Foundation blind area: purpose, structure, types and their implementation, insulation, nuances. Concrete blind area around the house - how to make it yourself Making a blind area at home

In force geological features, the house is exposed to external factors not only from the atmosphere, but also from the soil. Installing a blind area around the house is one of the stages of comprehensive protection that allows you to protect the building from the manifestations of nature (rain, melt, groundwater). The roof and drainage system protect the walls and the house itself from water, but precipitation flows onto the ground near the building and destroys the foundation. What is a blind area? Why do you need a foundation blind area, what is its purpose and how to do it yourself?

What is a blind area at home

A blind area is a covering around the perimeter of a house, designed to protect the foundation, basement and basement from water. It is made of waterproof material at a slope from the foundation.

Why do you need a blind area around the house (functions):

• hydrobarrier - protecting the foundation of a building from moisture. First of all, rain and melt water are diverted away from the foundation using a blind area. In addition, the presence of a blind area imparts thermal insulation properties to the foundation;

• comfort - the blind area can be used as a path around the house. A wide blind area can become the basis for arranging a recreation area or terrace near the house. With the correct calculation of the load, it is possible to organize the movement of a car or its parking along the blind area;

• aesthetics - design of the site and local area, giving the structure completeness.

• the blind area stabilizes the air-gas regime in the soil surrounding the foundation. The soil invariably contains oxygen, which is necessary for plant growth and the vital activity of soil microorganisms. Large pests also create passages for air to enter the soil;

• eliminates the possibility of damage to the foundation due to frost heaving of soils. It occurs due to the fact that water, solidifying in the soil during the cold season, increases its volume. Soil heaving in itself does not pose any threat, but creates a significant lateral load on the foundation of a house, which may result in a distortion of the foundation of the house, which will ultimately lead to the destruction of the building standing on it. Thus, the blind area allows you to distribute the load more evenly.

Types of blind areas around the house

Taking into account the fact that the period of operation of the blind area should be equal to the period of operation of the structure itself, special attention should be paid to the choice of material for its construction.

In practice, several approaches to making a blind area are used, but in general it is classified as either hard or soft.

Rigid blind area

1. Concrete blind area

The blind area is made of concrete in the vast majority of cases. Concrete is a reliable material, time-tested and proven by more than one generation of users. Almost every man has an idea of ​​how to make a concrete blind area. And knowing the nuances of pouring it, he can do the work with his own hands.

It is mostly used to protect the foundations of multi-story buildings. This is caused by two factors. Firstly, it is difficult to compact the material (considerable effort is required). Secondly, to keep the asphalt in a condition suitable for pouring, its temperature should be about 120 degrees. Agree, it is difficult to make a blind area from asphalt without special equipment. Thirdly, when heated, asphalt emits harmful impurities, and therefore few users are ready to replace clean air country house, for a typically urban scent.

3. Blind area made of ceramic tiles

It belongs to the category of hard because the tiles are laid on a concrete mortar. Used as facing material clinker tiles, as more resistant to external influences. This blind area copes well with its functions, but the cost of clinker tiles is high. Therefore, its analogue, concrete paving slabs, has become more widespread.

Soft blind area

4. Blind area made of paving slabs (paving stones)

A relatively new direction in protecting foundations from water. Despite the novelty of the material (or rather, the old one, since it is a prototype of paving stones - a cheaper analogue), laying paving slabs with your own hands does not cause any particular difficulties.

5. Blind area made of gravel (crushed stone) or natural stone

The gravel blind area (made of cobblestones, rubble stones) has not become popular for several reasons: the difficulty of compaction, the inconvenience of movement, the need to constantly correct the coating (it can be washed away by unorganized drainage), and the possibility of weeds sprouting. Stone blind area - good option, but more complex installation and high cost compared to tiles.

6. Hidden blind area around the house

In this case, the front material is the soil on which you can plant lawn grass, flowers, arrange flower beds. A blind area of ​​a hidden type is made according to the general principle: it is removed top layer ground, covered with a layer of waterproofing, a layer of sand and crushed stone. The difference is that the top of the pie is covered with geotextile or PVP membrane, on top of which soil is poured. It is not advisable to walk on a hidden blind area; there is a risk of damaging the profiled membrane and trampling the grass. But, if done correctly, it will serve faithfully for a long time.

Which blind area is better - made of paving slabs or concrete?

Each of the above types of blind area has its own advantages, disadvantages and construction features. According to statistics and reviews, today the most popular (most often used) blind areas are poured from concrete and laid out from tiles. Therefore, it would be correct within the article to consider what is better, concrete or paving slabs for the blind area?

This question is asked by many craftsmen and users. Practical operating experience indicates the effectiveness of the tiles. The advantages are as follows:

• the ability to create a continuous, strong and stable blind area. At the same time, ensuring the integrity of a concrete blind area is much more difficult than a tiled one;

• maintainability. The tiles can be dismantled completely or partially. Thus, the process of repairing a blind area or laying communications is significantly simplified. In the case of concrete, it is necessary to destroy part of the blind area, dispose of the concrete fractions, and restore it again after laying. Eliminating tile subsidence or replacing a defective element in a tile blind area is not difficult and will not take much time. And most importantly, the tiles can be reused;

• reliability. The tiled blind area drains water well thanks to a large number seams. This allows us to assert that it does not deform as a result of soil heaving or water freezing. Water that has frozen on the surface of a concrete blind area can lead to local cracking of the material. At first, these cracks will not pose a threat, but each subsequent flooding will cause the crack to expand and the blind area to collapse.

  Another nuance is the location where the blind area adjoins the house. As you know, the blind area should not form single design from the foundations (should not be connected to it). Soil movement and freeze/thaw cycles will inevitably cause this bond to break. When laying tiles it is easier to ensure the required technological gap. In addition, the destruction of concrete most often occurs precisely at the place where it adjoins the foundation or plinth (the blind area comes off);

• foundation insulation. The technology for laying paving slabs involves the arrangement of several layers, incl. the use of clay and the possibility of laying insulation. An insulated foundation blind area is an additional protection for the basement and ground floor, which reduces heat loss and ultimately leads to savings on heating the house;

• reduction in plinth height. With a rigid blind area (made of concrete), the minimum height of the plinth should be at least 500 mm. When soft (tiles, paving stones, gravel, natural stone) a height of 300 mm will be sufficient. This reduces the cost of installing a plinth;

• ease of work, no need for a reinforcing frame, minimum waste, minor dustiness of the work;

• additional waterproofing of the foundation blind area. While the concrete blind area protects the foundation only from the influence surface waters(rain or melt), a clay hydraulic lock, which is made by forming a cushion for laying paving slabs, allows you to protect the base of the building from groundwater;

• more aesthetically pleasing appearance compared to a concrete blind area. A variety of installation options, designs, sizes and colors allows you to create a unique blind area.

