Cable passages through walls and ceilings. The places where cables pass through ceilings, walls, fire-resistant partitions in cable tunnels must be carefully sealed with non-combustible material, while sealing is also performed around the cables passing through the nozzles. This is one of necessary measures, preventing the spread of fires in cable networks and the penetration of water into the building through pipes.
Normalized distances. The PUE defines the smallest allowable distances between the cable being laid and other cables, building foundations, green spaces, pipelines with flammable liquid, heat pipelines, communication cables, electrified and non-electrified railways, tram rails, both when they are parallel and at intersections with them . The PUE also provides for protection measures when approaching these devices.
These limits are set in order to create normal conditions for the operation of cables and to minimize the harmful effects of any kind of devices on the cable. If we are talking about pipelines, then the minimum allowable convergence during parallel laying of 1 m is necessary so that the cable is not damaged during excavations related to the repair of the pipeline. For the heat pipe, the specified convergence is 2 m to minimize the detrimental effect of the heat generated by the heat pipe on the cooling conditions of the cable. Tram, electrified railways, subway lines are a source of propagation of stray currents in the ground, which, in the absence of proper protection, have a destructive effect on the armor and metal sheath of the cable. Therefore, the permissible approach to such structures is already 10 m, or, if this distance needs to be reduced, the cables are laid in insulating pipes (for example, asbestos-cement, impregnated with tar or bitumen). Thus, each approach and intersection restriction has its own justification and must be observed when laying cables.
Industrial preparation of cables. AT recent times developed and implemented in a number of installation organizations a method of pre-cutting in the workshops of measured segments armored cables. On the technological mechanized line, the cable is rewound from the factory drum to a special inventory drum with the required length measured on the cable meter; cable cutting and installation of terminations and couplings. The prepared sections of cables are tested with increased voltage, the cable cores are marked and colored, and the cable in the inventory drum is delivered to the facility for laying on the prepared route.
The main element of the technological line is an inventory cable drum with an electric drive, as well as a counting device, with the help of which the process of measuring and rewinding cables is mechanized. The inventory drum consists of a welded frame, inside of which a rotating drum is placed. On the side cheeks of the rotating drum, structures are provided for fastening couplings and end fittings. The electric drive is connected to the drum by a hinged shaft. Measuring device with a counter type SK-1 consists of a frame and a movable stand. Guide rollers and a copper disk connected to the cable meter are installed on the frame. The measuring disc, moving transversely on the guide studs, ensures the laying of the cable coil to coil. The lifting of the drum with the cable is carried out with a cable jack. Other assembly operations are also mechanized at the stand: rounding of sector cores, crimping of lugs and sleeves (PGEP press), welding and soldering with propane-butane torches, cable cutting with a stationary cable knife with a manual drive, marking of plastic tags with a special device, etc.
Industrial harvesting of cables reduces cable waste and overall labor costs, reduces installation time and improves the quality of installation of cable glands and terminations.
6.5 In places where openly laid and protected cables pass through building construction, cable penetrations should be provided with a fire resistance limit not lower than the fire resistance limit of these structures (Article 82 TR), providing the required smoke and gas tightness (clause 37 of PPB 01-03) and corresponding to the requirements of GOST R 50571.15 and 2.1 PUE.To do this, in places where pipes with cables pass:
- through fire walls, ceilings and partitions with a rated fire resistance limit or their exit to the outside in rooms with a normal environment, lay electric circuits in pipe sections for electrical wiring, smooth, made of PVC D = 25 (clause 3.18 of SNiP 3.05.06-85 * ). Seal gaps between cables and pipe cable glands for pvc pipes. Sealing should be done on each side of the pipe;
- through building structures with a non-standardized fire resistance limit, lay electric circuits in pipes corrugated pvc d=16. Seal the gaps between the cables and the pipe with TFLEX plugs.
Through combustible walls and partitions - in steel pipes (clause 3.18 of SNiP 3.05.06)
When passing through floors, the cable at the passage point is protected from mechanical damage by casings or boxes to a height of 2 m from the floor.
