Mechanized water intake from a source All "land owners" know that mechanized water intake for irrigation is associated with high energy costs, and therefore financial ones. Therefore, the opportunity to reduce energy costs naturally attracts many

Wire fruit picker (A.M. Stetsko) The craftsman made 2 figures of different shapes from wire (4-5 mm in diameter), tied them together and tied them to a pole. I attached a mesh with small cells to the fruit picker. Wire fruit picker. 1 and 2 - parts of the fruit picker, 3 - combined

Wire frame Such a frame is made of wire with a cross section of 4 - 5 mm. The distance between the arms is 80 - 100 cm. To prevent the film from sagging, a wire is pulled along the top of the arms, but of a smaller section (2 - 3 mm). For the stability of the frame and ease of its transfer, the lower ends

Spruce fence The cheapest and easiest fence can be made from common spruce. However, if you feel unwell or tired, you should not be near the spruce. If you plant spruces as a green fence, then the distance between the trees should be 80-100 cm. To

Thuja fence A fairly fast-growing and durable fence can be made from western arborvitae. Surprisingly plastic, hardy and unpretentious plant. Here is a thuja (and preferably more than one) that just needs to be started in any, even the smallest garden. But, even with only one

Spruce fence The cheapest and easiest fence can be made from common spruce. However, if you feel unwell or tired, you should not be near the spruce. If you plant spruces as a green fence, then the distance between the trees should be 80–100 cm. To

Thuja fence A fairly fast-growing and durable fence can be made from western arborvitae. Surprisingly plastic, hardy and unpretentious plant. Here is a thuja (and preferably more than one) that just needs to be started in any, even the smallest garden. But, even with only one

For temporary fencing of the territory or as an open fence denoting the boundaries of the site, a fence of poles is installed. It is easy to install, and the raw material gives the fence an original and distinctive appearance.

Advantages

The pole fence is used both for external delimitation and for internal zoning. Part of it is decorated with flower beds and gazebos. There are several advantages that a pole fence has:

• The cheapness of the material used: even illiquid wood can be used to make a fence, and it will look appropriate.
• With the use of poles, you can create an original country-style landscape design. By fencing the territory from the outside, you can create your own ranch.
• Ease of installation.
• Good resistance to strong winds, structural stability.

Such a fence will not hide the private area from prying eyes, but it will reliably protect against the penetration of large animals. Do not worry about a through fence: it can be turned into a blank wall by decorating it with a hedge of climbing plants.

Types of fences from poles

The simplest fence of long poles is constructed without respect for symmetry and aesthetics. However, you can select other types of fences from poles with your own hands:

• Fencing from transverse poles: vertical poles of medium thickness are woven into three horizontal ones. It turns out a light through fence of intertwined flexible rods.
• A fence with longitudinal weaving: long poles are stretched between dug-in pillars. It consists of a line of vertical supports, between which branches are woven, forming a continuous web.

Fences with parallel poles also have several options. Beams can be fastened: horizontally to each other; vertically, forming a palisade; or diagonally. The last option is original fences using wire ties.

Required materials and tools

To install a "country" fence, you will need the following materials and tools:

• Wooden supports.
• Crossed.
• Wire for screed elements.
• Shovel or buroyam.
• Resin or drying oil for coating parts.
• Axe, sledgehammer.
• Hardware.
• Twine, fishing line.

Installation

To make a fence of poles, you first need to clear the area and mark its location. To do this, you need to pull a fishing line or twine between the stakes limiting the fence. Depending on the number of supports, they dig the required number of holes for the posts. Between the supports, a distance of 2-3 meters is usually observed.

The lower end of the supports is sharpened to make it easier to install (drive) into the ground. It also needs to be covered with resin or drying oil. Impregnation protects wood from rotting in wet soil.

A sledgehammer is used to drive posts into holes. Butting or wooden pegs will help strengthen the supports. Also, the space between the pillars and the ground of the recesses can be covered with gravel. The design will be more stable if you build double pillars: they are fastened to each other with a coupler, and subsequently poles are laid between them, connecting with wire or staples.

After these steps, you can proceed with the installation of transverse, longitudinal or diagonal poles, which are mounted on a wooden frame. To protect the ends of the trunks from destruction, they are coated with resin. After assembling the structure, poles, poles, rods can be coated with a colorless protective varnish, then the wood will not lose its color and will be resistant to external influences.

Ranch-style yard fencing is gaining popularity. This is largely due to the use of affordable, inexpensive material, ease of assembly of the fence. In addition, there is a fairly wide selection of types of fence design from poles.

Garden buildings made of unskinned poles bring the charm of rustic simplicity and comfort to the garden. They are so organically "dissolved" in nature that they become an integral part of it.

For a master who equips his garden according to his own plan and dreams of special, “not like everyone else” fences, arbors, gates and pergolas, the ideal building material is untreated poles that have preserved the natural, lively lines of the tree and beautiful bark. No matter how hard you try, no two identical poles can be found among the unskinned poles. Buildings made of such material are absolutely unique. They fit perfectly into the garden, designed in a rustic style, called "rustic" for its slight roughness.

protection against decay
In order for the building to be durable, the lower ends of the poles must be pitched or lowered for 30-40 minutes in used engine oil. Each wooden part is lowered at one end into melted resin and kept in it for 5-7 minutes. The lower parts of the racks can be left in a bucket of composition overnight so that the ends are thoroughly soaked. A good remedy for decay is burning wood with a blowtorch flame. To protect the upper cuts of the poles from rain, they are covered with oil paint. She also processes metal fasteners - wire and staples.

intake affairs
The most common variant of rustic structures made of poles are light fences and fences. The basis of the fence is made up of pillars and horizontal veins attached to them, on which poles are then nailed vertically. By varying the height and density of the poles, you can turn the fence into a real palisade. Using short, angled cuts, various geometric patterns can be created between posts and veins. Round or split along the length of the poles, fastened with galvanized wire, form a "roll fence". All that is needed to install it is to roll out the “path”, cut off the excess and attach it to the poles.

The protruding ends are leveled with a saw or left as is. The gate looks more neat, which is a frame filled with segments of poles. To install them, guides are drilled on the inner surface of the frame.

choose wisely
Poles are thin long tree trunks cleared of branches and branches, the thickness of which at the upper end without bark is 3-7 cm.
They are suitable for light buildings, in serious structures, poles are combined with thicker trunks-pillars 6-13 cm thick and thin logs with a diameter of 14-24 cm. Pillars and thin logs are used to create a constructive basis for buildings, thin poles - for filling elements.
Rigidity of the building is given with the help of numerous diagonal struts and jumpers.
For decoration, you can also use knotty "clumsy" branches - they will give the building a picturesque, slightly "wild" look.

mixed - with a metal or tubular frame of supporting walls and an upper wooden crate.

The ends of the supports are embedded in monolithic foundation cups 40 ? 40 cm and filled with cement mortar.

Pergolas are decorated with climbing or climbing plants and are widely used in summer cottages and gardens. They look advantageous in a garden of any size, forming a natural canopy. Pergolas and arches come in a variety of designs and can decorate more than just a garden. They can be placed along the facade, fence, combined with a gazebo (Fig. 18). Under the green roof of the pergola, you can arrange a relaxation area. There should be a place for a bench, table and other garden furniture.

Rice. eighteen. Pergola construction over the walkway

Pergolas and other structures, which will be discussed below, can be made from wood, plastic, and other improvised materials. Suitable plastic pipes, which are used for the construction of arched greenhouses: they are light and bend well.

Materials for the manufacture of metal parts of the pergola - steel pipes and corners, duralumin profiles of various configurations.

Large pergolas are made of thick pipes, as the mass of climbing plants increases.

The manufacture of pergolas begins with the manufacture of sidewalls. The necessary blanks are cut from the pipes. On the site, in marked places, pits are dug 1–1.2 m deep. A sand cushion about 10 cm thick is poured onto the bottom and the pit is filled with concrete mortar to the level of installation of the ends of the sidewall support pipes. After the concrete has set, the sidewall is installed and fixed with retaining boards. The verticality of the installation is checked by a plumb line. Install the second side in the same way.

Both pits are concreted with installed sidewalls, the top is ironed and kept until the concrete has completely hardened (about a week).

After 8-10 days, you can install the top. The sidewalls are connected in several places by welding transverse pipes. The entire structure is covered with wire or mesh. The distance between the wires should be 10–15 cm. Plants will curl along them.

The wall is a vertical frame with climbing plants on it. The recreation area can be fenced off with two or more walls.

The walls are made from the same materials as the pergolas.

Wooden pergola. This type of pergola is built from pine or spruce beams with a section of 80? 80 mm, upper crossbars - from bars 80? 120 mm.

In accordance with the pattern, the necessary grooves and spikes are marked on the cut out parts. Blind grooves are first drilled, then excess wood is selected, bringing the shape of each groove to the required one. Special care is required when sawing the strut spikes to ensure they are tightly connected to the uprights and crossbars at a 45° angle. Having prepared all the details, they make a control assembly of the pergola. To do this, the crossbars are laid out on a flat area (with the grooves up) and the crossbars are laid on them (also with the grooves up). The spikes of the racks with spacers and struts are inserted into the grooves of the crossbars. If necessary, the corresponding spikes and grooves are adjusted to each other. Wooden parts are antiseptic. Connections are fastened with waterproof glue. Wood screws with a hexagonal head are wrapped in the places of the spikes. Pilot holes with a diameter of 5 mm are drilled under the screws (Fig. 19).

Rice. 19. Construction of a wooden pergola above the entrance

You can install the pergola on metal anchor supports. At the same time, the lower ends of the racks must be impregnated with bituminous mastic or tar so that they do not rot.

Paint the pergola with paints for outdoor woodwork.

Basic parts for assembling a pergola:

Racks (80 × 80 × 2600 mm) - 4 pcs;

Crossbeams (80 × 120 × 4600 mm) - 2 pcs;

Struts (80 × 80 × 1000 mm) - 4 pcs;

Spacers (80 × 80 × 580 mm) - 8 pcs;

Wood screws (8 × 70 mm);

Glue, antiseptic, decorative varnish;

Anchor supports - 4 pcs.

Screens and tapestries. Screens is a special type of decorative devices for climbing plants. They serve as a background for flowering woody or shrubby plants, and sometimes for protection from the wind, dividing garden plots, isolating plots from each other, etc. Depending on the functional load, the screens can be dense and openwork. To create a screen, a trellis is used - a wooden or metal grate. The supports must be strong and stable in order to withstand the mass of shoots and leaves, especially in windy conditions.

