Different types flowers are carried winter time in my own way. Tuberous begonia tolerates winter storage more difficult than unpretentious bush begonia, so it requires special care. There are two types of begonia: bush and tuberous. Bush begonia - evergreen species plants, so it successfully overwinters in the garden.
Tuberous begonia in winter requires some conditions for a good wintering, but decorative value flowers justifies all the efforts that have to be made for this. It is necessary to store begonia tubers in winter, taking into account the characteristics of its growth. What features does this type of plant have?
Some subtleties
Tuberous begonias bloom brightly and luxuriantly - large buds resemble the blooms of peony, carnation, narcissus, camellia or rose. They will decorate even distant and darkened corners. personal plot. The flowering period lasts from early June until the first frost in mid-September. In warm living spaces, tuberous begonias can bloom from early spring to late autumn. Caring for flowers may seem too complicated, but this is only at first glance.
Since tuberous begonia belongs to hybrid plants, then she has a set different varieties, which differ in size, color, shape of petals and size of buds, height and thickness of the bush, as well as type of growth. Some large-flowered varieties reach a diameter of 30 cm. The rhizome, up to 6 cm in diameter, has a particularly thick tuberous structure. The stems are translucent, some covered with hairs.
In Russia, begonia has become popular as indoor flower, which was called the "Eagle's Nest". In the period after the war of 1812, begonias were given a second nickname - “Napoleon's Ear”. They say that it was invented because of the external similarity of the leaves of certain varieties with frostbite.
Perennial tuberous plants are divided into three types:
- double large-flowered;
- terry, or simple small-flowered;
- double, medium-flowered.
Begonias are short-day plants; To increase tubers, they are shaded from 7 pm to 10 am. For better ripening of tubers, the flowers are removed. These flowers love high humidity, and when there is a lack of water, they drop their leaves. A spacious and moist place for planting is suitable for them; add hydrogel there. The flowers are heterosexual, propagated by dividing the tuber in spring, sowing seeds under glass from January to spring, and by cuttings in spring and autumn. Once a year they need a period of rest - it lasts in winter from November to spring.
How to store begonia tubers in winter (video)
How to prepare begonia for wintering
By the end of the flowering season, the above-ground part of the plant should die off so that the tubers can actively develop in the spring. During this period, the tubers begin to accumulate nutrients, after which the resting phase begins. During dormancy, they will require even more careful care. How to preserve them so that in the future the harvest will only please you? Experts do not recommend planting them out of the ground early so that they have time to be saturated with useful microelements. This is true for large plants with developed tubers, but small ones are stored a little differently (otherwise they will dry out after the first frost).
How to keep tuberous begonia in winter:
- Dig it out of the ground (using a pitchfork) or from a pot. Under no circumstances should the soil be shaken off; it is better to have more of it left.
- Tubers are sorted by size. Small (less than 2 cm) and large tubers should be stored in separate boxes.
- In boxes, plants are stacked tightly against each other. They are stored in a dry, well-ventilated area, well lit, with a temperature of up to 14-16 °C.
- Watering must be reduced and wait until the leaves die off, and then the rest of the shoot (does not apply to first-year tubers). Drying of the shoots lasts about 30-45 days.
- Completely dried shoots are cut off, leaving a few centimeters above the ground.
- Then, after another 2 weeks, you need to free the boxes from the substrate and sprinkle them with dry peat or river sand. To prevent pathogenic fungi from multiplying on the tubers, these parts of the plant must be dry.
In addition to rot, which affects the leaves and is treated by pruning them and treating them with an antiseptic, begonia can suffer from downy mildew (which most often affects tuberous species). Downy mildew (false powdery mildew) - fungal disease who loves low temperatures and humidity. Therefore, it practically does not survive in heated soil. You can treat affected flowers with antibiotics, for example, expired ones. Warming the soil to 60 °C for about 30 minutes also works well - this will destroy the fungus without harming the plants.
How are small begonias stored?
Begonia is stored in different ways in winter (depending on the age of the plant). in winter upper part First-year begonias will remain green, but will not grow further. First-year tubers from seeds are stored in a bright, well-ventilated cellar at a temperature of 6-7 degrees Celsius. Indoor humidity - from 50%. You don’t need to stop watering completely; you can just spray it moderately about once every two to three weeks.