- for the passage of single cables through the walls between industrial premises with an explosive zone class - 2 (according to TRoTPB) and V-1a (according to PUE) and rooms with a normal environment, use steel water and gas pipes according to GOST 3262-75 and pipe cable glands, installed from the side of the room with an explosive zone of more than high class. The gaps between pipes and cables must be sealed with asbestos cord SHAON - 3.0 (according to GOST 1779-83) to a depth of 100-200 mm from the end of the pipe, with a total thickness that ensures fire resistance of building structures. See sheet 16 of the RF project for the execution of single cable penetrations.
--for cable assembly to pass through walls industrial premises with a class of explosive zone - 2 (according to TRoTPB) and V-1a (according to PUE), use mortar universal cable penetrations designed for fire protection of passageways cable lines and consisting of:
- sealing flame retardant composition Formula KP - for sealing cable passage points;
- flame retardant composition Phoenix CE - for additional fire retardant treatment of cables;
- embedded parts - straight all-metal perforated tray LM 500x50.
Installation of cable penetrations must be carried out in accordance with the requirements technological regulations TRP-10/06 and "Recommendations for the installation and operation of cable fire penetrations type KP" (R5.04.067.10) RUE "Stroytekhnorm".
The sealing of the places where pipes pass through building structures must be made with fireproof materials ( mortar, cement with sand by volume 1:10, clay with sand - 1:3, clay with cement and sand - 1.5:1:11, expanded perlite with building gypsum - 1:2 or other non-combustible materials) over the entire thickness of the wall or partitions immediately after laying cables or pipes (SNiP 3.05.06-85, clause 3.65). Gaps in passages through walls may not be sealed if these walls are not fire barriers.
- cable entry from trenches into buildings is carried out through sections of concrete, reinforced concrete or asbestos-cement pipes or through holes in reinforced concrete structures.
- the ends of the pipes should protrude beyond the walls of the building into the trench by at least 0.6 m (Fig. 1). When removing cables from the ground and climbing the wall, they are protected from mechanical damage by a pipe, angle, channel or box to a height of 2 m (Fig. 2).
- passages through wooden walls and partitions are made in segments of steel or asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm, protruding on both sides of the wall or ceiling by 50 mm, or through a fireproof seal measuring 150x150 mm.
When laying any communications, cable penetrations must be constructed - products, prefabricated structures that are designed for the passage of cables, pipelines, communication lines through walls and partitions. Their main purpose is to prevent the spread of fire to neighboring rooms through flammable materials. They are arranged on the basis of SP 2.13130.2009 and GOST R 53310-2009. Their installation is mandatory and regulated by Federal Laws.
Fire compartments and cable penetrations
According to the requirements for the construction of buildings residential buildings they are divided into fire compartments, which block fire and smoke on their territory, do not allow them to spread outside the compartment. However, engineering lines pass through any room, which violate the integrity and tightness of the fire section. In order to maintain the limits of fire resistance of the structure and penetration.
A vivid example that proves the need to install such structures is the fire at the Ostankino television tower in 2000. Here, the telecommunications lines were placed in a vertical shaft, without breaking it into fire compartments and laying protective passages. As a result, the fire quickly spread throughout the building.
Design of cable penetrations
The simplest cable penetration is a metal sleeve embedded in a wall or partition. A cable passes through the sleeve, a pipeline, the outer diameter of which is slightly smaller than the diameter fireproof construction. The gap between the communication line and the inner wall of the sleeve is filled with tow, soaked through with fat. That is why the simplest cable penetrations are also called glands. Also, asbestos, rubberized rings, special packings can be used together or instead of tow.
At industrial facilities and power plants, several other structures are arranged. They are two ends of which are connected by sleeves. To seal the gap between communications and internal walls, special diaphragms and washers are used. One such cable penetration is used to pass several engineering lines.
Termination materials
To create the possibility of laying an additional or replacing an old engineering line, all and other communications pass through the walls in boxes or scraps metal pipes(sleeves). Therefore, the sealing of cable penetrations must be made of a fire-resistant, water-, gas-tight material that is easy to remove.
