is a plant belonging to the Hydrangea family. This bush with beautiful white flowers and a sweet aroma can be confused with jasmine This article is about why you should plant garden jasmine and how to do it correctly.
We will also consider proper care followed by the types of propagation of the plant and the time of year when it is worth planting mock orange. Let's look at the beneficial properties of garden jasmine and learn how to fight pests and diseases of mock orange.
Did you know? The plant began to be called mock orange because chibouks and mouthpieces for smoking pipes were made from its wood.
Planting mock orange
Garden jasmine leaves have a light green color. When autumn arrives, the color changes to bright lemon.
The inflorescences smell like strawberries.
The mock orange looks something like this: 
Now that we know what it looks like, we should begin planting the mock orange itself.
Choosing a landing site
Mock orange loves the sun very much, but at the same time feels great in the shade. If you plant garden jasmine in a sunny area of the garden, it will bloom profusely and beautifully, but if in the shade, the flowers gradually become smaller and the branches stretch out.
The most comfortable soil for garden jasmine is considered to be gerbil. But even on very moist soil, mock orange feels great. The main thing is to use drainage (crushed stone or pebbles).
Garden jasmine does not tolerate stagnant water near the roots. It is also resistant to temporary drought. The soil should contain leaf soil, sand and humus.
Basic landing rules
Now that we know which place is best for planting mock orange in your garden, let's move on to the rules for planting this plant.
Proper care for mock orange
Caring for garden mock orange won't be difficult. In this section we will look at proper watering and fertilizing the soil, as well as proper pruning and thinning of bushes.
Watering and fertilizing the soil
The bush needs to be watered very often. If the mock orange does not have enough moisture, the leaves begin to wither and lose their elasticity. Only if you water it again does the plant regain its healthy appearance.
Also, when growing mock orange, it is necessary to fertilize the plant at least three times.
First feeding of mock orange held in early spring. To do this, take the Agricola mineral fertilizer and dilute 2 tbsp. for 10 liters of water. One bush is watered with this mixture.
Second feeding passes before flowering. This time we use organic fertilizers, for example, “Effecton”. It is diluted in the same way as Agricola.
You can also add Rossa liquid fertilizer. One bush will now require 2 buckets of diluted fertilizer.
Third is held in the autumn. This strengthens the plant winter time. Superphosphate and potassium sulfate are used. Add 1 tbsp to 10 liters of water. each fertilizer.
Now you should water half a bucket of each bush. If suddenly the bush freezes over in winter, don’t worry, it will quickly recover.
The soil, preferably in the root circle, should be loosened a couple of times during the summer. Also, do not forget about mulching in winter, with a layer of up to 4 cm.
Pruning and thinning of bushes
Let's find out when and how to prune garden jasmine.
This should be done annually. Mock orange needs to remove wilted flowers and pruning shoots older than 12 years. You can also shape the crowns at your discretion.
In early spring, strong branches should be cut by half, which will facilitate the development of shoots of normal growth on them. All procedures help the mock orange to grow quickly.
In winter, cold weather can cause young shoots to freeze, but if next year trim them, the young shoots will restore the appearance of the mock orange. In adult plants, the trunks thicken and become bare. Such bushes should be pruned.
At the end of winter or early spring, the trunks are cut to 40 cm. The rest are cut to the ground.
Important! After pruning, treat the cuts with garden varnish.
Shoots that grow in autumn next spring should be removed, leaving 3 shoots on each stump.
The next year, new bushes are formed from these shoots. In a couple of years, the mock orange will bloom in full force.
Mock orange transplant
In this section we will figure out how to replant mock orange without harming the plant itself.
Since garden jasmine easily tolerates replanting and quickly recovers, you should sacrifice some of the foliage and, unfortunately, lose a year of flowering of the plant. Mock orange needs to be replanted before mid-September.
It's worth waiting for a rainy or cloudy day. Before digging up the bush, it should be watered well and left for a day. Then half of the old shoots are removed at the root, and the rest are shortened.
After this, we dig up the mock orange and move it to a new area, watering it beforehand and compacting the soil. In order for garden jasmine to quickly adapt to a new place, after replanting we advise you to trample the soil under the bush a little and water it generously.
Reproduction of mock orange
Propagating mock orange is not difficult. It can be propagated using seeds, cuttings and layering, which will be discussed in this section.
Seeds
Species mock oranges are propagated in this way, and not plants bred by crossing. Sowing is carried out in autumn, winter or spring.
If you decide to sow in winter, you should do this at a temperature of at least 10°C, in weather without wind. Sow directly into a layer of snow to a depth of 30 cm and cover the seeds with straw. Large branches can be pressed down from above. In spring, the cover is removed and the emerging shoots are shaded.
If planting is carried out in the spring, the seeds are planted in greenhouses or greenhouses. Before sowing, future plants are placed in a gauze bag and immersed in water at room temperature for an hour and a half.
Then the seeds in the bag are transferred to wet sawdust or peat. On the 3rd day, when the seeds swell, they are mixed with dry sand and sown, and then sprinkled with humus.
After the sprouts sprout, they must be shaded.
Cuttings
In order to propagate mock orange by cuttings, you need to tear off a small branch from the bush you like. Semi-lignified cuttings should be taken during or after flowering.
Side branches with flowers go to the cuttings. Should sudden movement tear off a branch from the main shoot. There should be a piece of wood with bark left on it. 
To root cuttings, you need to pour a layer of drainage (for example, expanded clay) onto the bottom of the dish and fill it with a mixture of peat and sand in equal proportions. We recommend moistening them slightly before mixing. Sprinkle a 3 cm layer of sand on top and water it with a fungicide solution.
Preparing cuttings is also very simple. To do this, cut off the lower leaves and flowers on the cuttings and soak them in the Epin solution for 12 hours.
Dip the cut of the cutting into powder to stimulate root formation. We plant the cuttings in a container at an angle of 40 degrees.
Important! The lower petioles of the leaves should not be immersed in the sand.
After planting, cover the cuttings with a transparent bag or jar and transfer them to the shade in the garden. We also recommend spraying the cuttings every day to ensure successful rooting.
When the cuttings have taken root, we plant them together with a lump of earth in a permanent place, shading it for the first time.
By layering
Mock orange easily forms layering, which takes root by 70%. First, the bushes are trimmed to a stump (height approximately 5-7 cm from the ground). This stimulates the growth of young shoots.
In the spring, they dig up the soil around the mock orange, level it with a rake and feed it with fertilizers. After this, they tie the shoots at the lower bud to the ground and secure them with wooden pins. The constriction should be done using soft wire.