The main advantage that led to the use of concrete as a material for the blind area is its low cost. Buying paving slabs and materials for laying them will cost more, even if you do the installation yourself.

Cost of blind area of ​​a private house

In order not to be unfounded, we will give a brief comparative description, i.e. We will indicate in the table the prices for blind areas made of concrete and paving slabs. All prices for 2015, approximate, are presented for information purposes as a guideline for drawing up estimates.

The cost of a concrete blind area (width 1 m, thickness 10 cm)

* we are talking about additives (plasticizers) that give concrete additional properties(strength, frost resistance). Adding plasticizers to the composition concrete mortar is at the discretion of the master. In the “classic” recipe given, their cost is not taken into account.

** to form the formwork when pouring a blind area, in practice, old boards or used plywood are used. Therefore, their cost is also taken into account.

The cost of a blind area made of paving slabs 1 meter wide

How long does it take to install a blind area?

An important point, based on the experience of constructing blind areas of various types, we can give the approximate time for the construction of each of them. The calculation was made based on the total time spent by one person on making a blind area of ​​50 square meters.

• Completion of all work on preparing the base, forming the formwork and pouring the concrete blind area takes approximately 40-50 minutes. per 1 sq.m. (20-25 minutes when using ready-made concrete).

• Filling the pillow and laying tiles 1 sq.m. takes 60-70 minutes. Moreover, a significant amount of time is spent on the process of compacting the base.

It should be noted that with an increase square meters(area) the speed of work increases.

How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands - video

Construction of a blind area for a house - SNiP and GOST

The second aspect that needs to be taken into account before you start building a blind area with your own hands is the provisions and recommendations regulatory documents. These include:

GOST 9128-97. Mixtures of asphalt concrete road, airfield and asphalt concrete. Contains recommendations on determining the angle of inclination of the blind area.

GOST 7473-94. Concrete mixtures. They contain requirements for the quality of concrete used for arranging the blind area. Required when arranging a blind area that serves as a driveway for a car.

SNiP 2.04.02-84. Water supply. External networks and structures. SNiP regulates the construction of a blind area around a well, contains recommendations for choosing the angle of inclination, as well as for arranging a castle made of clay or rich loam.

SNiP 2.02.01-83 Foundations of buildings and structures. Regulates the main parameters of the blind area device (dimensions):

1. Width of the blind area around the house (foundation)

Determined from the position of soil type. As you know, soil with different compositions subsides differently. For example, clay soil is divided into two types:

• Type 1 soil does not sag under its own weight or its subsidence is no more than 50 mm and can be caused by external factors.

• Type 2 soil can sag under its own weight.

Thus, based on soil data, the composition and thickness of the base layers for laying paving slabs is selected. Based on the provisions of SNiP, craftsmen determine how wide the blind area around the house should be.

It has been verified by practice that for type 1 soil the minimum width of the blind area should be at least 700 mm, for type 2 - at least 1,000 mm.

If there is normal soil on the site, the optimal width of the blind area can be 800-1,000 mm. In this case, the width can be considered sufficient if it is greater than the overhang roofing material over load-bearing walls by 200 mm (for normal soil) and 600 mm for clay soil Type 2.

The final decision on how wide the foundation blind area should be depends on the users and the purpose of the blind area. Which may consist of the following: only foundation protection, protection + occasional human movement, protection + heavy pedestrian traffic (for example, a terrace or gazebo) or protection + car traffic.

Such parameters as the length and height (thickness) of the blind area are not regulated by SNiP. Users advise taking them as:

2. Length of the blind area around the house

3. Thickness (height) of the blind area around the house

Minimum thickness of the blind area: no less than 70 mm, optimally 100-150 mm.

Note. The height of the blind area is not determined to zero. It should rise above the soil by at least 50 mm.

For the blind area that serves as a pedestrian zone, the requirements are becoming more stringent. They mainly concern the design of the pillow. For the automobile zone, it is advisable to make the most durable base possible and, when choosing paving slabs, give preference not to vibratory-cast slabs, but to vibro-pressed ones.

SNiP III-10-75 Landscaping. The standard regulates the installation location of the blind area. It should fit tightly to the base at an angle. At the same time, the slope of the blind area should be within 1-10% in the direction opposite to the load-bearing wall.

4. Slope of the blind area of ​​the house

The angle of inclination of the blind area is measured in percentages and degrees. For 1 m of blind area width, the slope should be 10-100 mm, i.e. 1-10%. In practice, the slope does not exceed 15-20 mm per 1 linear meter. This slope is invisible visually, but does an excellent job of draining water from the foundation and base of the house.

Note. A large slope can lead to the fact that the flow of water will increase speed when moving along the blind area and, gaining strength, quickly destroy its outer edge.

Another document worth considering is the “Schemes operational control quality of construction, repair and construction and installation work" Based on it, you can study the permissible deviations from the given standards.

5. Expansion joint in the blind area (deformation, temperature)

To compensate for the movement of the blind area and reduce the pressure on the foundation, a device is provided expansion joint– the gap between the wall (basement) and the blind area. A thermal seam is formed by installing a sheet of insulation or several layers of roofing felt to a vertical surface. Sometimes at the junction they install wooden board, which is then removed, and the place where it is installed is sealed (covered) with sand. This is a labor-intensive method, because removing a board from hardened concrete is quite difficult.

Conclusion

The information provided from the theoretical part will become a useful basis for constructing a blind area around the house with your own hands. Knowing how to properly make a blind area, you can be sure that the created structure will last a long time and effectively.

A reliable, time-tested way to protect the foundation from the effects of surface water is to install a concrete blind area around the house. The undoubted advantage of a concrete blind area is its low cost and ease of manufacture.

100% protection from moisture, which is provided by a concrete blind area with a complete coating, cannot be guaranteed by any material (without arranging a multi-tiered “pie”). The condition of the foundation directly affects the position of the entire structure. Therefore, the foundation needs major protection.

This is exactly what it is main task blind area - protection of the foundation and base of the house. In addition to the barrier, it performs several other functions. For example, it allows you to organize more convenient movement along the blind area and gives the building a finished appearance.

