The adjoining of the blind area to the monolithic foundation. Blind area around the house: preparation, advice on drainage. Step-by-step instructions for creating a blind area with your own hands, as an element of outdoor design

Far from the problems of construction, people often consider the blind area a convenient path around the house. My friend knows that nothing is done just like that. He completes construction country house and he is interested in a do-it-yourself blind area, step-by-step instructions on how to do it right. Question: why is this necessary, he asks me all the time.

A do-it-yourself blind area around the building protects the foundation

Vadik and I finished finishing the basement of his house. Before the onset rainy autumn you need to do the rest of the outdoor work with your own hands. The first question he asked was: what is a blind area and what are its functions?

Marking the width of the future trench around the house, I explained the step-by-step instructions and the purpose of the blind area:

the blind area protects the foundation from moisture and destruction;
she serves additional insulation buildings along the perimeter;
along it is diverted from the basement rainwater and melting snow flows down;
because it is necessary, it is used by architects as an element of outdoor design.

Restoration of the old building begins with the finishing of the foundation and blind area. Without this, it is impossible to get rid of dampness, not only in the basement, but also not on the first floor. Insulation of the top layer of soil around the perimeter reduces freezing of the soil near the foundation. A high-quality walkway around the house saves energy for heating, keeping the building warm. The work is not difficult and you can do it yourself.

Step-by-step instructions for creating a blind area with your own hands, as an element of outdoor design

Designers use the blind area as an element of composition. She emphasizes the line of the house, separating it from the lawns and the yard. Constructed from the same material with a plinth finish, the walkway visually makes the building taller. The façade is complete. The building appears to be massive. There is a step-by-step instruction on how to do everything yourself, without paying for the work of specialists.
To create a single ensemble of the house and the surrounding landscape, use the same coverage of the paths around the yard and blind areas. Material and color are selected according to architectural style building. Tiles can be massive from natural, artificial stone. For wooden buildings choose a coating close to sand, natural tones. The avant-garde is emphasized bright colors and non-standard forms. Techno fit strict glossy finishes and sharp corners turns.

Dimensions and slope of the path around the house, do it yourself

Vadik and I walked around the house, marking the line of the roof overhang on the ground. The roof has complex configuration and different size tilt and overhang. Choose the largest size, add 20 centimeters. We marked out the width of the future blind area, which we will do with our own hands. From the walls of the building in the corners were postponed same size perpendicular to the plane of the base. With the help of a cord, the lines were marked, continuing them in the corners to the knot - the intersection.
The width of the blind area must be at least 60 centimeters. It checks the size cornice overhangs. Water from the roof should not fall to the ground, but flow down the path. From the border of the drain should retreat outward 20 - 25 centimeters. The resulting value is measured from the foundation. We defined largest size and marked it around the perimeter. different width blind area is possible. But she looks worse. After all, the design of our home is also important to us.
Water should not fall on the junction of the path and the foundation. Therefore, a slope is made from the base. The edge must be above the ground.

The depth of the ditch under the blind area is considered according to the height of the layers that will be poured into it:

10 cm - clay for compaction and leveling of the base;
15 cm packed sand;
20 cm crushed stone;
10 cm sand under the tiles.

Now my assistant received step-by-step instructions and began to dig a trench with his own hands along the foundation around the house to a depth of 55 centimeters. So that the edges would not crumble, he immediately installed the formwork - knocked down boards. The edge of the shield should protrude several centimeters above the ground surface if the blind area is being filled.

Preparatory work, perimeter insulation: step by step instructions

On soils that are normal in moisture, clay can not be poured and the gravel layer can be made smaller. In our case, the house is in a lowland, next to a river and we need enhanced waterproofing. The junction of the blind area to the base of the house should be tight. To do this, the surface of the foundation is completely cleaned.
Clay was poured onto the bottom with their own hands and, with the help of a square, they immediately tamped it with an inclination from the building. The difference in height was 2 - 3 centimeters in width. Waterproofing was laid on top, following the step-by-step instructions. You can use regular film. Vadik decided to play it safe, to make it last forever. A strip of roofing material was cut off 20 centimeters more and bent along the line of junction with the foundation.

