Split system installation instructions. Installation of air conditioners. Instruction. Outdoor unit installation requirements

When they mention that it is necessary to install an air conditioner, they usually mean the installation of a split system. It consists of two blocks. Internal and external. In addition to this system, there are also monobloc air conditioners, the installation of which is not difficult. They are simply inserted into a pre-prepared hole in the wall or in the window. The cracks are filling up mounting foam, the device connects to the network and starts working, cooling the room. Everything is very simple.

But the installation of an air conditioner, which consists of two blocks, is more complicated. And you can't do without instructions. But such an installation does not require any special skill. It can be easily done on your own. And save some money on it. Depending on the city of residence, sometimes very significant.

What air conditioner do you have?

Need to start. And you need to choose very carefully. Here you need to take into account some parameters, such as:

• the ability to install an external unit (or);
• room volume in sq.m;
• wall thickness;
• the presence or absence of thermal insulation.

After all, if you purchase an air conditioner, the power of which will be small, then it will not be able to cool the room well. It will still be hot. If you install the device high power, a lot of electricity will be consumed, the room will be cold. When choosing an air conditioner, it is best to take the advice of a specialist or get advice from a store.

Required Tools

Well, household appliance bought and brought to the place of installation. For its installation, you will need the following tools and materials:

• perforator, drill;
• self-tapping screws and choppers;
• building level;
• screwdriver;
• cutting and flaring tool copper pipes OK.

Now we have to choose again. But this time there is a place to install blocks. There are rules here. The unit inside the room must be installed so that there is a distance of at least 15 cm from the ceiling to it. And from the nearest wall - at least 30 cm. You cannot install the unit above the head of the bed and above the dining table. Despite the fact that the air flow brings the long-awaited coolness, you can catch a cold from it.

The unit must not be covered with a curtain. In this case, the air conditioner will not only work poorly, but will quickly break down. The structure must be installed strictly horizontally. It's not just about aesthetics. After all, if the unit is installed even with a slight slope, this will affect the quality of its work, and therefore the durability of the air conditioner. In particular, the drainage of the device will not work well.

Installing the indoor unit

The indoor unit is hung on a special bar. To fix it on the wall, you need to drill holes, hammer chopsticks into them, fasten the bar with self-tapping screws. Before you need to try to hang and remove the block to know how it's done. Do not mess around for a long time when the tubes are attached to it.

Mounting plate fixture for indoor unit

Horizontal fastening is checked by level

How to install an outdoor air conditioner unit

Now choose a place to install the outdoor unit. In order to facilitate installation, it is mounted either under the window or to the right of it. Mount the outdoor unit on special brackets. It should be noted that the device weighs from 25 to 65 kg. So you need the help of a second person. In addition, people should insure each other when working outside the window.

Air conditioner installation instructions

There must be a distance of no more than 6 meters and no less than 1.5 from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit. The optimal distance is 3 meters. Then it is very easy to blow through the pipeline, freeing it from air and moisture. At a greater distance, it will be necessary to refuel the air conditioner and use a vacuum pump, and at a shorter distance, the devices will transmit mutual vibration to each other, which is undesirable. But if the blocks are attached side by side, it is recommended to make a one and a half meter loop on the pipeline. It makes the air conditioner work better.

Outdoor air conditioner unit under the window

First you need to punch a hole in the wall. It is necessary in order to pass the air conditioner pipeline. The hole must be at least 5 cm in diameter. It is pierced with a perforator. It is possible that fragments of brick or concrete will fall outward, so during this work it is necessary to ensure that there are no people below. When punching a hole, you need to take into account that there should be a slight downward slope. If there is no slope, the drainage will not work.

Outdoor air conditioner unit on the wall between windows

Ropes are passed through this hole, to which the outdoor unit of the air conditioner will be tied. But first you need to install the brackets. A rope is passed through the hole to insure a person. One end of the rope is tied to the belt, and the other is tightly tied, for example, to a water pipe. The assistant also insures the worker. AT outer wall holes are drilled, and the brackets are fastened with powerful anchor bolts, taking into account big weight block.

Outdoor air conditioner unit on the balcony railing

After the brackets are fixed, ropes are tied to the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, it is lowered onto the brackets and fixed. The distance from the device to the wall must be at least 10 cm. It must be said that the installation outdoor unit is the hardest part of the job.

If the apartment is on the ground floor, then this installation is easier to do. But to protect against hooligans, the block still needs to be placed as high as possible and closed with a grate. It is easy to install it even when the apartment has an open balcony.

Attention! The unit cannot be installed on glazed loggias, as the air conditioner will not work well and will quickly become unusable.

Now you need to mount the highway. It is necessary to have a device for cutting and expanding copper pipes. If there is such a device, then there are no difficulties. The tubes are cut to the desired length, the ends are flared. Then they are attached first to the indoor unit, and then to the outdoor unit.

Photo: line for tubes and cable

Attached to the indoor unit: copper pipeline, drain tube and power cable. Copper tubes are attached with nuts, the drain tube is put on a plastic fitting. When connecting the cable, you need to remember where the wire is connected. certain color. You need to connect it in the same way when connecting to the outdoor unit. To make the highway on the wall look beautiful, you need to use a decorative box. The box is attached to the wall before the main line is laid.

Installing the outdoor unit mount

After connecting the tubes and cable, the entire pipeline is wrapped with adhesive tape and passed through the hole during outer wall. The ends of the tubes must be covered with something so that debris does not get into them while they are passed through the hole. The line is connected to the outdoor unit, only the drain pipe remains free to hang.

Now you need to bleed excess air from the pipeline to prepare the air conditioner for operation. To do this, simply open the valves for a second on the ports for connecting copper pipes. In order to get to the valve, you need to unscrew the copper cap. The valve is opened for a second with a hex wrench. It is recommended to do this three times.

Wiring diagram

If the route is long, longer than three meters, then you need to use a vacuum pump to purge it, which is connected to the system.

After completion of work, the hole in the wall is filled with mounting foam and puttied.

