How to choose an autonomous sewer for a private house - detailed instructions. The war for a warm toilet or how to sewer Sewerage device in a private house

Sewerage in a private house is a pipe distribution, consisting of two parts: internal and external. Therefore, when the installation of sewerage is carried out, the process itself is divided into two stages: the assembly of the internal sewer system and the external one. Everything is done separately, taking into account the calculations of the diameter of the pipes and the choice of material from which they are made. Gone are the days when the sewerage of a private house was assembled from cast-iron or asbestos pipes. They served their purpose by handing over the reins of government to plastic pipes. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to correctly approach the choice of sewer pipes.

Types of sewer pipes

Today, two types of polymer pipes are used to assemble sewers in private homes: PVC and polypropylene. The former are used for the external system, the latter for the internal.

Sewer pipes

Polypropylene sewer pipes are gray in color and have a range of standard diameters from 20 mm to 400 mm. At the same time, their connection is bell-shaped using a rubber cuff, which ensures the tightness of the joint. To facilitate the installation of the sewer system, manufacturers offer various fittings: elbows, bends, crosses, tees, adapters, plugs and other profile products of different diameters.

As for PVC sewer pipes, everything is the same here as regards connections and fittings. But they have an orange or red color, so it will be impossible to confuse. Plus, a diameter that starts at 50mm and ends at 1200mm. For external sewerage of a private house, diameters of 110-200 mm are most often used.

Internal sewerage of a private house

Installation of the internal sewerage of a private house is more difficult than the external one. The thing is that inside the house there are a large number of water consumers: taps, faucets, showers, washing and washing machines, toilets. And they are all located in different rooms. Therefore, the piping has a complex scheme, which is assembled into a single system and brought out, connecting to the external part of the sewer. If the house is built on several floors, then each of them has its own system, and all floors are combined by one vertical riser, which is assembled from a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm.

Usually the riser is installed in the place where the sewerage will be taken out of the house. Here it is important to observe one important rule - the smaller the distance, the more efficiently the system works. Therefore, the riser is installed against the wall of the building, which will be closest to the sewer well or septic tank.

As for the piping of the internal sewer system, you have to take into account the volume of water that must pass through it.

  • A pipe with a diameter of 25-32 mm can be removed from the sink.
  • From kitchen sink 32-40 mm.
  • From a shower or bath 32-50 mm.
  • From a washing machine or dishwasher 40-50 mm.
  • From the toilet bowl 110 mm.

And the more connections are made in one system, the larger the diameter of the pipe must combine them. For example, if a sink and a dishwasher in the kitchen are connected to one network, then a pipe with a diameter of 40 mm is installed under each of them. But they are connected when they are taken out of the kitchen into a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, which, for example, will be further combined with a sink and a bathroom, which in the final result will give a combined pipe with a diameter of 110 mm.

Therefore, it is very important to first draw a piping diagram with the exact installation of plumbing fixtures, and only then calculate the dimensions of the piping with an accurate determination of the diameters of the purchased products.

Scheme of wiring the sewerage of one floor of a private house

Installation process rules

There are certain rules for the installation of sewer pipes, which are installed in the internal wiring.

  • The socket of the sewer pipe, which is connected to the very first and last consumer, must be located at least 80 cm from the floor level. That is, this consumer is the farthest from the riser. If there are not so many fittings along the water path, then you can lower the installation level to 30 cm.
  • The toilet must be connected to the riser with a pipe of the same diameter as the riser itself. And its length should not exceed 1 m.
  • Each plumbing fixture must be equipped with a water seal (siphon).
  • The slope of sewer pipes should be 2-3 mm per meter of piping length.
  • Fastening to the supporting structures of the building is carried out using special clamps, of which there should be two for each element. Clamps are usually installed at socket connections.

Internal sewerage in a private house

The plastic pipe is easily cut, so it can be cut to the required length with a hacksaw or a grinder. All connections, as mentioned above, are bell-shaped. Therefore, it will not be difficult to assemble the sewer with your own hands. The main thing is to follow the installation scheme of the sewerage system exactly.

Attention! Where to start installing the sewer: from a riser or from a plumbing fixture, everyone decides for himself.

If a private house has a basement in its design, then the entire wiring of the first floor can be done there. It is convenient in terms of installation and maintenance. Secondly, the pipeline will not be visible, which will increase the space of the premises and the aesthetics of their appearance. Laying sewer pipes in the walls is not recommended. For them, boxes of their various finishing materials are usually constructed with a frame device.

Installation of sewerage in the basement of the house

External sewerage of a private house

It is easier internal in terms of its installation. But in addition to pipes, the sewer system includes a septic tank or a well, as well as several manholes. The installation of the sewerage system (external) begins with earthworks. With the help of shovels, a pit is dug under a septic tank or a well, and there may be several pits if the septic tank is built in the form of several overflow wells. Further, a trench is dug from it to the house. The main requirement for it is straightness without a large number of bends and turns, plus adhere to the slope towards the well.

By the way, about the slope of the pipeline for the outdoor system. It all depends on the diameter of the pipe used. For example, for pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, the slope should be 20 mm per linear meter of the assembled pipeline. For a pipe of 160 mm - 8 mm slope, for 200 mm - 7 mm.

The slope of the installation of sewer pipes

As for the minimum number of taps, this is an important component on which the efficiency of the entire system depends. The thing is that any even the most insignificant turn from the straightness of the pipeline is a place where a blockage can form. And if the angle of inclination is chosen incorrectly, then it is guaranteed to form in this place.

