How to cut a log house into a paw: the technology of its assembly. Manual felling in the paw in the log cabin of the bath How much will it take to cut down the log cabin in the paw

The main distinguishing characteristic of a log house is the way in which the logs are connected to each other. There are two main ways: in the "paw" and in the "bowl". Let us consider in detail the first option for creating a wooden base for the house (and you can find a description of the second one here).

What is a log house in the "paw"?

Everything is quite simple: this is a log house in which the ends of the logs do not protrude from the wall, that is, they form an ordinary angle like brickwork.

At the same time, nothing sticks out of the building, the house (bath) has a regular quadrangular (as a rule) shape.

To better understand what's what, watch the video below - everything is shown clearly there, at the same time you can learn some techniques for working with logs using a chainsaw. This can also come in handy if you want to build your own wooden house, with your own hands, and are not going to buy a finished product.

If you want to buy the basis of the future building - go to the bottom of this page, where we are talking about the comparative advantages, features of this type of log cabins.

Video felling in the "paw"

As you can see, there are no particular difficulties in this method, an experienced worker will prepare the end of the log for laying in just a minute or two (see the duration of the video).

Pros and cons of the method

It cannot be said that the two methods differ in performance very much. In fact, the connection method does not affect the quality and properties of the structure so much. Noise insulation and the ability to retain heat are almost identical for houses cut down using different technologies.

Nevertheless, there are certain disadvantages and advantages of cutting into a castle (the video clearly shows that exactly the semblance of a castle is made of wood).

They are due, firstly, to the aesthetic properties of the finished structure, and secondly, to the fact that for the connection "in the paw" it is not necessary to precisely fit the logs to size; canting is also carried out less accurately.

Advantages

Comparatively low cost (due to lower requirements for the ratio of log sizes, work is completed faster, less material is used for the structure).
(somewhat debatable) Variety of possibilities for interior and exterior decoration. The inner wall is hewn to compensate for the unevenness of individual logs, it can be finished in different ways. The absence of log ends also allows you to finish the facade with a variety of materials, for example,.

Flaws

Interior and exterior decoration is simply necessary, otherwise the house will look sloppy (due to all the same differences in size). And this, in turn, is an additional cost.
The corners of the house are worse protected from moisture (and, therefore, from rotting).
This design is considered less stable (which, however, is not very important for small houses).
It is difficult to create an aesthetically verified image of an old Russian hut (both outside and in the interior).

When choosing between two classic types of cutting the corners of wooden log cabins “in the paw” and “in the bowl”, you should pay attention to their properties. The masters of our company are fluent in both techniques, but the customer still needs to figure out which type of felling corners of log cabins meets his requirements. In this article, a comparative analysis of the two classic types of connection - “in the bowl” and “in the paw” will be carried out so that you can decide which one to choose.

Cutting "in the paw" during the construction of a log house

The first thing that can attract a customer in choosing a felling “in the paw” is the economic component. When cutting corners "in the paw" there is a real opportunity for savings. This type of felling of log corners does not imply overspending of material. And the walls of the log house correspond to the length of the log. As a result, the total cost of a log or timber house, or a bath, is reduced by up to ten percent.

However, cutting "in the paw" has a number of disadvantages.

One of the main disadvantages of cutting "in the paw" is a significant heat consumption. Due to the fact that the spread of cold along the wood fibers is much faster than across, and the end of the log or timber with such a connection is at a fairly close distance from the interior, it is easier for heat to seep out. The heat exchange between cold air outside and warm air inside in a wooden house cut down “in a paw” is much more intense than when cutting “into a bowl”.

Actually, such cutting requires more qualification from the master and is in itself more laborious. The fact is that the inadequate quality of work can lead to the fact that over time the logs will “float”. And this will inevitably lead to the distortion of the entire building. At the same time, the size of the log house does not play a role, whether it is a large house, a bathhouse or a summer veranda.