It is best to connect the air conditioner to the mains through a separate cable. The cable is connected to the electrical panel through an emergency shutdown device. Do not forget about grounding.

A properly installed air conditioner can operate for many years without requiring any maintenance. preventive maintenance. Especially if it's a good quality product.

installing an air conditioner with your own handsClimatic equipment is installed in advance, before the onset of heat. In some cases, to save money, an air conditioner is installed by hand. The main condition is to strictly adhere to the instructions, to carry out work in the recommended place. Incorrectly selected parts can cause damage to the climate control device.

The principle of operation of the air conditioner, split system

For the formation general idea about the organization of the internal structure, and before installing the air conditioner, we recommend that you consider the principle of operation of the system. Climatic consists of 2 equivalent blocks - compressor and evaporator. They are connected to each other by special adapters, branch pipes and tubes.

The evaporation unit is installed inside the dwelling, and the compressor unit is installed outside. High-performance and expensive models are equipped with one compressor and several indoor units.

Refrigerant under high pressure is sent to the evaporator. Then there is an expansion of freon, its gradual boiling and vaporization. It is this cold vapor that absorbs the heat of the air. The air conditioning system works with the active formation of water condensate, which settles on a special radiator. At the final stage, water is discharged from the building through a special tube.

In the process of operation, the compressor pumps out the evaporation of freon. The pressure inside the unit is increased by a built-in pump. Gradually, under the influence of temperature, the refrigerant changes from a liquid state to a vapor state. A dense "fog" is sent to the condensate chamber for gradual cooling (a small fan is used for this purpose) and transition to a liquid state. Then the circle closes and the process loops.

The efficiency and duration of the functioning of the house, as well as the amount of electricity consumed by the appliance, are determined by the intensity of operation of the unit, the climatic features of the region. If there is a heater in the room near the climate control device, the level of electricity consumed increases, which is fraught with the failure of the device. Even ordinary dust can provoke a breakdown. The room is scheduled for regular wet cleaning.

Couplings and joints require sealing in without fail in order to level the likelihood of evaporation of freon or other refrigerant. Install the outdoor unit of the air conditioner so that it is level below the inside of the unit. outdoor node placed in a dark place away from sun rays.

Do-it-yourself air conditioning installation: tools - a complete list

Installation of air conditioning systems is a technically complex, responsible, and therefore expensive event. All aspects are important in this matter - experience, practical skills, theoretical base and availability necessary tool. These factors determine the speed and quality of installation. Let's analyze the feasibility of using the tools that come with the standard installation kit.

Depending on the area of ​​application, they are divided into several functional groups.

power tool

Without a power tool, installing an air conditioner with your own hands is simply impossible. We are not talking about any specialized solutions:

• perforator;
• "Bulgarian";
• drill.

The puncher is chosen powerful so that it can do it without problems through hole in the wall through which the line is laid between the indoor and outdoor units. Low-power combined electric drills, where only the function of a hammer drill is provided, are indispensable in this case. They are not able to drill through brickwork.

Before you install the air conditioner yourself, you should make sure that you have all the necessary tools.

For a concrete wall, you will additionally need a grinder to remove metal fittings, as well as other consumables - discs, drills, concrete bits.

Measuring tool

Installation of a window air conditioner is carried out with mandatory control horizontal level. You can use markers, marking pencils, construction or laser level. You will also need a number of additional equipment. Air conditioners with installation cannot be reliably and efficiently fixed without additional technical means.

Specialized equipment

Specialized tools are necessary for high-quality and efficient functioning climatic equipment. Tools for soldering copper pipes, vacuum cleaner industrial type and vacuum pump.

1. Devices for connecting copper pipes. We are talking about low temperature welding. It is carried out using a special solder and gas burner. A pipe cutter is used to cut them. It is better to refuse an ordinary hacksaw for cutting metal, since small chips will certainly remain in the line, which is fraught with damage to the climate device. To remove the chamfer, use a rimmer, rolling. The main turns are formed by a pipe bender.
2. An industrial vacuum cleaner is used to suck up dust and small debris. Under no circumstances should they fall into the appliance.
3. Vacuum pump. The unit dries up the line. If you follow the installation rules, then this procedure is mandatory, without it the efficiency of the air conditioner will be nominal.

The listed equipment for installation is basic. Can't do without additional Supplies- pliers, drywall, stepladders, metal shears, screwdrivers. The exact list is determined by the owner, taking into account specific conditions.

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation: step by step instructions

Do-it-yourself installation of an air conditioner begins only after purchase and preparation necessary equipment, tools and climatic equipment. First of all, the outdoor unit is fixed on the outer wall, after which internal work is carried out.

At all stages, it is extremely important to observe safety precautions, especially when it comes to skyscrapers. Installation of the outdoor unit is one of the most important and crucial stages.

Outdoor unit fixing

Installation of a window in general, and its outer part, in particular, on the walls country houses is not accompanied by any difficulties. But in the case of multi-apartment buildings, not everything is so simple, the place is selected with great care. When deciding where to install the air conditioner, pay attention to areas with minimal natural light.

There are several basic rules:

1. The outdoor unit should not spoil the view from the window to the neighbors in the apartment.
2. A small tube is used to drain condensate.
3. The climatic device is placed in such a way that it is within reach, because. equipment requires periodic maintenance.

In 90% of cases, the block is fixed at the north or east side, under the window or at the bottom of the balcony. These are the unwritten rules for installing an air conditioner, which are mandatory among professionals. If they are observed, it will not be difficult to reach the outside of the climate control device.

• The attachment points of the brackets are checked with a building level, and then holes are prepared in the wall. Anchor bolts are used for secure fixation.
• To connect the functional blocks, an 80 mm through hole is made. If possible, it is better to drill a hole between the bricks, along the seam.

According to the previously prepared markings, metal brackets are installed, screwing the bolts as securely as possible. Standard mounting air conditioner is carried out in such a way that between the climate unit and outer wall a distance of 10 cm was maintained. The gaps are closed at the final stage, after connecting the device.

Installing the indoor unit

Do-it-yourself air conditioning installation indoors, where to start? First of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that it is strictly forbidden to mount the indoor unit behind curtains, near electrical appliances, above heaters or batteries - all these devices often cause failure of the block processor.

