How to make aged boards. How to artificially age a tree with your own hands - a master class with photos and videos. Aging with wet paper

Actually, the aging of wood itself is a rather long process and depends on the conditions of initial processing, operating conditions and environment. Therefore, here I will describe several types imitations old wood and, accordingly, the furniture that is or is made from it.

Can be distinguished two directions of techniques and technologies artificial aging(aging) wood:

Mechanical impact for wood

Playing with color

Mechanical impact on wood

It can be subdivided into the following imitations, which by themselves do not provide credibility and are therefore used in conjunction with color solution:

* embossed texture of old wood (brushing);

* destructive impact tree pests (bark beetles, larvae…)

Hitting wood with a bag/sock/glove with nails

Drilling wormholes and "drawing" wormhole grooves with a 1-5 mm drill

* random mechanical damage during operation (when carrying furniture, fell, maybe something or hit the furniture ...)

* abrasion in places of frequent contact with clothes, shoes, hands, and other parts of the body (for example, like old worn-out wooden stairs)

* old and manual methods processing:

- "curve" cut

Uneven wood surface (you can remove the angle grinder with an abrasive nozzle inaccurately upper layer from the surface furniture board or any piece of wood)

tool marks

- carpenter's "mistakes" ...

Playing with color

Here are the simulations:

* valuable breeds wood (this does not apply to aging, but to the game of color - completely)

* wood color changes adverse conditions environment (darkening, withering of the texture of wood, wood pollution, "patina", blue, rot)

* aging of the paintwork surfaces themselves (for example, the formation of a network of cracks / crackle technique, craquelure / or imitation of paintwork wear)

* repainting (when old layers are visible through the "new" coating... there are many photos with it in the article)

* in itself, the use of natural oils and wax can emphasize the "antiquity" of aged furniture

And some more photos of painted wood that lives on the street:

An extreme method is the use of a torch. Required plots are set on fire to the desired condition and the extra "coals" are removed until desired effect. Naturally soft fibers burn deeper.

Chemical aging of wood

There are of course enthusiasts who poison the tree with active chemicals, such as alkali, ammonia and various acids (for example, oak is advised to poison with vitriol). Such treatment changes color and usually "eats" the soft fibers of the wood, and in hard rock reveals pores.

Usually applied as gels, soaked or steamed.

You can see more here:

Dyes and pigments in combination with varnishes, paints, oils and waxes can "age" wood, both by independent methods and by emphasizing mechanically "aged" wood. You can read about which oils polymerize in the article on wood stabilization.

Here is one of good examples artificial aging wood(photo 1200*900):

And another selection real examples artificial aging of wood:

Long ago I promised to tell how to age wood on a specific example. An example is this:

1. Creation base surface mechanical aging of wood:

Smoothing and grinding of sharp corners in places where the greatest use is likely

This technique is used in other places, all the same, our subconscious associates such places as very worn and old

Application of traces of machining

In my case, these are traces of an abrasive tool.

2. Sanding fine abrasive (180) of the entire surface

3. Application of the base coating. It can be a regular colorless or tinted lacquer for toning. Pictured is the top board.

This is done so that the tree does not dry out and creates an intermediate layer for "patina".

The tinted varnish is applied, and the excess is immediately wiped off with a dry cloth to reveal the texture of the wood, mechanical damage and leaving smears from the cloth.

4. More detailed mechanical aging wood:

Marking and drilling wormholes

Refinement and / or addition of major damage (abrasion, bumps, scratches)

Adding a network of small damage with a bag of nails, screws, nuts, balls and other metal "garbage"

5. Gentle grinding (400)

6. Application"patina". In quotation marks, because it is not a patina, but an imitation of old "age-old" dirt, which is similar to the patina that forms on metal

It is applied in the same way as tinted varnish, only more carefully. It should get into all the recesses and damage and leave picturesque stains. "Drawing" the darkened areas of the tree near the cluster of wormholes...

If at this stage the top layer of paintwork is sanded off, you get the same effect as in the second photo. The third photo is the same, but with toning.

7. Gentle grinding(400) and polishing of the patina on outside corners and places of frequent use (lower board in the photo in paragraph No. 3).

8. Application of tinted varnish. It is applied creatively so that uneven colors and strokes are visible.

Toned lacquer on the right, patina on the left.