Now at our building reliable protection from destruction by water. All moisture that gets from the soil will drain down the slope of the waterproofing.
Sand was poured in an even layer and compacted, maintaining the angle of inclination. The clamping bar attached to the base of the house a knot of roofing material on clay and geotextile laid on top of the sand. The porous fabric will allow moisture to pass through and hold the gravel, preventing it from pushing through the sand. In the same way, the second layer of matter was laid on rubble. If the blind area is poured with concrete, then the thickness of the crushed stone layer is greater, to the very top of the trench. For good shrinkage, they poured everything with water and waited a few days.

Do-it-yourself filling of the blind area screed, step by step instructions

In areas with deep freezing of the soil, you can put a heater on the rubble with your own hands. It will be mineral wool or polystyrene, the owner decides. Hygroscopic material needs protection from moisture. It is covered with a film and placed on top metal grid. Along the junction line, the waterproofing is attached to the foundation surface. The angle of inclination must be maintained on all cushion materials. This is the protection of the foundation from destruction.

Filling the blind area is done by beacons. Cords are pulled along the foundation and along the edge of the track at surface level. Through each meter, a board impregnated with bitumen is installed, exposed with the upper end at the level of the marks. A solution is poured over it, the slope is determined. These strips remain in the concrete and serve as compensators for the linear expansion of the screed due to temperature differences. In places where the water supply and sewerage pipe assembly passes, it is necessary to make bends under the path in advance.
It is difficult to do a large amount of work on concreting the blind area on your own. I use slat separation and fill a meter between them. Then I level it upon completion of all work and rub it with dry cement - iron. I close the junction of the basement to the blind area with ebbs in the color of the finish. This prevents collapse and improves the design of the foundation.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for laying tiles

My friend is not limited in funds and does it with his own hands construction works to protect the building to improve their level. Therefore, the appearance of the yard is important for him. He designed the facade decoration, turning the building into a castle. The protruding part of the foundation and the plinth are laid out natural stone. For the blind area I bought plates from the same material.
We poured sand on the second layer of geotextile and compacted it. Then I started tiling. Vadik poured water over the gaps. Working with paving slabs requires skill. My auxiliary worker was afraid to spoil everything and just helped me. When everything was laid, we fixed the ebbs, protecting the junction.

Blind area - a coating around the base, which protects the foundation of the building from moisture and temperature effects. The junction of the blind area to the basement must be airtight so that moisture does not enter the basement of the building and the soil.

The main purpose of the structure is protection from moisture. If the sealing of the seams between the blind area and the plinth is broken, then rain and melted snow will penetrate into the cracks. Dampness will negatively affect the walls and foundation. The seam can also collapse.

Water entering the cracks saturates the soil and foundation material with moisture. When moisture freezes, the foundation will shift, which can lead to the formation of cracks throughout the structure and the destruction of the foundation.

Standard blind area execution scheme

Thanks to new technologies, the blind area is made as a continuation of the foundation or sidewalk adjacent to the wall of the building.

To ensure the drainage of water, the structure is made at a slope of 3 ° to 7 °.

When equipping the blind area, the following materials are used:

sand;
gravel (replaced by crushed stone, brick battle);
asphalt, concrete (for arranging the fabric of the structure).

The construction of the protective device consists of the following steps:

Arrangement of a sand cushion.
Arrangement of a pillow made of crushed stone or its substitute.
Arrangement of the finishing layer with expansion joints.

It is better to approach the stages of construction thoroughly from the very beginning than to repair cracks later.

First you need to remove the initial layer of soil. According to building codes, you need to remove 15 cm of earth on simple ground and 30 cm - on heaving. Experienced Builders it is recommended to remove the earth to a layer of sand. There should be no roots of plants and trees left in the trench, because. they can grow and damage the structure.

Then the trench is filled with a layer of sand and compacted. Clay can be used instead of sand, as it does not allow water to pass through. In the composition of the clay, the presence of sand particles should not exceed 10%. The clay layer must be carefully compacted.

At the next stage, the trench is covered with rubble or gravel. This layer serves to drain capillary water, which, when frozen, can break the blind area. Geotextiles can be laid between the sand and gravel layer to protect against mudding.

