Chain link fence design. Chain-link fence: types for different soils and purposes, how to make and install. Do-it-yourself chain-link fence - video

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence is very relevant for summer cottages, since serious metal or any other monolithic fences between areas are simply prohibited. Chain-link is an excellent, inexpensive, accessible to all material, widely used for the construction of fences or fences for summer cottages. The cellular structure of the mesh does not obscure areas with plants (like slate or siding), freely passes air flows, the sun's rays. In addition, this material is successfully used for blocking areas of reservoirs, poultry houses, animal habitats, technical areas.

Chain-link fence, photo

Before you make a fence from a chain-link mesh, you need to take into account all the nuances, and especially the size of the cells. For example, if you or your neighbors keep chickens in the country, then the size of the cell should be minimal (so that the living creatures do not penetrate into someone else's plot). For the usual division of the territory, a lattice with cells of any size is suitable.

Types of chain-link mesh

Today on the market building materials Three types of mesh are available and successfully used.

The difference is in the material from which it is made:

1. Non-galvanized, non-painted mesh made of ferrous metal. Such a chain-link does not have a long service life, after a few days it begins to rust. It is used as a temporary material before the installation of more serious fences, however, coating with paint significantly extends its life.
2. The galvanized chain-link is not subject to rusting, it is the most common building material in cases where the presence of just such fencing nets is required.
3. Mesh chain-link plastic for a fence (with polymer coated). it steel mesh coated with a layer of polyvinyl chloride. It has a modern aesthetic appearance, it is not afraid of moisture, corrosive processes. Such a grating is plastic, does not burst when deformed, and is great for installation in areas with high level acids or alkalis in the soil. An additional plus is the fact that the plasticized chain-link is available in different colors.

Braided climbing plants and the colors of the chain-link mesh look very aesthetically pleasing, and if it is green (plastic coating), then it is doubly attractive.

Installing a chain-link fence, how best

Do-it-yourself chain-link fences can be erected in two ways:

• by stretching the mesh between the support posts,
• installation of sections (in the second case, you will need welding machine).

Support posts are metal (for example, pipes), concrete or wood. For a more solid sectional fence, you will need metal corners for making a frame. Such a fence will look more aesthetically pleasing, but at a price it will come out much more expensive. Stretch option simpler, but also quite practical. In any case, you must make the choice.

The place of the future fence is marked with pegs, between which the twine is stretched. The length of the rope should be equal to the length of the net, but for reliability it is better to stock up large quantity meters. The peg installation sites are a basting where the posts for the fence from the chain-link mesh will stand, so it is better if the distance between them does not exceed one and a half to two meters. This material (mesh) tends to sag, so you should not make too large distances between the uprights.

The depth of the holes for the supports is usually a meter and a half, and the corner posts are installed first of all (there is always more pressure on them). To strengthen the corner posts, a sand-gravel mixture is additionally poured into the bottom of the pit, compacted, and poured with a cement solution.

Until the mixture completely hardens, the pillar should not be touched. It is also appropriate to use a plumb line or level for these purposes. Options for strengthening the supports depend on the preferences of the developer, on the purpose of the fence.

Photo of a chain-link fence:

After curing concrete mix the line of hooks follows, for which the chain-link will be hooked. Usually nails or wire are used for these purposes. large diameter, which are then welded to the supports using a welding machine.

It should be borne in mind that now there are ready-made painted poles on sale that have hooks. Before mesh tension metal supports painted with paint, and wooden ones are treated with special protective equipment(along the entire length). After that, the chain-link is stretched and put on hooks in cells. For more reliable fastening some summer residents additionally wrap a support with wire mesh.

In order for the installation of a chain-link fence to be as reliable as possible, it is recommended to use a reinforcing technique. Additionally, a vertical supporting rod is installed. To do this, a rod or a reliable thick wire is threaded from above into the first or second row of cells, which is also welded to the poles (or attached to a wooden support). This technique does not allow the mesh to sag over time and strengthens the entire structure as a whole. Make sure the tension is tight. The subsequent process is similar for the rest of the supports.