At the same time, the ability to resist fire at the seal should not be lower than the fire-resistant ability of the wall.
SNiP 3.05.06-85 indicates specific mixtures that are allowed to fill the gap between the cable and the penetration:
- cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1:10;
- composition of clay and sand with a ratio of materials 1:3;
- sealing mass of clay, sand and cement (1.5:11:1);
- gypsum and taken in a ratio of 2: 1;
- other materials that meet fire safety requirements.
It is also allowed to close cable penetrations construction foam if it is certified in accordance with the requirements of GOST R 53310-2009. Gaps in walls may not be filled if partitions are not fire barriers.
Modular penetrations
AT modern construction modular penetrations are used to isolate fire compartments. They are steel or plastic frames that are equipped with blind inserts or modules with holes. To protect against electromagnetic radiation, copper gaskets are installed. Tightness is created by tension bolts.
AT general view fire-fighting modular cable penetrations are complex structure assembled on site from prefabricated flame retardant polymer sealing inserts. Elements made of galvanized high-grade steel are used as fasteners.
In such a penetration, the cable is placed in a special sealing module and, for increased tightness, is crimped with an adapter. When tightening the tension bolts, the sealing inserts are compressed, tightly crimping the cable and ensuring gas and water tightness of the penetration.
Features of installation of cable penetrations
Installation of penetrations has its own characteristics, which depend on the type of material load-bearing structure. So, when laying cable systems in monolithic concrete buildings, fire-retardant structures are laid directly into the formwork before pouring. concrete mix. During the construction of prefabricated-monolithic type buildings, penetrations are laid in blocks at the factory during their manufacture.
In brick houses for laying, cable systems are placed in special channels - strobes. In finished monolithic structures, small holes are drilled with a diamond drill. The penetration diameter is calculated separately. During construction or temporary operation of buildings, penetrations are made of special fire-retardant cushions.
Cable penetration test
Depending on the place of operation, cable penetrations must meet established requirements. So, when they are laid down at nuclear power plants, they must be tested for their ability to absorb, isolate or reflect radiation.
On regular construction sites universal cable penetration is tested by heating, force (mainly bending resistance), as well as fire resistance, water and gas insulating properties.
Light, heat, work of engineering and household equipment - everything is tied to electricity. Therefore, the level of comfort depends entirely on uninterrupted and, importantly, - safe work electrical networks. Any defect or error made during the installation of electrical equipment and electrical wiring, can lead to sad consequences - fires or fires.
The topic is especially relevant correct installation electrical wiring for wooden houses, because due to discrepancies in the interpretation of the PUE (Electrical Installation Rules) and the SP (Set of Rules), confusion and a lot of disputes arise. Therefore, in this article we will answer the following questions:
- What are basic principles installation of electrical wiring in wooden house.
- How is electrical wiring installed in a wooden house in accordance with the rules of the PUE and SP.
- Technical features installation of hidden electrical wiring.
Proper wiring in a wooden house
Wood is a building material with a long history. From it they build as small guest houses and large cottages. With all the advantages of both log and frame houses, which are based on wooden racks, many believe that such buildings have an increased fire hazard. But one important point is missing.
Regardless of what the house is built of - brick, aerated concrete, timber or rounded logs, it burns first of all cushioned furniture, curtains, curtains, interior items, Appliances etc. Those. - "stuffing" of the house, made of combustible materials.
In a stone house, the electrical wiring going from the switchboard to the consumers is mounted in fireproof material (the cable is laid in strobes, which are then sealed and plastered, etc.).
In this case, the developer faces a difficult choice - the wiring in a wooden house can be outdoor , the cable can be run inside the wooden walls or between the studs of the frame.
How to lay a cable in a wooden house.
Consider all these ways of laying wires in a wooden house. If in the first case the electrical wiring is visible, which affects the speed of detecting an emergency situation (cable overheating, etc.), then in the second case it is hidden behind the lining or in solid wood. Accordingly, what happens to the cable is not clear. Hence the developer's fears and doubts: “What if something happens to the electrical wiring? Will it light up or not?