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly make a blind area around a concrete house with your own hands. We propose to divide all the stages of arrangement into theoretical and applied.

• In the first part, we will look at what you need to know and prepare before getting started.

• In the second - how to prepare the bed and properly pour the concrete blind area.

Requirements for the blind area and rules for its construction

• width of concrete blind area, according to SNiP 2.02.01-83 should be 200 mm. more than the overhang of roofing material. If there is a drain, its parameters are also taken into account. The same SNiP regulates the width depending on the type of soil. The traditional (optimal) width of the blind area can be considered 1 meter. This width provides freedom of movement and acts as a path around the house;

• length. Since the foundation needs protection along the entire perimeter of the house, it is logical that the blind area should also completely surround the building. The only exception may be the installation site of a concrete porch;

• depth or level of penetration of the blind area should not exceed half of the calculated soil freezing depth characteristic of a particular region. This parameter can be viewed in the table or you can request information from the architecture department at the location of the object.

  The ability of a concrete blind area to move with the soil gives it its functions. Otherwise, its role will be reduced to draining water, which is not enough to protect the foundation.

  Note. The depth of freezing is affected by the presence of communications in the ground.

• concrete blind area thickness. The minimum thickness of the surface layer is 70-100 mm. If increased operational load is planned, for example, vehicle movement, the thickness can reach up to 150 mm;

• slope of the blind area. SNiP III-10-75 recommends what the slope should be - from 10 to 100 mm per 1 meter of width (i.e. 1-10%). The angle of inclination is directed in the direction opposite to the foundation of the house. Slope requirements depend on regional rainfall levels and soil type. In practice, the slope is taken to be 20-30 mm per 1 m (2-3 degrees). If you do more, then in case of icing, it will be difficult to move along such a blind area;

• border. In the case of a blind area, the border is a decorative element and the decision to install it is made based on the preferences of the home owner and his financial capabilities. However, if bushes are planted in the immediate vicinity of the blind area - “root aggressors” (raspberries, blackberries) or trees that have a powerful superficial root system (poplar, sycamore), then installing a limiter is mandatory;

• plinth height. The standards establish a minimum plinth height of 500 mm for a hard type blind area and a minimum of 300 mm for a soft type. Let us remind you that the blind area around a concrete house is of the rigid type;

• height of the blind area from ground level. It is desirable that the blind area be 50 mm higher above the ground level. This recommendation is due to the fact that water should not accumulate on the edge of the blind area and turn into puddles. IN winter time- this is fraught with freezing and, accordingly, destruction of the structure.

• concrete blind area design has a specific device diagram, which is shown in the drawing below.

Armed with the above data, you can proceed directly to the installation of a concrete foundation blind area.

How to make a concrete blind area around a house

Preparation of material:

• concrete for blind area. Grade is an indicator of the quality of concrete; its value ranges from 100 to 1000. It indicates the proportion of cement content in concrete. The concrete class ranges from B3.5 to B8 and indicates the strength of concrete. Thus, class B 15 indicates that a concrete cube measuring 15x15x15 cm is capable of withstanding a pressure of 15 MPa.

What brand of concrete is needed for the blind area? To prepare the solution, use cement grade M 200 (class B15).

The parameters (properties) of concrete depending on the brand are shown in the table.

• sand. Which one do you need? River or quarry sand is suitable for making the bottom layer of the pillow. The main thing is that it does not contain large impurities that can damage geotextiles;

• crushed stone (gravel). Crushed stone of fraction 10-20 is suitable for the blind area;

• clay or geotexil for hydraulic locking. In practice, this layer is absent in the base cushion, because concrete drains water well;

• cement for ironing.

Composition of concrete mortar for blind area

If it is not possible to use ready-made concrete, you can mix it yourself. To do this you need to prepare:

• cement for blind area. You should know that the grade of concrete is determined by the grade of cement and its specific gravity as a percentage of the components of the solution. For the blind area, cement M400 Portland cement is used. The cement must be fresh; with each month of storage it loses 5% of its properties. It’s easy to check the freshness; just squeeze a little cement in your fist; if it shrinks into a lump, its shelf life is running out; if it crumbles freely, you can work with it;

Note. What cement is best for blind areas? Naturally fresh and of high quality. This will save on cement consumption and prepare a good concrete solution.

• sand. To prepare concrete, you need to take concrete that has been sifted and washed to remove impurities and soil;

• crushed stone It is advisable to use crushed stone of a fraction of 5-10 mm. At the same time, crushed stone is better than, for example, small pebbles;

• water. Should be at room temperature;

• additives. They are needed to give concrete frost-resistant properties. Liquid glass is often used as an additive.

The tools you will need are a concrete mixer or a mixing container, a shovel, a bucket (it’s better to take a plastic one, it’s easier to clean), a measuring container (for water), a hand-tamping log or a vibrating plate.

Preparation of concrete mortar for blind area

In practice, the solution for the blind area is prepared in portions, after all preparatory work. We will provide a ready-made recipe for cement mortar and how to mix it correctly.

The composition of the concrete solution includes: cement, crushed stone, sand, water and various additives that increase its strength. The durability and strength of the blind area depends on the ratio (proportions) of these components.

Note. Components are measured by weight only.

Proportions of solution for blind area

Note. 1 cubic meter of sand is on average equal to 1600 kg, 1 cubic meter of crushed stone is on average equal to 1500 kg.

Depending on the brand of concrete, the proportions will differ. SNiP 82-02-95 regulates the composition of the mixture for producing concrete of a certain grade.

The concrete mixture is very demanding on the amount of water supplied. Its excess reduces the strength of concrete, because removes cement flour to the top layer of the solution. This leads to the fact that the strength is distributed unevenly. In practice, it is calculated that water should be approximately half the amount of cement. More accurate data is contained in the table (water-cement ratio (W/C) for concrete).

The order in which the components are added to the solution also matters. Cement is first poured into a mixing container or concrete mixer and water is added. By mixing, the so-called cement laitance is obtained. Next, the remaining components are added to it. First, sand is poured in small portions, and then crushed stone (gravel).

Note. Professionals advise maintaining an interval of 5 minutes. between feeding components. This way the mixture mixes better.

Technology for constructing a blind area made of concrete with insulation

Step by step instructions:

Preparing the base for the blind area. To do this, the top layer of soil is removed, all roots, stones, etc. are removed. Using a blanket herbicide will eliminate activity under the substrate. For example, the drugs Agrokiller or Tornado.