There is another, fairly common mounting option - a chain-link fence on sleds (wooden veins). The installation difference lies in the fact that the grid is fixed not on the pole itself, but on wooden board(vein) attached to this support. Sleg attached to the top and bottom of the main support.

When the fence is installed, do not be too lazy to take pliers, bend all the upper hooks of the chain-link down - so you will be sure that no one is accidentally injured.

It happens that the fenced area has an uneven landscape, in these cases the so-called terracing is performed. It is done in a similar way: the support post is installed at the site of the soil drop. On the one hand, the grid is fixed at a certain level, and on the other (the next piece of the grid) is already higher or lower - according to the height of the drop. In this case, the chain-link mesh for the fence is cut into fragments.

But there is another option for installing a fence, which is optimal for uneven ground - sections.

Sectional chain link fence

These sections are welded metal frames, which are made from corners. Inside such a frame there is a chain-link, and he himself is welded to the support post. On the initial stage installation, marking with pegs is still used, only the poles are already more powerful, since an increased load is placed on them. If you decide to make a durable sectional fence from a chain-link mesh, then pouring strip foundation will not be superfluous, but without it, such a design will also last a long time.

The dimensions of the frame are determined individually, the distance between the supports is 15-20 cm less. In turn, the width of the frame should also be less than the length of the column by about 15-20 cm. The mesh roll is cut into sections of the required sizes using a grinder saw. AT upper part fragment, a metal rod is threaded through. It is welded to the top of the frame. Using the same method, the remaining sides of the grid are attached to the frame.

The next step is to attach the supporting metal strips (about 5 cm wide and 30 cm long) to the support (they are also welded). After that, the section is placed between the posts and welded directly to these strips. At the final stage, the sectional fence made of mesh netting is painted with paint.

Installing a tension fence will not require special skills from you, it will not take much time, while sectional structure it is preferable to install with an assistant, and preferably with two.

This type of fence will serve you for many years, if some section of the fence is damaged during operation, then it is easy to fix it. Despite its "airiness", a chain-link fence is a serious obstacle to uninvited guests — tensile structure is flexible, it will be very difficult to stay on it. And, if you install it, then this is the most economical and fast option for country fence, and with an individual approach, very aesthetic and attractive.

Chain-link fence - quick to arrange and inexpensive solution, ideal for fencing summer cottages, technical zones, reservoirs, agricultural territory or sports grounds. Such a fence is universal, reliable and durable, and how to make it will be discussed in this article.

We will give advice on the choice of materials and provide step by step instructions for the installation of the fence with your own hands - from installing poles to stretching between the mesh supports.

1 Which grid to choose?

A chain-link fence will cost you much less than installing an all-metal, brick or wooden fence. The reason for this is relatively small price the mesh itself, as well as the absence of the need to install a serious foundation - the fence from the chain-link mesh has no windage, so even the minimum amount can withstand it support pillars.

Read also: about the application and its benefits.

There are three types of chain-link on the construction market, differing from each other in the material of manufacture:

In addition to the material of manufacture, the mesh is divided into varieties according to the size and shape of the cells. There are modifications with diamond-shaped and rectangular cells, but their shape does not play any role in practice. More important is their size, which varies from 25 to 60 mm. The smaller the cells, the stronger and more expensive the material.

Here it is necessary to look at the functional purpose of the fence. If you are making a fence from a chain-link mesh to enclose an area with poultry, then a product with large cells will not work - chickens can crawl between the cells. Generally, optimal size for any fences are cells of 30-40 mm.

1.1 What are the pillars made of?

The supporting posts of the fence should be located at a distance of 2-3 meters from each other. Supports can be made using three different materials:

• steel profile pipes;
• polymer plumbing pipes;
• wooden poles.

In practice, installation wooden poles rarely performed, as they are heavy, difficult to work with, and the durability of wood, prone to rotting due to moisture, leaves much to be desired. The best option is a device of pillars from steel profile rectangular shape.

