Eggplant.
beans.
The most favorable relationship, which can be described as mutual assistance, exists between beans and cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around cucumber beds. They go well with sweet corn, potatoes, radishes. radish, spinach, mustard. The inclusion of beans in the planting of these crops improves their nitrogen supply. Fragrant basil, planted next to beans, reduces damage to them by the bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, lavender, oregano, rosemary, yarrow. It is not recommended to plant beans with onions, leeks, chives and garlic. The neighborhood of marigolds and wormwood is bad for beans.
Grape.
In Moldova, as mentioned earlier, a large number of cultivated plants have been studied for their compatibility with grapes. A stimulating effect on the growth of grapes was provided by corn, beans, rye, potatoes, radishes, and oilseed radishes. A negative effect was noted during joint plantings with onions, barley, soybeans, cabbage. The incompatibility of grapes and cabbage has been known for a long time. Already in ancient Greece they knew that cabbage is the enemy of the vine. This may seem surprising, because other plants of the cabbage family are not so hostile to grapes, while radish and oilseed radish, on the contrary, have a beneficial effect on it.
Peas.
Mutual assistance relations were noted in peas with carrots, turnips, and cucumbers. It grows well between the rows of these crops, helping them in turn by the fact that, like all legumes, it enriches the soil with nitrogen. Peas can be combined on the same bed with radish, radish, head lettuce, kohlrabi, parsley. Combinations of peas with types of onions, garlic, tomatoes are unfavorable. Of the herbs, wormwood has a bad effect on peas. There are conflicting opinions about the relationship of peas with potatoes and cabbage: some authors consider these combinations quite possible, others treat them negatively.
Cabbage.
Different types of cabbage are characterized by rather close preferences in relation to accompanying plants. Mutual aid relationships are noted in cabbage with bush beans and celery. These species favorably act on each other, and celery, in addition, protects cabbage from earthen fleas. Dill, planted between the rows of cabbage, improves its taste and repels caterpillars, aphids. The proximity of borage grass is also favorable for cabbage, it has a good effect on cabbage and drives snails away with its hard hairy leaves. A very good companion crop for cabbage is all types of lettuce. They also protect her from the earthen flea. Cabbage also needs protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay their eggs on the leaves. This role can be played by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant thyme, sage, rosemary, mint, hyssop, medicinal wormwood, chamomile around plantings of cabbage. Leek repels cutworm caterpillars. Cabbage can be combined on the same bed with cucumbers, tomatoes, spinach, beets, chard, potatoes, chicory. There is no consensus on its compatibility with strawberries and onions. Of all types of cabbage, kohlrabi is the most suitable partner for table beets and a bad neighbor for tomatoes. Cabbage does not go well with parsley and suffers greatly from close-growing grapes. Tansy does not work well on kale.
Potato.
Concerning the relationship of potatoes with tomatoes, beets and peas, there are opposite opinions.
Favorably growing potatoes in a mixed culture. It is less sick and can grow longer in one place without reducing the yield. The best partners for potatoes are spinach, bush beans and beans. Beans planted between rows enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potato goes well with cabbage, especially cauliflower and kohlrabi, lettuce, corn, radish. Many authors note that a small number of horseradish plants planted in the corners of a potato plot have a beneficial effect on potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is repelled by catnip, coriander, nasturtium, tansy, marigolds. It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery; sunflower and quinoa have a depressing effect on potatoes.
Strawberry.
Strawberries are favorably affected by bush beans, spinach, parsley. Parsley is recommended to be planted between the rows of strawberries to repel slugs. Strawberries can be combined with garlic, cabbage, lettuce, onions, radishes, radishes, beets. Of the herbs, borage (borage) and sage work well for her. Mulching the soil with spruce and pine needles contributes to a significant improvement in the taste of strawberries.
Corn.
It belongs to plants that are very demanding on nutrition, therefore it is advised to alternate blocks of corn with blocks of bush beans; it benefits from the proximity of this legume, a soil improver. Corn is combined with cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, beans, early potatoes. These crops stimulate its growth. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. In terms of allelopathy, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It favorably affects sunflower, potatoes, grapes. Bad neighbors for her are celery and beetroot.
Onion.
The classic combination is onions and carrots. These two crops protect each other from pests: carrots drive away the onion fly, and onions drive away the carrot fly. Thanks to its compact form, onions are used as an additional crop, which is placed in the aisles of the main crop. It is combined with beets, lettuce, cucumbers, strawberries, spinach, radishes, watercress. There is no consensus regarding the combination of onions with cabbage. Some authors believe that onions have a good effect on cabbage and drive away pests. Savory bordering is favorable for onion growth, chamomile also works well for it, but in small quantities: approximately one plant per 1 linear meter. m beds. Onions do not combine with beans, peas, beans. For him, the neighborhood of sage is unfavorable.
Leek.
