline.

Article content

The main functions of the water seal

The siphon provides a difference in pressure levels at the inlet and outlet. This phenomenon helps to prevent the spread of gases emanating from the pipeline. For a better functioning of the sewer system, pipes with an absolutely smooth inner surface are taken. Plastic in this case is an ideal option, since plastic pipes do not have burrs, roughness. The water seal related to the toilet, as a rule, is made of faience, like the main product, because it is not installed separately, but is already built into the product itself.

It is this water seal that is considered the main one in the system, since it is possible to regulate the entire system only after installing the flush tank. After all, the descent of water in the tank contributes to the maximum pressure fluctuation. As a result of this action, the water seals of the sinks are drained, because the water leaves under the influence of the resulting pressure drop.

The structure of the water seal

According to its structure, the sewer water seal is a siphon filled with water. For each type of plumbing, there are varieties:

• tubular (for sinks in the kitchen);
• corrugated (for sinks in bathrooms);
• ladders (for baths, showers, saunas);
• bottle (for any type of plumbing);
• double-turn (for equipment requiring high reliability);
• special for exclusive baths (made for certain types of baths).

Each water seal needs to be individually adjusted, otherwise the siphon may break after the tank is completely flushed. This cannot happen with dry water seals for baths, because the role of water in such a device is performed by a ball that blocks the entrance to the sewer pipe. In this case, it is not advisable to use a water siphon, because such a drain is used quite rarely, so the water in the siphon will dry up sooner or later.

Water seals in toilet bowls have their own characteristics. They are divided into 2 varieties: S-siphons (water moves down to the floor) and P-siphons (the drain is located behind the toilet bowl).

Features of the bottle siphon

The bottle siphon is the most common. It can be disassembled, so this variety is easy to repair by replacing individual elements. If a valuable thing falls into the water intake, you can quickly get it by disassembling the siphon and washing it. Its compact dimensions make it possible to use a bottle siphon in the pedestal of a tulip sink.

In their form, such devices can be S-shaped, P-shaped. The revision cover is installed from above, this allows you to control the state of the siphon, its contents.

Video instruction - installing a siphon on a sink

Features of a dry water seal

A dry water seal is used if the drain is rarely used and the water in this area dries up. A dry device is installed separately or in parallel with a conventional water seal. When creating such a device on your own, you can simply put a tennis ball so that it blocks the entrance to the hole in the sewer pipe.

When dealing with the device of a dry water seal, it must be remembered that its functioning is based on the action of a membrane attached with a spring. The spring fixes the float in cases where the water has completely dried out. If the water flows constantly, then the spring will not be able to fix the float for a long time.

Therefore, it is advisable to turn to the pendulum system, the essence of which lies in the gravitational properties of materials and in ensuring the displacement of the center of gravity.

When arranging the sewer system in the bath, you can make a dry water seal yourself. To do this, find a ball, the diameter of which is slightly larger than the diameter of the sewer pipe. A chamber is set up at the entrance to the sewer pipe, and the ball is placed on the inlet. If there is no water, the ball lies on the hole, closing the passage, excluding the outflow of gases from the system. If the chamber is filled with water, the ball floats, and the water passes unhindered into the sewer pipe.

This method is suitable not only for arranging sewage in baths that are operated exclusively during the warm period. If the ball freezes to surfaces in cold weather, it is easy to thaw it by pouring boiling water into the drain.

Corrugated, tubular siphons

In this situation, a plastic pipe becomes the basis of the water seal. It can be either smooth or corrugated, but in any case flexible. Smooth pipes bend worse, so each bend takes up a lot of space, this does not affect functionality, but the aesthetic appearance of the room deteriorates. Therefore, corrugated systems are more popular, accommodating bends of the desired length in a very limited space.

These systems have the following advantages:

• the ability to adjust the siphon loops after installing the entire system;
• the ability to move the sink or other device without disconnecting the siphon.

What causes a water seal to break?

Sometimes the water seal breaks. There are several reasons for this.

• Significant pressure drops within the sewer system. As a result, the water plug can be squeezed into the water inlet. Sometimes the air from the sewerage gradually penetrates into the room.
• Vacuum in the pipeline. This situation is possible when a large amount of water flows from the water intake into the system, completely blocking the pipe lumen.