Installation rules

If a standard septic tank is installed, made of plastic or metal, then there should be no problems with its installation. The bottom of the pit is leveled horizontally, sprinkled with sand 15-20 cm thick, and compacted. After that, it is necessary to lower the septic tank into it.

Attention! The inlet pipe of the septic tank must be oriented exactly along the sewer pipe. It is optimal if they are located on the same axis. Deviations are possible, but small.

Installed septic tank

If a well or a septic tank is equipped from different materials, that is, an unfinished option, then the complexity of installing a sewer in a private house increases dramatically. For example, a well made of reinforced concrete rings. It is necessary to dig a pit, fill it with a sand or crushed stone pillow 15-20 cm thick, tamp it down, pour a concrete layer with a thickness of at least 7 cm, and, if possible, lay a reinforcing frame made of metal mesh or reinforcement in it.

Then you need to wait a few days for the concrete base to dry out. And after that, use a crane to collect the reinforced concrete rings themselves. And before that, the rings are additionally waterproofed from the outside. All this is difficult and costly. Therefore, the easiest option is to install a ready-made septic tank, at worst a sealed or leaky container.

Connection of two sewer pipes

Now with regard to the installation of sewer pipes. With their bias, everything is clear. But there is one important process - their thermal insulation. More recently, sewer pipes were laid below the freezing level of the soil. Why a huge amount of earthwork was carried out, because in many regions this figure is more than 1.5 m. Today, this method of sewer insulation can not be used. The use of thermal insulation materials of various types solves this problem.

Of course, many are faced with the question of which pipe insulation to choose. Today, the ideal option is heat-insulating cylinders (shells), which are made from almost all types of heaters: mineral wool, various kinds of foamed polymers, and so on. The shell is simply put on the pipe and fastened with clamps or tape. By the way, internal sewage pipes located in an unheated basement also need to be insulated with this material.

Thermal insulation of the sewer pipe

If the external sewer system is very long, then manholes must be installed in it. One well per 50 m length of a straight pipeline. Be sure to install a well near the outlets or connections (for example, when a branch from an outdoor pool or summer kitchen is connected to the main branch). Their purpose is to control sewer flows and, if necessary, repair and clean the system through them.

You can buy ready-made wells, such manufacturers of sewer pipes offer today. And you can make them with your own hands from the same pipes of only large diameter, for example, from 400 or 500 mm. They are installed in trenches in a vertical position and connected to the ends of the connected pipes.

Attention! Where to start installing sewer pipes: from a septic tank or from a house, everyone decides for himself.

Mounting diagram

  • The bottom of the excavated trench is leveled taking into account the slope of the sewer system. Greater precision is not required here.
  • A sand bed is made with a thickness of 15-20 cm. It is this that will have to be strictly aligned to the slope of the pipe laying.
  • After that, the installation of pipes is carried out. And at this stage, the angle of inclination of the system is checked using a long level.
  • Connecting a pipe to a septic tank and a pipe from the inside of the sewerage system of a private house.
  • As for insulation, the cylinders are put on before the connection is made. That is, at first the pipe is set strictly along the slope, then a heater is put on it, and after that it is laid in a trench.
  • The trenches are backfilled with soil.

Installation of sloped pipes

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When arranging a country house, many communications are often installed by hand. There is nothing surprising in this: the process itself is quite simple, and the execution of work does not require special skills. Of course, there are certain rules that must be observed: for example, it is worth carefully designing the structure and making sure that one communication line does not interfere with another. About how to install a sewer in a private house, and will be discussed in this article.

If we talk about sewerage, then the first thing you need to know is that this system consists of internal and external parts, and the arrangement of each of them is carried out in its own way. External sewerage is installed somewhat easier, since the work is carried out in open space. From the inside, everything is a little more complicated, so installing a sewer in a private house with your own hands begins with it.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house

The first step in building a structure is planning. You need to know exactly how much plumbing will be installed, and where it will be installed. When performing work, be sure to have a pre-drawn project at hand. One rule can be immediately deduced: when installing a riser, it must be placed as close as possible to the wall under which the sewer outlet is equipped. Naturally, this wall should be located on the side where the sewer well is located, which, in turn, is arranged as low as possible so that it is easier for drains to move there on their own (read also: "").
The riser is usually made of 110 mm plastic pipe. All outlet pipes are connected to the riser, through which drains are collected from plumbing fixtures. To connect the toilet to the system, straight sections made of 100 mm pipes are used, and other appliances can be connected through various fittings using pipes with a diameter of 32 to 80 mm.

Do-it-yourself sewerage installation in a private house is usually performed parallel to the water line. Such installation is especially convenient when communications will be installed in the walls. To do this, it is necessary to prepare the strobes intended for laying pipes. There is one caveat here: the plumbing system works under some pressure, so the slope of the pipes is not a necessary condition.

The sewer system requires a slope, otherwise it simply will not work: the structure operates on a gravity basis, so the slope must be observed in all its sections, regardless of the length of the pipelines or the location of the devices. According to regulatory documents, the average slope should be within 2-3 cm per 1 meter of the pipeline. When creating a slope, you need to carefully monitor compliance with this value, otherwise the system will begin to create problems very soon.