9. Gentle grinding (400)

10. Conventional protective varnish with interlayer grinding. Can be blown out with a spray gun.

11. Application of diluted "patina". We rub into all the cracks. We wait until it dries and polish the surface along the tops so that the patina remains only in damages, recesses and inner corners.

In the second photo on the left is a finished board made of aged wood with a "patina", on the right without it.

Ready.

Whatever else I remember, I'll add. What do you remember - also add in the comments.

[comments/talk]

Learn how to age a tree with your own hands in a loft style at home with your own hands and you can use it anywhere in production: for a wooden kitchen, Provence furniture, tables, etc. It turns out a wonderful color that will decorate the decor of any home! Application in decoration modern wood is, perhaps, a win-win option.

This is an incredibly attractive, breathable, pleasant to the touch natural material. It favorably affects the formation of the microclimate in the home, has bactericidal properties, and is useful for human energy. Wood will look great in any room. ceiling beams, individual elements decor.

This wonderful material lends itself perfectly to the most different types processing: It can be left natural, dyed, aged, and more.

There is no specific, unambiguous answer to this question.

This procedure is carried out for various purposes, most often it is:

How to make a tree old: brushing

There are many different ways to process a tree to get the desired result. Brushing, or texturing, is one of the most widely used.

The word brush is of English origin and means a brush. From him came the name of the technique, which consists in using the mentioned object to remove soft pliable fibers of the material. Very similar processes occur as a result of natural aging, but they take this case enough a large number of time. This method is considered the closest to the natural natural changes that occur with the material.

With it, the wood acquires a distinct woody texture.

What tree can be aged: breeds

It is quite possible to give the surface of a wooden material an aged look with the help of brushing on your own, at home. The problem is that not every type of wood is suitable for such processing.

Maple, cherry, beech, pear, selected varieties exotic plants, are not amenable to this method of aging.

It is not suitable for products and surfaces made of MDF. What to do if not available suitable material? We'll have to use a different method, chemical. Wood coniferous trees best processed mechanically.

Brushing is a rather laborious procedure. The main tool for its implementation is an elastic and durable metal brush. Quick change appearance a tree with its help will not work, so you can speed up the process.

To do this, you need a grinder or a drill with a special brush made of hard wire.

It should be noted that the use of electromechanical tools for woodworking can be very unsafe. The fact is that quite strong vibrations occur during the event, which can cause separation and sharp flying away not only of wooden chips, but also of metal elements.

Therefore, it is important not only to know how to age a tree, but also to be able to do it safely, without risking your own health. All activities are carried out in a special protective suit, eyes must be covered with camouflage goggles or a face shield. The airways are closed with a special respirator.

Chemical treatment during aging

Is it possible to age a tree by hand without the use of special devices and tools? Coarse-grained sandpaper is required, with which the surface is cleaned. Ammonia (ammonia solution) is applied to the prepared material, from which the tree becomes noticeably darker.

Thanks to this treatment, the wood texture becomes more distinct, while the noble darkening gives the material a touch of exquisite antiquity.

Such processing can be superficial, fairly light in nature.. In this case, a non-coarse polymer brush is used. If the tree is subjected to deep processing, then even the annual rings of wood become noticeable.

The main thing is not to overdo it when doing this operation. Otherwise, the result of the effort expended will not be an elegant textured surface, but a loose, indefinite wood.

Regardless of the chosen processing method, after a rough initial cleaning, the wooden blank must be restored to its original aesthetics. Irregularities and burrs are carefully removed from the surface of the object, then it is removed with a special abrasive brush. Then the material is additionally lightened and glossed with fine sandpaper.

Aged wood effect: patina

Mechanical processing alone is not enough to obtain the desired effect of aged wood. What to do with the material next? You can cover the product with one of the types of varnish. The material looks very interesting after a special treatment - patination. It allows you to make the surface of the material even more embossed. Patina is a peculiar, unique gloss acquired by the material over time.

His own recreation requires considerable effort, and is carried out in several separate stages. What is the patination process?

This is the application of special stains and compositions to the treated surface. In each case, they are selected individually, in accordance with the desired shade and color of the product.

The compositions should be applied in such a way that they find themselves in the pores of the wood, which open during mechanical processing.

The essence of this method is to make the deep pores of the material appear contrasting and dark against the general background, which is lighter. To carry out this procedure yourself, you need to choose a paint that matches the color. She completely stains the prepared surface, and, without waiting for complete drying, remove part of the top layer with a cloth or sponge. Such wood looks noble and looks like an old one.

