When and how best to plant zucchini for seedlings, its planting in open ground, care. When is it better to plant seedlings of zucchini and how to help her take root in the open field? How do zucchini grow

This early ripening crop bears fruit throughout the summer. The plant is unpretentious, but requires care. Planting and cultivation is carried out on open ridges; for an early harvest, seedlings are planted in greenhouses. In this article, we will look at how to properly plant a zucchini in open ground, as well as how to care for it at home and how to feed it during the entire growing season.

Start planting seeds in the ground when the soil warms up to +12 degrees, not earlier than mid-May. In cold soil, the seeds will not germinate, they will rot and die. Therefore, the landing is left until warmer weather. In late night frosts, tender sprouts will freeze. Planting zucchini seeds for seedlings is carried out at will, as the fruits have time to ripen and are planted immediately with seeds to the depth of the soil.

You can do this at the beginning of May (for the middle lane), having previously spilled the holes with warm water. The sowing site is covered with a plastic 5-liter transparent canister with a cut-off neck. It turns out a mini greenhouse for each plant. Do not forget that planting vegetables in the ground is significantly different.

After the onset of stable heat and the absence of night frosts, the canister is removed and the seeds can be grown further.

Proper preparation of beds and planting seeds at home

It is best to prepare the ridges in the fall. When digging, rotted manure or compost is introduced, a full range of fertilizers - superphosphate, potassium salt, ammonium nitrate. If necessary, please let us know in advance.

Where and which side to plant the seeds? Zucchini can also be sown on compost heaps. Loose, humus-rich soil is a good place for this crop.

Do not plant zucchini next to a pumpkin. Over-pollination will reduce the yield of both crops.

It is enough to loosen the bed prepared since autumn in the spring and make holes in it. The bush at the zucchini is voluminous, planted at a distance of 0.5-0.8 meters. The seeds are treated with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate, ash or nitroammofoska, holding for 20 minutes. Then washed with water. This will protect the seeds from diseases and ensure friendly germination.

2-3 seeds are placed in the hole, in case one does not sprout. When shoots appear, leave one seedling, pinch off the rest.

Planting zucchini seeds in open ground in soil with ash

Care during the growing season

Zucchini loves warmth and moisture. In dry weather, they are watered once a week with water, not colder than +22 degrees. With mass growth of fruits - every three days. Up to two liters of water is poured under each plant. Do not water before harvesting so that the taste is not affected.

The culture does not tolerate moisture on the leaves. Watered under the root from a watering can without a sprayer. After that, spud and mulch.

A large bush and large fruits require a lot of nutrition. Fertilizing begins after the appearance of true leaves and continues throughout the fruiting period. Fertilizers are best applied in liquid form. Most of all he loves organic. Foliar top dressing has a positive effect on the development of the vegetable. Spraying the bush every 10 days with a fertilizer solution can significantly increase the yield.

Weeds are only dangerous until they grow in the future, they simply will not be able to develop under a spreading crown.


How can you feed and fertilize zucchini?

What fertilizers are used for the plant, we list them:

  • Mineral.
  • Organic.
  • Fertilizers from improvised means.

Mineral fertilizers

For the development of this crop, a complete complex fertilizer is used in the following composition: 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate, double superphosphate, urea dissolves in 10 liters of water. After complete dissolution, water under the root system at 1.5 liters per plant.

Nitrogen cause the green mass of the plant to grow. Apply in spring and summer. Closer to autumn, their use is undesirable. These are urea, ammonium, calcium and sodium nitrate, ammonium sulfate.

Phosphoric help fruits ripen faster, reduce the growing season. These are superphosphate, double superphosphate, phosphorus flour.

Potash increase the resistance of plants to a lack of moisture and heat. Increase resistance to diseases and pests. There are potassium sulfate, potassium chloride, potassium salts.

Magnesium and iron-containing include magnesium oxide, boron, iron. Increase fruit yield and quality. Magnesium contributes to soil deoxidation. It is better to fertilize in the fall according to a certain scheme, indicated in the instructions.

It is very convenient to use ready-made complex fertilizers. They contain the necessary chemical elements in percentage terms. Azofoska, nitrophoska, diammophosa include phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium in a state of easy absorption for plants.

Microadditives are very important for the development of plants: boron, molybdenum, manganese, copper. They require a small amount, they are added to the composition of the complex.


Carbamide - a mineral fertilizer used to feed zucchini

organic folk fertilizers

organic- an important component in the nutrition of zucchini. They include the main elements - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, trace elements, vitamins. All this is easily digestible. So you can feed the zucchini at any time.

Manure. Organics of animal origin. Not very nutritious food. Improves soil structure. The simultaneous application of mineral fertilizers and manure improves the absorption of mineral fertilizers.

Humus. Overripe manure. Improves the condition and composition of the soil. Assimilate after making under the bush in a short time.

Compost. Obtained after the decomposition of plant and kitchen waste. Its maturation lasts at least three years. Used for top dressing, mulching.

bird droppings. Contains all the necessary components, the most valuable fertilizer from manure. It takes time to be ready to apply under crops. When fresh, it is caustic and can burn roots and leaves.

Peat. Makes the soil lighter, nourishes. Not every peat is useful. Acid peat is used in composts.


Other organic fertilizers and top dressings

For food, grass and leaves, yeast, ash, and food waste are used.

Green grass, especially nettle, is soaked in a barrel of water, kept for 10-15 days, and an herbal infusion is obtained. Strain it and get a fertilizer that is easily absorbed in a quick time.

Green herbal top dressing is obtained by digging and embedding green manure grown in the garden.