Practice shows that the “weak” point in the power grid is not the cable itself (we do not consider cases flagrant violation installation, the use of a cable with an underestimated section, on which a large load was “hung”, “twisting” on electrical tape on the route to splice the cable), and the connection points are junction boxes, leads for connecting consumers, i.e. sockets, switches, etc.
Modern power cables, with the abbreviation VVGng, etc., do not support combustion.
There is constant debate about where it is safer to run the cable - outside or inside the walls, is it permissible open wiring in a wooden house. There is an opinion that if we lay the wiring along the wall, this will give us time to see and respond to an emergency and accept the right decision how to proceed. Put out the fire or evacuate.
Simply put, to smell the smoke immediately, and not later, when the flame has already spread to the structural elements. If the wiring is mounted in the wall, even in a steel pipe, then this may not save you from a fire either.
Semik FORUMHOUSE user
I can refer to my experience as a firefighter and the experience of an electrician in an emergency gang. Steel pipes are more needed for mechanical protection of wiring from the "fool", the teeth of rats, which can even gnaw through a metal hose and damage the cable. I have seen more than once how a steel pipe, with wiring shorted inside, was red-hot. Happen like this in wooden wall and fire is inevitable.
According to the user, the first thing to think about when installing electrical wiring is the competent calculation of all cable sections and the choice of electrical equipment for protection. That is, figuratively speaking, it makes no sense to install a 100 A circuit breaker on a wire with a cross section of 0.75 square meters. mm with a distance to the consumer in kilometers.
Hence the safe electrical network is a balanced system, where each element, starting from circuit breakers and ending with the cross section and length of the cable, as well as end user matched to each other. Hoping that by stretching the cable through a metal pipe in a conditional wooden wall, we have already protected ourselves from fire is a delusion. The rules for laying cables in a wooden house are a rather vague thing, so far we have solved only a part challenging task, which will be discussed below.
PUE and SP: standards and rules for installing electrical wiring in wooden and frame houses
Once again, we repeat what we left outside the scope of this article. outdoor installation electrical wiring in cable channels. We also do not consider the so-called. retro wiring. This option, both in design and in terms of financial component, is not suitable for everyone.
Therefore, we set the task - it is necessary to mount a hidden electrical wiring in a wooden or frame house in a safe and regulated way.
Which wire to use for wooden house
It seems that everything is simple - you need to open the PUE (seventh edition of 07/08/2002) and read paragraph 7.1.38, which says:
Electrical networks laid behind impassable suspended ceilings and in partitions are considered as hidden wiring, and they should be done: behind ceilings and in the voids of partitions made of combustible materials in metal pipes, having the ability to localize, and in closed boxes; behind ceilings and in partitions made of non-combustible materials - pipes and ducts made of non-combustible materials, as well as cables that do not spread combustion. It must be possible to replace wires and cables.
Now we are opening a document for frame builders, namely SP 31-105-2002 “Design and construction of energy-efficient single-family residential buildings with wooden frame". We read paragraph 13.5.1:
Wiring should be arranged by passing cables (sheathed wires) through voids or spaces filled with insulation inside the walls and ceilings of the house, as well as through holes in wooden elements wall and floor framing. Pass such cables and wires through the structure of the house it is allowed to arrange without the use of bushings and tubes.
And paragraph 13.5.2:
For wiring should be used insulated wires in protective shells or cables sheathed in flame retardant materials.
- A cable is two or more insulated conductors joined together and covered with insulation.
- A wire is a solid or stranded conductor with or without insulation.
Cable for wiring in a wooden house.
Accordingly: due to inconsistencies in the PUE with the joint venture and the vagueness of the wording in the PUE, many users have a question - how to properly install electrical wiring for combustible materials. As prescribed in the PUE - laying it in a steel pipe. Or as it is written in the joint venture - using a cable that does not spread combustion, without additional protective sheaths. On this basis, there is a lot of controversy.
Vitalik1985 FORUMHOUSE user
I think that laying cables in steel pipes- this is a redundant solution. The probability that the cable will break through is scanty, fires often occur due to a spark in the outlet. It is better to pay more attention to circuit breakers, connections, terminal box, switches, etc.
