Kobeya climbing: how to grow a flowering vine from seeds? Planting and growing climbing kobeya from seeds at home, in the garden Creeping kobeya

Two years ago, planning spring work, I decided to decorate the wall of the country house in some unusual way.

When buying seeds, my gaze involuntarily stopped at the bags with the inscriptions: “Lilac Kobeya” and “White Kobeya”. Very beautiful and unusual bells were depicted on them.

And the instructions on the bags promised some kind of magic in advance: “Liana is ideal for vertical gardening", "a spectacular climbing vine will bring down a waterfall of large bells on you." Since I wanted to grow something unusual, I settled on this beautiful flower. The only thing that held me back was that kobeya had to be grown through seedlings. And I’ve already heard that this is a rather capricious plant.

So, the climbing kobe, whose homeland is Mexico, is a perennial, but only in areas with a warm climate. Here we grow it as an annual crop. I made up my mind and at the end of February I bought two bags of seeds - one with a lilac flower color and one with a white one. And I immediately made my first mistakes: firstly, I should have taken care of purchasing kobeya much earlier, in early February, and I had to purchase seeds not one bag at a time, but two at a time and preferably from different companies, because... not all of them have good germination.

Sowing dates and seedlings

I put seeds from both bags for germination on March 2. Each of them contained five seeds. In one saucer I sprouted the seeds of white kobe, in the other - lilac.

In each saucer I placed a paper napkin folded in several layers and moistened it with a weak pink solution of potassium permanganate. On paper napkins I arranged the seeds so that they did not touch each other. I placed each saucer with seeds in a plastic bag, kept these bags in a warm place, but always in the light. The temperature during seed germination should not be lower than +20°C. Every day I checked the seeds and removed mucus from them when it began to form. This mucus prevents seed germination. I made sure that the paper napkins in the saucers did not dry out.

Seed germination time is 15-20 days. If mold appears on the seeds during germination, be sure to wash them with a pink solution of potassium permanganate and change the paper in the saucers.

And here are the results I got from the first batch of seeds set for germination. In the saucer with white kobe seeds, not a single seed hatched; I kept them germinating for a whole month, and they did not produce roots. Two lilac kobe seeds sprouted: one after ten days, the second after two weeks.

I carefully planted both seeds, one at a time, with the flat side, each in a separate pot (0.5 l) to a depth of 1 cm. The soil for seedlings should be taken from flowers, good quality, you can add a little coconut substrate to it.

So, the lilac kobeya was planted. But I really wanted to plant white kobeya. I bought its seeds again, but only on March 17, from a different company. Immediately in the evening I put them to germination. I did the same operations as with the first batch of seeds. This time I was lucky: within a week three seeds had sprouts, and after 10 days a root appeared on the fourth seed. They were all immediately planted in pots.

The next stage in growing seedlings gave the following results. A sprout of lilac kobeya appeared in the pot after 8 days in one glass, it grew very slowly, and only at the beginning of April a real leaf appeared. Another pot of lilac kobeya showed no signs of life, and when I dug up the seed a month later, I saw that it had rotted. I kept the cups on a warm windowsill and illuminated them with a fluorescent lamp.

The second batch of white kobea developed rapidly: on March 24 and 27, the seeds were planted in cups. The shoots appeared a week later, and on April 8 they already had their first true leaves. I watered the plants very carefully - I couldn’t let the soil in the cups dry out, but I also shouldn’t overwater them. I fed it twice with Kemira-lux fertilizer. As soon as real leaves appeared, I stuck a thin stick into each glass, or an ordinary twig. After three weeks, I transplanted all the kobe seedlings into liter containers. She replanted it very carefully: its stems were fragile, thin, and I was afraid to break it. I have already placed twigs in these containers with transplanted plants. larger size.

Kobeya grows very slowly at first, but then it picks up such a pace that you have to place the cups further away from each other, otherwise the fragile stems will intertwine.

After transplanting into liter containers, we were no longer able to keep the seedlings in the room on the windowsill, there was not enough space, and we put them on the glassed-in loggia. But our seedlings really liked it there: more air and sun. Since the kobei seedlings begin to grow rapidly, in May you can once again transplant them into larger pots, but we did not do this; we braided its stems as best we could around the sticks. For better tillering, you can pinch the tops of the seedlings, but we didn’t do this operation either - the mass of the stems grew so rapidly that we were afraid we wouldn’t be able to cope with the large number of shoots.

The seedlings are ready, they need to be taken out to the site. My husband and I packed each vine in cardboard box, folding the shoots in rings so that they do not get too tangled.

Garden planting and care

Kobeya should be planted when the threat of frost has completely passed. These vines, when they become mature plants, will withstand frosts and down to -5°C. We prepared the planting site in advance, in the fall. The site there is well drained, the soil is loose, fertile, moisture-permeable, the place is sunny, protected from cold winds. The distance between plants is 60 cm.

I planted the kobeya in early June. I had to do this alone, and again a mistake was made. It is very difficult to plant it without anyone’s help, since you must simultaneously hold the shoots so that they do not get tangled or break off, and push the lump of earth with roots out of the pot. I had to suffer with this operation. But my main omission was that I did not harden the seedlings before planting them in the ground. I just took the pots with plants out of the greenhouse and planted them in the ground.