Screen trellises are used to divide the garden into separate functional areas. They are mobile, very diverse in size and shape and are appropriate anywhere in the garden. If you provide such a screen with a container for flowers, then for the winter it will be possible to transfer the plants to the house or to the veranda. This is very convenient for plants that do not tolerate frost. In winter, such trellises and screens can decorate your hall or conservatory, and in summer they can be taken out into the garden or courtyard again.

Along with the usual rectangular panels, you can design panels of any configuration with windows, seats and shelves.

Pergolas, arches, screens, trellises and trellises look great on the terrace. They can decorate a balcony and a veranda, a bridge and a small pond.

Trellis. A trellis is a garden support made of wood or metal in the form of a lattice, along which climbing plants rise.

The trellis serves to create quiet corners of rest, fencing utility sites, separating garden zones, plots.

The trellis is installed on supports that are recessed into pre-made foundation cups 40 ? 40 cm at a depth of 15-20 cm from the surface of the lawn or path. The trellis grating can be free-standing or wall-mounted. The trellises house both annuals and perennials.

Flowering plants used to create flower beds require care, which consists of the care of individual plant species and the care of the flower bed as a composition.

Soil preparation. When creating flower beds in places where there is no fertile soil, they clear the site, dig a shallow pit of the appropriate size and configuration. Plant soil prepared in advance and seasoned with fertilizers is poured into it. The thickness of the fertile layer for perennials should be at least 20-30 cm, for perennials - 30-50, and for carpet plants - at least 15 cm.

Manure, complete mineral fertilizer (nitrogen - 10 g / m 2, phosphorus - 9, potassium - 10 g / m 2) or compost are used as fertilizers. Soil preparation is carried out two to three weeks before planting.

Planting plants. How to plant flowering plants? Before planting perennials, the soil is leveled with a rake. Then the flower garden is divided into sites for planting individual plant species. Perennial plants that winter in the ground are planted in early autumn from August 15 to September 15 (in the south of the country - 15–25 days later). Perennials that reproduce by seed are planted in spring and autumn. Bulbs of tulips and daffodils after summer drying are planted at the end of September. The planting depth of the bulbs is 15 cm, but depends on its size. The bulb should not be planted deeper than three times its height.

Perennial plants often reproduce by dividing the bush into several parts. A perennial bush is dug out of the soil and divided in such a way that there are 5–8 buds on the plant of each part. These parts are planted in prepared places in accordance with the plan. From time to time, such plants need rejuvenation and transplantation. Plants with a creeping rhizome grow in one place for 8-10 years, plants with a compact rhizome - 10-15 years. Rootless perennials with fibrous root systems need to be repotted every 3-5 years.

Perennials that do not winter in the ground (dahlias, gladiolus) are dug up in late September - early October, the above-ground part is cut off with a knife, and the rhizomes and tubers are cleaned of soil, dried and stored in cellars or special storages in winter. In the second half of winter, they are germinated in greenhouses and greenhouses, and in spring they are planted in flower beds.

Biennials are planted in the form of seedlings, which are previously grown in greenhouses or on special ridges. Seedlings are planted in the ground in early autumn. Biennial plants bloom in spring. After flowering, they are removed from the flower garden or flower bed, and seedlings of annuals or ground cover plants are planted in their place.

Letniki are also planted in place of faded bulbs (tulips, daffodils, crocuses).

Two weeks before planting, they prepare landing sites in flowerbeds, in discounts, and stalls. The edges of flower beds should be 5-10 cm above the surrounding lawns and paths and be bordered by a narrow strip of good turf or a thin curb. On the surface of the flower garden planned and watered with water, lines of the contours of the drawing are applied. You can draw these lines with chalk.

For planting, it is best to take well-formed seedlings in the flowering stage. Plants with a one-year development cycle are planted only when the danger of the last frost has passed. Landing is carried out in the morning or in the evening. 4-5 hours before transplanting, seedlings are thoroughly watered. Seedlings take root best of all if they are planted together with a clod of earth. Planting is carried out manually: they dig holes of the required size so that the roots of the plants do not bend during planting, and the seedlings are planted a little deeper than the root neck. A small gap is left between the flower border and the bordered plants so that the border stands out more clearly.

After planting, the flower garden is immediately watered with not very cold water. Sections of the lawn on which flowers are not planted are sown with lawn grass or covered with turf. The sown areas can be sprinkled with peat chips with a layer of 1–1.5 cm. It delays the evaporation of moisture from the surface of the flower garden and gives it a neat appearance.

Appeared seedlings of flyers must be thinned out once or twice. After thinning, the remaining plants develop faster and bloom more abundantly.

Plants have different moisture needs. Therefore, it is not advisable to plant moisture-loving and drought-resistant plants close to each other. Tuberous plants, such as dahlias, and bulbous plants, have high requirements for moisture. Most plants need watering during the period of growth, budding and flowering.

The relative humidity of the soil during these periods should be 70–80% for moisture-loving plants and 60–70% for drought-resistant plants. The irrigation rate for annuals is 15–20 l / m 2, and for perennials - 30–40 l / m 2. The frequency of watering depends on weather conditions and soil properties. Perennials require additional watering in preparation for a dormant period.

Small and frequent waterings are impractical, as they compact the soil surface, not providing sufficient moisture to the root system. Watering is best done in the evening or early in the morning. The jet of water should fall down. When watering, dust and dirt are washed off the foliage. Along with irrigation, spraying is carried out to lower the air temperature in the surface layer and increase its humidity between plants and near them. Sprinkler installations are often installed on large flowers.

Soil loosening. To preserve moisture, improve air exchange and destroy weeds, it is necessary to carry out timely loosening of the soil of the flower garden. The first loosening is carried out in early spring, as soon as the topsoil dries out. The depth of loosening depends on the nature of the location of the underground parts of the plants. The soil under plants with superficial roots is loosened to a depth of 3–5 cm.

The soil under plants with horizontal rhizomes, creeping and creeping above-ground shoots is loosened carefully to a depth of 2-3 cm. Loosening is carried out around individual plant groups.

Mulching significantly improves the growth conditions of perennials. Peat or peat composts are used as mulch. You can use sawdust, sand, fine gravel. Mulch is applied on the surface of the flower bed with a layer of 2.5–3 cm, if the flower bed is new, and for flower beds that are several years old, with a layer of 5–8 cm.

Mulching terms - early spring and autumn, in the period after pruning faded shoots. Mulching is enough to carry out 1 time in 2-3 years. Mulching is especially important in areas with arid climates and low rainfall.

The fence of the site not only protects its borders. It can become a decoration of the landscape and part of the landscape composition. According to their purpose and appearance, the fences can be different. The fence must be suitable for the purpose and be functional. At the same time, it can not only and not so much be a fence, but can also perform a purely decorative function.

Depending on the height, several types of fences are distinguished. High fences (3–7 m) are installed along the borders of large parks, gardens, and large estates. These fences provide reliable protection.

Fences of medium height - from 1 to 1.5 m - are most often installed along the borders of summer cottages, mansions and estates.

Low fences are built near flower beds, parterres, ponds, on the borders of individual zones of the estate and have a height of 0.5–0.8 m. There are also decorative and partial fences that are used as a design element. An example of such fences is decorative walls, arches and screens made of stone, wood and other materials.

Borders - low fences that limit paths, flower beds, flower beds and individual trees.

Fences are built from various materials: wood, plastic, metal and natural or artificial stone. Hedges are another type of fence that is popular and is constantly being enriched with new plant specimens and ways to construct the hedges themselves.

When constructing high fences, the plinth of stone blocks is laid on a pre-made foundation. A metal frame is installed on the base, into which the grate is attached. In the event that the fence is stone, the laying starts from the foundation, laying a layer of waterproofing. The trench for the foundation and the plinth is made 10 cm wider than the wall on both sides of the axis and 30-40 cm deep. Prefabricated reinforced concrete elements are first installed with temporary fastening, and then clamped with clamps until they fit snugly against the posts in the grooves. Several sections align and finally produce concreting of all walls. For fastening the racks, concrete of a grade not lower than M200 and frost resistance of at least 50 is used. Wooden racks with a diameter of at least 14 cm and a length of 2.3 m are also used. The part of the rack buried in the ground is protected from decay by heated bitumen or by burning.

Fences made of steel mesh are made in the form of sections installed between racks of pipes. Wooden fences and mesh fences are made without a solid foundation, limited to the installation of pillars. For low fences, stone and concrete curbs, low cast-iron and metal gratings, ceramic curly blocks, brickwork, wood and plastic are used. Many companies produce ready-made lightweight plastic borders that can be mounted around a flower bed or lawn in a short time.

Low fences can be made from steel water pipes with a diameter of 38 mm. Racks are made of the same material, the parts are fastened with ready-made threaded tees.

Low railings can be multifunctional. Such fences are used as benches or retaining walls. Metal and wooden parts of fences are painted with nitro-enamel paints of soft tones.

Trunk fencing - a special type of fencing of individual trees and shrubs. The fence lattice protects the root system of trees from compaction, limits the hole for irrigation and fertilizer. A lattice around the trunk can serve as a support for climbing plants.

The more valuable the property, the stronger the fence the owner wants to install. You can see a wide variety of fences - made of concrete, brick, with forged elements. Of course, they are beautiful and reliable. But for a small house, an ordinary fence is enough.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to determine the location of the pillars and the material from which it will be made. Pillars are the main load-bearing element, so their manufacture and installation require special care. The base of the wooden poles is fired, coated with hot bitumen or tar, or wrapped in several layers of polyethylene film or roofing felt. In the manufacture of poles from metal or asbestos-cement pipes, it is necessary to exclude the ingress of water. Their internal cavity is filled with cement mortar.

The crossbars, or slabs, are attached to round poles with metal brackets, brackets or clamps. Staples are made of reinforcing iron with a diameter of 10–12 mm, so that they fit snugly into them with a gap of 2–3 mm. Fix the brackets on the poles with nuts or weld.

Clamps are made of strip steel with a thickness of 2-3 mm and are tightened with bolts, securing the legs. In pillars made of asbestos-cement pipes, the legs are fixed with brackets made of sheet steel 5-6 mm thick. To do this, holes are cut out or drilled in the pillars, into which the brackets are inserted, and the internal cavity is poured with concrete.

Currently, wooden, steel tubular and concrete poles are on sale. It is possible to make poles from asbestos-cement pipes and other materials (cuttings of a steel angle, channel, etc.).