Advice. Considering that the blind area must exceed the edge of the roof slope by 200 mm, it is recommended to use a plumb line to accurately mark the boundary of the blind area.

Marking. To do this, we pull the rope onto the stakes hammered in the corners. To avoid sagging of the rope, you need to install intermediate stakes (at a distance of 5-6 m from each other).

Advice. How to determine the required angle of inclination of the blind area? Craftsmen install additional beacons (stretch a rope) on the base of the house. Fastening is done every 1-1.5 meters.

Hydraulic lock device. To do this, lay fatty clay in a layer of 100-150 mm or cover the bottom with geotextiles (roofing felt, PVC film, advertising banner, etc.). Please note that to prevent the film from tearing, it is better to pour a 50-100 mm layer of sand onto the bottom of the trench. A layer of sand of the same thickness is also poured on top of the film. The sand is leveled, moistened and compacted. In the case of a hydraulic lock made of clay sand layer only one. When laying the film, you should avoid tension. It must be able to move freely with the ground.

Note. Experts advise making high-quality drainage near the hydraulic lock. To do this, you need to dig a trench 100 mm deep and 200 mm wide and fill it with crushed stone or lay a drainage pipe in it, wrap it with geotextiles and fill it with crushed stone. This will increase the rate of water drainage.

It is worth noting that many people ignore this stage of work. In practice, this attitude results in the fact that the water passing through the expansion joint goes directly under the foundation, and when it freezes, it leads to an increase in pressure on it.

Backfilling of crushed stone. The layer thickness varies from 50 to 100 mm. The gravel is leveled and compacted. Since crushed stone is difficult to compact, some recommend using a special grid for laying it, which is used in landscape design for making gravel paths. We note right away that this will increase the cost of the blind area without much need.

Backfilling with sand.

Laying communication pipes. To do this, a depression is made in the sand for pipes and storm drains.

Insulation of the blind area. Expanded polystyrene or penoplex is laid on the compacted sand with which crushed stone and communications are covered. Only hard insulation is suitable for the blind area, but it is afraid of point loads, so it must be laid on a sand cushion.

Advice. Cold bridges can be eliminated by laying insulation in two offset layers.

Reinforcement of concrete blind area. Done by laying reinforcing mesh with cells 50x50 or 100x100 mm or knitting of the reinforcement frame is done.

Advice. Chain-link mesh is not suitable for reinforcement - it is too flexible.

If insulation is not intended, the reinforcing mesh is laid directly on the crushed stone to a height of 20-30 mm. Which will contribute to better distribution of concrete.

Formwork installation. Boards or plywood are installed strictly according to level. To level out the pushing force of concrete, the formwork is reinforced with stakes that are installed on its outer side. During installation, do not forget that the formwork is removable, which means that all seams will be visible after its dismantling. In this case, the blind area will have an ugly appearance. Therefore, when installing boards, you need to ensure that the internal seams are invisible.

Construction of expansion joints. To do this we install wooden slats, boards (on edge), which are pre-treated with an antiseptic or tarred. The recommended distance between the expansion joints of the blind area is 2-2.5 meters. Expansion joints must be made diagonally in the place where the formwork turns (at the corners). The purpose of the expansion joint is to compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete during operation. They are installed level, taking into account the angle of inclination of the formwork, because When pouring concrete, they are guided by them. An alternative to wood can be Guerlain butyl rubber tapes (10 RUR/m) or a hydro-swelling elastic cord, for example, Penebar Rapid SW45 A/B.

How to seal the seams in the blind area?

According to reviews, those who ignored the formation of expansion joints had cracks after the first winter. Many people believe that wood swells and allows moisture to pass through. You can seal the resulting cracks with special sealants, such as TEKTOR 103 mastic (225 rubles/piece), ISOSEAL P-40 (280 rubles/piece).

Pouring a concrete blind area. When pouring concrete, you need to ensure that no air pockets are formed and that the cement mixture evenly fills the entire space. It is important that no bumps or depressions appear when pouring. Their presence will lead to stagnation of water in these places. If it is not possible to do the entire blind area at one time, part of it is poured, and then work is resumed.

Advice. When pouring a blind area, you can use a technique for uniform distribution of concrete - bayoneting. To do this, the concrete is “pierced” with a rod, and the solution fills the entire space.

How to properly pour a concrete blind area around a house - video

Protection of concrete blind area from destruction

Many people are interested in how to cover the concrete blind area around the house. After all, in mandatory After pouring the solution, the blind area must be protected from heaving, deformation, destruction, and exposure to moisture, rain, and snow. Let's consider how and what is the best way to do this.

Ways to protect the foundation blind area:

Ironing of concrete blind area around the house

How to iron a blind area with your own hands?

• Dry ironing method - freshly poured concrete is sprinkled with a layer of cement (2 mm) followed by grouting. Dry cement binds to the concrete mortar and increases its ability to withstand the effects of water.

• Wet ironing method - 12-14 days after pouring (when the concrete has dried), you need to walk over the surface of the blind area with a cement-sand mortar (1:1) with the addition of lime paste (10% of the volume of the mixture).

Coating the blind area with a primer

Deep penetration primers, such as AURA Unigrund KRAFT (90 rubles), are suitable for this. Primer solutions are used when it is planned additional finishing. For example, tiling or painting. If this is not in your plans, it is better to use a water repellent, for example, Eskaro Aquastop Waterproof W (1200 rubles) or GKZh-11 (195 rubles/5 l). Concrete hardeners such as Monopol 1 (1,600 rubles/5 kg), Monolit-20M (1,200 rubles/10 l), Protexil (3,600 rubles/20 l) or Ashford Formula ($120/10 l) are gaining popularity.

Protecting the blind area with liquid glass

A solution of liquid glass and cement is a more budget option protective composition(primer, water repellent), providing a similar result. A solution with liquid glass is prepared from a mixture of cement, water and liquid glass in a proportion (ratio) of 1:1:1.

Covering the blind area with a layer of enamel

The enamel must match certain parameters in terms of frost resistance, vapor permeability, moisture resistance, and environmental friendliness. Has proven itself to be excellent polyurethane enamel ELAKOR-PU (220 rub/kg).

Covering the blind area with tiles and stones

Lay tiles (ceramic, clinker, paving), pebbles or natural stone on top of the concrete blind area. In this case, concrete acts as a binding solution.