On the last step the blind area is protected by a curb. On the area between the base of the building and the curb is equipped protective device. It can be made from asphalt, concrete or other materials. Also at this stage, it is required to make expansion joints that prevent a change in the initial shape of the canvas.

The most commonly used boards impregnated with resin. They are laid with an edge at a distance of 1.5 to 2 m.

The larger the blind area, the better for the foundation of the building. The structure is required to make more ledges of the roof by 20 cm. individual cases the width of the structure can exceed 1 m.

How to close the gap between the blind area and the base?

When the temperature changes, soil heaving occurs, because of this, cracks appear on the structure. A poorly compacted base leads to subsidence of the soil under the blind area, as a result of which the structure moves away from the basement.

Cracks can be repaired with the following materials:

construction foam;
bituminous mastic;
Styrofoam;
mineral wool.

The selected material should be placed in the resulting cracks, apply a thin layer cement mortar and hide the seams with finishing materials. Minor cracks need to be sealed with cement.

If a small crack appears at the junction of the basement with the blind area, then it can be sealed with sealant. To do this, you need to perform the following actions:

Treat the crack with a primer.
Fill the gap with sealant.
Treat the place of work with decorative trim.

Additionally, it is possible to perform reinforcement of the structure for connection with the foundation. For this you need:

Drill holes in the blind area, delving into the foundation by 10 cm.
Insert metal rods into the holes.
Fill holes with mortar.

If the junction of the blind area to the basement in some places is covered with large cracks, then such zones must be removed along the expansion joints and the previous layer restored. Then restore the surface of the device. If the structure is made of asphalt, then the edges must be treated with melted bitumen to tightly connect the old material with the new one, in replacement areas.

If cracks have formed on the entire surface of the canvas, then it is necessary to make the blind area again.

To ensure the tightness of the connection of the plinth with the blind area, a seam is made of 2 layers of roofing material. The gap must be at least 2 mm. Waterproofing is also used, which is glued onto bitumen overlapping on the base.

Specific information on blind areas existed in the Manual for SNiP2.02.01. When editing the SNiP, which turned into a joint venture, there was confusion with the design manuals for these standards. Therefore, information on the size and configuration of the blind area is often taken from technological maps.

The main purpose of the horizontal waterproof strip around the cottage with a 3 degree outward slope is to protect the basement and underground load-bearing structures foundation from surface water. When making it yourself, the blind area must be of a certain width, have insulation on heaving soil and a built-in storm drain with an unorganized roof drain.

Foundations operating underground or in direct contact with the ground are exposed to aggressive environments. Even with high-quality waterproofing moisture is harmful to concrete, so storm, flood and wastewater should be removed with your own hands from the supporting structures.

The classic blind area has a design:

compacted soil or underlying layer of non-metallic material adjacent to the base;
concrete screed, a strip of waterproof material (asphalt) or paving with paving slabs / paving stones with a transverse slope of 3 degrees outward, a little more than an overhang roofing material over the facades.

In addition to the main purpose, the blind area can solve several more problems:

increase in the perimeter of non-freezing soils adjacent to the foundation;
use as garden path to save the area of the site;
collecting storm water and transporting it to an underground reservoir.

To make a blind area with your own hands correctly, you need to have at least general idea on the design and manufacturing technology of the foundation and take into account the recommendations below.

The main mistakes of individual developers

When erecting a buried foundation of a house, a foundation pit is torn off on the site, the sinuses of which are later filled up inert materials. To make your own shallow or shallow foundation on clay soil without violations of the joint venture, it is necessary to carry out a set of measures to reduce the heaving forces. Therefore, the heaving soils of the base are replaced by an underlying layer of crushed stone or sand.

In any of these options, a man-made zone is created in which perched water inevitably collects, since the permeability of non-metallic materials in the underlying layer and backfilled sinuses is much higher than that of natural soil. Therefore, any moisture near the basement of the dwelling will accumulate underground, destroy concrete structures. The blind area tape should be wider than the sinuses of the pit and the roof overhang, and a storm drain (trays, gutters, point storm water inlets) should be integrated into its outer edge.