Companion plants for leeks are celery, bush beans, head lettuce, carrots, beets. Leeks and celeriacs have a helpful relationship, so it is recommended to plant them in alternating rows.
Perennial onion (chive).
It goes well with tomatoes, celery, lettuce, cabbage, carrots, strawberries, endives, it is not recommended to plant next to peas, beans, beets.
Carrot.
It tolerates the neighborhood of many crops, grows well next to onions and spinach, and also goes well with tomatoes, radishes, radishes, chard, chives, garlic, lettuce. But the closest plant to the carrot with which it has a mutual assistance relationship is the pea. Carrots are recommended to be surrounded by the following crops to repel carrot flies: rosemary, sage, tobacco, onions. Hostile herbs - dill, anise.
Cucumbers.
For cucumbers, satellite plants are bush and curly beans, celery, beets, lettuce, cabbage, garlic, onions, chives, radishes, spinach, fennel. Beans have the most favorable effect on cucumbers, so it is advised to plant beans around a plot with cucumbers. The cucumbers themselves are planted around corn, which greatly benefits from such a neighborhood. Favorable herbs for cucumbers are chamomile, dill, borage. The question of the compatibility of cucumbers with tomatoes is not clear. Different authors express directly opposite opinions on this matter: some believe that this is a good combination, others that this is an absolutely impossible combination. So every gardener will have to find out this question most empirically.
Parsley.
It is a companion plant for many crops: asparagus, roses, celery, leeks, peas, tomatoes, radishes, strawberries, lettuce. It is recommended to plant along the edges of the beds with tomatoes. Planted next to roses, it reduces the number of aphids on them; planted in the aisles of strawberries - drives away slugs.
Pepper.
Companion plant - Basil, carrot, lovage, marjoram, oregano, onion, hostile plant - fennel.
Radish.
It tolerates mixed plantings with tomatoes, spinach, parsley, chard, types of onions, garlic, types of cabbage, strawberries, peas. Especially favorable for radish is its combination in the same row with leaf and head lettuce, which protect it from earthen flea. Radishes planted between bush beans have a particularly delicate taste and large root crops. Beans also protect radishes from pests. Since radish seeds germinate quickly, it is recommended to plant them together with slow-growing crops (beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips) to mark the rows. Radishes do not like intense heat, so they are often sown in alternating rows with chervil, which shade them a little and protect them from overheating. Nasturtium and watercress, bordering radish beds, improve the taste of radishes, adding sharpness, and under the influence of leaf lettuce, it becomes more delicate. The neighborhood of hyssop is unfavorable for radishes. Some gardeners believe that cucumbers are also a bad neighbor for him.
Turnip.
Companion plant - pea. Unfavorable for turnips are gulyavnik, mustard and highlander bird (knotweed).
Salad.
Head and leaf lettuce (chives) goes well with most garden crops. It is a good companion for tomatoes, cucumbers, curly and bush beans, chives, spinach, strawberries, peas. Its neighborhood is especially favorable for vegetables from the cruciferous family - all types of cabbage, radish, radish, as it repels the earthen flea. And for him, the neighborhood of an onion that repels aphids is useful. Lettuce does not like overheating and needs partial shading, but only partial, so the close proximity of plants with dense foliage, such as carrots, beets, is unfavorable for lettuce. Lettuce bushes can be placed in different places in the garden, where it will grow under the cover of taller plants. The neighborhood of chrysanthemums is especially favorable for him.
Table beet.
Hubmann, who has tested the compatibility of red beets with other vegetables for many years, claims that five types of vegetables - potatoes, tomatoes, bush beans, beets and spinach - stimulate each other. According to his observations, beets. it also has a very good effect on cabbage of all kinds, lettuce, radish and radish, the neighborhood of onions, kohlrabi, spinach, lettuce is especially favorable for beets, in addition, it tolerates joint plantings with garlic, cucumbers, strawberries, celery root. Regarding the incompatibility of beets with other crops, there is no consensus. Some gardeners claim that it does not grow well in the neighborhood of chives, corn and potatoes. Chard, which belongs to the same botanical family as the beet, is also subject to controversy. One author claims that it has a beneficial effect on beets, another that vegetables of this family cannot stand each other's root secretions and therefore they cannot be planted side by side. There are suggestions that beet root secretions have antibiotic properties and therefore its replanting to some crops, in particular to carrots, can have a healing effect on them. But at the same time, one should not forget about observing a sufficient distance between plants, since the powerful beet foliage obscures neighboring crops.
Celery.
Celery and white cabbage have a mutual assistance relationship: cabbage stimulates the growth of celery, and celery drives white butterflies away from cabbage. Celery goes well with tomatoes, spinach, cucumbers, lettuce, beets. Chives and bush beans are especially beneficial to it, it is not recommended to plant celery next to corn, potatoes, parsley, carrots.
Tomatoes.
