Gardener I. Krivega tells how to make compost with your own hands from fallen leaves.
Everyone knows that the main organs of plants are roots, stems and leaves. And if the authors of agricultural publications pay attention to the first two, then the leaves were not lucky in this regard. They are only said to contain chlorophyll and, through photosynthesis, provide carbohydrates and other nutrients to the entire plant. Well, as for the already fallen tree leaf, in most publications it is believed that it is completely useless and unnecessary, since it does not contain nutrients and it is not a fertilizer.
This means that an amateur gardener concludes for himself that the fallen leaf must be taken to a landfill, which is done in the city. And what will happen to the roots of trees without this protective layer? Are autumn leaves so useless?
Flower growers were the first to talk about the use of leaf humus. And it's understandable why. The moisture capacity of the soil increases and its structure and mechanical composition improve. But is it only necessary for flower growers? If you bring leaf litter from the forest, and even take it from your site and simply put it in a pile, it will be stored for a long time without rotting.
Another thing is forest leaf litter. From this, in fact, the desire to prepare leaf humus and compost began.
In a deciduous or mixed forest, without depriving the trees, I rake up a layer of half-decayed leaves, capturing a little of the topsoil as well. Usually this layer already consists of leaf humus. This composition has an acid reaction of the soil solution. I put all the prepared mass into spherical hemispherical heaps and compact it a little.
The readiness of leaf humus is determined by appearance and smell (a purely forest, not a putrid smell appears). Such humus can be applied to the soil as a loosening and fertilizing material. Forest bed prepared as humus, compost is especially good for clay soil.
How do I prepare this compost component? I water the heap with slurry, a solution of fermented herbs, and feces can also be added, as recommended. But I do not bring the latter for sanitary and hygienic reasons. For such short term, which I take away for the preparation of compost - 8 months, helminths, if they are there, will not have time to decontaminate and fall into the soil. Also, it seems to me, it is necessary to pay attention to the preparation of prefabricated compost, where the conditions are different, and the preparation time too.
We are talking about the fallen leaf, but it is brought into the compost and with fruit trees and shrubs, only if the leaves are healthy and not damaged by pests and diseases. Affected leaves are to be burned or removed from the garden plot away, where they will be disinfected in a natural way.
This applies not only to leaves from trees, but also to vegetable and other herbal leaves, which are also included in the compost, but in healthy, without rot, pests, diseases. In prefabricated compost, the leaves contribute to better aeration, moisture capacity and act as a ripper. But to accelerate the maturation of compost, the leaves must be applied in crushed form.
Otherwise, the leaves of a tree such as aspen stick together with plates and are stored in this form for years. It is best to make a birch, linden leaf, which does not need to be crushed. Dry leaf is used not only in compost, but also as a component in the construction warm beds, where, mixed with straw, hay, grass residues, it contributes to the production of heat for the roots of plants, and is also protective layer from the dank cold layer of soil. To do this, I collect dry leaves in dry weather and store until spring in closed containers. In particular, they are stored in my barrels under a canopy and in cans.
A dry leaf is also used by me as a mulching material for trunk circles fruit trees and shrubs, and garden beds. Including as a protective layer, and hence the roots of plants from frost and soil drying. The soil under the leaf is always moderately moist.
Now the autumn period of plant life has come. This year, the leaves of birch, linden, mountain ash and other plants turn yellow and fall first. Then mass leaf fall will begin. Dry leaves are used along with dry peat, chopped straw as bedding material with a layer of up to 30 cm, which absorbs liquid well when preparing a site for the preparation of any compost.
Dry leaves have passed my test for suitability as an insulating, and at the same time, aerosolizing material for winter garlic, planted in late September - the first decade of October. On a ridge with planted garlic, I pour a layer of 5-10 cm of dry birch leaves and cover with spruce branches or stems of raspberries, Jerusalem artichoke - so that they are not blown away by the wind, in winter I still add 20-30 cm of snow. There has never been a case that winter garlic, planted to a depth of 8-10 cm, I have frozen. In the spring, with the removal of shelter, it actively grows and produces good large bulbs.
Over the years of gardening, I have developed the following technology. Given the possibility of freezing compost, I cook the latter in shallow pits.
