How to make the soil fertile? Interesting question. There are no answers to it! Some advise digging deep into the soil almost every month. Others - just bring the manure and not worry about it. But for some reason they don’t tell us where to get the funds to purchase it.
And I remembered my grandmother alone. We knew her for many years, and as long as we knew her, we never saw a tractor or piles of manure in her garden. The shovel was observed only during planting and harvesting of potatoes. But what’s surprising is that the soil on her site was black and very loose. And the harvests! I confess, I myself bit my lips out of envy. Her advice immediately began to come to mind.
What came out of the earth, return it
Never take weeded weeds off-site unless they are infested with disease. Always add them either to the compost pile or as mulch directly in the garden bed.
The neighbor spent every free minute looking for grass, branches, and sawdust. Sometimes she even took our weeds from the common stitch and laid them out for herself. It’s funny to us, but she kills so many birds with one stone:- A thick layer of mulch prevents weed seeds from germinating, plus it maintains a normal level of soil moisture.
- All plant waste rots over time, increasing soil fertility.
- Under such nutritious litter, earthworms live in entire colonies. Everyone knows about their usefulness.
Just don’t put entire plant residues on the beds. If possible, try to grind them. This way, the process of increasing fertility will go much faster and better.
Forget about the shovel
The neighbor never dug up her garden. And I didn’t plow with a tractor. However, at the site, the leg sank above the ankle. Now I know why she had lupins and beans growing everywhere. They have thick, long roots that leave decent holes in the soil after rotting. That's why the earth was loose and fluffy.
By the way, in the fall she never uprooted plants. He will walk by with a shovel or hoe, cut it down at ground level, and leave it like that until spring. Only in the spring I didn’t remove these tops, as we are used to doing. I raked the hole right in the mulch, and planted my simple seeds, tubers, and sprouts there.
And the grandmother carried out all operations with an ordinary garden hoe. Now it is completely replaced by a flat cutter. You just need to get used to it and set the desired angle of inclination strictly according to your height.
Put oats and rye in the ground
Let's put aside philological research about the existence of such a word. It’s better to pay attention to this: in natural conditions, the earth is never bare. There is always something growing on it or a thick layer of mulch. But fertility does not decrease! We have never seen bare soil at our neighbor’s place either.
Back then they didn’t know the word green manure. And we haven’t heard of mustard. But they solved the problem perfectly by sowing oats and rye. The neighbor always sowed any vacant patch of her garden. Even the smallest garden bed. But she did not allow a large harvest to grow. As soon as the seedlings reached a height of approximately 17-21 cm, the grandmother walked through with a regular scythe.
She cut it low, almost close to the ground. She just didn’t lay it in rows, like hay in a meadow, but on the contrary, she tried to scatter the greens wider. As it grew longer, I picked up the braid again. And so on until the frosts. During this time, a decent layer of mulch was obtained. The roots remaining in the soil also did a useful job. After all, many people know that where the rye is sown, even the tiniest weed will not slip through. The fibrous root system simply won’t let it through.
Isn't it quite fat?
One day the wind brought to us the specific smell of manure. What's happened? The neighbor doesn't seem to welcome you. Curiosity overpowered my sense of tact and I went to look. I see a neighbor scooping something out of a large barrel with a liter mug, adding it to a bucket of water, and watering her plantings. She asked what kind of stink.
It turned out to be a mess. Now we call this liquid liquid green fertilizer. Hence the smell. Anyone who has ever tried to prepare such a mixture will not forget the aroma. But the most important thing is that from such feeding the plants are dying right before our eyes. They don't care about amber; the composition is much more important. And a properly prepared fertilizer contains all the most necessary microelements, and in an easily digestible form. Grab the recipe, your neighbor won’t mind:
- 100 liters of water
- 0.5 kg raw yeast
- 1 liter old jam
- any fresh herb, 10 kg
All this stuff is placed in a suitable container, mixed well and left in the sun for 5-7 days. Grandma told me to cover it with a lid. Not from the stench, “maybe you’ll be patient.” In order “to prevent the birds from getting poisoned, they come to drink.”