And if there is no cellar, how to store small tubers right at home? You can try storing small tubers not in the basement, but in the refrigerator directly in a plastic bag. Dry sawdust or moss with peat should be poured into polyethylene, which should be periodically sprayed with water.
Flowers that grow in a pot all summer in an apartment do not need to be replanted for the winter. They will bloom almost until November if they are watered moderately - once every 2 weeks. In winter, at home, tuberous begonia is cut off and taken in pots to a dark and cool room. Watering is done very rarely - so that the tubers do not dry out.
To preserve begonia in winter, you need to periodically inspect the tubers for diseases. More careful care may be required, for example, when the tubers appear small sprouts, they need to be cut off because they are harmful to the further growth flower. If you find an affected tuber, it is better to remove it so that it does not infect the others. Unfortunately, wintering does not end well for all tubers, since the weakest of them die. The main thing is not to water begonias too much - too wet a substrate causes diseases or provokes untimely appearance of buds in winter period.
Storing begonias (video)
Care after wintering
At the beginning of March, the next phase of flower growth begins: the bulb begins to sprout. Begonias will now require more intensive care: more light and water to grow quickly enough. The overwintered tuber is freed from soil and debris and transplanted into a new substrate, which is located in a box or individual pot (up to 12 cm in circumference). Deep pots are not needed, because... tuberous begonia is quite superficial root system who loves wide spaces. For germination, you need to allocate an area of at least 5x5 cm for each tuber. For successful germination, you need to press the tubers into the soil or peat with the hollow side facing the light, leaving them only half closed. The best substrate for germinating begonias in spring consists of a mixture of peat, humus and withered leaves with sand (in a ratio of 1:1:1:2).
Boxes and pots should be moved to a warm, cool room with an air temperature of 15-18 °C and a humidity of at least 50%. Uneven germination of tuberous begonia occurs over several weeks (from roots to shoots); The main thing is to protect the plant from direct sun and drafts during this period. Tuberous begonias do not like stuffy rooms, but they accept various growth stimulants very positively.
When the first leaves appear, the begonias are released from the box for planting in pots. Ash and humus must be added to the soil so that they completely cover the base of the shoots. The shoots remain in this form until the frosts end and stable spring warmth sets in (this does not apply to frost-resistant varieties). Experts recommend periodic spring hardening, which causes begonias to shed some leaves, which is the norm. After this, the begonias are seated in open ground, well loosened, with the addition of sand and drainage (but preferably without lime). The planting area for each sprout is at least 15x15 cm, for larger tubers - 30x30 cm. When planting is completed, mulch again with ash and humus.
If you do not monitor soil moisture, water stagnation may occur; most useful watering- in the morning. A humid climate best promotes lush growth and development of flowers. In open ground, spraying that causes brown spots should not be carried out. tall bushes tied so that the stem does not break from heavy weight buds.
In winter, begonia requires increased attention to yourself, but the beauty of begonia blossoms is really worth it. When begonia is not stored correctly in winter, it does not bloom well in summer. If it so happens that the flowers did not overwinter very well, then try to take these mistakes into account in the future and do not repeat them again.
Decorative deciduous, bushy and tuberous begonias, blooming beautifully and profusely, have long become a decoration of apartment interiors. With proper care, they can bloom in winter. IN lately ornamental culture migrated to garden plot and copes well with the function assigned to it - bright flowers and rich greenery transform the territory, making it bright and original. But tuberous begonia, as a heat-loving plant, needs to be dug up for the winter in order to preserve the tubers until the next season. If certain rules are followed, they are stored well and bloom profusely throughout the season.
Features of tuberous begonia
Hybrid varieties and varieties are combined under the name “Tuberous Begonia” garden perennial, which can also be grown as an indoor flower. Tuberous begonias are divided into types:
- large-flowered (7-20cm);
- medium-flowered (up to 7cm);
- small-flowered (up to 4cm);
- ampelous.
Tubers form on the stem below the root collar and above the place where the cotyledons are attached. The stem in the lower part of the shoot thickens barely noticeably when the development of the first leaves begins, then, after a few years, the thickening (tuber) reaches 5-6 cm in diameter and accumulates large number nutrients.