Stimulate the growth and development of zucchini, yeast supplements. Yeast can be added to herbal infusion or diluted in warm water with sugar.

Folk infusion of wood ash contains many trace elements, reduces the acidity of the soil. Does not contain nitrogen, it should be added additionally.

Pests and their control

Zucchini are subject to such diseases:

  • Gray rot.
  • Powdery mildew.
  • Fusarium wilt.

White and gray rot covers leaves, stems and ovaries with bloom, they soften and dry out. It's a fungus. Appears in cold, wet weather in dense plantings. Spores persist in the ground. To destroy the disease, spray with copper sulfate, zinc sulfur, urea solution. Do not thicken plantings, water with warm water.

Powdery mildew. The leaves are first affected, then the disease damages the entire plant. Absorbs plant nutrition, reduces yield. It spreads with fluctuations in temperature, excess nitrogen. It is treated by spraying with colloidal sulfur, manure infusion, potassium permanganate solution.

Fusarium wilt attacks the roots. With further development, it passes to the stem, and it dies. It can only be destroyed by completely replacing the soil.

All these diseases persist on plant debris and in the soil. Their appearance can be prevented by careful preparation of ridges, burning of plant residues, post-harvest processing, and crop rotation.

Powdery mildew Gray rot Fusarium

Insect pests for zucchini:

  • Melon aphid.
  • Spider mite.
  • Whitefly.

Larvae melon aphid hibernate on the remains of plants, in the spring they multiply rapidly. Stems and leaves are damaged, after which they dry out. Autumn cleaning of ridges, burning of plant debris will help prevent the invasion of insects. In summer, the plants are sprayed with an infusion of hot peppers, onions, potato tops, and powdered with tobacco dust.

spider mite small invisible pest. Inhabits the lower part of the leaf. Causes leaf spotting and drying out. Control measures are the same as with aphids.

whitefly forms a sticky sugar coating on the underside of the leaves. This is an environment for the formation of various fungi and plant diseases. The pest can be washed off with water, not allowing them to remain on the ground afterwards. With a large number of insects, treat the soil after harvesting with the insecticide "Commander".

Harvest and storage

Green fruits up to 25 cm long are considered the most delicious and healthy. They have a thin skin and small immature seeds. By removing zucchini in time, we help the formation and growth of new ovaries. In this case, we will have fresh greens all summer. From the end of August, we begin to make preparations for storage for the winter. We collect fruits with hard skin and a long stem for better storage. Harvest until frost.

Well-ripened zucchini can be stored in a cool room for 4-5 months until March.

Zucchini is an early ripening crop, the first harvest is obtained 20 days after flowering. Early harvest allows you to get fresh vitamins in early summer. The wide possibilities of their use make zucchini a popular crop among gardeners.

There is a legend very similar to the truth. Once upon a time, in ancient times, the coast of the Indian Ocean was inhabited by fishermen, and the only source of their food was the fish they caught. Many days they spent at sea, fighting against bad weather and storms. The women prayed tirelessly for the safe return of their husbands. One day, women's patience snapped and they turned to the gods with a request to give them a fruit as a gift, the flesh of which would be as tender and refined as fish meat. The gods heard them and gave people zucchini. Indeed, zucchini is not only a unique dietary product, but also has a very delicate taste. Today, you can find this vegetable in almost any garden. But is it so easy to grow this food of the gods?

How to plant zucchini

Despite the fact that you can meet zucchini in almost any garden, not every summer resident can grow them successfully. Planting this vegetable requires taking into account some features of site selection, soil and seed preparation, and the choice of various planting methods.

Choosing a landing site

The place for growing zucchini is of particular importance. Given that this vegetable is warm and light-loving, the site for planting it should be protected from the winds from the north and be sufficiently illuminated.

You can not grow zucchini every year in the same place, as well as after cucumbers, pumpkins and squash (at least 3 years). The best predecessors in this case are cabbage, beets, carrots, peas, tomatoes, potatoes, green and spicy crops.

Zucchini are demanding on soil fertility. Therefore, since autumn, the site is subject to deep digging (by 25–35 cm) without breaking clods, as well as refueling with organic matter. If the soil is acidic, it is lime. In spring, the soil is loosened with a rake, and organic and mineral fertilizers are applied, taking into account its composition.

Zucchini can be grown both in open and closed ground. But it must be borne in mind that this vegetable requires a lot of space - the distance between rows and in a row is 70 cm (although 40–50 cm is allowed for some varieties).

In open ground, it is recommended to use the so-called warm bed. It is made high, and raspberry, Jerusalem artichoke leaves, tops of carrots, beets, last year's grass, compost or humus are laid down under the digging. At the same time, it is recommended to cover the bed with planted plants until mid-June (depending on climatic conditions) with a film or non-woven shelters. During the day in good weather, the garden bed must be ventilated.

Preparing plant seeds for sowing

You can plant zucchini with dry seeds or seedlings.. Deciding on the choice of landing method is easy. If your goal is to get a crop as quickly as possible, then the seedling method will be optimal. But the fruits grown by seedlings have one drawback - they cannot be stored for a long time. Therefore, if you need to store these vegetables, then it is preferable to choose planting seeds in the ground. In both cases, pre-sowing seed preparation is important.

As preparatory procedures, it is recommended to freeze, warm and treat seeds.. These measures help to increase the resistance of plants to cold and disease. However, at present, on packages with seeds, you can find a warning from the manufacturer that they have already undergone such training, therefore, it is not necessary to repeat it.