After a week of infusion, the solution is mixed with ordinary water in a ratio of 1 to 10, and the plantings are watered. You can even just spray directly on the foliage.
But, this is not only effective feeding. The bacteria living in this mixture have a very beneficial effect on the overall fertility of the soil. We already know this. And then we didn’t think about it, it helps and okay.
When I asked whether it would be easier to bring and spread manure around the site, the answer was: “Look at my garden. But won’t it be quite fat?” Yes, it was much fatter when the cabbage did not grow less than 12 kg. And from 5 meters of the bed there are 4 buckets of potatoes, the size of an adult fist, or even larger.
So don't discount old people. Even before, without any science or experiment, they knew how to make the soil fertile. Therefore, they kept large vegetable gardens, because cultivating such land is easy and pleasant. Of course, this is not a matter of just one season. But if you wish, you can grow a garden on stones. You just need to work a little harder. Just don't quit what you started. Keep working, and your plot will reward you like a king.
How to make the soil fertile? First you need to realize that this is a principle of agriculture, and not a machine of manure or humus. Still, it is very difficult to abandon the usual stereotypes drilled into us from childhood. But you can try it first on a small plot of land. And only then dance from the results. It is quite possible that at first you will be such a laughing stock for your neighbors. But in the fall they will have to change roles with you. Then look who laughs last.
Video: how to enrich the soil
We look up to nature
What to do? Of course, to grow, groom, cherish the inhabitants of the soil, and loosen, just loosen the soil so as not to harm them! Instead of a shovel, you will use a Fokin flat cutter. It has a pointed end, so you will use it to make furrows, first along, then across, deepening it into the soil by about 5 cm. Then, with the flat part of the flat cutter, lightly dig up this layer.
If necessary, you can rake it out. By the way, a rake can also be used to loosen the top layer of soil. The best choice for such surface cultivation of the soil is a manual cultivator, which, in addition to wheels loosening the soil, also has a cutting plate.
You can do this work with a sharpened hoe, a Strizh weeder and other devices. There are quite a few of them on sale now. The only requirement for such tools is that they must be very well sharpened. And don't believe in self-sharpening. The tool must be sharpened before each use, then the work will go smoothly. These tools should not be buried deeper than 5 cm into the soil, and they should not mix the layers. You can dig with a regular shovel, but only superficially.
Don't worry about the roots, they will find their way into the deeper layers, penetrating into the microchannels left by the root system of the previous occupants (if you didn't destroy them by digging). So the roots do not need deep digging.
Why is humus needed? Humus is the most valuable component of any soil. It is created by earthworms and soil microorganisms. Therefore, a completely reliable indicator of soil fertility is the number of earthworms living in it. The more there are, the more fertile the soil. The more humus, the darker the color of the soil.
Humus- complex organo-mineral formation. Its main part is humic acids and fulvates.
Humic acids“glue”, like synthetic glue, the smallest lumps of soil into aggregates that do not stick together. Thus, a soil structure is created in which between these units water and air easily penetrate into the soil thickness.
Fulvates carry a negative electrostatic charge on their surface and attract positively charged ions of chemical elements found in the soil solution, in particular nitrogen. That is, they help saturate the soil with minerals.
One square meter of soil 25 cm thick (topsoil) weighs about 250 kg. If there is about 4% humus in the soil, then these 250 kg contain only 10 kg. During the season, plant roots destroy about 200 g of humus from each square meter of arable layer. To restore it, you will need to annually add a bucket (5 kg) of humus per meter of soil surface. If, instead of humus, you add a green mass of green manure, weeds, grass, leaves or other unrotted organic matter, then their amount should be increased three times.
Sometimes the question is asked: Where is it better to add organic matter - to the top layer of soil or to the bottom? It is more economically feasible to apply it to the lower layer of soil. That is, to build up the fertile layer of soil from below. At the depth of the shovel bayonet, 6 times more humus is formed than in the upper layer with the same amount of added organic matter. But digging is only permissible in a layer of 5 cm. What to do?