The depth of the pit is 30 cm, the width is 2.5 m. Experience has shown that the process of decay and fermentation in the pit does not stop even in winter. Now I'm already taking care of composting for the right time. My deadline is in the foreground. And microorganisms, bacteria, earthen fleas, fungi, worms and other living creatures in the soil will figure out for themselves what to do with this organic matter, plant food. This is noticeable on trial, test beds. Plants vegetate more actively than on normal ones.
So, having provided a five-centimeter bedding layer in the pit, I lay dry leaves of deciduous trees moistened with a solution of saltpeter or urea (urea) in layers (except oak, which rot poorly and contain tannins). For every 10-centimeter layer of leaves, I always add a layer of garden or sod land. For what? In order to, in addition to the structural composition of the soil, the macro- and microelements contained in it, also introduce soil microflora into the leaf layer.
Next comes the next layer of bulk leaves. Here we are already moistening it with slurry, or a solution of fermented grass. You can add a solution of fertile garden soil from your site. Next, the next layer of leaves, which we will moisten with a solution of caustic soda.
Caustic soda is not a fertilizer per se, but the caustic helps to extract chlorophyll from the leaves. Then the next layer - a solution of wood ash is introduced, then again a layer of leaves moistened with water. We cover everything with a five-centimeter layer of mowed grass. The next layer is covered with chopped straw - for oxygen, hay - for microorganisms, moistened with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate.
The compost pit is covered with sods 20 × 10 cm, laid tightly to each other on top of the heap, grass cover down. Then I install two vertical tubes to the middle of the pile - for air and moistening the pile, then I take them out and fill the holes.
I have two holes. One is where the components are assembled. Another - where the composition is shoveled. I do shoveling about a month after laying all the material in the first pile. This must be done to loosen the compost, and hence improve aeration, for better mixing of the composition of the heap.
So I had to give up classical forms composters and move on to cumulus forms. In addition to other advantages, I consider the main thing for me to be convenience and ease (after all, age is no longer the same strength) in the shoveling itself. After that, the compost is ready and can be applied to the soil.
In many sources, it is recommended to rake up all the fallen leaves from the garden after the leaf fall is completed so that it does not serve as a source of pests and diseases in the new season. Some burn fallen leaves, others take them outside suburban area. But this natural material can be successfully applied to the benefit of the garden and flower garden, namely, to cook from autumn foliage great compost. After all, few summer residents can boast of an excess amount, which are the main nutritional element of all plant crops. In this, only the villagers who keep poultry and livestock, and, accordingly, constantly receive a sufficient amount to fertilize their plantings. Therefore, for the rest, a great alternative can be leaf compost. He cannot boast of nutritional value, however, it perfectly improves the structure of the soil, increases its moisture capacity and does not require special labor costs during preparation, since in the fall it turns out to be available at the same time a large number of fallen leaves. Even diseased tree leaves will not be able to cause any damage to vegetable and flower crops, because during decay, all pathogenic microflora dies, and besides, their diseases are completely different.
Autumn leaves have a fairly dense structure, and therefore it takes a lot of time to decompose. Depending on the type of tree from which the foliage was taken, the readiness of this may occur in 1.5-3 years. However, if you fix this process and annually in the fall to lay a new batch of leaves for composting, you can always have valuable organic fertilizer. To do this, it is advisable to equip three compost bins on the site: in the first there will be freshly laid compost, in the second - ripening, and in the third - ready for use.
For these purposes, you can build wooden and metal compost bins, purchase special plastic containers and use durable plastic bags large capacity, in which it will be necessary to make several holes for air access. In addition to this, now garden shops there were special packages for the preparation of leaf humus.
Fallen leaves are raked, moistened with water if the leaves are dry, and placed in portions in the intended place, layered with earth and carefully rammed. In order for the composting process to go faster, it makes sense to prepare a solution of any nitrogen fertilizer(20-30 g of the drug per 10 liters of water) and moisten the leaves with it. An alternative to nitrogen preparations can be freshly cut lawn grass, which is poured into the compost bin along with layers of earth, or a variety of plant residues from vegetable tops to kitchen waste. It is worth remembering that leaf humus at the exit will have an acidic reaction, therefore, to neutralize it, it is necessary to evenly pour it into the compost bin wood ash, dolomite flour or chalk. Also, to accelerate the decay of all components, you can use modern biological preparations, which include living microorganisms.