When making a blind area with their own hands, an individual developer often makes mistakes:

clay castle - this material really does not let water through from the outside, but absorbs it and increases sharply in volume when it freezes, resulting in the destruction of a concrete screed or asphalt;
insufficient width - in the absence of a roof drain, water flows freely erode the soil near the edge of the blind area, penetrate into the ground, cause damage to the foundation of the house, in the concrete structures of which multiple cracks open;
rigid connection of the blind area with the foundation - residual heaving forces cannot push a heavy floating slab, MZLF tape or grillage pillars to the surface, but easily raise the blind area, which tends to break the foundation or tilt it;
lack of insulation - especially important for dwellings of temporary and seasonal operation, houses with overlapping along the logs, since adjacent to concrete structures soils freeze and swell.

Be sure to make expansion joints.

The existing opinion that the blind area should be created at the stage of landscaping or landscape design after the completion of the construction of the building box and roof, is erroneous. Even during the construction season, heavy rainfall is possible. With a “long-term” foundation, the foundation remains unloaded in the winter. These factors negatively affect the resource of the underground structure, so the blind area should be filled immediately after the completion of the zero cycle, waterproofing and insulation of the outer edges of the tape, slab or grillage pillars.

A properly made blind area should adjoin the foundation through the damping layer. A special elastic band must be installed between these structures.

Important! If the basement of the cottage is faced after concreting blind areas, siding, panels or other finishing material should not rest on the screed, but should be fixed to the crate from a bar or profile. A damper layer is also required between the blind area and the cladding.

Manufacturing technology

It is most difficult for an individual developer to make a warm blind area on their own, so this technology will be considered:

slotted formwork is an incorrect technology, as it does not allow waterproofing and insulating the outer surfaces of concrete;
when excavating soil from trenches (MZLF), a pit (floating plate) or pits (columnar grillage), the working width is always over size foundation, since it is necessary to lay sewer drains from the outside, provide workers with access to the installation of formwork and waterproofing from the inside (total + 1.2 m outside, + 0.8 m inside);
is automatically removed fertile layer, rich in organic matter, on which it is forbidden to pour concrete screeds due to possible shrinkage of the soil.

Scheme of a modern blind area.

Therefore, the developer needs to perform several operations to create a blind area:

backfill with sand (on dry ground) or crushed stone (at high groundwater level) with a thickness of 0.4 m;
lay a layer of 10 mm extruded polystyrene foam high density(EPS or XPX brand) with a slope of 3 degrees outward ();
mount the formwork along the perimeter of the blind area (width 0.7 - 1.5 m, depending on the roof overhang);
glue around the perimeter of the plinth damper tape to create a gap between the screed and the base;
lay the mixture inside the formwork and create a 3 degree slope;
provide care for concrete (wet compress from sawdust or covering plastic film in the first three days);
seal the resulting gap with sealant to prevent leaks.

Advice! If the construction technology is not violated, a pillow made of non-metallic material under polystyrene foam is not needed. The base layer has already been laid under the drainage and footing of the foundation.

A blind area may be required in already operated cottages, for example, when buying real estate. In this case, you should pay attention to the design of the existing foundation and correct the shortcomings in the construction of the blind area of the house in order to make it right:

there is no drainage - it is necessary to dig trenches around the perimeter of the cottage, create a general slope of 4 - 7 degrees, lay perforated corrugated pipe, loop the system, mount manholes in the corners of the house;
there is no heat-insulating layer - the blind area must be insulated to prevent freezing of adjacent soils.

The main nuances when concreting the screed around the dwelling are:

the gap between the base and the blind area is sealed with sealant;
it is not necessary to reinforce the screed if the soil is not heaving or measures have been taken to reduce heaving forces (drainage, underlayment and insulation);
in the places of installation of storm water inlets, a local slope is made in their direction;
stormwater trays of two adjacent facades should have a single slope to a common storm water inlet.

Advice! If the building has an extension, there must be an expansion joint between the main and additional foundations. Therefore, the blind area is strictly forbidden to be rigidly connected to the base.

FAQ

The most demanded advice from professionals is how to make a blind area at home correctly for different designs foundation or restore, what width and thickness to fill the screed.