But patination is not the only way to get the same or similar result. It is absolutely wonderful to age products with the help of special enamels. This method will allow you to get a real work of art, outwardly not much different from genuine antiques.

A layer of enamel of a certain color is applied to the surface. When it dries, it will be the turn for the next staining. For secondary application, a composition of a different shade, and a more liquid consistency, will be required.

When the treated rock is completely dry, its surface is easily processed. sandpaper. AT separate places the initial layer appears, forming elegant scuffs.

Toning and varnishing

The patination process must be completed with tinting. To carry it out, you will need special formulations that contain resins and natural ones. As finishing use a coating of treated wood with a double or triple layer of varnish. After drying, the surface is treated with a soft cloth to give a special shine.

Such varnishing fixes all previous manipulations, gives the product a finished, finished look.

And although the process is quite complicated and time-consuming, anyone can master the art of working with wood.

The main thing here is to carefully study the technology, understand the sequence of stages, and strictly follow the instructions.

Secrets of high-quality brushing: how to age a tree

How to correctly carry out the brushing process so that the result is pleasing to the eye? You need to know some of the nuances of the process.

Aged wood: use in the interior

Wood treated in a special way can not be found in every dwelling. The fact is that it is not enough just to age the wood.

The ability to correctly use it for interior design is of great importance. But the use of the described method of brushing allows you to make completely unique products, in fact exclusive.

These can be individual pieces of furniture, or entire sets and sets.

Chests of drawers made of such material, candlesticks, bookshelves, antique cupboards, frames for mirrors and pictures, country furniture and kitchen sets. This method of processing wood is great for the manufacture of individual doors and partitions.

The method of wood brushing is excellent for giving special effect to sexual and parquet board. Often, such material is used for the author's decoration of the walls of saunas or home baths, billiard rooms, retro cafes, bars and non-standard rooms.

is a long and painstaking process, consisting of mechanical processing of wood and work with paintwork materials. This finishing method is associated with Leon42, a participant in the forum "House and Dacha", with naturalness, antiquity, folk culture.

According to Leon42, buy furniture and brush it with a metal brush - this is not yet aging it, but simply scratching or, at best, making a textured surface. Furniture bought in a store - made of lamellas and "skinny" - is not suitable for texturing, it looks rather sad and flawed.

leon42 believes brushed furniture should be rough and solid, able to capture the natural beauty of wood.

It is the superficial approach to the aging of wood, according to the forum member, that forms the opinion of many people about products processed using this technology as “furniture of fire victims”. Meanwhile, the combination of aged wood with metal, stone or ceramics in the interior is always a fashionable and stylish technique that allows all the inhabitants of the house to touch eternity and feel like in the Middle Ages.

AT vivo wind and moisture, sun and temperature changes “work” on the aging of a tree. How to do what has been happening for many decades, in a few days?

Material preparation

For brushing, it is better to use soft and medium hard wood with a pronounced texture, such as spruce, pine or larch. In these wood species, soft fibers are formed, as a rule, in the spring-summer period, when there is an intensive growth of annual rings, and they are more “loose”.

Wood with a uniform and unexpressed texture like beech and maple is not suitable for aging.

Before working with wood, prepare its surface. Eliminate all defects and dirt, whether traces of sweat, grease or other stains that may appear during the application of the tinting composition. Any products (small architectural forms, furniture, etc.) process, having previously disassembled: you will spend less time and can get it everywhere with a brush.

brushing

Brushing (English brush - “brush”), or texturing a tree is giving it a relief characteristic of old wood. On the initial stage soft fibers are removed from solid wood. There are several processing options: light aging - a barely noticeable roughness is created on the surface, or deep and rough, when the depth of the roughness reaches 2-3 mm (for decorative elements, sometimes for rough furniture).

You can pre-treat any part, say, a ceiling beam, with an ax: make notches, trim the edges without fear of spoiling - no one but you knows what the result should be. In this case, you will receive a product with a deep microrelief of the surface and irregularities on it up to 20 mm deep.

Do not forget about the "traces" of the vital activity of bugs and worms. Simulate them before finishing with a drill or drill. You can also apply simple carving elements: pigtails, dragons, etc. - you will get "Scandinavian style".