The weather was sunny with strong winds, and after two days all my plants looked sad: white burnt leaves, burnt stems. The kobei were almost destroyed, it was necessary to save the plants. Covered them up non-woven material, established constant control over them, carefully watered them, and gradually accustomed them to the sun. We began to wait to see if our kobes would come to their senses after such burns.

But, apparently, this plant is very strong and life-loving; side shoots gradually began to grow and gradually gain strength. Very soon they recovered from the disease and began to grow actively, increasing the vegetative mass of the vines every day. We stretched strings of twine up to the roof. The gap between the wall of the house and the mesh on which the vine will rest is approximately 10-15 cm. All shoots were carefully tied to twine.

When tying the stems, you must not pull the shoots too tightly to the twine; direct the numerous stems not all together upward, but distributing them in the form of a fan.

The following year, we already secured the kobei vine using paper clips taken from bread bags. The kobei support can also be placed in the form of a lattice or mesh. With its help you can well drape an arch or a gazebo. Then, when the vine gains strength, it itself attaches itself to the support, clinging to it with ears that form at the ends of the leaves. Two weeks later, when the plants took root and the vines began to increase their vegetative mass, we watered them with water containing slurry diluted in it. You can pour water with diluted azophoska. The vines were watered in the evening as needed, very generously, thoroughly soaking the soil. By August the vine had grown greatly. In August, kobeya was watered with a solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

Many will say: is it worth spending so much effort to grow this vine; you can plant others that would be less fuss with. But kobeya is really beautiful and spectacular. And if you still decide to plant it at home, you will never part with it. To cover the wall of a house 5 meters long, four kobea plants were enough for us. The liana thanked us in full: four-meter powerful vines of beautiful leaves grew, original flowers appeared: large lilac and white bells. True, the white bells were not pure white, but with a yellowish tint. And what interesting stamens these flowers have: very long, extending beyond the corolla with a beautiful bend. The vines bloomed at the end of July and bloomed until frost.

Kobeya became the decoration of the site, everyone who came to us stopped at these vines and were interested in the plant. It is very decorative. Faded inflorescences on vines do not need to be removed; the petals fly off on their own, but at the same time the plant always retains its decorative and neat appearance. In September, a lot of seed pods sprouted on the kobei, they are also very interesting, they look like small strong cucumbers, we were very surprised when we saw them.

Last year, I was again delayed in germinating kobeya, but now I was helped by the fact that the seeds were of better quality, quickly hatched and sprouted in pots, and also by the fact that I already had some skill in growing this plant.

To see the flowering of kobei at the end of July, you need to take care of this plant in February.

It is noteworthy that last year some shoots of kobei made their way into the cracks in the veranda and attic and there they stretched their lashes 1.5 meters and even bloomed. In addition, last year there were no severe frosts in the fall, and our kobeas bloomed until the end of October. They removed the green and flowering canes from the supports, and it was a great pity to destroy this beauty.

Kobeya needs to be planted in very fertile soil, fed and watered regularly. Yes, I want to clarify: when I was studying foliar feeding vegetable plants on the site, twice my kobes also received this feeding with Uniflor microfertilizers.

Why do these vines need to be fed well? We came to this conclusion by comparing the development of one of the kobei seedlings, which I gave to other hands. I saw this plant as an adult. Unfortunately, there the vine did not gain the same power and beauty that it demonstrated on our site. We realized that kobeya gratefully responds to care and attention with its lush flowering and powerful healthy looking creeper

Galina Romanova, experienced gardener

Kobea is an ornamental vine native to South America. A climbing subshrub in the warm, humid climate of the subtropics grows in forests as perennial. Kobeya was cultivated at the end of the 13th century. IN landscape design it is used as an element in vertical gardening of gardens. With the help of lianas they design:

• hedges;
• arches;
• balconies;
• gazebos.

In the rather harsh climate of our country, the ornamental vine is grown as an annual. In nature, there are nine varieties of plants belonging to the genus Kobei. Flower growers use one type of climbing kobei. It has a number of other names:

• creeping kobeya;
• Mexican ivy;
• monastery bells.

Kobeya is a climbing shrub with a powerful, branched root system in the form of thin fibrous roots. The liana can grow more than six meters per season.

The stem is branched, angular, covered with beautiful, complex-pinnate leaves, arranged alternately. Each shoot ends with tendrils; these are modified leaves; it is with their help that the vine is able to rise to great heights on any basis.

Thanks to the nutrition provided by the powerful root, the plant develops very quickly. In a short period of time, the vine entwines a vertical area large size, which is very important in landscape design when decorating gardens and personal plots.

The leaf axils are the places where the flower stalks are located. Quite long (20 cm). The flowers are large and fragrant. The shape is bell-shaped. The diameter is about 8 cm. The pistil and stamens protrude strongly from behind the petals. This makes the flowers elegant and unique. Bell-shaped flowers are arranged singly or in pairs.

Flowering is long lasting. Lasts until the first frost. The first flowers open in July. By the end of the season, fruits are formed from them. The shape of the fruit resembles a box. The seeds are flat, oval, large. When the flowers bloom they are greenish-cream and smell musky. Later, a change in color and smell occurs. The color becomes either white or purple. Depends on the variety. They smell like honey.

In nature South America, there are nine species. Flower growers use only one for breeding. A species that has found application is the climbing kobei. Reproduces:

• Seeds through seedlings;
• Cuttings (rarely).