To connect plastic pipes, it is necessary to use fittings from the same material: such a connection will provide the structure with sufficient strength and tightness. With hidden sewerage, it is necessary not only to lay pipes in prepared strobes, but also to fix them with clamps for reliability. The strobes themselves are subsequently masked with a special solution.

Do-it-yourself outdoor sewer installation

The elements of the external sewer system include all parts that are equipped outside the building.

Installing sewerage in a private house requires attention, especially in such moments:

  1. The design should have a minimum of bends and turns, so the entire line should be made as straight as possible.
  2. If plastic pipes were used in the house, then the external sewage system should also be made of this material.
Installation of external sewerage also has some features that you will have to face:
  1. Large volume of earthworks. It is necessary to lay the external sewage system, taking into account the level of soil freezing: the pipes must be below this level so that negative temperatures do not provoke stagnation or rupture of the system.
  2. Creation of a sewer well. Before you create a sewer in a private house, you will need to accurately calculate the amount of drains, which is primarily affected by the number of residents. The large estimated volume of waste indicates the need to create a large reservoir, so the depth of its arrangement should be large enough.
  3. System type selection. The quality of the collection and disposal of wastewater, as well as the convenience of operating the sewer system, will be directly affected by its type. Each design has its own nuances: for example, a conventional cesspool has an extremely low efficiency, but is very cheap, but a powerful biological treatment plant will be expensive, but its performance will be at the highest level. See also: "".

In any case, external sewerage imposes special requirements on its arrangement, and they must be taken into account in order for the design to be as efficient as possible.

earthworks

Earthwork is one of the first stages of sewerage construction. You can perform these works both independently and with the involvement of additional forces (teams of workers or special equipment). Naturally, before work, it is necessary to mark the area along which the trench will pass.

In addition, it is important to pay attention to the slope of the bottom of the trench: when using equipment, the required value will not be reached, so you will have to level everything yourself. In any case, after preparing the trench, its bottom must be covered with a small layer of sand.

Arrangement of a sewer well

This design can be made from different materials:
  • brickwork;
  • metal tank;
  • reinforced concrete rings;
  • plastic septic tank.
Each system has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

It is worth saying a few words about each of them:
  1. Devices made of bricks or blocks are pretty good elements of the sewer system, but their arrangement takes a lot of time. With little experience in construction work, it may take several days to create a brick well.
  2. The metal structure compares favorably with the brick one by ease of installation and lower cost, but the service life of the device in this case will be much less: the metal is easily corroded, and very soon the device will become faulty.
  3. Reinforced concrete wells are quite common structures, since strength, reliability and durability can be distinguished among their advantages. The disadvantage of a well made of reinforced concrete rings is a difficult installation: finished rings have a considerable weight, so it is almost impossible to install them with your own hands.
  4. Plastic septic tanks can also be attributed to reliable and high-quality structures: they are durable and much lighter than reinforced concrete counterparts, so they can be installed with the efforts of 2-3 people. True, the cost of construction is somewhat higher than the cost of previous devices, but the money spent will pay off in the very near future. In addition, if we take into account the labor costs for arranging, for example, concrete wells, then the price will almost be equal. See also: "".

How to install sewer pipes

The installation of the pipeline usually starts from the house - it is easier to monitor compliance with the slope of the structure. When laying pipes, they must be connected with couplings. When connecting several drain systems into one, it is necessary to use tees or other appropriate fittings.

The last stage of laying the pipeline is connecting the line to the sewer well. For this, couplings are also used that connect all pipes of the external sewage system to each other and to the internal sewage system. When the pipes are mounted and installed in their places, the trench is covered with earth, and the work is completed.

The subtleties of arranging sewerage

There are some nuances that you have to deal with when installing a sewer:

Too deep level of soil freezing. With this phenomenon, the pipes must be laid too deep, and the amount of work will increase very much. You can avoid this phenomenon with the help of thermal insulation.

It can be done in two ways:

  • with the help of heat-insulating materials that do this job well;
  • with the help of electric heating, implemented by a cable stretched along the entire sewer line.
The need to maintain slope. It is imperative to observe the slope, and its value must be within the specified limits. The reason for this sounds like this: too little slope will not allow waste to move through the system, and the system will soon become clogged, and if the slope exceeds the norm, the water will move too quickly and will not be able to wash the pipes from the inside, which also leads to blockages.

Design choice. The selection of a sewer system is an individual question, and there is no universal answer to it. To make the choice of sewerage more understandable, it is worth reading an article about the types of sewer systems.

Conclusion

Installation of sewerage in a private house can be done with your own hands - even inexperienced craftsmen will not have any special problems. And if you stock up on some knowledge and carefully prepare for work, then the design will turn out to be reliable and will be able to function for a very long time and with high quality.

July 7, 2016
Specialization: master of interior and exterior decoration (plaster, putty, tile, drywall, wall paneling, laminate, and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.

Of course, it is best if the wiring of the sewerage in a private house with your own hands is carried out simultaneously with the laying of the foundation, even before the construction of the building box. Of course, this requires preliminary design and layout, but in this way you can avoid difficult passages through the foundation tape and dismantling the flooring.

But, despite such features, there are certain requirements for laying the pipeline, which I want to talk about in more detail and invite you to watch the video in this article.

Sewer pipeline installation

Five essential requirements

First, I want to list five basic requirements for you, without which not a single sewer pipe layout in a private house can do. But I will do it briefly to focus your attention on further installation instructions.