The advantage of a profile of this section is increased strength due to the presence of stiffeners. The profile, depending on the wall thickness, is classified into three varieties - thick-walled (from 1.5 to 3 mm), standard (3-4 mm) and thick-walled (up to 8 mm).

It is best to do the installation of the fence with your own hands using profile with a wall thickness of 4 mm and a section of 6 × 6 cm(price from $4 per running meter). The transverse fence belts, which are necessary for additional fixation of the mesh, can be made from a thinner profile of 3 × 3 cm or reinforcement with a diameter of 11-16 mm - it will turn out inexpensively and reliably.

2 Fence installation technology

A chain-link fence can be made in two versions - tension and sectional. In the feather case, it is enough to simply install the support posts with your own hands and pull the chain-link between them, fixing it on the supports with a thickness of 3 mm.

To make a sectional fence, you will need to perform a significant amount of welding work, which requires the appropriate equipment. Such a fence consists of rectangular sections welded from a profile about 3 * 2 m in size, fixed between the supporting pillars. The advantage of this option is a more aesthetic appearance and increased strength.

There is also a simpler modification of the sectional fence. Its installation involves the installation of support pillars and welding on them of two horizontal reinforcement belts, which are used as the upper and lower parts of the section instead of the profile. The cost of reinforcement is lower, which contributes to significant cost savings, but it performs all the same functions - it gives the fence greater spatial rigidity.

2.1 Chain-link fence - step by step instructions

Before installing the fence, you need to do the marking of the site with your own hands. Initially, it is necessary to mark the mounting points of the supporting pillars, the distance between which should not exceed 2.5 meters, since the mesh can sag under its own weight.

You can find out the required number of supports by dividing the fenced perimeter of the site by 2.5. If the length does not allow the use of a uniform pitch, then you need to install most of the posts at the required distance, and place the last support closer to the adjacent post.

The marking is easy to do with your own hands - we install the extreme reinforcing pegs, stretch the twine between them and make marks with stakes at a given distance.

When all the pillars are mounted, it remains to stretch the grid between them. After concreting, 2-3 days should pass, which are necessary for the foundation to gain strength.

The installation of the mesh can be carried out on steel hooks pre-welded onto the poles or by fixing it on the supports with a knitting wire. If you are using a black wire netting, its lower contour must be started at a height of 10 cm from the ground. Galvanized or mesh can be stretched from the ground or sunk into the ground.

It is necessary to mount the grid from the corner post. To do this, unwind the roll with your own hands and install it near the support, fasten the extreme contour of the chain-link on the hooks previously welded on the pole, unwind the roll for one span and thread a vertical reinforcement bar at the cut point, with which you can evenly stretch the mesh. After stretching the material, fix it on the hooks of the support post. Similarly, the grid is mounted on all subsequent supports.

After it was possible to stretch and fix the mesh on the first span, it is necessary to make two horizontal belts of reinforcement (upper and lower), which will perform a supporting function, preventing the mesh from sagging during operation. The reinforcement is pulled inside the cells of the chain-link at a distance of 10-20 cm from its extreme contours and welded to the supporting pillars.

If you need to make a corner fence with your own hands, then at the corners the chain-link must be separated and joined two separate parts, and not bypass the corner with a solid canvas. Upon completion of the installation of the fence, it remains only to bend the hooks fixing the mesh.

A strong and reliable fence of the site does not have to be made of stone and concrete. A chain link fence is a smart alternative to expensive designs. This simple, light and at the same time reliable material makes it possible to perfectly realize the idea of reliable protection area from uninvited guests.

Fencing with decorative elements

Well, if the cost of fencing and work is really affordable, then why not order such a fence for a turnkey site? Or you can even take a chance and put up the fence yourself. Let's examine both options in detail.

Installing a chain-link fence has several undeniable advantages that clearly show that the idea of ​​​​arranging just such a fence deserves attention.