Before installing the air conditioner, you should carefully check the wall for laying heating, water pipes, electrical wiring.

The fastening of a metal plate from standard components for the installation of air conditioners begins only if the work area is completely free: the distance from the ceiling is from 10 cm, from the corner of the walls - at least 5 cm. Two points are connected with a meter and mark a horizontal line. The indoor unit is mounted on a fixed metal plate.

The next stage in the installation of the air conditioner, or to be more precise, its indoor unit, is the preparation of holes in the wall for connecting communication hoses, electrical wiring, and pipes for draining liquid condensate. interior space should be enough to freely accommodate all the elements in the wall.

Independent installation of the air conditioner is not possible without separate wiring for the indoor unit. For this, wiring with a cross section of at least 1.5 square meters is suitable. mm. It is mandatory to connect a separate machine for the climate control device. Upon completion of the wiring, it is connected to the input of the shield (the indicator can accurately determine the "phase" and "neutral" wire).

The terminals of the outdoor and indoor units are connected to each other with multi-core wiring (it is pushed into the hole prepared in the wall). The installation scheme is clearly described in the instructions that come with each climate control device. When installing air conditioners on your own at home, it is extremely important that the terminals by name match the wires themselves. Otherwise, there is a danger short circuit.

Pipe laying instructions

A standard air conditioner installation kit includes several copper pipes. They are carefully cut with a margin of 1 meter for bends. The tubes are prepared with a special tool - a pipe bender, when using it, the metal does not crack, no dents form. Proper preparation includes covering the pipes with polyurethane foam hoses that act as thermal insulation.

Special threaded flanges are put on the ends of the tube. Next stage installation work– high-quality flaring of copper tubes. This process is carried out extremely carefully in order to eliminate the risk of grooves and microcracks. The nut should fit onto the rolling without any problems. As for tightening, it is performed with a special torque wrench.

Do-it-yourself installation of the air conditioner continues: pipelines are attached to the fittings. It is impossible to confuse anything, because. copper pipes have different cross-sections and diameters. The flanges are securely screwed onto the fittings, while the connection must be extremely tight, but at the same time, the tube should not be pinched or damaged.

At the final stage, the installation of air conditioning systems comes down to connecting a plastic pipe to a reinforced housing. For reliable fastening Use heat shrink tubing supplied. Put drainage tube better at the maximum distance from the base of the wall.

Installation and installation of air conditioners will be incomplete without placing pipes in a special hole made in the wall. There they are carefully and extremely accurately aligned. Outside, the outlet and underwater pipes are fixed with clamps for greater reliability. An electrical wire is placed near them for connection to the outdoor unit.

In the room, the holes are blown out with mounting foam, as an alternative, they are filled with liquid silicone. Installing an air conditioner on a balcony and in a house involves checking the structure for leaks with a soap solution or a bicycle pump. Soap solution is washed with a sponge or cloth. If defects are found, the thread is tightened tighter.

Vacuuming the air exchange system

The correct installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is described above. The owner should be aware that to remove moisture, dust and the smallest particles from the climate device, the system is evacuated. It is performed upon completion of the final and high-quality sealing of the joints, because it is impossible to get rid of the air completely. The air conditioner with the installation is connected to a vacuum pump, air pumping takes about 1 hour.

Freon or other refrigerant is pumped into the system. The tank on the balcony is filled with a pressure gauge or adapter connected, since it is necessary to strictly control the pressure in the system. After preparing the air conditioner, a special automatic disconnector turns on independently, and the system goes into test mode. With uniform and efficient air circulation, the hole in the wall is sealed with mounting foam, followed by decor.

Installation of industrial air conditioners is carried out exclusively by professionals, because these are expensive climatic complexes for the adjustment of which it is required specialized equipment. Spare parts are included in the standard package, you do not have to buy anything in addition.

Now you know how to install the air conditioner yourself and in what sequence to perform the corresponding work.

Installing an air conditioner with your own hands: the secrets of professionals

Installation scheme window air conditioners provides for the possibility of installation in winter period. That's just have to be content with not too much comfortable conditions. Water or snow must not get into the line. It is better to put and pump in the refrigerant at a positive temperature outside the window (at sub-zero temperatures the oil seal often fails because it is rubber).

To install air conditioners, it is not at all necessary to evacuate the system. The nut is not completely screwed to the copper tube, then the control valve located at the thick tube opens slightly. Under pressure, the air will be forced out by freon, and it will be necessary to quickly tighten the nut.

This method is incorrect, since the quality and sealing of the system cannot be verified. Installation of industrial air conditioners using this technology is not carried out.

Below is detailed video instructions, which demonstrate the main stages of installing climate systems with your own hands.

Unlike mobile air coolers, which consist of a single unit, household split systems require additional financial costs for installation. It is quite possible to reduce costs: study the detailed guide on how to install a new air conditioner in an apartment and do the installation yourself.

Preparatory stage

Split systems are most often used for air conditioning of private houses and apartments, as they are reliable, convenient and compact. The air conditioning unit consists of two blocks - internal and external, interconnected by two freon tubes, an electric cable and a drainage line.

Warning. When buying a new air conditioner, keep in mind an important nuance: all the freon is pumped into the outdoor module, and the indoor one is empty. Do not open the valves on the side of the machine until the piping is connected.

Installing "splits" is much more complicated than installing floor and window air conditioners. Here, 2 separate blocks must be correctly placed outside and inside the room, lay and hermetically connect the lines. The issue of connecting to the mains is solved more simply - a line is laid to the installed indoor module, protected by a circuit breaker.

What you need to do before proceeding with self-assembly:

1. Buy additional materials.
2. Prepare special tools and fixtures.
3. Determine the location of both units and the route for laying highways with freon.

The location of the split system blocks is subject to certain rules. The flow of cooled air from the indoor unit should not directly blow people, and the maximum distance from the outdoor unit should not exceed 5 m. Most often, the unit is placed on the side partition next to the window and outer wall. Technological indents from walls and ceilings are indicated in the diagram.