The building, chopped "in the paw" is short-lived, the reason for this is the violation of the structure of the tree with this type of felling of the log house. This inevitably leads to a decrease in the stability of the house or bath to the natural influences of external factors and weather conditions. So, for example, water that has fallen into a log house with a similar type of connection can seriously damage the building when it freezes. But to make work on the exterior of such a log house is much easier. If the owner of the house is generally interested in cashing out the building, it is much more convenient to do it on a house cut down “in a paw” than on a house cut down “in a bowl”.

Cutting "into a bowl" during the construction of a log house

It is more expensive to chop a wooden house or a bath “into a bowl” than “into a paw”. However, the difference in price is not so great. It is about 5 - 10 percent. However, for this money you buy not only a more classic look of a log cabin or a log house, but also a number of nice bonuses, which will be discussed below.

Firstly, heat loss in a wooden house or bathhouse, cut down “into a bowl”, is much less. The size of the building in this case does not play a role. Starting from small log cabins, and ending with the most common log cabins among customers - all of them have less heat transfer if they are cut not in a "paw", but in a "bowl".

The stability of the house, the frame of which is made in the "bowl", has become a parable among the masters of felling. And this has been repeatedly confirmed in practice. In addition, the log house “in the bowl” looks more authentic and classic compared to the log house “in the paw”. It is immediately clear that this is a real traditional log house.

When felling a log house “into a bowl”, the wood structure of the log is subjected to minimal disturbances. This most directly affects the durability of the log house. Its resistance to the natural effects of external factors and weather conditions increases many times over.

We hope that this material will help you make the right choice. Now you are able to independently figure out which type of log house - "in the bowl" or "in the paw" - is preferable. It remains only to place an order in our company. We'll take care of the rest!

Today, wooden buildings are becoming increasingly popular. But, since hiring qualified builders to build a wooden house is not a cheap pleasure, many take up the construction of a log house on their own, however, without sufficient knowledge and skills, they end up not getting the result they expected. To successfully complete such work, you need to at least understand how to chop a log house into a paw and how - into a bowl.

Scheme of cutting a log house into a paw.

Advantages and disadvantages of felling in the paw

A feature of forcing a log house into a paw is that the ends of the logs do not enter the corners of the building under construction. The main advantage of this method is the relative ease of cutting grooves compared to cutting into a bowl. Not the last role in the popularity of this cutting method is played by the fact that when using it, timber or round timber is used to its full length, without residue, which saves on material.

Scheme of felling in a paw with a tooth.

However, this cutting method also has significant disadvantages. The log cabins driven out in this way are less stable. In addition, their corners turn out to be cold, poorly retaining heat inside the building. Therefore, for residential buildings cut into the paw, additional insulation is required.

However, this minus can be easily turned into a plus: it is enough to cover the inner surface of the house with beautiful finishing materials, for example, siding, and the problem will be eliminated. Moreover, such a finish will also look quite impressive. For a log house made into a bowl, with protruding ends of the corners, such a finish is not possible.

Logging

Despite the relative ease of making grooves, it is possible to cut a log house into a paw with high quality only if the ends of the logs or timber are correctly marked. When using timber, it is always better to take material of the same thickness, and the thicker the timber, the fewer connecting grooves in the corners, respectively, such a house will become warmer. When cutting a log house from logs, it is always necessary to take a log with an end face of a smaller thickness for a sample and adjust the rest along it.

For marking, it is much more convenient to make special templates than to work with each end separately. Such templates are made of thick cardboard, and marking with their help is carried out simply by applying them to the ends of the logs.

For cutting a log house you will need tools:

Cutting the corners of the walls "in the paw" and the order of its marking.

saw;
axe;
bit;
plane;
roulette;
level;
plumb;
a hammer;
mallet.

With a planer, you need to completely grind that side of the logs or timber, which will fit inside the room. The opposite side is processed only at the ends, the processed length of the sections should be in the range from 2 to 2.5 log diameters. The two remaining sides are equal at the ends by 1-1.5 log diameters each.

Paw cutting technique

To chop a log house always begins with the laying of the first, so-called crown crown. On the selected site, 2 logs are laid parallel to each other, on the ends of which the following 2 are placed at right angles. The result is a square that is adjusted in level into a single plane.