The second situation occurs when the norms provided for by SNiP are violated:

• improperly selected pipes (too small diameter, unable to cope with water flows);
• failures in the slope of horizontal lines that appeared after repair;
• the occurrence of blockages or icing, leading to a narrowing of the lumen of the pipes.

Advice! Sometimes in corrugated models, dirt accumulates at the bottom of the siphon, which provokes the appearance of an unpleasant odor. To avoid such a development of events, it is necessary to use additional nets for the sink.

Video review - causes of smell in the sewer

When is a bathtub indispensable without a water seal?

The sewer drain from the bath can be made into a common system or into a pit specially designed for this. If wastewater enters a separate pit, it is absorbed there quite quickly, so in this situation any odors are excluded. If the drain goes into the general system, a water seal is needed.

For this, standard siphons of any type are purchased. Most often, corrugated or bottle devices are used for this. They can be either plastic or metal.

In old houses, you can sometimes see models made of cast iron, now these are not produced, but in the Soviet years, cast-iron siphons were widespread, so some are still used today.

Here are hydraulic seals from the company CENTER AQUAPA, they are designed for pipes with a diameter of 55 and 110 mm.

The water seal is in many ways reminiscent of 2 cups inserted by the arcs of a friend.

When the floors are poured in the bath, the upper part is deepened so that the water drains freely.

The photo shows that the top of the water seal is at the bottom of the floor.

Advantages of this type of design:

• can play the role of a sump;
• even when frozen, it will retain integrity.

The manufacture of this device requires some special skills and the availability of certain tools. First, a pipe fragment is bent in the shape of the letter "U". Next, the resulting element is welded or fastened with couplings to the pipe where the drain funnel ends. It is customary to make the height of the water seal about 50 - 70 mm.

These works are carried out during the laying of the foundation and pouring the floor. But it is possible to equip a water seal even if the bath has already been built, but an unpleasant smell makes it impossible to use it normally.

If the bathhouse stands on a columnar foundation, it is necessary to weld the necessary fragment of pipes, a siphon, to the drain point under the building. If the foundation is of a different type, you will have to disassemble the floor. The boards are disassembled or, with the help of a grinder, the concrete floor is cut at the drain point, and the desired fragment is already attached there.

Advice! The maximum amount of time that water can be in the water seal if the drain is not used is 50 days. Then the smell will reappear because the water has evaporated. So it is better to periodically drain the water to prevent the water seal from drying out.

Water seal is a specially created water stopper that protects the premises from the unpleasant "aroma" of the sewer. Water accumulates in the curved section of the pipe, completely blocking the diameter. Thus, water does not allow bad smell to enter the room.

When to use a water seal in a bath

It is necessary to use such a design for sewerage if water is drained into a common water supply system. In the event that the liquid is drained into a pit outside the bath, there will be no bad smell. If the bath sewerage was connected to a common system, then ready-made siphons (as for a washbasin or bathroom) of any type can be used. Metal or plastic corrugated hose or bottle type valves are commercially available. In rare cases, there are cast-iron hydraulic seals, but they have not been produced for several years. In fact, such a device is two glasses inserted one into the other. After the floors are filled in the bath, the top of the water seal should be in a small recess to completely drain the liquid.

This device has two main advantages:

• it should be as a sump;
• even if water freezes inside it, it must not be damaged.

We make a water seal ourselves

Pretty easy to do it yourself. To do this, you need to take a piece of pipe of the required diameter and bend it in the form of the letter "U" and weld it to the pipe after the drain funnel (usually its height is 50-70 mm). This is best done when laying the foundation and arranging the floor, but if the bath is already ready, and an unpleasant smell overshadows your stay in it, then you can install it later.

If the sewer pipes are accessible, and the foundation of the building is columnar, then this will greatly facilitate the work. You can weld the necessary piece of pipe to the drain pipe under the bath. In the event that there is no access to the pipes, then it will need to be organized: dismantle part of the floor if it is made of wood, or saw it with a grinder if it is concrete. After that, a pipe with a bend is attached to the sewer by welding or a coupling.