Danil117 FORUMHOUSE user
It must be done in such a way as to eliminate the very possibility of a wire fire. Choose correct section cables, we select high-quality machines. That is, we do not hope that a steel pipe is a panacea for ignition and fire.
We will also consider opposing views.
Sollara FORUMHOUSE user
I think that wires for a wooden house should be in a metal pipe with localization ability. If a wire catches fire, it will burn inside. If it is shorted out, the arc will not burn through the pipe. We put metal junction boxes connected to the pipe.
A steel pipe for electrical wiring in a wooden house must be grounded.
Also interesting is the opinion of the user of the portal with the nickname Ivanov Kostya.
By laying a cable in a metal pipe, we solve two problems: we protect the cable from possible mechanical damage and protect the tree from possible ignition of the cable.
Moreover, the first point is of key importance in relation to our construction conditions. Workers can, while mounting drywall or drilling something, pierce an unprotected cable with a self-tapping screw or a nail. The cable insulation can be damaged by a sharp edge metal profile. The cable can be gnawed (as an option) by rats or mice. In addition, the accumulation of wood dust during a spark or insulation breakdown can lead to a rapid spread of flames inside the walls.
It seems that such a solution is redundant, but in this way we protect the cable from force majeure, including the common situation: “forgot where the cable goes in the wall, hung a shelf / picture and damaged it.”
Although, in order to avoid such situations, we do not lay the cable as we have to, but along strictly defined and marked cable routes, if necessary, taking photographs with an attached tape measure.
Is corrugation acceptable for electrical wiring in a wooden house
From the foregoing, it becomes clear that part FORUMHOUSE users believes that electrical cable in wooden houses with hidden wiring should be only in metal pipes. Let's emphasize - in steel pipes, and not in a metal hose, plastic self-extinguishing corrugation or steel corrugated pipe.
Corrugation for wires in a wooden house with hidden wiring is not good!
Arc short circuit ( short circuit) burns through a steel corrugated pipe, and plastic corrugation, due to fragility, will not save the wiring from mechanical damage.
Others believe that it is a metal pipe for electrical wiring in a wooden house that is redundant and rely on foreign experience, which fully allows a cable in a log. In a classic frame using North American technology, an electric cable is pulled straight through wooden racks, in drilled technological holes, without corrugations, metal pipes, etc.
In the "Finnish" version of the frame, the electric cable is usually pulled in the inner layer of counter-insulation embedded in a wooden counter-lattice.
It seems that the technology is available for repetition, because it has stood the test of time, but, as you know, the essence lies in the details.
“Across the ocean”, grounding is necessarily done, and double - one goes to the street line, to the shield, the second is independent, connected either to copper pins driven into the ground, or to the central water pipe. Plus, there is also a “zero” bus, and each line and electrical appliance (sockets, lamps, etc.) has its own independent grounding.
Roracotta Member of FORUMHOUSE
4 thick cables go to the house underground to the meter. Earth, zero and two phases. In addition to this ground on the cable, the central board itself and the meter must be grounded by a separate ground or at copper pipe when entering the house, or two 16 mm copper pins 2 meters long, or a special copper plate buried in the ground to a depth of about a meter.
In a three-core "foreign" cable copper wire- "earth", goes without a braid. This ensures the operation of the RCD at the slightest damage to the insulation of the wires "zero" and "phase" throughout the route. While in our country the ground wire is insulated and provides protection only to end users.
Roracotta
In Canada, a rule has been introduced - all lines that feed sleeping rooms must be equipped with special machines that are sensitive to sparks on the consumer (plug, socket, etc.). If a spark jumps somewhere, the machine knocks out. It's expensive, but it needs to be done.
And this is only part of the nuances that ensure electrical safety. Having decided to run a cable in a steel pipe in houses built of timber, we remember that a tree shrinks over time. Moreover, depending on the humidity source material, this value can be significant. This means that it is necessary to think in advance how to ensure the necessary movement / independence of the steel pipe with the cable so that the beam does not “hang” on it in 2-3 years.