Do I need to connect the blind area with the foundation

Before pouring the screed around the perimeter of the outer walls with a slope to remove moisture, you need to understand what should not be done in any case. For example, an individual developer often reinforces the blind area, for which he installs rods in holes in the basement. Such hard connection fraught with consequences:

in winter, heaving forces will arise;
they will not be able to pull the heavy foundation out of the ground, but the reinforcing bars are easily bent and lift the screed;
during spring thawing, a gap is formed under the blind area, into which water freely penetrates.

In foundations, the lower reinforcement belt is necessary to compensate for tensile loads from the weight of the dwelling. The upper belt compensates for similar loads, but from the heaving forces directed in the opposite direction. There are no such efforts in the blind areas, therefore it is enough to make a screed with a thickness of 5 cm or more without reinforcement, without wasting the budget in vain.

The blind area has moved away from the foundation, what to do

There are several reasons for opening a gap in the base/screed junction:

heaving forces - on clay and loam, the damping layer (sand and gravel) is not enough, frost enters under the insulation from the outside, the blind area periodically rises, falls to a new place in the spring;
moisture ingress - if the gap between the basement and the blind area is not sealed with sealant, during the off-season, water collects in it during the day, which freezes and expands at night, moving the screed away from the building, the next day the amount of water increases, and so on daily;

There are several repair options:

you can make a metal tide (usual valley), fixed to the base, preventing the penetration of moisture into the damper seam;
a properly cleaned and degreased gap is smeared with a sealant, which is used to process the seams of a panel house.

You can reliably close the gap between the foundation of the house and the blind area by restoring this junction:

the screed near the basement is partially destroyed and the cladding of the facade of the house is dismantled (only near the ground);
half glued on the plinth polyethylene film or surfacing roll material on a bitumen basis (TechnoNIKOL, Bikrost);
the second half is wrapped horizontally, the destroyed part of the screed is poured on it.

Important! If you do this operation from the outside, the waterproofing will be torn off when cleaning the blind area of the house from snow.

I have a house on stilts, how to make a blind area

During the operation of pile and columnar hanging grillages, the building does not have a full-fledged basement. To protect the underground from getting wet, the penetration of dirt and animals, and to reduce heat loss in the floors of the lower floor, a pick-up is needed, also called a false base. The adjunction of the blind area to this structural and architectural element the building differs from the previously considered options for foundations (slab and tape):

when using the foundation of a house from a hanging grillage on piles or poles, an underground is formed in which there are no heat sources;
therefore, the blind area of \u200b\u200bthe foundation is not insulated - apart from cost overruns, this does not give anything.

It is possible to correctly arrange the interface node, regardless of the width of the screed, using the following technology:

a crate for panels is attached to piles / poles or basement siding, runs for sheet materials(DSP, flat slate);
racks of the crate do not reach the ground by 10 - 15 cm, so that heaving forces do not act on them;
a piece of rolled waterproofing is attached to the crate or girders with one side vertically, bent at a right angle outward horizontally, wound under the blind area;
on top of the waterproofing, you need to pour a screed with a transverse slope or pavement, paving slabs are laid out.

Thus, the foundation receives the design of a false base and the absolute tightness of the lower junction. The snow melted in the spring on the blind area cannot penetrate inside the underground through waterproofing material between wall cladding and blind area.

Following the above recommendations, an individual developer can choose a blind area technology that matches the foundation of the dwelling, depending on its design. Or repair the screed, seal the gap between it and the basement of the building.

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The basement (wall of the building) and the blind area are primarily exposed to precipitation. And it is between the blind area and the wall (basement) of the building that a crack appears, which is formed as a result of sedimentary deformations of the soil around the building and shrinkage of the building itself.

Sealing the adjoining blind area to the basement or wall of the house practically does not pay attention at the construction stage. They remember this only when the blind area flies a few centimeters and the flow of water intensifies into the gap that increases during operation.

A few tips for constructive solution blind area of buildings:

blind areas made of any materials (pavers, brick, cobblestone, slabs, asphalt concrete) must be placed on a draining base;
the mark of the lower edge of the blind area should be higher than the ground surface around the building, and if this condition cannot be met, it is necessary to install channels around the perimeter of the blind area that drain precipitation and melt water into low areas or special wells;
the adjoining of the blind area to the plinth should be sealed in such a way that, with inevitable temperature and sedimentary deformations, the tightness of the pairing of the blind area with the plinth is maintained.