After fastening, the shoots are covered with soil. By the end of the growing season, shoots, layering, independently develop into bushes with good roots.
Next spring they are dug up and cut off from the bush with pruning shears. Layings should be grown within two years.
Mock orange in garden design
In landscape design, mock orange is used in large unformed hedges as the main shrub.
The plant goes well with lilac and hydrangea. You can also plant several types of mock orange varieties, creating unusual compositions and play of colors. They may differ in crown shape, height and texture of foliage.
An example of landscaping a garden using mock orange: 
Useful properties of mock orange
Mock orange is not only beautiful decoration your garden, but also has beneficial properties, which will be discussed in this section.
Garden jasmine is used for cosmetic and medicinal purposes. The smell of the plant has a good effect on nervous system and relieves anxiety and nervousness.
For medicinal purposes, mock orange flowers, leaves, young shoots and roots are used.
Did you know? Baskets are woven from thin mock orange twigs.
The flowers of the plant begin to be collected in July and until October. This should be done in clear weather, around 5 am or at night. After collecting the flowers, they are spread in a thin layer in the shade and dried. Thus, part of the essential oils and aroma.
Garden jasmine is dried in ovens at a temperature of 35°C. When the flowers are completely dry, they are placed in a glass jar and covered with a lid.
Garden jasmine oil has disinfecting and healing properties. Also, decoctions and infusions will help you relieve pain.
An oil tincture can be made from jasmine flowers. To do this, place the flowers in a glass jar and fill with any vegetable oil and close the lid. The jar is wrapped in dark paper and placed in the sun. You should leave it there for 40 days, shaking it twice daily.
Did you know? Jasmine is used as an additive in green tea.
Jasmine oil does not require straining and is used externally for the following diseases: 
- Cold;
- Migraine;
- Convulsions;
- Paralysis;
- Nervous tremors;
- Inflammation of the sciatic nerve;
- Chapping of the skin.
Essential oil is used in aromatherapy. And in cosmetic applications it restores the youth of the skin and tones it.
Pests and diseases of mock orange, combating them
Deformation, drying, curling and falling of leaves occurs due to lack of air humidity, poor watering or direct exposure to direct rays of the sun. If you have such problems, you should transplant the plant to a shaded place and constantly spray and water it.
If the mock orange buds have withered and do not want to bloom, it means that the plant does not have enough light. If the flowers begin to darken, this indicates dry and warm air.
Gray rot on leaves and shoots and septoria can also damage mock orange.
This disease develops during severe temperature changes and high precipitation. Gray rot completely affects the entire plant. 
The causative agent is a fungus of the genus Botrytis. Brown blurry spots appear on the mushrooms irregular shape. They quickly dry out, crack and fall out.
The fight against this disease is simple: you need to spray the bush with Bordeaux mixture and remove fallen leaves and diseased shoots.
The causative agent of this disease is the Septoria mushroom. Signs of the disease are the appearance of small round dark brown spots on the upper leaf plate. These spots are 2-6 mm in diameter.
The fungus grows into all leaf tissue and causes leaf drop. In this case, the entire plant is completely damaged, it blooms poorly and is susceptible to other diseases caused by the fungus.
You can fight them in the same way as gray mold.
Among the pests, mock orange can suffer from aphids, mealybugs, spider mites and whiteflies.
Adults and larvae of this pest feed on plant juices. As a result, the leaves are damaged - they curl and become deformed. These leaves then dry out and remain underdeveloped. In addition, bean aphids spread viral diseases.
To get rid of them, you should spray the bush with Karbofos or Rogor.
These pests are easily recognized by their white cotton-like coating and are easily visible on the foliage. Scale insects retard plant growth by sucking the juices of leaves, buds and young shoots.
If affected by this pest, the bush should be sprayed with one of the preparations: Aktara, Calypso, Confidor or Confidant, with an interval of 7-14 days.
This pest gets to your mock orange in different ways. You should not wait for the tick to multiply and you should get rid of it as soon as possible.
This is done by spraying with 0.3% Keltan emulsion. This should be done 2-3 times with an interval of 6-8 days.
If you are growing young mock orange in an area with high temperature and humidity (i.e. in greenhouses or conservatories), you should prepare for such a scourge as whiteflies.
The surface of the leaf turns white and then black. It is these mushrooms that can harm the plant, because they stop the growth of shoots.
In order to get rid of whiteflies, you can use a soap solution, or drugs - Aktara, Confidor, etc.
In this article, we figured out what mock orange is and what role it plays in landscape design. We also defined best way propagation of this plant and rules for caring for it. Thanks to this article, you learned about medicinal properties garden jasmine and pest control of this plant.
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Increasingly, in various parks and gardens you can see shrubs up to two meters in height, which are dotted with unusually white beautiful flowers, from which the aroma spreads throughout the area, this is garden jasmine.
This plant also has a second name - mock orange, this flower is very unpretentious and easy to care for, so even a novice gardener can grow it. In today's article we will figure out how to properly care for garden jasmine and in what conditions it is more comfortable for him to grow.
Suitable place to plant jasmine
Garden jasmine will grow in both sun and partial shade, but the abundance of flowering in the same bush will be different. Thus, bushes that are planted in the sun bloom better and look more spectacular, while a plant in the shade has more green mass.
Advice: garden jasmine is a frost-resistant plant, but even with all this, when choosing a suitable place for planting, it is better not to give preference to windy areas where there are constant drafts.
Also pay attention to the location of the selected area, is there a possibility that melt water in winter could flood the flower? Excess water can lead to swamping of chernozem and, as a result, rotting of the rhizome.
Optimal watering for garden jasmine
Despite all its unpretentiousness, garden jasmine, as mentioned above, does not tolerate stagnant water. And here's to groundwater, which are located close to the surface of the earth, mock orange bushes are treated normally.
You need to water the garden jasmine bush abundantly, but do not over-water the plant. Two waterings a week will be quite enough, and water that has been heated and previously settled should be used. A plant that is watered regularly is very cold water, are more susceptible to various diseases.
Necessary fertilizers for garden jasmine
Mock orange bushes especially urgently need additional feeding during the period active growth and flowering. Therefore, the first fertilizing should be done in early spring, as soon as the snow melts; it is best to use nitrogen-containing fertilizers during this period, they will help the plant actively grow. But at the time of budding and flowering, it is better to use potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.
Pruning a jasmine bush
The bush should be trimmed every 2-3 years, this will help it not to grow too much and at the same time “keep its shape.” Shearing occurs as soon as the plant has flowered or, conversely, after winter, until the bush has bloomed. In any case, pruning excess shoots should be done carefully, because this procedure is not so much aesthetic as it is therapeutic, because after it the plant begins to grow and develop faster. 