If your soil is very poor(gray color indicates that the soil contains only 2% humus), the first digging should be done as follows. Mark the bed. To avoid trampling the soil, place a board across the bed, moving it away from the edge to the width of a spade bayonet. Standing on the board, remove the soil and pile it near the end of the bed. Use a fork to loosen the bottom layer. Fill the dug trench with a green mass of weeds or grass clippings and move the board further. Now, without turning over, place the soil removed from the next trench onto the green mass. Loosen the bottom layer in the second trench with a fork, put the green mass into it, move the board even further, and so continue until the end of the bed. When the last trench is filled with green mass, transfer to it the soil that was removed from the very first trench and piled near the end of the bed. The most important thing in such digging is not to turn the soil over. In all subsequent years, you will add green mass of weeds or sawdust, leaves and other organic matter to the surface of the bed. Then it will need to be lightly sprinkled with earth or dug up together with the top layer of soil to a depth of no more than 5 cm. This work is best done in late summer or early autumn, so that by spring most of the organic matter has time to rot.
But what if you have solid clay or heavy loam on your site? Moreover, don’t dig. Books often recommend adding sand and organic matter to clay soils. But anyone who has done this knows that after a season the sand goes deeper, and clay comes to the surface again. You will need to annually add a bucket of sand and a bucket of organic matter to every square meter of soil surface for 12-15 years, until finally the land becomes more or less suitable for a vegetable garden. Scientists' calculations show that to sand just one square meter of clay soils, you will need about 150 kg of sand! And this is only for one square meter! Why do you need such hard labor?
If you have very dense soil, build up the fertile layer on top. That is, put compost on the site of the future bed. So that you are not embarrassed by its unpresentable appearance, fence the beds with some slats, poles and sow peas, nasturtiums or climbing decorative beans in front of them, or plant beans, sunflowers, corn, and cosmos around the perimeter. Only leave a passage on the side you can't see to fill the pile.
So, without humus in agriculture, “neither here nor here.” It will have to be systematically increased, as nature does, by introducing organic matter. Moreover, every year the plants themselves return more to the soil than they take out of it.
The easiest way to grow humus is through a compost heap. To speed up the process of humus formation, you should use live bacteria, which are contained in the preparations "Vozrozhdenie" and "Baikal EM-1". This should be done in mid-summer.
Why does the land become impoverished? This is a frequently observed phenomenon. The soil stops "working". She is “on strike” and her harvests are falling. And then we begin to increase the dose of mineral fertilizers, buy or store manure. But after a while everything “returns to normal.” What's the matter?
Nature does not sow green manure, does not apply manure in such quantities as we do, but from year to year it grows huge forests and meadows, and everything is in order. But the fact is that plants build up organic mass much more than what they remove from the soil by destroying humus. That is, they do not deplete, but on the contrary, increase the fertility of the land. How do they succeed, and why can’t we?
Have you seen nature raking and carrying away, and even burning fallen leaves and dead plants? What are we doing? Not only do we remove the nutrients stored in the fruits from the soil with the harvest. And we don’t return the loot. We also remove fallen leaves and plant debris, interfering with the normal process of humus restoration. Where does it come from if there is no source material? In addition, with endless digging we destroy the natural structure of the soil. And in such soil there are practically no inhabitants. Notice that barren soil looks like gray, lifeless dust.
Usually to improve soil fertility It is recommended to sow the field with green manure or leave it to “walk”, that is, not to sow anything on it. It, of course, will immediately be overgrown with weeds, which, like specially sown green manure, are recommended to be dug up after a year.
Beginning gardeners will ask: What are green manures?
These are plants on the roots of which live bacteria that can take nitrogen from the air and accumulate it in the soil. The green above-ground mass, being dug up along with the soil, will introduce into it the organic matter necessary for the life of microorganisms.
Peas, alfalfa, vetch, clover, and lupine can be sown as green manure. It is also recommended to add bacterial preparations AMB, Azotobacterin, Phosphorobacterin, Nitragin. That is, we are invited to populate the field with bacteria. The “walking” field is by no means kept fallow, that is, “naked.” It is populated by plants, and, oddly enough, the tired, depleted soil does not become tired further, but is perfectly restored.
Why does it get tired and exhausted in our country, but not in nature? Yes, because she doesn’t dig and doesn’t take anything away from her fields. Everything returns back to the ground, and with high interest. So let's follow nature, take less, give more. How to do this?