After laying all the components in the compost bin, the future compost is covered with a film and in the future they make sure that it is constantly wet. In addition, the ripening mass should be thoroughly mixed 2-3 times per season in order to ensure sufficient air exchange for earthworms and microorganisms, which will just process the leaves into a homogeneous loose mass and accelerate the maturation of this natural fertilizer. Young compost can also be applied to beds and used as mulching material. In this case, its ripening will take place already in the garden or in the flower garden, so it is advisable to carry out this procedure in the fall, so that by the new season the processes of decomposition of the leaves have ended and they have turned into humic compounds useful for plants.
The maturity of a leaf is easy to determine by its smell - it will begin to thin out the pleasant aroma of forest land. It should not contain skeletons of not completely decomposed leaves or even whole leaf plates. At this stage, it will no longer be possible to determine which ingredients were put into the compost bin. When ripe, the mass acquires a very loose and uniform structure.
There is another sign that indicates the complete readiness of this organic fertilizer. If at the beginning of the process of decomposition of leaves and other organic matter, a large number of worms can be found in the compost bin, then when the compost is completely overheated, the worms completely leave such a place, since there is no food left for them.
Sheet compost will be especially useful for those summer residents who have plots on light sandy or heavy clay soils. In addition, this substrate can be successfully used for growing seedlings of all crops.
Kudrina Irina
Among the abundance of modern fertilizers, gardeners prefer the unchanging classics - natural organics, positive action which has been tested by more than one generation of predecessors. Fallen leaves take special place among such supplements. This natural organic matter does not require capital investments, and in terms of impact it is equal to bird droppings and mullein.
Leaves as fertilizer
Fallen leaves are rightfully considered a storehouse of fiber and a free source of a fairly rare trace element - silicon.
Rotting, deciduous raw materials turn into the most valuable organic fertilizer, for which gardeners appreciate it. earthworms They also love to settle in decimated foliage. Gardeners use fallen leaves specifically for breeding worms and other useful living creatures on their plots.
Leaf-based humus is rich in nitrogen and phosphorus. According to the quantitative composition of these macroelements, it is equivalent to cow dung. In addition, leaf humus remarkably mulches the soil, and is also a natural acidifier - an indispensable component of the normal growth and development of acidophilic plants.
If there are a lot of trees on the site, then leaf litter can be successfully used for top dressing. horticultural crops. So, alder is considered the most valuable in terms of the content of nutrients, birch and maple are slightly inferior to it.
Can it be used?
Top dressing based on fallen leaves contains not only the main macronutrients (nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus), but also essential microelements: iron and magnesium, silicon, calcium and sulfur.
All these components are extremely important not only for horticultural crops but also for soil. Leaf litter perfectly loosens the soil, improves air and water permeability. In addition, they like to huddle in it. earthworms- useful and hardworking inhabitants of personal plots.
Positive properties:
- fertilizes the soil.
- serves as a natural covering material that protects plants from freezing in winter.
- fallen leaves, overheating, improve the structure of the soil.
- serves as food for earthworms.
Negative properties:
- Overripe foliage is a breeding ground for pathogenic bacteria and pests.
- it is difficult to see and eliminate all infected leaves. If this is not done, leaf humus will become a real breeding ground for diseases.
How to prepare fertilizer?
There are many ways to prepare high-quality organic matter from fallen leaves, but most often gardeners make humus, compost, mulch and ash from it.
Humus
To prepare high-quality leaf humus, raw materials are collected, put into a container (you can use old barrel) and rammed. You don't need to close it. In the absence of a suitable container, the foliage is folded into thick bags, not forgetting to make small holes in several places. Garden stores sell special bags for creating humus. Containers (or bags) with foliage are placed in the most humid corner of the site. The humus will be ready for use in about a year or two. After 2-3 years, it will turn into real humus.
Compost
Its production involves following certain rules. It is worth considering the rate of decay of foliage different types trees. For example, oak leaves decompose more slowly than birch and linden leaves.