Propagation of garden jasmine bush
There are several methods of propagating garden jasmine, but the most popular are propagation cuttings And dividing the bush. Both the first and second methods can be performed both in spring and autumn, but most gardeners still prefer the period from mid-September to mid-October.
When dividing a bush, you need to dig out the bush very carefully so as not to leave part of the rhizome in the ground, it is better to get the root directly in the ground, and then wash this lump with water, and then remove all the rotten roots. To divide, you need to use a sharp knife; after completing the procedure, parts of the rhizome are planted in separate holes and watered; it is better to treat the cut area with ash.
If in our latitudes you come across a bush with a fragrant foam of white flowers, do not rush to call it jasmine - it does not grow here. The mock orange is often confused with the southern beauty - unpretentious shrub from the hydrangea family. Many of its species have a heady aroma, which is why mock orange, along with roses and lilacs, has been the main decoration of Russian gardens since ancient times.
The genus and its representatives
Olga Nikitina
Rod Chubushnik ( Philadelphus) belongs to the hydrangea family and has about 50 species native to Western Europe, eastern Asia and North America.
These are deciduous shrubs, mainly with an oval crown and straight shoots, branching only in the upper part. The leaves are ovate-lanceolate, opposite, light green, lemon yellow in autumn or remain green before falling. They bloom after complete foliation; at this time, white or creamy-white fragrant, less often odorless, flowers appear at the ends of the shoots, collected in racemes. The fruit is a capsule with small seeds.
The plant has very hard wood, and its hollow shoots were used to make smoking pipes, which explains its name.
Mock oranges grow successfully and bloom profusely in well-lit areas and in partial shade. True, they are considered shade-tolerant shrubs, since under natural conditions they are found in the undergrowth of broad-leaved and coniferous-deciduous forests.
Most species and varieties of mock orange are preferred fertile soils with sufficient moisture. They tolerate temporary drought well; after watering, the turgor of the leaves is quickly restored. The only thing they cannot come to terms with is saline soils.
This breed is propagated by seeds (most often species mock oranges, with flowering occurring after 5–8 years) and vegetatively (by root suckers, layering, cuttings, dividing bushes). To preserve decorative characteristics, especially valuable varieties are propagated by summer (semi-lignified) cuttings, which are cut during or before flowering. Then they are planted on special beds or in cold greenhouses for rooting.
When planting mock oranges, you need to adhere to the following parameters: in group plantings, the distance between plants should be 0.5-1.5 m, and in a single-row hedge - 0.5 m. To avoid rotting of the root collar, it should not be deepened by more than 2-3 cm.
Best suited for growing these shrubs soil mixture, consisting of leaf soil, humus and sand in a ratio of 3: 2: 1, optimal acidity soil pH 6.5–7.5.
As a rule, all mock oranges have a great shoot-forming ability, so the bushes become very dense over the years, which weakens flowering. Experts recommend periodically thinning out old bushes (to do this, cut out the weakest and oldest shoots to the ground), as well as promptly removing faded inflorescences. This rejuvenation of the crown leads to strong growth of new shoots and more abundant flowering.
In addition to pruning, care also includes watering and fertilizing (mineral and organic fertilizers). As organic fertilizers Apply slurry (1: 10) at the rate of one bucket for each bush once a year. Mineral fertilizers (15 g of urea and potassium sulfate, 30 g of superphosphate) are diluted in 10 liters of water and applied to one or two plants in the third year after planting. Mock orange is demanding of moisture, in June–July trunk circle Two or three buckets of water should be poured per 1 m2. Young plants require more frequent and abundant watering during dry periods.
Mock oranges are highly decorative and very resistant shrubs; thanks to their abundant and exquisite flowering, they are very popular in landscaping, be it a city park or a summer cottage. Their species and varietal diversity allows you to create wonderful fragrant compositions that bloom for two months.
Most species and varieties of mock orange prefer fertile soils with sufficient moisture. They tolerate temporary drought well, but cannot tolerate saline soils.
The most common and most winter-hardy species is h. coronal (Ph. coronarius), up to 3 m high, with a rounded-ovoid crown. Its homeland is the south of Western Europe, in culture it is distributed almost everywhere from Arkhangelsk to the southern borders of the former Union and in Western Siberia.
Very similar to the previous look h. pale, or ordinary(Ph. pallidus), naturally growing in the same region as the previous species. A shrub up to 3 m high, with a dense, oval crown, blooms quite early - in the first ten days of June. But the earliest and longest flowering (up to 25 days) in the Moscow region is demonstrated by Part Schrenk (Ph.schrenkii), its flowers bloom at the end of May. Distributed in the forests of China and Korea, as well as in the Amur basin. It has hairy shoots and pubescent pedicels. The flowers have a strong aroma that intensifies in the evening.
Early flowering is characterized by h. small-leaved (Ph.microphyllus). This low shrub (up to 1.5 m) with small, graceful leaves is valued for its delicate pineapple aroma. Originally from North America, very popular in culture, it was used by the French breeder Lemoine to breed low-growing varieties.
Gordon's mock orange (Ph.gordonianus) is one of the tallest species, can reach a height of up to 5 m, also a representative of the North American flora. Much appreciated for annual abundant flowering, although its flowers have a weak aroma.
Chubushnik Leviza(Ph. Lewisii) is attractive with a spherical crown and spectacular flowering. Flowers up to 5 cm in diameter are collected in large racemes. Naturally grows in the forests of North America - from British Columbia to California.
Found in mixed forests of the Far East h. thin-leaved (Ph.tenuifolius). A shrub up to 2.5 m high, white, slightly fragrant, pure white flowers are collected in racemose inflorescences of 3–7 pieces.
Widely used in culture Part Caucasian (Ph.caucasicus), naturally growing in the forests of the Caucasus and reaching a height of up to 3 m. The leaves are bright green, creamy, highly fragrant flowers are collected in short dense racemes located at the ends of the shoots. Fast-growing, frost-resistant, undemanding shrub.
One of the most fragrant and abundant flowering species counts part Lemoine (Ph.x lemoinei), which is a hybrid of common ch. and small-leaved ch. This shrub, up to 3 m high, has large, up to 4 cm, white, highly fragrant flowers, collected in racemose inflorescences. It has many varieties that are widely used in green building.
Gorgeous spreading bushes up to 5 m high form h. greyish (Ph. incanus). It received this name for its densely pubescent buds and the underside of the leaves. Simple pure white fragrant flowers collected in gracefully curved loose racemes.