Do not remove weeded weeds from the beds, from under bushes and trees, but leave them lying between the rows and under the plantings. Don't worry, they will disappear in a couple of weeks because the worms will drag them down their tunnels into the ground. Until then, they will serve as a mulching material for some time, that is, they will cover open areas on the soil and prevent moisture from evaporating from the surface and preventing the soil structure from collapsing. Do not remove the roots and above-ground parts of plants after harvesting. Leave everything in the garden beds.
If you are afraid of pathogens on these plant residues, then treat the beds directly over them with the drug “Fitosporin”. The live predator bacterium contained in this preparation will “eat” the causative agents of any fungal and bacterial diseases during the fall. It, unlike the bacteria mentioned above, dies not at one degree of frost, but at minus 20 degrees. If the winter turns out to be warm, then it will safely overwinter in the soil and will continue to serve as a nurse in your beds. And if the winter does turn out to be harsh, there is usually a lot of snow, and under this coat she has a great chance of surviving.
Of course, pests that overwinter under plant debris cannot be destroyed in this way, but they can also be dealt with if you take good care of your pets.
So, the reason for the impoverishment of the soil lies in unreasonable land use. If all the time you only remove nutrients from the soil along with the harvest, then there will be nothing left in it. We have to return it someday.
G. Kizima, gardener
One of Jules Verne's novels describes how the heroes ended up on a desert island, practically devoid of any vegetation. And they were able to survive on it and even grow vegetable gardens that supplied them with herbs and a wide variety of vegetables. And this is provided that initially, in fact, there was no soil on the island. How did they do it? Algae and ashes helped, from which the most fertile soil was created. True, it is also worth noting that, in addition to everything else, the Julierne Robinsons also had a whole set of the best seeds, as well as the necessary tools (as, in fact, usually happens in such novels).All this means that many novice gardeners find themselves in approximately similar conditions, because buying seeds and tools is not a problem, but with soil it is more difficult. In most cases, unless, of course, you have a house in a village where manure has been applied for centuries, what is understood as soil in our gardens is in reality difficult to call soil. At best this is sod-podzolic and in addition also acidic soil, on which even woodlice will not grow (there is, of course, no talk about cucumbers). The whole point is that it was customary to assign so-called gardening partnerships inconvenience . They most often were swamps or rocky areas, practically devoid of soil and, at best, covered with 3-4 centimeters podzol- almost the most infertile soil in existence. If it comes about the swamp, then I can’t say anything good here, since, in my opinion, there is no prospect at all in the swamp, because even by improving the soil, it is impossible to get rid of the negative influence of high water levels and lower temperatures with all the ensuing consequences. But if you got it area with turf lightly covering ordinary rocks(with other advantages in the form of an ecologically clean area and good lighting), then, if desired, it is quite possible to turn it into a small fairy-tale garden with the most fertile soil. At least that’s what happened in my area, although, of course, it took years and years of hard labor.
Two ways to create soil
As you know, the best are considered chernozem soils, which have naturally high fertility, because on black soil everything grows by leaps and bounds. Here, in the Urals, unfortunately, such soils cannot be found - they simply do not exist in nature. Here they prevail peat or soddy-podzolic soils, which without cultivation are completely unsuitable for growing vegetable crops.Therefore, the first and main task in this case is the task - form on its acres sufficient for the development of plants topsoil. In other words, create fertile land from practically nothing. Some resort to the simplest method - they bring ready soil, which is not so difficult now, since agricultural enterprises sell used soil from industrial greenhouses to those who want it. But, on the one hand, how much will you bring, and on the other hand, how much will it cost? However, the financial costs cannot be compared with the costs you will later have to go to in order to get rid of the consequences of such rash actions. Believe me, the brought soil, despite the fact that it seems so black and crumbly, is not of particular value to you. Moreover, it can even be harmful, since with such soil whole hordes of pests and pathogens can come to the site, which will make you instantly recognize all the negative delights of gardening life.