It must also be borne in mind that water can evaporate, and if you do not use the sewer for a long time, after 40-50 days it will completely dry out, and gases will freely enter the room.

What is a dry water seal?

Also, this design can be dry. There is no water in it, and dry materials are used as a damper. This option, as you understand, is not able to freeze, while it can be of several types:

it is a membrane held by a spring if there is no water. When liquid enters, the spring power is not enough to hold it, the damper rises, and the liquid drains. An object of a certain shape (often a large diameter ball) closes the air passage. When liquid enters, the object floats, opening the drain. In more complex models, the molecular memory of the material is used.

You can make a simple dry water seal for a bath with your own hands, there is nothing complicated about it. It is necessary to choose a plastic ball, a little larger than the drain pipe. When there is no water, such a ball will block the access of air from the sewer. As soon as the liquid flows, the drain will be released. This type of system can also work in winter, even if the ball freezes to the drain, a little boiling water can literally melt the ice in a matter of minutes, and the system will work normally.

Water lock in the bath

A water seal is a specially created water plug that protects the room from the unpleasant "aroma" of the sewer.

Bath water seal

A water trap is a specially designed water plug that prevents sewer "aromas" from entering the room. Water accumulates in the curved section of the pipe, completely blocking the diameter. Thus, water does not allow odors to penetrate into the room.

The principle of organizing a water seal for sewerage

When to use a water seal in a bath

In the bath, it is necessary to use a water seal for the sewer if the water is drained into the general drainage system. If the water drains outside the bath into a pit, from where it is absorbed, there can be no smell in this case.

If the bath sewer is connected to a common system, you can use ready-made siphons (as for a bathroom or washbasin) of any design. There are commercially available plastic or metal bottle-type closures or corrugated hose.

Sewer bottle water trap

Sometimes you can still find a cast-iron water seal, but their production was stopped several years ago, and they are found mainly in old houses.

It looks like a water seal for a plastic sewer

CENTER AQUAPA water traps are available for sale, which are inserted into a plastic pipe with a diameter of 55 mm or 110 mm.

Water trap CENTER AQUAPA inserted into a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm

In fact, a water seal is two glasses inserted one into the other.

Upper and lower parts of the CENTER AQUAPA water trap

After pouring the floors in the bath, the top of the water seal should be in a small recess to completely drain the water.

The upper part of the water seal is at the level of the lowest point

This water seal has two advantages:

1. It additionally performs the role of a sump;
2. Even if water freezes in the water seal, it will not be damaged.

How to make a water seal with your own hands

It is quite easy to make a water seal with your own hands. To do this, a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter must be bent in the shape of the letter “U” and welded (connected with couplings) to the pipe after the drain funnel (the height of the water seal is usually 50-70 mm). It is desirable to do this during the laying of the foundation and the arrangement of the floors, but if the bath is already functioning and the smell interferes, you can try to eliminate this trouble.

If the foundation is columnar and sewer pipes are available, this makes things easier. Under the bath, you can weld the desired piece of pipe to the drain pipe. If there is no access to the pipes, you will have to organize it: disassemble part of the floor if it is wooden, or cut it out with a “grinder” if it is concrete. After that, connect the pipe with a bend to the sewer using couplings or welding.

It should be noted that water from any water seal evaporates. And if you do not use the sewer for a long time, after 40-50 days it will dry completely, and the gases from the sewer will freely enter the room.

What is a dry water seal

There is another option for a water seal - dry. There is no water in it, and various materials are used as a damper. As you understand, such a water seal does not freeze. There are several types of dry water seals for sewage:

• This is a membrane that is held by a spring if there is no water. When water enters, the spring power is not enough to hold it, the damper rises and the water drains.

It looks like a drain with a dry water seal to the sewer

• A shaped object (usually a ball larger than a diameter pipe) blocks the air passage. As soon as water enters, the object floats, opening the drain.
• More technologically sophisticated models that use the molecular memory of materials.