Liana is a tropical plant that loves warmth and moisture. The climate in most regions of Russia is harsh for it; it cannot winter; it is grown traditionally as an annual crop.

In the middle zone, with proper care during the summer season, the vine increases its vegetative mass well. It manages to bloom. With the seedling method of cultivation, it begins to bloom in July and blooms until frost. Fruits are formed, but seeds rarely ripen.

In southern regions with a subtropical climate, the liana can be cultivated as a perennial. Flowering of perennial kobeya begins in April. Gardeners love kobeya for its high decorative value. During active growth in a short time it can braid any support:

1. Cone.
2. Pergola.
3. Arch.
4. Column.
5. Grid.

A decorative support, covered with bright green lacy foliage and, at the end of summer, bell-shaped flowers of different shades, becomes a real decoration of the garden from June until frost.

The violet kobeya variety is ideal for vertical gardening. The liana grows up to 4 meters per season. It gives a lot of shoots. It blooms with beautiful, large, bell-shaped flowers.

The flowers can be different shades of purple, ranging from light purple to dark purple. Blooms profusely when grown in sunny areas with soil dug deeply before planting.

During the summer, for full growth and flowering, the liana requires:

• regular watering;
• feeding;
• topping;
• loosening.

A spectacular annual climbing plant. By the end of summer, the vine reaches a height of 4 meters. It blooms with large white flowers, the diameter of which is almost 8 centimeters. It is recommended to plant along the walls of the gazebo, near the fence, along the balconies.

The plant produces shoots that, clinging to the support with their tendrils, quickly grow and delight the eye with a waterfall of leaves of a beautiful emerald green color. The shape of the inflorescences is very reminiscent of large bells. At the beginning of flowering they are pale green, gradually changing color and becoming bright white.

Preference is given to areas brightly lit by the sun. With fertile, loose soils. It is recommended to propagate by seeds. To be received at the end of May or the first ten days of June strong seedlings Sowing seeds should be done in February.

The Tsar Bell variety is an annual climbing vine. Grows up to 3 meters in height. The leaves are pinnate with a wrinkled surface. At the end of the shoot there are tendrils that attach the plant to the support.

It blooms with large white flowers (6-8 cm), the shape resembles a large bell. Flowering continues from the beginning of July until the first frost.

Tsar Bell is an ideal plant for vertical gardening. Recommended to use for decoration:

• facades of houses;
• verandas;
• gazebos;
• trellis.

Sowing is recommended to be done in February. Replant into the ground after establishment warm weather with positive night temperatures. Usually this is the end of May, beginning of June. You can get a strong, abundantly flowering plant when planting seedlings in July.

The Amazon kobei variety blooms with beautiful purple flowers shaped like bells; at first they are light green and gradually turn purple.

The plant produces many shoots that quickly reach a length of 4 meters.

At the ends of the shoots there are mustaches. Amazon liana grows well in fertile soil. Loves watering, fertilizing, sunlight.

In greenhouse conditions it can be grown as a perennial crop.

To grow kobeya, you need seeds and knowledge of certain rules of agricultural technology, knowing which even a beginner can cope and grow a strong plant on his own. good seedlings one-year-old kobei.

When planning a planting site, consider what the vine likes:

• Fertile, fertilized soil;
• deeply dug soil;
• absence of drafts;
• Sun.

When to plant seedlings

In our climate, with frequent spring frosts You can achieve flowering of kobei if you think about seedlings at the time. This must be done in February. The best time for sowing is considered to be from the end of February to mid-March.

Preparing soil and seeds

Kobe seeds are quite large, flat, and have a round shape. You can sow dry, but soaked seeds germinate faster. You will need:

• Saucer;
• Cellophane bag;
• Seeds;
• Toilet paper;
• Epin (or any other growth stimulant).

Roll up toilet paper in several layers, soak it in a growth stimulator, and place it on a saucer. Place the seeds on toilet paper so that they do not touch each other. Place the saucer inside a plastic bag. Tie the bag and place it in a warm, lit place.

Until the seeds hatch, they should be periodically rinsed in running water, change toilet paper, make sure that mold does not appear on the seeds. If the wait for pecking is prolonged, you can try to help - take a needle and prick each seed.

To obtain strong seedlings, you need good soil and a separate container for each plant. When sown in individual containers, kobeya suffers less during transplantation. Soil should be purchased from flower shop universal or special floral.

Fill containers with soil. Water. Carefully place the sprouted seeds in the middle of each pot. Cover with a layer of soil of at least 1.5 cm. At an air temperature of 20, sprouts will appear after 2-3 weeks.

Seedlings grow better and stretch less if the ambient temperature is not higher than 16 C. An important role is played by good lighting. The more light, the stronger and healthier plant. As soon as the sprouts appear, place supports in the pots. The young vine will cling to it. Instead of rigid supports, you can use twine, securing it at the top.

Basic care before transplantation open ground:

• Watering;
• spraying with warm water;
• shortening long lashes.

If the indoor air is too dry, young plants may suffer from spider mites. Kobeya grows quickly, so that the vines do not intertwine with each other, you need to place pots with seedlings so that there is a large gap between them.

A larger pot will be required for replanting as soon as the container becomes too small for the root system. Transshipment is necessary for good growth seedlings.

Only when the threat of night frosts has passed should you plant kobeya in the garden on permanent place. Even a small minus can destroy a fragile seedling. It is most reliable to carry out transplantation work in early June.