It is much wiser to go the other way - try to create the ground yourself, introducing increased doses of organic and mineral fertilizers in parallel with liming of the soil. True, if there is practically no soil, then, of course, you cannot plant plants even with manure flavored with mineral fertilizers and lime. And having such a quantity of manure (or chicken droppings) is completely unrealistic. In addition, manure itself does not rot so quickly, and to speed up this process, as well as to obtain a loose soil structure, it requires the addition of other types of organic matter.
A quick way to form a fertile layer
I found myself in exactly the same conditions many years ago. I did not import soil, guessing about the possible consequences of such a decision. There was only one way out: get a humus layer due to the huge mass of plant residues mixed with a limited amount of manure and lime. Absolutely anything can be used as plant residues - crushed bark, sawdust, thin branches of bushes, used brooms, straw, mown grass, leaf litter, reeds and kitchen waste.At the same time, if we recall the classic treatises on vegetable growing, all such waste is recommended first compost. As you know, high-quality compost is obtained within three years. To implement this process, it is usually customary to have three compost heaps with different periods of waste disposal. These heaps should be shoveled and moistened periodically, and finally, after the third year, you can begin to use the compost from the first heap.
True, this process can now be accelerated, since composting accelerators have become available on the market. As a result, as their instructions promise, compost can be obtained in just one year. However, I didn’t want to and couldn’t wait three years (at that time there were no composting accelerators), because, like all beginning gardeners, I wanted to have a harvest right away. So I completely abandoned traditional composting of plant scraps and still don’t regret it. And in the end I was able to obtain the required fertile soil. Moreover, from the very beginning I had a small but reliable harvest of vegetables and green crops. And high ridges in two versions helped with this: ordinary elongated ones (that is, reminiscent of ordinary ridges) and small round ones (my personal invention).
High (hilly) ridges
High bed method- this is one of the options rapid soil formation, which is suitable for growing cabbage, green crops (dill, lettuce, leaf parsley, onions) and onion sets. All of these plants can be grown, even with a minimum amount of available soil, on high ridges formed directly on the turf. And as a result, by the fall you will be able not only to get some harvest, which gives you every right to call yourself a gardener, but also the soil that is so lacking on the site.Theoretically, there are two types of high beds: with sides and without them - the so-called “hilly” beds. At the first stages of development of the site, only the second option is possible, since even with the presence of boards, permanent ridges cannot be formed, because the site has not yet been leveled, and there is simply no time to arrange the sides. Therefore, place any available wood waste directly on the turf in layers: chopped branches, wood chips, bark. Next, lay down layers of leaves, lime, grass clippings, manure and sawdust. It is advisable to add a layer of peat. Once again, sprinkle everything on top with a layer of leaves and lime, add a handful of complete mineral fertilizer. Then comes the last layer - a layer of soil, if you have enough of it. If not, then holes or rows are made (depending on the crop). Naturally, the above option is not a dogma, and the composition of the mound bed may vary depending on the currently available organic matter. It is possible to use pond or river silt, algae, straw, chopped reeds, bark and other organic matter in its composition. It is possible to form high ridges only on the basis of leaves alone, flavored with mineral fertilizers and lime. However, it should be borne in mind that fallen leaves contain very few nutrients. Therefore, in this option, weekly feeding of planted crops with intensive organic fertilizers (“Giant”, “Breadwinner”, “Ideal”, etc.) becomes even more relevant.
In any case, after final preparation of the beds, a small amount of soil will be needed either to fill the holes when planting cabbage seedlings or to fill the rows when planting green crops and onions. Then the ridges are intensively moistened and green vegetables (dill, lettuce, leaf parsley) are sown on them, or cabbage seedlings, onions and onion sets are planted. With further care, it is worth keeping in mind that high ridges dry out quickly, so you need to pay great attention to watering.
Round mini-beds
This version of mini-beds, which can also be formed directly on a layer of turf, are ideal for growing pumpkins and zucchini. Each bed is formed from a bucket of turf, a bucket of manure, several handfuls of sawdust - the bottom layer will be untouched turf, then manure. Make a hole in the manure in the form of a large hole and sprinkle everything thickly with sawdust. Then pour half a bucket of forest soil or soil from the site into the hole and flavor it with a handful of complex fertilizer.Such beds are placed at some distance from each other so that the plants have enough space. Then they are all watered with water and covered with film (each pile with its own piece of film). The film must be carefully pressed down with stones so that the wind does not blow away. In the middle of the heap bed, you need to cut a round hole in the film, into which you will then plant one zucchini or pumpkin plant. I can guarantee that if you do everything correctly, you will have a good harvest in the first year. True, you will have to feed zucchini and pumpkins several times a season with complex fertilizers and ash, and also water them as needed.