Tomatoes are considered by some to be "selfish" plants that like to grow on their own, separate from other crops. But the experience of German and Swiss gardeners says that tomatoes tolerate the neighborhood of other vegetables well and are quite suitable for mixed plantings. They go well with celery, endive, radish, radish, corn, lettuce, cabbage, garlic, carrots, beets. A mutually beneficial effect was noted with chives, spinach, bush beans, parsley, which is often planted as a border for tomato beds. Tomatoes have a hostile relationship with kohlrabi, fennel, and dill. As for the relationship of tomatoes with potatoes and cucumbers, opinions differ here, perhaps it depends on the method of planting. Favorable for tomatoes is the neighborhood of the following herbs that improve their taste and condition: basil, lemon balm, borage, chives, marigolds, mint, sage, savory. Dioecious nettle, growing next to tomatoes, improves the quality of tomato juice and extends the shelf life of fruits.
Pumpkin.
Wells with pumpkin are advised to be placed between corn plants. Corn shade the pumpkin in hot weather and saves it from overheating.
Beans.
Bush beans are the friendliest vegetable of the legume family. Relationships of mutual assistance and mutual stimulation were noted for beans and radishes, all types of cabbage, corn, celery, cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes, beets, and spinach. With root secretions rich in nitrogen, beans help other types of vegetables growing next to them. In addition, it is compatible with chard, lettuce, strawberries, leeks. Beans do not tolerate the neighborhood of onions, garlic, fennel, peas. Of herbs for beans, savory is recommended, which protects it from black aphids.
Garlic.
Apparently, in Western Europe it is not very popular, so it is rarely used in mixed plantings. It is known that garlic goes well with tomatoes, beets, carrots, cucumbers, strawberries and has a bad effect on beans, peas, cabbage.
Spinach.
Spinach is a favorite member of the vegetable community in Germany and Switzerland. Many positive qualities are attributed to him, including cold resistance, a short ripening period, and a compact form. All this makes it a very convenient crop for consecutive and combined plantings. In addition, spinach roots have a beneficial effect on soil properties, and saponin, which is part of its root secretions, stimulates the absorption of nutrients by the roots of vegetables growing next to it. Relations of mutual favorable influence are noted for spinach and potatoes, tomatoes, beans, and beets. The most common combinations are spinach with kohlrabi, radish, lettuce. It also goes well with carrots, onions, parsley, watercress, celery, cabbage, strawberries. Spinach has no hostile relationship with any plant species.
All of the above advice regarding the joint planting of vegetables should be taken as recommendations, and not as absolutely firm rules. Each gardener should test them on his site with the varieties available to him in relation to local conditions.
The described methods of joint planting of vegetable crops provide for the effective use of the entire area of the garden during the entire summer season. With this method of cultivation, a plot of 100 m 2 can feed a family of four.
Another important piece of advice from experienced gardeners should be mentioned. This concerns the preparation of an annual landing plan. It is needed in order, firstly, to observe the correct alternation of crops over the years in accordance with the rotation rules described above, and secondly, to plan the sowing and replanting of one crop to another at the beginning of the year. All this is difficult to remember and keep in mind, especially with a wide variety of crops, so a garden plan is absolutely necessary.
Most summer residents have very small areas, and they try to fit as many vegetables as possible in the garden. Some combinations are useful, but there are also unwanted neighbors. It is important to have an idea of what this or that neighborhood can lead to.
Why do we need joint planting of vegetables
Joint planting of various vegetables in the garden is not only space saving. Many cultures protect each other from pests and diseases, various herbs are especially important in this matter, and onions and garlic are especially famous for their phytoncidal action. Tall plants (corn, sunflower) protect delicate vegetables from the winds and the scorching sun, they can also serve as a support for climbing plants.
Early vegetables can keep weeds from growing while slow-witted ones like carrots and parsley have emerged. The rapidly rising radish serves as a “beacon” culture: it is sown to the same carrots so that future rows can be seen during weeding. And a classic is planting seedlings of late cabbage or eggplant in those beds where early greens or the same radish are already ripening: while the seedlings take root, the spring harvest will already be harvested.
A good owner does not lose a single centimeter of the garden
The concept of "compacting cultures" is well known. Compactors can serve as a source of nitrogen (peas, beans), to protect against pests (onions, garlic) or to attract pollinators (mint, basil, etc.).
Examples of successful combinations of vegetables in the same garden
The classic option, known even to novice gardeners, is the joint planting of onions and carrots: onions drive away the carrot fly, and carrots drive away the onion fly. Onions and garlic in general can be planted with almost any vegetable. There are many other useful combinations. So, basil, planted in a tomato garden, accelerates fruiting and improves the taste of tomatoes. As a result, even yields can increase by 20%.