• It is advisable to install a storm drain near the blind area, which will drain the flowing water and prevent siltation of the area;

• To ensure uniform drying of the poured concrete, the blind area is covered with film. Thus, evaporated moisture will be retained on its surface. Since it is difficult to cover a wide blind area with film, it can be periodically moistened. The time until complete hardening with a blind area thickness of 100 mm is 1.5-2 weeks;

• After the concrete has completely dried, the blind area is removed. You should be careful here, because... Removing the blind area can lead to damage to the edges of the blind area.

This order of work and taking into account all these nuances guarantees the long-term full functioning of the concrete blind area.

Do-it-yourself concrete blind area around the house repair

The most common problems include:

The appearance of cracks in the blind area

How to repair cracks in the blind area?

Elimination depends on the depth of the damage (cracks, crevices, concrete breaks):

• no more than 1 mm. Self-healing is used. Such a crack does not pose a danger and is usually rubbed away by friction during walking;

• no more than 3 mm. Involves the use of “cement dough”. Shallow cracks can be sealed (filled) with a liquid cement solution (1 part cement to 1 part water);

• 3-30 mm. Such cracks are considered large. To eliminate them, you can use a special sealant such as the above-mentioned TEKTOR 103, ISOSEAL P-40. You can seal the crack with freshly prepared concrete mortar. However, before this the crack needs to be widened. In cross section it should resemble a cone. Apply primer over the entire area of ​​the crack. Any will do, for example, Ceresit ST-17 (450-500 rubles/10 l). Next, the solution is poured. You can use the so-called hydroseal, special solution based on cement, which hardens in 15 minutes. An example is Lugato 5-Minuten Mortel putty (410 RUR 5 kg)

• crack depth exceeding half the thickness of the blind area, this is already a cracking of concrete and refers to significant damage. It can only be eliminated by expansion followed by pouring new concrete.

Delamination of the surface of the blind area over the entire area

In the language of masters, this process is called concrete dusting or delamination (delamination). The reason for this phenomenon may be several factors. For example, uneven hardening of concrete happens if you pour concrete mortar onto a cold surface (observed when working in early spring) or make the blind area thicker. Increased air content in the concrete mixture. Excess of crushed stone parts in the concrete composition.

What to do if the concrete blind area crumbles?

If the process is just beginning, then the surface should be covered with “cement paste” or a composition that contains liquid glass (proportions: cement, water and liquid glass - 1: 1: 1).

If the damage has reached significant proportions, then radical measures must be taken:

1. determine the boundaries of the damage to prevent its spread;
2. cut out part of the concrete;
3. cover the edges of the blind area with a primer;
4. apply new layer solution;
5. cover with film until completely dry.

If you start it, you will have to completely dismantle the blind area and fill in a new one. The measures described above will help extend the life of the blind area and save on alterations and reconstruction.

Cost of work on installing a concrete blind area without material

And the last thing that interests everyone who wants to order the construction of a blind area is the prices for a concrete blind area. If you entrust the work to craftsmen, then the estimate must contain the costs of the work, which are presented in the table (approximate data as of the end of 2015)

Please note that it is unlikely that you will be able to negotiate a significant discount here. After all given price does not take into account the cost of materials. For a complete picture, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the cost of materials for the production of a concrete blind area per 1 m.

Conclusion

Agree, it’s a good incentive to make a concrete blind area with your own hands. Moreover, from the given instructions it is clear that this work does not require special tool, some special materials, just the desire to protect the foundation of the house with a reliable barrier.

Today we will continue the topic of the foundation and plinth of your house, or rather, we will “close it” with an article about how to build a concrete blind area correctly and inexpensively with your own hands for your home. We will look at the simplest and most inexpensive method of device concrete blind area(after all, our task is to build inexpensive house with your own hands, which is not inferior in reliability dear home. Remember?).

So what do we have? The construction of our house is completed: the roof - it's all finished. It's time to start building the blind area. In fact, the blind area can be made almost any time after the walls are laid. But the most optimal time In our opinion, this is when you begin the final exterior decoration of your home. If you plan to cladding the base, then the blind area should be done after this work has been completed.

Why do you need a blind area?

If you do not have enough funds for the final finishing of the house, then blind area We still recommend doing it. In any case, the blind area should be done before the cold weather. Then your house will “overwinter and welcome spring” without any problems.

And now - the main functions of the blind area:

1. Decorative effect, a sense of architectural completeness;
2. Except decorative element houses, blind area is protection of the foundation from external waters: melt water, rain. Retention of water, its diversion into storm sewer(this is what you plan to do) - the main task of the blind area;
3. In addition, the blind area allows you to reduce freezing of the soil underneath it, and, accordingly, around the house. Those. the blind area guards the heat of the house;
4. Reducing soil freezing entails reducing the likelihood of soil heaving. It is recommended to do this on swelling soils. True, we decided not to do this;
5. If there is no blind area and the soil comes close to the base, then in addition to excessive moisture, plant roots can also cause damage to the foundation.

How to make a blind area correctly?

The simplest option is a concrete blind area with a width of 60 cm, which surrounds your house on all sides.

In order for the blind area to fully fulfill its purpose, it is necessary to follow several basic rules:

• the width of the blind area should not match or be less overhang roofs. Minimum width of the blind area = roof overhang (eaves) + 20cm;
• the blind area should continuously encircle the entire house. Then the basement of the house (and ground floor) will be protected from moisture penetration;
• the wider the blind area, the better the function of protection against water penetration will be performed;
• the blind area should be performed with a slight slope. Minimum slope from the house towards the ground, which will ensure water drainage - 1.5 degrees. The slope may be greater. It depends on the base coating. The slope can be formed both at the stage of creating the underlying layer and at the stage of laying the coating. We will describe below what the underlying layer and coating are.

DIY concrete blind area

The durability of your foundation depends on the blind area, carried out according to all the rules, minimum expenses both money and time for repairing the foundation, basement and blind area and the absence of “headaches” after you have finished building your house with your own hands - and this is probably the most important thing!

The blind area is two structural layers:

• underlying layer. The main task is to create an even, compacted base for the coating. Material used: clay, sand, small crushed stone. The material for the underlying layer depends on the covering material. Thickness - up to 20mm;
• coating. The main task is water resistance and resistance to the destructive effects of water. Material used: clay (clay is a material that can be used as both an underlying layer and a coating), concrete, asphalt mixture, small cobblestones. Thickness - up to 10 cm.

This is true for any type of blind area. In this regard, we will tell you in what order the work should be performed for concrete blind area structures.