  1. In any case, wherever you lay the sewer pipeline - in a house, in an apartment, in a basement, by air or underground, you will have to observe a certain slope, and different for each diameter. Of particular importance are the main pipes leading to the storage or flow tank - the quality of the drain depends on the correct slope. If you make it more than necessary, then the water will wash the feces without washing them away, and if it is less, then again prerequisites for blockage will be created due to the low intensity of fluid movement.
  2. If this is a sewerage wiring in an apartment, then short sections of the pipeline are obtained there, but in a private house they increase significantly, which requires revisions. In addition, in cases where the length of the route exceeds 10 m on the site, revision wells should be equipped there.
  3. When laying a sewer system in a private house (meaning underground installation), certain distances to objects and structures should be observed, which are discussed in SNiP 2.04.03-85 and SNiP 2.04.01-85.
  4. In order to avoid freezing of the system in winter, the pipeline should be laid at or below the zero freezing point of the soil. But since in some regions of Russia this limit is deeper than two meters, in such cases they often resort to installing thermal insulation.
  5. Pipe laying should be done only on a sand cushion and covered with it, as shown in the photo in the subtitle. This protects the PVC from deformation and damage from sharp stones and metal objects.

Sewer wiring in the room

First of all, it should be firmly understood that the sewerage layout in a private house or apartment, that is, indoors, remains the same in principle. In 99%, the toilet drain will always be the most extreme point - this is a 110-mm pipe, where all the other bathrooms are already inserted - an example of such a device is shown in the upper diagram.

In any case, a 110 pipe is used at the exit from the room, whether it be a riser or a deck chair, although on the street or in the basement the diameter may increase if other sewage systems are connected there.

Of course, the slope is also important in the room - this does not apply except to the automatic washing machine, where the drain is forced - there is even a counter-slope, if required by the features of the room.

In addition, the room may have risers between floors or leading to the main sewage line - here, too, a diameter of 110 mm is used for polyvinyl chloride. But for the correct distribution of slopes, you'd better use the table that I give below.

Table of optimal and minimum slope for sewer pipes

For joining pipes to each other, turns and transitions to a different diameter, special fittings and rubber reductions are used - with their help, everything, even the most complex interchanges, is carried out. Basically, there is a sewerage distribution in the bathroom and toilet, that is, where most of the plumbing is concentrated, but a tie-in from the sink and dishwasher is also added there.

A washing machine can be installed both in the bathroom and in the kitchen and it is not necessary to make a separate drain for it. Currently, siphons are produced with a special outlet, as shown in the top photo.

By and large, a dishwasher can also be connected to such a branch, but I personally prefer to make a drain with a 32 mm pipe for this, cutting it into a 50 mm pipe through a tee and a rubber reduction - it’s more reliable.

The pipeline to the wall or floor must be fixed with metal or plastic brackets - they are sold in stores for any diameter you need. But such consoles occupy a certain place, and if the wiring is done in the basement or other technical room that does not have to be decorated, then this is exactly the fastener.

If you need to hide the pipes, then there are certain inconveniences. Personally, in such cases, I resort to perforated metal tape hangers - I simply pull the pipe to the plane with them, like a clamp - this saves space.

It happens that during assembly one pipe enters the socket of the other very tightly, while crushing the sealing rubber ring - this usually happens when elements from different manufacturers are connected.
In such cases, I lubricate the rubber ring with liquid dishwashing detergent and all problems are left behind.

Underground installation of the pipeline on the street

City and surrounding areas Depth in cm
Khanty-Mansiysk 240
Novosibirsk, Omsk 220
Ukhta, Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk 210
Orsk, Kurgan 200
Magnitogorsk, Chelyabinsk, Yekaterinburg, Perm 190
Orenburg, Ufa, Syktyvkar 180
Kazan, Kirov, Izhevsk 170
Samara, Ulyanovsk 160
Saratov, Penza, Nizhny Novgorod, Kostroma, Vologda 150
Tver, Moscow, Ryazan 140
St. Petersburg, Voronezh, Volgograd 120
Kursk, Smolensk, Pskov 110
Astrakhan, Belgorod 100
Rostov-on-Don 90
Stavropol 80
Kaliningrad 70
Khanty-Mansiysk 240
Novosibirsk, Omsk 220

Soil freezing table up to 0⁰C in Russia

As you can see from the table above, the depth of soil freezing in different regions of Russia is very different from each other. Moreover, this indicator may differ in the same area - this change is determined by the height of the site above sea level and the condition or type of soil.

Therefore, I recommend that you use existing experience to determine the depth of freezing. That is, simply to find out from neighbors or acquaintances at what depth their water supply is laid and whether it freezes - this is the best orientation.

As I said, the instructions for burying the pipeline are sometimes too difficult to follow due to the level of soil freezing in some regions. Therefore, if the route is mounted at a depth accessible to negative temperatures, you will need thermal insulation - extruded polystyrene foam, foamed polyethylene or mineral wool can be used for this.

There are also special heaters that are made in the form of a shell (with or without a foil coating) - they can be made of two halves, or in the form of the same pipe, but with a longitudinal section for installation.

I resort to shells only if the owner of the object wants it, since they are quite expensive, although of high quality. It is much cheaper to do this with mineral wool - wrap the pipeline, fix the cotton wool with a nylon thread, and then cover it all with roofing material, like a bandage - it is better to fix it with tape or wire.