By autumn, the turf under the heaps in most cases rots, which means that digging it up will be much easier. In addition, you already have a certain layer of soil formed due to rotted heaps and rotted turf.
What to do in the first autumn
If your site is a fairly flat surface, then you are in luck. In this case, having destroyed the improvised ridges and leveled the surface with a rake, it will be possible to begin regular digging. But here there are no special nuances: you dig, remove protruding stones and roots of perennial weeds that clearly do not want to rot. And then, taking into account that your soil layer is still very small, you again form the same high ridges - it is quite possible that most of them will be able to be placed in a permanent place.If your site is on a hill, then everything will be much more complicated: you will have to think about terraces and create supporting walls for the intended terraces. For the first time, you can erect temporary supporting walls with dry masonry from ordinary stones pulled out during the digging process. After this, on each of the terraces it is necessary to level the soil, destroying the beds, and then carry out the usual digging. And then again form high ridges for planting next season, but on terraces.
In addition, in the fall it is advisable to prepare planting areas for currants, gooseberries and raspberries. To do this, you need to dig holes in the dug up fertile layer - they should be small (down to rocky soil or clay), and pile hills on top of them according to the principle of mound ridges. At the top of the hills you will need to add at least half a bucket of normal soil. Next spring, you can plant the purchased plants in the center of each of the hills; you should not plant them in the fall, since the bushes on the hills may freeze in winter. Over the next summer, you will have to think about filling the still empty space between the mounds with berry plants with emerging organic matter, so that by autumn the bushes are no longer located on the mounds, but on a flat surface. Then next winter the plants will no longer freeze, and when the roots of the bushes go beyond the initially formed hills, fertile soil will already be waiting for them there, which has managed to form from the embedded organic matter.
Natalia Gerasimova
Summary of OD in the preparatory group “Soil is a living earth. Who creates the soil?
Completed: teacher of MADOU TsRR d/s No. 110, Kaliningrad Gerasimova N. E.
TARGET:
Introducing children to the concept of " soil"based on experiments, its composition and value for all inhabitants of the flora and fauna Earth.
TASKS:
1) Cognitive and research, to develop the skill of experimental activities;
2) Communication; teach children to think, formulate and summarize the results of experiments, and interact with each other;
3) Speech and games: teach to communicate in the process of ecological play, encourage the development of imagination, develop the ability to express one’s thoughts; instill a caring attitude towards nature in the process of basic work activity;
4) Motor: provide the opportunity to actively move through alternating types activities: conversation, experiments, physical exercises, working with a model" soil- relationship with others, role-playing games, work activities;
5) Perception of folklore: proverb about earth.
EQUIPMENT:
PC and presentation "Composition soil", "poster diagram composition soil", For experiments: samples soil, glasses of water, magnifying glasses, leaf samples, proverbs, for games: leaves, cups with earth(according to the number of children, headbands with a picture of a tree - 2 pcs., and with a picture of an earthworm - 2 pcs., a hoop - 4 pcs., 8 watering cans.
Progress of the lesson:
Caregiver: - Nature has an amazing pantry, you put a handful of grain in it in the spring, and by autumn you will take a whole bag. A bucket of potatoes in this pantry turns into ten buckets. A handful of seeds becomes a scattering of cucumbers and tomatoes, carrots and beets, bunches of radishes and dill. - What do you guys think, what is this? (answer Earth, soil) .
Today we will talk to you about soil, we will find out what it consists of, who lives in it, and how we can preserve it.
What is it soil?
What do you think children? (children's answer)
Teacher: - You know guys, but it turns out Earth exists for millions of years. Once upon a time, long ago on there was no such soil on earth, as now, there were no plants. Seas and oceans arose, mountains and volcanoes appeared and then collapsed under the influence of heat, water and cold, and as a result clay, sand and other minerals appeared, and then
plants and animals appeared. And now tens of millions of years later the planet The earth took on this form, to which you and I are accustomed and now we see such soil.