The economic aspects of construction are related to how much the material costs and what is the price with the installation of such a project:

• installing a mesh fence will cost much less than;
• the service life of such a structure is at least 2 times longer than that of a wooden one;
• the material for the main web, racks and accessories for stretching is quite cheap;
• the opportunity to save on installation costs - assembling a chain-link fence with your own hands is much easier than others.

On the technical side, this design allows:

• install a fence of almost any length;
• when working with ready-made delivery kits, for example, from those sold in Leroy, build them without welding and using additional tools;
• the material allows you to install both relatively light options, and with a rigid frame - a fence in sections from a metal corner or profile;
• the material is great for the perimeters of plots of any shape;
• installation does not require a large amount of work associated with the foundation. The weight of the canvas allows you to install it on poles from a profile pipe 50x50 mm without supports;
• the material is not afraid of temperature changes, sunlight, able to withstand a large mechanical impact;
• PVC-coated canvas does not require painting and additional care;
• material for construction is easy to calculate and transport. It is sold in rolls of 10 meters, the connection is made by interlacing two segments into one common canvas;
• a wide range of sizes. The height of the material can be standard: 1.5; 1.8; 2.0; 2.5; 3.0 meters.

The photo shows an easily mounted fence.

Such a fence does not obscure the neighbors' plot.

Issues related to the placement of the fence include:

• the possibility of its placement both for a city site and for a summer residence. High light transmission allows you to build a fence between neighbors. At the same time, on neighboring plots there will be no shaded area, which corresponds to . But do not forget about.
• building on screw piles won't hurt root system trees and shrubs. Therefore, it can also be placed in places where a garden is already growing, although this also has its own.

Beautiful decor fences

with guides

Installation of a chain-link fence with guides involves the construction of a rigid frame in the form of horizontal guides. The following are used as guides:

• profile pipe with a profile from 20x20 to 40x20 mm;
• metal rod;
• fittings;
• wooden bars.

Without guides

One of the methods of how to stretch the mesh on the fence is the option of building hedges without guides. Used as tensioner steel rope or wire threaded through rigidly fixed supports. The extreme corner supports are well reinforced with stops. The wire or cable is pulled through the cells at the top and bottom of the canvas at a distance of 5-10 cm from the edge.

The tension is done using bolts with holes in the head or lanyards.

Sectional option

sectional fence

Sectional mesh fence, mounted on supports with the help, differs in that it is difficult to dismantle it. It is much easier and easier to use the installation of sections with bolts.

Pole installation

The manufacture of a fence is associated, first of all, with the correct marking of the site and the installation of supporting pillars. from the grid are selected depending on the construction budget. For this are used:

• metal profile pipe;
• water pipe;
• metallic profile;
• corner;
• brick pillars;
• asbestos-cement pipes;
• wooden poles.

Most cheap option These are wooden poles. Asbestos-cement pipes and concrete pillars. In more detail, they will help you choose a fence. Photos of fences using supports made of different material.

Preparatory stage

The construction of the fence begins with marking the perimeter of the site and breaking it into straight segments. Separately, a segment is marked where they will be installed entrance gate and a gate. Under it is better to provide powerful supports from a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm or a profile pipe 100x100 mm.

Calculate the dimensions of the spans under the sections with high precision, the distance between the fence posts without guides can be from 1.5 to 2.5 meters.

Pillar installation

Under each pillar comes off a foundation pit. Under the main pillars - angular, rotary and on which the gates are attached, the foundation pit comes off taking into account. Intermediate posts can have a pit diameter of 200-230 mm, such as the diameter of a garden auger auger.
The depth of the pit depends on the height of the building: with a height of up to 2.5 meters, a meter is enough, for a greater height of the supports, a depth of 1.5 meters is taken.

Structure mounting scheme

Construction begins with the installation of the main pillars. After the concrete of these supports hardens, the installation of intermediate pillars is carried out. For corner supports made of square pipe 50x50 mm, reinforcement is provided in the form of an inclined thrust beam.