For a bath, an elementary dry water seal can be made with your own hands, as it is quite simple. You need to pick up a plastic ball a little larger than the drain pipe. Put it on a pipe, and make some kind of chamber within which it will be located. When there is no water, the ball blocks the access of air from the sewer. When water enters, it floats (within the chamber) and releases the drain. Such a system is functional even in winter conditions.: even if the ball freezes to the drain, a little hot water will melt the ice in a matter of minutes, and the system will function normally.

Water seal for sewerage for a bath - types and features of self-production

There are various types of water seals for a bath, so you need to make the right choice. Sometimes it is better to use a water seal, and sometimes dry.

Water seal for sewerage in the bath

Any rural option, when the water from the bath just goes outside, into the gap between the boards, has its own difficulties. And if there is a main or autonomous sewer on the site, then another task arises - to get rid of the penetration of gases from the sewer into the bath. There is a simple solution - to put a water seal.

What is a water seal

They are of two types:

U-shaped (knee) water seal

From the picture it is absolutely clear that this is a simple device similar to a hookah, in contrast to it does not allow air to pass through, creating a water plug. And what happens in the hookah is called the failure of the water seal.

Pipe diameter and connection method can only affect the performance of such a device, the main thing that is required of him is tightness, and its lower point must be at least 50 mm lower than the drain pipe.

Any available materials are suitable for a water seal, but we must not forget that in the event that access to it is closed, reliability and the possibility of cleaning are of decisive importance.

The second figure shows how water, having evaporated from the cork (and this will definitely happen in 40-50 days), opens up the possibility for air to enter from the sewer.

So you need to either periodically fill it with water, or use a different type of water seal, or hermetically drown it for a long absence.

Bottle water seal

From this figure it is clear that another design solution did not change the function of this device - to create a water plug. Another name for such a thing is a siphon.

It is also clear that the pipe connection must be airtight. Such a water seal is also a sump.

The lower part of a conventional washing bottle siphon can be unscrewed for cleaning, and if a homemade shutter of this type is used, for example, in the floor, then the upper part must be collapsible.

Dry seals

The most pressing issue for a bath with a drain into the sewer is not so much the choice of the design of the ladder as the laying of the line itself. Any ready-made version of the ladder from the store, including the “dry” one, contains a water seal with a water column of 30 mm or more, so with regular use of the bath, there will be no problems with the drying of the water plug. And those who know that the bath will not be in use for a long time can simply drown out the drain.

For those who want to forget and not remember the dried-up siphon, there are so-called dry ladders.

There are two types of dry water trap.

float type

It is best to consider a specific example, for example, the Austrian HL 310 NPr.

Vertical drain. The upper element is cut to the desired size from 12 to 70 mm and embedded in the screed.

The polyethylene housing is designed for wastewater temperatures up to 85 degrees. The installation procedure for different cases is described in the passport.

The float, in case of drying water, simply falls and closes the pipe. The height of the valve water column is 50 mm (complies with Austrian city regulations).

The principle of operation is clearly visible in the picture.

In the working position, the water raises and holds the float at the same level and the system works as one of the options for a water seal. If the bath is not used for a long time, the water from the shutter evaporates, and the float closes the drain hole before the water has completely evaporated.

Craftsmen came up with an option that can work no worse than a factory one. The main difference from this scheme is that such a float in the form of an inverted glass is fixed so that its bottom is higher than the drain hole by more than the diameter of the drain pipe. And the hole itself closes a light ball with a diameter larger than the drain one - it acts as a float.

pendulum type

In the photo, a specific example is a dry seal for drains 100 mm in the neck - Viega 583255.

Below, at the shutter, two curtains are visible, suspended at an angle to the vertical - this is the pendulum shutter. The curtains are closed due to their own weight, and the water opens them when draining. The height of the water column of the water seal is 32 mm - it is quite enough for a country bath. In Germany itself, which is declared as a manufacturing country, when designing a sewerage system in city houses, it is assumed that plumbing fixtures in apartments have a water seal height of 50-60 mm, but not 32!

If the force of gravity that closes the curtains is replaced by the force of a spring, then get different options for the spring type of dry valves, with more options.

Of course, all of the listed valves contain some kind of siphon.