Concrete poles can be made independently. The formwork is made of boards, preferably on several pillars at once, given the long curing time of concrete before hardening. The finished formwork is sheathed from the inside with sheet iron. A frame is knitted from a reinforcing wire with a diameter of 6–8 mm and laid in a formwork, poured with concrete. A mold for simultaneous casting of four pillars of a quadrangular section is made as follows. A shield of boards is upholstered with galvanized iron and seven boards are prepared. Four of them (two extreme and two end ones) are upholstered with iron on one side, the rest of the boards on both sides.

All dividing boards are attached to the shield and between themselves with steel spikes. To maintain the correct angles, they are additionally fastened with crochet hooks.

For reinforcement, a steel bar with a diameter of 6–8 mm is taken. The reinforcement is knitted with a wire with a diameter of 3-5 mm, the ends of which simultaneously serve to fix the reinforcement in the form.

You can immediately weld linings to the reinforcement for fastening the veins.

The inner surface of the mold is smeared with used machine oil. Lay the reinforcement and fill the form with concrete mortar.

To prepare the solution, a mixture of cement, sand and fine gravel is taken in a ratio of 1: 2: 2. Everything is thoroughly mixed and poured with water at the rate of 2–2.5 liters of water per 1 kg of cement.

Concrete is laid in parts, each time leveling it throughout the form. After filling, the form is covered with wet burlap and kept for a week until the concrete has completely hardened (the form is placed in the shade).

The form is released from concrete gradually. First, the extreme boards are removed and the two extreme pillars are taken out. Then, having removed the rest of the boards, the remaining pillars are removed.

The preparation of the poles begins with the manufacture of clamps for fastening the veins. On steel tubular poles, linings can be welded for fastening the veins.

Holes for bolts in the veins are made using wood drills.

Pillars (including concrete ones) are installed on a concrete base. The diameter of the pit is made 2–2.5 times the diameter of the column.

Sand is poured at the bottom of the pit with a layer of 20 cm. Then a concrete solution is prepared: cement (2 m. h.), sand (1.5 m. h.), fine gravel (3 m. h.), diluted with water to the consistency of liquid sour cream (for acidic soils it is better to take crushed lime).

A layer of fine rubble stone (15–20 cm) is placed in the pit and poured with concrete mixture. Tap with a thick pole to remove air bubbles from the concrete. They put a pole, align it with other poles and a plumb line, fix it. Fill the hole in layers, pouring concrete over the stone and compacting the concrete with a pole all the time. Having reached the surface level, a special form for the base of sheet iron is installed, lubricating the inner surface with machine oil.

The form is poured with a concrete mixture so that the concrete is 5–8 cm above the ground. The top of the foundation of the pillar with the form is covered with a damp cloth and left for a week.

Features of the installation of round pillars from asbestos-cement pipes. For hardening, metal reinforcement is inserted inside them and poured with concrete. The composition of the concrete is the same as for the foundations of the pillars, only without stone, and the crushed stone should be finer. To make the pillars even stronger, the concrete mixture is kneaded with a solution of water-based paint.

The asbestos-cement pillar installed in the pit is filled 20-30 cm with a concrete mixture, tapping with a pole. Having poured the lower part of the column with concrete, insert reinforcement and continue to pour concrete in layers. The top of the pillar is domed and carefully ironed. Then covered with wet burlap and left for a week.

Marking when installing poles with a distance of 2-3 m between them is carried out using a cord and a plumb line. Pillars are deepened by 50–80 cm with obligatory reinforcement with brick or gravel. It is desirable to fix the upper part at the base with a mortar or concrete screed.

The front side of the fence is often built with pillars and a brick plinth. The foundations for them are made of rubble stone with a mandatory mortar or concrete screed. Brick pillars intended for hanging gates and gates must be reinforced with reinforcement placed in the middle of the masonry and poured with liquid cement mortar with filler.

For fastening, sinuses are left in the masonry or metal brackets are inserted using steel corners. The deepening of the foundations of brick pillars is 50–80 cm. The pillars are connected to each other by a plinth one brick wide, which serves as a blind area for the fence sheathing.

Often, fences are made from one basement with metal posts and struts fixed in it. The basis of it is concrete laid in the formwork. Sometimes a concrete plinth is lined with natural stone, crushed granite or decorative concrete panels. The fence is made of picket fence, metal mesh, grating and other materials.

This is the most short-lived type of fence, its service life is no more than 8-12 years, depending on the climate and the quality of the wood. However, wooden fences are cheap and do not require special construction costs (Fig. 20).

Rice. twenty. Construction of a wooden fence

Wooden parts must be processed. Preparation consists in processing the pillars, sawing and antiseptic picket fence. Slegs, or veins, serve as a supporting element; they are made of thick beams or poles 6–10 cm in diameter, cleared of bark, of any length. You can splice them, making sure that the joints of the upper and lower slabs do not coincide. The bars are spliced ​​along the width of a half-tree or along the height with an oblique cut. In the through nests of the pillars, they are fixed with wooden wedges. You can fasten the legs in the brackets of concrete pillars in the simplest way: in the middle of the bracket, it is bent with hammer blows and pressed into the wood.

For a wooden fence, a picket fence is usually used - planks and boards of various sections 1.2–1.8 m long. It is stuffed with a cord or a pattern. The cord is strongly pulled with the help of two strips with a distance of 3–5 m between them at the height of the upper end of the picket fence. The template is a cross, the stand of which is made of a board, equal in width to the clearance between the picket fence, the crossbar is made of a thin plank 40–50 cm long, nailed to the stand at a right angle. Such a template allows you to quickly stuff the fence crate. The cord in this case is used only for control.

The pillars are sanded with sandpaper, the tops are cut into two slopes. For better preservation of the pillars, their lower part is pasted over with 2-3 layers of roofing material with hot tar.

The veins on top are planed on one slope so that the water flows down. The distance between the posts is 3 m, with a vein length of 6 m.

Pits are dug with a drill, after removing the sod.

The depth of the pits is usually 1–1.3 m, the thickness of the sand cushion is 0.2 m.

The corner posts are installed first, then the rest are placed along the cord. The pole installed in the pit is fixed. Verticality is checked by a level or a plumb line. The gap between the post and the wall of the pit is covered with sand.

After installing the poles, mark the places of the cuts in the poles for the lower and upper veins. The joints of the lower and upper veins are carried to different pillars.

The veins are nailed, then the picket fence is stuffed along the cord or according to the template.

When nailing the fence, in addition to the template, the masters use a special hammer. Such a hammer closer to the striker has a blind hole.

Having inserted the end of the nail into the hole, the end of the nail is bent with a hammer, using it as a lever, then the end of the nail is sunk into the vein. This makes the fence much stronger.

There are many different options for fence battens, but those that increase the durability of the fence deserve special attention. The most common type is a picket fence, the upper ends of which are cut down a slope to roll off moisture. However, such a crate has a drawback - an oblique cut increases the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe butt, and this leads to increased wetting of wood along the fibers. More effective is the use of a longitudinal facing strip installed flat or with a slight slope.

The lower end part of the picket fence is subject to intensive influence of destructive factors. It is advisable to build a plinth of brick, concrete or rubble stone between the pillars.

In the construction of wooden fences, you can use cheap, affordable material - a stock, poles, brushwood. Wicker fences are very decorative. They are constructed from rods of vine, willow, hazel and other flexible woods. The frame of the wattle fence is made of poles and three slats.

The durability of such a fence is increased if materials cleared of bark are used. Before proceeding with the construction of the wattle fence, it is necessary to measure the perimeter of the site and divide it into equal segments. At the boundaries of their connection, pillars 1.5 m high are dug in. For the manufacture of fence shields, three holes are drilled in two side boards for pipes or beams that form horizontal crossbars. Steel pipes with a diameter of 25 mm or bars are fixed in the holes of the side boards to make a frame. It is more convenient to carry out further work on filling its plane by placing the frame horizontally. Each board or rod is sequentially passed over one extreme pipe (or beam), then under the middle one and again over the other extreme one. The next board is skipped in reverse order and placed close to the previous one. Through the side boards, the finished shields are attached to the poles. It is convenient to assemble a fence in this way if you need to replace the old fence with a new one, leaving the old poles.

To make the fence even, when drilling holes, you need to stretch the rope between the extreme posts at the level of each row of holes.

Decorative low fences can be made in the form of a lattice from an inclined set of birch whips with a diameter of 25-40 mm (the lower end of the picket fence is sharpened and driven into the ground at an angle of about 60 °, then attached to the rails) or a low fence made of logs driven or dug into the ground with a diameter of 120 -150 mm.

If a wooden fence is installed on concrete, steel tubular or asbestos-cement tubular pillars, then with proper operation it can last up to 20 years.

A simple, cheap and beautiful fence can be built from poles and wire, which is nailed to the outside of the poles.

Such a fence will be stronger if the lower ends of dry poles, which will then be dug into the ground, are pitched, and nails, staples and wire are covered with oil paint. It is desirable to paint the sawn ends of the poles with the same paint to protect them from moisture. However, if the poles are fresh, there is a chance that they will take root and you will end up with a hedge.

The wire will stretch better and the fence will be stronger if supports are made for the posts and stakes. Stones are placed under the lower ends of the supports or the supports are dug into holes filled with rubble. For the supporting pillars of the fence, a hole is dug out somewhat larger than the diameter of the pillars, and filled with rubble and fragments of stones. For the manufacture of the fence, you can use old slats, tying them on top and bottom with thick wire. The sections of the fence woven in this way are nailed to poles dug in at a distance of 2–3 m from each other.

The bottom ends of wooden fence posts can be impregnated with resin or paint. You can use for this a piece of pipe with a diameter larger than the diameter of the poles. The pipe is fixed in a tripod made of thick wire, its lower end is placed on a brick, filled with resin and heated over a fire. The lower ends of the poles are immersed in the melted resin and held for several minutes so that they have time to soak.

Combined fences have a concrete, stone or brick base and pillars (Fig. 21) . The thickness of the masonry should be at least 40 cm, but with a fence length of more than 20 m, retaining walls should be installed every 8–10 m.

Rice. 21. Types of combined fences: a - a fence made of stone, brick and wood; b - a fence made of bricks and ready-made concrete modules

The spans between the pillars can be made of ready-made concrete modules, mesh, wood, brick or casting. Often what is left of the construction is used for the fence.

For gates lay out pillars with a cross section of at least 50? 50 cm with reinforcement. The foundation is made the same as for brick pillars.

The upper end of the stone fence for protection from the effects of atmospheric precipitation is plastered with mortar or lined with concrete tiles, mortar tiles, covered with roofing iron, and small blind areas are arranged on both sides to drain water. To give a decorative look and at the same time for durability, the facade side of the fence can be made from a combination of different building materials, for example, poles and a plinth - from red brick or natural stone, a fence - from metal or wooden crates.