Step-by-step installation of the grid

You can install a fence from a regular chain-link mesh with your own hands without guides without special equipment, especially if you use ready-made elements for installation and tension. For quick installation it is recommended to buy all fasteners in advance.

On guides

Chain-link fences along the guides are mounted in two stages:

1. Guides are mounted.
2. A polymer mesh is being installed.

First, we install guides on the pillars. Preliminary fixation is carried out with a mounting wire, then the guides are welded by electric welding.

Then, with the help of plastic clamps, the canvas gradually rises and is fixed on the fence. The final tension and fixation with wire or metal strip is done after and fastened by electric welding. plastic mesh on the guides is fixed only with wire or special clamps.

From a grid are widely used at a protection of seasonal dachas. Anyone can install a chain-link fence with a minimum of tools at hand. Subject to the installation technology and selection quality materials, such a fence will last 15-20 years. Before starting work, you need to study the types and characteristics of the grid, as well as study the instructions in detail in order to avoid mistakes.

The mesh is made of black and galvanized wire, so the quality of the chain-link varies. Black wire mesh is the cheapest and most short-lived. It becomes covered with rust after the first fog or rain, and after 3-4 years it becomes completely unusable. You can extend the life of a non-galvanized chain-link with paint or liquid rubber, which should be applied to the grid before it is installed, and then periodically update the protective layer.

Galvanized wire mesh is not afraid of corrosion, and therefore lasts longer. It costs a little more than black, but does not need it at all. protective treatment. from a galvanized chain-link look neat and attractive.

The plasticized chain-link is becoming more and more popular. This metal grid covered with a dense layer of anti-corrosion polymer, due to which it has increased resistance to weathering. In addition, the polymer is colored, the mesh looks very attractive and aesthetically pleasing. And although such a chain-link is quite expensive, the demand for it is constantly growing.

In addition to quality, the chain-link mesh differs in mesh size, wire thickness and roll height. Cells can have dimensions from 10 to 65 mm, wire diameter 1-5 mm. The height of the roll is from 0.8 to 2 m, but the most popular is 1.5 m. Standard length mesh in a roll is 10 m, rolls of 20 m are made to order. The smaller the cells, the more expensive the mesh, because this increases material consumption.

Netting prices

Rabitz

Types of mesh fences

The protection from a chain-link grid happens sectional and tension. The first option involves the manufacture of rectangular metal sections, inside which the mesh is fixed. For sections use metal corners, profile and round pipes small diameter. Connect them by welding or bolts, if not. Such a fence looks more aesthetically pleasing and attractive, metal carcass does not allow the mesh to sag.

The tension fence is faster and easier to install; its design consists only of supporting pillars and the grid itself. The mesh is fastened with steel wire, clamps or hung on hooks welded to the posts. Pipes are suitable for poles different diameter, concrete columns, wooden bar.

Installation of fence posts

For both sectional and tension fence marking, preparation and installation of poles is carried out using the same technology, only in the first case the poles should be stronger. This is due to the additional load from the metal sections; if the supports are too thin, the fence will definitely warp.

For work you will need:

• roulette;
• wooden pegs;
• a skein of thin rope;
• building level;
• manual drill;
• crushed stone and sand;
• solution;
• profile pipes 60x40 mm;
• Bulgarian;
• primer.

Step 1. Installing the corner posts

The area allotted for the site is cleared of vegetation, if necessary, leveled, the location of the extreme pillars is determined. Experienced Builders it is recommended to make corner posts from pipes of a larger section than intermediate ones, and dig them deeper. For example, if a 40x40 mm profile pipe is taken for intermediate supports, then for corner supports it is better to take 60x40 mm and 15-20 cm longer.

Proceed to the installation of pillars:

When the solution hardens a little, you can remove the spacers and start marking under the intermediate racks.

Step 2. Markup

A rope is pulled tightly between the corner supports at a height of 15 cm from the ground - this will be the fence line. The line must be divided into equal segments corresponding to the width of the span. Optimal Width span for a fence from a chain-link is 2-2.5 m; if you increase it, the grid will definitely sag. They retreat from the extreme pillar to the desired distance and drive a peg into the ground, and so on to the opposite corner. All pegs must be in contact with taut rope and be equidistant from each other.