Only wool is needed here either basalt or glass - slag wool has iron particles that rust, causing the insulation to sag.

You will nullify everything if, after insulating the track, you leave revision wells, storage tanks and a septic tank without insulation - you will get bare areas that will be. For their insulation, you can also use mineral wool or polystyrene, but it is much cheaper to do it with expanded clay, but it also needs waterproofing - just cover the pit with roofing material.

Table of required distances between various objects and sewers

In the third paragraph of the heading about important requirements, I mentioned the norms of distances that must be maintained between sewers and various objects and structures - these norms are indicated in the table above. But, unfortunately, it is not always possible to clearly adhere to such provisions, or your “friendly” neighbors may unreasonably assert this.

Therefore, you can formalize all this by inviting representatives of the BTI and signing an act of acceptance of the system and outlets of the internal sewerage - this will solve such problems.

Laying stages: 1 - pour the pillow; 2 - lay the pipe; 3 - close it with sand

And now I will tell you how the process of laying the pipeline into the trench with your own hands to the storage or flow tank takes place - the essence of the process is shown in the photographs above. After you have dug a trench, you need to fill in a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 29 mm and plan it in accordance with the required slope (on the 110th pipe 18-20 mm / linear m).

Then you lay the highway itself, check the slope again and again fill it with sand so that the layer thickness above the upper wall reaches 5-6 cm - this will prevent sharp stones and metal objects from breaking through the pipe under soil pressure.

Before filling the trench with soil, you need to compact the sand, but due to the volatility of the material, this is quite difficult to do.
I do it differently - I pour plenty of water on the sand, and it immediately sags to the desired state, after which you can immediately pour the soil.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I want to add that you may need to insulate the pipeline not only underground, but also in the house if the walls are not thick enough. In addition, thermal insulation does not cancel the sand cushion. But if you have any questions about this topic - ask them in the comments.

July 7, 2016

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The system is one of the most important and expensive engineering communications of a private residential building. The efficiency of functioning, the complexity of installation, the number and cost of elements of this system depend on the development of the project. The graphic part of the project documentation, in accordance with which the sewerage system is installed in a private house with your own hands - the layout of plumbing devices, connections and revisions. This article provides information on regulatory requirements and the main problems of drawing up layout diagrams, criteria for choosing sewer equipment and the features of its installation.

Read in the article

Rules for drawing up a sewerage scheme with your own hands in a private house

When drawing up a sewerage scheme, it is necessary to take into account regulatory requirements, both sanitary and construction:

  • TCP 45-4.01-51-2007"Water supply and sewerage systems of manor houses";
  • SanPiN 42-128-4690-88"Sanitary rules for the maintenance of territories of populated areas";
  • SanPiN 4630"Sanitary rules and norms for the protection of surface waters from pollution";
  • SNiP 30-02-97"Planning and development of territories of horticultural associations of citizens, buildings and structures."

When determining the volume and capacity of sewer pipelines, it is necessary to focus on the average water consumption per person. Sumps and cesspools should not be located closer than 4 m to the border of the neighboring plot and 15 m to drinking water.


The scheme should describe the mechanism for connecting the internal and external sewage, the type and structure of the septic tank, what products and equipment will be used, its technical parameters. Based on the list of materials used, the cost is calculated. The graphic part should be linked to the plan of the house and the backyard, where the places for laying pipelines and installing plumbing products will be indicated.

Key Factors Affecting Layout and Design

In addition to calculating the average daily water consumption, the following factors influence the design of the sewerage scheme:

  • The magnitude of the volley discharge- peak load on the sewerage system (as a rule, falls on the morning and evening hours), which depends on the number of plumbing fixtures installed in the house;
  • Performance of treatment facilities. Depending on this indicator, one of three options for the disposal of treated wastewater is selected:
  1. up to 5 m 3 / day - discharge into the soil. Provided that the soil filtration coefficient has comparable indicators, and the discharge point is 1 m above the groundwater level;
  2. up to 0.3 m 3 / day - periodic removal by a special vehicle is allowed;
  3. The discharge of wastewater into a reservoir is regulated not only by their quantity, but also by the degree of treatment in accordance with the requirements of SanPiN 4630.
  • M material for the manufacture of sewage treatment plants:, fiberglass, metal, various polymers (, polyethylene). The design of the structure, the method of installation, further maintenance and operation depend on the technical characteristics of the material;
  • Power supply. Modern highly efficient treatment facilities are equipped with various types of compressors and aerators. They are based on electronic control units to which temperature and liquid level detectors are connected;
  • Building site topology- terrain, slope direction, proximity to water bodies and the presence of potential places for discharge of treated sewage water;
  • Geodesy of the construction site- the type and structure of the soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater are determined. The complexity and cost of installation work, the need for additional or the purchase of a sealed septic tank with a closed cleaning cycle depend on these factors.

Varieties of sewer facilities and features of their functioning

In accordance with TKP 45-4.01-51-2007, the following types of treatment facilities are allowed for the arrangement and laying of sewers in a private house:

  • septic tank;
  • filter well;
  • underground filtration field;
  • filter trench;

Important! In most cases, the listed facilities should be used in conjunction with a septic tank, which performs primary rough cleaning.

septic tank

The most common, when arranging a sewer for a private house with your own hands, are two types of septic tanks:

Cumulative - are sealed plastic containers. They are affordable, do not require connection to the power supply network, and can be installed in close proximity to sources / wells of drinking water. A significant disadvantage is the need for constant pumping of wastewater, therefore, constant payment for sewage services.