There is another type of dry shutters, for which sometimes too abstruse names are invented, such as the cellular memory of the material. Usually they are a stocking made of flattened rubber, which begins to pass water under a slight pressure. It is unlikely that this is of interest for a country bath.

Skilled owners, even with very limited funds, can easily reproduce, and, possibly, improve any type of water seal.

Floor and sewer

With the laying of the sewerage route, there is much more trouble than directly with the drain from the bath, but it is better to do it, the neater the better.

Even if the floor in the bath is covered with wooden bars, then anyway, it is better to make a screed along the beacons with a slight uniform slope to the ladder, and lay a tile on it. The final trimming of the drain extension can be done when it is known exactly at what height the tile will approach the drain point. If the work is done very carefully, then even with a minimal slope there will be no puddles.

Providing access, with the possibility of replacing all elements, is too much luxury for an ordinary bath. Therefore, do not avoid work that may seem superfluous, for example, the depth of the sewerage should not be less than the freezing depth. To insulate the floor under a 20 cm screed with a layer of expanded clay with greasy cement mortar is by no means overkill. A dry ladder is also not a panacea - dirt that has entered the shutter can prevent it from closing tightly. At the end of the season, it does not hurt to rinse the removable elements. Buying a dry water seal in a store or making it yourself - this issue is not necessarily associated with financial difficulties.

Dry water trap for sewage in a bath: factory and home-made options

Types of water seals. What is the difference between a dry water seal and a wet one. Is it possible to make a dry water trap for sewage in a bath on your own.

We start building a bath

Creating a drain hole

Building a bath is not a difficult process. Integral elements of this room are a stove, a steam room and a drain pit. Before starting masonry work, close attention should be paid to creating a future drain for proper water flow. It is necessary to make this design in such a way that the pit is in operation for a long period of time, and the water flow flows freely. At the same time, the drain should not emit sharp and unpleasant odors, as well as create obstacles in the area.

Before building a bath, it is necessary to draw up a plan with the detailed dimensions of all rooms.

For construction work, we need the following tools:

• concrete mixer;
• 2 shovels - bayonet and shovel;
• several buckets (up to 5 pieces);
• trowel;
• pick;
• stairs;
• building level;
• roulette;
• tamper;
• pliers.

The location of the sewage pit may vary. It can be placed inside the bath under the floor, where the sink will be located, and outside the foundation of the building. When the drain pit is intended for temporary use, it can be made small and placed behind the bath. For periodic cleaning, cover it with a lid or leave it open.

The creation of a temporary pit for draining, in most cases, is carried out on land plots consisting of clay-type soils.

Schematic device of the drain.

The “rough” floor is covered with a 20-cm layer of expanded clay, which helps to increase the service life of the concrete floor, levels the temperature difference in winter and prevents the pit from freezing in the cold period of time. The area of ​​​​the entire floor is reinforced with trimmings of corners, thick wire or pipes that are attached to the lid of the pit. The pouring of the concrete solution is carried out with the presence of slopes directed from the walls to the drain.

Creating a drain hole

As drain pipes, you can use products made of metal, asbestos or plastic. Plastic pipes are more preferable because of the low price and ease of installation.

Building a bath is not a difficult process. Integral elements of this room are a stove, a steam room and a drain pit. Before starting masonry work, close attention should be paid to creating a future drain for proper water flow. It is necessary to make this design in such a way that the pit is in operation for a long period of time, and the water flow flows freely. At the same time, the drain should not emit sharp and unpleasant odors, as well as create obstacles in the area.

The location of the sewage pit may vary. It can be placed inside the bath under the floor, where the sink will be located, and outside the foundation of the building. When the drain pit is intended for temporary use, it can be made small and placed behind the bath. For periodic cleaning, cover it with a lid or leave it open. The creation of a temporary pit for draining, in most cases, is carried out on land plots consisting of clay-type soils.

In the event that it is planned to create a permanent drain, the pit should be placed in the central part of the bath. Its dimensions should be as follows: length and width - up to 0.5 m, depth - up to 1.5 m. The walls of the drain pit are poured with a 20-centimeter layer of concrete mortar, which is reinforced with a metal mesh and compacted with small stones or pieces of brick.