Video - A new way to install support poles

Step 3. Installing intermediate supports

In place of the pegs, holes are drilled for the posts and the bottom is covered with sand. To make it more convenient to control the height of the supports, another rope is pulled along the upper edge of the corner posts. Now the pipes are inserted into the pits, leveled in height and vertical, sprinkled with crushed stone and soil and tightly tamped with crowbar. Concrete is poured from above and the surface is leveled.

If it is planned to install a tension fence, and the soil on the site is quite dense, intermediate supports you can just hammer into the ground and not concrete. To do this, holes are drilled to half the required depth, pipes are inserted there and hammered with a sledgehammer. To protect the upper edge of the columns from deformation, take a piece of pipe bigger size, a steel plate is welded on one side and put on top of the column. After driving the supports, the pits are covered with gravel and sand, spilled with water for better compaction and well rammed.

Step 4. Welding hooks

After about a week, when the concrete has hardened sufficiently, installation can continue. You can fix the grid on the poles with wire or clamps, but it is more convenient to hook it on hooks. Profile pipes with hooks already welded are on sale, but if you have a welding machine, it is cheaper to make them yourself. For this, pieces of a steel bar, screws, nails, even thick wire are suitable - everything that can be welded to the pipe and bent. On a pole 2 m high, it is enough to make 3 hooks: at a distance of 15 cm from the ground, 10 cm from the top of the pipe and in the middle.

Video - Do-it-yourself chain-link fence

Step 1 Attaching the Mesh

A chain-link roll is placed near the corner post, unwound a little and the cells are put on hooks. To securely fix the edge of the mesh, you need to take a piece of reinforcement with a cross section of 8 mm and a length of 1.5 m and thread it into the cells of the first row. After that, the fittings are attached to the pipe and welded. Now, when the roll is tensioned, the mesh will not sag. Having fixed the end of the mesh, the roll is transferred to the next support, carefully unwinding it.

Stepping back from the junction of the chain-link with a pipe of 10-15 cm, a steel bar is again threaded into the cells. This time you do not need to weld it, it will just help to evenly stretch the mesh. When the mesh is put on hooks, the rod is taken out, the roll is unwound for another span, the reinforcement is inserted again, and so on until the very end of the fence. To connect two canvases, use a wire from the extreme vertical row of one of the rolls.

Step 2. Fixing the canvas from sagging

Even a well-stretched canvas sags a little over time, so at the installation stage, you need to take care of additional fixation of the chain-link between the posts. You will need a wire with a cross section of 6 mm and a welding machine. The wire is threaded into the second or third row of cells horizontally along the entire fence. In places where the grid fits to the posts, the wire is welded. Then, in the same way, the lower edge of the mesh is strengthened, and at the end, the hooks are bent. Now the fence canvas is securely fixed on the supports and will not bend or sag.

Step 3. The final stage

When the fence is installed, you need to complete the finishing touches:

• put plastic plugs on top of the pipes;
• paint the posts
• twist the upper antennae of the chain-link in pairs by 2 turns and bend down.

At this point, the installation of the tension fence is considered completed.

Video - Connecting the chain-link in one roll

Installation of a sectional fence

Step 2: Preparing the Racks

Rectangular plates 20x5 cm and 4-5 mm thick are cut from sheet steel. They take one plate, apply it perpendicular to the pole at a height of 20 cm from the ground and weld it. The second plate is welded at the top, stepping back from the edge of 15-20 cm. In the same way, the plates are attached to the remaining supports.

Step 3 Mounting sections

The first section is placed between the pillars, lifted and leveled. Then the sides are welded to the plates and proceed to the next span. It is very important to correctly align the sections in height so that the top rails of the frame form a single line. After installing all the sections, they clean the welding spots, prime and paint the fence frame.

Read step-by-step instructions on how to do it in our new article.

Video - How to make a chain-link fence