Now some tips on where to install the outdoor unit:

Note. Inverter-type air conditioners are quieter than conventional ones, but the fan noise is still audible at night.

List of tools and materials

The following installation materials are not included in the delivery of the split system, they will need to be purchased independently:

• metal bracket for suspension of the outdoor module (you can weld it yourself from steel equal-shelf angles 35 x 3 mm);
• four-core copper cable type VVG with a cross section of 1.5 or 2.5 mm², depending on the power of the cooler;
• tubes of freon pipelines copper with a diameter of 6.35 mm and 9.52 mm of the required length;
• rubber heat-insulating sleeve of the K-Flex type along the length of the line;
• corrugated drainage pipe (metal-plastic Ø16 mm is also suitable);
• winding tape PVA or PVC;
• polyurethane foam - 1 bottle.

Note. Depending on the conditions for laying inter-unit highways, it may be necessary plastic cable channel or dry mortar for filling the furrow.

In addition to a home set of locksmith tools, installing an air conditioner requires the use of special tools and equipment:

• perforator with a long drill or crown drill for concrete;
• vacuum pump;
• manifold with pressure gauges and hoses;
• device for manual flaring of copper pipes and scissors that do not form metal chips.

Often on the Internet there are instructions on how to install and run a split system without a vacuum pump, where the air from the pipelines and the evaporative heat exchanger is pushed out by freon pressure. We categorically advise against following such recommendations and strictly observing the technology of evacuating the system before filling. Otherwise, the compressor may fail much earlier than the due date.

Advice. There is a way to save money on buying or renting a rolling tool and speed up the assembly of freon lines. Ready-made installation kits are available for sale, including factory flared tubes, insulation and a cable with a drain hose. The price depends on the length of the bundle (3, 5 or 7 m).

Air conditioner installation instructions

It is assumed that you have already purchased a split system of the required cooling capacity, you know exactly the dimensions of the devices and have allocated places for them. Installation work is carried out in several stages:

1. Marking the route for laying inter-unit communications, supplying electricity and sawing a furrow in the wall (if necessary).
2. Fixing the indoor unit, laying lines through the wall and connecting.
3. Installation of an external module, connection of communications.
4. Refrigerant charge and start up.

Depending on the conditions of the work, the main bundle is laid in two ways: openly in the PVC cable duct or hidden inside the wall. Use the first option in a residential apartment, the second - in the process of repairing the premises.

Reference. Ninety percent of manufacturers of split systems provide for the output of communications from the left end of the indoor unit. When hanging to the left of the window and hidden laying of pipelines, the groove in the wall will have to be cut out with a turn, as shown in the photo.

The first stage of work is carried out as follows:

How to make the furrows yourself and prepare for the installation of the air conditioner, will tell experienced master in your video:

Indoor unit installation

Before you begin, take the machine out of the box and read the enclosed technical documentation, where the manufacturer makes his own requirements for the installation of the product and a diagram is given. Do-it-yourself installation of the air conditioner according to the step-by-step instructions:

Advice. In order not to peel off the winding tape of the bundle, it is better to insert a plastic sleeve into the technological hole. Alternatively, make it from a plastic bottle.

After hanging the indoor unit, straighten the wiring harness and lay it inside the furrows. At open method gaskets, immediately install the cable - channel and hide the pipelines there. How to accurately connect the highways, see the video:

Outdoor module installation

Mounting the unit on the balcony will not cause any particular difficulties. When installing under a window, secure yourself with insurance and have an assistant support you while screwing the bracket and outdoor unit. Work is carried out in the following sequence:

Advice. In order not to get out of the window waist-deep, tightening the nuts under the bracket, buy special plastic clamps or make them yourself. The bolt is inserted into the corner, a lock in the form of a washer is put on the thread and prevents it from falling out. At the end, the module fastening nuts are screwed with a long socket wrench, as is done in the video.

Startup instructions

At this stage, it is important to remove air and water vapor from the freon circuit by vacuuming. Then the lines are filled with refrigerant pumped into the outdoor unit at the factory. To refuel a new air conditioner, the following technology is used:

After successful refueling of the lines and the indoor module, turn on the split system for cooling, then test it in different operating modes. Make sure that the condensate flows from the drain and not along the wall under the indoor unit. Do not forget to close the ends of the service ports with standard plugs and put the cover on.

Conclusion

The success of the event depends heavily on the quality of the installation work. If you are careless when installing the air conditioner, then at best you will lose freon, and with it the money saved on calling the masters will fly into the atmosphere. In the worst case, the compressor will “grab” steam or dirt that has entered the pipeline, and will fail in just a year. So take your time and pay close attention to all connections.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

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To install an air conditioner, as a rule, you need to call specialists who, upon completion of the installation of the equipment, will issue you with a document indicating that the work has been carried out correctly. When installing a split system with your own hands, you lose the right to service under warranty. But, in order to save money, many home craftsmen are trying to install the air conditioner with their own hands. At the same time, one point should be taken into account: in order to qualitatively connect the external unit of the system with the internal one, and then put the unit into operation, you will need to purchase quite expensive equipment. In addition, installing a split system is a rather troublesome business if you do it yourself. The purchase of equipment is advisable in the following cases:

• you plan to move one or more units to new locations;
• if you have purchased several units;
• you are planning a major renovation in the apartment, which involves the complete dismantling and then re-installation of the split system;
• you want to help install a split system to your friends or relatives;
• if you need this tool kit to repair your car air conditioner.

In other cases, installing an air conditioner in an apartment with your own hands is impractical.

The standard package of a split system usually includes such components.

Important! To install the air conditioner with your own hands and put it into operation, you need to supplement the standard equipment of the device.

Materials and tools for installation

To install a split system yourself, you will need to purchase the following materials.

Without special tool also can't do:

• pipe bender (how to use, shown in the video);
• rimmer-sweep;
• pipe cutter (how to use it, you can learn from the video);
• rolling (see video);
• manometric manifold;
• Vacuum pump.