The tubers of young plants differ in shape - they are spherical, while in adult begonias they are flattened, angular, with powerful fibrous roots. Renewal buds are formed 3-5.
The stem is usually thickened, strong, branching, succulent, growing up to 25-30 cm. The color and shape of the leaf plate is varied. Flowers (double and non-double) are similar in shape to roses, peonies, daffodils, carnations, camellias, and can be single or grouped into inflorescences. Flowering begins in June and continues until mid-autumn.
Information! Distinctive feature is the formation of flowers of different sexes. Males can be identified by their larger size, double petals and early flowering, female flowers smaller and their petals (4-5) are smooth.
Why does begonia need to be dug up?
The natural habitat of tuberous begonias is humid tropical and subtropical regions. Heat-loving plants are characterized by a dormant period when they rest from the active phase of growth and flowering, gaining strength for the next season. If this cycle is disrupted, begonias slow down their growth, stop reproducing and lose their decorative properties.
Digging up tubers and proper storage create optimal conditions for rest and do not disturb the natural rhythms of the plant.
Reference! The dormant period lasts approximately from the end of November to the end of February.
The second reason for digging is that the structure of the tubers and stems is such that they freeze at subzero temperatures.
How to prepare tuberous begonia for winter
Before digging it must pass certain time, during which the plant will prepare as much as possible for the procedure. Already in September, it is necessary to significantly reduce the volume of watering and completely stop applying any fertilizers that activate life processes both in the tuber and in the above-ground part.
Advice! To stop the flow of excess moisture in damp autumn weather, it is recommended to build protection over the begonias, for example, stretch a film. In bad weather, without waiting for the tubers to ripen, you can dig up the bushes without cutting the stems and move them in a clod of earth to a room where they will ripen. After the bush withers, treat it in the same way as street begonias.
The buds and shoots that have just begun to grow should be removed, but the stems should not be touched, allowing them to wither naturally. Then, after the leaves fall and the stems droop, trim the above-ground part to a low stump (1cm).
In this form, the bushes last 1-2 weeks without watering or any other intervention.
Digging time
An important condition for a good wintering of tubers is their maturity - strong and ripened tubers are well stored, and in the spring they will quickly grow and bloom on time.
When to dig up begonias for the winter depends on the weather. If temperatures are around +9°-10°C, then the procedure can already be carried out. In case of unexpected frosts, bushes can be easily protected using covering material, paper. A slight decrease in temperature to sub-zero does not harm the underground part.
It is impossible to determine the dates by dates - they are different in each locality. Approximately this is the last days of October or the beginning of mid-November.
When such conditions occur, the tubers need to be dug up and placed in a vertical position in boxes or boxes for drying in a room with moderate temperature and good ventilation. There is no need to clean off the soil when digging - you just need to shake off the excess, and after drying, when it dries, it will fall off on its own.
Note! Some stems are cut off after digging - this makes it convenient to remove the bush from the ground.
Young begonias grown from seeds and growing into autumn as green seedlings should be handled differently, since their tubers have not yet formed - they need to be dug up with a clod of earth, placed in a bright and cool place for the winter and watered occasionally.
Indoor begonias, after the aerial parts have withered, are cut off and placed in a bright room with moderate temperatures until spring. The soil should be moistened 1-2 times a month.
Storage methods
Storage options depend on the number of tubers and their size. Larger and large quantities It is better to store in the basement, and small nodules in the refrigerator to avoid drying out.
Basement
After drying, the remaining soil must be removed from the tubers, being careful not to damage the skin, sorted by size and variety, and placed in cardboard (wooden) boxes or containers with small cells. Sprinkle moisture-absorbing material on top and between the layers: sand, peat, sawdust, vermiculite, moss or a mixture of equal parts thereof. Be sure to regularly inspect and remove tubers that are rotting or showing signs of disease.
Important! Due to high humidity, a cellar is not suitable for storing begonias.
Apartment
In conditions apartments will do a place near the balcony door, an insulated balcony or loggia. Small batches of tubers are stored, as in the basement, in boxes or boxes in a sand-peat mixture or in a mixture of sawdust, peat, moss.
Indoor begonias, after cutting the stems, are also stored in the apartment in a cool and bright place.