Very impressive including grandiflora (Ph. grandiflorus) grows naturally in eastern North America. During flowering, it is decorated with large white, up to 5 cm, odorless flowers. Widely used in landscaping in southern and central Russia.
Flowering time depending on the species and variety is from late May to early August.
Common mock orange 
Schrenk's mock orange 
Mock orange Lemoine 
Mock orange Lemoine 
Chubushnik Leviza
Mock orange diseases
Ella Sokolova,
Mock orange is one of the most disease resistant woody plants. Compared to other breeds, a very small number of pathogens of various origins, mainly fungal, were noted on it. Diseases of leaves, trunks and branches during high level lesions lead to a decrease in the decorative value of the bush.
Leaf diseases
Powdery mildew (the causative agent is a fungus Phyllactiniaguttata). In July on bottom side On the leaves, a white cobwebby coating of mycelium (mycelium) appears with sporulation. The spores re-infect young leaves until the end of summer. Over time, the plaque disappears or remains in the form of round spots. By the end of July, fruiting bodies of the fungus are formed on the mycelium, noticeable in the form of scattered small black dots. They persist in winter on fallen, infected leaves. In the spring, spores ripen in them, which produce primary infection of the leaves.
Brown spot (the causative agent is a fungus Phyllostictacoronata). In the second half of summer, separate, rarely merging light brown spots with a white border appear on both sides of the leaves. On the upper side of the spots, sporulation of the fungus forms in the form of small scattered brown dots.
Gray spot (the causative agent is a fungus AscochytaPhiladelphia). In July, large round ash-gray spots form on the upper side of the leaves. Sporulation of the fungus develops on the spots, looking like small brown dots located in concentric circles.
Blackish olive spot (the causative agent is a fungus Phyllostictavulgaris). In early July, round spots appear on both sides of the leaves, initially blackish-olive, later brown with a black border. On the upper side of the spots, sporulation of the fungus forms in the form of small black dotted tubercles.
By the end of July, fruiting bodies of the fungus are formed on the mycelium, noticeable in the form of scattered small black dots. They persist in winter on fallen, infected leaves.
Diseases of trunks and branches
Tubercular (nectria) necrosis (the causative agent is a fungus Tuberculariavulgaris). The cortex and vascular system are affected. In the thickness of the dying and dead bark, mycelium formations are formed - stromas protruding from cracks in the bark in the form of pink, pinkish-red, brick-red, often darkening to dark brown, rounded pads with a diameter of 1-3 mm. Fungal spores develop on the stroma, which infect the shoots during the growing season.
Diplodia necrosis (the causative agent is a fungus Diplodia philadelphia). Local or circular necrosis with reddish-brown bark forms on trunks and branches. In the thickness of the affected bark, sporulation of the pathogen is formed in the form of numerous scattered black tubercles protruding from cracks in the bark.
Hendersonia necrosis (the causative agent is a fungus Hendersonia coronaria). The bark in the affected areas darkens, but is clearly distinguished from the healthy one. In the thickness of the cortex, sporulation of the pathogen is formed in the form of numerous small brown scattered or crowded tubercles protruding from breaks in the periderm.
Microdiploid necrosis (the causative agent is a fungus Microdiplodiamicrosporella). The affected bark becomes red-brown in color. In the thickness of the bark, sporulation of the fungus develops in the form of small black crowded tubercles protruding from cracks in the periderm.
Bacterial necrosis (the causative agent is a bacterium Pseudomonassyringae). In spring, brown, moist necrotic areas in the form of spots form on young shoots. The affected bark and phloem rot. In the spring and autumn, spots of dead bast spread to the outer layers of wood, which, like the bark, turns brown and dies. Individual necrotic spots often merge, ringing the branches and causing their death. Watery, translucent spots of irregular shape appear on the leaves of the affected shoots, which darken over time, dry out and fall out.
To protect mock orange from diseases, a set of measures is carried out:
- systematic surveillance of the emergence and spread of diseases during the growing season, when signs of infectious diseases clearly appear;
- selection for planting of plants that do not have signs of disease on the shoots (change in bark color, sporulation, humidity);
- timely pruning of affected shoots with their immediate removal and destruction;
- destruction of fallen leaves or autumn spraying in order to eliminate sources of infection of powdery mildew and spotting.
Mock orange pests
Tamara Galaseva,Candidate of Agricultural Sciences
Only four types of pests are known on various types of mock orange, the occurrence and harmfulness of which varies greatly. All of them are polyphages that damage other types of woody and even herbaceous plants, and feed on leaves and non-lignified shoots.
Sucking insects and mites
Sucking pests suck out juices from leaves and thin shoots. On mock oranges you can find beet or bean aphids more often than others - Aphis fabae, sometimes incorrectly called jasmine aphid - Aphis Philadelphia. Aphids are broadly ovoid, 1.8–2.5 mm long, brown, black or greenish with a slightly noticeable waxy coating. In spring and early summer, aphids live and feed on mock orange and other shrubs (euonymus and viburnum), on which two or three generations are raised. In the second half of summer, they move to herbaceous plants (beets, poppy, beans, sunflowers, potatoes and many others) where up to 10 generations of aphids develop. In the fall (September), they again fly to the mock orange (the primary host) and lay eggs at the base of the buds. Due to damage, mock orange leaves curl, petioles and shoots become bent.
When aphids multiply massively, the leaves of the bush become covered with honeydew (sticky sugary secretions of aphids), on which sooty fungi develop, which reduces the decorativeness of the plants.
In some years, colonies of common spider mites can suck the juices from leaves and non-lignified shoots of mock oranges. Tetranychus turkestanica. Damaged leaves on the shoot become covered with a thin web and gradually turn yellow. Mite colonies multiply on the underside of leaves, under the web. The insects are very small, 0.5–0.6 mm long, colorless or light green. The defeat of mock orange is observed in the second half of summer, at the end of July - August. An increase in air temperature at this time is favorable for tick reproduction and contributes to the development of a large number of generations (up to 10). Before wintering, the color of the females changes to red. Only females hibernate. under fallen leaves and other plant debris, as well as in bark cracks and other secluded places.
An increase in air temperature at this time is favorable for the reproduction of spider mites.
Leaf-eating insects
Larvae and adults of beetles gnaw holes in leaves various shapes or eat them completely, sometimes leaving only the veins intact.
Mock orange leaves are sometimes eaten from the edges by weevils of the genus Phyllobius. They are small, 5–7 mm long, the surface of the body is almost completely covered with light green scales with a metallic tint. Beetles actively feed on leaves and many other tree species in spring and early summer. The larvae of these weevils live in the soil and gnaw the roots of various types of herbal plants.