Sanding: tools and brushes

At large enterprises, machines and automatic lines are used, where everything is provided - from the feed rate of the workpiece to a powerful dust removal system. For an ordinary summer resident, such equipment is expensive and, in general, an unnecessary pleasure. If you will do this type of work often, it is better to purchase a brushing machine. The most common and publicly available is Makita. The most economical and simple option is a “grinder” or a drill, preferably with the ability to adjust the speed.

The whole brushing process can be divided into three stages:

1. Rough selection of soft fibers
2. Grinding
3. Polishing

Accordingly, each of them needs its own brush. At the first stage ( brushing) use metal (brushing). If you are making structures for the outdoors - a gazebo, a canopy, a fence, etc., then most likely this will be your only brush.

When processing with a metal brush, scratches can remain on the annual rings themselves, which are difficult to get rid of during further processing.

When working with kratsovka, you must adhere to the following rules:

• brush along the fibers, otherwise damage the annual rings and ruin the woody pattern;
• the speed of movement of the brush and the pressure should be approximately the same, otherwise pits will result;
• the light source should be placed on the side under acute angle, directing a beam of light across the fibers - this way you can better see the surface to be treated;
• do not press hard on the surface, do not overload the engine, otherwise it may cause premature equipment failure;
• the speed of revolutions should not be higher than 3000, better - 2000-2500: the brush can quickly scatter;
• be sure to work with glasses, do not neglect protective gloves: pieces of wire from the brush can fly off several meters, injuring others;
• take care of respiratory protection and dust removal: during this work, even eyelashes are covered with “powdery mascara”, let alone the lungs;
• a new brush needs to be “run in”, otherwise it will strongly “wave” the workpiece, after a while it will begin to process the surface cleaner;
• work only in one direction (rotation), the reverse should not be turned on - this will “kill” the metal brush;
• the humidity of the processed wood should not exceed 15%, otherwise, instead of a textured surface, you will get a shaggy-hairy one.

When processing sustainable and hard wood (larch, oak), be sure to use dust extraction systems: the dust of these wood species is considered carcinogenic and can cause lung cancer.

If you want to get rid of lint and get more quality finish , you will need another brush - plastic (nylon), or rather, a grinding disc made of polymer-abrasive material. The most common grain size is 120.

Abrasive brush - universal, characterized by a more delicate surface treatment. If you use this brush, you can do without a metal brush, especially if the item needs to be treated delicately or if you want to avoid the specific scratches left by brushes.

The principle of working with an abrasive brush is the same as with a metal one. It is better to reduce the speed to 1500 in order to extend the life of the brush. Dust when working with a plastic brush is finer and stickier, so do not forget about a respirator.

Surface treatment specifics:

• do not grind the edges-edges and corners of the workpieces, especially if you do not plan to varnish them later: they will cling and chip off;
• do not make a deep relief on the seats, table tops and other horizontal surfaces - they will make it difficult to clean the surface: spilled drinks, crumbs, etc. will clog between the fibers;
• in order to prevent clogging of dust and snags of a rag during cleaning, such surfaces must be sanded with an abrasive brush and fine-grained sandpaper.

The final stage of brushing - polishing or fine grinding: performed with sesal or other synthetic brushes. You can use fine-grained sandpaper, abrasive sponges, metal wool, removing dust from the finished surface with a wide brush and vacuum cleaner.

Finishing operations

At the final stage, tinting is done (changing the color of wood by several tones), patination (underlining the texture of wood with special compounds that penetrate into the pores opened during brushing), craquelure (the effect of cracking and drying out), and varnishing.

After brushing, the board will look like new, but with a textured surface. To give her old view, it is covered with various compositions, dark colors look more natural.

Exactly right game with the color of brushed wood gives it an aged look. Areas with soft wood (pores or depressions) are stained unevenly with more dark color, from solid (combs) - to lighter. Recently, options with light troughs and darker ridges have been popular.

The easiest way is to apply generously dark stain and immediately wipe this area with a cloth or a wide rubber spatula. In theory, stain should soak quickly into soft surfaces, but slower on ridges. However, this is often not the case in practice, so Leon42 stopped for more complicated way: after complete drying, the combs are polished with fine-grained sandpaper. This method requires further processing with varnish or colorless impregnations, so the top layer that is opened remains without a protective coating.

Another option is to use paint in two contrasting colors: the surface is completely painted over with the first color, then the second is applied. While the last coat dries, run with a wide rubber trowel, removing excess paint and exposing the ridges of the first coat.