Condensation may form in the steel pipe, and moisture may enter the socket or junction box due to the slope of the route. Another one " headache» - how to lead tracks in wooden houses of a large area. One thing to lay steel pipes in wooden cottage for 100-150 sq. m, but a completely different task in complexity - in houses of 300-500 sq. m. In addition to increasing the estimate, special requirements are imposed on the qualifications of workers involved in the installation of electrical wiring in steel pipes.
Therefore, examples of the practical implementation of wiring cables in metal pipes are interesting.
Ivanov Kostya Member of FORUMHOUSE
I installed the wiring in hardwood floor attic floor, in steel square tube 15x15 mm, VVGng cable with a section of 3x2.5. Turns and branching - a metal hose with a diameter of 20 mm, it is well pushed onto the pipe.
A square tube is more convenient to install than a round one.
Installation of wiring in a timber house
Also interested in wiring in a wooden house , performed by a user with a nickname Serg177. To do this, he bought a pipe 15x15 mm 300 meters long and a metal corrugation with a diameter of 2 cm, as well as staples (they are used to fasten corrugations with a diameter of 1.5 cm) to fix pipes on the walls. Next, we carry out the installation of wiring, not forgetting to pre-clean the edges of the pipes from burrs!
In the installation of electrical wiring of an apartment and a house, it is impossible to avoid work on arranging the passage of a cable through a wall. Let's look at regulatory requirements to such works and the practice of their implementation.
But first, we note that in these works, in addition to the normative, there are organizational stage. Since from works this type(dismantling, gating, etc.) a lot of construction debris, you need to think about its disposal in advance.
For the disposal of stone waste from such works, you need to rent special garbage containers. For the disposal of rolled ferrous and non-ferrous metals, it is reasonable to look at a company that buys scrap metal, for example here https://www.metallrutorg.ru/. It will be not only convenient, but also profitable.
Norms for the passage of cable through walls
As expected, the right electrician, first we turn to regulatory documents. We begin the search for information with, electrical installation rules. You can download the PUE from the site.
In the PUE edition 7, we look at the points from 2.1.56 down. Translating an official document into everyday language, we see following rules the passage of wires and cables of electrical wiring through the walls:
- When arranging a passage, it is important to ensure the replacement of electrical wiring in case of repair or replacement (PUE, clause 2.1.58).
- If wiring is carried out with wires, then the passage of wires in the wall must be protected by a pipe, a duct, an electrical corrugated pipe.
- the wiring is carried out by cable, then the passage of the cable through the walls of dry interior spaces can be arranged in the form of an opening, without a duct or pipe.
- the cable passes through the walls of the interior with different humidity or through the wall from the street into the room, for example, entering the power supply into the house, then there are no strict recommendations in the PUE on protecting the cable in the wall passage with a pipe (sleeve). There is an indication of the need to close the gaps between the cables with non-combustible materials that can be easily removed during cable replacement work. This is necessary to close the penetration of water and moisture through the passage.
However, in practice, it is better to protect the passage of the cable through the wall of the house from the street with a pipe (sleeve) firmly fixed to the wall structure and laid with a slope to the street.
In indoor areas apartments and houses, to protect the passage of the cable through the wall, it is obligatory only in wooden houses, to enhance fire safety.
Let's sum up the first result
If in practice you need to make a cable pass through a wall in an apartment and house, you need to:
First: If possible, refuse to use wires for electrical wiring and work with cables. If this is not possible, for example, retro wiring with wires on insulators, make a passage in the wall through the sleeve.
Second: Make the cable pass through the wall so that it is easy for you to replace it yourself. This criterion will be sufficient for a correct pass.
Third: Arrange passage through the wall wisely. For example, if you are making hidden (non-replaceable) wiring, then there is no justification for using a sleeve for the passage. Except if the passage is made between two walls with an air gap.
Fourthly: protect all cable passages from the street from moisture penetration. In an apartment, these are power cables for air conditioners; in a house, this is the input of a power cable into the house or the output of a cable to buildings on the site.