When planting several vines, dig holes at a distance of at least 0.5 meters. For good plant growth, prepare a dressing for planting holes, mix:

• Peat;
• Humus;
• River sand;
• Garden soil.

It would be nice if you add a little double superphosphate to the pit. This will increase soil fertility. Before transshipment, do not forget to water the plant. Carefully remove it from the container, place it in the planting hole, cover it with soil, compact it tightly and fill it with water. To retain moisture, mulch the soil with dry grass.

In summer, kobeya needs to be watered in a timely manner. The plant is subtropical and needs moisture. It is necessary to water moderately, avoiding stagnation of moisture. Feed once two weeks after planting nitrogen fertilizers, further fertilizing should be carried out only with flower fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen. You can use infusions made from ash, mullein, and herbs.

Dry hot weather It is necessary to irrigate the vine. If this is not done, spider mites will appear on the plant. Flowering continues until frost. To prevent the plant from losing its decorative appearance, remove faded and dried flowers regularly.

The liana constantly throws out new shoots. During the summer, you will have to tie them to a support so that they do not entangle other plants growing nearby. It is noted that on acidic soils the flowers have a red tint, and in soils with low acidity the flowers are blue.

Most often, with excessive watering or in damp summers, kobeya affects root rot. A symptom of the disease will be the presence of dark spots on the leaf blades. Loosening the soil is the main prevention of the disease. If diseased plants appear, they must be removed as quickly as possible by digging them up along with the roots.

You shouldn’t expect to get your kobe seeds in the fall. In the conditions of the Russian climate, this is an impossible task. The seeds do not have time to ripen. You should only rely on purchased seeds. Moreover, their germination rate, even among well-known companies, is not high, no more than 30%.

Is it possible to preserve kobeya in winter?

A not lazy gardener with a cellar can grow kobeya as a perennial crop. After October 10, before night frosts hit, all stems must be cut off.

In order to grow any plant, you need to understand it. Moreover, such a complex and luxurious plant as kobeya. This article summarizes the experience and knowledge of many gardeners who have understood the needs of the climbing kobe and have been successfully using it for landscaping their plots for several years.

Beautiful tropicana "climbing kobeya"

Every passionate gardener dreams of having something special on his or her plot that makes a bright impression, is pleasing and memorable. Kobeya is exactly such a plant, and growing kobei from seeds at home - the process is complex, fascinating and gives the deepest satisfaction.

Like most vines known to us, kobeya comes from the tropics, namely, from the tropics of South America, where about 9 varieties of this plant are found. Under its usual conditions, kobeya is a perennial, grows in tropical forests and can rise to a height of 5-8 meters, clinging with its antennae to branches and tree bark, to all possible protrusions and roughness. Here, kobei propagation occurs naturally through self-germination of fallen seeds.

A completely different situation is observed when trying to grow kobeya in our country. Not all known species can tolerate the peculiarities of the Russian climate, so we have the opportunity to admire only one representative of this luxurious vine - the climbing kobei, but in its different varieties.

Anyone who has ever encountered kobeya in landscape design will certainly want to plant this plant in their garden. Kobeya grows very quickly, covers with lush greenery large areas, delights with the openwork emerald of its leaves and large bells of flowers. Having such a beauty in your garden is a very worthwhile endeavor.

A reliable way is to grow kobeya from seeds

As soon as they call kobeya for its disobedience: “capricious beauty”, and “problematic bindweed”, and “belated joy”... Many, many gardeners make attempts to grow this vine every year. It must be said that not everyone succeeds on the first try. But it is imperative to grow kobeya from seeds, and from the latest harvest, since germination directly depends on their age.

There is another argument in favor of doing it yourself: a fairly long period of plant development from germination to flowering. Kobeya, soon after germination, sharply increases in growth and until the time of planting in a permanent place it has a greater height and needs support. In addition, the tendrils that appear strive to catch on to everything possible, spin around the trunk, intertwine with each other, so each plant must be grown individually: sow in time, tie it up, pin it - only then it will delight you with early and abundant flowering.

Growing kobei seedlings will require a lot of space.

During mass cultivation of seedlings necessary conditions it is extremely difficult to provide, if only due to lack of space. Therefore, when purchasing a strong but small kobei bush at a green fair, you can hardly expect it to bloom, since in age it is about a month behind its counterparts grown from seeds at home.

Selecting the right soil for growing seedlings

The soil for growing seedlings should be similar to natural soil tropics - light, loose, easily permeable to air and moisture. Many gardeners use universal soil for seedlings. You can prepare a mixture of equal parts of sand, humus, leaf and turf land. You shouldn’t worry too much about nutrition and fertilizing, so as not to cause a sharp growth of seedlings, because they have to wait two to three months for planting in the ground.

Kobe planting dates

The whole process of growing kobeya may seem too labor-intensive and complicated, however, those who show patience and sincere interest will receive a well-deserved reward and a long friendship with this amazing plant.

Important! Sowing of seeds must be done at the end of February, but better in early March (spring after all!) The planting schedule should include time for seed preparation - from 1 to 3 days and time for germination - up to 12 - 15 days.

The seed shell is very hard, so many gardeners prefer their preliminary preparation:

1. Soak until the shell separates. Cover the container with a damp cloth, spread out the seeds, place everything in a plastic bag, and place in a warm, bright place. Change the napkin periodically, wash the seeds, and prevent mold from appearing. After swelling, the softened shell will detach and can be carefully separated.
2. Soaking in Epin solution or within several days. This technique will give the seeds strength, increase immunity and soften the shell.
3. Piercing. Soak the seeds until they swell and carefully pierce the shell with a needle. This will help the sprout to break through.