To speed up the overheating of the foliage, it should be regularly mixed, increasing air access. Or prepare a nitrogen-containing solution for irrigation, accelerating the decay process.
If the foliage was not removed in winter, it is done in the spring. Organic garbage should not be burned or thrown away. He is sent to compost heap. This raw material will decompose faster, since it has already been under the snow and mixed in the ground. In addition, microorganisms have already settled there, accelerating overheating.
Compost is prepared in a pile or pit. After its complete overheating, the most valuable organic fertilizer is applied under berries, flowers, fruit trees.
Ash
If there are doubts about the quality of sheet raw materials, then it is more reasonable to dry and burn it. Fire will destroy all diseases, as well as pests at various stages of development. When the leaves burn, hydrocarbon, oxygen and nitrogen evaporate, leaving: 25% calcium, 15% potassium, 4% phosphorus, a small amount of magnesium and iron, zinc and sulfur, manganese and boron, copper and strontium.
A significant calcium content turns ash into a valuable deoxidizer, which is necessary for many horticultural and horticultural crops. Potassium in the ash is in a form that is easy for plants to assimilate. This mineral fertilizer is applied before digging the garden (up to 300 g per sq. M.), And also poured into the holes during planting and when forming compost heaps.
Mulch
Fallen leaves are also used as natural mulch. To do this, in the autumn, the wet biomaterial is laid out on the ground. It prevents the growth of weeds, protects the soil from freezing, weathering, evaporation of nutrients.
In addition, mulch blocks Sun rays. This is especially true for aluminas, which are subject to inevitable crusting. In the spring, the foliage is raked and placed in a compost heap or buried in the ground when digging.
For the first few years, mulched beds will need a nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Perfect for manure or slurry. But it is better to refuse to apply mineral fertilizers, since they will have a detrimental effect on the activity of earthworms.
Note. With the advent of natural humus, there is no need for any other fertilizers.
Fallen leaves serve as a high-quality insulation that will help roses, hydrangeas, chrysanthemums, and other berry plants to successfully winter. In the mulch, useful microorganisms, earthworms, which improve the structure of the soil, accelerate the process of decomposition of organic matter, winter well.
For winter shelter, large chestnut or maple foliage is best suited. Smaller biomaterial is strongly caking and blocks the access of oxygen, which is undesirable for plants.
Foliage Features
most useful foliage considered nutty. It is added to compost or simply burned. Walnut ash not only feeds garden crops, but also fights against hyperacidity soil.
birch leaves, view small size, overheat very quickly. Based on them, it is possible to obtain fast and high-quality organic matter. But oak trees need at least a year to decompose.
It is noted that oak litter is famous for its high content of acids and tannins, the excess of which can harm garden crops. Due to this specific composition, oak foliage overheats for a long time.
Aspen leaves after decomposition restore the nitrogen content in the soil. In addition, the soil is enriched with magnesium, calcium and potassium. However, they also overheat for a very long time and tend to stick together, blocking the access of oxygen.
Oak and aspen leaves are added in small quantities to the general compost. Some gardeners take them separate place for long overdue.
Alder foliage is considered the most valuable in terms of nutrient content, maple and birch leaves are slightly inferior to it.
Coniferous needles overheat for at least 3 years. However, such organics are indispensable for planting acidophilic crops - connoisseurs of acidic soil. Among them are rhododendrons, camellias, hydrangeas, azaleas, representatives of the heather family.
Note. When using litter, the following is taken into account: oak, chestnut and birch leaves alkalize the soil, while aspen and linden, on the contrary, acidify.
Conclusion
Fallen leaves - excellent fertilizer for garden crops. They contain a large amount of nutrients, perfectly mulch the soil, and, if necessary, restore the disturbed level of acidity.
leaf humus contains almost no nutrients, so it cannot be used as a fertilizer. Advantages humus lie in its soil-conditioning properties. Soil generously fertilized humus, retains moisture at the roots of plants longer, helping them survive summer drought and saving the gardener time, labor and money. Humus - favorite place habitats of earthworms, great helpers of the gardener. semi-finished humus is a great addition to garden compost. Using fallen leaves for making humus, they do not have to be burned, poisoning themselves and their neighbors with acrid smoke. If you care environment, then plant acidophiles (plants that love acidic soil) in a mixture soil with humus and refuse to use shop peat, which is extracted from unique natural peat bogs.