Selecting the installation location for the indoor unit

The location of the indoor unit should be such that during its operation you do not experience discomfort from the flow of cool air. If you look at the following figure, it will become clear without words what exist ideal options installation of air conditioning in the apartment.

When the module is placed above the head of the bed, the flow of cold air will not enter the relaxation area and will not be harmful to health. The workplace is recommended to be positioned so that the air flow is either on the side or behind. If the desk you are working at is under an air conditioner in your apartment or office, you can install a special screen under the hair dryer to direct the flow along the ceiling.

Indoor unit installation requirements

Exist following rules placement of the indoor unit of the air conditioner in the room:

• the distance between the hair dryer and the ceiling must be at least 15 cm (some models are installed at a distance of 20-30 cm from the ceiling);
• distance from installed unit to the wall on the right or left - at least 30 cm;
• the obstacle in the way of the air flow must be no closer than 150 cm.

Sometimes the question arises: at what height to hang the indoor module, if the room high ceilings? On average, you can hang the air conditioner on the wall at a height 280 cm from the floor, as it shown on the picture.

The following figure shows examples various options installations that clearly show how best to install the air conditioner.

Outdoor unit installation requirements

The external module of the unit is usually placed under the window, near the window or on the balcony. If the balcony railing is strong enough, then you can fix the module on it.

If the apartment is on the first floor, then the outdoor unit must be located at a height of at least 2 meters from the ground, adhering to the rule: the outdoor unit must be mounted slightly lower than the indoor unit, or at the same level with it.

When installing split system modules, you should remember the values ​​​​of the minimum and maximum distance between them. These values ​​may differ for different manufacturers climate technology. For example, for Panasonic split systems, the minimum distance between modules can be 3 meters, and for Daikin - from 1.5 to 2.5 meters.

Some manufacturers do not specify a minimum distance at all. In this case, the blocks can be placed on a back-to-back basis.

The maximum route length between modules is usually 6 meters. More is allowed, but in such a situation it will be required freon refueling, which entails additional material investments. Therefore, if produced self-installation air conditioner, it is better not to exceed the indicated 6 meters.

Installation order

How to install an air conditioner, including inverter air conditioner, implies phased installation all its modules and highways. Installation must be carried out by following the step-by-step instructions below.

The rules for installing an air conditioner state that at the first stage it will be necessary to install an indoor unit (hair dryer) of the air conditioner. To do this, follow the steps below.

1. To properly install the air conditioner yourself, take a steel mounting frame and attach it to the wall in the place where the hair dryer is supposed to be mounted (taking into account all the distances described above). It is important that the frame for mounting the air conditioner is placed strictly horizontal(use the building level).
2. Mark the places for fastenings.
3. Using a puncher, make holes in the wall and hammer plastic dowels into them.
4. Attach the plate to the wall and fix it with self-tapping screws.
5. The hair dryer is hung on a mount (plate) for the air conditioner, after which it is necessary to check the horizontal again. If you allow the air conditioner in the room to skew in the opposite direction from the drainage channel, then the liquid will accumulate in the pan and flow down the walls.

Preparation of communication channels

Do-it-yourself air conditioning installation continues with the preparation of the channel for the highway. To bring out the freon circuit tubes, supply cables and drainage, it is necessary to make a hole of the appropriate diameter in the wall. For this, a perforator with a long drill is used. For free outflow of condensate to the street, it is necessary to make slight slope.

Outdoor unit installation

Installation of an external air conditioner unit is considered the most time-consuming process in the installation of split systems. Difficulties are associated with the fact that the weight of the module can reach 20 kg or more, due to the compressor placed in it. In addition, most often the external module is installed at a high height.

First, make a markup using a level. Then, using a perforator, make holes. Further, anchor bolts are screwed into them, and the brackets themselves are screwed to them with nuts. After the brackets are securely fastened, the outdoor unit is installed on them.

When installing the air conditioner, especially the outdoor unit, you will need the help of at least one person.. If the module is installed at a high altitude, then you will not be able to install the air conditioner yourself. It is better to use the services of climbers to hang this module.

The outdoor module is attached to the brackets with bolts. It is recommended to put thick rubber under the feet to reduce vibration.

Connection of blocks by communications

To continue the installation of a split system with your own hands, you need to connect both modules to each other.

1. First, remove protective plastic lids at the terminals of the outdoor unit. Using the instructions, connect the control and power cables that come from the indoor module to them.
2. Carefully, in order to further connect the modules, make route installation your air conditioner, having previously put thermal insulation on the tubes (the ends are fixed with reinforced tape). To prevent debris from getting into the tubes, also seal their ends with tape. The track is fastened with clamps screwed to the wall. After that, measure the length of the line and cut the tubes, leaving a margin of 10 cm. Put union nuts on them and roll the ends. Using a rimmer, chamfer. The laying of the route (main) for the air conditioner can be carried out both outside the premises and inside, if for aesthetic reasons it is forbidden to place any communications on the facade of the building.
3. Using union nuts, screw the pipes first to the fittings of the outdoor unit, then to the fittings of the indoor unit.
4. Secure the drain tube using plastic clamps.

The connection diagram of the split system modules is shown below.

vacuuming

Without evacuation of the line, it is impossible to run refrigerant into the system. This procedure will require a vacuum pump and a gauge manifold. The pump is connected to the filling connection through the manifold as shown in the figure below (the valves on the manifold must be in the "closed" position), after which it turns on for 20-30 minutes. to remove air from the system.

After turning on the vacuum pump, you need to open the handle located under the low pressure gauge. After a short period of time, the pointer on the pressure gauge will begin to fall and reach zero, within 30 seconds or more. The pumping time depends on the length of the line and the diameter of the tubes. The position of the arrow at zero means that in the line a vacuum has formed.

Do not turn off the pump at this stage. Continue vacuuming for about 30 minutes more. After the specified time, you should first turn off the tap on the manifold, and only then turn off the pump. If the faucet is not closed, air will be sucked into the system.

Freon filling

Freon is launched into the system without disconnecting the hose connected to the service port valve. If this is done before starting the refrigerant, air will enter the line.

