We build a chain-link fence with our own hands. The device of a fence from a chain-link mesh on the example of tension and sectional structures. Do-it-yourself chain-link fence installation

Chain-link fence - quick to arrange and inexpensive solution, ideal for fencing summer cottages, technical zones, reservoirs, agricultural territory or sports grounds. Such a fence is universal, reliable and durable, and how to make it will be discussed in this article.

We will give advice on the choice of materials and provide step by step instructions for the installation of the fence with your own hands - from installing poles to stretching between the mesh supports.

1 Which grid to choose?

A chain-link fence will cost you much less than installing an all-metal, brick or wooden fence. The reason for this is relatively small price the mesh itself, as well as the absence of the need to install a serious foundation - the fence from the chain-link mesh has no windage, so even the minimum amount can withstand it support pillars.

Read also: about the application and its benefits.

There are three types of chain-link on the construction market, differing from each other in the material of manufacture:

In addition to the material of manufacture, the mesh is divided into varieties according to the size and shape of the cells. There are modifications with diamond-shaped and rectangular cells, but their shape does not play any role in practice. More important is their size, which varies from 25 to 60 mm. The smaller the cells, the stronger and more expensive the material.

Here it is necessary to look at the functional purpose of the fence. If you are making a fence from a chain-link mesh to enclose an area with poultry, then a product with large cells will not work - chickens can crawl between the cells. Generally, optimal size for any fences are cells of 30-40 mm.

1.1 What are the pillars made of?

The supporting posts of the fence should be located at a distance of 2-3 meters from each other. Supports can be made using three different materials:

steel profile pipes;
polymer plumbing pipes;
wooden poles.

In practice, installation wooden poles rarely performed, as they are heavy, difficult to work with, and the durability of wood, prone to rotting due to moisture, leaves much to be desired. The best option is a device of pillars from steel profile rectangular shape.

The advantage of a profile of this section is increased strength due to the presence of stiffeners. The profile, depending on the wall thickness, is classified into three varieties - thick-walled (from 1.5 to 3 mm), standard (3-4 mm) and thick-walled (up to 8 mm).

It is best to do the installation of the fence with your own hands using profile with a wall thickness of 4 mm and a section of 6 × 6 cm(cost from $4 per running meter). The transverse fence belts, which are necessary for additional fixation of the mesh, can be made from a thinner profile of 3 × 3 cm or reinforcement with a diameter of 11-16 mm - it will turn out inexpensively and reliably.

2 Fence installation technology

A chain-link fence can be made in two versions - tension and sectional. In the feather case, it is enough to simply install the support posts with your own hands and pull the chain-link between them, fixing it on the supports with a thickness of 3 mm.

To do sectional fence a significant amount of welding work will be required, for which appropriate equipment is needed. Such a fence consists of rectangular sections welded from a profile about 3 * 2 m in size, fixed between the supporting pillars. The advantage of this option is a more aesthetic appearance and increased strength.

There is also a simpler modification of the sectional fence. Its installation involves the installation of support pillars and welding on them of two horizontal reinforcement belts, which are used as the upper and lower parts of the section instead of the profile. The cost of reinforcement is lower, which contributes to significant cost savings, but it performs all the same functions - it gives the fence greater spatial rigidity.

2.1 Chain-link fence - step by step instructions

Before installing the fence, you need to do the marking of the site with your own hands. Initially, it is necessary to mark the mounting points of the supporting pillars, the distance between which should not exceed 2.5 meters, since the mesh can sag under its own weight.

You can find out the required number of supports by dividing the fenced perimeter of the site by 2.5. If the length does not allow the use of a uniform pitch, then you need to install most of the posts at the required distance, and place the last support closer to the adjacent post.

The marking is easy to do with your own hands - we install the extreme reinforcing pegs, stretch the twine between them and make marks with stakes at a given distance.

When all the pillars are mounted, it remains to stretch the grid between them. After concreting, 2-3 days should pass, which are necessary for the foundation to gain strength.

The installation of the mesh can be carried out on steel hooks pre-welded onto the poles or by fixing it on the supports with a knitting wire. If you are using a black wire netting, its lower contour must be started at a height of 10 cm from the ground. Galvanized or mesh can be stretched from the ground or sunk into the ground.

It is necessary to mount the grid from the corner post. To do this, unwind the roll with your own hands and install it near the support, fasten the extreme contour of the chain-link on the hooks previously welded on the pole, unwind the roll for one span and thread a vertical reinforcement bar at the cut point, with which you can evenly stretch the mesh. After stretching the material, fix it on the hooks of the support post. Similarly, the grid is mounted on all subsequent supports.