Scheme of a drain pit from old tires.

After concreting the walls, the pit is covered with wooden boards soaked in a used mixture of diesel oil. To cover the pit, you can use formwork boards, removing them after the poured mortar has solidified. A concrete cover is poured over the boards, the thickness of which is approximately 10 cm. The cover is pre-reinforced with wire. To strengthen the walls of the pit, you can use concrete or metal rings (half rings). The main thing is that during the implementation of this process, the entire structure is firmly strengthened and does not fail.

A drain hole should be made for the pit cover. In this case, it must be connected to a water seal. In turn, the water lock is located in the most convenient and accessible place of the bath. In terms of technological features, the creation of a drain pit is somewhat reminiscent of a septic tank, but in much smaller volumes and sizes.

The main design solution to prevent unpleasant odors

A water lock prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors from the drain hole into the inside of the bath, which contributes to a comfortable stay in the room. The shutter is made of metal and installed before the floor is poured or concreted in a small recess into which a plate made of durable tin is inserted (it is better to use stainless steel or non-ferrous metal). The bottom of the plate should be approximately 5-10 mm below the outlet drain pipe. A water lock is usually made at the lowest point in the middle of the room. The entire surface is reinforced with metal wire and lining.

Water lock for baths and drains: the process of creation and location

A water seal for a bath prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors from the drain pit into the interior of the room, which contributes to a comfortable stay in it.

Sewerage in the bath do-it-yourself scheme

Gone are the unprepossessing bath buildings with an arbitrary runoff of dirty water into "nowhere" or the nearest body of water. Today, sewerage in the bath is not a luxury, but a necessity. Not only the norms of ethics and aesthetics, but also the requirements of laws aimed at ensuring the environmental safety of the environment are pushing for the installation of a high-quality sewage disposal system.

Do-it-yourself sewerage for a bath

The first step to the improvement of the bath is to assess the condition of the soil on the site, determine the optimal pipe laying depth and resolve the issue of the location of the septic tank. The easiest way is for those homeowners who were directly involved in the construction of the bath or built (built) it on their own. For them, the type of soil, its freezing point (TPG) and the level of groundwater occurrence (GWL) are not a secret.

Did you build a bath with your own hands? So you should already have data on soil geology

Without knowledge of these indicators, it is impossible to build a trouble-free sewer system. For those who have purchased a plot with a bathhouse built on it, you will need to perform a set of simple observations and calculations.

Independent study of the geology of the site

To determine the type of soil, you can conduct an express study that does not require special knowledge and is based on visual inspection and tactile sensations. For this purpose, a hole is dug 25-30 cm below the TPG at the proposed place for laying pipes. Information on the depth of soil freezing in a given area can be obtained from neighbors, from reference books, on specialized Internet resources.

Soil freezing depth

It is important to take a soil sample exactly at the bottom of the pit, since sewer pipes will be laid at this level. After that, the soil sample is carefully examined visually, rubbed between the palms, rolled into a tourniquet.

And evaluate the results according to the table.

Methods for determining soils

If it turns out that the soil is clay or loam, you should know that these categories of soils are classified as strongly heaving. In this case, the pipes will need to be laid on a sand "pillow" by analogy with "floating" foundations. The sand will act as a shock absorber during seasonal soil movements and the integrity of the underground part of the sewer system will not be violated.

After the safe depth of the pipeline is clarified, the issue with the location of the septic tank (filtration well) is resolved. The wastewater collection point must be separated from the water intake point by at least 15 m and located no closer than 7 m from the foundation of the bath.

Choosing the type of sewer system

For the improvement of the bath, it is possible to use three types of individual sewage:

• non-pressure;
• pressure;
• connected to a centralized city drainage system or to an existing sewerage system of a private house.

Non-pressure system

The non-pressure method of draining wastewater is otherwise called gravity. This is the simplest and least expensive type of sewer for a bath. Its main advantage: energy independence. The installation of a non-pressure system requires careful observance of the slope of the pipes (1-1.5 cm per 1 linear meter) and is impossible with a complex terrain.