Be sure to soak the seeds before planting in the ground, which is carried out in several stages:

  1. Warm up the bag with seeds on the battery, this will increase their germination. Discard empty and visually ugly seeds.
  2. Soak the seeds in warm water. When they swell, place them between layers of fabric (the use of gauze can lead to breaking off delicate roots). The optimum temperature for seed germination is 25 C.
  3. When the shoots are a few centimeters long (usually after 4-5 days), plant them in the soil.

The timing of planting germinated seeds directly into the ground may vary depending on climatic conditions. On average, these are the last days of May or the beginning of June. The optimum soil temperature is 10–12 C.

The soil must be watered before planting. 0.5 kg of humus and 2–3 seeds are placed in an earthen hole (depth 10–12 cm), then sprinkled with earth 3–4 cm and mulched with peat (2–3 cm) on top. Then the excess plants are thinned out.

Seedlings of this vegetable are prepared in late April - early May. Hatched seeds are traditionally placed in individual paper cups or peat pots filled with substrate. Interest is also aroused by alternative methods of obtaining seedlings in the so-called snails or rolled cigarettes.

Video: Planting zucchini seeds in a snail

After the appearance of sprouts, the first feeding of seedlings is carried out (0.5 tablespoons of superphosphate and urea per 1 liter of water). In addition, each plant should receive no more than 1.5 tbsp. spoons of this solution. The second is performed in 10–12 days. The composition of the solution is somewhat different - for 1 liter of water, 0.5 tbsp. spoons of ash and nitrophoska (1.5 tablespoons for each bush). For irrigation, only warm water is used - 100 ml for each plant every 4–5 days.

Transplanting seedlings into the ground is carried out after 25–30 days, when at least three leaves are formed. It is deepened into the ground to the cotyledon leaves. Before the onset of stable heat, planted seedlings are recommended to be covered with a film or non-woven materials.

Unconventional ways of planting and growing

Summer residents, who are faced with the problem of lack of free space on their site, have invented quite original ways of growing zucchini. Their unusualness lies in the fact that zucchini is planted not in the ground in the garden, but in various devices: bags, barrels, compost heaps. And there is also a vertical landing method.

Growing zucchini in bags is not difficult. To do this, use polyethylene (large garbage bags) or polypropylene bags (sugar, cereals are sold in such bags) with a volume of 100–120 liters. Organic residues, compost, sawdust are laid at the bottom and then sprinkled with earth. Several small holes are made in the bottom of the bag to avoid stagnant water. Zucchini is planted with seeds or seedlings, watered. In case of cold weather, cover with a cut plastic bottle. At the same time, the plant does not require special care and a significant amount of fertilizer.

Similarly, you can grow zucchini in 150–200 liter barrels.. A pipe (with a diameter of not more than 0.3 m) with small holes is installed vertically in the barrel in the center. Drainage in the form of cones or brushwood is laid at the bottom of the barrel. Then successively lay out layers of humus, hay, earth, a mixture of sawdust and peat, and, finally, the soil on which the zucchini will grow. Plants are planted in holes on both sides of the irrigation pipe, through which the plants are subsequently watered.

Zucchini can be grown even on the site of a compost heap containing the remnants of last year's hay, tops of vegetables, husks from grain. The decomposition of these products can be accelerated with the help of special microbiological solutions.

Video: Growing on a compost heap

https://youtube.com/watch?v=bVTIQ-tDgds

The vertical method of planting zucchini is suitable for climbing varieties of zucchini(for example, Profit F1, Ambassador F1). It consists in the fact that the lashes of the plant are launched along a trellis attached to the ground or a wall.

The approaches described above have a number of advantages. First of all, plants are much easier to care for. It also reduces the risk of plant damage by diseases and pests. In addition to saving space on the site, these "beds" are mobile - they can be moved from place to place. At the same time, the greenhouse effect that occurs inside the bags, barrels and compost heaps during the decay of organic residues contributes to the harvest at an earlier date. Another plus of these planting methods is that the fruits of zucchini always look attractive, because they do not come into contact with the surface of the earth.

Growing zucchini on the balcony

Growing zucchini at home is quite difficult, but possible. To do this, it is necessary that the balcony or loggia have a southern exposure and be protected from frost, since the zucchini is photophilous and afraid of frost. The best temperature for growing is above 16 C.

For each plant, a separate pot is allocated, with a volume of 10-15 liters of soil. The capacity for planting should be chosen high - 35–40 cm, because when the tap root reaches the barrier, the growth of the aerial part of the plant slows down. Humus can be used as soil, but be sure to provide drainage to avoid stagnant water (for example, expanded clay or gravel). It is necessary to arrange the pot so that no objects and structures create a shadow. It is also worth taking care of the support, to which the zucchini will be tied in the future.

Not all varieties of zucchini are suitable for growing on the balcony. It is better to give preference to bushy early-ripening hybrids (Kavili). You can sow the seeds immediately into the container, but it is better to pre-soak them in water for 3-4 days and plant the seed that has already hatched.

If the selected variety is not self-pollinating, it is necessary to provide insects with access to the balcony, and sprinkle the sprouts with a solution of honey. If there is no possibility for this, then you can pollinate the plant manually - with a brush, transfer pollen from male flowers to female ones.

It is necessary to water the plant regularly, under the root. During fruiting, watering is increased. And regular loosening of the soil will ensure sufficient oxygen supply. You can feed the zucchini with complex water-soluble fertilizers.

You can collect the fruits when they reach a length of 20–25 cm. It is important not to overexpose the fruits on the plant. This leads to a decrease in its productivity and early aging.