In order to independently start the refrigerant into the system, it is required, using a hex key, to slowly open the valve located on the liquid valve. After filling the line with refrigerant, you can unscrew the hose connected to the service port located on the gas valve.

Attention! When the hose is disconnected, freon can be released, which can freeze your hands and damage your eyes. Wearing goggles and gloves is recommended. The face must be kept away from the fitting.

It is necessary to unscrew the fitting from the valve as quickly as possible in order to reduce the loss of freon. Do not be afraid of loud hissing. The nut may become covered with frost when the refrigerant exits. Do not touch it without gloves, so as not to get burned.

All leak test connections can be soaped. After checking, tighten all the plugs on the valves of the valves, not applying much force, but well enough. If you twist them weakly, then it is possible that in the winter period freon leak.

After you are convinced of the tightness of the line, turn on the split system for a while, then check all connections again. At this stage, the installation of the wall-mounted air conditioner is considered complete.

Do you need permission

People often ask if a permit is needed to install a split system, and can it be installed without the consent of the authorities? Based on practice, permission to install an air conditioner is not required. An exception may be cases when it is necessary to coordinate the installation of climate equipment with the authorities, in buildings that are architectural monuments or having historical, aesthetic value. In other cases, approval for the installation of climate equipment is not required.

Even a two-year-old child can install the air conditioner on their own. Joke. Installing an air conditioner is a job for many hours for two professionals with special equipment. That is why there is not a single sensible instruction on installing an air conditioner on the Internet. And I decided to write it myself. I must say right away: I categorically do not advise you to install the air conditioner on your own according to this instruction. But just to get acquainted and understand the work of professionals, it is the very thing.

at first brief theory: what is an air conditioner and how does it work?

An air conditioner is a box in which refrigerant gas runs through the tubes. The air conditioner consists of two parts - heating and cooling. The compressor compresses the gas into a liquid state, and in doing so, heat is released. This heat from the compressor is dissipated by a fan. And the liquid gas enters the grate, where it is more spacious - from this it evaporates (but not outward, but simply into a gaseous state), and the grate cools, and the air that is driven through it becomes cold. In order to cool a room, heat must go outside and cold must go inside.

The best choice for a home is a split system: an air conditioner in which both parts are separate, connected by a wire and two pipes, liquid freon gives off cold on a thin one, gaseous freon carries heat on a thick one. This closed loop is called the word "track". At the same time, one must understand that there is no air exchange between the two blocks - only freon in the pipes runs along the highway.

The outdoor unit contains the compressor itself (a little noisy thing) and a grill that dissipates heat with a fan. The indoor unit houses the control electronics and the cooling grill with its long, narrow fan. Unlike floor and window air conditioners, where both units are assembled in a single housing, a split system requires a qualified installation, because the track is mounted here.

Freon is used as a refrigerant in air conditioners (mixed with oil, which prevents compressor wear). In all cheap models (and we will talk about them), there has always been, is and will be freon type R22, despite the fact that it has allegedly been banned in Europe under the pretext that it allegedly destroys the ozone layer. In fact, our freon to the ozone layer is like a hamster farted into the sea, and the problem of freon R22 is that with simple processing it easily turns into a military poison gas. But we will not do this - we will just hang the air conditioner.

It is best to buy a Daikin split system and order branded installation and service. But we don’t have that kind of money and never will, so we buy LG, Samsung or Panasonic on the Internet for 9-14 thousand rubles. In the name of the air conditioner, its power is encrypted:

We see 07 - it means it is a "seven", it consumes 700W, the cold power is 2000W, it is installed in a room up to 20m 2. If 09 is a nine, 900W, the cold power is 2500W. There are 12 more - perhaps the limit for an apartment. By the way, putting a separate air conditioner in each room is cheaper than a single multi-split. I have a “seven” in a small room, now a “nine” in a large one.

What do we need from tools and accessories?

1. Industrial perforator with a drill with a diameter of 40mm. But you can get by with just a professional SDS + with a power of at least 750W (in the picture Metabo 1100W) - then you will have to drill not one big hole, but two or three 22mm holes. Drills needed: 6mm by 6cm (attach the indoor unit and box), 12mm by 18-20cm (attach the brackets of the outdoor unit), as well as a long drill 22mm long enough to go through the outer wall. knife, screwdriver, wrenches, level and a lot more:

2. Vacuum pump. It costs from $ 200 - weak. A professional one is like this:

3. Rolling - from 400 rubles. Be extremely careful, work with the tube down and clean the cut if the rolling cone is not polished! Such rolling will cut small chips, which will eventually kill the compressor! A good roll is like this:

4. Pipe cutter - from 200 rubles. Do not cut copper pipes with a hacksaw! Rough edges will give poor flaring, and trapped chips will eventually kill the compressor.

5. Finished with the tools, now the accessories. You need a set of two brackets for installing the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, designed for a weight of 60kg or more. Ordinary brackets and corners from household stores are not suitable! You need special brackets for the air conditioner. Usually a set costs from 250 rubles, but now in Moscow you can’t get them at all:

6. Next - something that, alas, cannot be bought on ordinary construction markets. Copper tubes for the track. They are different diameter. For air conditioners of power 7 and 9, these are 1/4 and 3/8 inch tubes. Power 12 and above - there are already other diameters. The tubes should be made of soft oxygen-free copper - they are sold only in firms selling equipment for air conditioners. It is impossible to buy copper water pipes - there is not the same copper, it is hard, it does not flare well and will not give an airtight connection. Normally, if the length of the track is no more than 5 meters. It is possible to store and transport the tubes only when the ends are closed with plugs or electrical tape so that not the slightest dust gets in. You also need special spongy thermal insulation for the tubes so that condensation does not accumulate on them. It is sold in pieces of 2 meters - separately for a thin and thick tube:

7. But what you can buy at construction fairs. Dowels 6mm (fix the indoor unit and the box). Anchor bolts not less than 12x180 4 pieces - put external brackets so that they do not break. A four-core wire (four!) For connecting the indoor and outdoor units, the core diameter is 2 or even 2.5. Might need to buy power cord with a plug - many air conditioners come with a short stub of the network cable, which you will have to grow yourself to plug it into the outlet (by the way, make sure that the wiring can withstand such power: the air conditioner is of course weaker than an iron, but it works for a long time and without supervision). You will also need a plastic box for the route inside the apartment (if you do not want to ditch the wall) - 60x80mm. Plastic tube for drainage. And aluminum tape - wrap the outer pipes:

Air conditioner device: ports

As you may have guessed, the main device is the outdoor unit. There is a compressor there. There, freon is pumped at the factory - its amount is enough to fill the track up to 5 meters. On the right side of the outdoor unit (when viewed from the street) are the ports. Here they are:

Let's number them and analyze them in more detail:

Nuts 1 and 2 - route pipes are connected here. Thin - to the upper port 1, thick - to the lower 2. Connections in the gas business are made using brass nuts with a 45 degree cone, which firmly press the end of the copper tube, flared like a funnel (for this you need a rolling tool). No gaskets are used - a properly tightened nut (with a force of 70-80 kg) presses the copper so tightly against the cone that a complete joint and diffusion of metals occurs. There are now plugs in the nuts (copper liners shine in the holes in the picture, but there are also plastic ones). It makes sense to loosen these nuts a little - after installing the block outside the window, this will be more difficult to do. But do not turn them away and do not remove the plugs: everything must be clean here.

Plug nuts 3 and 4 cover the control valves, they can be removed until:

Under them is a control valve for a hex key. It opens the port and launches freon into the system. When the time comes, we'll stick a hex key in there and open the ports. For now, just consider:

And we will select a suitable hex key for now:

Finally, the number 5 marks the thing sticking out on the lower port opposite the track - this is the filling port. Until the control valve is turned, it is he who is included in the route. The filling port is equipped with a spool - actually a car nipple. They are connected here when refueling the air conditioner and for measuring pressure. And during installation, a vacuum pump is connected here to pump air out of the route (at the same time, the hose head presses the spool, of course):

Electrician

We get acquainted with the electrical compartment (above the ports). We unscrew, consider - so that you don’t have to do it by touch later:

The indoor and outdoor units are connected, as we said, with a four-wire wire. Panasonic, in addition, uses one more additional wire - it comes with a 5-meter length. Outdoor unit terminals:

The indoor unit has the same terminals, unscrew the plastic shield on it under the outer cover:

Installing the indoor unit

It makes sense to put the block closer to the outer wall so as not to pull the track around the room for a long time. And, if there is a choice, it makes sense to put it on the left wall, because the tubes at the indoor unit come out on the right, they are forty centimeters long, and it is more convenient to mount them behind the case, and not inside. Almost all household air conditioners have an air intake grill on top, so it is supposed to lower its top by 20-30 cm from the ceiling so that the air can move freely.

Gently pressing the plastic latches, we take out the metal mounting frame and fasten it to the wall, first on one upper dowel, in order to align it later:

Then we take the level and set the frame strictly horizontally, mark the remaining holes along the edges. In total, we will have 5-7 pieces, it is especially important that the lower part of the frame does not walk, because there are latches:

So, we roughly know where our air conditioner will be. We apply it to the frame (without snapping it) and see where the box will go. First you need to break out the plastic plug from this side. Important: the box should be let in at a slope, because drainage will go through it - a plastic corrugation, through which condensate will constantly flow out, constantly forming on the cooling grates. At the same time, a large slope is bad, dust will not be washed off. Approximately 5mm by half a meter - this is the correct slope of the box. We cut off the desired piece of the box, mark it. And now we see where the holes should be drilled outward.

drilling

Drilling holes outward is the most blunt, complex, messy and time-consuming process. As we have already said, it is best to use an industrial puncher - it even goes through iron fittings, making one big hole. As a last resort, the puncher should just be a professional SDS +, which any self-respecting man has at home. In this case, there should be two holes - a drainage pipe will go to the bottom (it should be let in below the others!), Copper tubes and an electrical wire will go to the top (Panasonic has two wires, so even three holes will have to be drilled). It must be remembered that heating pipes and wiring sometimes pass through the wall, getting into them is a nightmare. Drilling should also be at an angle - better, if even steeper than that of the box. Finally, everything is ready and you can start dragging. Inside:

And outside:

We drag communications:

Insurance

Installing an air conditioner is a terrible sight. Usually one installer leans far out of the window, and the second one holds him by the legs. Therefore, it is best to buy a hefty hook, screw it from the outside into the wall and skip the rope with a carabiner, which is tied around the waist. So calmer

Outdoor unit installation

We put the outer brackets: leaning out, we mark the holes for one of them. Drilling. We put the first one. We set the second level by level and hang it on correct distance(having previously measured the width of the paws of the block). Normally, if the block is located under the window, top flush with the window sill, not lower - so it is convenient to mount it and it is not too difficult to mount the track. When the brackets are ready, we put the block. We put together, carefully, it is heavy, and unevenly - on the side where the compressor is. We tie it so as not to drop it:

We put it on the brackets and quickly screw it on before it drops. It is difficult to screw - you have to stick out far to push the bolts under the bottom of the bracket and tighten the nuts from above. Bolts are 8mm, washers on both sides. If the paws are equipped with rubber nozzles, like the new Samsung ones, the length of the bolt is 4 centimeters, if there are no rubber bands, it can be shorter.

So we put both of our copper tubes through the same hole. It is normal that they will go side by side without insulation inside the concrete - in the indoor unit (you have already dismantled and examined it) they also both come out under the same insulation. But throughout the rest of the route, thermal insulation is needed! Put it on immediately, tightly rewind the joints with electrical tape.

Now our task is to collect the track. Connect the indoor unit first. We remove the cap or electrical tape from the tubes, make sure that the edge is even and without burrs. If necessary, cut off a piece with a pipe cutter to get a good cut. If burrs are visible, we carefully clean it with something like a thin screwdriver, holding the tube down so that, God forbid, nothing is poured inside. In the picture, I, leaning out of the window, clean the end of the pipe with a special pipe cutter blade:

We unscrew the nuts from the short tubes coming out of the indoor unit, take out the plugs. We unscrew carefully and slowly - an ominous hiss will be heard, and gas will come from there. There is no need to be afraid: this is simple argon, they filled the indoor unit at the factory against corrosion. When it comes out, remove the plugs, unscrew the nuts. Put the nut on the tube with the correct end, after which we begin rolling.

