When by different reasons there is a need to expand the living space of a private house, the most economical and technologically simple option is frame extension. Its advantage is the speed of construction with your own hands with a minimum skill of working with carpentry tool. Step-by-step instructions for the stages of construction with photographs will help to make a useful and beautiful outbuilding as in the video, which will last for many years.
Appointment of the extension
So that the extension does not subsequently have to be transformed, even at the planning stage, you should consider the nuances of the design. First, decide on the purpose of the new premises.
- Additional room. The construction of an additional room is tantamount to building a house with a small area. All structures of the new building must be thoroughly insulated, otherwise the heating of such a room will be inefficient due to the large heat loss. You should not save on waterproofing and insulation of the foundation, otherwise dampness and mold on the walls will make it impossible to live in such a room.
- Kitchen or bathroom. Take care of the summation engineering communications before you start building the foundation. Places where water pipes pass or sewer pipes through the foundation must be well insulated. This is easier and cheaper to do at the construction stage.
- The veranda is a light extension to the house of an open or glazed type. Is used for summer holiday. The building is not heated, so the design is extremely simple: flooring, walls and roof on supports. Do not forget about harmony, the veranda should be combined with the house in terms of scale, style and construction materials.
We select the base
The veranda can be attached or built-in. If the second one is planned at the stage of building a house, then for the first one you will need to build a separate foundation. With a gap from the wall of about 40 mm. Otherwise, when shrinking monolithic base will collapse due to different weight verandas and houses. The seismicity of the soil and the weight of the future building are taken into account. A lightweight foundation erected on soil prone to heaving will “lead”, and the extension will move away from the house. Such a base is designed for light walls, under the weight brickwork shrinkage is inevitable.
For construction use different materials: concrete, brick, stone, piles of wood, metal or concrete. It is important to choose the right depth and type of foundation for the extension:
- tape;
- slab;
- columnar;
- pile;
- pile-grillage.
In private construction, when erecting a base for a veranda, a columnar or tape structure is most often used. Let us consider in more detail the step-by-step instructions for arranging the foundations.
Strip foundation
For large and heavy buildings, a tape type of foundation is chosen. It is advisable to perform it from concrete in this sequence.
Important. Before erecting walls on the foundation, it is necessary to apply waterproofing. Use roll materials or mastic.
Column Foundation
For light frame veranda appropriate erection columnar base, which is erected from brick, rubble stone or concrete. Or a combination of these materials. Pits under the pillars are dug to a depth below the freezing of the soil. The step between the posts is about 60 cm. The sequence of work:
- dig square holes 50 x 50 cm. Sand is poured into the bottom and carefully compacted;
- lay a layer concrete mortar, and after complete setting, they begin to erect brick supports. Use the level so that the masonry is strictly vertical;
- concrete support is made similarly to the tape type of foundation: wrapped inner part formwork waterproofed and inserted reinforced frame. The form is filled with concrete, and the top is leveled. Wet concrete a couple of times a day to avoid cracking;
- after complete drying, the formwork is removed, waterproofing is applied to the pole, covered with several layers of roofing material on top - the material will protect wooden beam floors from getting wet;
- the remaining voids are filled backfill: soil mixed with crushed stone is poured, its ramming is carried out every 15 cm of the layer.
Important. The height of the foundation pillars is calculated so that the distance to the finishing floor of the extension is 30 cm.
Floor: wood or concrete
A concrete or wooden floor is arranged on a tape type foundation. The base on the pillars is obviously calculated for arranging a wooden floor. Let's take a look at both technologies.
Construction of the frame and walls
Wall structures are erected from timber, fastened to previously assembled crown beams of the strapping. Wall elements are assembled on a flat area in a horizontal position, and then the finished wall shield is mounted in a vertical position, or each beam is connected to the beam in series. Step-by-step instruction:
- On the lower strapping bars, every 50 cm, make a cut for vertical racks.
- Mount the racks, fixing with corners and screws.
- Assemble the top harness.
- The veranda is connected to the house by attaching a vertical bar to the wall.
- Fix all racks adjacent to the house with anchor bolts.
- It is better to sheathe the finished "skeleton" of the veranda immediately with outside plywood, boards or OSB. This will give the structure rigidity.
- After erecting and insulating the roof, insert windows and doors.
Covering and roofing
Shed type of roof is combined with almost any roof of the house, therefore it is the most common configuration. Let's consider it.