At the ends, markings are made and grooves are made for planting logs. The total depth of the groove should not exceed half the thickness of the log.

For the device of the overlay crown, you should always choose the thickest logs.

Indeed, the quality and reliability of the entire future log house largely depend on how correctly and evenly it will be laid out.

A log is placed on top of the groove made, in which the upper part is prepared for laying the next log. The grooves must be marked and prepared in such a way that when laying the next crown, it fits into the prepared groove as accurately as possible. And this applies not only to the accuracy of the crown entering the socket, but also to the constant control of both horizontal and vertical stacking of the crowns.

When forcing a log house into a paw, the technique for laying crowns from timber and logs is somewhat different. A wooden beam with even edges is simply installed with a crown on the crown. If you cut a log house from logs, then the upper crown has to be laid on the rounded surface of the lower one.

To make the crowns fit tighter, a longitudinal groove is made in the lower part of the upper crown along its entire length. Then the upper crown is placed in a log house and it is observed how it fits to the lower one. If the tightness of the fit is insufficient, the upper crown is removed, the groove is corrected and the entire laying procedure is repeated from the beginning. And only having achieved that the crowns fit snugly against each other, you can move on to the next crown.

Often, due to the inexperience of the carpenter, the “paws” in the corners cannot be fitted tightly enough, and gaps appear between them. If these slots cannot be removed with an ax, then they must be eliminated by driving a wooden wedge of suitable thickness and width into the slot. But it is better to try to do without such connections.

Crown fixation

When cutting a log into a paw, additional fixation of the crowns is much more important than when cutting into a bowl. Fixing logs when cutting into a paw is performed in two ways: using plug-in or indigenous spikes. The first is simpler in execution, with the second, the logs are fixed more securely.

The first option provides for the device in the "paws" of 2 connected crowns of a vertical hole Ø 3-4 cm. A wooden stake of the same diameter is driven into these holes. In each paw, with the exception of the crown crowns, two such straight spikes are obtained, and they are inserted in a checkerboard pattern so as not to fall with one wooden peg on another. To enhance the overall rigidity of the structure, straight spikes are often driven in along the entire length of the crowns in increments of 1.5-2 m.

Experienced carpenters, in order to give greater strength to the corner joint, when cutting a log house into a paw, often arrange a special spike at the junction of the crowns, called the “root”. It is arranged in each underlying crown and looks like a small (from 2 to 4 cm, depending on the thickness of the log) protrusion. There is an unwritten rule that the root tenon area should be a quarter of the total working area of the paw. Such a protrusion is always arranged from the side of the inner corner, and a groove of the same shape and depth is made on the crown superimposed on top.

If theoretically you know everything about how to cut a log house in a paw, but you do not have enough practical experience, then before proceeding directly to cutting a log house, it is better to play it safe and perform a test felling on 2-3 logs. If you manage to connect them into a paw without visible gaps, then you can always use them for a log house. Well, if it doesn’t work out the first time, then you will have a clear opportunity to see, analyze the reasons for the failure and subsequently perform the felling of the log house correctly.

If you decide to put up the log house yourself, you will need to decide how you will connect the logs or timber at the corners. You will also need to understand how, if necessary, to grow two logs or beams in length, insert a wall.

Regardless of what the frame is made of, there are two types of corner joints:

with the remainder (or release) - this is when there is still some piece of log or timber behind the junction;
or no remainder.

When cutting with the remainder, there is a rather large overspending of material. Each residue is at least 20-25 cm. These “tails” in one crown take 160-200 cm. The consumption is quite considerable. But on the other hand, such a cutting is called a “warm corner”, precisely because they do not dry out with normal caulking.

Cutting a log house without residue is more economical in terms of material consumption at the construction stage, but in this option the corner is the most freezing place. Also, with this method of connecting logs and timber in the corner, even small errors greatly affect the quality. Therefore, increased requirements are imposed on the quality of cutting bowls.