Methods and conditions for seed germination

Then the seeds need to be germinated. There are also several methods known here:

1. Take a small container, cover with a damp cloth, spread out the seeds and add water, preventing them from drying out. The container should be in a warm place. The first roots appear after 12-15 days.
2. Also spread the seeds on a damp cloth, cover plastic film and put in a warm place. It is necessary to remove condensation from the film daily, ensure that mold does not form, and change the napkin. The waiting period for the first roots is 2 weeks.
3. Place the seeds in peat tablets, do not over-moisten or over-dry. When a sprout appears, transfer it to a pot with soil.
4. Sow dry kobe seeds in moist soil in a small container. Shoots will appear in 2-3 weeks. In the future, it will be transplanted into a larger container.

Proper care of kobe seedlings is half the success

You can sow and grow kobeya in peat and any other cups, but the most gentle way is in foil cups. They are easy to make yourself. To do this, you need to take a regular glass, wrap it in 2-3 layers of foil, without grabbing the bottom, and carefully remove the resulting cylinder from the glass. Required quantity Place such cylinders tightly in a container with holes in the bottom and fill with soil. Then sow the seeds to a depth of 1.5-2 cm.

As we remember, kobei seeds have low germination, so such sleeves are temporary containers and are intended solely to avoid unnecessary consumption of soil and space. After the sprouts appear, the first true leaves unfold, the viability of the future vine becomes clear, the cylinders can be easily torn and, without damaging the root system of the seedling at all, it can be transplanted into a larger container, in which it will safely wait until it is planted in open ground. The volume of three to four liter pots will be quite enough.

Growing kobei seedlings on a windowsill.

During this infant period, caring for the kobei consists of watering, feeding with humate, and providing support. The plant develops rapidly, shoots out a long powerful shoot, which is looking for something to gain a foothold on. You can use wooden sticks as support, but most often their length is not enough. It is much more convenient for these purposes to take twine or hemp rope, secure one end of it at a height and wrap the other around the seedling. When the time comes to move, it will be convenient to untie the rope, roll it together with the plant into a ring and transport it for planting to the dacha or plot.

During this same period, you can pinch the vine for the first time to awaken the lateral buds. By the time it is transplanted to a permanent location, the kobeya reaches a height of up to two meters, and it is better if several shoots have already been formed.

The subtleties of planting kobe seedlings in open ground

For different regions In our country, the time for planting kobei in open ground can be different: from mid-May to mid-June. You need to wait for consistently warm weather, since a drop in temperature to +10 - +5ºС is difficult for young plants to tolerate.

To plant kobei, you should choose the sunniest, warmest, but not hot, places. In an area with scorching sun It is better to use light partial shade. In addition, you should avoid drafts and strong winds, as the wind tears and breaks the shoots. In any case, the kobeya should be in plain sight, as its appearance provides aesthetic pleasure. But that’s exactly why we grow it!

This luxurious vine requires space, as it can cover quite large areas. If you plan to plant several bushes side by side, then the distance between them should be 70 - 90 cm. Some skilled gardeners practice rooting cuttings by dropping them, so with the help of one kobeya bush you can turn an unsightly fence into a fragrant green hedge over the course of a season.

Before planting the kobei, a spacious area is prepared landing pit and filled with fertile soil. The pot is well watered, after which the seedling is carefully removed, placed in a permanent place, watered abundantly and tied up.

Caring for kobeya in the garden

Kobeya will not let you relax even after landing in the ground. She really loves moisture, spraying, feeding. To achieve the greatest decorative effect, it must be watered regularly, tree trunk circles mulch in hot climates or loosen in humid climates.

This tropical beauty doesn't like dry air. In the heat, dry spots may appear on the tips of the leaves, growth and flowering may stop. This phenomenon is temporary. Evening spraying will make life easier for the plant. With a drop in ambient temperature and the onset of cool evenings, the kobeya will again appear in all its splendor.

After transplanting into the ground and during the period of active growth, weekly fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers, which are better to alternate. Good effect gives the use of mullein infusion, nitrogen and complex fertilizers for flowering plants. With the appearance of the first buds, you need to add fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus; nitrogenous ones, on the contrary, should be reduced, since we are more interested in flowers rather than leaves.

Regular pinching prevents the lashes from becoming too long and intertwined. The bush becomes more decorative and looks well-groomed. A garter is required only at first; later the kobeya will take care of it herself, the main thing is to provide her with strong support.

It must be taken into account that this vine is quite aggressive and is capable of using its closest neighbors as a support, so it is extremely important to maintain intervals between plants and remove overgrown shoots of kobei.

Options for using kobeya in garden design

Kobeya climbing is a source of inspiration for landscape designers and creative gardeners.

• It can be used for vertical gardening of pergolas, gazebos, and arches.
• Behind the lush greenery of this vine you can hide a variety of architectural flaws: dilapidated fences, ugly brickwork, a rough retaining wall.
• By arranging a dense curtain of kobeya, it is easy to divide the garden into recreation areas according to interests.
• After planting the bush in a container, you can place it on the top step of a stone staircase and let the shoots cascade down.
• Wire garden figure in one summer you can turn it into a living sculpture with just one plant.
• The balconies decorated with kobeya are magnificent. Although it is not easy to get it to bloom in such conditions, its powerful greenery is captivating, and flowers can be added by hanging varieties of other plants.
• The flower beds consisting of cobea and its partner plants are very beautiful. Some gardeners use for this various varieties petunias, abundantly blooming, low-growing, verbena.