Very rarely, in the southern regions of the country, mock orange leaves are eaten by hawk moth caterpillars. (Acherontia atrops) . The larvae (caterpillars) of this species of hawkmoth are naked, lemon yellow, with blue oblique stripes converging on the back at an acute angle. The caterpillar's body is covered with sticky black and blue dots. At the end of the body on the dorsal side, like most hawkmoths, there is a horn in the shape of the letter “C”. The caterpillars of this hawkmoth also feed on the leaves of herbaceous plants of the nightshade family: belladonna (belladonna), wolfberry, oak, poppy, etc. The hawkmoth received its name because of the pattern of scales and hairs on the back of the butterfly, reminiscent of a skull.
Due to damage by aphids, mock orange shoots become bent, leaves curl, and when the pest multiplies massively, they become covered with honeydew, on which sooty fungi develop.
Mock orange in landscaping
Olga Nikitina
Everyone who is even slightly interested in gardening knows the exquisite aroma of mock orange. In addition, this plant is known for its numerous species and garden hybrids that can charm even the most discerning connoisseurs.
Usage
Very often, mock orange is called garden jasmine for the rich aroma of white flowers, similar to the smell of blooming tropical jasmine.
Mock oranges are widely used in urban landscaping; they tolerate smoke, dust and air pollution well. In parks and squares they can be seen in single and group plantings, as well as in hedges. Small species used in borders and mixborders. Dwarf varieties suitable for rockeries and slides. Mock orange can play an important and even leading role in creating white gardens, which is facilitated by the variety of crown shapes, color and texture of leaves, sizes and shades of inflorescences.
Other beautiful flowering shrubs, such as spirea, rose hips, weigels, and lilacs, are suitable as partners for mock oranges. Interesting and spectacular compositions are obtained with pink-flowered apple trees blooming in May and early flowering species and varieties of mock orange. A yellow-leaved variety h. coronary ‘ Aure A' will be a bright accent in joint landing with green-leaved mock oranges and a wonderful companion flowering bushes lilac.
The species and varietal diversity of mock oranges makes it possible to create an exquisite aromatic collection from these wonderful plants, taking into account their flowering dates. The very first to bloom at the end of May h. Schrenk, in the first ten days of June they begin to bloom Part Caucasian, h. pale, h. coronal, h. small-leaved. Flowering of late-flowering species begins in late June - early July and ends in early August. These include Part Magdalene, including grandiflora, odorless, part Lemoine, h. fluffy. If you add their varieties to the list of mock orange species, you will get a wonderful collection of fragrant, beautifully flowering shrubs.
When we talk about lilacs, we definitely remember Leonid Alekseevich Kolesnikov (not to be confused with A.I. Kolesnikov, a dendrologist, author of the famous textbook “Decorative Dendrology”), who created a huge number of unique varieties that have received worldwide recognition. But the greatest expert on chubushniks was Nikolai Kuzmich Vekhov. A well-known Soviet scientist, breeder and dendrologist, he headed the Lipetsk Experimental Breeding Station for thirty years and is the author of winter-hardy varieties of mock orange. His famous monograph Jasmines, published in 1952, is still very popular.
Russia can be proud of its domestic varieties, the best of which are considered to be mock orange varieties selected by N.K. Vekhova. Abundantly flowering, and most importantly, winter-hardy varieties were obtained by him by seed from varietal parts of Lemoine. As a result of hybridization and subsequent selection, Vekhov created numerous varieties, such as ‘Snow Avalanche’, ‘Moon Light’, ‘Ballet Motylkov’, ‘Pompon’, ‘Akademik Komarov’, ‘Airborne Landing’, ‘Arctic’ and many others.
Mock oranges tolerate smoke, dust and air pollution well.
Types and varieties
Among the abundantly flowering varieties of mock oranges of the Vekhovo selection, there are non-flowering low-growing varieties - 'Dwarf' And 'Dwarf'. The breeder recommended using them as “green buttons” that “fasten” the lawn to the ground, as well as for creating low borders that require almost no mowing.
Many types of mock orange and their varieties are quite winter-hardy and feel great in central Russia. Currently Russian garden centers offer a variety planting material these bushes. But you need to be extremely careful when choosing one or another variety, especially of foreign origin.
It is no secret that in severe winters, even winter-hardy species and varieties freeze to the level of snow cover. But since these plants have a powerful root system, the frostbitten bush quickly recovers after pruning the damaged shoots. It’s worse for less winter-hardy species and varieties, because their root system can also freeze.
Along with with the coronal part used in landscaping h. pale, but its varieties are of particular interest:
‘ Flore Plena ’ - with luxurious double flowers.
‘ Grandiflora ’ – with flowers up to 5 cm in diameter.
‘ Salicifolia ’ - with original narrow lanceolate leaves, similar to willow.
‘ Pumila ’ – shrub up to 50 cm high.
In landscape design, hybrids of the famous French breeder Lemoine are especially popular. Among them are many varieties that have proven themselves well in the conditions of central Russia:
‘ Alabastrite ’ – upright growing shrub up to 2 m high. Large, up to 5.5 cm in diameter, semi-double snow-white flowers collected in inflorescences of 7–9 pieces.
‘ Dame Blanche ’ - a shrub 1 m high and a crown diameter of 1.5 m; during flowering it is decorated with white fragrant flowers. Dark green leaves turn yellow in autumn.
‘ Erectus ’ - a spreading shrub with a crown height and diameter of up to 2 m. Simple white flowers have a strong pleasant smell. For planting it requires places well protected from the wind.
‘ Mont Blanc ’ - a shrub up to 1.8 m high with rather large leaves. Graceful semi-double pure white flowers have a strong aroma.
Lemoine varieties with two-tone flower colors are very impressive and original: ‘ Belle Etoile ’ , ‘ Bicolore ’ , ‘ Beauclerk ’ . They have fairly large white flowers (up to 5.5 cm in diameter) with a pink-purple center and long yellow stamens. Unfortunately, these exquisite varieties are not very frost-resistant, and they can only be recommended for cultivation in the southern regions.
North American species odorless reaches a height of 3 m, is distinguished by green shoots and large leaves up to 7 cm long. Its variety is magnificent ‘ Grandiflorus ’ 4 m high with large, up to 6 cm in diameter, white flowers, but, unfortunately, odorless. This variety has a long flowering period - up to 30 days.
Russia can be proud of its domestic varieties, the best of which are considered to be mock orange varieties selected by N.K. Vekhova.
Medicinal properties of mock orange
Marina Kulikova, Candidate of Biological Sciences
The medicinal and cosmetic properties of mock orange are still not very well studied; there is little information about them. But it is true that its smell can give you a headache and upset your heart.