Onions mixed with carrots - a famous example of a good neighborhood
Dill drives the white butterfly away from the cabbage beds, celery saves the cabbage from the cabbage fly. Peas and beans have the ability to extract nitrogen literally "from the air", fixing it in the soil on their roots. Obviously, part of the nitrogen is transferred in this case to the nearest neighbors. Spinach contributes to the accumulation of moisture in the soil, they try to plant it with those vegetables that do not tolerate drought.
Horseradish is often considered an unwanted neighbor, as it spreads throughout the garden. But if you restrain its growth, it benefits, for example, potatoes, driving away pests. Beans are added to potatoes to fight the Colorado potato beetle. Peas often suffer from codling moth. If you sow mustard nearby, he will be saved.
What vegetables can not be planted in one garden
Neighborhood rules intersect with crop rotation rules, and one of the main ones is that related crops should not be planted nearby. This is mainly due to the fact that they suffer from some diseases and pests. Therefore, we must try not to plant eggplants or potatoes next to tomatoes. Pepper is also not worth it, but this rule is often neglected.
Another rule says that the root system of neighbors must be at a different level. No matter how useful powerful corn is for sheltering crops from hell and winds, those vegetables that have weak roots will have nothing to eat next to it. Therefore, for example, onions should be planted further away.
Often a neighbor is bad because it requires different humidity conditions. And if, for example, cabbage needs to be watered for almost the entire season, then tomatoes do not water at all during the ripening period: they will crack. By planting them side by side, you can be left without a crop of tomatoes. For approximately the same reason (and also because of the humidity of the air), cucumbers should not be planted next to tomatoes in a greenhouse.
There are various tables: sometimes they contradict each other a little, but only in particulars
Joint planting of vegetables in the garden saves space and often allows you to increase yields. It is only necessary when planning plantings to know that bad combinations of crops, although rare, also occur.
Proper placement of plants in the beds affects their yield more than it seems. The fact that some crops grow better if they are planted together, while others, on the contrary, interfere with each other, was also noticed by the Indians who plant pumpkins, beans and corn together. Now many gardeners and summer residents know about the successful and unsuccessful neighborhood of vegetables in the beds. The table of "friends" and "enemies" of each vegetable has been studied in detail and is available to everyone.
Good neighbors in the garden
Joint planting of vegetables not only makes full use of the available land, but also positively affects the growth and yield of both plants. As a nice addition, such beds will look very nice from the outside. Smart garden planning and the interaction of plants in it combines many nuances that have been studied by both scientists and farmers in their own experience.
It is known that many plants emit chemical compounds that can both promote the growth of neighbors and suppress it. In addition, they can provide each other with protection from the heat, providing shade, enriching the soil, inhibiting the growth of weeds that are dangerous to another species, or repel pests. Each culture has its own list of useful and harmful companions in the garden.
Benefits of co-planting
Rules for joint planting of cultivated plants designed primarily to increase productivity. Observing them, a person receives the following benefits:
Different neighbors are good for each plant, so you need to carefully consider the layout of the garden before you start mixed planting vegetables in the beds. An example of a successful neighborhood: cucumber and corn, when cereals protect the vegetable from the scorching sun and at the same time serve as a support for it. Corn is also good in the vicinity of tomatoes, but it is better not to plant tomatoes with cucumbers themselves - they require completely different amounts of moisture and fresh air for optimal growth.
Vegetables can be planted not only next to other edible plants, but also with fragrant herbs or even flowers.
For example, basil improves the taste of tomatoes, while mint improves the taste of white cabbage. Almost all crops can be planted next to garlic and onions, because these odorous plants produce a large amount of phytoncides that work well on many vegetables.
All plants need pollinators, which can be attracted by planting flowers next to vegetables - they will not only benefit, but also serve as a garden decoration. In addition to them, herbs such as mint, lemon balm and marjoram will help attract pollinating insects. Earthworms also have a good effect on most crops - they loosen the earth, increasing the amount of oxygen available to plants. They like herbs such as chicory, valerian and green onions.
Universal neighbors that are useful for almost any vegetable are legumes. Nodule bacteria live on their roots, processing nitrogen from the air, which the beans can supply to closely growing plants. The most nitrogen-rich soil remains after the end of their growth, therefore legumes also serve as a good predecessor for crops demanding this parameter, for example, pumpkin or cabbage.
Another plant that is friendly with so many vegetables is spinach. It releases special substances that help plants better absorb the beneficial elements from the garden. In addition, spinach leaves quickly grow and cover the ground, protecting it from drying out and preventing weeds from developing, while neighboring vegetables are still small and occupy the entire garden.