There is a big difference in the technology of building a log house from a log and a bar. The logs have a rounded shape and it is impossible to join them tightly without processing. Therefore, a notch is made in the lower or upper crown - a groove into / on which the next log is placed. This increases the surface of their contact. It is the width of the groove that is the actual thickness of the log wall. The shape of the groove and the accuracy of its execution determine how warm the wall will be.

With a bar it's different. Since the planed one has almost the same dimensions, and the profiled and glued ones do not have “almost”, and their edges are flat, no adjustment and groove is needed. Therefore, the entire assembly of a log house from a bar consists in forming joints in the corners. He successfully copes with blockage of small inconsistencies. As a result, a log cabin is folded many times faster.

First, let's talk about log cabins. Recently, they have become popular again, especially in suburban construction: they look attractive, and also natural. Moreover, even despite a significant overrun of the material, the corners are made with the remainder. These methods of joining logs are traditional. They came to us from great-grandfathers, in this way they built their houses.

Log house in a bowl

As already mentioned, a longitudinal recess is made in each log - a groove. In the corners they are hewn more, in the form of a log lying across. This recess turns out to be rounded, therefore it is called a bowl, and the method of cutting a corner is into a bowl. The second name is "in oblo".

According to the location of the bowl are upper and lower. The upper bowl is called so because the log lies on top of the crown, clasping the lower one. Such a connection is also called "Okhlop". Remember: the bowl is upper, despite the fact that it is formed at the bottom of the log.

The work goes in several stages. The log is preliminarily placed in a log house and leveled. Then the contours of the groove and the bowl are outlined, transferred to a flat surface and processed there - the bowls are chopped. When the recess is ready, the log is again lifted and laid in place, trying on. If necessary, they are corrected (removed again, cut where necessary) and only then placed on a sealant (tow, jute, moss). All these movements are compensated by the fact that with this method of cutting, precipitation simply flows down the side surfaces of the wall, and they are usually well protected by several layers.

The lower bowl can be molded directly in the frame: all manipulations can be done on the laid crown. When the walls are already high, with insufficient skill it is very inconvenient to do this, because you still have to carry the logs up / down. Perhaps that is why this method is less popular.

It is easier to make a log house in a bowl: it allows you to correct almost all errors. In addition, for all the apparent complexity, it is this type of joining logs that is easier for beginners to do. All others require more carpentry skill.

How to make a log joint from a log into the lower bowl is shown in the video below. The explanation is detailed, and the methods of working with an ax and the full procedure are shown. Beforehand, it is only necessary to say about the tool with which the log is drawn. This is a carpentry trait or scriber.

The device is very similar to a school compass. There is also a sharp stop on one side and a pencil on the other. Also, as in a compass, the required distance is fixed with a screw. Having set the ends to the desired distance, the sharp part is led along the log under which the bowl needs to be cut. With a pencil, respectively, according to the one in which the groove and the bowl will be cut. This is how they get the markup, which is then pointed with a marker. It will become clearer when you see the process of marking the bowl in the video.

Actually, now a video on how to make a connection of logs in the lower bowl. In the first part, we are talking about forming a longitudinal groove, in the second, directly about cutting the bowl.

Connection in ohryap

This type of connection consists of two semicircular bowls. In order for the corner folded in this way to be warm, a decent experience is needed: even minor errors in the width of the groove or the thickness of the jumper will cause drafts.

Cutting logs with corners without residue

As mentioned earlier, the corners are colder without a trace, but they can significantly save on building materials.

Angle "in the paw"

Among the connections of logs in the corners, the “paw” method is popular. It is easy to implement, and at the same time provides high strength and reliability of the connection. Also, the presence of inclined cuts allows you to achieve high tightness. The method has been tested for a long time, even GOSTs have been developed: size tables for each log diameter (see photo).

All dimensions are plotted relative to the found middle of the log and the vertical line drawn from it (it is carried out using).

The order of work is as follows:

So all the logs are processed in turn. As you can see, the dimensions depend on the diameters of the logs. In order not to suffer every time with drawing, they make templates from thin plywood according to the diameters of the logs that are available (sign them). Then, having found the middle and made a blockhead, they apply and circle a suitable template. With this order of work, there is less chance of making a mistake, and it takes less time to cut the bowls.