Rolling and assembly

It depends on how correctly the tube is flared, whether the connection can hold gas long years Or the freon will leak. First, you should properly fix the pipe in the rolling. Secret knowledge: the tube should protrude exactly 2mm. More is bad, less is too. This is how a thin pipe is attached:

In the same way, thick - also 2mm:

Align the lambs so that the rolling converges evenly, without distortions. Do not pinch, so as not to crush the tube, but it should not crawl away either. We put the rolling cone and slowly begin to twist it:

You will have to apply force - especially for a thick tube. Finally, the cone will rest. The last effort - and stop, it does not go further:

Ready. A properly flared flare should have a good smooth surface and a clear, continuous rim.

Tip: Practice on scraps repeatedly first. Without skill, it will not be possible to do the right rolling the first time.

Make sure there are no crumbs, and nothing, God forbid, poured into the pipe, and no dampness got there. Then screw on the nut. Force - 70-80kg. The point is to screw it as tight as possible so that the copper is slightly flattened and pressed tightly - for centuries. But at the same time, the brass nut should not burst!

Having finished connecting the indoor unit, we start connecting the outdoor unit. Do not be afraid to unscrew the nuts there - after all, the ports are still closed. Mounting external pipes is much more difficult, because you have to do everything on weight, leaning out of the window and trying not to drop the tools:

vacuuming

So, the route is assembled. It's time to vacuum. Without opening the ports, we connect the vacuum pump hose to the filling port and evacuate:

It is believed that vacuuming must be carried out for 15 or 30 minutes so that all the moisture that is inevitably present in the air comes out. It does not depend much on the power of the pump. The pump, which is in the picture, puts the arrow all the way in a minute, and then there is no effect, it only heats up. But the last remnants of moisture are drawn out during this time. This is how the arrow laid to the stop looks like (in the zero state it was higher - where the blue stripe starts):

By the way, this is how it should be. correct pressure freon (this master at the same time checked my old air conditioner):

And by the way, real master takes with him, just in case, a cylinder with freon - you never know what:

So, the track is evacuated. Close the pump valve, then turn it off. And we are waiting. It is necessary to remember the position of the arrow to the nearest micron and wait at least 15 minutes. They say that it happens that after turning off the pump, the arrow will swing back a little, but immediately stop. If further during these 15 minutes the arrow crept further and further to the zero mark, it means that the track was assembled incorrectly, and there is a leak in it!

If the arrow stands like a bayonet, then everything is fine with the track, and you can start the system. This is one of the advantages of the vacuum pump, it is able to show if the line is working before we do the irreparable: open the ports and fill the system with freon. The main point of vacuuming is to remove from the track not so much air as moisture. She is the biggest enemy of the compressor.

Start order

Without disconnecting the pump hose, insert the hex wrench into the control valve of the lower port (where the thick tube is) and carefully turn it all the way. A quiet sigh will sweep through the entire system - it can be heard even in the depths of the indoor unit. Freon filled the track. And the filling port is now locked - the pump can be turned off. Unscrew the hose carefully and quickly, and preferably with gloves: a little ice-cold freon vapor with oil may escape from there. Do not forget to open the second port - near the thin tube.

All. The track is ready. By this time you should have already mounted electrical part by connecting the 4-wire wire without confusing the contacts. And now you can turn on the air conditioner. No special witchcraft, settings and tests are required - we just plug it into a power outlet and start it from the remote control. We set the low temperature and the cooling mode “cool” (not “heat”!), And after a while (Panasonic - almost immediately, Samsung - after a few minutes) the outdoor unit will work, and cold will come from the indoor unit.

Latest improvements

Nowhere the pipes of the route should be exposed! Even during installation, we put thermal insulation on them and rewound joints or cuts with electrical tape. Holes in the wall should also be carefully hammered with pieces of thermal insulation or foamed with mounting foam. We carefully wrap the outer pipes together with the wire without gaps with aluminum tape - it reflects the rays of the sun well and is generally beautiful. A well-rewound track is a relatively strong thing, but in order for the pipes not to dangle from the wind outside the window, you may need to drive in dowels or hooks and wind them with strong wire.

Finally, you need to "spill" the system. We collect ordinary water in a bottle, open the box of the indoor unit, take out both filters so that they do not interfere, and carefully pour water from above in a thin stream - it should flow from the outside drainage pipe. This means that the drainage is working properly.

Make sure that the outer piece of drainpipe is not dripping onto the neighbor's balcony, otherwise tie it up properly. It may also be necessary to attach and move aside a piece of the drain pipe from the bottom of the outdoor unit (a plastic adapter is included with the air conditioner) - if the air conditioner is operating in heating mode, condensate will collect in the outdoor unit, and not in the indoor unit.

Is it possible to do without a vacuum pump?

Can. But this is very bad. All instructions strictly order to evacuate the track. There is an opinion that with a track length of less than 5 meters, sometimes, in dry weather and with great experience, you can do without a vacuum pump. In this case, the route is assembled as usual, but the nut of the narrow pipe is slightly loosened, and the port on the wide pipe opens slowly. The mixture of freon and oil filling the system squeezes out the air. It is important here to catch the moment when the freon goes, and quickly tighten the nut. In principle, it is difficult to make a mistake: an underturned nut will cool, hiss and begin to spit oil and steam. In any case, you will not have a guarantee that the track is airtight.

So is it possible to do all this yourself?

Can. But only if you got the air conditioner on sale for $ 100, and it’s not a pity to ruin it. In this profession there is a huge amount of knowledge and requires great experience. In this article, I told only what I learned from the wise master engineer Sasha for the couple of times that I helped him install air conditioners. Sasha, thank you again for this experience and explanations!

Additions and comments are welcome.