Collection of leaves for leaf humus
In flower beds, among shrubs or other plantings collect leaves it is possible with the help of special hand-held fan rakes that do not damage neighboring plants. On a small lawn or other open space, use a lawn fan rake. Benefits of "old fashioned" hand assembled are that you can work in wet weather, which is not uncommon in autumn. Wet leaves are best for leaf humus because they decompose faster.
On the patio and others flat surfaces to collect leaves, use a broom or a special garden vacuum cleaner that works in two modes. By blowing air, it will help to collect the fallen leaves in a pile. Drawing in air, he will collect the leaves in a special bag, after crushing them. On large lawns, it is most convenient to use a lawn mower to collect leaves, setting the blades to the highest height.
The advantage of using a lawn mower and a vacuum cleaner is that the leaves are shredded and collected in one place (bag or basket), saving the gardener a lot of time and physical effort. Crushed leaves decompose much faster and turn into humus. However, working with them has its own limitations: you can use the equipment only in dry weather; with wet leaves, they do not work as efficiently at all; the collection of leaves with a lawn mower has to be carried out regularly, not allowing them to accumulate.
Preparation of leaf humus
The collected leaves should be moistened, tightly laid and tamped. You can use the following for:
- Special leaf designs (four wooden pegs covered with metal "chicken" mesh), 1m x 1m or larger with open top
- Thick plastic bags for garden waste. Pierce bags filled with wet leaves in several places, the top can be slightly twisted or even left open.
- Special bags for preparation of leaf humus(sold in garden centers), see photo below.
Bags for the preparation of leaf humus. Wet leaves are left in such bags in a secluded corner of the site. Ready humus take it out and use it when you need it
Fungal cultures, which decompose leaves and turn them into humus, require almost no oxygen (this is one of the significant differences from making garden compost), but require high humidity. Mixing leaves with green grass clippings also speeds up the process.
Now all you have to do is be patient and wait. As with garden compost production, it's only hard to wait in the first year. And when the process is already established, then during the laying of a new batch of leaves, last year's one is already ready for winter mulching and other autumn work in the garden.
What leaves to use for leaf humus? In fact, any. However, remember that the time of decomposition of the leaves depends on the type of tree. Quickly (within a year) subject to compliance right conditions the leaves of most deciduous trees decompose: birch, oak, maple, hawthorn, mountain ash, hornbeam, hazel. Evergreen leaves and needles can take 2-3 years to decompose and it is especially recommended to grind such leaves in a garden vacuum cleaner, lawn mower or shredder.
The use of leaf humus
Young leaf humus is ready in 0.5 - 2 years, depending on the quality of preparation and tree species. In the young humus, in addition to the dark homogeneous soil, the skeletons of the leaves are clearly visible, sometimes whole leaves and small sticks come across. Such humus can be added to the soil on the site, in
Foliage covered the paths and paths, in the mornings the puddles are pulled together by a thin gloss of ice. Autumn has come to our garden. And everything pulls us to the dacha. It seems that all things before the winter can not be redone. But the eyes are afraid, but the hands do.
For those whose plots are not too fertile, experts recommend digging up half of the plot to increase the thickness of the fertile layer and. Must be brought in for digging mineral fertilizers: phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium at the rate of 10 g per 1 sq. meter. On the next year on such a bed you can grow carrots, potatoes, beets, beans, peas, tomatoes, horseradish, strawberries. Or plant currants.
The second half is dug up to a depth of 30-40 cm, if the site is new or has been abandoned for a long time. At the edge of the site, a furrow is dug 40 cm deep. Nearby, the humus part of the soil is removed to the width of a shovel and dumped to the bottom of the furrow with turf down. The rest of the soil is taken out and poured on top. Compost is introduced, any humus, peat at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 sq. meter.
Compost can be made from fallen leaves. However, experts do not recommend using leaves for its preparation. garden trees. So on a dry sunny day, you have to take a garden cart, a rake and go to a park or forest.