The pillars are made of a rectangular shape with a section of 250? 750 mm and 140 cm high (together with the plinth). The crate is made of wide boards on wooden slabs.

Durable fences with a metal crate. The load-bearing elements of such a fence can be metal round poles (a plinth 25 cm wide made of brick or natural stone is laid between them) with a crate of reinforcing mesh, which is welded to a frame of pipes, corners or box-shaped profiles. The frame posts are supported by braces fixed in the fence plinth, which can be lined with natural stone or glazed tiles.

It should be remembered that fences made of metal structures need regular painting. Fences made of brick or shaped ceramics with a through crate on sand-cement or lime mortar favorably differ. The base for them is the same as for other fences, with the difference that the distance between the posts must be a multiple of the size of the ceramic block used.

Compared to a picket fence, such a fence lasts longer and does not block the plants from the light. Poles for a mesh fence can be any: steel, asbestos-cement, reinforced concrete or wood. It is not necessary to cement them, although pouring the base makes the fence more stable. But you can simply strengthen the pillars with bricks buried flush with the ground. The easiest way is to install steel pipes that are hammered with a sledgehammer.

The mesh usually goes on sale in rolls of 10–20 m, 1.5–2 m wide. When installed on poles, the mesh is raised 15–25 cm above the ground so that its bottom rusts less.

When spans between posts are less than 3 m, the mesh does not bend or sag even without a tie to a stretched wire.

However, a mesh fixed on a wire with a diameter of 5-6 mm, stretched between the posts, is both more beautiful and more reliable. The fence looks good, in which wooden veins pass along the top and bottom of the pillars, to which the grid is attached. The veins are made from a board 30–40 mm thick and about 10 cm wide.

The most solid and beautiful is the fence made of metal sections in the form of frames, to which the mesh is welded.

When installed, corner posts often tilt inward, the mesh sagging. You can strengthen them with struts and struts.

This type of fence is the most durable and convenient for country and garden plots. They combine reliability, economy and ease of installation.

Ready-made mesh fence sections are available for sale, but you can make them yourself. To make such a mesh fence, you need concrete poles, a steel corner and a mesh. Choose an equilateral corner with a shelf of at least 32 mm and a different-sided one - at least 40? 25 mm. The grid is on sale in rolls in the size 1,5? 10 m. Sections are made 3 m long. One corner 9 m long is enough for one section.

The ends of the segments are sawn at an angle of 45 ° and the frame is welded. The mesh is welded in 2-3 places to one short side.

Further, using a crowbar as a lever, they stretch the mesh and weld it in 2–3 places to the other short side of the frame. Pulling the mesh, weld it in 2-3 places in the middle of one long side, then the other. Pulling the mesh, weld it in the corners, and then around the entire perimeter in increments of 8–10 cm. The mesh can be attached to the frame with wire threaded through the holes in the corner.

Pillars under the mesh fence are placed taking into account the length of the section. Sections are welded to overlays embedded in poles or to clamps. Corner sections can be strengthened by welding braces from the corner.

When constructing such a fence, it is not necessary to strengthen the corners. However, sometimes the grid has to be joined from several pieces. You can separate (unscrew) the outer wire, attach the ends of two pieces to each other, and then connect them by screwing the wire. The connection will be strong and invisible.

The second way: connect the ends of the pieces with a piece of straight wire, penetrating the cells with it, like a knitting needle.

After that, it can be attached to the poles. If wooden veins are mounted on them, this operation is not difficult: the mesh is slightly stretched and nailed. If it needs to be hung on a wire or only on poles, a sufficiently strong tension will be required.

A steel bar is passed through the extreme mesh cells, a cable is tied to it, with the help of which tension is carried out. It is easier to use a lever - a long strong pole, one end of which is lowered into the hole (so as not to slip), and the other is pulled with ropes.

Another tensioner is based on the principle of a bow: a strong double rope or cable is twisted. A threaded turnbuckle can be used.

A bow or clutch must be hooked to a tree, pole, building, or a log dug into the ground. The grid is attached to the posts with wire, preferably stainless, or bolts with a large diameter washer - this is more reliable and accurate.

The final operation is coloring the mesh. This work is laborious, and the smaller the cells, the more difficult it is to paint over them. Therefore, it is desirable to use a grid with large cells (30-50 mm), which looks more beautiful and is easier to paint. It is more convenient to work together, standing on both sides of the fence opposite each other. For painting, use a brush, since the paint roller does not stain the weave.

Wire mesh for a fence is easy to make yourself with the help of simple tools. The most common mesh sizes (height, width) of wire mesh are 80? 80 mm, 60? 60 and 45? 45 mm. Let us give an example of a design for weaving a wire mesh and a process for weaving a mesh with cells of size 80? 80 mm.

To prevent the wire from getting tangled, it is put in concentric circles on a feed drum - an inverted bucket placed on a flat board, under which a large bearing is placed. The position of the bucket is fixed with a load.

From the feed drum, the wire enters the device for pre-tensioning, which is a piece of steel channel, in which three rollers are mounted. By changing the position of the central roller, the tension force of the wire is adjusted. To make the rollers rotate easily, restrictive washers 1–1.5 mm thick are put on the bolts that serve as the axis of the rollers on both sides. After tension, the wire is removed with a rag lying on a stand, abundantly soaked in oil.

The lubricated wire is sent to a bending machine mounted on a flat steel plate over 0.5m long attached to a sturdy work table. The wire bending machine is a thick-walled steel tube in which a hard flat steel blade rotates. A 4–5 mm spiral groove is cut in the pipe with a 45° pitch, which ends with a round hole at a distance of 5 cm from the edge of the pipe. The pipe is welded to the steel angle (so that the welding does not cover the groove) and then the angle with the pipe to the base plate. After that, the axis of the supporting part is manufactured and installed. The correct installation of the support part is regulated by washers. The knife in the groove of the shaft is reinforced with a screw or pin. The shaft must rotate freely. A hole is drilled at the top of the supporting part for filling the lubricant. The gap between the pipe walls and the knife should be 0.5–1 mm.

The working table is positioned so that the wire stretched at an angle goes up to the receiving drum. As a drum, you can use a rack to which a rotating wooden shaft or pole is attached to wind the wire mesh. The mesh is stretched with a load - bricks suspended from a strong wire. The bent end of the wire is attached to one of the mesh cells. When part of the mesh is wound on the drum shaft, the hook of the tension wire is hooked onto another mesh cell.

Wire mesh weaving is performed in the following sequence. Work begins with a thorough lubrication of the tensioner and bending machine. The wire is pulled through the tensioner and lubricator, the end of it is bent into a hook shape for half the length of the side of the cell, the wire is pulled through the groove of the pipe of the bender and attached to the edge of the knife. The wire coming out of the machine is cut into identical segments and intertwined on the desktop. The finished mesh is wound on the drum shaft. Using a homemade bending machine, you can weave a wire mesh of any height and length. The most suitable mesh for weaving is 2.2 mm soft galvanized wire, from 1.45 m of which 1 m of wavy is obtained.

The mass of 1 m of wire is 30 g, therefore, for 1 m 2 of the grid, it will require 1.1 kg. If the wire is hard and does not bend well, the skein is heated on a fire and allowed to cool slowly.

There are many gate designs made of various materials (Fig. 22). They must be sufficiently strong and durable, have a locking device that prevents spontaneous closing of the wings in gusty winds.

Rice. 22. Gate in stone wall

Gates are built, as a rule, from two halves (leaves) with a total width of 2.2–2.4 m, a height of 1.6–1.8 m, a gate width of about 1 m. side of the street for the entry of vehicles. Often, during the construction of the gate, there is a difficulty in equipping the entrance-exit - a segment of the road connecting the yard with the carriageway of the street. If a drainage ditch runs along the site, the entrance must be built in such a way as not to disturb the drainage. A metal or concrete pipe of the appropriate diameter and a length of at least 3.5 m is laid at the bottom of the ditch, an embankment is made and it is limited on the sides by formwork made of thick boards, logs or concrete. The entrance must be paved.

The depth under the pillars must be at least 60–80 cm, otherwise the pillars may swing and the gate will not close. The bases of concrete, metal and wooden poles are set to a depth of about 1 m, covered with rubble, tamped and concreted the upper part of the backfill. The most common gate material is wood.

When fenced with a picket fence, gates are usually made 2.8–3 m wide, the poles for them are additionally strengthened. The braces and strapping of both halves of the gate are made on spikes. Gates are hung on poles using special gate hinges. They are placed from the inside (the gates open towards the site). The fence is stuffed using a template. To lock the gate, it is better to use a device, the main part of which is a bar with a section of 40? 80 mm.

The bar is inserted at one end into an eye fixed on one pole. They are laid in two V-shaped brackets located on both converging gate leaves. Then the beam is pushed into the second eye fixed on another pole. With the help of a cape and a lock, the gate is closed. Hinging wooden gates on poles not made of logs is similar to hanging wicket doors.

In the manufacture of gates from a metal mesh, both halves of the gate are made in the same way as the sections of the fence, but braces are required. The hinges are welded to the halves of the gate and fixed to the posts. Loops for the lock are welded in the middle of both gate leaves.

Important elements of all gates are the so-called thrust bearings - small columns. When the gate is closed, the middle bearing keeps it in a horizontal position and prevents the gate from tilting or opening backwards. Side bearings keep the gate open.

The safety of metal poles, mesh fence sections depends on the correctness and regularity of painting. Before painting the metal parts of the fence, it is imperative to remove rust from them. This work is done mechanically for a long time, and sometimes it is impossible. There are chemical compositions with which parts are easily and quickly cleaned to a shine.

On sale there are ready-made compositions for removing rust. Here are some examples of self-preparation of such compositions.

Recipe 1. In 1 liter of a 15% hydrochloric acid solution, add 1 tablet of urotropine. The mixture is applied to metal parts with a brush several times until the surfaces are completely free of rust.

Then a 5–10% solution of soda ash is applied with a brush and the metal is thoroughly washed.

Recipe 2. Prepare two solutions.

Solution A. Concentrated formaldehyde is mixed with 25% ammonia in a volume ratio of 8:5.

Solution B. Make a 15% solution of hydrochloric acid, adding 1 tablet of hexamine for each liter of solution. The solutions are mixed at the rate of 26 ml of solution A per liter of solution B. Further processing is the same as in recipe 1.

Recipe 3. Prepare two solutions.

Solution A. Hydrochloric acid - 470 ml, water - 300 ml, urotropine - 1 tablet, asbestos (crumb) - 40 g.