DISPLAY OF MULTIMEDIA PRESENTATION "COMPOSITION SOILS".
Of course you're right soil is earth. We are used to calling it that by the name of our planet. Earth. We all walk on earth. In dry weather we grumble that there is a lot of dust, and in rainy weather we grumble that it is too dirty. But dust and dirt are not just Earth. Under our feet soil- this is the correct name. She waters and feeds the plants in the warm season, when all nature blooms, and then the flowers turn into fruits (spring, summer, but this warm period is replaced by the cool season, which brings us gifts - autumn, and the moment comes when the trees begin to shed leaves, preparing for winter, they cover their nurse - land(or whatever they call it correctly soil) a thick blanket of dry leaves: yellow, red, orange, and we can also see fruits that have fallen on land: acorns, nuts, apples, pears, many of them are already covered with brown spots of rot. And they have one road, as the people say proverb: "From lands have come, V they will leave the earth".
What does this mean? (children's answers).
The point is that there is only soil there where plants grow and vice versa, plants themselves are a source of material for the structure soil.
The secret is that all these fallen leaves and eyelids rot, and various underground inhabitants invisible to our eyes also participate in this. - Who remembers what animals are involved in creating humus? (children's answers).
What do you think it consists of? soil? (children's answers).
That's right kids the soil is made of sand, clay, humus, in there is water in the soil, air. Now we will test this with experiments.
EXPERIENCE No. 1. IN there is air in the soil. Many animals from the underground world breathe it. Take a glass of water and throw a lump into it soil. - What conclusion can be drawn based on the results of the experiment. Conclusion: we see bubbles rising to the top. And this means that in there is air in the soil.
EXPERIENCE No. 2. Compound soil. We post soil in a glass of water. After a while we will see that sand has settled at the bottom of the glass, the water on top has become cloudy due to clay, and debris is floating on the surface, plant roots - this is humus. Conclusion: soil It contains humus, sand, and clay.
EXPERIENCE No. 3. We also said that in there is water in the soil That's why plants grow. -Where does it come from? soil? (children's answers).
That's right kids. Water enters soil when it rains or during watering. It penetrates deep and remains in the free spaces between particles soil.
Let's take a spirit lamp and heat it up land, covering the form with glass, and look at the glass. Conclusion: on the glass we see droplets of water that have evaporated as a result of calcination soil, which means you can live there.
Please tell me which ones soil Do you know the inhabitants? (children's answers).
Who lives under earth?
Soil provides shelter to many plants and animals. So good they get along together. Look how they live and help each other. Plants grow in soil, take nutrients from her. And the time comes - autumn, when plants: trees, shrubs, herbs, flowers fall, losing leaves and fruits, and then the amazing work of the invisible world of animals begins, hidden under a layer of leaves and in earth(story about processing leaves, so humus is created, which provides plants with many nutrients.
Today it’s cloudy, but a cheerful song about the sun invites you and me to relax a little.
PHYSICAL "RADIANT SUN".
Well done, what do you think? soil Is it only needed by plants? (children's answers). Let's go to the poster and see why it's important soil and for whom? Conversation at the poster.
Well, it's time to play the game. Now we will see how the leaves turn into soil.
GAME "TREES AND WORMS".
Children are divided into 2 teams. Each team has its own “worm” and soya “tree”. At one end of the room, place two hoops on the floor on the same line, but at a distance. These will be the “holes” of the worms. Each team selects a child to play the role of an earthworm. He stands in a circle, and here, in the circle on the floor, there are cups with earth. At the opposite end of the room, place two more hoops for children, which will act as trees. These children also stand in a circle, holding leaves in their hands. Children have appropriate headbands on their heads. The remaining participants stand one after another. At the command of the presenter "Autumn" - the tree children give the leaf to their participant, who runs to the worm and exchanges it for a glass of earth. Then he returns with it to the tree and gives it back. Team members repeat their actions until the last participant brings earth for your tree.