Proper texturing is a simple but messy, time consuming and unhealthy process.

As a result of difficult and hard work, you will get decorative elements that carry the beauty of antiquity and at the same time have high strength. Every detail made with love with my own hands, will be unique.

According to the materials of the participant of the forum "House and Dacha"

Editor: Olga Travina

The use of wood in interior design is always a win-win. This is the most beautiful natural, aesthetically perfect, breathable material. In addition, it has a beneficial effect on human energy, has bactericidal properties. Look great in any room furniture, floor, doors, ceiling beams, various decorative elements made of natural wood which can be processed better than other materials.

Why artificially age a tree

It is difficult to get a definite answer to this question, but there are three main answers:

1. Personal preferences.
2. The processed material allows you to create one of fashion styles: vintage, shabby chic, retro, provence, country style.
3. If there are not enough funds for antique furniture, then you can age the tree yourself. Subsequently, nothing will prevent you from passing off a table or chair made of such material as a product with a history.

How to age a tree. Master Class. brushing

There are several ways to achieve the desired result. The most interesting and most used of these is the method of texturing, or brushing. Its name came from English word brush, which means "brush" in translation. The essence of this method is that soft fibers are removed from the top layer of solid wood. As a result of processing, the surface becomes embossed. In the process of natural aging of a tree, the same changes occur with it, but this takes a very long time. Brushing is considered the closest to reality method of imitation of antiquity. It is used to give the wood a pronounced textured texture.

What types of wood are suitable for brushing

Transform wooden surface semi-antique, using the brushing method, it is not difficult at home. But not all wood lends itself to such processing. In order to age a tree, you need to use rocks with a distinct texture: pine, oak, larch, ash, walnut. And maple, beech, cherry, pear, teak and some exotic trees categorically not amenable to mechanical aging. It is useless to apply such mechanical way and for products from MDF. But how to make an aged tree from these materials if others are not available? For this case, there is chemical method. If you need to age the wood conifers, it would be more rational to use the mechanical method.

Mechanical restoration

Brushing is a rather laborious process. The main tool in this case is a hard metal brush. Since it will not work quickly to age a tree in this way, the process can be accelerated. To do this, you need a drill or a grinder equipped with a special wire brush.

Processing wood with power tools is a rather unsafe process, associated with characteristic vibration and the risk of breaking off wood chips and metal rods. Therefore, it is necessary to know how to artificially age a tree and not suffer. Work is recommended to be carried out in a protective suit. To prevent small debris and dust from entering the eyes, it is necessary to wear special camouflage goggles or cover the face with a shield, and use a respirator to protect the respiratory tract.

Chemical processing

How to age wood with your own hands without using special tools? To do this, you need hard sandpaper. She needs to clean the surface, and then apply an ammonia solution ( ammonia), which causes a noticeable darkening of the wood. As a result, the structure of the tree will be able to appear especially brightly, and the noble darkening will give the finished product an antique look.

Depending on the degree of aging desired, this treatment can be light, superficial, using a non-rough polymer brush, or deep, when growth rings become visible. In this case, it is very important not to overdo it, since you can get not the desired textured noble product, but spoiled loose wood.

After initial rough stripping Regardless of the processing method, the workpiece must be brought to the desired aesthetic appearance. To do this, burrs are removed from the surface, then the product is polished with a polymer abrasive brush. After that, the wood must be additionally carefully lightened with sandpaper and give it a final gloss.

Patination

To obtain the desired effect of antiquity, mechanical processing alone is not enough. Then you can simply varnish the product. But it is recommended to perform the so-called patination. This will further emphasize the relief surface of the product. Patina is a characteristic luxurious gloss that a tree acquires over the years. Its reconstruction at home is carried out in several stages and requires a lot of effort.

Patination is the process of applying to a surface to be treated. special formulations and stain. They are chosen depending on the desired color and shade of the finished product. The compositions are applied in such a way that they get into the pores of the tree, which open during mechanical processing. It is important to achieve a patina effect, in which woody deep pores look a little darker and more contrast than lighter surfaces. At self-fulfillment such processing, it is recommended to use paint desired color. To do this, the surface is first completely painted over, and then the top layer is removed with a sponge or cloth, without waiting for drying. As a result, the tree looks more ancient and noble.