From flowers and even leaves Many types of mock orange extract fragrant essential oil. Its flowers contain only 0.1–0.18% essential oil, the main component of which is anthranilic acid methyl ester. 7-hydroxycoumarin and 8-methoxycoumarin are also found in the plant.
Philadelphus tenuifolius), which is common in the Far East. Flowers and roots are used for medicinal purposes. The leaves and fruits of mock orange contain flavonoids. An infusion of flowers helps with neurosis, neurasthenia, and is used as a diuretic. A decoction of the roots is useful for hemorrhoids.
It is better to collect mock orange flowers in the morning in dry weather, since they begin to open at dawn and at this time contain the greatest amount of essential oils. Immediately after collection, the flowers must be dried in the shade or in the oven at a temperature not exceeding +40 ºС.
Recipes
Infusion of flowers: 2 tsp. Pour a glass of boiling water over dried flowers, leave for 1-2 hours, strain. Take 1/4 cup 3 times a day before meals.
Root decoction: 1 tbsp. l. crushed dry roots, pour 2 glasses of water, boil for 3-4 minutes, leave for 2 hours. Take 2 tbsp. l. 3–4 times a day. The decoction can be used for baths for hemorrhoids.
The most commonly used in folk medicine is the thin-leaved mock orange ( Philadelphus tenuifolius), which is common in the Far East.
Stephanotis is an indoor flowering plant whose name comes from two Greek words meaning “crown” and “ear.” This indicates the ear-shaped arrangement of the stamens of its white, fragrant, five-petaled flower. It also looks like jasmine, hence its other name - Madagascar jasmine. And because this delicate flower often appears at weddings as a decoration for the bride; it is also called the “bride’s flower” or “veil vine.”
Appearance and homeland of stephanotis
Madagascar jasmine is actually found in Madagascar, and it also grows in Japan, China and other subtropical and tropical regions. This small climbing shrub has been known in home floriculture for more than two centuries. In nature, a powerful vine is capable of climbing to a height of five meters. Domestic specimens require special supports to support their own weight. The dark emerald oval ten-centimeter leaves of the vine are dense, glossy with pointed ends. In the middle they are separated by a lighter vein.
The main value of the plant is its snow-white, fragrant flowers., arranged in clusters, each of which has up to 7 three-centimeter wax stars. These delicate flowers It is customary (along with orange blossom) to be woven into brides’ hairstyles. After the fancy stars fade, elliptical seed pods filled with flying seeds similar to dandelion seeds ripen in their place.
The ability of vine-like exotics to bend along guides is used to create fancy flower arrangements in the form of hoops, balls, hearts and other shapes. They decorate window openings, arches, and walls. But most often it is grown in greenhouses and winter gardens.
Optimal conditions for indoor cultivation of Madagascar jasmine
Stephanotis is best kept in rooms facing the south, east and west. But straight sun rays cause burns, so you should stick tracing paper on the southern windows or shade them with curtains. In the northern direction, plants do not have enough light; they have to be additionally illuminated with phytolamps. The flower likes bright lighting to last for at least half a day.
An important condition for comfort for a vine is its permanent location. Otherwise, the buds that have not yet blossomed will fall off. To avoid accidentally turning the pot, thereby creating inconvenience for the plant, a light mark is placed on the flowerpot.
The temperature in the room where the Madagascar jasmine is located should be at warm time year at least 18 degrees, but not more than 24, since it does not tolerate heat. In the cool season, this figure should be 4-8 degrees lower. This will lead to the formation of flower buds in the plant. Liana does not tolerate drafts and sudden temperature fluctuations.
How to care for stephanotis (video)
Description of Stephanotis species
About one and a half dozen varieties of stephanotis are known, but best tolerated room conditions Stephanotis is profusely flowering, which is what is often meant when talking about these plants. Brief characteristics species grown at home look like this:
- S. profusely flowering or Stephanotis floribunda has snow-white star-shaped flowers, up to 6 cm in size. Its variation (variegata) is distinguished by the fact that its leaves are not plain, but patterned. They have light or golden spots and dashes.
- S. acuminata(S. Acuminata) with cream-colored flowers.
- S. grandiflora(S. grandiflora) with magnificent large inflorescences, on which up to three dozen greenish flowers bloom.
- S. thorsii(S. thouarsii) is famous for its flowers of a delicate lilac-pink hue.
Stephanotis propagation methods
Madagascar jasmine is propagated at home mainly by cuttings and seeds. Both methods are not simple and require careful adherence to technology.
Propagation by cuttings
This method preserves all the species qualities of the mother plant. This procedure is carried out in the spring and consists of the following stages:
- A one-year-old petiole with two pairs of leaves is separated from the main plant.
- The cut sites are pollinated with stimulating powder.
- A hole is made in the earthen mixture filling the pot into which the planting material is firmly placed. Lower leaves should be slightly above the ground.
- The cutting is covered with a film with a wire frame.
- The improvised greenhouse is cleaned daily while watering and ventilating the seedlings.
- They should be kept at a temperature of 18 degrees in bright (indirect) light for at least three weeks.
- After rooting, the greenhouse is removed, and the plant with root soil is transplanted into another pot.
Propagation by seeds
The sequence of growing new plants is as follows:
- The seeds are soaked in water for two days.
- Prepare a container filled with a disinfected (soak for a couple of tens of minutes over steam or a couple of minutes in the microwave) and moistened peat-sand mixture. Its bottom is lined with fine expanded clay.
- The seeds are pressed into the ground and covered with glass.
- For seed germination you need a sunny, warm place with a temperature of 26 degrees.
- The soil must be sprayed with a spray bottle, but the moisture should not stagnate in it.
- To prevent condensation from falling on the seedlings, it is better to install a container with a slight slope. Then excess moisture will flow to the edges of the vessel.
- After a couple of months, seedlings appear, when leaves bloom on them, the seedlings are transplanted into five-centimeter separate pots with an earthen mixture as for adult plants.
Features of stephanotis transplantation
When transplanting floribunda, you must follow the following rules:
- It is done in the spring, when there are no buds on the plant yet, no more than once every two years. In this case, transshipment is used while preserving the near-root earthen coma.
- To stimulate plant flowering new pot should be only a couple of centimeters larger than the old one.
- It is important that it is heavy enough. Otherwise, it will tip over under the weight of the massive plant.
- Its bottom is filled with expanded clay balls in a layer of 5 cm.