After it was possible to stretch and fix the mesh on the first span, it is necessary to make two horizontal belts of reinforcement (upper and lower), which will perform a supporting function, preventing the mesh from sagging during operation. The reinforcement is pulled inside the cells of the chain-link at a distance of 10-20 cm from its extreme contours and welded to the supporting pillars.

If you need to make a corner fence with your own hands, then at the corners the chain-link must be separated and joined two separate parts, and not bypass the corner with a solid canvas. Upon completion of the installation of the fence, it remains only to bend the hooks fixing the mesh.

Owners country houses, summer cottages, as well as residents of the private sector in cities often face the problem of installing a fence. high quality fence concrete foundation requires a significant investment of effort and financial resources. This may be justified if you large plot outside the city, where you want to securely protect yourself not only from neighbors and passing vehicles, but also from stray animals. small plots in the city or in a holiday village, they are most often fenced with a mesh netting, which does not obscure green spaces, and its installation takes a little time even without the involvement of professionals.

What you need

To make the installation of the fence take as little time as possible, you need to prepare in advance and calculate the number required material and tools.

To install a chain link fence, you will need:

Mesh netting in a calculated amount with a small margin.

Pillars.

Wire for attaching the chain-link to the poles.

Fasteners (plates, brackets, clamps, nuts, bolts) - depending on the chosen mounting method.

A hammer.

Pliers.

Bulgarian.

Apparatus for welding.

Materials for the preparation of concrete (if necessary, concreting pillars).

To determine the required number of chain-links, poles and other fasteners, the first step is to measure the perimeter of the fenced area. The most simple and reliable option measurements - on a stretched cord.

To do this, you need to drive in pegs at the corners of the area that will be fenced, and pull on a strong thread, fishing line or wire, the length of which will subsequently be measured. The measurement result will be equal to the required amount running meters grids.

However, you definitely need to add a couple of meters of stock. Fence posts are installed on average at a distance of two and a half meters from each other, but no closer than two meters.

Knowing the size of the perimeter of the fenced area, it is easy to calculate required amount supports and, accordingly, the approximate number of fasteners, which, however, varies depending on the chosen type of fence construction.

Types of structures

The main types of chain-link fence designs:

Tension fence without guides. The easiest to install and affordable option in finance. To install such a fence, it is enough to dig in the poles and cover them with a net, attaching them to the supports with wire. For such a fence, poles of any shape from any material are suitable. This design is perfect for a temporary fence or fences inside the site.

Tension fence with guides. This type differs from the previous one in the presence of two longitudinal guides, which can be either wooden (beam) or metal (pipe). This design looks more solid and holds its shape better, however, it is not recommended to install a fence with metal guides on heaving soils due to possible gaps when the soil moves.

sectional fence. This type of fencing is a series of metal frame sections welded to the posts, in which the chain-link is mounted. Mesh frames are made by welding from metal corner. Mesh installation is also carried out by welding. Such a fence is the most stable, outwardly more presentable, but also a more expensive option.

Net

Today, the chain-link mesh is produced in several types:

non-galvanized. The cheapest and most durable. Such a grid requires mandatory painting, since after a short time after installation it will definitely begin to rust. Service life in unpainted form - no more than three years. Suitable for temporary barriers. For more solid structures recent times practically not used.

galvanized. Does not corrode, durable, easy to install, not much more expensive than non-galvanized chain-link, has become widespread and firmly occupies leadership among other types in terms of sales.

plasticized. This type of chain-link appeared relatively recently and is a wire mesh with a special protective coating. Combines everything positive traits galvanized mesh with greater aesthetics. Very durable, but also more expensive.

plastic. This mesh is made entirely of plastic and is available in different sizes. color solutions with various form cells. It can be used for boundary fences between neighbors or for fences within the site. As a fence from the street, a plastic mesh is not suitable due to its insufficient strength.

Important! When choosing a plasticized chain-link, you should familiarize yourself with the quality certificate of the goods put up for sale, since a poor-quality coating may not withstand the test of weather conditions, as a result of which it will crack and rust.

Another criterion for distinguishing types of chain-link is the size of the cells. Basically, the mesh size varies from 25 mm to 60 mm. However, there are also grids with a mesh size of up to 100 mm.

The size of 40-50 mm is considered the most suitable for an external fence, but it is better to enclose the poultry yard with a mesh with smaller cells through which even the smallest chicks cannot climb.

Having decided on the type of chain-link and choosing the option that suits all parameters, it is imperative to carefully examine the roll for damage and deformation.

Even a slight bend or curvature of the wire when installing the fence can result in a serious problem.

The edges of the chain-link must be bent. Moreover, the "tails" of the wire should not be shorter than half the length of the cell.