Solution B. Liquid glass - 50 ml, water - 150 ml.

Solution B is poured into solution A, mixed. Consume after aging for 18-20 hours. Processing is the same as in recipe 1.

For painting metal parts of the fence, as a rule, asphalt, bituminous and pitch varnishes are used. They are all black, unfortunately.

It is possible to coat metal with organosilicon (KO), rubber (KCh), phenolic (FL), vinyl chloride (XC) and some other paints. It is only necessary to ensure that the first digit of the brand after the letters is 1. This means that the paint is intended for outdoor use.

Metal gates. Such gates are usually equipped with a mechanism for fixing the leaves in the closed and open positions. It works in such a way that the leaves, having passed the neutral position (approximately 45 °), are held by a spring in the closed or open position. In addition, such a system provides the necessary security, excluding spontaneous closing of the wings during gusts of wind.

For the manufacture of the gate, four backs of metal beds of the same design are required. They are disassembled, sawn in half arcs, into which inserts from a pipe of the same diameter are inserted. On the sides and middle of the frames, strips of steel with a cross section of 5? 40 mm. The horizontal elements of the crate are made of thin-walled pipes with a diameter of 20–22 mm, the vertical elements are made of pipes with a diameter of 10–12 mm, and the semi-arcs are made of strip steel with a cross section of 4? 25 mm.

The manufacture and assembly of the gate can be facilitated by making a plaz - a life-size contour drawing of one gate leaf on plywood, hardboard, cardboard, etc.

All parts are laid out along the contour of the drawing on the plaza and seized on one side by welding. Then the sash is removed and completely scalded. In the middle of the gate, two linings of sheet steel 4 mm thick are welded for fastening a locking device and a latch built into the gate, the box of which is made of corners, and the frame is made of pipes with a diameter of 28–30 mm and corners 30? thirty ? 3 mm. The gate is hung on two door hinges welded to the frame and frame so that the gate can be removed.

On the outer sides of the gate leaves, openings are made for the passage of the wiring of the spring mechanism. It is attached to the gate on a removable axis, and on the other hand, with a spring to a metal rack-frame inside the pole.

Part of the internal volume of one of the pillars is used for the mailbox device. Its frame is welded from corners with a section of 25? 25? 3 mm, sheathed with sheet iron on all sides, and a vertical slot is made on the front wall for postal receipts. On the back wall of the box, a door is made that closes with a window lock.

Especially carefully it is necessary to build foundations for pillars, masonry and fastening of pivots for hanging gates. The foundation is laid with a size of 50? 50 cm and a depth of at least 80 cm. A metal pipe with a diameter of 50-60 mm is placed in the middle of it, fixed with a quarry and poured with a concrete screed. Columns with a section of 380? 380 mm are laid out from red brick (one and a half bricks) with filling the void with the remnants of mortar and brick battle. During laying, pins are installed from a steel bar with a diameter of 15–16 mm in an L-shaped form and a corner measuring 40? 40? 410 mm, which, with the help of a cross member welded to it, is tied with soft wire to the metal pipe of the pole.

Brickwork is led under the jointing. If the fence is already standing, the ends must be wrapped with roofing material and overlaid with bricks. If there is no fence yet, metal corners 50? fifty ? 450 mm and fasten them to a metal pipe inside the pole, fasten them to the free ends of the corners on bolts or screws.

The gate is hung on the pivots with the help of bushings welded to the frame. In the middle of the passage, a stop is arranged for the closed position of the gate, on the side - two stops for the open position of the leaves.

Gates are lattice lifting. Very easy to use (due to the counterweight) and easy to manufacture. They can cover a span of up to 3 m, which makes them suitable for equipping the entrance to the garage, entering the yard, driving cattle, etc. The upper and lower hinged gates are hung on axles in paired gate posts. The end of the upper slab, facing the other side of the post, is provided with a counterweight (fixed load) that balances the sash with a crate made of a picket fence, hinged to the upper and lower slabs.

Wooden gates and gates. Gates and wickets made of wood consist of a frame and a crate. Rectangular frames are knitted with a through single spike from bars with a section of 50? 100 mm, always with a diagonal brace to prevent sagging of the gate leaves. Frames are best assembled using epoxy glue, as it is not afraid of moisture.

Spike connections are additionally strengthened with screws or dowels (wooden nails). Ready-made frames are hung and adjusted without crates, which facilitates the construction of the gate and the adjustment of the picket fence in height.

The gate and the gate are hung on barn-type hinges. To attach them to metal or concrete poles, wooden plates are installed, which are attached to the poles with nails, bolts or screws. It is advisable to equip the gate with a mortise lock, lockable from the inside and outside, the gate - with a lock from the side of the yard, towards which they open. With a large span of the gate, you can lock them with the help of a slide and four brackets. In the closed position, the sashes rest against the limiter installed in the middle of the entrance, in the open position they are locked with a spring lock.

The rack is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20–25 mm and a length of 40–50 cm. An oblique slot is cut out in the pipe so that, under the action of a spring, the latch rises only to the level of the lower edge of the gate. It is cut out of sheet steel 3–4 mm thick and attached to a rack on an axle. Any spring can be used, but it should not be tight; apply and ordinary gum, twisted into a tourniquet.

The crate is stuffed after hanging the frames at the same level as the fence fence, starting from the middle of the gate, the first bar is nailed to one of the halves exactly at the junction of the frames, closing it and forming a fold necessary for locking the gate.

When operating the gate in winter, you should correctly set the clearance between the crate and the roadbed: it should be at least 10–15 cm (based on snow cover).

It is not difficult to make a gate if both the fence and the poles are made of wood. First, two poles for the gate are prepared, hemming them (make one side flat). A beam is nailed from the side of the notch. The pillars are buried in a hole, given that the gate should open to the street (in winter it will be easier to free it from snow).

The headband of the gate is both a decoration and a rigid connection between the pillars. If such a connection is not made, in spring or autumn the poles may warp.

For a gate that does not go out to the main street, the headband can be made from a board that tightens the posts of the gate. For the safety of the gates, a roof made of sheet iron is placed along the headband.

The strapping (frame) of the gate is made on spikes and a brace is required. The hinges are mounted on screws, preferably galvanized or cadmium-plated. Then a picket fence is nailed to the harness, handles and a lock are fixed.

As a basis for the headband, you can also take an iron strip with a cross section of 4? 80 mm. Holes are drilled in the strip to secure the roof boards. A strip of roofing felt (roofing material, glassine) is laid between the iron strip and the boards. From above, the boards are covered with galvanized sheet iron, the edges of which can be decorated with a perforated pattern, a so-called kokoshnik made of bent or perforated iron is placed.

If the fence has poles made of metal pipes, the gate and the headband are attached to them. Using thermite welding, the hinges are welded to the pole. A corner is welded to the second pillar. The iron strip of the headband is also welded to the posts.

If you cannot use welding, use standard clamps that are attached to the poles. Prepare two wooden bars, in which one quarter is chosen. The ends of the clamps that secure the bars are cut so that one hole for the bolt remains.

Veined bars are fixed with clamps, then loops are placed in the selected quarter of the bar and a gate is hung. In the same way, a gate is installed on asbestos-cement pillars.

A wrought iron gate goes well with a mesh fence. In this case, powerful poles (not wooden) are needed, which are embedded in a larger concrete base. Due to the rigidity of the frame, the mesh fence does not pull the gate posts, so the gate can be made without a headband.

The pads welded to the poles are taken wider than usual. Hinges are welded to two overlays shortened on one side, a corner is welded to the curved overlays at the other post (to stop the gate).

The door of the gate is made in the same way as the fence to the porch. Door elements are welded with thermite or riveted.

If the headband of the gate is attached to asbestos-cement poles, then before pouring them, a threaded stud is welded to the reinforcement laid in the poles at the outer end. After installing such a pole, a metal strip of the headband is attached to the stud with a nut. Two layers of roofing are laid between the strip and the roof board.

In the manufacture of homemade concrete pillars, the stud is also welded to the reinforcement. Holes are made in the end board of the mold through which the ends of the pins are passed.

It is more difficult to reinforce bolts (studs) in prefabricated concrete pillars. In such pillars, a hole is drilled or etched in the upper end, in which a bolt (stud) is fixed with special "iron" putties. Two putty recipes have already been given. The following composition can also be used: cement grade M300 and higher is kneaded on a liquid solution of PVA glue. The hole in the column is coated with PVA glue, the bolt is degreased and also coated with PVA glue. Then the bolt is fixed in the hole with putty.

It is advisable to equip the gate with a bell and an electromagnetic latch. If the gate is used infrequently, then the gate is constantly in operation. It is not difficult to make a strong beautiful gate.

You can use, for example, a frame from an old metal bed, you only need to weld the hinges and patterns from a steel bar.

The construction of a new gate from corners, bars of a 1 mm metal plate begins with the manufacture of a frame. From the corners, workpieces of the appropriate length are cut, the butt corners are cut at an angle of 45 ° and all workpieces are welded. When the frame is ready, it is filled with a decorative lattice of bars, curved on a simple device.

The locking device is more reliable and durable. The bushings can also serve as hinges for hanging the gate: welded to the frame, they are put on L-shaped axial rods on the pole. A door lock is welded on the inside, covering it with a metal plate with a key hole.

After welding, the seams are thoroughly cleaned of scale with a metal brush, the surface of the parts and the gate itself are treated before painting. The prepared gate is primed in dry weather, after drying it is cleaned with emery cloth and painted with bituminous varnish or oil paints.

Bridges connect opposite banks of water bodies, elements of the road and path network and can be open and closed (pipe crossings) (Fig. 23). These are quite complex engineering structures, and it is hardly appropriate to build a bridge in accordance with all the rules in a private park.

Rice. 23. Types of the simplest bridge structures

Open bridges are built on wide water channels and are stone arched or hanging with an upper platform at the same level as the road and path network approaches to it. To imitate a closed bridge, you can make a pergola or arch over it.

Bridges are reinforced concrete, wooden or metal and are built according to specially designed projects (Fig. 24).

Rice. 24. garden bridge

A bridge over a stream or ravine will decorate any landscape with water bodies. And even footbridges on the bank of a small pond are a good find for a designer.

The bridge consists of a span structure and supports. With a wooden span structure, the supports can be wooden or stone. The span structure of the bridge includes the roadway, the main load-bearing structures (main trusses) and connections.