- The soil should be heavy, with a slightly acidic reaction. Its composition should be dominated by peat (almost half the volume), a third should consist of sand, and the remaining components - clay and leaf soil - should be contained in equal proportions. And when selecting ready-made soil mixtures, you need to focus on their acidity within 5-6 units with a nitrogen content of no more than 200 mg per liter.
- Watering of transplanted plants should be normalized, it is advisable to replace it with frequent spraying as much as possible. It is recommended to dissolve a small amount of growth stimulants in water.
Caring for stephanotis at home
Caring for stephanotis is not easy and the process requires some knowledge and patience. And unskilled care weakens the plant, it gets sick more often and becomes vulnerable to pests.
Watering and spraying
There should be high humidity in the room, especially at temperatures above the optimum. Frequent spraying of leaves is practiced, but moisture should not remain on the buds and flowers. The water should be warm and soft.
It’s good to place air humidifiers and water containers next to flowers. Flowerpots can be placed in other containers filled with wet pebbles, expanded clay, and moss. Leaves need dusting. If there are no buds or flowers on the vines, the leaves can be washed warm shower. In this case, the soil in the flowerpot is covered with film.
In warm weather, the bride's flower needs abundant watering with soft water several times a week. In cool weather their frequency decreases. Do not allow water to stagnate in the pot. Watering with rain or snow water is very useful. You can soften the water by placing a fabric bag filled with peat in a bucket of water overnight.
Varieties of indoor jasmines (video)
Fertilizers and fertilizing
Floribunda does not need to be fed frequently. It is advisable to do this twice a month. Potash fertilizers are preferred. Large quantity nitrogen stimulates the growth of the green part of plants to the detriment of flowers. A heavily overgrown crown needs serious pruning. This complicates the wintering of vines. Pruning also slows down their flowering, which may not occur this year.
The formation of buds and their full blooming is promoted by fertilizing with potassium salts and superphosphates. Organic matter, such as mullein, is also useful. Fertilize twice in the middle and end of spring, combining it with watering the plants.
Plants are fertilized until the end of summer. In winter, vines do not need feeding.
Pruning a houseplant
Stephanotis grows quickly, becoming (if all care rules are followed) a magnificent flowering vine. To adjust its size, direction of growth, and shape, it is necessary to trim the plants. Dry and damaged parts of the floribunda and weakened shoots are completely removed. Before transplanting, the stems are also partially trimmed.
It is known that buds appear only on new shoots, so Madagascar jasmine needs rejuvenating pruning. It should be gentle, but it is done in the depths of winter. In this case, the shoots are cut to half their length. They try not to disturb the central stem, because the plant doesn't like it. To prolong the flowering of the vine in the summer months, shoots are pinched.
Signs and superstitions associated with stephanotis
Madagascar jasmine is considered by some to be a muzhegon. This means that a woman who grows this flower dooms herself to loneliness. In addition, The jealous man drives husbands out of the house, breaking up families. But this is an unsubstantiated superstition.
In some European countries, it is believed that blooming stephanotis promises a quick wedding in the house. It is not for nothing that snow-white flowers are an indispensable attribute of many weddings. Blooming vines, according to their lovers, bring happiness and financial stability to the house.
You should know that the caustic sap of a tropical plant, when it comes into contact with the skin and mucous membranes, causes burning and itching. For people with delicate skin, it is better to take care of it with gloves. Flowerpots with flowers should be inaccessible to children and pets.
In addition, these plants should not be placed with strong and persistent odor in the bedrooms. They can cause insomnia and headache.
Difficulties in growing Madagascar jasmine
Madagascar jasmine is a difficult plant to care for, so even experienced gardeners encounter problems and difficulties when growing it. We will talk about fighting them.
What to do if stephanotis does not bloom
In nature, stephanotis blooms most of the year. It is difficult to recreate the conditions familiar to him at home. For stable flowering, the tropical plant needs potassium supplements.
Has reached the age of three houseplant usually blooms all summer. To achieve this, need to stick to following rules:
- Do not forget about its timely transplantation.
- Do not place the flower in a draft and do not allow sudden temperature changes in the room where it grows.
- Provide for its wintering in a cool environment.
- Ensure constant lighting of the plant.
- Do not change the position of the flower pot (in relation to the light) during the formation of buds and its flowering.
Why do plant leaves turn yellow and fall off?
Yellowing of leaves occurs for several reasons:
- From watering with hard water with chlorine. In this case, water first special solutions with absorbed iron and then soft water.
- Lack of light, when moved to a suitable place, the condition of the flower improves.
- The influence of the red spider mite. You get rid of it by wiping the leaves with denatured alcohol.
- Excessive watering of the vine. In this case, you should focus on spraying, reducing watering.
Stephanotis diseases and pests
Flowering vines get sick and even die if not cared for properly. When the roots rot, which results in the plants wilting, they need to be replanted, replacing the soil, removing the affected parts and treating them with a weak solution of foundationazole. From powdery mildew, manifested by the appearance on the leaves white plaque, is saved by spraying 2-3 times with a weak solution of potassium permanganate at intervals of several days. If this does not help, then the vines are treated with Skor, Topaz, and Fundazol.
Stefanotis is also attacked by the following pests:
- A spider mite that weaves a web around it.
- Scale insects and aphids suck the juices out of it, which leads to yellowing of the leaves.
- A mealybug that envelops plants in a cotton-like coating.
Wedding flower stephanotis (video)
In the fight against them and other insects, washing the plants with a weak solution of soap or vinegar helps. The heavy artillery is the drugs Actellik, Fitoverm, Decis.
To properly care for the rare tropical stephanotis plant, an inexperienced gardener needs to learn a lot. But after considerable effort has been spent on it, Madagascar jasmine will delight household members for many years decorative leaves, which can be given any shape, and fragrant exotic flowers.
Jasmine is a multi-stemmed shrub that reaches a height of up to 4 meters. The varieties of Crowned and Small-leaved Jasmine are most often grown in gardens. Let's see what proper bush care is.
Planting in open ground
Jasmine is planted in the garden late spring or early autumn. You can choose almost any place for the plant, as it tolerates shade well. However, with a strong excess of light may not bloom.
The main thing in how to care is the soil. It must be fertile and necessarily loose. A drainage layer with a height of at least 15 centimeters should be laid in the planting hole. This can be any stones or expanded clay, which in case of stagnation of water will divert it from the roots.
The soil for planting the bush should be loose and fertile
The hole for planting should be 50 centimeters in diameter and the same depth. Sand and a mixture of earth and peat are placed on the drainage, after which the plant is placed in the ground and watered abundantly.
When using a shrub as a hedge, you should remember the large size of its crown and make a space between plants of at least 80 centimeters.