Did you know? The grid was invented and patented at the end of the 19th century by the bricklayer Karl Rabitz, and at first it was used when plastering walls.

pillars

The basis for the fence from the netting are pillars, which, depending on the type of structure and the soil under it, are either simply dug into the ground or concreted.

For the installation of a chain-link fence can be used the following types supports:

Wooden. Since wood is a short-lived material, such supports are suitable only for a temporary fence. Their undoubted advantage is their low cost. Before installation wooden poles needs to be leveled and processed underground part waterproof mastic. The above-ground part of the support must be painted to extend its service life. The desired size of a wooden pole is 100x100 mm.

metal. Most optimal view supports for chain-link fencing. They are characterized by strength, reliability and durability and most often represent a hollow round profile (with a diameter of 60 mm or more) or square section(recommended size 25x40 mm). The recommended metal thickness is at least 2 mm. The processing of such pillars consists of priming and painting. Any fasteners are easily welded onto them. You can also buy ready-made poles with hooks to secure the net.

Concrete. Such supports can be made independently or purchased ready-made, especially since they are relatively inexpensive. The disadvantages of this type of supports include the inconvenience of their installation due to the severity and complexity of attaching the grid.

Step by step installation

The installation of a chain-link fence is carried out in several stages.

Territory marking

To mark the territory for the future fence, it is necessary to drive in pegs at the corners of the fenced area and pull the construction thread. At this stage, the necessary materials are also calculated.

Then you should mark the places for installing the supports, which will stand at a distance of 2-2.5 m from each other during installation. tension fence. When installing a fence with sleds or a sectional fence, the step between the posts can be 3 m.

Pole installation

The installation of supports should begin with corner ones, which are recommended to be dug deeper, since they will bear the main load of the entire structure. To install a pole (we take a metal one as a basis), it is necessary to dig or drill a hole in the previously marked place.

The depth of the pit should be 15-20 cm more than the depth of soil freezing. On clay and loamy soils, it is recommended to increase the depth of the pit by another 10 cm. 10-15 cm of gravel must be poured onto the bottom of the hole for water to drain, and another layer of sand on top.

Then a post is installed in the pit, pre-treated with an anti-corrosion compound. If the design fence light, and even more temporary, supports can be installed without concreting.

In this case, after placing the post in the pit, the free space is covered with alternating layers of stone and soil, each of which is carefully compacted. In the case of installing a sectional fence or a tension fence with guides that will increase the load on the supports, it is better to concrete the pillars.
For this, a cement mortar is prepared from sand and cement in a ratio of 1: 2, to which, after mixing, two more parts of crushed stone are added. When all loose parts are added and mixed, water is poured.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the solution does not turn out to be too liquid. The finished solution is poured into the pit around the pipe. Concrete must be shaken and compacted with bayonet shovel and leave until it hardens completely, which usually takes up to seven days.

After installing the corner posts, the rest are installed in the same way.

Important! It is necessary to control the verticality of the support installation using a construction plumb line. To make it easier to adjust the height of the posts relative to each other, it is recommended to stretch the cord between the corner supports at a distance of ten centimeters from the top.

Stretching the mesh and fixing it on supports

For different supports are used different types fasteners. Attaching the grid to metal poles carried out using hooks and welding, staples and nails are suitable for wooden poles, and concrete supports the netting is fastened with clamps or wire.
Let us consider in detail the option of stretching the mesh on a fence with metal poles. It is necessary to start pulling the chain-link from the corner post.

It will be more convenient to do this if, at a distance slightly greater than to the support, pass reinforcement through the mesh cells, for which two people will pull - one closer to the upper edge, and the second to the lower one.

A third person can attach the netting to the hooks of the support. After that, the mesh can be welded to the post using one or more rods threaded.

If the roll ends between the supports, it is enough to simply connect the two chain-link webs by removing the extreme spiral element of one web, then overlap both parts of the mesh and insert the removed element again.

Important! To reduce the load on the corner supports, it is better not to go around them with a mesh, but, after separating the cells, fix the chain-link with welding machine and stretch further with a separate canvas.

After tensioning the chain-link in the manner described above, in order to avoid sagging of the upper edge of the mesh, it is recommended to pass thick wire or reinforcement through the extreme cells, which should also be welded to the posts. The same can be done with the bottom edge. Such a fence will be stronger.

Upon completion of the installation of the chain-link, it is necessary to bend and weld all the hooks on the supports, and also paint the poles to prevent metal corrosion. If you mount the fence in a non-welding way, then painting the supports can be done even before they are installed.

Installation of a fence with guides is not much different from a simple tension one. The only difference is that, in addition to the mesh, guides are also welded to the supports.