What varieties to choose for planting

There are two varieties of this vegetable: white-fruited zucchini and zucchini, having a more diverse color of fruits (yellow, green, variegated, striped). It is believed that zucchini are more resistant to diseases and enter the fruiting stage much earlier. They have a special yield, which is associated with the predominance of female flowers.

According to the ripening time, zucchini varieties are divided into:

  • Early ripe (super early). The fruits ripen 30-50 days after planting. Such varieties are suitable for growing in the Urals and Siberia.
  • Mid-season. Fruits are formed on the 50-60th day.
  • Late ripe. The fruits of these varieties are harvested in late August or autumn (more than 60 days after planting).

Giving preference to one or another variety of this vegetable, it must be taken into account that the difference in ripening time between varieties is insignificant, but it is strongly manifested in the yield of this vegetable. The most popular high-yielding varieties and hybrids are briefly described below.

Table: The most popular high-yielding varieties

VarietyRipening time, daysyieldFruit characteristics
40–45 17 kg per bushPale green cylindrical shape, average weight 0.5 kg
41–50 12 kg per bushSmooth green color, cylindrical shape. Weight 0.9 kg
40–48 12 kg / sq. mWhite, cylindrical, weight 0.6–0.9 kg
35–40 8 kg / sq. mWhite, smooth. Weight 0.6-0.9 kg. creamy pulp
60 9 kg / sq. mShort-cylindrical with ribs. Weight 0.7-1.3 kg
40–45 7–9 kg/sq. mCylindrical, white-green. Weight 0.3-0.4 kg
43–50 9 kg / sq. mLight green, slightly club-shaped. Weight 0.6–1 kg
Black handsome40–45 14–20 kg/sq. mDark green, almost black smooth. Weight 0.5–1 kg
38–46 9–12 kg/sq. mLight green with dark green stripes. Weight 0.5–1.2 kg

Photo gallery: The most productive varieties of zucchini

Zucchini Iskander F1

Zucchini White Bush F1
Zucchini Beloplodny
Zucchini Gribovsky 37
Zucchini Zebra
Zucchini Cavili F1
Zucchini Black handsome
Zucchini Nemchinovsky F1

When choosing a variety of zucchini, you should also not forget about the influence of such factors as:

  • resistance to low temperatures;
  • disease resistance;
  • the ability to self-pollinate;
  • features of transportation and storage;
  • the purpose of the fruit;
  • taste qualities of fruits.

Growing and care rules

In growing and caring for zucchini, they are not too whimsical. You just have to follow some rules.

  1. Watering is one of the determining factors for the full development of the plant and its fruits.. The watering regime depends on the stage of development of the zucchini. Before flowering, the sprouts are watered once every 5–7 days at the rate of 5 liters of water for each bush. At the fruiting stage, the intensity of watering is increased up to twice a week using the same volumes of water. It is important to remember that watering zucchini with cold water is impossible. The optimum water temperature for irrigation is 22-25 C.
  2. Top dressing of zucchini is carried out 2-3 times during the summer: the first - in the phase of 4–5 leaves with a solution of slurry or bird droppings; the second - at the stage of flowering and fruit formation with mineral fertilizers. It is important to remember that zucchini does not tolerate chlorine. Carefully read the composition of the fertilizers used.
  3. Bush care. In climbing types of zucchini, the main trunk is pinched when the buds appear, and the side trunks when they reach a length of 40 cm. In order to improve ventilation and illumination, it is recommended to remove the lower leaves of the plant.
  4. Soil care consists in loosening it and removing weeds. The first loosening is carried out immediately after planting seeds or seedlings. Subsequent loosening is carried out after rain or watering to prevent the formation of a soil crust. They help retain moisture and provide soil ventilation.
  5. Harvesting. The timing of fruit ripening depends on the variety of zucchini you choose. It is necessary to harvest regularly with a frequency of 2-3 days. It is important to remember that if you skip the harvest, the fruits outgrow and coarsen, and the growth of young ovaries is also delayed. This negatively affects the level of productivity.

What causes diseases of vegetables

Like other representatives of pumpkin crops, zucchini can be affected by pests and various diseases. This can negatively affect the degree of yield, the appearance of the fruit, or lead to the death of the plant. Therefore, it is very important to recognize the disease in time and take measures to eliminate it.

Consider what symptoms of disease damage you may encounter when growing zucchini:

Table: Signs and methods of dealing with major diseases

Signs of defeatNameThe reasonsFighting methods
Rounded powdery spots appear on the leaves, then the leaves turn brown and dry.powdery mildewSudden change in weather, high humiditySpraying plants with a 1% suspension of colloidal sulfur, the first time - at the first appearance of plaque spots, the second - after 15–20 days
The appearance of rounded or oval yellow-brown spots on the leaves, spots appear on the fruits, turning into darkening sores, the fruits become bitterAnthracnose (verdigris)High humidity and temperatureSpraying plants with 1% Bordeaux liquid, 0.2–0.3% suspension of 80% cineb, 0.4% copper oxychloride.
Leaves and lashes are covered with a white coating of mycelium, the affected areas become soft and slippery, the plant fades, the leaves dry outwhite rotCold wet weather, crowded plantingRemoval of affected plants, sprinkling with lime in places of their growth
The lower part of the stem and roots turn brown, the lower leaves turn yellow and witherroot rotLow soil temperature, watering the plant with cold water, applying large doses of fertilizersWatering with warm water, timely hilling
Angular oily spots on leaves, darkening later, ulcers and watery spots on fruitsbacteriosisWet warm weatherSpraying plants with 1% Bordeaux liquid
The leaves become wrinkled, swollen and variegated, yellowish depressions appear on the fruits.Mosaicviral diseaseThe affected plant is removed

These vegetables can also be attacked by dangerous pests: sprout flies, spider mites, melon aphids, wireworms, and bears. Methods of dealing with these insects are quite diverse:

  • spraying the affected plant with water and special solutions;
  • the creation of repellent structures with specific odors;
  • the creation of special baits that allow insects to accumulate in one place, and then destroy them.