Fridge
It is convenient to store small batches of tubers or those that are too small in size in the refrigerator in bags with holes for ventilation. The nodules are sprinkled with sawdust or each one is wrapped in paper, placed in a bag and stored in a vegetable drawer.
Storage problems
In winter, the tubers also need care: they are inspected to remove diseased and dried ones, and an optimal humidity level in the room is maintained.
Possible problems:
- If the sand in the boxes is dry, it can be slightly moistened with a spray bottle, but not too wet, so as not to cause rotting of the tubers.
- If the sand is too wet and the room is warm, the tubers may germinate ahead of time. The sprouts that appear should be broken off, and the tubers should be dried and moved to a cooler place.
- When stored in the refrigerator, sprouts appear due to high humidity. The sprouts must be removed, the tubers dried, each wrapped in paper, placed in a bag with holes and placed back.
If you dig up tuberous begonia on time and store it correctly, then the life rhythms of the plant are not disturbed - in the spring it will delight you with early flowering.
In the fall, at my dacha, I transplanted all the begonia tubers from the open garden bed into boxes and put them in the basement for the winter. And in the spring, before planting, I discovered that not all the tubers survived! Not right away, but I was able to figure out where I made a mistake in storage.
And so that you do not repeat my mistakes, I decided to write in detail in this article how to properly prepare begonia for winter, in what conditions to store its tubers so that they do not die, and how to prepare them for planting in the spring. Then all your begonia tubers will survive the winter without any problems.
Begonia in a summer cottage is hard to miss - their buds are very lush and bright, something between peonies and roses. Blooms beautifully even in dark corners summer cottage, thanks to them bright colors this area does not seem gloomy and dark.
They bloom for a long time, beginning in early summer and ending at the end of September. And in the southern regions of Russia they can begin to bloom in early April and end somewhere in October.
Perennial begonia has several varieties that differ from each other not only in the shape of the petals and the height of the bush, but also have different size buds. The largest ones grow up to 40 centimeters in height.
In order for its tubers to increase in size, begonias must be given a break from light at night, so specially constructed artificial lighting not necessary for her. If the summer is hot and dry, then you need to water the begonia more often, as it is a moisture-loving plant.
If there is a lack of moisture, it will drop flowers and leaves. Before planting begonias, a hydrogel is thrown into the bottom of the hole, which accumulates water and, if necessary, releases it to the plant.
Begonia can be propagated by dividing the tuber, this is done in the spring. You can propagate by cuttings not only in spring, but also in autumn, the main thing is that there are no flowers. Some varieties are propagated by seeds.
Preparing begonias for winter
At the beginning of autumn, all the buds need to be cut off from the bushes so that the begonia has time to accumulate nutrients in its tubers before the onset of frost, and does not allocate them to the growth and development of the buds. As soon as she accumulates required quantity nutrients, it will immediately enter a resting phase, which will last until early spring.
After the buds have been cut, do not rush to dig up the begonia so that it has time to gain the mass of its tuber. In this state she will endure it without any problems. autumn frosts. But do not delay removing it until the first frost sets in. If you pull it out earlier, then in next year significantly fewer inflorescences will bloom on the bush.
And from the moment the buds are cut, you need to reduce watering so that the begonia enters the resting phase. If the weather is rainy, cover the begonia with waterproof film.
But it happens that short-term frosts suddenly set in, and you did not have time to dig up the begonia, then there is no need to worry, in this case only the foliage freezes, and the tubers remain intact.
As soon as you notice the first signs of yellowing of the foliage, you can start digging it up. It is better to do this with a pitchfork or a sharp shovel so as not to damage the roots. As soon as the tubers are dug up along with a lump of earth, do not shake off the soil from the roots.
Then sort the tubers by size. Small ones in one container, large ones in another. It is not advisable to store them together, since small ones dry out more often than large ones. The tubers are placed close to each other.
After that, the begonia shoots are cut off with pruning shears, leaving about 3 centimeters on top, and their roots are cleared of any remaining soil. Then they are taken to a dry and well-ventilated room to dry.
The air temperature should not be lower than +14 o, but not higher than +16 o degrees. Let the tubers lie in this room for about two to three weeks, until their shoots completely dry out. It is better to dry them on cotton material.