Watering and humidity
Garden shrubs require regular and abundant watering. Lack of moisture leads to deterioration in the growth and condition of the plant as a whole. In summer, one watering of an area measuring 1 square meter requires at least 20 liters of water.
Like many plants, it does not like waterlogging. To do this, a drainage layer is created during planting.
In winter, watering the plant is not required as it remains in the garden. To withstand cold and frost, its roots are covered with cloth and covered with sawdust. In addition to watering, it is recommended to loosen the soil once every two weeks.
Temperature and lighting
Bush tolerates shade well, but for lush flowering it requires sunlight. Therefore it is worth choosing open place so that the sun freely reaches the bush.
Sunlight– an obligatory factor for the flowering of shrubs The temperature norm is considered to be from 8 to 25 degrees. In winter, the main thing is to prevent the root system from freezing.
Soil and fertilizers
The plant blooms well and develops only in fertile, loose soil, in which there is no excess moisture. You can prepare the soil for planting yourself. The mixture will require in equal quantities:
- Leaf soil;
- humus;
- garden soil;
- peat.
In addition to soil, fertilizer plays an important role in development. Fertilizing is done with organic and mineral mixtures. This allows you to get long flowering and a lush bush.
In the first year of the bush’s life, it is fertilized with liquid manure. Starting from the second year, mineral fertilizers are used. They are enough a couple of times a year during the period of active growth.
How and when to perform anti-aging pruning
Over time the bush needs to be rejuvenated, as its old branches become long and bare. This prevents young branches from growing and spoils the appearance of the bush.
The event consists from several stages:
- In the spring, several branches are cut off at a level of 0.5 meters, the remaining ones are removed completely to the base.
- The cut areas are treated with a solution of garden varnish, which can be purchased at a specialty store.
- All summer the bush is watered and fertilized abundantly.
- The shoots that grow from the buds are cut off, leaving only a few of the strongest ones, which will become the basis of the renewed shrub.
- A year later, in the spring, the plant takes on the desired appearance, and after a few more years a flowering bush appears.
Formative pruning
Garden Jasmine periodically needs to be shaped. To do this, gardeners do formative pruning on plants. The event is held after flowering.
The first step is to remove dried inflorescences. Then new shoots are cut off: the green part of the stem. By mid-autumn, new shoots will appear in this place, which will produce flowers for next year.
If desired, reduce the height cut off the longest shoots. For thinning, inward and bare shoots are removed.
Dried parts of the bush require removal first. Diseases and pests
Due to its strong smell, jasmine is rarely attacked by pests, but due to non-compliance with the rules of care and drought, the plant gets sick and settles on its branches. spider mite, scale insect or aphid.
To kill insects, use a soap solution or specialized insecticidal agents.
He often has leaf shape changes or they fall off altogether. This indicates that the plant does not have enough moisture and should increase watering. The same symptoms appear with excess sunlight.
To correct the situation, the bush is transplanted to another place or shade is created artificially. For example, in the form of a fence or canopy.
Lack of flowering indicates a lack of light, and darkening of the buds means that dry and too warm air is interfering with it.
Shrub propagation
Garden plant varieties are propagated in several ways:
Seminal
The longest way. Shrub seeds are planted in beds in late autumn or early winter, until severe frosts set in. After planting, the place is covered with spruce branches. In spring, the first shoots appear.
This method makes the plant strong and resistant to diseases and cold. Get flowering plant from seeds it is possible 6-8 years after planting.
By layering
In the spring, all shoots are removed from the bush, then in the summer, from the young shoots take the strongest one and is used for reproduction. At the bottom of the shoot, you should tie the branch with wire, which will allow you to get a root in the future.
Then this shoot bends towards the ground and is fixed. After 30-50 days, new shoots appear on the cuttings, which are covered with earth. Closer to autumn, they are separated from the bush and planted separately.
Cuttings
In June, in the morning, a shoot with leaves measuring at least 10 centimeters in size is taken. The cutting is placed in solution for root growth, and then into a greenhouse, where the soil is prepared in advance from peat and sand. The planting depth should be about 3 centimeters.
The distance between the cuttings is approximately 5-6 centimeters. Watering and ventilation during rooting is carried out daily. After a couple of weeks, a root will form, then the cuttings can be planted in the beds.
Cuttings are reliable and easy way bush propagation Dividing the root system
This method allows you to grow a new bush in a short time. Jasmine is dug out of the ground and divided root system, so that each part has root shoots.
The best time for the procedure is the end of September or the beginning of October.
Why Jasmine does not bloom and what to do
Gardeners love Jasmine for its beautiful and fragrant flowering. It happens that a bush does not bloom for a long time. The reason for this may be several factors:
Description of the bush
The stems of the plant are green at the beginning of growth, then become yellow, and sometimes covered with brown bark. The leaves are oval and have a rich green color. It blooms from May to July with small flowers with a pronounced honey scent.
Jasmine easy to care for, but it depends on compliance with the rules of cultivation further growth, appearance and flowering.
Garden varieties
To popular garden varieties include:
- Coronet is a large shrub reaching a height of up to 3 meters. Its flowers are white or cream-colored and have a pungent odor.
- Small-leaved - has a small bush with double flowers and a pleasant subtle aroma.
- Fluffy. His often referred to as trees. The height of the variety is up to 4 meters. The flowers are cream-colored and lightly scented.
As a result of crossing these species, other varieties appeared: Efironos, Alabaster, Sambacam and many others.
Preparing for winter
Its further growth and flowering depends on how the winter goes. Jasmine tolerates cold well, so there is no need to dig it up for the winter.
Covering the bush for the winter instead of digging it up is the right decision Before the onset of severe frosts, the plant cover and leave in hibernation under the snow until spring. Sawdust, spruce branches or spruce branches are used for shelter. After winter, the bush is trimmed and frozen branches are removed.
Jasmine in landscape design
Gardeners use shrubs to create a living fence. Plant it around the entire perimeter summer cottage at a distance of at least 80 centimeters. Jasmine, even in a single bush, adds to the garden great view and delights others with its flowering and smell.
You can plant several varieties at once and then each of them will bloom in turn. throughout the summer. Low varieties are used for rock gardens.
Tall jasmine looks good in front of gazebos and a home lake. Shrubs combine favorably with lilacs and other shrubby plants.
Not just shrubs can be used to decorate gardens and flower beds. We have repeatedly talked about this use of garden flowers. For example, .
Landscape design often turns to this shrub for help Landscape design often turns to this shrub for help Landscape design often turns to this shrub for help
Proper care and attention is all Jasmine needs to good growth and flowering.