Known methods of breeding kobei

In addition to propagation by seeds, our gardeners describe several more methods:

1. Digging in shoots. From an adult plant, select a powerful shoot located close to the ground, prepare a long groove for it, place it there, secure with a wire pin and cover 2/3 with soil. Pin the top of the shoot. Make sure the soil is constantly moist. Soon young shoots will appear and the bush will spread not only in height, but also in width.
2. Summer sowing. Sow kobeya seeds in peat pots in mid-July at home. After germination and the appearance of true leaves, plant in big pot and bury it in the garden. There the plant adapts to external conditions and prepare for winter. With the onset of cool temperatures, the pot of kobeya is taken out, checked for pests, watered and put into the basement. If there is a cool and bright room, then you can leave it there too. In April, the vine is returned from wintering to a sunny windowsill and then the kobeya is cared for as described above.
3. Cuttings from last year's bush. Place the bush that overwintered in the basement in a warm, bright place. After some time, it will throw out young shoots, which are carefully cut off and rooted in damp sand, just like any other cuttings.

Is it worth collecting kobe seeds?

In the southernmost regions where it is possible early boarding kobei in open ground, it is observed abundant flowering, some gardeners get the fruits. However, even there the seeds do not reach the required maturity and are unlikely to be able to produce offspring.

In more northern regions Kobeya does not have time to form seeds at all, so seed material must be purchased annually and, preferably, from different manufacturers.

From Tropican to Russian

Restless gardeners do not stop trying to transform the climbing kobe from an annual into a perennial. To do this, summer sowing is done (the method was described above), and adult bushes are also left for the winter.

In early to mid-October, the vine bush is pruned and inspected for the presence of pests and diseases. Healthy specimens are carefully dug up, placed in a large container and transferred to the basement, where they are stored at a temperature of +8-10ºС until spring, occasionally moistening. In April, the plant is pulled out into light and warmth and cared for before planting in open ground. Gardeners who have successfully used this method report earlier and more abundant flowering of kobei.

How to recognize diseases and protect against pests

The most dangerous disease for kobei is root rot. It is especially common in areas with a humid climate. Its signs are the appearance dark spots on flowers and leaves, on late stages- withering of the entire bush. The plant requires constant watering and, in order to avoid the development of root rot, the tree trunk circles must be loosened, providing oxygen access to the roots.

Another unpleasant phenomenon is drying out the tips of the leaves, slowing down the growth and formation of flowers. This cannot be called a disease, just a plant reaction to high temperatures, which are observed in areas with hot climates. You can help the vine survive an unfavorable period by spraying the shoots in the evening. Later she will thank you for such care with lush greenery and abundant flowering.

The succulent leaves of the kobei tree are relished by two main pests: spider mites and aphids, and while aphids are easy to detect and destroy, the situation with spider mites is much more complicated. There are many different methods known folk remedies, but it’s better not to waste time, but to immediately use modern chemicals in accordance with the instructions in order to have a healthy and beautiful bush on your site.

- a microscopic insect that many inexperienced gardeners discover too late, when the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off, and in the advanced stage a thin cobweb is visible, entangling the leaves, shoots, and flowers. Such a plant will die on its own and become a breeding ground for spider mites, which quickly spread to many other plants.

One adult female, during her short life of 2-3 weeks, manages to produce several hundred eggs, which mature and produce new insects every 3 days. Once in the ground, the eggs remain viable for 5 years. A spider mite infestation is similar to an epidemic and requires quick and decisive action.

Approach your kobei often, inspect the leaves and as soon as you notice small yellow dots, turn the leaf over and examine its lower surface through a magnifying glass. Most likely you will find a light cobweb and a colony of small insects: adults, small ones and numerous eggs. It is urgent to remove and burn the affected leaves, treat with an appropriate preparation and repeat this procedure until the plant is completely healthy.

It makes no sense to list the names of drugs to combat aphids and spider mites, since these insects develop resistance and the means of control should be changed annually.

Suggested varieties of kobei

As mentioned above, only one species can grow in Russia - climbing kobeya. The most popular varieties are those with purple and white flowers. Moreover purple varieties kobei have more large flowers, up to 10 cm in diameter, and white - beautiful greeneryand the flowers are slightly smaller - 8 cm. It is interesting that in the process of growth, each flower changes its color from rich purple to almost pink and from greenish to delicate white, so every day the kobeya transforms and looks new.

To maintain its decorative effect on high level, you need to remove dried flowers. And if seed pods also appear on your vine, then you can admire its beauty tirelessly. They look especially luxurious mixed plantings purple and white varieties.

Planting material should be purchased every year and from different manufacturers. Firm Russian vegetable garden, for example, offers kobei seeds Lilac Ringing and Tsar Bell. The first variety has large purple flowers, flowering period from July to September. The second is later flowering, from July until frost, and slightly smaller delicate white flowers.

In the assortment of the online store Plasma Seeds white varieties are represented by Kobei Jingle Bells and White climbing, and purples are Amethyst Bells and Violet Climbing. They differ from the “Russian Garden” samples only in shades of color; the main characteristics are practically the same.