Photo gallery: The main pests of zucchini

Germ fly larvae damage seeds and shoots of squash
Spider mite entangles leaves with small cobwebs
The melon aphid causes leaf curl
Wireworms and their larvae damage seeds, seedlings, young plants.
Medvedka damages seeds, roots and young shoots

Thus, when planting zucchini in your garden, remember the methods for preventing diseases and pests:

  • follow the rules of crop rotation (do not place zucchini every year in the same place and where cucumbers or pumpkins grew before);
  • follow the rules of watering (water the plant regularly under the root with warm water (22-25 C));
  • remove weeds and plant debris in a timely manner.

As you know, any disease is better to prevent than to treat later.

So, armed with the knowledge gained about the rules for growing zucchini, decide on the choice of varieties and method of planting this vegetable, demonstrate your diligence and patience, and you can enjoy the rich results of your work, eating the tender flesh of the food of the gods.

"Without labor and without charging, he laid his heavy barrel on our garden bed - a strong, ripe zucchini"

As you already understood, in this article we will talk about growing zucchini. This is perhaps one of the easiest vegetable crops to care for.

Even for beginner gardeners with growing zucchini there will be no problems and it is almost impossible to stay without a crop of zucchini.

Where did this vegetable come from and why is it so attractive to us?

A long time ago there was a small fishing village in the world.

When all the men of the village went to sea for a long fishing trip, their women turned to the Higher Powers with a prayer.

They asked to give them some kind of magical fruit, soft as fish meat, with a skin as strong as a tortoise shell.

And so that it has the color of the sea surface on a mystical moonlit night. The gods heard them and gave the fishermen a zucchini.

What is a zucchini

A strong vegetable is the closest relative. It differs from it in precocity and multiplicity.

Zucchini is an annual, heat-loving plant with powerful leaves, increased vegetative mass and an active and strong root system.

Where did he come from to us?

  • His homeland is the American continent. People have been growing marrows for over 4,000 years. In Europe, zucchini appeared only in the 16th century. The plant was originally ornamental. He was valued for his beautiful, bright flowers.

In Russia, they learned about it only in the middle of the 18th century, then there was a fashion for everything Italian. Imitating the Italians, our ancestors began to eat squash ovaries (young, week-old greens).

We still eat unripe zucchini (with the advent of seeds, this vegetable becomes much rougher in taste).

What is good zucchini

A pretty vegetable is rich in chemical composition: it stores a huge amount of vitamins, trace elements and mineral salts under a strong peel.

Zucchini is rich in pectins, antioxidants. By the way, this vegetable is also low-calorie (note to women!). Its calorie content is only 270 calories per kilogram.

Zucchini will help you:

  • Remove all radionuclides from the body.
  • Rejuvenate and slightly brighten the skin.
  • Get your metabolism in order.
  • Clear the blood of cholesterol.

By the way, it is best to cook zucchini in the oven and microwave (during heat treatment, its supply of antioxidants is destroyed).

You can also eat zucchini flowers. They are baked, cooked in rich soups, added to various salads.

So, we just need to start growing zucchini on our site.

The best varieties for the garden

When choosing seeds for a plot, be guided by the origin of the zucchini species. In the domestic market, zucchini varieties of domestic and foreign breeders are now represented in equal numbers.

◊ Domestic varieties. Ideal for growing in central Russia and in the north (where summer is short).

Our zucchini are more delicate in taste and richer in nutritional value. And they keep better and longer.

They are very good for conservation, in cooking and the famous squash caviar.

  • The best domestic varieties: White (ripening 35-40 days); White-fruited (ripening 36-44 days); Waterfall (ripening 42 days); Mountain (ripening 38-50 days); Gribovsky 37 (ripening 46-57 days); Pear-shaped (ripening 40-45 days); Delicacy (ripening 55-60 days); Long-fruited (ripening 45-55 days); Green bush (ripening 50-60 days); Karam 9908380 (ripening 41-45 days); Ball (maturing 50-55 days).

◊ Foreign varieties. They are best chosen for growing zucchini in the southern regions. These species have a longer growing season.

Imported varieties are mostly hybrids. They have a thinner skin and fewer seeds, stay longer on the bushes without overripe.

  • The best imported species: Belogor F1 (ripening 34-57 days); White Bush (ripening 40-45 days); Goldrush (ripening 49 days); Kavili (ripening 40-45 days); Lenutsa (ripening 38-43 days); Nero di Milano (ripening 36-61 days); Sangrum (ripening 40-45 days); Saute (ripening 45-50 days); Tivoli (ripening 100-120 days); Helena (ripening 41-45 days); Embessi (ripening 49-55 days).

◊ What is zucchini. Zucchini squash is a type of vegetable, but smaller in size. But its flowers and leaves are larger than those of a fellow.

Zucchini can be eaten raw, the color of its fruit is dark green (yellow or white in zucchini).

When growing zucchini squash, know that they are more pampered (they like more heat and moisture, they do not tolerate temperature fluctuations well). They also have fewer calories.