Important! It will not work to install a tension fence from a chain-link on a sloping site, since it is very poorly attached in an inclined position. The way out of this situation will be terracing the site or installing a sectional fence.

The procedure for marking the territory and installing supports for a sectional fence is the same as for a conventional tension fence. Metal plates with a cross section of 5 mm (width - 5 cm, length - 15-30 cm) are welded to the installed pillars at a distance of 20-30 cm from the upper and lower edges of the support.

Sections are formed from rectangular frames welded from metal corners (30x40 mm or 40x50 mm), into which a part of the chain-link of the required size is welded with the help of rods.

The sections are installed between the posts and welded to the plates. After completion of installation work, the fence is covered with paint.

In some dacha cooperatives, a fence made of slate and other materials cannot be installed between plots, because. they strongly obscure small areas. In this case, a chain-link fence would be a good way out - it does not prevent the sun from entering the site, does not complicate natural circulation air. Rabitsa - inexpensive material which can last for a very long time. Its additional advantage is the possibility of using it as a support for climbing plants. The author of this successful invention was Karl Rabitz. The grid has already been used in late XIX century, originally it was used during plastering work.

Rabitsa - available material which any owner can afford suburban area. In order to create a chain-link fence with your own hands, in addition to the mesh, you will need thick wire, reinforcing bars, a cable and support poles.

A chain-link fence can be an excellent hedge, serve as a support for climbing plants. In this case, the site will be much more beautiful.

Today, manufacturers offer three types of chain-link mesh:

non-galvanized mesh is one of the cheapest, it is better not to consider this option, because. after a few months it may become rusty;
galvanized chain-link is most common - at a price it is slightly more expensive than non-galvanized, but it does not rust;
plasticized chain-link - a metal mesh, which is coated on top with multi-colored polymers to protect against corrosion.

The latter option is very practical, and such a mesh looks much more aesthetically pleasing than a metal one. Therefore, the plasticized chain-link, although it has appeared recently, is already actively used by our gardeners.

When choosing a mesh, you should pay attention to the size of the cells, the smaller their size, the stronger and more expensive the mesh. A mesh with cells of 40-50 mm and a roll width of 1.5 m is quite suitable as a fence for a summer cottage.

Option # 1 - "stretch" chain-link fence

The device of the fence from the chain-link mesh can be different. The easiest way to make a fence is to stretch the net between the posts. Pillars can be used metal, wood or concrete.

An easy way to make a chain-link fence without the use of rods is to stretch the mesh between the posts and hang it on hooks. Of course, over time, it can sag, but such a fence can last a long time.

The number of posts depends on the distance between them and the length of the fence. As practice shows, the best distance between metal mesh fence posts is 2.5 m. Second-hand pipes that are not affected by corrosion can be used as posts. Ready-made fence posts are now on sale, already painted, with hooks. Wooden poles need to be processed along the entire length before installation protective composition. You can also use concrete poles and attach a mesh to them with wire or a clamp.

The height of the pillars is calculated as follows. With a gap between the ground and the fence, 5-10 cm must be added to the width of the grid, and then another meter and a half, taking into account the underground part. As a result, you will get the average post height required to install the future fence. The load on the corner posts will be a little more, they should be dug in deeper, therefore their length should also exceed the length of ordinary posts by about 20 cm.

The bases of all pillars for greater strength are best concreted. The posts are the frame of the fence, after you install them, you can begin to attach the grid. After the concrete has hardened, hooks are attached to the posts or welded (if the post is metal) to secure the net. As a material for fastenings, screws, rod, nails, wire are suitable - any material that bends into a hook. We straighten the roll with the mesh and install it at the corner post, hang the mesh on hooks.

To ensure good tension and strength of the structure, we vertically thread a rod or thick wire into the first row of mesh cells, attach the rod to a wooden pole or weld it to a metal one. The mesh fixed in this way will not bend or sag, as is often the case without such fastening.

Then the roll is unwound on the span, to the next post. A little further than the place where the mesh connects to the pole, we pass the rod in the same way. We hold on to the rod and pull the net, if you don’t use the rod and just pull it with your hands, you can pull the net unevenly. It is best to do this with two people - one person at the bottom edge, the other at the top.

Now reinforcement is threaded into the mesh horizontally at a distance of at least 5 cm along both edges, top and bottom. Horizontal rods are welded or attached to poles. If you stretch the mesh without rods, over time it will sag, and the rods will maintain its tension.

Scheme of a fence device made of galvanized mesh with broach reinforcement along the top and bottom side. Such a fence is a stronger structure.