With soil cleaning. Primary treatment of sewage water is carried out in sealed containers, where large fecal fractions settle to the bottom and are exposed to anaerobic bacteria. “Clarified” wastewater, the degree of purification of which does not exceed 40%, is pumped forcibly or falls by gravity into the filtration facilities, from which, after the final stage of cleaning, they seep into the ground.

Filter well

Effluent entering the tank passes through a gravel filter and seeps through it to the bottom and perforated walls, and from there into the ground.


  1. pipe;
  2. Plate chipper;
  3. Pipe for the flow of waste.

For arrangement, solid or perforated reinforced concrete rings with a height of 0.9 m, an internal diameter of at least 1.0 m and a wall thickness of 8 cm are used. excessive soil pollution. As a material for making walls, it is often used (with holes in the masonry), large-diameter plastic or car tires. Such options are much cheaper, but significantly reduce the life of the structure.

Underground filtration field

On the site lay with perforated walls. Through them, runoff is distributed over a large drainage area and soaked into the soil, passing more evenly and in small quantities through the gravel pack. This method is associated with a significant amount of earthwork. When determining the depth of the pit, it is necessary to take into account:

  • Gravel filter thickness - 20÷50 cm;
  • Diameter of perforated pipes - 20÷50 cm;
  • The distance from the soil surface to the upper edge of the filtration pipeline is 50 cm.

In addition, when forming the bottom of the pit, it is necessary to provide for a slope from the septic tank along the flow direction of 2 cm per linear meter. The distance between the pipes depends on the type of soil. For sand with a filtration coefficient of 5 ÷ 25 m/day - 2.5 m. For coarse sand filler with a filtration coefficient of 25 ÷ 100 m/day and a gravel filter with a filtration coefficient of 75 ÷ 300 m/day - a distance reduction of up to 2 m is allowed.

At the ends of filtration pipelines, it is mandatory to install a 100 mm diameter, at least 70 cm high above the soil surface.


filter trench

The filter trench performs the same functions as the underground filtration field, collecting wastewater after a septic tank, their additional treatment and discharge into the ground. A significant difference is the vertical arrangement of the pipes. This method is no less effective and can be implemented on a much smaller area. Allowed only in areas with a deep water table, since the trench must also have a significant depth.


The total length of the pipeline and the number of pipes and the depth of the trench is calculated according to the same methodology used for underground filtration fields. The width of the trench is taken according to the standard of 0.5 m, the distance between the upper and lower pipes is 0.8 ÷ 1 m, the maximum length of the pipeline is 30 m. If it is necessary to arrange from 2 or more trenches, the distance between them must be at least 3 m.


STP scheme components

The most effective for a private house are sewer systems related to deep biological treatment plants. They are sealed containers, divided into several functional compartments. As a rule, they have a vertical orientation, can be installed by hand and do not take up much space. The principle of operation of such installations is the interaction of fecal matter and organic pollutants with anaerobic bacteria in an environment saturated with air using aeration installations.

Important! Biological treatment plants require some maintenance. First of all, it is necessary to maintain an optimal population of anaerobic bacteria by periodically adding a special concentrate to the appropriate compartment. In everyday life, do not use overly aggressive chemicals that can destroy bacteria. The unit must be connected to the power supply.

The cleaning process is carried out in stages:

  1. In the first section, which occupies the largest volume, the pollutants are separated into fractions. Heavy and insoluble substances sink to the bottom. This chamber must be periodically cleaned with a car vacuum cleaner;
  2. In the second section (aerotank), wastewater is enriched with atmospheric oxygen by aeration. This is where the active phase of cleaning takes place by biodegradation by bacteria;
  3. In the third section - a sump, activated sludge is settled;
  4. From the fourth section, where water enters with the help of a jet pump from the secondary clarifier, completely purified water is discharged from the treatment device through an overflow pipe or a drainage pump.

Internal sewerage device in a private house - diagram and recommendations

The composition of the internal sewerage includes the following elements;

  • Plumbing fixtures:,;
  • Sewer riser and ventilation pipe attached to it;
  • Branch lines;
  • Check valve.

Horizontal pipelines are installed with a slope. When laying sewers in a private house, the normative indicators of the slope are often neglected, making it “by eye”, significantly exceeding the recommended coefficient. As a result, sewage solids do not have time to be washed out of the pipes along with water, they accumulate inside, creating traffic jams.

Table of dependence of the slope on the diameter of sewer pipes for a private house of pipes

Diameter, mm Optimal slope Minimum allowable slope
50 0,035 0,025
100 0,02 0,012
150 0,01 0,007
200 0,008 0,003

Connection to the riser of branch pipelines is carried out using oblique tees and crosses. Installation of sewer pipes, utility and technical rooms is allowed to be carried out in an open way. Fastening is carried out with special couplings with dowels, or pipes are located on supports. In residential premises, as a rule, hidden installation is performed. Sewer pipelines are located in technical niches and shafts, ducts, under the floor. For maintenance - periodic cleaning, the main riser and drainage sewer lines are equipped with revisions in accordance with the standards:

  • Sewer riser on the lower and upper floors of a private house;
  • Branch lines to which three or more plumbing fixtures are connected;
  • At the bends of the pipeline (this is where solid insoluble waste residues most often accumulate);
  • On leprous horizontal areas every 8 m.