1. We carry out markings for the future blind area. ABOUT minimum width We described blind areas in this article above. The width of the blind area in our house is 100cm;
2. We remove and compact the soil around the perimeter of the building. Usually the soil is removed during the zero construction cycle. When constructing a blind area, you need to prepare the soil exactly for the width of the future blind area in accordance with the markings. In this case, you need to consider what material you will make the blind area from. For a concrete blind area, the soil must be removed to a depth of 20-25 cm - the depth “at the bayonet of a shovel”;
3. Sometimes it is recommended to treat the roots of plants under the removed soil with herbicides, which can subsequently cause harm to the blind area. This is at your discretion - we did not do this;
4. We make formwork from boards. For formwork we use boards 20mm thick. About how to make it correctly removable formwork from boards (the principle is the same), we described in the article;
5. Place a small layer of clay on the compacted soil. Level and compact the clay;
6. We lay a layer of sand 10 cm thick. The sand must be thoroughly compacted. To do this, it is effective to shed the sand with a layer of water. Don't overdo it - there's clay underneath! Compact the sand especially carefully near the foundation.
7. Now we lay crushed stone in a layer of 6-7 cm;
8. To strengthen the blind area, we reinforce it with reinforcement mesh (see photo) in increments of 100 mm. It is typical for concrete to withstand compressive loads. Reinforcement allows the blind area to also effectively withstand tensile loads;
9. At the junction of the blind area with the plinth, it is necessary to make a seam, which is called a compensation seam. It is also called deformation or temperature. The expansion joint will protect the base and blind area from destruction during soil subsidence. In this case, the blind area will sag or fall along the prepared seam without causing damage to the base. The width of the expansion joint is 1-1.5 cm. We fill this gap with a mixture of sand and fine gravel, bitumen, mastic or two layers of roofing material. Some builders use foamed polyethylene to fill the seam. The diameter of the tourniquet should be 25% larger than the width of the seam so that the tourniquet fits tightly into the gap. A special feature when laying a rope: its top should be at a depth equal to 1/2 the width of the seam. To make laying the bundle easier, you can use a piece of plywood. And although we talked about this method of filling an expansion joint, we did not use it ourselves. We used sealant;
10. When pouring a blind area with concrete across the blind area, an expansion (temperature) joint should be constructed every 2-3 meters (the distance depends on the likelihood of soil swelling). Expansion joints protect the concrete blind area from possible ruptures in winter. Wooden slats mounted on an edge are suitable for these purposes. The slats must be installed in such a way that they top surface coincided with the concrete surface. IMPORTANT! Consider the slope of the blind area! To protect the slats from rotting, we treated them with waste oil (used oil). Wooden slats can also be processed;
11. Expansion (temperature) joints must also be installed in the corners of the house;
12. We put and ;
13. Level the concrete base. Wooden slats pre-installed to create expansion joints play the role of beacons that should be followed when leveling the concrete;
14. It will give maximum strength to the formwork. Ironing done wet method will give the blind area for your home maximum moisture resistance;
15. And the final stage: concrete surface cover with a cloth, wetting it with water from time to time. This will keep the concrete from drying out until it is completely cured. If you are making a blind area during the rainy season, and this is exactly what happened to us, you can do without additional moisture. Daily rains will do their job;
16. In a week correct blind area made of concrete for your home.

Repair of concrete blind area

If you have properly completed the foundation, plinth and blind area for your home, you should not have problems for a long time.

However, it happens that cracks appear on the blind area or damage takes up a significant area. What to do in these cases?

1. Small cracks should be filled with liquid cement mortar (1:1 or 1:2);
2. More large cracks must be cut down to its full depth and cleaned of contaminants. Then fill the prepared cracks with mastic of the following composition: 70% bitumen BND-90/130 or BND-60/90, 10% crushed slag and 15% asbestos. Cracks filled with mastic should be sprinkled with sand.
3. If the damage to the concrete blind area is significant, it is necessary to restore it with fresh concrete. To do this, clean the surface to be repaired from dirt and prime it. Use for primer cement mortar(1:1 or 1:2). Then lay fresh mortar and level it. Next, you need to prevent the laid concrete from drying before it hardens. In other words, periodically moisten it or cover it with plastic wrap to prevent it from drying out.

IMPORTANT! It is more effective to repair the blind area in spring or autumn in cool weather. If you need to repair the blind area in the summer, choose the morning hours for this. During the day, under the influence of high temperatures, due to the expansion of concrete, the cracks will decrease. This will prevent you from completing your repair as efficiently as possible.

The blind area is designed to protect the foundation from damage that may result from contact with atmospheric moisture. Additionally, the blind area will protect the building from destructive impact roots of various plants. Many owners ignore the need to install this element completely in vain. You can make a blind area with your own hands, and thanks to this element, which is easy to construct, the service life of the building will significantly increase.

The blind area performs a number of important functions, including:

• security reliable protection the foundation of the house from the harmful effects of atmospheric moisture and other negative factors;
• diversion of any kind of water from the building into the drainage system. Special drainage gutters are installed in the surface of the blind area, thanks to which the risk of the base and base getting wet is significantly reduced;
• improvement appearance buildings. Thanks to the blind area, the foundation will look more harmonious and complete;
• additional insulation of the foundation. Given that proper arrangement all layers of the structure or the use of special thermal insulation materials, the soil close to the house will freeze much less;
• practicality. Quite often, a blind area is used as a convenient path around a building, along which you can move without causing harm to plants and other elements of the site’s landscape.

Thus, the blind area is a functional and aesthetic element that must be installed around your home. Study the instructions provided and you will be able to make a high-quality and reliable blind area with your own hands.

The design under consideration consists of covering (upper) and underlying (lower) layers. The underlying layer ensures a smooth surface. However, the base should not be 100% horizontal, but have some slope.

If concrete is used as the top layer, the bottom layer must be made horizontal. The slope will be created directly at the stage of pouring concrete. Thanks to the slope, quick and high-quality drainage of water from the facade of the building will be ensured.

At the end of the work, a drainage ditch is created along the outer edge of the perimeter of the blind area. The slope is usually maintained at a level of 5 cm per 1 m of blind area width.

The underlying and covering layers can be made of different materials. So, clay, crushed stone and gravel are suitable for arranging the bottom layer.

Practice shows that it is best to use crumpled clay as a base. This material initially has good waterproofing properties. The standard thickness of the bottom layer is 25-30 cm. If the base of the blind area is made of clay, it will be enough to equip a 15-20 cm layer of the substrate.

When using gravel or crushed stone, sand must be poured over the main part of the underlying layer. The thickness of a separate additional layer of sand should be 7-10 cm.