The fence is almost ready, now you need to bend the hooks on the poles and paint the poles. It is better to wrap the protruding wire "antennae" down so that no one is injured. It is convenient to thread the wire through the top row of cells and wrap the protruding edges around it.

Here, the “antennae” are neatly bent down to the rod, you can dry things on such a fence, there is no risk of injury

The "antennae" of the upper cells must be bent to avoid accidental injury. In this photo, they are slightly bent - there is a risk of injury or tearing clothes

If you do not want to use reinforcement and concrete pillars, you can use the simplest technique presented in this video:

Option # 2 - erecting a fence from sections

To make a fence of this type, sections are needed where the mesh will be mounted. First, similarly to the tension fence device, marking is made and poles are installed.

This scheme can be taken as a basis for determining the proportions of the dimensions of the future structure (click to enlarge)

You will need to buy a 40/5 mm corner to make the frame. We determine the length of the frame in this way: subtract about 10-15 cm from the distance between the pillars - this is its length. We subtract the same amount from the height of the column above the soil level - the resulting amount is the width of the frame. Corners are welded into rectangular structures. You can make the size of the sections based on the size of the mesh (1.5 -2 m), you can unwind the roll and, if necessary, reduce the size of the mesh to the desired grinder.

Then strips of metal are horizontally welded to the posts (length 15-25 cm, width 5 cm, cross section 5 mm). Along the edges of the post, you need to retreat 20 cm, install the section between the two posts and, using welding, attach it to the horizontal stripes. Now it remains only to paint the new fence.

Rods with a cross section of 4 mm are threaded through the mesh from 4 sides, first to the extreme row, then from above and below, the mesh must be well stretched and the rods welded to the corners of the section. (The rods are welded to the horizontal corners). It turns out a section from a corner with a mesh netting welded onto rods from the inside

On an inclined section, it will not work to make a tension fence; in an inclined position, the mesh cannot be stretched. For an inclined area, you can make a sectional fence by installing sections on both sides of the posts on different distance by soil level.

Every owner who is familiar with welding can make a fence from a chain-link mesh on their own. As a rule, 2-3 people cope with the work for a relatively short term. Dare!

A strong and reliable fence of the site does not have to be made of stone and concrete. A chain link fence is a smart alternative to expensive designs. This simple, light and at the same time reliable material makes it possible to perfectly realize the idea of reliable protection area from uninvited guests.

Fencing with decorative elements

Well, if the cost of fencing and work is really affordable, then why not order such a fence for a turnkey site? Or you can even take a chance and put up the fence yourself. Let's examine both options in detail.

Installing a chain-link fence has several undeniable advantages that clearly show that the idea of arranging just such a fence deserves attention.

The economic aspects of construction are related to how much the material costs and what is the price with the installation of such a project:

installing a mesh fence will cost much less than;
the service life of such a structure is at least 2 times longer than that of a wooden one;
the material for the main web, racks and accessories for stretching is quite cheap;
the opportunity to save on installation costs - assembling a chain-link fence with your own hands is much easier than others.

On the technical side, this design allows:

install a fence of almost any length;
when working with ready-made delivery kits, for example, from those sold in Leroy, build them without welding and using additional tools;
the material allows you to install both relatively light options, and with a rigid frame - a fence in sections from a metal corner or profile;
the material is great for the perimeters of plots of any shape;
installation does not require a large amount of work associated with the foundation. The weight of the canvas allows you to install it on poles from a profile pipe 50x50 mm without supports;
the material is not afraid of temperature changes, sunlight, able to withstand a large mechanical impact;
PVC-coated canvas does not require painting and additional care;
material for construction is easy to calculate and transport. It is sold in rolls of 10 meters, the connection is made by interlacing two segments into one common canvas;
a wide range of sizes. The height of the material can be standard: 1.5; 1.8; 2.0; 2.5; 3.0 meters.

The photo shows an easily mounted fence.

Such a fence does not obscure the neighbors' plot.

Issues related to the placement of the fence include:

the possibility of its placement both for a city site and for a summer residence. High light transmission allows you to build a fence between neighbors. At the same time, on neighboring plots there will be no shaded area, which corresponds to . But do not forget about.
building on screw piles won't hurt root system trees and shrubs. Therefore, it can also be placed in places where a garden is already growing, although this also has its own.

Beautiful decor fences

with guides

Installation of a chain-link fence with guides involves the construction of a rigid frame in the form of horizontal guides. The following are used as guides:

profile pipe with a profile from 20x20 to 40x20 mm;
metal rod;
fittings;
wooden bars.

Without guides

One of the methods of how to stretch the mesh on the fence is the option of building hedges without guides. Used as tensioner steel rope or wire threaded through rigidly fixed supports. The extreme corner supports are well reinforced with stops. The wire or cable is pulled through the cells at the top and bottom of the canvas at a distance of 5-10 cm from the edge.