The carriageway or pedestrian part consists of a roadbed supported by a system of longitudinal and transverse beams. Usually these are steel profile parts (corners, rails and channel). Boards are laid across them, which serve as a road surface. The spatial immutability of the span, as well as the transfer of horizontal loads to the supports (wind pressure, braking forces, etc.) are ensured by the joint work of longitudinal and transverse braces, purlins, cross beams and main trusses.

Wooden poles should be treated with an antiseptic and covered with bitumen to prevent wood decay. In addition, at the junctions of the bridge with the shore, it must be reinforced with concrete or boulders so that the connection is strong and the shore does not subside. Concrete pipes can be used instead of trusses and supports. Water will flow through the lumen of the pipe, and the pipe itself (or several) will serve as a support for the bridge. In this case, the bridge will be simple and durable, all that remains is to decorate it - build a railing, cultivate the shore, install a pergola or arch.

A hanging bridge made of vines, a cable car bridge, a bridge made of old tree trunks laid next to each other will help diversify the landscape and decorate the reservoir. If there is no reservoir, then it is quite possible to arrange it.

In a landscape gardening facility, water bodies have one of the important architectural, aesthetic and health-improving values, since together with plantings they purify the air from dust, lower its temperature on a hot summer day (by 3–5 ° C), increase relative humidity ( by 20-30%), i.e. they create a kind of microclimate that increases the vitality of a person. In addition, the presence of water bodies improves the condition of the green spaces themselves. But any pond requires constant care.

In the reservoirs of landscape gardening objects in the summer-autumn period, it is necessary to regulate the exchange of water at least 2-4 times. The depth of the reservoir in the spring and summer should be at least 1.5 m.

Improvement of natural reservoirs. The natural reservoirs of the garden and park object include rivers, lakes, ponds, channels, the main types of improvement of which are slope fixing and bottom cleaning.

There are several ways of fastening slopes, when choosing which special attention should be paid to the aesthetic perception of the technical structure.

The most difficult in technical execution is the fastening of slopes of lakes, flowing ponds and embankments of watercourses.

The stability of the slopes is ensured by the installation of a low banquet wall, reaching the middle water line, with a continuous sheet pile wooden or reinforced concrete row of piles, which excludes the washing out of soil from the bottom of the slope during wave formation. Such a low anchorage makes it possible not to violate the biological relationship between aquatic and coastal vegetation and the normal life of waterfowl inhabiting inland waters. The surface of the slope above the banquet wall is also reinforced with various materials to prevent the effects of precipitation, temperature fluctuations, periodic rises in water, wind or ship waves. As a rule, herbal clothes are used in such cases.

Within the boundaries of water rises, slopes must be reinforced with masonry, reinforced concrete tiles with holes for plant soil and sowing seeds, or with continuous sodding.

The slopes of canals, rivers and streams in the forested area are fastened in simple ways:

Planting twigs or willow shoots;

Single planting of cuttings or shoots in a checkerboard pattern.

In the first case, in the spring, rods 1.5–2 m long are laid horizontally in pre-prepared grooves arranged in parallel rows and covered with vegetable soil. The distance between the rows is 1–2 m. The rods are reinforced with stakes 0.8–1 m long, driving them 4/5 of the length into the slope soil. During the month, regular watering is carried out - first daily, and then after 2-3 days. In the first year (autumn), grown plants are pruned “on a stump”.

In the second case, cuttings and shoots of willow or poplar are planted in prepared soil in a checkerboard pattern. The landing technique and the technology of subsequent care for them are common. Distance in rows and between rows - 0.8 m.

Cleaning the bottom of natural reservoirs is carried out in two ways: with pumping water from the entire reservoir and without pumping.

When cleaning in the first way with electric or diesel pumps, all water is pumped into another reservoir or into a storm sewer, for which a depression is arranged at the lowest slope of the bottom of the reservoir - a "pit" - for water intake. The surface freed from water is left for several days to dry, then the bottom silt is raked to the edges of the reservoir and moved to storage sites, where after a year of ventilation it can be used for landscaping purposes. The cleaned bottom of the reservoir is leveled according to the design marks and covered with a layer of drainage material - coarse sand or gravel - at least 20 cm thick. The banks are fixed using one of the methods described above; on the territories adjacent to them, paths are laid, platforms, structures and small architectural forms are placed. Existing green spaces, if necessary, are supplemented with new plantings and flower beds.

In the second way (without pumping water), the reservoir is cleaned with the help of dredges and dredgers of different sizes. The choice of brands of mechanisms and methods of moving silt pulp depend on the size of the reservoir and its depth.

An artificial reservoir created on the site will significantly increase the comfort of the garden, enrich the landscape and increase the value of the property. In modern conditions, territories for gardens and parks are usually represented by waste lands, peat bogs, swamps and landfills, where artificial lakes, ponds, pools and streams can be built.

Lake. A lake is an artificially created deep-water space that has a permanent visible inflow (river, stream, in rare cases, a conduit) and water outlet through a dam or downpipe, which create a current in the water column, although hardly noticeable. The bottom of the reservoir is designed with an appropriate slope.

The basis for the construction of a reservoir can be natural depressions on the surface of the site, which, when deepened, become the bottom of the lake, in the center of which a channel is made with slopes from the water supply source to the water intake. The latter may be an underlying body of water or a storm sewer network. The shores of the lake and their outlines are subject to the external landscape environment and emphasize its main viewpoints or contribute to their comprehensive review.

The profile of the shores should have pronounced relief drops: a hill, stone ridges and ledges with closely approaching dark coniferous and dark-leaved plantations on the northern side of the lake and low vast lawn spaces with separate groups of freely growing trees and shrubs on the southeastern side. This combination of relief and vegetation makes it possible to solve the spatial illumination of the water surface. The dimensions of the lake, the methods of its arrangement and feeding are accepted by a special project, which can be carried out by a specialized organization.

Ponds. A pond is an artificially created deep closed water structure fed by the collection of surface melt and rainwater and underground groundwater.

Ponds are arranged on the folds of the relief, where surface runoff collects. On a flat surface, they are created by digging a three-dimensional pit and directing the slopes of the surface towards it with a general vertical planning of the site.

Ponds are bodies of water with a smaller area than lakes; they are intended for swimming, boating, breeding waterfowl and fish.

The pond includes a power source - conduits for artificial feeding with melt and rainwater, specially equipped hydraulic structures in a dam or earthen slope: drain pipes, stop valves designed to replace water and clean the reservoir (Fig. 25). The construction of modern ponds is carried out according to technical working projects based on in-depth study and application of the studies.

Rice. 25. Scheme of the device of the simplest pond

Ponds are distinguished by power sources, which determine not only their location, but also the area of ​​the water surface, the depth and conditions for their further operation and maintenance. They can be flowing, while rivers, streams, spring or ground waters will be their power sources, and stagnant, when city water conduits or water flows from other water bodies by gravity or forcibly, as well as surface water runoff.

Ponds can be single or combined with others to form an entire water system with a depth of at least 1 m near the coast and up to 4.5 m in the middle with a slope of 1:5 from the coastline. Such parameters of the pond prevent the rapid overgrowing of the reservoir with algae and sedge, which contributes to the development of mosquito larvae, silting of the bottom, flowering of the water surface and the appearance of an unpleasant pungent smell of rotting vegetation.

When digging a pond bowl with excavators or bulldozers, the soil is used for vertical planning of the territory. The bottom of the reservoir is given design slopes to ensure self-draining of water through the drain holes. When constructing a pond bed, special attention is paid to preventing water from filtering through it into the ground. The impermeability of the pond bed is ensured by the presence of banded clays at its base. If the base consists of permeable soils (sand, sandy loam), then its waterproofing is required. The easiest and most affordable way is to build a clay base, or "castle".

After laying out the bed of the bowl, crumpled clay, “clay dough” or fatty loam is laid on its surface with a layer of 0.3–0.5 m with layer-by-layer (0.15–0.2 m) compaction with a rammer. The clay layer should extend 0.4–0.5 m above the water's edge in order to waterproof the banks.

On top of the waterproof clay coating - the "castle" - a gravel surcharge with a layer thickness of 4-5 cm is arranged, which is sunk into the clay with a rammer, turning it into a dense gravel base. Further, a layer of coarse-grained sand up to 15 cm thick is laid on the surface. Such waterproofing provides almost complete water tightness of the pond bed. For small ponds, it is possible to use continuous laying on a clay base instead of a gravel-sand surcharge of cobblestone (according to the principle of a cobblestone pavement). Simultaneously with the waterproofing work, a drain device is installed.

Another way to waterproof the bed and walls for small pond sizes is to install roofing or roofing felt on bitumen along the bottom.

On a carefully planned and compacted soil base, the bed is laid with one or two layers of roofing felt or roofing material overlapping, with one sheet overlapping with another by 8–10 cm and puttying these seams with heated bitumen.

With a two-layer coating, the surface of the first layer of insulating material after laying on the base is covered with heated bitumen and a second layer of insulating material is laid on it in a perpendicular direction. The seams formed between the layers are coated with bitumen. Insulation layers are brought to the coastline 0.4–0.5 m above the water's edge, their ends are carefully fixed with soil and gravel poured on top. On the insulating coating made in this way, a layer of coarse-grained sand 5 cm thick is poured and leveled.

Ponds located on rivers, streams and ravines are created using impervious earthen dams, wooden or reinforced concrete walls with a spillway device, on top of which driveways or passages are built connecting the banks. Dam slopes - from 1:1.5 to 1:3.5.

Pools are open artificial reservoirs with a purpose-built tub for filling and draining water. By appointment, they are splashing, decorative, etc. (depending on the size of the site); bathtubs - large and small. In addition, pools can be open and closed (Fig. 26).

Rice. 26. indoor pool

Open, as a rule, are used in the summer. But sometimes such pools are built with artificial water heating, which allows them to be used year-round.

The shape of the pool is any, but it should be remembered that it depends on the purpose of the pool. For example, sports pools are mostly rectangular in shape and have a length that is a multiple of 12.5 m.

Depending on the purpose of the pool, its bath usually consists of two parts: shallow (0.7–1 m deep) and deep (2.5–4.5 m). Outdoor pools are completely or partially buried in the ground. The bottom and walls of the bath, made of reinforced concrete and covered with a finishing material, are waterproofed. The pools provide water, electricity and sewerage. The areas around the pool are mowed lawns with dense turf, and the paths and areas must have a hard top surface.

The material for the manufacture of bathtubs are monolithic or prefabricated reinforced concrete, plastic. The inner surface of the bath should not be slippery, and its corners should be rounded. Water is supplied to the pool through a hole in the center of the side wall and is discharged through special bottom drains into the storm sewer network.