For the covering layer, use a hard and moisture-proof material. The most commonly used materials are concrete, natural stone, asphalt. Paving slabs and bricks are sometimes used.

Preparing for work

Before starting work, you need to decide on the basic parameters of the future blind area. First of all, set the appropriate width. Most regulatory documents indicate that the blind area must have a width of at least 60 cm. However, this is only the minimum recommended value. There are many additional important factors to consider before you finally select the appropriate width.

First of all, pay attention to the features eaves overhangs roofs of your house. The outer border of the blind area should be approximately 25-30 cm further than the most protruding edge of the roof eaves.

At the stage of designing a blind area, one cannot but take into account the architectural and design features Houses. For example, if the site is decorated using various kinds of unusual design elements, the blind area can also be given an original look by intelligently and organically connecting it with other landscape elements.

A very important parameter is the type of soil at the construction site. For example, if the house stands on subsiding soil, the width of the blind area should be at least 90-100 cm. Experts recommend that the blind area be more than 1 m wide. In such conditions, the structure in question will be able to simultaneously drain water and serve as a convenient path around the building.

It is important that the blind area is continuous. Any kind of rupture of the fabric can lead to a decrease in the protective functions of the blind area.

After determining the appropriate width, you will need to set the optimal slope of the blind area. In order for the structure to effectively cope with water drainage tasks, the slope must be at least 2-5 degrees in the direction from the house.

To determine exact value slope must also be taken into account climatic features, characteristic of the location of the house, and the type of material used to construct the top layer of the structure. For example, if the covering layer is made of paving slabs, the slope of the blind area can be slightly reduced compared to the same indicator for a structure made of crushed stone.

The slope itself can be created at the stage of laying the bottom layer or during the installation of the front covering. This point depends on what specific materials are used to construct the structure in question.

After defining optimal parameters systems, calculate required quantity materials and collect the required tools. At the stage of creating the underlying layer, you will need crushed stone and sand or clay.

The top layer of the blind area is most often made of concrete. If you decide to make your choice in favor of this material, first prepare a concrete mixer or container for preparing mortar, fittings and wire, several shovels, a level and other small accessories.

Step-by-step instructions for pouring a blind area

The process of constructing a blind area will be discussed using an example concrete structure. If you are a beginner, pay attention to this option, because... in most cases it is simpler to set up compared to others existing varieties blind area. Complete each step of the work and you will get a reliable, durable and efficient design.

First stage. Mark out the local area. It is enough to measure the selected distance from the walls of the house, drive pegs from any suitable material and connect these pegs with a rope. Make sure that the marking points are on the same line.

Second stage. Remove the soil over the entire area of ​​the blind area. The depth of the pit is selected individually, taking into account the type of system and the characteristics of the materials used. In most cases, the thickness of an ordinary concrete blind area is about 25 cm, excluding the front finish.

Third stage. Treat the plant roots at the bottom of the trench with special herbicides. Such treatment will not allow roots to grow in the future and disrupt the structure of the blind area.

Fourth stage. Assemble the formwork. As starting materials you can use unedged board And wooden blocks for supports. The thickness of the boards should be at least 2 cm. Install the boards along the outer border of the trench.

Fifth stage. Compact the bottom of the trench and place a 5 cm layer of clay on it. Thoroughly compact the clay, place a 10-centimeter layer of sand on top of it and tamp it down. For better compaction, the sand should be spilled with water. Place a layer of crushed stone on top of the sand.

Sixth stage. Place reinforcement bars on the prepared cushion. Maintain a step of 10-15 cm. As a result, you should get a reinforcing mesh. Tie the joints using steel wire. Thanks to reinforcement, the structure will have higher strength and resistance to various types of loads.

Seventh stage. At the junction of the blind area with the building, make an expansion joint. A 1.5 cm wide seam will be sufficient. Fill the seam space with a sand-gravel mixture or bitumen.

Eighth stage. Pour the concrete. Fill in one horizontal layer. Approximately every 230-250 cm, install transverse wooden slats. Thanks to them will be created expansion joints necessary for normal operation of the blind area. Select the slats so that they upper part was flush with the surface of the concrete structure. The slats should be pre-treated with an antiseptic.

Ninth stage. Carefully level the concrete and create the required slope before the mixture hardens.

Tenth stage. Cover the fill with wet burlap. As the fabric dries, it will need to be re-wetted with water. This will prevent the concrete mortar from cracking.

After about 3-4 weeks, the concrete will completely dry and gain the necessary strength. If you wish, you can lay porcelain tiles on the dried blind area, paving slabs or other suitable material.

Thus, in self-construction there is nothing complicated about the blind area. All costs are reduced to purchase costs building materials. Follow the instructions and you can do everything as well as a professional builder.

Happy work!

Video - DIY blind area step by step instructions

Even the strongest foundation is eventually exposed to moisture, which gradually reduces the load on the drainage system of the house, as well as on vertical waterproofing. To prevent this from happening, make a concrete blind area with your own hands, step-by-step instructions for which will be discussed in the article.

Concrete blind area is a necessary coating to protect the foundation

In addition to its main function (protection from interaction with moisture), this coating also allows you to create a pedestrian zone around the perimeter of the house and give the architectural appearance of the building a complete look.

However, before you fill the blind area, you need to pay attention to its design features and requirements for construction projects this type.

Design of the blind area

The concrete blind area has quite simple design, for the preparation of which the following materials will be required:

1. Bedding (pillow). This is done before pouring the solution. The most suitable materials are used as bedding different materials: coarse or medium sand, sand and gravel mixture, crushed stone, fine gravel. The foundation area cannot be laid on fine sand due to the possibility of shrinkage, since in this case there is a risk that the base will crack. It is best to prepare a two-layer cushion: first lay gravel or crushed stone, which will compact the soil, and then sand.
2. Reinforcement. The presence of reinforcing mesh for a concrete blind area will give the structure more strength. The cell size of this product is usually 30 x 30 or 50 x 50 cm. The mesh diameter should be about 6-8 mm, but it all depends on the type of soil.
3. Formwork. Wooden guides located along the perimeter of the coating are required, as they will prevent the concrete mixture from spreading. The width of the formwork boards is usually 20-25 mm.
4. Concrete solution. The blind area is poured using a specific concrete mixture composition.