Agrofirm Aelita, in addition to those listed, offers Lady Hamilton kobeya with dazzling white flowers and Violet, blooming with dark purple and pale purple large bells. So there are options to choose from.

No matter how troublesome the process of growing kobeya from seeds at home may seem, all the work will be rewarded by communication with a magnificent plant, aesthetic pleasure and a sense of pride in one’s own success.

Continuation of the topic:

A strong vine with beautiful inflorescences will certainly become the favorite of any gardener. Its cultivation does not require much effort, and its spectacular flowering and rapid growth will be a pleasant addition and a suitable decoration for other crops. How to grow kobeya from seeds, the main types and secrets of success are discussed in further information.

Description and types

The beautiful kobeya is distinguished by large inflorescences - bells, heart-shaped leaves and tenacious tendrils that provide reliable fastening stem. With proper care, the plant can reach a height of six meters, and its flowering lasts for more than four months!

Large flowers collected in complex form the inflorescences reach eight centimeters in diameter, and the succulent leaves delight the eye for a long time, without turning yellow or fading in the sun. There are a total of nine species of this amazing plant, including breeding work Only one is participating - the climbing kobeya.

Kobeya climbing

This unpretentious plant is characterized by fast growth and a decent selection of suitable colors. two or three pieces are collected, and the leaves have an attractive shape. To ensure growth, it is necessary to organize a sufficiently strong support for the stem, and a fence or stretched mesh can cope with this function.

How to germinate seeds

It is incredibly difficult to purchase suitable shoots of this plant in our area, so many gardeners successfully germinate the plant from seeds. When purchasing, be sure to pay attention to the expiration date of the seed, and also study necessary conditions for growing. The basic rules are discussed below.

Algorithm for preparing and planting seeds:

1. Seed preparation consists of pre-soaking with weak solution potassium permanganate (to disinfect and give enough strength to fight diseases). For the same purposes, you can use purchased special solutions, as well as ordinary water.
2. The seed skin is quite dense, so it is recommended for rapid growth shoots, pierce it in several places with a needle.
3. Soaking in water for a day should be enough, so after this period you can plant the seeds.
4. A nutritious mixture of peat or universal primer. You can plant kobeya in total capacity, but in this case there is a high risk of damage to the roots during transplantation.
5. It is necessary to bury the seeds no more than 1 - 1.5 centimeters into the soil. After planting, you need to moisten the soil well and place it on a sunny windowsill. If there is a lack of light, it is advisable to provide alternative source, otherwise the shoots will be weak and thin.
6. After the first branch appears in the container, you need to install a wooden or plastic support. But for watering the plant, it is worth using

In the video - germinating Kobei seeds:

Kobeya grows quite quickly, and there is a risk of tangling of shoots. It is necessary to provide enough space for each seedling, and planting in open ground occurs after warm weather sets in around the end of May. For different climatic conditions this period may shift, so the main criterion will be the absence of night frosts and sufficient warming of the soil.

One of the many types of tropical vines, it has unusually beautiful and large flowers. In its homeland it is a perennial plant, but in our conditions it rarely survives the winter; it has to be planted every year. In the tropics, kobeya has nine species; in our country, only two are grown: with purple and white flowers. These two species are most adapted to unfavorable climatic conditions.

The plant has tenacious tendrils that allow it to hold firmly on vertical planes and climb from one support to another. The flowers are shaped like bells and can reach eight centimeters in diameter. As they develop, the color of the flowers changes, which gives them a special beauty. Plants are very often used by professional landscape designers for vertical gardening of gazebos, verandas, hedges, etc.

Flowers can be single or group, grow from the axils of the leaves on long stalks. The fruit is a capsule with a hard skin, opens at the side seams, the seeds are flat and oval. In the conditions of our country, most often they do not fully ripen. For cultivation, you should buy it in specialized flower shops.

An adult plant prefers fertile, loose soil and requires abundant watering. Does not tolerate shade; development is slightly inhibited in partial shade. Young shoots die when frozen, adults can withstand down to -5°C.

You need to start planting seeds from February to March. The sooner the better. But the climate zone of residence should be taken into account. When planting in open ground, the risk of frost should be minimal. If the weather forecast is unfavorable, then the seedlings must be protected from freezing temperatures.

Seeds germinate with difficulty; to increase germination, it is recommended to soak and stimulate. Kobe seeds are large, there are five pieces in one bag. If you purchase goods from trusted sellers, then there is hope that out of five pieces, four will come up. But practitioners advise to count on about 50%; it is better to sow with a reserve than to regret the pennies saved later. Growing kobeya from seeds can be done in two ways.

Dry seeds

Land can be purchased ( best option) or prepared independently. To prepare the soil, one part of turf soil is mixed with one part of washed sand. To increase nutritional value, it is recommended to add humus or complex mineral fertilizers to the mixture.

Very important. The seeds have a very hard seed coat, which damages the first leaves during germination. In order to help shed it, the soil must be strongly compacted after sowing. Such an agrotechnical technique will enable the plant to free itself from the seed coat while still in the ground; the cotyledon leaves will not be damaged.

Prepared seeds

Before sowing, the material is soaked in growth stimulants.

You can use any, they all have a positive effect. Experienced flower growers It is recommended to remove the shell yourself. To do this, after swelling, you need to very carefully pry it with a needle and try to remove it. How to properly prepare seeds?