The tension is done using bolts with holes in the head or lanyards.

Sectional option

sectional fence

Sectional mesh fence, mounted on supports with the help, differs in that it is difficult to dismantle it. It is much easier and easier to use the installation of sections with bolts.

Pole installation

The manufacture of a fence is associated, first of all, with the correct marking of the site and the installation of supporting pillars. from the grid are selected depending on the construction budget. For this are used:

metal profile pipe;
water pipe;
metallic profile;
corner;
brick pillars;
asbestos-cement pipes;
wooden poles.

Most cheap option These are wooden poles. Asbestos-cement pipes and concrete pillars. In more detail, they will help you choose a fence. Photos of fences using supports made of different material.

Preparatory stage

The construction of the fence begins with marking the perimeter of the site and breaking it into straight segments. Separately, a segment is marked where they will be installed entrance gate and a gate. Under it is better to provide powerful supports from a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm or a profile pipe 100x100 mm.

Calculate the dimensions of the spans under the sections with high precision, the distance between the fence posts without guides can be from 1.5 to 2.5 meters.

Pillar installation

Under each pillar comes off a foundation pit. Under the main pillars - angular, rotary and on which the gates are attached, the foundation pit comes off taking into account. Intermediate posts can have a pit diameter of 200-230 mm, such as the diameter of a garden auger auger.
The depth of the pit depends on the height of the building: with a height of up to 2.5 meters, a meter is enough, for a greater height of the supports, a depth of 1.5 meters is taken.

Structure mounting scheme

Construction begins with the installation of the main pillars. After the concrete of these supports hardens, the installation of intermediate pillars is carried out. For corner supports made of square pipe 50x50 mm, reinforcement is provided in the form of an inclined thrust beam.

Step-by-step installation of the grid

You can install a fence from a regular chain-link mesh with your own hands without guides without special equipment, especially if you use ready-made elements for installation and tension. For quick installation it is recommended to buy all fasteners in advance.

On guides

Chain-link fences along the guides are mounted in two stages:

Guides are mounted.
A polymer mesh is being installed.

First, we install guides on the pillars. Preliminary fixation is carried out with a mounting wire, then the guides are welded by electric welding.

Then, with the help of plastic clamps, the canvas gradually rises and is fixed on the fence. The final tension and fixation with wire or metal strip is done after and fastened by electric welding. plastic mesh on the guides is fixed only with wire or special clamps.

GOSTs normalize a lot, including how it is possible or impossible to delimit areas. So, for example, the regulations prescribe to delimit neighboring areas with transparent fences. Since the boundary is usually long, it is desirable that the fence be inexpensive. Actually, the choice is small - a chain-link fence or. Wattle, although cheap, is extremely short-lived, so that only a mesh fence remains. In general, it is correct to say “chain-link fence”, but for the ear it is more common to incline the name.

Popular and inexpensive - chain-link fence

Whatever this fence is called, but it has a solid amount positive aspects. The first and important plus is cheapness. This applies to both the filling itself - the grid, and the rest of the structure. To stretch the grid, the foundation is not required. It is enough to drill holes for about a meter, insert a pole and, having fallen asleep rubble, compact it well. All, none concrete work. On most soils, this installation method for this filling works for "five".

Structures and installation methods

The fact is that the chain-link fence is light. Moreover, it is light both in terms of its own weight and in terms of perceived wind loads. Whatever strong winds do not blow, the pressure transmitted by the mesh to the poles remains negligible. Due to the low weight, such a technology for installing pillars can be used: in a hole, under filling with sand or gravel, without concrete. Moreover, such a fence stands without problems even on heaving clay soils with high level groundwater, and even with a large freezing depth.

Without guides

Here's how it works. We are talking about the simplest design: just pillars, between which a grid is stretched. As you can see, the pillars are buried to a depth of less than a meter. What happens to such a fence on soils that normally drain water? All the water near the column goes down through the sand or gravel to the bottom of the hole. There it leaves in a natural way - it seeps into the underlying layers. Even if frost hits and the sand or gravel around the post freezes, the moisture content is not enough to have at least some significant effect on the post.

On clays and loams, you can use the same principle, only it is necessary to fill it with gravel. And be sure to pour 10-15 centimeters of gravel at the bottom of the hole, and only then install a pole. What happens in this case. Water still accumulates at the bottom, but it leaves very slowly. It may well happen that by the time of freezing, the rubble will still be wet, or even be in the water.