But patination is not necessary at all. Antique enameled items also look great. With the help of such materials, you can create a real masterpiece, which will be distinguished from real antiques only by a true connoisseur of antiquities. One layer of enamel should be applied to the surface. Then the tree needs to be dried and another layer applied. When re-painting the enamel, it is necessary to choose a more liquid one and a different color. When the wood is completely dry, it is necessary to wipe the surface with sandpaper so that the bottom layer shows through and scuffs are obtained.

Toning. Varnishing

After patination, further toning should be performed. For this process, compositions based on natural oils and resins are used. On the last step wood processing is covered with 2-3 layers of varnish. Then it should be rubbed with a soft cloth to give extra shine. Varnishing fixes all previous stages and gives the product a finished look. Despite the fact that the process is laborious, anyone can master it. The main thing is to follow the technology. Then it will be clear how to age a tree with your own hands.

Brushing Secrets

How to age a tree to get best effect? To do this, you need to know some subtleties.

• Paint the main surface following colors: white, red, black, blue, yellow, purple, brown, orange. For pores take blue, red, yellow and white colors.
• If you look at a board tinted with paint at an angle, you can notice the heterogeneity of the application.
• Manual brushing allows you to do the work more artistically, although the process will be very long, unlike the automatic method.
• The more defects (knots, curls, eyes) wood has, the better the product made from it will look.

Where can treated wood be used?

Far from every dwelling you can find processed material, since it is not enough just to age a tree. It is very important to use it correctly in the interior. Thanks to the use of the brushing method, you can create exclusive, almost antique products. For example, furniture items: exquisite book shelves, chests of drawers, cabinets, kitchen sets, country furniture, picture frames or mirrors, candlesticks and other decor.

This method is perfect for processing parquet and floor boards, as well as for the manufacture of doors, partitions, various wooden elements. Antique-treated wood is often used in the decoration of the walls of a home bath or sauna, non-standard rooms or a whole house, retro cafes, bars, billiard rooms.

Today, it is no secret to anyone how to age a tree. In addition to brushing, there are many more ways. They differ in the complexity of the technology and the amount of time spent. But regardless of the choice, aged wood helps to create a unique spiritual atmosphere in any room, to connect eternal values ​​​​and the spirit of modern times, to fill the house with an atmosphere of noble antiquity.

Recently, the use of aged wood in the decoration of furniture and interiors has come into fashion. Even the simplest cheap furniture made of wood will look stylish and expensive after its artificial aging. This article will open up some simple and not very expensive ways to make old wood for furniture and other wooden products with your own hands.

AT natural conditions the tree ages under the influence of the sun, wind, rain and other phenomena. And this process takes place over a long period of time. We will make the process of aging wood artificial, which will significantly reduce time and improve the final result. Briefly describe the whole work, it will consist of two stages: mechanical restoration wood (light damage, removal of soft fibers) and painting with varnishes and paint.

To age a tree, you will need:

• hard metal brush;
• circular brush;
• large and small skins;
• estimate;
• several brushes;
• antiseptic for wood;
• White Spirit;
• dark Pinotex or dark azure Belinka;
• white azure Belinka;
• big sponge.

With a set of these tools and materials, we can age a tree in five different ways. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

The first way to age a tree is to remove soft fibers and paint

You can artificially age a wooden surface with a stiff brush, which removes the soft fibers of the wood and thus creates a relief, the lines of which will be emphasized by the color of the wood.

The wooden surface is pre-sanded, then it is processed along the fibers of the circular (using special nozzle for a grinder) or a metal hand brush, as a result of which soft wood fibers are removed from the surface.

Sawdust is removed with a special brush with soft bristles, but in no case by hand, in order to avoid splinters.

The tree instantly changes its appearance, acquires a beautiful relief and a contrasting color, which is specially emphasized by staining in two layers.

For staining, Belinka translucent azure is used, which is applied to the cleaned surface with a brush or roller.

The tree will already have a rather attractive appearance.

After a few minutes, a sponge is taken and with its help the layer of glaze is carefully removed, as a result of which the wooden surface acquires a relief. You can leave the surface as it is and cover it clear varnish if this color of aged wood is to your liking.

But if you want to add color to the style a la Provence, then another autumn thin layer of Belinka white azure is applied on top of the first layer.

After a few minutes, we carefully remove the fresh azure with a sponge, as a result of which we get a bleached aged tree, with which we create stylish interior a la Provence. When the glaze is completely dry, the surface can be varnished with the same base as the azure, or another coat of colorless azure can be applied.