  • The best varieties of zucchini: Aeronaut (ripening 46 days); Genovese (ripening 36-61 days); Yellow-fruited (ripening 43-62 days); Zebra (ripening 38 days); Zolotinka (ripening 50 days); Kuand (ripening 52-61 days); Negro (ripening 38-40 days); Jade (ripening 53-58 days); Ronda (ripening 35-40 days); Tintoretto 9551387 (ripening 48-51 days); Zukkesha (ripening 45-51 days); Black handsome (ripening 40-45 days).

Zucchini planting and care

A strong vegetable will feel very good after radishes, carrots, onions, peas, potatoes, herbs, cabbage, parsley, early vegetables and green manure.

Its bad predecessors are patissons, pumpkins, zucchini and cucumbers.

♦ Soil preparation. Zucchini respects the light, the more light it receives, the better it develops. The ideal place for him in the garden: south-western or southern slopes, with protection from the wind.

The land needs fertile, rich in humus and with a neutral acid-alkaline environment. Prepare the soil for growing zucchini should be based on the composition of the soil:

  • Peat bog. Since autumn, loamy or clay soils (2-3 buckets) and a couple of buckets of humus with compost are brought in (add 1 tablespoon of wood ash and 1 teaspoon of superphosphate to them). Calculation for 1 sq. m. After adding additives, dig up the beds and pour them with liquid fertilizer.
  • Clay and loamy soils. In such lands, you need to add 2-3 kg of peat (do this before planting zucchini). Also add humus, sawdust and ash, superphosphates.
  • Sandstone. This soil needs the addition of sod, sawdust and peat with humus.

If fertilizers were not added when digging in the fall, then this can be done immediately before planting.

For one square meter of land, add compost (10-15 kg), superphosphate (50-60 g) and wood ash (1 tbsp. L).

♦ Seed preparation. In order for the zucchini seeds to sprout together and grow strong and healthy, they must be placed in a diluted solution of mineral fertilizers (sodium or potassium humate), or growth stimulants.

Cover with a damp cloth for a couple of days.

♦ How to plant squash seedlings. For seedlings, zucchini should be planted in late April-early May for an open garden and at the end of February for growing zucchini in greenhouses.

It is better to grow seedlings in pots with a diameter of 10-12 cm. In one container for growing zucchini, you can put 2-3 seeds 1.5 cm into the soil, leave the strongest after germination.

When planting seeds, fill the pot halfway with soil.

  • Seedling ringing. 10-12 days after sowing (at this time, the growth of the cotyledon stalk slows down), pour moist soil into the pot, while twisting the stem with a corkscrew so that only cotyledon leaves are visible from the ground.

Seedlings of zucchini on the southern windows do not require additional lighting.

Seeds begin to germinate at + 12-15 ° C, for normal growth, seeds need temperature conditions during the day: + 21-26 ° C; at night: +19-21° С.

During the growing period, seedlings need to be fed. 8-10 days after germination and another 8-10 days after the first feeding.

The best fertilizer is complex, mineral.

Growing zucchini in open ground

The best time for landing under the open sky: the end of May-beginning of June.

♦ Planting squash seedlings. For planting use potted seedlings aged 25-35 days. This vegetable is a rather voluminous plant, this must be taken into account when planting and growing zucchini.

Between plants you need to leave a distance of 0.9-1 m, in row spacing 1-1.5 m.

Seedlings are best planted on small mounds or beds. Prepare holes in them 8-10 cm deep and plant one vegetable at a time.

  • Seedlings need to be hardened off 7-8 days before planting. Lower the daytime temperature to + 15-17 ° C, the night temperature to + 13-16 ° C. Ventilate the pots with seedlings more often.

Before planting, add 1.5-2 kg of humus or compost to each well and pour well with warm water (1-2 liters per well).

Plant seedlings in the resulting slurry, sprinkling dry earth on all sides.

In order for young zucchini to take root well, cover them with paper caps or cut plastic bottles for the first 7-10 days.

♦ Planting directly, by seeds. In the south and the middle lane, zucchini in the open field can be sown immediately with seeds in mid-May.

It is necessary to sow under cover in one hole for 2-3 seeds. After their shoots, leave the strongest, remove the rest.

For the duration of the harvest, sowing can be carried out several times, taking a week break.

Outdoor zucchini care

What does a zucchini need Tips
Watering zucchini Warm water 8-10 liters per sq.m. water once a week When growing zucchini, it is better to water them not under the stem, but in a ring-shaped groove near the root.
top dressing First fertilization before flowering Slurry (1 l) and nitrophoska (20 g) per 10 l of water. Consumption of 1 liter of mixture per plant.
Second feeding during flowering Wood ash (30-40 g) and complex fertilizer (20 g) per 10-11 liters of water. Consumption of 1 liter per zucchini.
The third supplement during the fruiting period Nitrophoska (40-50 g) per 10 liters of water. Based on 2 liters per plant.

Growing zucchini in a greenhouse

The best time for planting zucchini in greenhouse conditions is the end of March.

♦ How to grow zucchini seedlings. For planting use seedlings aged 30-35 days.

Seedlings should already have 2-3 pairs of true leaves.

It is necessary to plant zucchini in a greenhouse according to the following scheme: 1-2 rows on one bed in such a way that at least 1 sq. m area:

  1. For growing zucchini, dig holes 60-80 cm deep and fill them with warm manure, not reaching the ground level of 10-15 cm.
  2. Make holes in manure to a depth of 15-20 cm with a diameter of 40-50 cm. Fill them with a mixture of soil (5 parts), peat (3 parts) and humus (2 parts). Additionally, add ammonium nitrate (80 g), superphosphate (100 g) and wood ash (400 g) to each well.
  3. Plant seedlings of zucchini in the holes (pre-water them with water). Seedlings deepen to the first cotyledon leaves.