Wall and floor insulation
Used as an insulating material for walls mineral wool. The mats are easily and quickly laid between the frame bars, as can be seen in the photo. When laying insulation in several layers, the mats are shifted relative to each other in order to exclude heat loss through the connecting seams. The insulation is closed on both sides with a vapor and wind insulating material that will protect the material from moisture accumulation, and sheathed on top finishing material. Internal walls can be sheathed with chipboard, drywall and covered with wallpaper or lined with clapboard. For outer wall use wood, siding, or materials that match the finish of the home.
Wall cake towards outer wall looks like that:
- internal lining;
- vapor barrier;
- insulation material;
- wind insulation;
- outer lining.
The floor on wooden logs is insulated in the same way as walls: mineral wool is laid on the subfloor between the logs, having previously covered the boards waterproofing membrane. A second layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation, and then leveled with plywood. After that, they mount the final flooring.
A concrete floor can be insulated similarly to a wooden one, apply a dry screed, make concrete screed and equip water or electric heating.
Home craftsmen often overlook the need to comply with safety regulations. Use funds personal protection and a well-functioning reliable tool, and then from the construction of the extension you will have only the warmest memories.
Frame extension on piles: video
Frame extension to the house: photo
To protect against moisture extension flooring it is necessary to arrange reliable waterproofing floors, which protects the overlying layers from penetration ground water. Preparation is carried out depending on the type of soil, making, if necessary, its excavation to the required depth. For example, wet soils have a soft base, so concrete preparation during soft base arrange on a bedding layer of sand with a thickness of 200 ÷ 300 mm and crushed stone with a thickness of at least 40 mm. For device floors in the annex in residential buildings, crushed stone is pressed into the ground with a rammer or roller until the roller weighing approximately 70 kg leaves no traces of the passage on the ground. It is a good idea to impregnate the gravel bedding with a uniform continuous layer of hot bituminous primer about 6 mm thick, on top of which a carpet of rolled or film waterproofing materials can be spread.
According to the compacted crushed stone preparation, the underlying layer is made of M-300 grade concrete. And in this case, it is desirable to introduce special hydrophobic additives into the concrete to ensure increased water resistance of the floors. The thickness of the concrete layer is taken depending on the planned loads on the floors. If in the annex to residential building will not install any production equipment, floors can be accepted with a thickness of approximately 100mm. Laying concrete mix must be carried out continuously: the interval between the end of the compaction of one layer and the laying of the next layer should not exceed 1 hour. Special attention should be given to the compaction of concrete at the junction of the bottoms and walls, as well as at the fittings and embedded parts available, if necessary. By concrete preparation penetrating waterproofing can be performed.
Then the floors are covered with heated bitumen with a layer thickness of at least 2 mm. After that, a coating of waterproofing or other similar material is spread on the unhardened primer layer in strips, connecting the strips with an overlap of 100 ÷ 200 mm and coating the seam with bitumen. If the groundwater level is high, then it is advisable to apply a second layer on the floor after that. bituminous mastic not less than 5 mm thick, leveling it with a toothed rack.
Over hardened bituminous waterproofing, without violating its integrity, they arrange a heat-insulating layer. As a heater, you can also use the materials indicated in the question, the thickness of the layer of which depends on the required conditions.
On top of the heat-insulating layer, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing carpet on the walls with the factory and make a protective reinforced cement-sand floor screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm. In this case, the fittings must have a protective concrete layer not less than 30mm. Preventing the complete drying of the cement-sand screed, it is necessary to perform its “ironization” - grouting the top layer of the floor with dry cement.
Unfortunately, the message does not indicate what kind of flooring is planned in the future - you are not going to walk barefoot on concrete floors. Therefore, if you are going to lay a laminate, parquet or some other material, then so that the moisture from concrete base did not penetrate into the flooring, it is necessary to first lay a film waterproofing.
Foundation for non-bearing internal partitions in a residential building it is possible to perform the type of tape shallow, which is a concrete or reinforced concrete strip. Lay the tape under internal walls buildings, keeping the same shape cross section along the entire perimeter of the foundation. To attach it to the foundation under the outer walls, you can use rebar pins that are laid in holes drilled in the "old" foundation.