This way of aging wood is ideal for beams and other elements. wooden structures, when creating an antique style.

The second way is the relief of antiquity and multi-layer coloring of wood

With the help of this method, the tree is specially given the appearance of an old, antique thing, worn by time. For this, a multi-layered coloring of the tree is used.

Previously, the surface of the tree must be specially subjected to all kinds of minor damage: it is beaten with a hammer, pierced with an awl, torn with a saw, sealed with screws or steel rods, everything possible is done to give it the relief of antiquity.

Then the surface is primed with a layer of Pinotex. After it dries, it is covered with a continuous thick layer of tinted paint (antiseptic).

Since Pinotex has thick consistency, it can be laid unevenly, as it is much thicker than Belinka's azure. It is used in cases where you need to create a thick bottom layer on an aged tree.

Azure Belinka is more liquid, it is easily and evenly distributed over the entire surface of the tree, creating an even surface color.

When the first layer dries, it can be intentionally subjected to minor damage: rubbed with a fine or coarse sandpaper, walked with a metal brush. The main thing is not to overdo it. The time span here should be kept to a minimum. According to experts, the most reliable effect of antiquity is given by painting with Pinotex with an uneven layer.

After a deliberate aging procedure by scratching with sandpaper or a wire brush, a translucent layer of white azure is applied to the surface so that a dark underlayer can be seen through it. It is not necessary to apply paint in an even layer.

After the top layer has dried, metal brush Longitudinal movements scrape off the top layer of white glaze, as a result of which a relief pattern of aged wood is created. Such a pattern has a very contrasting color, which is very far from natural color aged tree. To bring the color to a more perfect tone, it needs to be made a little muted. To do this, the white glaze is diluted by half with white spirit and the wooden surface is covered with this mixture.

The aged tree, created on the basis of Belinka azure, has a calm warm tone after final processing. Pinotex gives a more interesting decorative effect, with deep dark color basics. It is used in the creation of aged furniture, as well as in decoration elements.

The third way is brushing and white icing

This way to age a tree is the easiest and fastest. The wooden surface is treated with a metal brush, then covered with a layer of white glaze.

After the glaze has dried, the surface is again treated with a metal brush. As a result, we have a bleached wooden surface, slightly aged with a relief pattern from a metal brush.

Master class: "How to age a tree?"

Let's look at another way to age a tree with your own hands. The photo above shows the stages of work, and below I will describe them in detail.

1. You need to choose the right tree for aging. You should not choose young wood, because of the small fibers it has no decorative value. Resinous wood will be difficult and long to process. The tree should have a pronounced structure and healthy knots.

3. With a chisel, you need to make shapeless serifs on the edges of the board, as if with an ax.

4. A drill bit with hard nylon bristles can be used to remove soft wood grains. At the same time, you should not be too zealous and put pressure on the tool, pressing should be light so that the efficiency of the work does not decrease. You can also use a metal brush for processing - in this case there will be a rougher result.

5. You can add the effect of wormholes, but this is not for everyone. Using a core or a blunt nail, we make holes 1-2 mm deep.

6. Now you need to clean the surface and open it with Pinotex Uitra paint-lacquer. This coating will be resistant even to atmospheric conditions. You can also use Senezh aquadecor.

7. After the paint has dried, the surface must be sanded with fine sandpaper No. 80. The result will be very beautiful effect, when the depressions on the wood remain dark, and the protrusions are light, that is, we highlight the volume and structure of the wood.

8. The final stage is the re-opening of the red tree.

Aging wood with fire

You can age a tree with a gas burner.

There are three main ways here:

1. Aging without prior mechanical processing of wood. That is, we simply emphasize the texture of wood by firing it. Then we pass with fine sandpaper and open it with varnish.

2. First, mechanical processing of wood is carried out - we remove soft fibers, and then we carry out firing. This method will give the tree a relief and three-dimensional view which will definitely look great.

3. Intensive firing of wood, which will burn out the soft fibers of the wood and subsequent mechanical processing with a hard brush.

Finally, I want to give some advice:

• Aged products from old boards will look more beautiful and effective. If you do not have such material, ask your neighbors or acquaintances, often such material can be obtained completely free of charge, and it will be much easier to work with it.
• Different types of wood will age and paint differently when using the same materials. This must be taken into account when collecting wooden structures.
• Now in stores you can buy a ready-made aged board without performing the above operations.