After planting the seedlings, provide the zucchini with a temperature of at least + 12 ° C. If necessary, additionally heat the young plants.

Caring for zucchini in greenhouses

What does a zucchini need Tips
Watering zucchini Water at room, comfortable temperature The first 2-3 weeks after planting is rare, but plentiful. Starting from mid-April, water more often. Ventilate the greenhouse at the same time to prevent fungal diseases.
top dressing Every 10-12 days, alternating mineral and organic top dressing Organic: slurry (1-1.5 l), nitrophoska (20 g) per 10 l of water. Mineral: complex fertilizer (20-30 g), wood ash (30-40 g) per 10 l of water. Consumption 1 l plant mixtures.

When growing zucchini, they should be watered in the evening before sunset.

Never use cold water! This is detrimental to plants.

You can take water from nearby bodies of water or heat it in large containers in the sun. When watering, try not to spray the foliage.

♦ Loosening and weeding. The first loosening must be done after the appearance of the first shoots and at the same time thinning is carried out.

Leave 1-2 plants in the nest, pinch the top of the rest to the level of the soil.

Weeding from weeds is carried out with each loosening.

Harvest

If zucchini is grown in greenhouses, provide for the presence of vents there for the penetration of pollinating insects.

You can also carry out pollination by hand: just transfer the pollen from the male flower to the stigma of the pistil of the female inflorescence.

  • When harvesting vegetables, do not allow them to overripe - such overgrowth will inhibit the development of other ovaries.

Ripe zucchini are carefully cut with a sharp knife with part of the stem. Collect zucchini should be every 5-7 days.

The last time zucchini can be removed at the end of August (in greenhouse conditions) and in September in the open air.

What threatens zucchini

powdery mildew

Diseases

powdery mildew Fungal disease. Mealy white spots appear on the foliage and stem. Sick shoots and leaves die, then the fruits themselves are affected. The reason for the development of the disease is high humidity, sudden changes in temperature, heavy dew. Cloudy and cold weather contributes to the development of the disease.
root rot Attacks adult plants and seedlings. First, the tips of the roots begin to die off, they themselves become dark yellow and become covered with cracks. The disease leads to the death of the plant. The development of the disease when growing zucchini is promoted by too wet soil, watering with chilled water and sudden changes in temperature.
bacteriosis There is a defeat of the fetus and ovary. The ovary becomes vitreous and begins to rot. As a result, the fetus is deformed, brown marks appear on it. High humidity provokes the disease, watering with cold water and illiterate agricultural technology.

Pests

Scoop caterpillars Caterpillars pupate in web cocoons. In autumn they hide in the ground, in summer on plants. Actively gnaw ovaries, flowers, buds. They eat unripe fruits and cause the death of zucchini.
Slugs Habitat Wet places. Especially a lot of them in wet summers. They feed at night. They eat the fruits of zucchini and their flowers. They do a lot of damage to crops.
spider mite They live on the underside of the leaves, braiding them with cobwebs. They begin their activity in the third decade of June. They suck the juice from the plant, causing its death. At first, light dots appear, soon the leaves become marble, fall off.

♦ Funds from the people. Effective folk recipes for pest control when growing zucchini:

  • Onion solution. Finely chop the onion. Pour a glass of onion mixture with water (10 l), add ground black or red pepper (1 tbsp. L), wood ash (3 tbsp. L) and liquid soap (1 tbsp. L). Spray the plants with the solution every 5-6 days 2-3 times.
  • Pepper tincture. Grind hot peppers. Dilute its mass (50 g) with warm water (10 l) and add wood ash (3-4 tablespoons) and liquid soap (1 tablespoon). Spray every 6-7 days.
  • Ash solution. Pour wood ash (2 cups) with hot water, add liquid soap (2 tbsp. L). Let it brew for 1-2 days, strain. Spray zucchini in the evenings in warm weather.

♦ Finished preparations. Purchased drugs can also be used. Well proven:

  • Spark. Dilute the drug tablet with warm water (10 l). Spray plants at the rate of a liter per 10 square meters. m.
  • Phosbecid. Dilute an ampoule (5 ml) of the substance with water (5 l). Spray the zucchini and cover with foil.
  • Confido. Dilute the drug (1 ml) with water (10 l). Spray plants at the rate of a liter of solution per 100 sq. m.

To combat diseases when growing zucchini, it will be effective to spray them during the growing season with colloidal sulfur 35% (80-100 g per 10 liters of water) and Bordeaux mixture.

After harvesting in greenhouses, disinfect all parts of the shelter with bleach (200 g per 10 liters of water).

General preventive measures include competent seed preparation, agricultural technology, the complete destruction of diseased plants and plant residues, careful digging of the soil after harvesting, and strict adherence to the recommended growing conditions for zucchini.

Now we have a closer look at zucchini and the rules for their successful cultivation. I also suggest watching a very short video about a very interesting way of growing zucchini.

See you soon, dear readers and have a good harvest!

The main feature of zucchini is versatility and simplicity. And we are talking not only about culinary characteristics, when grown, it also does not cause any trouble at all. To reap a good harvest, gardeners need to work a little physically and apply some agrotechnical knowledge. Next, we will talk about how to properly grow zucchini in the open field, which neighbors to choose for them, how to fertilize, and whether the plant needs it.

Sowing zucchini seeds in open ground

The successful cultivation of this variety of pumpkin depends largely on the quality of the seeds, the chosen site and the complex of preparatory work. It consists in pre-sowing seed treatment, plowing and its enrichment with nutrients. Let's look at all the subtleties in more detail.