After two to three weeks they are placed in boxes with peat or dry sand for storage until spring.
May protect tubers from harmful insects and mice, does not allow roots to rot. It must be mixed with the substrate in equal proportions.
Next, the container with the tubers should be placed in a dark and wet room, where the air temperature does not exceed +10 o C. Throughout the winter, you can occasionally water the soil so that the tubers do not dry out at all. This is only if the percentage of air humidity does not exceed 70%.
After the tubers have been stored for storage, you need to periodically check them throughout the winter for fungal diseases. If you suddenly find tubers infected with fungus, then advanced case they are removed, and mildly infected ones can be cured by treatment with brilliant green.
Wintering first-year begonias
If the begonia is only one year old, then the above is not done to it, since it grew from seeds and continues to grow in winter. If you cut it off as a mature plant, it will soon die. Therefore, in this case, it is transplanted from an open garden bed into a pot, which is taken into the apartment for the whole winter.
Indoors, the pot is placed in a cool place where the temperature does not exceed +15 o C. In winter, it is recommended to water it about once a week.
Tuber storage room
The temperature of the room where begonia will be stored all winter should not exceed +10 o C. And the air in it must be humid to about 85%. It’s great if you have a basement or cellar for storing tubers; if you don’t have them, then a refrigerator will do just fine.
Not every refrigerator will fit a box with tubers, so the soil is poured into a regular bag, where the tubers are added. Then the bag needs to be pierced in some places so that air can enter it freely. After which this package is placed in the refrigerator and appearance Tubers are checked periodically throughout the winter.
If there is a lot in the refrigerator free space, then you can buy regular food containers, fill the soil there and place the tubers so that only shoots are on top.
The main thing is that the soil is absolutely dry, otherwise fungus may develop from moisture.
But small tubers, which we have previously separated from large ones, are better stored in ordinary pots with soil, since they may not tolerate much minus temperature like mature tubers. The pots are stored in a cool and dry room; if the air is very dry, the soil can be watered occasionally.
Dormancy of indoor begonia
Indoor begonia, like country begonia, also needs rest in winter, so it gains strength for flowering in the next season. But there is no need to dig it out of the soil.
You need to wait for the period when the stems begin to wither and the leaves fall off, then watering the plants is reduced significantly. After which the completely wilted stems need to be cut off and the pot removed to a dark and cool place.
During dormancy, it is not advisable to rearrange the pot with begonia throughout the room. Where they put it, let it stay there until it finally wakes up. You can't loosen the ground. You just need to water the pot periodically, especially when the batteries are very hot and the air is dry. If you don’t water it at all, it will simply dry out and never come to life.
The most ideal places for its storage - an insulated balcony, basement, cellar. It is stored directly in the pot. If there is no dark place in the apartment, then the begonia can be covered with newspapers or cloth, otherwise sunlight may awaken its shoots ahead of time and it will bloom very sluggishly and bloom little, since it has not had time to gain strength.
Awakening of tubers
Tubers usually have time to gain strength by the beginning of spring, when they begin to wake up. It is important not to forget about this and remove the box with tubers from a cool room into warm room where it should warm up.
But before that, it needs to be pulled out of the soil, lightly washed in a solution of potassium permanganate, then it needs to be transplanted into fresh soil, which consists of peat, humus and sand. The distance between tubers should be about 5 centimeters.
Now she needs more light, warmth and water. Ideally, if the air temperature reaches up to 18 o C. But it is not advisable to place pots with begonias in direct sunlight or in a room where there is a draft, or where it is stuffy.
After some time it will begin to sprout. To speed up this process, it can be watered with various growth stimulants.
As soon as the first full-fledged leaves appear, the begonia needs to be transplanted into another soil mixed with ash and humus. In it she must continue her growth.
When it gets warmer outside and the ground warms up enough, then it will be possible to start transplanting begonias to open land. The planting site is mixed with drainage and sand, dug well so that it is loose.
Then the begonias are transplanted at a distance of 15-30 centimeters from each other, depending on their size. The top is mulched with ash, then humus is added.
After which you need to remember to water it periodically; it is best to do this in the morning, when the sun is not so scorching. It is undesirable to allow the soil to dry out, otherwise the begonia may die from lack of moisture. It is not advisable to spray begonia, as moisture causes brown spots to appear on its leaves.