To transport wastewater, pipes of a larger diameter are required than with a pressure system. The straightness of the line is highly desirable. If the pipeline scheme includes turning points, manholes are equipped in these places. This rule is relevant for any type of sewer system.

Installation of non-pressure sewer pipes Lookout well

pressure system

General scheme of pressure sewerage

The pressurized sewerage system provides for the forced transportation of wastewater, which is provided by a pump or pumping station. The equipment can be installed both indoors and outdoors. A pressure sewer system for a bath is built if, for some reason, it is impossible to make a non-pressure one. Features of this type of sewerage:

• pressure is more expensive than non-pressure;
• volatile;
• requires insulation of equipment in the winter.

Pressure sewer with fecal pump Pressure sewer pipe

Mortise sewerage system

A less time-consuming, but most troublesome way is to connect to a centralized sewer network. This method is not possible for all bath owners. Therefore, it does not make sense to consider it in all details.

Connection to a centralized sewer network

More often, the connection of the drain system to the septic tank already on the site is used. However, in this case, you will also have to choose the type of drainage system (pressure or non-pressure).

Connection to a septic tank

We design a sewerage scheme for a bath

A single sewer system for greater ease of design is divided into two types: internal and external. The first includes communications inside the premises, the second - outside the building. Having familiarized yourself with the basic principles of constructing a circuit, it is easy to develop it yourself.

Design stages

1. It is necessary to draw a plan of the bath, taking into account the thickness of the walls and partitions of the building. For this purpose, graph paper is best, but you can use a regular checkered sheet.

External network design rules:

• at the junction of the external and internal sewerage, an inspection hatch is provided;
• according to SNiP, manholes are arranged at the turning points of the main, at the points of connection of a separate side branch of the pipeline, every 15-35 m of a straight line with a pipe diameter of 100-150 mm;
• according to SNiP, the slope of the external sewage system with a pipe diameter of 110-150 mm is 0.01 (1 cm per 1 meter);
• the first revision well should be no closer than 3 m and no further than 12 m from the bath;
• if the site has a large slope and a toilet bowl is provided in the room, a multi-stage sewerage system with overflow wells is arranged.

Approximate scheme of the internal sewerage of the bath

Water seal options

A water seal is the most important element of the sewer system, the purpose of which is to cut off unpleasant odors coming from a septic tank (drain hole). Simply put, this is a water plug that is in the pipe even if the bath is not used. An example of the simplest water seal is a U-shaped siphon. In a line of plastic pipes, a water plug is arranged using three shaped elements: bends.

The difficulty is that with a rare use of the sewer system, the water in the water seal tends to evaporate. In this case, experts recommend installing a dry shutter. It is a simple plastic or metal structure, equipped with a spring and a damper (membrane) that blocks the exit from the pipe. When water enters the system, the damper leans back under its pressure, and after passing through the flow, it again takes its place.

Craftsmen make unique home-made valve systems for bath drains. If you wish, you can use one of the following options.

Funnel and ball closure. An example for clarity

Dry shutter in sewer pit

Which pipes to choose

In fact, the choice of pipes for sewerage is not so great.

Pig-iron pipes for sewerage

• PVC (polyvinyl chloride);
• PVCC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride);
• PP (polypropylene);
• HDPE (low pressure polyethylene);
• polyethylene corrugated.

Any of these products can be safely used in a sewerage device. The diameter of the main line is chosen based on the expected intensity of operation of the building and the number of drain points. For an average bath with a steam room, a washing room and a toilet, when installing a gravity drain system, pipes with a cross section of 100-110 mm are required. If the toilet is not provided, a diameter of 50 mm is sufficient. Sanitary equipment is connected to the main line with pipes with a cross section of 50 mm.

Installation of the internal sewerage system of the bath

It is necessary to start sewerage at the construction stage of the bath. But it is also possible to equip a ready-made, long-term exploited building. The scope of work and their sequence in both cases are different, so each of the options must be considered separately.

Pipes for the internal sewerage of the bath

Installation of sewerage at the construction stage of the bath

To perform the work, a previously drawn up plan (scheme) of the sewer system will be required. In order to accurately find the connection points for plumbing elements (ladders, showers, toilet bowls, sinks, etc.), they start marking after the foundation has been erected. In places where the main highway is laid, trenches of the appropriate width and depth are dug.