When to sow seeds outdoors

As soon as the threat of spring frosts passes, and friendly shoots of other crops appear in the garden, you need to sow zucchini in open ground. This usually happens in the last decade of May and at the beginning.

Did you know? For a long time, zucchini was grown as an exotic crop exclusively in greenhouses, and only in Mexico - in their historical homeland - they consumed seeds for food. The Italians were the first to dare to try the whole vegetable.

How to prepare zucchini seeds

All the worries about the future harvest begin with the choice of seed material. Some housewives collect it from their own, while others prefer purchased. It is important to check home seeds for germination.

To do this, they are soaked in a very weak solution of potassium permanganate, after which the settled specimens are kept for about 20 minutes in a growth stimulator. This stage of preparatory work is completed by rinsing and wrapping the selected grains in a damp and warm cloth.

Important! Zucchini grains, homemade or purchased, except for hybrids, are suitable for planting for 5-8 years. Quality specimens remain viable for longer.

After the seed swells, but does not yet take roots, it is stratified for 48 hours at a temperature of about 0 ° C. Then the bundle is placed on the southern windowsill for a week, periodically wetting with water.

The material is ready for planting when root processes up to a third of the grains long have developed on it. Not all summer residents are engaged in the germination of zucchini. Many plant seeds in open ground, processed only either.

Choosing a place for planting zucchini

When looking for a suitable bed for pumpkin crops, take note of the thermophilicity of zucchini and their main requirements for growing agrotechnics. Plants will be very comfortable in an open, well-lit area, where there are no buildings or trees nearby.

It is desirable that the vegetables were in the sun throughout the day. It is also important to consider the landscape of the site: avoid cold lowlands, drafts and windy areas.

Don't be in a hurry to plan your garden: in this case, it is important to understand, after which and with what it is better to plant zucchini.

Experts consider ideal predecessors for culture:, all types, and. For 3-4 years, it is not recommended to cultivate representatives of the pumpkin family in the same area. Also, do not sow where they grew before.

Important! Almost all imported zucchini seeds from stores are hybrids. They are not suitable for collecting next year's seed.

Wrong crop rotation and neighborhood will make it difficult for the development of zucchini. This is because the grains end up in depleted soil, and an unfavorable pathogenic environment has remained from the predecessors.

In no case should you plant and next to zucchini. Cucurbits and melons have a common nutritional requirement and the same sensitivity to pathogens. As a result of such an experiment, you will get crop failure on both beds.

Preparatory work on the plot for zucchini

What exactly needs to be done on the site before planting depends on the physico-chemical characteristics of the substrate on it. Many, when asked what kind of soil is needed for zucchini, without hesitation, answer: “Warm”. This is an important nuance, because in a cold environment the seeds will not sprout, but not the main one. First, determine the soil composition in the garden and adjust it with fertilizers.

Did you know? Zucchini has a diuretic effect, removes sodium salts from the body, improves bowel function, improves metabolic processes and digestion.

If you have:


Did you know? Scientists have proven that people who regularly eat zucchini dishes practically do not turn gray. This happens through the activation of melanin, which is responsible for the pigment of the hair.

The scheme and depth of sowing seeds

The technology of growing zucchini in open ground provides for significant distances between adjacent bushes. Experienced vegetable growers are advised to retreat in rows of 1 meter and leave one and a half meter aisles. Sowing should be carried out in moist soil, preferably in cloudy weather or in the morning.

The holes are made shallow, but wide. A soil mixture with an organic preparation Effekton is added to the bottom (1 tablespoon in each hole), 3 grains are sown at a distance of 2-3 cm.

If it is necessary to save crops from frost, seedlings are covered with hay, film or cut bottles (each plant separately).

How to care for zucchini outdoors

The subsequent care of the squash bed in the garden consists in timely feeding and weeding. Let's deal with everything in order.

Soil irrigation mode

Watering zucchini is carried out only under the root, since water should not fall on the foliage. Before the appearance of flowers, it is advisable to moisten once a week, and when the ovary is formed, the amount of moisture should be doubled. Under each bush, it is desirable to pour from 5 to 10 liters of warm water.

Always collect water for irrigation in advance, otherwise you will have to observe a lot of festering greens on the site. Do not overdo it - excessive watering exposes the root system of the zucchini, which leads to its death. Plants need to be saved with a mixture of peat and compost. It is enough to pour a layer up to 5 cm high around the bush.

Important! If there are no bees flying in the garden, and zucchini are in full bloom, pick a male-type flower, tear off the petals from it and put it with a pestle in a female flower. So you can pollinate up to 3 stamens.

Loosening and weeding between rows

For zucchini, as for all other plants, the condition of the soil in the garden matters. A pumpkin culture will not be able to fully develop if nutrients growing nearby are taken from it. Therefore, it is very important to process row-spacings with a hoe in time and manually remove unnecessary vegetation from the bushes.

Fertilizer for zucchini

You can feed the squash bed with root and foliar methods.

For the season you need to carry out 3 top dressing:


Did you know? In cooking, not only the fruits of zucchini, but also flowers have found application. They are also fried, boiled, baked, added fresh to salads. And in Greece, you will be treated to rice and cheese baked in zucchini petals.

Foliar top dressing for zucchini in the open field can be carried out at will during the fruit ripening period. For these purposes, the plant is treated with drugs and Ross.

Prevention and protection against pests and diseases of zucchini

Cucurbits are susceptible to attack,. They can also be affected by rot, mold, and. In order not to lose the harvest, it is important to take preventive measures in time. To combat harmful insects, experts recommend insecticides (