Today in class you were introduced to the concept soil. Please remember what this is? What does it consist of, who lives in it? (children's answers).
How can we save soil for these creatures?
What can we do?
What useful things have we learned today? (children's answers)
Do you know guys, we weren’t in the Winter Garden for 2 days, and the soil has dried out these days, because there are such big plants growing here, they drank all the water, I suggest you do a good deed - water soil, and she will water the plants. What do you think they would tell us? soil and the plants of the Winter Garden, if they could talk? After all, we care about them?
What proverbs about earth you know?
Without a master the earth is an orphan.
IN you can’t lay down the earth and you can’t take it from the earth.
Where not land, there is no grass.
The earth is the nurse.
And now, I suggest you sketch one of the “underground inhabitants” that you liked the most. You can draw a garden or a field producing crops. Your imagination has no limits. You are so great, you worked very well today.
Black soil, black soil, fertility... And it dries out into stone. One year after mulching with hay, the spring was very loose, but with mulch there was tension.
What can you use to loosen it? Some advise adding sand and peat. I don’t know about sand, but peat... The soil is already acidic, why voluntarily acidify it additionally?
I read some more tips:
High soil density can be caused by high sodium content. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to exclude liquid humate fertilizers, which contain sodium. Adding compost or manure, limestone flour or peat will help increase the looseness of the soil.
To make the soil loose, I would add sunflower husks, and if you want to have depleted and acidic soil, then add sand and peat.
- “In the fall you sow the rye, in the spring you dig it up as late as possible and that’s it.” Well, I’m wary of rye, but in general green manure should help. Although - there is a big discussion about green manure and whether they are beneficial
It helps a lot (if possible) to bring in a couple of humus machines, add buckwheat husks, add sawdust and sand to the ground. One of my friends does this - after weeding, she buries them along the paths, and the next year she makes beds on them.
Use peat, compost or rotted manure; it is also good to add ash or lime. You lay it all out on the future bed and carefully dig it up with a shovel, and then shake it all out again with a pitchfork. That's all. In the fall, after harvesting the super harvest, you can add more peat and ash to the garden bed and again gently shake the soil with a pitchfork, picking out any debris. In the spring, all that remains is to loosen it with a pitchfork and you can plant again.
Humus, mulch, green manure, plants. residues through the shredder. The earth became like fluff.
He brought everything into the beds: sand. manure, peat, ash, compost, leaves, pine needles, mowed grass. I watered it with the biological product "Revival". As a result of many years of effort, soil appeared in the beds instead of clay. In recent years, I have been using another method: I simply take lumps of clay out of the garden bed and dump them outside the site in a dump.
Local hotheads brought sawdust to the potato beds by dump truck. The ridge was dug up with sawdust. After this, there was no potato harvest at all for 3 years.
I decided to use sawdust last spring. I did as the experts recommended: I added mineral fertilizers to the sawdust: a lot of nitrogen and little phosphorus and potassium. The reduction in potato yield in these 2 experimental beds was very noticeable: approximately 2 times. This season, the restoration of the yield of these 2 beds began.
[I soaked sawdust in a urea solution and laid it on the paths. In the fall everything was loosened, the beds were laid out in a new way]
To increase fertility [on clay], I would do this (preparing the beds): remove the top layer of fertile soil down to the clay, pour an infusion of compost and manure over the clay, and add baker's yeast to it at the rate of 20 grams per bucket of water + a third of a glass of jam. It turns out to be a “lake”, then I take a crowbar and make depressions in the clay at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. And we get it - yeast getting into the clay begins to loosen the clay, releasing carbon dioxide, and the formed cavities are filled with a nutrient medium of diluted organic matter. And so we get a more structured soil
With my soil [granite and granite screenings +8 KAMAZ chernozem] (same technology on sandy soil) I make similar “lakes” only instead of yeast I add closter (I make it from flour)
As for the potato harvest, it loves warmth, long daylight hours, and loose soil rich in potassium. (potato tops contain 30-40% potassium)
If you invite earthworms as rippers, they will work almost for free. Well, just food waste, grass and maybe a little manure. I got some work done.
The book "Ploughman's Madness" is about the cultivation of such a site