How to make a cable pass through a wall in practice
Let's see the practice of work. Let's start with a hole in the wall for wiring in the apartment.
Cable passage through the wall in the apartment
The first problem that arises when drilling a hole in the wall for laying the cable is the existing wiring in the walls. When drilling, it is important not to damage the existing electrical wiring, and also not to hurt possible pipes pipeline.
Special devices or folk methods can help solve this problem. I wrote about the search for hidden wiring with devices. Folk methods I list below:
- First, if you have a radio receiver, tune it to 100 kHz and scan the wall at the location of the future hole. If there are live wires, the receiver should show a background sound.
- Secondly, take a phase determiner (probe). It will show a live wire NOT running deep in the wall.
- Thirdly, for a smartphone, there are programs like "Metall Detector".
- Fourthly, it “hears” the wire in the wall, the hearing aid is in the “phone” mode. Didn't check.
Unfortunately, the proposed technical methods find concealed wiring not always available. Therefore, we use a simple and reliable visual inspection. For this:
Look at the place of the future passage (hole) for the presence of junction boxes, sockets, switches. Never not drill through holes in the walls on the horizontal and vertical lines for the installation of boxes, sockets, switches, lamps. It is highly likely that the wiring was done according to the rules and the wiring routes were parallel to the floor and corners with standard indents from corners and slopes. About it .
Tool
To drill through holes, you will need, first of all, a puncher with a drill. The length of the drill depends on the thickness of the walls. It must be determined in advance. In the panel share it is 270-350 mm, in the "stalinka" the thickness of the walls can exceed 1 meter.
The diameter of the drill depends on the required hole and wall thickness. The thicker the wall, the larger diameter borax. A reasonable drill diameter is 25-30 mm. However, in the kit you need to have a drill of a smaller diameter of 10-16 mm, below I will explain why.
Stages of work on drilling a through hole
stone wall
Prepare the place of work: there will be a lot of garbage. Wallpaper from the wall at the drilling site, it is better to remove it. If the hole is at a height, the footing must be firm.
Start drilling with a short small diameter drill. This will reduce the crumbling of the concrete or plaster when drilling starts.
On a long drill, make a marker with electrical tape showing the thickness of the wall. He will be needed.
Continue drilling. If you have not warned the neighbors in advance, they are already ringing your doorbell. The sound from your drilling in panel house extends to the entire hallway.
Continue with careful drilling. If you feel the stop of the drill, stop immediately, it is likely that the drill will hit the rebar. The drill will not be able to drill through the panel reinforcement, so the hole must be shifted and started over.
Follow the wall thickness mark on the drill. When 5-7 cm remains to the mark, again change the thick drill (25-30 mm) to the drill 10-16 mm and, if possible, reduce the impact of the perforator.
This technique will avoid falling out of a piece of wall on the opposite side of the passage. After the passage of the drill of the entire wall, you will feel it immediately, go to adjoining room and widen the hole with a larger diameter drill.
If a hole sleeve is required, then the diameter of the pipe for the sleeve should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the hole. It is necessary to hammer the sleeve from the side of the beginning of drilling (!).
wooden wall
You need a wood drill, a simple drill and accuracy.
Drywall partition
If you need to make a cable pass through a plasterboard wall, then:
- Find a place where there are no structural profiles;
- Drill drywall sheets with a simple drill. It is 12-24mm;
- Look there is a heater in the partition;
- If there is insulation and it is soft, pass it with a thin metal rod, such as an awl, to the drywall sheets on the opposite side. Manually rotating the homemade awl, go through the sheets of the Civil Code from the opposite side;
- Expand the hole with a drill to the desired size;
- Insert a sleeve into the hole plastic pipe. In order for the pipe to pass through the insulation, sharpen the edge of the pipe with a file;
- If the insulation is hard, just drill a hole with a long drill bit.
Conclusion
The passage of the cable through the wall in the apartment and the house is quite possible to do with your own hands. The main thing to have right tool be careful and turn off the power to the apartment so as not to get hit by electric shock in case of damage to the wiring. And the puncher needs to be powered from another group or from the (apartment) shield, through the carrying.