All cultures prefer different friends - there are many factors to consider in order to understand what to plant with what in the garden. The compatibility table of the most popular vegetables looks like this:
Pest protectors
Many plants repel or lure insects or animals that feed on vegetable crops. They can be combined in plantings with vulnerable plants or planted between rows for preventive purposes. If you do it right, you can significantly reduce the use of chemicals in the garden or completely eliminate them. Different crops will help protect the garden from such pests:
Warring vegetables
In addition to friend plants that strengthen and support each other in the garden, there are neighbors that are very bad for some species, which inhibit their growth and have a bad effect on the crop. The consequences of joint planting of such "enemies" are often the attraction of pests, diseases, waterlogging, due to which fungi develop, or even the complete cessation of growth of one of the crops. Enemies of the most common garden plants:
Rules for successful combination
In order to get a rich harvest, it is not enough just to plant suitable crops nearby and protect their enemy plants - many more factors must be taken into account. It is best to combine species that are favorable to each other both horizontally and vertically, and also plant them at the right time so that vegetables that grow too early do not ruin their neighbors.
Plants in a joint bed should first of all be combined according to preferences for temperature and amount of water. It is also worth considering the structure of their root system - you need to plant vegetables with different root depths nearby so that they do not intersect and there is no competition.
Another important parameter is the amount of nutrients the plant needs. The culture most in need of them is planted in the center of the planting, and the less demanding crops are planted on the sides. You can never plant crops with the same height and width of leaves on one bed - one of them will definitely destroy a neighbor.
For the proper cultivation of vegetables, you also need to know after which crops they can be planted.
Onions, for example, prefer cucumbers, legumes and early varieties of potatoes as predecessors, but do not like it when celery, radish or carrots grew in front of it in the garden. Both in small and large crop rotations, you should not use plants of the same family twice in a row: this is especially true for beets, chard and spinach.
In a greenhouse, vegetables grow faster - this is also worth considering if you want to create joint plantings there. Before starting work, you need to carefully consider the layout of the beds - take into account the cardinal points (some crops, such as cucumbers and tomatoes, are grown on the southern sunny side of greenhouses), find those plants that are suitable for the same humidity and temperature, and make sure that none of them did not interfere with others.
Joint planting of vegetables is a very effective and useful way, which will help to grow a good crop even under adverse conditions or in a small area. Using the various tables, you can easily create your own combinations of suitable plants and enjoy delicious and juicy vegetables from the garden every year.
Compatibility of vegetables in the beds
Joint planting of vegetables is practiced by many well-known agronomists throughout Russia. This technology allows, by planting different types of garden crops together, to get huge yields even from the smallest plots.
In this article, we will cover:
- Why do joint planting of vegetables.
- How to make joint plantings in the garden.
- Which plants are compatible with each other.
- Examples of joint landings.
Why do joint landings
Planting vegetables together (or compacted plantings) is one of my favorite lazy gardening techniques. It makes no sense to look after a garden of ten acres when the same crop can be grown on two. In addition, joint planting of two or more crops on the same bed can really increase the yield; the main thing is to choose the right cultures.
In the article about the smart garden, we talked about how to make smart beds and how to arrange them in the garden. But experienced amateur vegetable growers also use the ability of plants to influence each other in their work.
Any plant through the leaves and roots releases substances that can harm neighbors or help them; or hurt and help at the same time. So, a plant can scare away a pest from a neighbor, but at the same time inhibit its growth.
Leaves (especially aromatic crops) can release either volatile substances or substances soluble in water, which return to the soil during irrigation or rain.
The roots simply release biologically active compounds into the soil, which are absorbed by the roots of neighboring plants.
How do plants influence each other?
Tall plants can be planted together with lower ones - they will create the necessary shade and protect from the wind.
All legumes are able to accumulate nitrogen in the nodules, which they absorb from the air. They not only do not take nitrogen from the soil, but also share their own accumulations with their neighbors, releasing it from nodules in a form that is easily digestible by other plants.
Substances released from the roots and leaves of some plants can repel pests from others, or knock them off the trail with their strong odor.
Alevtinka Member of FORUMHOUSE
The main thing is to confuse the pest, it flies by the smell.
4. The smell of carrots will scare away the onion fly, and the spider mite will think three times before attacking carrots, onions are planted next to the bark. Cruciferous fleas cannot stand the smell of garlic, etc.
5. The most delicious, large, non-bitter, pure radish grows on the same bed with bush beans. In such plantings, beans are sown two weeks later than radishes.
Why plants may be incompatible
In the world of plants, cooperation and mutual assistance can be found more often than enmity. But leaf and root secretions of some plants can still inhibit the growth of others. Orchard crops can also compete for sun, moisture, nutrients in the soil and overwhelm each other. All this must be taken into account when planting plants together or on adjacent beds.
When planting two crops on the same bed, it should be remembered that one of them should be the main one, and the second - a compactor or accompanying crop. It is planted to thicken, fill gaps. In this photo from the album of a FORUMHOUSE user with the nickname Gardener the main crop is carrots, and the accompanying one is garlic.
Gardener
The principle of combining crops on a narrow ridge. Garlic (onions) will protect carrots from carrot flies.
Table of compatibility of garden plants in a thickened planting
Tables of joint plantings can help the gardener with the selection of plants. .