What will happen then? It will freeze and become hard. But since the soil also freezes, it puts pressure on the rubble. The forces are considerable, and the ice breaks, the rubble becomes mobile and compensates for most of the pressure, created by soil. As a result, if there are movements of the pillars, then they are quite small - from a few millimeters to several centimeters. Since the design is not rigid, the mesh will easily transfer it without any harm. After everything thaws, the poles will lower into place. But such a scenario is only if they are placed perfectly vertically. Otherwise, the poles may tilt and you will have to fix everything.

With guides (legs)

Sometimes, in order for the fence to be more solid and keep its shape better, two longitudinal guides are attached to the posts. They can be from a pipe, or they can be from a bar. Wood, as a plastic material, will tolerate soil movements remarkably, but a welded pipe will create additional difficulties.

The degree of rigidity of such a fence is higher, and when heaving, if the posts are squeezed out, it is quite possible that in some places the pipes may be torn off. To prevent this situation, you will have to dig below the freezing depth in your area. Everything else remains in effect: the hole is 15-20 cm deeper than required, there is rubble at the bottom, then a pipe is inserted, covered with well-packed rubble.

Sectional

There is another design of a chain-link fence. Frames are welded from the corner, on which the mesh is then stretched. Finished sections are welded to exposed poles.

As you can see from the description, the design is also quite rigid. This means that on heaving soils (clay, loam) it is necessary to bury the pillars 20-30 cm below the freezing depth of the soil, but it is also desirable to do without concreting. If you fill crushed stone with concrete, the probability that the pillar will “squeeze out” increases many times over.

Types of chain-link mesh for a fence

Even such a seemingly simple material as a chain-link mesh can be different. Moreover, the difference is solid both in price and in service life.

Plastic or polymer mesh - 100% polymer

Except different material, the chain-link has different size cells. It varies from 25 mm to 70 mm. The larger the cell, the cheaper the grid, but the smaller bearing capacity she has. If you put a chain-link fence on the border with a neighbor, they take mainly the middle link - from 40 mm to 60 mm.

What to look for when choosing a grid

Carefully inspect each roll. Its edges should not be curved. The upper and lower cells should be with curved "tails". Moreover, it is desirable that the length of the folded part be more than half the length of the cell. This mesh is easier to pull.

Edges should be straight and folded

Pay attention to the thickness of the wire, how even the cells are, how ugly they lie. All deformations are a sign of low quality.

If the mesh netting is in polymer coating Check the manufacturer's warranty period. The cheapest ones, not only do the wire often bend, they also use ordinary plastic, which, under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, becomes brittle after a couple of seasons and begins to crumble. A normal coating can last up to ten years or more. Therefore, in this case, it is not worth chasing cheapness.

Which poles to use

There are several options:

The most convenient option of all those mentioned is a profile pipe, and better - rectangular section. It is easy to attach the mesh to it, and you can weld hooks or wire if necessary. If possible, put them on. The optimal section for the post is 25 * 40 mm or so. You should not take a larger section - the fence is light.

The order of installation of pillars

First, put up the pillars at the corners of the site. If only one side needs to be fenced, one pole is placed at the beginning, the second at the end. Their verticality in all planes is strictly checked, the height is adjusted. At the very top and 10 cm above ground level, two cords are pulled. The rest of the pillars are placed on them. The height is aligned along the upper lace, the lower one serves to facilitate orientation: by attaching a plumb line to a point on the upper thread, you can find the place where the hole will be drilled.

The installation step of the pillars is 2-3 meters. Less is too expensive, more is pointless, the mesh will sag. When installing mesh without a guide wire, it makes sense to put posts every 2 or 2.5 meters. This makes it easier to stretch the mesh without sagging. For other models - with wire, slides (guides) or sections - the step can be 3 m.

If the grid is stretched between the posts, the extreme ones have a considerable load. so that they are not "led", they put jibs. They are exposed, dug in, welded to the installed pole.

Netting net installation

It only seems at first that it is easy to put up a chain-link fence. As soon as you start to think about how to fix the net on a pole, how to stretch it, everything is not so obvious and simple ... First, about general rules. The mesh is attached to one of the corner posts. Fasten in at least four places. In principle, you can simply fasten it with wire, passing it into the cell.

The method is simple, but not the most reliable. If the fence is in the country, during the absence of the owners, the grid can be easily removed and carried away.

You can at least fix it more securely on the first and last pillar. To do this, take a steel bar with a thickness of at least 4 mm, thread it through the cells, weld it to the pole, grabbing every 40-50 cm (in the photo on the left).

Another way: weld three or four rods with a diameter of 6 mm to each post. A mesh is put on them, they are bent.