If the begonia grows too tall and powerful, then you need to build a support for it so that it does not bend under the weight of its luxurious buds.
Introducing autumn and winter care for begonias different conditions. We tell you how to prepare tuberous begonia for winter: when to dig it up and how to store the tubers.
We also describe caring for begonias in winter at home, caring for young flowers, and what to do with begonias in the garden after winter.
Is it necessary and when to dig up begonia for the winter? What's the difference?
Begonias mostly heat-loving plants and preparing them for winter for flower growers is an important task on which their future fate depends.
When approaching the question of how to care for autumn and how to prepare begonia for winter, it is necessary to take into account the type of begonia, its condition and personal preferences.
In open ground in the CIS, tuberous begonia is grown, which is an ornamental flowering species or ever-flowering begonia, as an annual plant.
Tuberous begonia are hybrid varieties united by the presence of perennial tubers.
- Experts recommend that large tubers of begonias (they bloomed in the open ground in summer) should be placed in peat/sand after the above-ground part of the plant dies in the fall and stored in a cool place during dormancy. At the beginning of spring, begonia tubers begin to germinate.
- Large tubers of begonias (they bloomed in pots in the summer) can be left in the pot after the above-ground part of the plant dies in the fall. It is necessary to move the plants to a cold place.
- Begonias and flowers with small tubers grown from seeds are recommended to be stored in a cool, bright place in winter and watered moderately.
- Each tuberous begonia needs a period of rest - at least 2 months a year, and preferably about 100 days (minimum January-February).
Preparing tuberous begonia for winter growing in open ground
Now let's move on to the story of how to prepare tuberous begonia for wintering to obtain tubers.
After the end of flowering, the above-ground part of the begonia gradually dies off and the tubers begin to actively develop, accumulating nutrients. After the accumulation of nutrients in the tubers, the begonia will enter a period of rest.
- Some experts recommend not digging up tuberous begonias from the ground for as long as possible.
This allows the begonia tubers to accumulate maximum quantity nutrients. They believe that there is no need to be afraid of the first frosts and rush to dig up begonias.
This option is suitable for mature plants with large tubers.
- In our instructions for digging up begonia tubers, we present an option with earlier digging up begonia with a lump of earth.
Tuberous begonia, hybrid
Digging up begonia tubers for the winter
- In September, when there is a threat of the first frost, dig up a tuberous begonia with a clod of earth as large as possible.
- Begonias that grew in containers are taken out in a solid lump by tapping on the bottom of the pot.
- After digging, begonias are sorted by tuber size. Experienced flower growers It is recommended to separate small (diameter less than 2 cm) and large begonia tubers as small tubers are more prone to drying out.
- Then the begonia with a lump of earth is placed tightly together in boxes and they are placed in a ventilated, bright place protected from rain with a temperature of 14-16 degrees Celsius. Watering is reduced.
- At this time, the above-ground part of the begonia begins to gradually die off. After the leaves fall off, watering the plants is stopped. After flowering, begonia begins a period of rest.
- After the aerial part has completely died off (1-1.5 months), the tuberous begonia is cut off at a level of 2-3 cm from the ground. Pruning helps avoid infection of tubers by pathogenic fungi.
- 12-16 days after pruning, the begonia tubers are cleared of soil and sprinkled with dry sand or peat and placed in boxes.
ADVIСE. It is convenient to dig up begonia tubers from open ground with a pitchfork (garden fork).
The main thing is to dig up the begonia tubers along with the soil (soil mixture) and under no circumstances shake it off.
- Adult begonias with large tubers can be dug up 12-16 days after pruning dying shoots. Those. start from point 5.
Tuberous begonia: winter storage
- Boxes with small and large begonia tubers are stored from November to the end of February at a temperature of 7-9 degrees Celsius.
- The box with tubers is periodically sprayed: large tubers - once a month, and small begonia tubers - once every 3 weeks, so that they do not dry out. They also remove rotten tubers, if any.
- There is no need to divide the tubers before storing.
Storing begonia tubers in the refrigerator in winter
If you want to store begonia tubers in winter not in a basement or cellar, then after sorting they can be put in a plastic bag filled with peat, sawdust or moss and put in the refrigerator.