Docking timber with the rest

The easiest way to join a beam in the corners of a log house is “to the floor of a tree”. A rectangular groove is cut out, the dimensions of which depend on the thickness of the timber and make up. The depth of the excavation is half the thickness of the timber. That's why it's called "half a tree".

The connection of the beam in the corners with the remainder - in half a tree, in a fat tail, in an okhryap

The "tail tail" method is distinguished by the presence of an additional spike, which provides a stronger and more reliable connection, but requires more carpentry skills. More difficult is the connection of the timber into the okhryap. Here you cannot make a mistake when calculating the width of the jumper, but it is implemented much easier than on a log: the geometry here is standard and you can use a template, which greatly speeds up the work, and then the error can only be when cutting out.

Joining the beam in the corner without residue

There are several connection types. Traditionally, for baths and houses, they are used "in half a tree" and "in a paw." They differ only in form. The half-tree has even, parallel edges. It is implemented simply. When joining the timber "in the paw", the shape of the spikes is made trapezoidal. It is a little more difficult to perform, but there is less chance of through holes.

There are several more types of butt joints. They are not very reliable and do not provide proper tightness, although they are economical in terms of material consumption. They are rarely used for residential buildings, mainly for the construction of outbuildings.

A simple butt joint occurs with alternation. This makes the corner stronger. For reinforcement, you can use steel plates or knock down the timber with long nails at an angle.

There are also ways to assemble end-to-end with dowels of various shapes.

Another way of construction: using frame-beam technology. Then, in the corners and at the joints of the beam along the length, a vertical stand is placed with grooves formed in the required planes. At the ends of the beam, a spike is formed of the appropriate shape. When laying, you have to “put on” each element from above.

The advantage is that you can mold all the spikes according to a single template, and then just assemble everything like a constructor (not forgetting to lay interventional insulation). The connection turns out to be tight and quite reliable, moreover, the joint itself is not visible and the view is very attractive.

How to connect the beads in length

The easiest way is in half a tree. Its configuration and shape are similar to those made when joining a corner. But the disadvantage of this splicing method is that in the event of longitudinal forces that can occur during shrinkage or soil movement, such a connection is easily broken. A continuous gap is formed.

The oblique patch lock has the same drawback: it is easy to disconnect it. If you need a secure joining of the timber, use a direct overhead lock. As you can see, due to the protrusion, pressed by the crowns located on top and the weight of the roof, it will resist the forces of longitudinal tension (and compression too). It is more difficult to perform, but many times more reliable.

The traditional material for the construction of the Russian bath is a solid log. In addition to the affordable price, the sawlog (aka round timber) also attracts with another feature: a person with little experience in carpentry can make a log house with his own hands. You will need: the availability of time, the desire to self-study and theoretical training, combined with practice. Hence the purpose of our article - to intelligibly tell how to properly cut down a log sauna with a steam room.

We collect a bath from logs

The first task that needs to be solved in advance is the allocation of a site for the construction of a bath. Find a place near your home, preferably near a body of water or a pool. The recommended location of the building and indents from other objects on a summer cottage or personal plot are shown in the diagram.

The next step is to draw up a layout of the premises, taking into account the allocated area. As a rule, 3 rooms are made in the sauna - a washing room, a steam room and a dressing room, which at the same time serves as a rest room. You can read more about the correct breakdown of the area. Now that the planning is done, let's take a closer look at how to cut and assemble your log cabin.

So, the production of works is divided into the following stages:

Selection of materials and preparation of tools.
The device of the foundation for a log house.
Cutting the first crown and subsequent assembly of the walls.

Lumber selection

It is customary for us to build log houses from coniferous wood - pine, spruce and larch. It is better to lay the latter in the first 2-3 crowns, since it resists moisture well. Freshly cut wood is allowed to mature and dry for 1 month.

Reference. The ideal forest for the construction of a log house is a part of a tree from the root (butt) to the beginning of the crown of a combat pine. There are almost no knots in this area, and the density of the tree is greater than at the top.