For the construction of the foundation, they dig a trench 500 ÷ 700 mm deep, at the bottom of which they make sand backfill 200÷300mm thick, and on top of it crushed stone layer 150÷200mm. Sandy must, wetting, carefully tamp. Having installed the formwork, the foundation strip is poured with concrete, which should be 200 ÷ 300 mm above the ground level. To increase the strength characteristics, steel reinforcement can be laid in the foundation body.
The width of such a foundation depends on the thickness of the partitions, as well as on whether the floor beams will rest on it.
Country houses are in fashion today. Someone is a happy owner of a summer house, and many even prefer to live away from the bustle of the city. Of course, everyone strives to make their homes more comfortable and beautiful, so they decorate them with verandas and terraces. These extensions must be distinguished. If you do not go into the essence, then the terrace is an open area without walls, and the veranda is part of the house, but, as a rule, without heating.
In summer, such rooms are good for various gatherings, but with the onset of the cold season, they are no longer used. However, you can not deny yourself and your loved ones in the usual pastime. Warming the veranda will help keep it cozy at any time of the year. Of course, it is best to think about this at the construction stage, but even in a finished purchased house or in a veranda attached later, you can correct the situation.
So, it makes no sense to insulate the terrace, but you can take care of the comfort on the veranda. As a rule, insulation is a set of measures aimed at improving the heat-saving properties of walls, windows, ceilings, but you need to start from the floor, because the cold rises from below.
The procedure will depend on how the floor is made, which can be concrete, laid on a solid foundation, as well as wooden on supports.
Bottom insulation
Floor insulation on a concrete base
- Doing concrete foundation for the future veranda, you need to start work with backfill sand and gravel cushion. river sand(or another, the main thing is not to be small and without clay impurities) are poured into a foundation pit and rammed. Then comes a layer of crushed stone or gravel, which also needs to be compacted.
Such a pillow will not let the cold coming from below to concrete slab, and protect it from capillary moisture, which can rise through channels less than 0.5 mm wide. The thickness of the layers of sand and stone depends on the type of soil and structures being built. - Over stone for greater reliability laying reinforcing mesh from rods with a cross section of 10-12 mm and pour the foundation with a solution based on frost-resistant concrete.
- Concrete is covered with a layer of waterproofing: roofing felt or similar material, and on top is laid insulation layer. For example, you can take mineral wool boards.
- The heater, in turn, is also covered a layer of waterproofing film, and already on top of all this “pie” reinforced concrete slabs are laid or a reinforced screed is made.
Such a foundation will be a good obstacle to the cold rising from the ground, and will also protect the veranda from dampness. In addition, the concrete floor allows you to take additional measures for warming.
Floor insulation on supports or piles
With this type of foundation, the floor is usually made of wood. Air circulates under it, so it will be very cold on the veranda in winter.
- Warming begins with measures to block access to cold air under the veranda. To do this, along the perimeter of the floor, marked with supports, you need to build a formwork.
- The second step is backfilling the resulting underground with expanded clay. On top of it, you can lay a film for vapor barrier and additionally lay insulation. Of course, before such actions, you will need to remove the existing floor.
basement insulation
External insulation of the foundation is another way to save the heat of the veranda. In addition, the soil, expanding or decreasing in volume under the influence of air temperature, can deform the foundation. Such a problem is solved quite simply, by gluing the base around the entire perimeter with a heater. Usually these are expanded polystyrene plates, which will become an obstacle to the cold, and also prevent contact with the ground.
A less budgetary, but more reliable option would be to use extruded polystyrene foam, which has the necessary strength, is not afraid of moisture and cold, and its service life is more than 50 years. Before gluing the insulation boards, the foundation is smeared with bitumen or bitumen-polymer mastic, which is not afraid of low temperatures.
There is another option to insulate the basement, the newest, expensive, but also reliable. This is a polyurethane foam coating. liquid foundation sprayed with special equipment on the walls, and after drying, the foam becomes solid, monolithic, without a single seam.
Top insulation
Such methods are good when you can’t get to the bottom of the foundation, but you still want to make the floor warm. However, even with an insulated foundation, thermal insulation measures will also not be superfluous. main feature of all work with the finished floor - raising its level, which occurs due to the laying of various heat-insulating materials.
concrete floor insulation
Underfloor heating system
Since the veranda is not heated, this solution will be ideal for maintaining comfortable temperature in room. And it is recommended electrical system, and not water, since the cable is not afraid of frost, which cannot be said about pipes with water.