To seal the seam where the blind area adjoins the basement or wall of the building, we recommend using polyurethane sealants trademark TENACHEM.

So, in a private house, the blind area moved away from the wall and water penetrated into the basement into the gap formed. The blind area was made of concrete, on top of which sandstone was laid. After dismantling the sandstone in the junction zone, the gap was sealed with Oksiplast sealant.

And further. If the blind area is made of concrete, then do not forget to waterproof it. Perfect option -

Plinth - the lower protective part of the wall, the transitional part of the foundation to the outer walls of the house. The basement is the most vulnerable part of the house. The blind area is a concrete or asphalt impenetrable coating around the house. First of all, it is the basement and blind area of the building that are exposed to the temperature effect. Rain and melt water, snow - all this negatively affects the foundation and walls of the house. It is the blind area of the building that protects the foundation structure and the soil around the house from moisture. As a result of shrinkage of the soil, and, accordingly, of the building itself, cracks appear between the wall and the blind area.

If the sealing of the basement and the blind area is broken, then moisture will freely enter the basement and technical premises of the building, thereby destroying it. In order to prevent moisture from entering, you need to study the blind area around the house well.

To ensure the drainage of water, the basement of the house and the blind area must fit snugly against each other.

What is a basement and a blind area, a photo, how they should adjoin each other, you can see in the instructions or find this information on the Internet.

Why tightness is important

The device of the blind area around the house, although it is decorative in nature, its main task is to protect the building from storm and leash waters. For this, it is always performed with a certain slope in the direction opposite to the foundation. Be sure to ensure a tight connection of the blind area with the building around the entire perimeter. If the tightness is broken, then moisture will inevitably get inside.

And when winter comes, the basement of the house and the blind area, the tightness of which is broken, will no longer save the foundation from deformation.

And the next stage is the appearance of cracks in the walls of the house.

How to ensure tightness

The blind area around the house, how the blind area is made and how to ensure tightness - these are the main questions that arise on preparatory stage to the manufacture of blind areas.

In order to make it easier to deal with these issues, there are some already proven methods:

The blind area, regardless of what material it is made of, must be placed on a draining base.
The lower edge of the blind area itself should be higher than the ground surface around the building.
The device of the blind area around the house provides for its adjoining to the basement closely. The blind area of a building with a plinth must maintain its tightness under any temperature deformations.
When sealing the abutment seam, experts advise using polyurethane sealants.

This is a small list of those mandatory rules for the manufacture of blind areas for any building.

With such methods, the blind area can be placed around a small building, technical building, garage, the blind area of a private house is also being done.

Types and characteristics of the base. Basement and deck insulation

To clearly see how the blind area should be adjacent to the basement of the building, you can simply type in the words “photo blind area” in the search engine and see how it should look.

What are the types of plinths? The base comes in two forms:

speaker;
sinking;
can be located in the same cavity with the outer wall.

Using the first form of the plinth, you can correct the position of the wall if a mistake has been made in position. The protruding base is used in houses with thin walls.

The falling base is more reliable. It well covers the waterproofing layer from atmospheric and mechanical influences, provides a full drain of water from the walls.

The falling one will come out cheaper than the acting one and looks more aesthetically pleasing.

The third form of the base is in the same cavity with the walls, this is an impractical way. This type of plinth needs additional finishing and exposed to atmospheric precipitation.

When constructing any type of plinth, reliable, practical and durable materials, as this part of the house is very susceptible to external factors. Appearance the plinth requires periodic repairs, since during operation the finish loses its original appearance.

Another important detail is the insulation of the blind area and basement. As a result of warming the basement and blind areas, heat costs are significantly reduced. It is better to insulate in advance, without waiting for the cold to come.

You can insulate the blind area with foam or polystyrene foam. This is one of the cheapest and simple ways. Between the layers of the blind area, it is necessary to lay out one of these materials and, for greater strength, lubricate them with an adhesive.

Basement insulation is a more time-consuming and expensive process. Basement insulation can also be carried out using expanded polystyrene sheets, which is a very good heat-insulating material.