Fallen leaves contain macro- and microelements. But they act differently. Some stimulate growth, others make them wither. Harmful to the garden-garden rotted leaves of birch, aspen, oak, cherry, apple, raspberry. Useful are the leaves of elderberry, red and white currant, ash, linden, red-fruited mountain ash, maple and linden.
But needles are especially useful coniferous trees. They contain a huge amount of valuable substances that are useful not only for trees, but also for people. It is best to compost the needles together with the leaves of garden trees, mixing the mass thoroughly. Coniferous compost is introduced along with a deoxidizer, which must be bought at the store. If you are going to grow cranberries, lingonberries, blueberries on your plot, then such compost is simply irreplaceable. It should be mixed with peat for these crops.
Leaves for composting are stacked in dug trenches as follows: soil layer, foliage layer. All the weeds that you have collected from your garden are also added to the compost. There are also added peelings from potatoes and other vegetables, eggshell, Asleep Tea Infuser. If it rains, then nothing else is required. And in dry weather, trenches with leaves need watering.
If possible, manure or bird droppings are added to the water for irrigation. Composting takes two years. After that, the compost is sifted through a grid with large cells. What hasn't rotted is used in the next compost.
Two-year-old compost is used when planting trees, shrubs, vegetables, flowers, both garden and domestic.
Digging the soil is useful because it makes you defenseless against the cold and birds. harmful insects hiding in the leaves and in upper layers soil.
berry bushes, perennials in the fall need to be transplanted to a permanent place.
In autumn, ditches for drainage up to 30 cm deep break through. They dig along the edges of the site and in the middle, so that in the spring, due to abundant snowmelt, the water does not melt buildings and plantings, but flows into the ditches.
The garden needs organic fertilizers, they are just given by compost. It improves physical and Chemical properties soil, activates the vital activity of useful microelements. More experienced gardeners use sideration– plowing the green mass of lupine, seradella and other annual herbs from the legume family. This method enriches the soil organic matter, nitrogen and other nutrients. Green manure is especially useful for sandy and low-humus sandy soils.
All annuals are removed in autumn. All leaves, stems and other debris from the flower beds are removed and burned to prevent disease. Half-cut lashes of hybrid tea, polyanthus and miniature roses. Before shelter, the leaves of the roses break off. If this is not done, roses can die from fungal diseases. Weak shoots are also removed.
It is necessary to check the bark of fruit trees well, remove the nests of harmful insects found. Clean and whitewash all damaged and insect-infested areas.
If it is possible to visit the cottage in winter, then you should hang out the feeders and tame the birds. During the winter, they will deal with almost all pests. If this is not possible, then on the site you can leave the stems with boxes of annuals. Birds will eat them with pleasure, and at the same time they will destroy insects.
Before winter, some gardeners, when the soil freezes to a depth of about 2-3 cm, sow seeds early radish, rutabagas, turnips, beets, carrots, parsley, celery, dill. The beds are prepared in advance, making all the necessary fertilizers. Furrows for sowing seeds are made 2.5-3 cm deep and 2-2.5 cm wide. Seeds are sown during the thaw and twice as much as in spring. Some vegetable growers even plant potatoes before winter. But in our area risk farming Still, you shouldn't plant the whole field with them. And then in the spring you can be left without potatoes, and without seeds ...
It is better to select a small area for the experiment. Make a furrow, put straw manure or dry grass on the bottom. Put the tubers on this litter and cover them with earth. The tubers must be late varieties, green in the sun and medium-sized. The advantage of this planting is that in the spring you do not need to dig. The tubers, under successful circumstances, will harden, the harvest will be earlier.
And in late autumn you can treat yourself assorted autumn vegetables.
Are taken green tomatoes, apples of autumn varieties, carrots, onions, cauliflower, string beans. All this is cleaned, washed, placed in jars and poured with marinade: per liter of water 2 tbsp. spoons of sugar, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of salt, 4 black peppercorns, 4 allspice peas.
All this is boiled for 10 minutes and 5 tbsp. spoons of 5% table vinegar. Bring to a boil and boil for 5 minutes.
Banks are covered with lids, liter ones are sterilized - 10 minutes, two-liter ones - 15 minutes, three-liter ones - 20 minutes. Cork, turn over and leave it until it cools completely.
This is probably one of the most delicious gifts of late autumn.