The bag with tubers is periodically taken out and moistened, similar to point 2 in the chapter “Storing tubers in winter.”
Begonia tuber
Preparing young begonias for winter: care in the first year
Young plants with small tubers, after digging out of the garden, are recommended to be placed with a ball of earth in separate boxes.
- Young begonias experience a relative period of dormancy and their above-ground parts often remain green in winter. Young flowers overwinter in boxes in a bright, cool place with moderate watering.
- With the onset of spring, young flowers begin to grow again. In April-May they are transplanted into separate pots, and in early June, if desired, the plants can be transplanted into open ground.
- Having lived in pots all summer, begonias begin to prepare for a period of rest. After the leaves fall in the fall, stop watering the begonias.
- In October, the wilted shoots of potted tuberous begonia are cut off at a level of 1-2 cm from the ground.
- Then, until the beginning of March, the flower pots are removed to the coldest place in the house or to the basement, cellar, or balcony. Water the tray occasionally and little to prevent the tubers from drying out.
- At the beginning of March, the pots are moved to a bright place and begin to be watered more abundantly. When the sprouts appear, the begonia tubers are delicately cleaned of the substrate and transplanted into a new one. soil mixture.
Wintering tuberous begonia in a pot: care at home
Begonia with large tubers, which bloomed in a pot in summer, can be left in it for the winter after the above-ground part dies off.
- To ensure that the begonia continues to bloom for as long as possible, place it in a bright place, but without direct sunlight. Water the begonias in the apartment when the nutrient substrate in the pot dries, approximately once every 10-14 days.
- When the begonia gets tired of flowering or it stops blooming on its own, stop watering, cut it off (2-3 cm from the ground) and move it to a dark and cool place (basement, cellar).
- In January-February, tubers are taken out of the ground and wrapped in wet towel and place it in a plastic bag (it should be slightly open) next to the battery.
- After about 2-3 weeks, the first shoots appear. Tubers are planted for forcing in small pots (500 g plastic cups) with wet soil. The tubers are lightly pressed into the ground.
- After 2-3 weeks, the begonia is transferred to a new permanent pot, and the tubers are covered with a 2-4 cm layer of soil mixture on top.
This method is well suited for tuberous begonias growing in pots.
Begonia after winter: care and planting in spring
In March-April, begonia buds begin to swell, and the plant gradually emerges from dormancy. Now you can carry out cuttings of ever-flowering begonia or planting tuberous begonia for germination in moist peat.
- 2-3 months before planting begonias on permanent place(March-April) tubers are taken out of the sand/peat and planted in pots/containers for germination (forcing).
If the begonia was stored in winter in boxes with a lump of earth, then simply take them out. - The tubers are planted with the top side up (the flatter or concave part with the buds (tubercles/irregularities)).
- For good germination, begonia tubers need a temperature of 17-20 degrees Celsius, high humidity and regular watering. In 2-3 weeks, the first shoots of begonia reach approximately 5-6 cm in height. In general, tubers germinate unevenly and for a long time.
- It is at this stage that it is recommended to propagate tuberous begonia by cuttings or division. The tubers can be cut into several parts, the main thing is that each has 3-4 buds. Typically, old tubers are divided into 2-4 parts; it is advisable to treat the cut areas with charcoal.
- After the sprouts get stronger, grow and the first leaves form, the begonia tubers from the boxes can be planted in separate pots.
Sprinkle soil mixture on top of the sprouts to the base of the first pair of leaves. It is advisable to add wood ash and humus. - It is recommended to plant begonia in open ground in early June, and in separate pots/containers on the balcony in mid-late May.
- For planting in open ground, choose a place protected from the winds with loose nutritious soil in partial shade or light, but with a minimum of scorching rays of the sun.
How to preserve begonia tubers until spring? If the begonia was grown from purchased tubers, the size of which is more than 3 cm, it is given a dormant period from the end of November to mid-February. If tuberous begonia is grown from seeds or by cuttings from the leaves of an adult plant, it does not need a dormant period. Storing begonia tubers in winter depends entirely on the age of the plant and the size of its tuber. How to prepare a plant for winter? What to do with young tubers? All questions are answered by experienced flower growers.