The brand of solution must be carefully selected, since the strength and durability of the entire structure will depend on its quality and characteristics. For such a coating, Mixture M 200 is usually used, the strength class of which is no less than B 15 (you can purchase more high brand). It is also worth paying attention to the frost resistance of the composition, which should not be less than F 50. To ensure better resistance to changes temperature conditions, it is recommended to give preference to formulations with an F index of 100.

To get high-quality coating, it is most profitable to produce concrete mixture on your own.

Making a concrete mixture for the blind area of ​​a house

To organize a concrete blind area around the house it is not necessary to buy ready mixture and order expensive delivery by concrete mixer. Knowing the proportions of the components, you can make M 200 concrete yourself, for this you will need:

• 1 part cement (the optimal one is Portland cement 400);
• 3 parts sand (preferably medium, but fine-grained will do);
• 4 parts of coarse aggregate (gravel or crushed stone);
• ½ part water.

Accordingly, to get 1 cubic meter of concrete you need to mix:

• 280 kg of cement;
• 1100 kg of crushed stone;
• 800 kg of sand;
• 190 liters of water.

Also using PC 400, you can get other brands.

Healthy! First of all, cement and water are mixed, and only after the composition is homogeneous, sand and gravel are added to it.

To ensure that the design of the blind area is strong and the concreting is durable, certain rules and requirements are provided.

Design requirements

To fill the blind area of ​​a house with concrete, you need to familiarize yourself with the regulations and recommendations of SNiP:

• The width of the blind area should be 20 cm greater than the roof overhang (SNiP 2.02.01-83). If the structure has a drain, then its indicators are also taken into account. The optimal value is 1 meter. In this case, you can lay a tile path around the house.
• The length of the blind area around the house, made with your own hands, must correspond to the perimeter of the building. However, if you plan to install a concrete porch, then a “break” is allowed.
• Depth. The depth of the “tape” is half the calculated freezing depth of the ground.
• The thickness of the concrete blind area is also regulated by SNiP and, according to these requirements, should be at least 7-10 cm for the top layer. However, many people make concrete parking spaces for personal cars along with the blind area. In this case, the operational load increases, and the thickness of the concrete blind area can reach up to 15 cm.

• Slope. According to SNiP III-10-75, the slope should be from 1 to 10 cm for each meter of width. Most often it is 2-3 cm per meter - this is approximately 2-3 degrees. The angle of inclination must be directed in the direction opposite to the foundation. It is not recommended to increase the slope, since in this case it will be difficult to walk along such a path in winter, when ice forms on the surface.
• Border. The installation of a blind area for a house does not include the mandatory production of a border, so in this case the decision is made by the owners of country property. However, experts recommend installing such “limiters” if trees and shrubs with an “aggressive” root system (blackberries, raspberries, plane trees, poplars and others) grow near the foundation.
• Base height. For a hard type covering (concrete), the base must be at least 50 cm.
• The recommended height of the blind area above ground level is 5 cm or more.

There are also several schemes according to which a blind area of ​​crushed stone can be erected in the form of a monolithic concrete covering both for the usual type of soil and for the “problematic” one.

Knowing the SNiP requirements and features suburban area, you can make a blind area with your own hands using step by step instructions, given below.

We make the blind area ourselves

The technology for constructing a blind area includes several stages that even a beginner in construction work can handle.

Preparation

To begin creating a protective coating around your home, prepare:

• pickaxe;
• twine;
• roulette;
• tamper;
• pegs for marking;
• waterproof film (geotextile);
• concrete mixture;
• boards for formwork;
• hacksaw;
• level;
• nails;
• reinforcement material, welding machine and wire cutters;
• usually a trowel, spatula;
• sealant for processing seams (it is better to purchase a polyurethane compound).

Marking

Arrangement of the blind area around the house begins with preparing the area for construction. At this stage, it is necessary to mark the perimeter of the future “tape”, or rather the trench for it, using pegs. There are several recommendations in this regard:

• The step between the beacons is 1.5 m.
• The depth of the trench will depend on the soil, but the minimum value is 0.15-0.2 meters. If the ground is “heaving”, then the depth increases to 0.3 m.

The easiest way to apply markings is to proceed in the following sequence:

1. Drive metal or wood pegs into the ground at the corners of the house.
2. Install intermediate beacons along the perimeter of the building.
3. Stretch the cord or rope, connecting all the pegs.

Healthy! At this stage, you can use a sealant to separate protective coating from the foundation.

After this, the slope of the system is formed; for this, a trench is dug in which the depth of one of its sides will be greater. To compact the resulting ditch, it is enough to use wood. First, you need to place the log vertically, lift it and sharply lower it down with force. This will compact the bottom of the trench.

Formwork

For formwork you will need boards on which it is better to immediately mark the height of the future cushion. Attach the improvised “box” in the corners metal corners(with bolts from the outside).

Important! If you do not want to remove the formwork after the construction of the concrete blind area is completed, then be sure to treat the wood with an antiseptic compound and wrap the boards with roofing felt.

Making a pillow

In order for a concrete blind area to be made according to all the “canons” of construction, it is imperative to prepare a sand or clay base for it. The thickness of the sand layer can reach up to 20 cm. It is best to lay the pillow in several layers, moistening and thoroughly tamping each subsequent layer. At the final stage, the surface needs to be leveled.

Waterproofing

The waterproofing device involves laying several layers of roofing material or other geotextiles on the pillow.

1. The material needs to be “wrapped” slightly onto the walls to create an expansion joint.
2. Roofing felt must be laid overlapping.
3. A thin layer of sand is poured on top of the geotextile, and then 10 cm of gravel.
4. If you plan to install drainage system, then it is laid close to the resulting “hydraulic seal”.

Reinforcement, pouring and drying

Above the level of 3 cm from the crushed stone layer it is necessary to lay metal mesh in increments of 0.75 m. After this, you need to mix the concrete and pour it in equal portions into the resulting formwork sections. In this case, the poured composition should reach the level of the upper edge of the wooden “box”.

Healthy! After pouring, pierce the surface with an iron rod in several places to allow excess air to escape.

The composition can be distributed using a trowel or a rule. To increase the resistance of concrete, 2 hours after pouring, ironing is performed. To do this, the surface is covered with a layer of dry PC 400 3-7 mm thick.

Healthy! To prevent the composition from cracking, it must be moistened with water 1-2 times a day.

In addition to how to properly fill the blind area, you need to take care that it does not crack during the drying process. To do this, you need to protect the coating from atmospheric precipitation and the sun with the help polyethylene film. It is believed that the blind area dries completely in 10-14 days. However, according to the regulations, at least 28 days should be allowed for drying.

Post Views: 7