Several pool options. Consider the order of work in the construction of a small pool measuring 2? 2 m and a depth of 0.6 m. To prevent moisture from accumulating at the bottom during construction, drainage must be provided. To do this, cut the bottom with a slope to the center of the pit, dig a small hole 0.3–0.4 m deep, then mark points for pegs. Should you get a square of 1.8? 1.8 m, at the corners of which pegs with a cross section of 5? 5 cm and 90 cm long, impregnated with bitumen so that the upper ends rise 25 mm above the ground.

The walls of the pit are sheathed with roofing material, wrapping its upper edge around a board with a section of 25? 100 mm and nail it to the pegs so that the roofing material is sandwiched between the pegs and the board, and the board rises 15 mm above the peg. The lower edge of the roofing material is wrapped inside the pit, having previously been cut in the corners. After that, the drainage at the bottom of the pit is filled with gravel until a flat surface is formed. From above the bottom is covered with sand. The depth of the pit to the upper edge of the board is about 55 cm. The gap between the walls of the pit and the roofing material is covered with gravel for lateral drainage.

Next, you need to make removable gratings from the rails and cut out the pool bath from a plastic film measuring 3? 3 m. The edges of the film, combined with the fabric, are placed between the slats with a cross section of 15? 50 mm and 2 m long and fastened with nails. Then they spread the bath at the bottom of the pit and, turning the formed corners to the outside, lay the slats for the boards fixed on the pegs. Top slats are fixed. The fixing elements are four sections, two with a longitudinal arrangement of rails (long) and two with a transverse (short). The long section is assembled from three transverse struts - boards with a section of 100? 20 mm, to which boards with a section of 25? 100 mm and 440 mm long. Spacers are included in the frame.

The upper plane in the longitudinal direction is sheathed with slats with a section of 40? 15 mm at 10 mm intervals. The short section has a length of 185 cm, the outer spacers serve as the ends of the frame. The slats of the upper plane are placed in the transverse direction. The finished sections are installed so that the grooves of the transverse struts fix the embedded rails of the bath. All wooden parts are primed with drying oil, painted or varnished.

For the winter, the film bath is removed. If you fold it diagonally and wrap the remaining "tail" around the assembled rails, you get a bundle of 200? thirty ? 20 cm. The pit is covered with boards to prevent precipitation.

Swimming pool for children. The area of ​​such a pool is about 4 m 2. The bottom from the entrance to the pool drops by a maximum of 50 cm (you can make steps 10–15 cm high). From the side of the entrance, an English lawn is laid out or tiles are laid out so that dirt does not get into the water.

The pool is concrete, its bottom is reinforced. It is desirable that the pool be placed on clay soil that does not allow water to pass through. In the absence of clay, it is advisable to bring it before concreting the floor and lay it on the bottom with a layer of 10-11 cm, carefully compact it. Tiles are laid along the edges of the pool in order to avoid dirt from entering.

Hard plastic pipes are used to drain water, the outlet is placed in the deepest place. When concreting, it should be ensured that the flat part of the bottom drops moderately towards the outlet.

An overflow pipe is installed near the high wall to drain excess water and remove dirt from the surface of the pool. Water should flow down in a thin layer of maximum width. In square-shaped pools, dirt collects in the corners, so it is best to arrange catchments in the two back corners. Water is diverted to the collection and used to replenish the pool. The collection is built of concrete with a plan size of at least 70? 70 cm. For safety, it is covered with a wooden grate or lid.

Swimming pool. This is a small building with an area of ​​​​4 m 2, a depth of 80 to 100 cm. The most convenient material is reinforced concrete.

The pipeline for draining water is made of plastic pipes. A pipe for draining water is laid at the lowest point of the bottom and a pipe with an internal thread is mounted on it, on which the pipe is perpendicularly fixed to remove dirt from the surface of the water. A nut is screwed onto the upper end of the pipe, unscrewing which, you can open the outlet.

For concreting a wall 80–100 cm high and 8 cm thick, a concrete mix with a ratio of cement and sand (gravel) of 1:6 is used. The size of gravel or pebbles is no more than 3 cm. On dry days, it is necessary to moisten the concrete along with the formwork. The walls of the pool are plastered with a finishing cement mortar, a cement screed is laid on the bottom or laid out with tiles.

For the winter, the water is drained from the pool, the outlet is left open. After draining the water, it is covered with a lid made of boards, and roofing or film is placed on top.

Large swimming pool. Swimming pool size 12? It is desirable to place 8 m away from trees so that the leaves do not fall into the water.

From the lowest point of the pit, a shallow groove for a sewer pipe 5–6 m long and 50 mm in diameter is dug outside the pool, the end of the pipe is bent up so that it protrudes about 20 cm above the bottom of the pit, a plastic sleeve with a removable grate is put on it and fixed its clamp or copper wire. A thin layer of washed gravel or crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the pit and concrete is laid in a layer of 7–8 cm. A metal mesh of steel reinforcing bar or wire 6–8 mm in diameter with cells of 20 30 cm. A second layer of mortar about 8 cm thick is laid out on the reinforcement and leveled well. The thickness of the concrete base, together with the gravel substrate, must be at least 20 cm.

The walls of the pool are best laid out of brick. It is advisable to cement the brickwork from the inside of the pool, and insulate it with bitumen from the outside. The steps of the stairs to the pool and the foot bath are made of bricks laid on a base of gravel and concrete. A drain hole is provided in the corner of the bath.

After two or three days, when the concrete hardens, you can close up bumps, shells. For this purpose, a solution of cement and sand (1: 3) is used. For quick setting, 1–2% liquid glass is added to the solution.

After two or three weeks, when the concrete is strong enough, they begin to line the curb and finish the pool. It is desirable to veneer the border with brick on cement mortar. Brick is laid across the wall of the pool. Sharp edges protruding into the pool must be blunted with an emery stone.

Around the pool, a flat earth embankment 1 m wide is made, equal in height to the pool wall. Near the pool, you can make a small beach, line the horizontal part of the embankment with decorative flat stones of irregular shape or large pebbles. The slopes of the embankment and the gaps between the stones are laid out with turf or sown with grass. The pool is filled with clean water: tap, river or well.

There is a lawn around the pool. A green grass carpet will decorate the yard, on a hot day it will give coolness, it will trap dust and harmful gases. A mixture of herbs is sown on a leveled, fertilized (preferably peat) soil: meadow bluegrass (5 parts), meadow fescue (1 part), bent grass (2 parts, you can add perennial ryegrass). Lawn grasses are best sown in the spring. The seeds are raked into the ground shallowly, the first 8-10 days the plot is watered. The lawn requires constant care, in summer it must be watered, fertilized and mowed so that the height of the grass does not exceed 5–6 cm. Mowing strengthens the root system of plants, destroys annuals and weakens the development of perennial weeds. The first time the grass is mowed three weeks after germination.

Swimming pools from prefabricated prefabricated structures are equipped with water supply and water pumping equipment. They are installed on a flat area of ​​​​the site, disassembled for the winter and stored for storage. The diameter of prefabricated pools is from 5 to 7 m, the depth (height) is 1.2 m.

The construction of the pool involves a large amount of earthwork, but it can be significantly reduced. The design of the pool allows you to create a new topography of the site, simplifies the drainage of water and reduces the cost of waterproofing. In addition, the tiled mound can be used as a solarium. The pool area is usually 10–15 m 2. A place is chosen and a site is marked out taking into account the width of the embankment, which, as a rule, is 1/3 of the entire width of the pool. Then they remove the top layer of soil and mark trenches for a pit 60 cm deep. The walls are carefully leveled and poured with concrete as quickly as possible so that they do not have time to crumble. Before concreting, the outer walls of the trench are covered with sheets of roofing material with an overlap of 20–30 cm, which serve as waterproofing. Their length is taken with a margin, so that it is enough to lay the formwork. Then the reinforcement is installed in the form of a coarse mesh.

The trench is filled with concrete, the formwork is installed and the upper part of the walls is poured, leaving a hole for the overflow and drain pipes. Two pieces of asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 100–120 mm are inserted between the walls of the trench. After the concrete "grabs" and acquires sufficient strength, the formwork is removed and a pit is dug, while forming an embankment to the bottom of the walls. Crushed stone or gravel is poured into the bottom and carefully compacted with a layer of 10 cm, after which a layer of sand is laid, leveled and compacted with water. Waterproofing is spread on the surface - roofing felt or plastic film in several layers, then reinforcement is laid and poured with concrete. The bottom must be made with a slope of 5–6% towards the spillway.

The pool is lined with tiles or cement mortar (1: 2), followed by ironing, the embankment with concrete slabs, and the slope is covered with turf. A removable metal staircase with handrails should also be built. A ladder is installed on four nozzles, two of which are embedded in the bottom, and the other two are embedded in the embankment, the handrails are attached to the nozzles with studs.

Before the start of operation, the pool is filled with water for a day, and the water is changed two or three more times to remove the unpleasant odor that freshly laid concrete emits.

In the middle of a larger pool, you can make a jacuzzi by connecting a pump and heating to the tub (fig. 27).

Rice. 27. Jacuzzi connection diagram

Decorative pools are not intended for swimming. These are garden and park elements that give solemnity and elegance to the park landscape, as well as creating the effect of reflecting structures, monuments, crown shapes of ornamental trees and shrubs. The dimensions of the pools are determined by their location. For optimal visual perception, they should not exceed 1/5–1/6 of the surrounding area.

The shape of the pools is different (from round, oval, rectangular to free, natural, smooth outlines), the area is from 10 to 50 m 2 and more.

The main building materials are monolithic and precast concrete; stones, ceramic and concrete vases, sculpture, bridges, passages are used for decoration (Fig. 28).

Rice. 28. The device of a decorative pool with a cascade and aquatic plants

The bottom of the pool is decorated with ceramic tiles of different colors or processed with mosaics with illumination in the evening. Pools don't have to be particularly frilly; they are decorated with a low concrete or stone ledge (at the level of the lawn and the platform), and the areas around them are tiled paving and flower vases of simple shapes.

Plants with a clear silhouette of branches, leaves and flowers are arranged near decorative pools. These are shrubs (junipers, arborvitae, Thunberg's barberry, etc.), perennial flower plants (irises, bergenia, funkia, daylily, bluebell, delphinium, aquilegia, astilba, etc.). Low decorative pools are decorated along the edge with flowering mixborders, plantings of perennial flower plants or low coniferous and deciduous shrubs (Fig. 29).

Rice. 29. decorative pool

To grow aquatic plants, a recess is made in the bottom of the pool, where a metal basket or concrete bowl is placed, which is removed for inspection and winter storage of plants. You can also use stones at the bottom with a small layer of greasy soil between them.