Video of arranging a sewer in a private house with your own hands, the correct laying of pipes with a slope:

Which pipes to choose

The optimal material for pipes for sewerage of a private house are polymers. Products made from them are lightweight and can be installed by hand without the involvement of assistants. The industry produces a large number of adapters, tees, crosses and couplings across the entire range of diameters used. Installation is carried out without the use of specialized equipment and does not require long-term training and special skills. The exemplary material is not subject to corrosion and aggressive effects of household chemicals, it has a long service life. For the sewerage of a private house, the following polymers are most often used:

  • PVP (high density polyethylene)- Affordable, but sensitive to temperature changes. The maximum operating temperature should not exceed +40°С;
  • PP()– has good performance, maximum operating temperature +100°C, withstands aggressive chemicals and significant mechanical stress, has a rather high cost;
  • PVC (polyvinyl chloride)- material with the best combination of cost and quality. It can be used for both external and internal sewerage. Resistant to ultraviolet radiation, mechanical impacts of medium intensity, temperatures up to +70°C. However, during long-term operation, plaque may appear on the walls, which leads to clogging.

Pipe connection

The most common way to install a plastic pipeline is a socket connection. It is performed if the pipe or fitting has a corresponding structural element - a socket. The connection process is as follows:

  • The bell and the smooth end are cleared of pollution;
  • A rubber seal is inserted into a special recess inside the socket, ensuring the tightness of the joints;
  • Lubricate the smooth end of the other pipe with silicone grease or ordinary liquid soap, after which it can be easily inserted into the socket until it stops;

Important! It is necessary to provide for the possibility of thermal expansion. To do this, a marker is made on the smooth part of the pipe, after which it is pulled 1 cm out of the socket.


Do-it-yourself stages of work on sewerage in a private house

The sequence of arranging the sewer system of a private house can be divided into several stages:

  1. Determination of the amount of wastewater, the volume and performance of the septic tank;
  2. Determination of the location of the septic tank on the plot in accordance with sanitary standards;
  3. The device of the internal sewer network;
  4. Installation of external treatment facilities;
  5. Laying of the pipeline and connections of external treatment facilities and internal sewerage.

Calculation of the volume of a septic tank

Table of water consumption standards for a private residential building.

Type of housing and type of life Consumption, l / day for 1 person
Residential building equipped with plumbing and sewerage system without bath125÷160
A residential building equipped with a water supply and sewerage system with a bathroom and a local one looks like this:

V = n × Q × 3 / 1000 , where

V - the volume of the septic tank in m 3;

n – number of permanent residents;

Q - average water consumption per person in m 3;

3 - the number of days of the complete cleaning cycle (according to SNiP).

For example, with an average consumption of 0.2 m 3 / person / day, taking into account a three-day reservation, a family of 4 will need a septic tank with a volume of 2.4 m 3. To facilitate calculations, we have developed a handy calculator especially for our readers.

Calculator for calculating the required volume of a septic tank based on the number of residents

For year-round operation of a private residential building During seasonal operation of a country house
gravel, crushed stone0.15÷0.200.18÷0.24
coarse sand0.10÷0.150.12÷0.18
0.05÷0.100.06÷0.12

Table of the volume of domestic wastewater per 1 linear meter of the pipeline of the underground filtration field:

Composition of the filtrate The maximum volume of treated sewage, m 3 / day per 1 m linear drainage pipeline
Up to 500 500÷600 Over 600
Gravel, crushed stone, coarse sand0.012÷0.0250.0096÷0.02250.0084÷0.02
Fine sand, sandy loam0.006÷0.0200.0048÷0.180.0042÷0.016

Table of the volume of domestic wastewater per 1 linear meter of the filtration trench pipeline.

Do-it-yourself internal sewerage wiring in a private house

The efficiency of the sewer system of a private house, as well as the ease of arranging it with your own hands, depends on the layout of the entire structure. It is considered optimal if the kitchen and bathroom are located as close as possible to each other, this minimizes the length of the sewer pipeline and allows you to connect all plumbing fixtures to one riser. When installing the internal sewerage system of a private house with your own hands, the following factors must be considered:

  • it is necessary to connect directly to the main riser of the sewer system at the minimum possible distance from the pipe, this will reduce the likelihood of blockage of the plumbing fixture;
  • It is recommended that other plumbing fixtures be connected to the sewer network above the toilet connection level, this will exclude the possibility of fecal masses entering the outlet lines;
  • Piping must be rotated using several angled elbows. For example, two 45° or three 30°, this will provide a smoother turn and avoid clogging;
  • The sewer riser is necessarily displayed on the roof, where a fan hood is mounted on it, providing a sewer inside; Ways to connect the toilet to the sewer riser

    Installation and equipment of the sewage tank

    For the installation of a septic tank, regardless of its model, a pit breaks out with dimensions slightly larger than the dimensions of the tank. At the bottom of the pit, a sand cushion about 10 cm thick is arranged. It is compacted and leveled as much as possible. To install septic tanks in the pit, it is recommended to use lifting construction equipment, since some models have a rather significant weight. In most cases, fasteners are provided on the case. After installation, the container must be leveled. Neck extensions may be required depending on the design.

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Owning your own home is the dream of many people. There is nothing better than your own corner, provided with all amenities. However, everyone wants to surround themselves with comfort, and the outdoor toilet, along with the need to carry water from the well, is a thing of the past. In this regard, the question became relevant: “How is a sewerage scheme created in a private house with your own hands?”.