Important: The bottom of each ditch is leveled taking into account the required slope towards the septic tank.

Then proceed to the laying of pipes. Experts advise starting the installation of the sewer system with the installation of the main pipe and large (nodal) elements, to which side branches of a smaller diameter are subsequently brought.

Sewer system installation

In places where plumbing is connected, vertical pipes are installed. To prevent foreign objects from entering the network, each outlet is closed with a plug. Mount the ventilation stack.

At the connection points of plumbing, vertical pipes with plugs are installed.

In regions with a cold climate, pipe insulation is performed. For this purpose, fibrous materials (mineral wool and its analogues), polystyrene half-cylinders, foamed polyethylene are used. If desired, you can pre-wrap the pipes with noise-absorbing material, which will significantly reduce the volume of sounds emitted by the operating system.

Form a sand cushion.

Installation of internal sewerage in the room

If the bath has been in operation for more than a year, it is also possible to arrange a dirty water drainage system in it. To do this, you need to draw up a diagram and open the floor in the right places. Installation of pipes is carried out at the level of the foundation, in one of the walls of which a hole is drilled to output the main line.

Drains are installed in the washing and steam rooms. In the performance of work adhere to the following rules:

• the ladder must be level with the floor;
• gaps are closed with moisture-resistant grouts;
• tiles are laid after installing the ladder.

Bath external sewerage device

The main element of the external sewage disposal system is a septic tank. If there is no toilet in the bath, there is no need to buy a factory product or equip a well with multi-level filtration of wastewater on your own. Enough to dig a drainage hole. But it is relevant only for soils with a high level of moisture permeability (stony, sandy, sandy loam).

Video - Do-it-yourself drain pit

Installation of sewerage with a drainage pit

• according to the scheme, the site is marked: they find the location of the waste collection point, determine the route for laying the highway;
• dig a hole 1-1.5 m deep below the TPG;
• a 20-30 cm layer of sand and gravel is poured at the bottom;
• to prevent soil walls from crumbling, a metal container or a column of large diameter car tires can be installed in the pit. A more solid construction is a frame built of bricks.

Start laying the highway. They dig a trench with a depth below the TPG and form a slope towards the drainage pit. Pipes are laid and the compliance of the slope with the requirements of SNiP is checked.

Manholes are arranged at the turning points of the pipeline. In order to prevent freezing of pipes in these places in cold weather, it is necessary to carry out insulation and close the openings with double covers.

The place where the pipe enters the drainage pit is sealed with cement mortar or mounting foam.

The mains are insulated in any convenient way: by wrapping pipes with mineral wool or by laying foam.

Sewerage with a pit

In areas with clay soil for waste disposal, it is recommended to install a pit located under the floor of the bath. The presence of this sink does not relieve the owner from the need to install an external pipeline that transports water outside the premises. The pit serves as an auxiliary structure for the smooth operation of the sewer system.

Sewerage with a pit

A square-shaped hole is dug under the floor with a rib length of at least half a meter and a depth of 1-1.5 m. At a height of 10-15 cm from the floor level, a pipe is installed connecting the pit to the external sewage system. Observe a slope of 1 cm per 1 linear meter towards the water outlet. The bottom and walls of the pit are concreted.

Basic moments

The owner of the bath must remember that each stage of the sewerage device requires careful observance of the requirements for it. The reliability of the system is ensured by a properly designed scheme and exact compliance of the pipe slope with the norms of SNiP. The comfort of staying in the bath is guaranteed by the presence of a hydro or dry shutter.

Do not neglect the device of the ventilation system, as it forms an optimal air exchange and contributes to the weathering of moisture after bath procedures. This will help prevent the formation of fungus and mold. For regions with a cold climate, it is extremely important to perform high-quality work on the insulation of the sewer system.

Sewerage in the bath do-it-yourself scheme and step-by-step instructions!

Learn how to install external and internal sewerage. The choice of pipes, installation options, do-it-yourself sewerage in the bath, scheme, photo + video.