Seeds take a long time to germinate, about three weeks. You need to be prepared for such long periods and not panic prematurely.

How to plant sprouted seeds in pots or cups

1. Carefully remove the hatched kobe seeds and place them on a previously prepared and moistened substrate, flat side down, sprout up. Sprinkle about 1.5 cm of soil on top and water again with a sprayer. Compact the soil a little. The seeds of the plant are large, this allows you to immediately plant the plants separately, and in the future there will be no need for thinning and picking.
2. Cover the cups or pots with film and place the containers on the windowsill. It is highly desirable that it be on the south side; natural light is very important for kobei.

Slightly grown seedlings with two true leaves need to be transplanted into large (at least three liters) flower pots, in which they can form a powerful root system, and this is very important for increasing survival rate.

At the same stage of growth, plants are hardened. The procedure must be performed without haste. First, take the vines out onto the balcony for several hours in good weather.

Over time, the period of stay outdoors increases. When the weather gets significantly warmer, you can try leaving them overnight. Just be very careful, watch the weather and don’t let the sprouts get exposed to freezing temperatures. Hardening lasts approximately three weeks, thus achieving the expected effect in a plant-friendly manner.

Transferring kobei to open ground

The specific date is determined by the climate zone of residence and actual weather conditions. It is recommended to transfer seedlings when the night temperature does not fall below +5°C. For middle zone In our country it is the end of May or the beginning of June.

Important. Keeping seedlings in pots for a long time is not good for them. It is more difficult for plants to take root, and the transfer process becomes more complicated.

First you need to decide on a place. It should be sunny and protected from cold winds, especially northern and eastern ones. The soil must be fertile. If the land on the site is not fertile, then you will have to prepare the land yourself for the kobei. You can add organic fertilizers to the existing ones, or you can bring in a completely new one for the beds. On heavy clay soils, the plant feels very poorly, development slows down, and sometimes there may be no flowering. Clay soils V mandatory will have to be refined. There are several methods.

1. First. Stir with river sand in a 1:1 ratio and add organic fertilizers.
2. Second. Bring fertile land. Dig out the clay to a depth of forty centimeters, pour new soil into the prepared areas.

Practical advice. Replacement or improvement of the soil should be done in a timely manner. At the time of planting, it should already shrink; this will take at least a month. Otherwise, the soil will shrink faster than it grows root system, small roots will be injured or torn off, which has an extremely negative impact for the growing season.

Remove the kobeya from the pots along with the soil, making sure that the roots are not damaged. If the soil is difficult to remove, it is recommended to water the plants abundantly in the evening and move the replanting to the morning. Plant kobeya in prepared holes, the depth of which corresponds to the height of the soil in the pots. Sprinkling the stem with new soil is not recommended.

The distance between plants is within one meter; after transplanting, water the plants immediately. At the same time, you need to install supports along which the vine will rise. It can be as ordinary wooden stairs, and decorative supports. If there is concern that night frosts may return, then the plants should be covered. It is better to use non-woven modern lightweight materials for these purposes.

Kobei look very beautiful on various arches. To make it easier for plants to attach to load-bearing structures recommended to use plastic mesh with large cells.

Some gardeners offer interesting way planting kobei. They plant the seeds in peat tablets in the summer. Until mid-autumn they grow a little. Then the plants are put into the cellar and stored until spring at a temperature of +5–8°C. In the spring, when the threat of frost has passed, the plants are taken out to fresh air, harden, awaken and transplant into open ground. Plants planted in this way bloom much earlier. The only problem is that you need to constantly monitor the condition of the plants in the cellar all winter. They should not outgrow; there should be enough light for the growing season.

Plant care

As already mentioned, the homeland of kobei is the tropics. Hence the rules for caring for vines. She is afraid of two things - hypothermia and lack of moisture. It is necessary to water especially abundantly in the first months after planting in open ground; in the future, the frequency and dose of watering can be reduced. If plants are planted in the shade, and the temperature is insufficient, then the risk of root rot is high. It is very difficult to fight this disease. If the plant does not die, it will not throw away its flower stalks. This means that it will be possible to admire their beauty only at next year on new plants.

The first fertilizing should contain nitrogen. With its help, a powerful root system and leaves are formed. Subsequently, as development progresses, the intensity of nitrogen fertilizing is reduced and eventually stopped completely. Adult plants are fed only with phosphorus and potassium. These nutrients needed for the formation of buds.

The length of the vine can be up to ten meters; if this parameter is not adjusted, it will crawl far up and there it will begin to curl up into a ball. To prevent such phenomena, the plant is pinched. But don’t get too carried away, otherwise the vine will become very low and wide.

Pests and diseases

The biggest problems can be caused by aphids and mites. The fight is carried out in the usual way; liquid soap with phytoverm has performed well.

Is it possible to collect seeds?

Possible, but not in all cases climatic zones. We have already mentioned that not all latitudes have a sufficient amount of positive temperatures for the full ripening of seeds. If you live in the south, then try collecting them. To do this, you need to plant the plants in open ground as early as possible to give them enough time to mature. But it should be remembered that even professional agronomists in our country collect seeds with a germination rate of no more than 30%. Now think about whether it’s worth the risk and being left without these next year beautiful plants due to the fact that the seeds were not viable.

Video - Growing Kobei