The main crops in joint plantings are vegetables with a long ripening period. Spicy herbs and marigolds are planted between them (this plant copes with many pests).
Gardener
Plant marigolds throughout the garden. In autumn, their stems are embedded in the soil - to scare away soil insect pests and prevent hibernating beetles (for example, the Colorado potato beetle) from penetrating the soil. Wireworm and aphids cannot stand the smell of marigolds.
Also, the accompanying crop can be early-ripening varieties of vegetables. Early maturing varieties ripen, they are harvested, and the main crop gets more space, sun and nutrition for its development.
In the photo above, we see the joint planting of cabbage on the "smart beds" of the famous agronomist Igor Lyadov.
Gardener
Cabbage is planted in a checkerboard pattern, late and early alternate. When the early one is eaten, the later one scatters leaves in the vacant place.
Joint planting patterns
We offer you several well-functioning joint planting schemes for popular garden crops.
Joint planting of cucumber with dill: on a narrow bed, cucumbers are sown in two rows, every 60 cm. Dill is sown between the cucumbers and along the edges of the bed. Plants mutually increase each other's productivity, dill grows just in time for pickling cucumbers.
Joint planting of onions with carrots, radishes and parsley: a very good scheme, in which onions are first sown - 5 rows every 15 cm, several radish seeds are sown in each row of onions. A row of carrots, a row of parsley, another row of carrots, and another row of parsley are sown in the aisles of onions. Radishes are harvested first, then onions. Carrots and parsley with this planting scheme in early summer receive protection from pests, and in the second half of summer - the opportunity to develop good root crops.
Quail
I removed the onion, and there was more space and light for the carrots.
Joint planting of beets and lettuce. Seedlings of any lettuce are planted in rows after 30 cm, when it takes root, beet seedlings are planted (the distance between beet plants in a row is 15 cm). Lettuce is harvested after 30-40 cm, beet roots develop to full maturity.
In all these schemes, the principle of complementarity of crops in joint plantings is clearly visible: plants have a beneficial effect on the growth and development of each other, protect against pests and do not compete for nutrients.
A culture that needs more nutrients is always placed in the middle of the bed, an additional crop at the edges.
Watermelons. Watermelon is a good companion for potatoes, oat root. Corn and peas improve the growth and taste of watermelons. Contribute to the growth of watermelons sow thistle and gauze.
Eggplant. Helps eggplant grow healthy amaranth (of course, in small quantities). The beans keep the Colorado potato beetle away. The space between the eggplants (rather extensive) can be successfully used for a salad. It is useful to surround the eggplant with basil. Tarragon and thyme can help in the fight against flea (in a pinch, infusions).
Shiritsa (amaranth)
Okra. Okra is a strong, tall plant, the stem is fibrous (okra is one of the types of jute), and okra bushes can be left in the garden in the winter, and peas can be planted in the spring to the finished trellis. It is good to plant peppers, eggplants, melons, cucumbers with okra.
Peas.Peas are a great company for almost all vegetables (potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, turnips, radishes, cucumbers, corn, beans) and aromatic herbs. The exception is all sorts of bows and gladioli. Cabbage plants prevent root rot in peas. In the shade of peas, lettuce, spinach, cucumbers and even eggplant grow well.
Peas in potatoes are especially good. It repels not only the Colorado potato beetle, but also the wireworm. Shrunken stalks of peas should not be pulled out of the ground - the soil will be more structural.
Melons. Potatoes inhibit the growth of melons and can cause them to wilt. The close proximity of cucumbers is harmful to melons - they can mutually pollinate, and both will become bitter. Help melons grow radishes and gauze.
Cabbage. Although different types of cabbage (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi) grow and develop differently, their problems and their behavior in phytocenoses are similar.
Cabbage butterflies are driven away from cabbage by celery, thyme, hyssop, wormwood. The neighborhood of aromatic herbs (dill, chamomile, mint, sage), various types of onions (turnips, shallots, batun, chaivis, leeks), and beans are useful for cabbage. Compatible cabbage with potatoes. This is some kind of mysticism, explained only by allelopathy (this time - “good”): such a tight, tasty and clean cabbage, as planted between the rows of potatoes after hilling, simply did not have to be seen.
"Not to your liking" cabbage strawberries and tomatoes. She herself oppresses the grapes. Cauliflower "does not like" the neighborhood of cucumbers and beets, as well as tall plants that shade it.
Potato. Many plants can make a useful company for potatoes: beans, beets, corn, lettuce, radishes, coriander, nasturtium, flax, tansy, catnip, horseradish, amaranth. But the potato has an affectionate "companion" - the Colorado potato beetle. Therefore, we single out among the possible neighbors those who can help the potato in this trouble.