Creating a sewer for a private house is not as difficult as it seems

Before starting construction, it is necessary to determine the type of sewerage scheme in a private house. With your own hands, you can create several varieties that will have their pros and cons.

The most popular are the following varieties:

  • Drain well. Simply put, an ordinary pit that accumulates all waste and sewage. Such a structure is inexpensive, does not take much time during construction. The sequence of actions is simple - dig a hole at a distance of twenty meters from the house. The calculation of its volume is based on indicators of 0.7 cubic meters per person. To strengthen the walls, it is recommended to use brickwork or concrete rings. After that, for additional sealing, the seams are coated with bitumen. The bottom of the pit can be filled with concrete so that the wastewater does not poison the soil. Upon completion of construction, install a hatch for the subsequent removal of liquid. This is the simplest sewerage scheme in private houses, created by the owner with his own hands. However, such an arrangement is relevant, rather, for country houses than for a full-fledged living space;
  • An equally well-known method is the instillation of a closed container. This structure functions on the same principle as the drain pit. A special tank is buried in the ground, the volume of which is calculated according to the number of people living. The main waste lines are brought to the hatch of the tank. Drain water accumulates in the tank without polluting the surrounding area. A significant disadvantage of this method can be considered the need for constant cleaning.

  • A septic tank is difficult to build, but at the same time the most reliable sewerage system in a private house, the scheme, laying depth and components of which can guarantee efficient operation for many years. During construction, it is necessary to choose a suitable place for the future well. Distance from the house should not be less than twenty meters. Further, the walls of the pit are securely reinforced with bricks, the recommended thickness of the masonry is twenty-five centimeters. We carefully concrete the bottom, after which we proceed to laying the drain. Position it above the water. Do not forget to provide a hole through which the liquid will be removed.


Useful information! Deciding which option to choose should be based on the funds that you expect to spend during construction. The above examples differ both in the high cost of the elements and in the time costs.

In addition, do-it-yourself sewage installation in a private house depends on the layout of the dwelling and the number of people who regularly live in it. Experts recommend placing rooms such as a kitchen, bathroom and toilet nearby. This configuration makes it possible to allocate a single collector for their service, through which the waste liquid will flow into a septic tank or sewage pit.

If the house turns out to be too large, and its layout provides for a significant removal of the kitchen from other rooms with drainage, it will be required. It is necessary to take care of separate drainage, as well as provide for the possibility for pumping out drain water. Owners should take care to install risers to provide water to the upper rooms.

Related article:

In the article, we will consider options for a drainage device, how to make a reliable system with your own hands, the average cost of the work of specialists.

The components that make up the sewer for private houses with their own hands

The drainage system consists of basic elements, each of which performs its own functions. The first place in the list is occupied by the communications of the premises. Pipes and hoses located in rooms and performing the function of drainage. Laid in rooms with plumbing, at the exit they are combined by a collector, through which the waste liquid leaves.


Further, the main functions are taken over by external communications. The pipeline installed on the street is most often dug into the ground or protected by a casing. Separate drains from utility rooms can be connected to it, for example,. The main task of this node is the delivery of wastewater to the receiving device.

The final stage in the chain is the storage tank, the main function of which is to store water and other waste. Depending on the complexity of the system, the receiving device can either simply be filled with water or filter sewage.

Do-it-yourself sewerage laying in private houses: video tips and more

At the first stage, the soil layer should be carefully examined for special characteristics. When looking for a site for a drain well, you need to pay attention to:

  • Slopes, potholes and other natural depressions on your site;
  • Free access to vehicles for cleaning the storage tank;
  • Remoteness from economic constructions and fences.

In most cases, country houses are used seasonally and do not live there regularly. Therefore, do-it-yourself sewerage in private houses can do with a small receiving capacity.

Useful information! If you adhere to sanitary and building codes, the sewage pit must be located at a distance of at least five meters from other buildings. Experienced builders recommend increasing this distance as much as possible to isolate the house from unpleasant odors.

It is best to dig the hole in a low-lying area to provide a natural slope for runoff. Try to avoid such an arrangement in order to prevent accidents.

This video will help you understand how to draw up a diagram and plan for a drainage system:

Selection of parts and fittings for sewerage

The next step in construction is the selection of components. The quality of the fittings and other parts you choose will determine the durability and quality of the entire system.

Going to a specialized store, you need to know that the pipeline is divided into external and internal. The first combines high conductivity, resistance to high and low temperatures, as well as chemical and biological substances. These communications must freely pass water and be hermetically connected to the outlet manifold.

The external pipeline has the same qualities, with the addition of specific features. Its surface can withstand the load of the earth, because such communications are buried to a depth of two meters. In addition, these pipes are absolutely hermetic and pass according to international technical parameters.

When choosing communications, pay attention to the material from which they are made. There are the following types:

  • cast iron;

  • steel;

  • Copper;

  • Reinforced concrete;

  • Asbestos-cement;

  • Ceramic;

  • Plastic.

Each material has specific features suitable for certain conditions.

In addition to the main "arteries", fittings are important. These parts are used to connect the laid pipes to the drainage system.

To perform various functions, such varieties are provided as:

  • Couplings - used to connect pipe segments;

  • Reductions - for connecting ends of various diameters;

  • Revisions - to remove blockages and dirt;

  • Tees - to create branches;