Pretty labor intensive, but reliable option, which requires the use of durable insulating material in the form of plates or mats. It can be expanded polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool.
A wooden floor can be very beautiful, and country houses it is often customary to decorate with just such coatings. Wooden floors can be laid on any base, taking care of the insulation at the same time.
One of the insulation options is sprayed materials. This is quite expensive and requires the work to be carried out by specialists using special equipment. The use of such a heater will require cleaning the floor from debris, bitumen drips, greasy spots and solvents. It is not necessary to lay transverse bars between the lags - the future spraying forms a fairly dense heat-insulating layer. The foam is applied with a special device that mixes a special liquid composition With carbon dioxide and spray under pressure.
The crate filled with insulation must be covered with another layer of film or penofol, a relatively new material, which is polyethylene foam on an aluminized substrate. It is laid with the substrate up and slightly crumpled into the cells so that there is space for floor ventilation.
Now you can lay the boards treated with an antiseptic on top, attaching them with self-tapping screws. The boards are located perpendicular to the lags, but instead of them, if desired, plywood is laid or GVL sheets, and only then - the finish coat.
Wooden floor insulation
There is an opinion that it is easier to insulate a wooden floor than a concrete one, but this is not entirely true. Of course, you don’t have to do a screed, but you still need to work hard.
Infrared warm floor
This is an alternative electrical cable, which fits into the screed layer and is therefore not suitable for wooden floors. The only requirement that must be observed for laying such a system is the non-toxicity of the floor materials when heated, and in all other respects this is a good option for maintaining heat on the veranda.
This method is the main one for warming wooden floors. In terms of the sequence of actions, it is similar to the previously described one, only the foundation is prepared differently.
In addition to all the methods described earlier, you can use the flooring of special types of linoleum or laminate, which are able to retain heat, as well as carpet.
Warming the floor on the veranda is the best thing to do in the process of building this extension, but with a special desire, you can start work at any time. It cannot be said that the complex of actions is extremely simple and accessible to anyone. The mere ability to hold a hammer in your hands will not be enough to get the job done, but those who are confident in their abilities and have, albeit a small, but still building experience well they can do it all on their own.
The main thing is to choose the materials that are most suitable in terms of price and quality, because the success of any repair consists of two components: the skill of the workers and the quality of the tools and tools used.
Hello, I have such a problem, before choosing how best to do it: a basement from the ground is 70 cm, an extension of 3 rooms (kitchen, corridor, bathroom) to the main house of expanded clay concrete, I plan logs in the corridor and kitchen board 50x150, but in I can't decide on a bathroom. Or the same such logs or pour concrete at such a height? Make shields or plates straight to buy and put. Tell me, please, if I lay the same logs, I plan to lay tiles in the future, will it not tear there?
Answer to the question
Your problem in the bathroom can be solved in two ways:
- In the bathroom, put the same logs as in the rest of the rooms, make a rough floor, put insulation, waterproofing, put a finishing floor from the floor, parquet board, at worst - from a laminate. And it is not at all necessary to make a concrete floor and lay tiles. Why solutions suitable for multi-storey buildings bring into your house? Get a warm wooden floor. If the wood is well protected, first with an antiseptic, then with varnish or paint, then such floors will last for many years.
- If you make a concrete floor, then lay wooden logs not worth it. It is easier to make an insulated concrete floor. A height of 70 cm is a lot for pouring completely with concrete, so first pour the foundation with the earth that remained during the construction of the pit. Then make a sand cushion, spill it, tamp it down. Put waterproofing on top, for example, roofing material in two layers, lay insulation, for example, foam plastic 10 cm thick, waterproof again and pour a concrete pad with reinforcement at least 10 cm thick. And then lay it on this floor pie floor tiles or porcelain stoneware.
In the room and kitchen, I would not advise making concrete floors. From my point of view, wooden floors preferred in your home. And they keep the heat well and it's nice to walk with your feet. And it is very beautiful if you keep the pattern of the wood texture. AT high-rise buildings lay floor slabs reinforced concrete slabs, therefore it is more technologically advanced to lay tiles on them. If you decide to create concrete floors, then you can make warm water or electric floors at the same time, which is now very fashionable. An electric floor is easier to install than a water heated floor. Especially if you mount it from electrical mats, as shown in the second figure. But a water heated floor is more economical. But in any case, it is necessary to insulate concrete floors well from cold ground so as not to heat the surroundings. The choice, as always, is yours.