Well protects potatoes from the Colorado horseradish beetle. But horseradish is extremely invasive - its roots can stretch many meters deep and wide, and it can grow from any piece of root. There is no such organization of joint planting of potatoes and horseradish that would save the garden from clogging with horseradish.
horseradish
The Colorado potato beetle does not like the smell of tansy and catnip. Against the beetle, infusions of tansy and catnip can be successfully used. An infusion of catnip contains the poison nepetakton, which is detrimental to the larvae. Delphinium infusion has the same property.
Common tansy
Catnip
Legumes provide some protection against the beetle. Seeds of peas and beans (and even heat-loving beans) can simply be thrown into the hole when planting potatoes and then, as it were, forgotten about them.
Repel the beetle (unfortunately, slightly) coriander, nasturtium, flax. They can be sown at random, but it is still better on the south side of the row: they will cover the soil near the potato bushes and protect the roots from unwanted overheating. Marigolds are also unpleasant for the beetle, but they are allelopathic enough to be good company for potatoes. Since the beetle finds potatoes by smell, basil can be confusing.
In the fight against the beetle, you can use trap plants. If there are extra seedlings, you can plant eggplants on potatoes - rarely, bushes after 20. Beetles are lured by this plant, which is more tasty for them, and it is easier to collect them here. YetDatura and belladonna (Belladonna) are more graceful in this role. Female beetles lay their eggs on these nightshades, and the larvae literally find themselves in a trap: the leaves are deadly poisonous for them, and they are unable to change the plant, and they don’t want to. True, the creation of these traps is a rather troublesome task: to prepare seeds, sow them at the right time and in the right place (and even better, grow seedlings), and then protect yourself from self-sowing.
Datura vulgaris
Belladonna vulgaris
If the garden is not flooded with pesticides, then birds - titmouse, finches, robins, thrushes, nuthatches, orioles can provide significant assistance in the fight against the beetle.
Effective in the fight against the beetle, an infusion of walnut leaves is available (and recommended by many manuals). But the yuglon poison contained in them is very resistant, unlike the nepetacton or the curare-like delphinium poison. Of course, if we “live alone”, then you can water the garden with juglone. But then it's even "better" to sprinkle with DDT.
Another serious misfortune for potatoes - late blight . A plant that can help potatoes in the fight against late blight is garlic. Not only by itself, as a neighbor, but also as a source of raw materials for the infusion.
Some plants, on the contrary, help late blight. Weaken the ability of potatoes to resist the disease growing in the neighborhood of raspberries and, of course, tomatoes. Sunflowers, pumpkins, zucchini, and cucumbers can all be home to late blight, although they don't suffer from it themselves.
Potatoes promote the growth of cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, bok choy, onion. Apple trees and potatoes have a bad effect on each other: ripening apples inhibit the growth of potatoes, and that (in retaliation, or what?) Prevents the absorption of phosphorus and nitrogen by apple trees.
Bad in the neighborhood with turnip potatoes and pumpkin.
Corn. It grows well with potatoes. And beans simply feed corn - a strong eater - with nitrogen. The sparse shadow cast by corn is favorable for watermelons, pumpkins, and cucumbers.
Onion. Onions are good in company with different types of cabbages.
He also likes onions, strawberries, tomatoes, lettuce, savory and (in small quantities) chamomile and petunia. Perennial bows (batun, chayvis) are good in circles near roses.
The neighborhood of carrots and potatoes is especially useful for onions. Brilliant company - borage, thistle, nettle.
Bad - peas, sage, beans, gladioli. Bow drillers don't like it.
Carrot. All kinds of onions, garlic, oat root are good with carrots, dill and anise are bad. Flowering (seed) carrots attract beneficial insects.
No need to plant carrots near an apple tree - both carrots and apples will be bitter!
Oat root. The oat root repels the onion fly, so its seeds can be mixed with carrot seeds (also repelling the onion fly) and sown mixed with onions.
Cucumbers. Cucumbers are very good together with corn. Corn protects cucumbers from bacterial wilt, and together they drive away ants.
The neighborhood of beans, peas, radishes, kohlrabi, cabbage, lettuce, celery, cauliflower, sunflowers favorably affects cucumbers. You can sow a few radish seeds around the cucumber hole and forget about it. Let it grow and bloom for itself, let it scare away harmful insects (cucumber beetle, for example), and attract useful ones.
Some weeds add energy to cucumbers: quinoa, gauze, sow thistle, tansy. The neighborhood of tall plants that give a light shade is useful for cucumbers. Shiritsa sacrificially entices the caterpillars that gnaw the roots.
Parsnip. An infusion of parsnip leaves and roots is an excellent spray against many insects. It is both a repellent and an insecticide (it can not only repel, but also kill insects). Parsnips themselves have almost no problems with pests and diseases.
Parsnip is frost-resistant and can overwinter in the soil. Flowering (in the second year) parsnips are attractive to beneficial insects. He is a good companion for radishes. Peas and other legumes help him grow.
Pepper. Pepper is good with basil - they render each other mutual services.
Pepper gets along well with okra, which shelters the fragile stems of pepper from the wind, and the fruits from the sun.