If you are still paranoid about the fact that I will remove the grid, you can drill two in the column through holes, insert a bar bent in the form of a horseshoe - U, capturing the mesh with the "back". On the side where the ends come out, twist them and rivet them, or weld them.

Stretch

There is another problem: how to stretch the grid. If the design is simple - without slegs (transverse guides that are fixed between the posts), you can simply stretch the grid from one post to another. Just note that it is necessary to fasten sequentially to each pole. Fastening first through one, and then intermediate ones is a bad idea: there will definitely be uneven tension and sagging.

How to stretch the chain-link mesh so that there is no sagging? Insert the rod, grab it and pull with all your weight. The stretch will be quite significant. It is necessary to work with an assistant: one pulls and holds, the second fastens.

with wire

This type of fence is good because it is put up quickly. But the top edge may sag. If someone climbs through it, the top will definitely jam. It's unlikely to straighten it out. So that the top does not sag and “wrinkle”, a wire is pulled through the first row, it can be steel, or it can be in a plastic sheath so that it does not rust.

If wire is used, the technology can be simple: make a loop at the end, throw it over the last post. They unwind the wire trying to pull it, after two or three pillars make another loop, wrapping the wire around the pillar. So until the end of the flight. With the use of muscle strength, it will not be possible to pull enough, and the wire will inevitably sag. This is easy to fix. Take a thick metal rod, and use it to twist, pulling the wire. Is one twist not enough? A little further you do another one. So you tighten all the "spans". After that, you can begin to “pull” the grid, tying it to a stretched wire.

If you weld “ears” at the top of the column - a metal bar with holes, the wire can be attached to them. Pulling a piece of 2-3 meters is easier, but the work is slower.

You can also use special wire tensioners. Then, having fixed the wire on one pole, on the second it is passed into such a device as in the photo. It is fastened in a clamp, and then with the help of a key, the excess is wound onto the drum.

You can use a cable and lanyards - hooks with tie-clamps (in the rigging store). On one side, a cable is twisted around the pole, secured with a clamp. On the other hand, a lanyard is placed. His middle part has a thread, so you can pull the cable.

A lanyard with a cable is another option.

Since the cable is more flexible, it can be passed through the links. Each one will be too long, after two or three cells - it's normal. One more thing: take a cable with a polymer sheath: it will not rust.

With welded wire

A steel bar with a diameter of 6-8 mm is threaded into the upper cell, or slightly lower. It is cut into pieces equal to the distance from one pillar to another. The threaded rod is welded to the pole.

Pay attention to the top of this chain-link. In this photo, you can clearly see that it has already begun to bloom. This is exactly the reason why it is necessary to take a mesh with curved ends. It just doesn’t unravel, and even without a wire or a bar, it holds the edge well.

With slugs (guides)

In even more rigid structures, after the pillars are installed, slugs are welded to them. These are cross pipes or wooden planks attached between posts. There may be one guide, or there may be two or three.

As you can see in the photo, in this case, you can also fasten the mesh with a wire. Obviously, all methods described above can be used. The only difference is that the mesh is attached not only vertically, but also horizontally. The photo below shows another way - with plates bolted, the ends riveted. This method can also be used when attaching to poles.

Chain link fence decoration

No matter how pleased you are with the fence at first, after a while there is a desire to either decorate it, or make it less transparent in order to close from prying eyes.

The first way - the most obvious - is to plant plants. If the neighbors do not mind, bindweeds or any other annual or perennial plants can be used.

Most natural way- plant plants

If you just want to decorate your fence, you can do "embroidery". Cells have same sizes, so you can embroider like on canvas. There are two materials for embroidery: wire and colored twine.

Colored twine is good because you can "embroider" color pictures. Any that seem appropriate to you.

Not very aesthetic, but quite effective way- pull on a camouflage or shading net. These methods are good because they require a minimum of effort: they pulled it, grabbed it in a couple of places.

The shading mesh is almost opaque, and wind load will hardly change

The same effect is achieved if twigs or reeds are woven into the cells. The disadvantage of this option is the high labor intensity. It will take a lot of time.

Ready-made reed mats can reduce manufacturing costs. They are sold in rolls. All you need to do is unroll and fasten. But the cost is much higher than the previous option.

Another way is to use artificial needles sold in rolls. It is used in the manufacture of baskets and wreaths, but it can also be adapted to the fence.

Green wall - chain-link mesh decorated with artificial needles

Not so long ago, another way of decorating and, at the same time, reducing the visibility of a fence from a chain-link mesh appeared - a photo grid. This is a pattern printed on a polymer mesh. Sold in rolls (for tension fence) or fragments (for sectional). It is fastened with the help of eyelets and wire or clamps built into the surface. You can see an example of the effect in the photo below.