Waterfall. A waterfall is a special hydraulic structure, which is a stream of water falling from a height of several meters (Fig. 30). An indispensable condition for the shape of the waterfall is a large width in relation to the height of the jet. Only such a ratio can give the desired visual effect.

Rice. thirty. Waterfall

Waterfalls are arranged on sharp relief depressions, differences between two levels of the future channel, which is created by spillway dams, stone dams, with the obligatory condition of constant movement of water from the upper terrace to the lower one through the spillway.

Different requirements are imposed on the device of a waterfall with regular and landscape planning. The waterfall is the dominant element of the composition, subjugating the surrounding space.

When landscape planning, the waterfall should be natural and fit into the landscape. It is especially important to arrange the banks and the channel of the spillway, freely place stones or boulders, cut the banks picturesquely and place trees and shrubs, naturally bring paths with a dirt or sand and gravel top coating.

With regular planning, the waterfall is equipped with small architectural forms using good-quality processed materials: granite, marble, flagstone, tuff of different colors, etc.

Thresholds. These are artificial breakwaters of the channel of a moving stream of water. The rapids are arranged by a pile of large stones in the channel of the watercourse on the path of the main stream of water, which breaks against the barrier, bypasses it with noise and foam and rolls down the channel.

Cascades. They are smaller than waterfalls, and the water falls in cascades in steps along ledges created according to the principle of architectural and artistic composition.

Interstage upper platforms of the cascade can have a horizontal or inclined position, which reduces or increases the speed of water movement. Parallel to the cascade, stairs with viewing platforms are being built, on which decorative sculpture, ceramic park forms and flower modules with beautiful flowering plants are installed. The cascade is combined with other water devices - fountains, water cannons, etc.

Creating a cascade or rocky stream requires painstaking work. It is better to create a stream on the slope of a large rockery or on a natural slope, reinforced with stones. It is very important that the structure is not bulky and does not look artificial. So that the cascade does not look unfinished, natural stones treated with water are used. The walls of the pools are coated with clay, the bottom is covered with pebbles to hide all traces of their artificial origin. Plants of the coastal zone are planted along the banks: Siberian and Japanese irises, cereals, primroses, calts, ferns. Carpet views descending to the water, real mosses look beautiful.

channels open artificial conduits are called, serving certain sports purposes or connecting reservoirs over the shortest distance. This assignment of channels determines their clear geometric shape, which enriches the landscape with a linear perspective.

The depth of the channels is 2–4 m; the width depends on the width of the lanes established by the rules for competitions in rowing, water skiing and water-motor sports. The width of the water-carrying channels is set based on the volume of water moved per unit of time.

The banks of the canals are fixed with piles (banquet rows), the slopes are strengthened with turf, and the embankment is equipped.

Streams or channels- These are open artificial conduits that serve as a connecting link between reservoirs.

The channels are different in width depending on the turns, branches in the form of sleeves, backwaters, islands and rapids. The bottom and the flooded part of the shore must have a natural or artificial waterproof layer with sand and gravel surcharge.

Due to the weak flow of water, the banks of the channel are fixed in the flooded part with masonry or loose, in the non-flooded part - with grass clothes, low shrubs and perennial flowers, as a result of which they are a favorite place for waterfowl.

ditches- these are small artificial open conduits that serve for temporary or permanent discharge of water and, with the appropriate design of the walls, are a decorative element.

For the design of channels, flagstone, cobblestone, brick, wooden antiseptic grating, wattle structures are used. Plants are planted along the slopes: daffodils, ferns, hemerocallis, etc. Paths are made along the decorative ditches, which give the landscape a natural look and make them easier to see.

"Swamp"- a kind of rocky garden created in a waterlogged area. In swampy areas, it is enough to dig up the soil to a shallow depth; in drier areas, an artificial reservoir is necessary.

Soil is poured on the edges of the reservoir, giving them the shape of low hills. Granite boulders rounded by a glacier are dug into the shore around. The stones must be of different sizes. They are placed singly or in small groups, and they are dug in almost 3/4 of their height. Boulders should be "drowned" in the ground, as if protruding from the banks and supporting them. Wood snags found in a natural swamp or pond look interesting in the “bog”. Since the "bog" is characteristic of moist soil, it is possible to lay bridges or a path from wood saw cuts to it.

The “quagmire” is planted with swamp plants of the local flora: calla (bog calla), three-leaf watch, and cereals. For planting on the shores, only moisture-tolerant plants are also used, and more dry-loving plants are planted between stones on hilly shores. In the composition, located in the shade, forest plants are appropriate: dwarf varieties of spruce and arborvitae, heather (including rhododendrons), ferns.

Industrial and fire fighting reservoirs- technical structures used in arid and hot climates for irrigating plants and creating comfortable conditions for the rest of visitors to a landscape gardening facility. Water bodies of this type include ditches with sprinklers and water curtains that enclose recreational areas, decorative water bodies with numerous fountain jets and illumination in the evening.

To decorate natural and artificial reservoirs, as well as to improve the composition of water, aquatic plants are used, which, depending on the growing conditions, are:

Floating (yellow water lily, white water rose, fragrant water rose, water nut, etc.);

Shallow-water (calamus marsh, calla, golden iris, bitter shamrock, sultan, etc.);

Coastal (forget-me-nots, canary grass, common reed, primrose, etc.).

In artificial reservoirs, aquatic plants are grown in containers lowered to the bottom in specially designated areas.

To do this, the containers are filled with a mixture of leafy earth, clay and medium-grained sand (in equal proportions).

All water devices require systematic care: daily in the summer and periodically in the spring-winter-autumn period.

Debris must be immediately removed from the surface of the water.

It is necessary to monitor the condition of the banks, the body of dams, cascades, fountains, etc., to repair faulty structures immediately.

Reservoirs should be cleaned in a timely manner to avoid overgrowing the water surface with aquatic vegetation, which is regularly removed with a rake and transported to the shore in boats, and then composted in pits.

Overhaul consists in cleaning the bottom and the underwater part of the reservoir from the overgrown silt, which appears due to the ingress of the sheet and the smallest solid dust-like particles.

Cleaning of reservoirs is best done in autumn-winter and early spring, when the flow of visitors is sharply reduced. To do this, late in the fall, after the installation of permanent ice, water is pumped out. The ice is lowered to the ground and with the help of a backhoe excavator (downhole), together with the sludge, is transported by dump trucks to the places of storage and subsequent use.

In shallow reservoirs with water discharge devices, the bottom is cleaned after 2–3 years. Simultaneously with the cleaning of reservoirs with the onset of constant heat, all disturbed coastal areas are being repaired: lawns, paths and playgrounds.

In spring and summer, it is necessary to monitor the installation of stones on the rapids: in case of violation of the composition, the stones are corrected.

It is necessary to carefully monitor the water exchange regime in the pools: recycle water if there are devices for cleaning and disinfecting it, or change the entire volume of water daily. Flowing water exchange should be 25–30% of the hourly water consumption per shift.

The lighting of decorative pools and fountains should be the subject of close attention, as it also participates in the evening lighting of the surrounding area.

It is enough to break one or two lamps or spotlights so that not only the intended effect of evening lighting disappears, but also part of the territory disappears in the dark.

Aquatic plants also require care. Aquatic plants are pruned and partially removed to avoid overgrowth, self-oppression and death.

Plants are thinned out 2-3 times a year with the removal of rhizomes.

In winter, reservoirs and pools are protected from complete freezing, for which they make ice holes with pumping out excess water through them and their subsequent warming.

Small decorative reservoirs with vegetation are completely covered for the winter with insulating materials: peat, dry leaf. In the spring, with the onset of the first days with a positive temperature, the heaters are removed.

If the reservoir is large enough, a measure to combat aquatic vegetation can be the maintenance of herbivorous fish in the reservoirs.

Fountains are called artificial devices for knocking out jets of water from a special hole. Streams of water pour and fall at different heights, at different inclinations, and splash in different ways. A jet, column, streams or individual drops of water create countless fountain options (Fig. 31). The maximum height of the water jets should not exceed half the diameter of the fountain bowl, since with a higher jet height and strong winds, water enters the surrounding area, which prevents visitors from accessing the fountain. The water flow in the fountains of a landscape gardening facility should not exceed 50–60 l/s. Water supply of fountains can be carried out:

From a city water supply or local source using a pump, and sometimes by gravity;

From the reservoir in which the fountain is arranged, using a pump.

Rice. 31. Fountain types

Discharge of water is organized into an open tray, a storm sewer network, or a reverse water supply or water recirculation is created.

To free the fountain bowl from water for the winter period, its bottom is made with a slope towards the outlet.

There are fountains of various shapes. For their design, colored asphalt and concrete, ceramic tiles, and chasing are used.

Parks often have wall fountains with several catchment bowls.

Fountains are also arranged without catchment bowls, where the water looks like a curtain or a thin film. Such structures consist of a metal plate or concrete slab on a support with a pipe through which water rises.

Water very weakly gushes over the surface of the slab or plate, covers it with a thin film and, flowing down along the perimeter, forms a water curtain, after which it goes into the draining layer of pebbles.

One of the interesting forms is a fountain without a bowl, which is created directly on the lawn and consists of individual jets with special lighting.

Springs, keys and springs. Sources, or springs, are the simplest fountain structures arranged on the site of natural springs and used both as decorative elements and for household purposes (a means of water supply to the territory).

A spring is a low bowl - a frame or a stone structure without a bottom, from which spring water pours or flows into.

In the second case, a retaining stone or decorative wall is built with a spillway pipe built into it from the source.

drinking fountains. Small devices in the form of miniature fountains of various designs serve to decorate and quench thirst.

They consist of a foundation, a water supply system with a drain tap and a fountain device, a pedestal with a drain bowl and a sewer outlet system. Cabinet height – 65–90 cm.

Sprinkler installations. Gushing, or sprinkling, installations on lawns and flower beds are sprinklers - structures with blades and holes for supplying and spraying water. Installations on the fitting of watering taps or hoses or bladed turntables are used. Under the influence of water pressure, they begin to move, evenly supplying water around them by 1.5–2.5 m.

Such installations create a halo of light and the smallest fog, which allows you to admire the rainbow every day. The easiest way to arrange such an installation is to punch small holes in a plastic pipe, lay it on the ground with the holes up and bring water. The height of the spray is regulated by the pressure of the water. Such devices are installed on a permanent water supply network or fixed on a watering hose fitting and, as the plantings are irrigated, they are transferred to another place with overlapping of the irrigation area.