Aphids from pepper can be repelled by onions, tansy, coriander, catnip, marigolds. You can use nasturtium as a trap.
It is advisable to avoid proximity to beans, which, like peppers, are affected by anthracnose (black soft spots appear on the fruits).
Tomatoes. When creating companies with tomatoes, one must keep in mind both potato (and tomato too) enemies: the Colorado potato beetle and late blight. The beetle, however, is not so scary. He attacks tomatoes rarely, in case of obvious provocation. To do this, for example, you need to plant tomatoes next to potatoes - then the beetle will easily move from drying potato tops to tomatoes. Or you just need to be unlucky and during the drying of the potato tops, a steady wind from the tomatoes blew on the potato beds.
Late blight is worse. When ideal conditions are created for late blight epiphytosis, it inevitably comes. Of course, something can be achieved with prevention, for example, a blown "bottom" and mulch. But more often you have to resort to Oprahpeeling - garlic infusion or biological products (phytosporin, EM-5, Radiance, etc.)
Let's get back to tomatoes. They are compatible with carrots, parsley, onions, garlic, chaivis, borage and many flowers, in particular with cosmos. Garlic protects tomatoes from spider mites. Basil improves the growth and taste of tomatoes, increases their resistance to diseases, and repels the horned worm. Stinging and deaf nettles improve the taste and growth of tomatoes (you can make an infusion of nettle tops to feed tomatoes). In small quantities, amaranth is useful.
Tomato leaves contain solanine, and an infusion of the leaves can be used to protect roses and gooseberries from black spot.
Root secretions of tomatoes are harmful to apricots. Do not plant corn and tomatoes next to each other.
Beet. Beets grow well with onions, carrots, lettuce, radishes, and any cabbage except cauliflower. She is not harmed by some shading, which, for example, Brussels sprouts can give. Curly beans and mustard are unpleasant for beets as neighbors.
Sprinkling beets with infusions of mint or catnip, you can rid it of a flea. The flea, however, brings beets only "cosmetic" damage. Worse with aphids. If aphid colonies have appeared on the beets, they can cause noticeable damage to it. Infusions of mint and catnip are suitable against aphids, but more effective is a decoction of rhubarb leaves or garlic infusion. Especially carefully it is necessary to look after the beets, growing next to Brussels sprouts, adored by aphids more than all vegetables. By the way, some birds like aphids - sparrows, titmouse, finches, nuthatch.
Beet varieties with a short growing season are especially valuable for creating melange. Such beets can be sown in the summer on the vacated areas. Since summer beets grow root crops in the autumn months, at a lower temperatureround, it is more tender and sweeter than the one sown in spring. And such beets are stored better.
Celery. Celery grows well with leeks, tomatoes, cabbage, bush beans. Earthworms like to gather in the roots of celery: to encourage them, you can sow celery in a circle, creating a semblance of a house for the worms.
Celery loves shade. In it, it grows more fragrant.
Soy. Like all legumes, soybeans loosen and enrich the soil. Suppresses weeds. Grows well with many plants, in particular wheat.
Corn benefits greatly from the company of soy. Soy repels corn bugs. Volatile substances released by soybean leaves stimulate the absorption of phosphorus by corn. And with the help of nodule bacteria, soybeans feed corn with nitrogen.
Pumpkin. Pumpkin grows well with corn. Helps the pumpkin fightradish planted around the hole by the parents. Good in this role and nasturtium. Contribute to better growth of gauze, quinoa, sow thistle (of course, not in debilitating quantities).
Beans. Beans are good with a little celery. It grows wonderfully with cucumbers, intertwining with them to mutual pleasure. Useful beans in strawberries. She helps corn, pumpkin. The radish company is mutually beneficial. Like peas, beans growing with potatoes repel the Colorado potato beetle and wireworm. By the way, 2-3 rows of beans planted around the perimeter of the garden protect it from the wireworm in case there are abandoned and weedy areas nearby.
Carrots help beans grow. A wonderful pair is formed by beans and savory. Both have an improved taste, pests do not find their way to them.
Curly beans are bad with beets, kohlrabi, sunflowers. All onions and gladioli oppress the beans.
Garlic. Unusually good garlic in a companion garden. It repels slugs, all kinds of caterpillars, even moles.
Garlic makes an excellent universal infusion, effective in the fight against aphids, spider mites, late blight. It saves cucumbers, radishes, spinach, beans from some fungal diseases. Mistresses have long been putting garlic cloves in grain, flour, and cereals.
It is good to surround fruit trees with garlic, protecting them from borers, and roses, protecting them from black spot. Garlic grows magnificently in the company of many plants (even with a very allelopathic vetch!). An irreplaceable neighbor for strawberries, which suffer more than others from slugs. And only peas and beans with garlic are bad - it inhibits their growth.
Based on the materials of the book by B.A. Bagel "Melange garden"