How to store begonia tubers at home?
The dormant period of tuberous begonia begins in mid-November and lasts until mid-February. However, you need to prepare for it in advance. If the plant blooms, experts recommend regularly removing faded flowers. If begonia lays new buds in September, they should be cut off without regret. Why? The flower soon enters a dormant period, and after flowering the tuber weakens.
How to preserve adult begonia tubers?
Here we will talk about plants whose age exceeds 2 years, and the size of the tuber is at least 3-4 cm in diameter. The storage conditions for first-year begonias in winter are somewhat different.
In September-October, many begonias' leaves begin to wither and dry out.. This is a natural process. In this way, the plant prepares to go to sleep in winter. What to do? If the pot is on a glassed-in loggia or balcony, it is brought into the house if there is a threat of night frost. Optimal temperature during the day +10...+15 degrees, at night - not lower than +5 degrees. If begonia was grown in room conditions, it is transferred to a cool place where the temperature does not rise above +15 degrees.
So, preparing begonia tubers for winter begins from the moment the plant’s leaves begin to wither and turn yellow. This happens in September-October. Such leaves are not cut, but wait until they are completely dry. They are simply unscrewed over time without any extra effort.
Important!!! The green leaves of begonia cannot be plucked, thereby forcibly putting the flower to rest. The leaves, when dry, transfer all the nutrients to the tuber. By tearing off all the foliage while it is still green, the grower deprives the tuber of the opportunity to gain mass.
Watering begonias from the end of September to the end of October is significantly reduced.. You need to make sure that the soil is slightly moist. Depending on the temperature, the optimal watering regime is once every 1-1.5 weeks. This humidity regime stimulates the plant to sleep. In conditions of lack of moisture, the leaves will turn yellow faster. At the end of October, watering is completely stopped.
The leaves on the begonia should partially turn yellow at the end of October.. They are carefully removed. If this does not happen, reduce the temperature of the flower.
Begonias do not need lighting during the dormant period.. Moreover, it can harm the flower. After all, under straight lines sun rays the flower may wake up ahead of time, because the plant, after it has shed all its foliage, must be rearranged dark place. Optimal storage temperature is +5...+12 degrees.
Optimal storage of begonia tubers in winter is carried out in basement, where it is quite cool and dark. If the begonia was grown in open ground, it is dug up after the first frost. Without shaking them off the ground, they are laid out in boxes and transferred to the basement. If begonia was grown in pots on the balcony, it does not have to be removed from the ground. After the ground part dies, the flower pots are simply transferred to a dark and cool room. If it is not possible to store it in the basement, it can be a storage room or a space near the balcony.
You can store begonia tubers without soil. To do this, after the above-ground part has died, the tuber is dug out of the ground, dried and placed in a box. You can sprinkle everything with sawdust or peat. It is not recommended to put begonia tubers in a plastic bag for the winter. There, the plant’s breathing process is disrupted and condensation accumulates. It is the cause of rotting.
How to store first-year begonia tubers?
Begonia tubers grown from seeds this year do not go to sleep over the winter. In the first year of its life, the plant tries to increase the mass of the tuber, and therefore retains its leaves. If the seedlings developed in open ground, then before the first night frosts the plants must be transplanted into pots and brought into the house.
How to store first-year tubers in winter? They do not shed their leaves and are not laid to rest. They must wait out the winter in a cool and bright place where the temperature does not drop below + 15 degrees. What do experienced flower growers do:
- Feeding has been stopped since September.
- The buds that the plant lays in September-October must be cut off.
- It is necessary to water the first-year begonia tuber as the top layer of soil dries. Watering is carried out along the contour of the pot. Water should not get on the tuber. Optimal mode watering - 1 time per week. It can be done less often if the temperature is within +15 degrees.
- Lighting is required. Otherwise, the begonia stems will simply stretch out.
- You can store begonia in winter on the east side of the house. But heating devices can dry out the air in this case and raise the temperature environment, and therefore you can put a container of water on the windowsill.
- You cannot feed the flower. Although it has retained the above-ground part, it practically does not consume nutrients from the soil, and their excess can lead to rotting of the roots.
In spring, elongated cuttings can be cut and rooted, but only after the tuber produces new stems.