To build a reliable and durable log house for a bathhouse with your own hands, select and prepare timber, taking into account our recommendations:

Discard trunks with obvious curvature, cracks or rot.
Do not take too thin or thick round timber. The diameter of the sawlog should be in the range of 20-35 cm (excluding bark).
Try to purchase winter lumber from forestries, as this wood contains more resins that resist decay.
Remove the bark from the logs with a special tool - a scraper, it least affects the tree.
After debarking, let the trunks dry for 3-4 days, otherwise you will have to draw marking lines on a wet surface, which is very inconvenient.

Sawlog diameter decreases from butt to top

When choosing logs, consider one important feature: the diameter of the trunk necessarily decreases from the butt to the top. The technical name of the phenomenon is taper, ideally it should not exceed 8 mm per 1 meter of running round timber.

Advice. It does not matter when the taper exceeds the specified value. Before cutting down the bath, you need to disassemble the logs into pairs with the same indicator, and during construction, lay them according to the butt - top - butt scheme. An experienced carpenter will tell you in detail about this laying technology in his video:

Tool for the job

Experienced craftsmen can deftly and quickly work with an ax, but even they now use power tools, which greatly facilitate the work in the construction of log structures. The optimal set of a carpenter-builder looks like this:

chain saw - electric or gasoline;
ax and hand saw;
wooden and ordinary hammer;
electric planer;
drill;
chisels of various sizes;
measuring instruments - tape measure, ruler, plumb line, square and building level.

To mark the trunks, you will also need a special device shown in the photo - a feature (otherwise - a scriber). To make it, you need to take a thick steel wire, sharpen the ends and bend in the form of a compass.

Foundation laying

Log houses are heavy structures, and therefore it is better for them to pour a strip-type concrete foundation. An exception is a mini-bath 3 x 3 m in size, under which you can make brick or block pillars, and then put the first crown on these cabinets. In other cases, it is necessary to mark the contours of the building on the ground and dig a trench 40-50 cm wide around the perimeter. You need to go deep to a stable layer of soil lying 0.5-1.5 m from the surface (depending on the region).

Seal the bottom of the trench and make a sand cushion 10-15 cm thick. Compact the sand too.
Make and install formwork from wooden panels, whose height should be equal to the level of the future plinth. To prevent the sides from moving apart, use supports made of timber and boards, as shown in the photo.
Cover the pit along with the formwork with plastic wrap so that the cement milk does not go into the ground when pouring.
From the reinforcement - "corrugated" Ø10-16 mm, tie the frames with cells 100 x 150 mm and place them in the trench. The lower reinforcement belt should be raised above the bottom due to spacers 4-5 cm high.

The pouring is carried out with concrete of a grade not lower than M150, prepared from 3 parts of sand and 5 of the same volumes of crushed stone per 1 measure of Portland cement M400. During the laying process, the concrete mixture is compacted with vibrators, and in their absence, with long steel rods. It will take 4 weeks for the base to harden, the formwork can be removed after 7-9 days.

Advice. In order not to have to cut or cut the logs of the first crown longitudinally and thereby reduce the durability of the structure, make a foundation tape at different levels. How this is implemented in practice, see the following video.

Installation of the first crown

The first step is to protect the wood from soaking and subsequent decay. To do this, lay a waterproofing of two layers of roofing material on the foundation, and treat the trunks with an antiseptic composition. It is also possible to make an additional padding from a bar 50-100 mm thick under the lower tier. Then the most interesting begins - the cutting of the crown crown.

There are several ways to join logs in the corners:

in the upper or lower bowl;
the same, with a hidden spike (tail tail);
in the paw;
using simple rectangular cutouts (the so-called Russian corner).

The simplest cutting of corners

Reference. Russian cutting methods are listed here, in addition to them, Canadian and Norwegian technology is used, but it is more difficult to perform.

Bowl cutout

The connection with a rectangular groove, shown in the photo, is suitable only for the construction of a barn. Due to direct gaps, even if they are caulked, such an angle will turn out to be cold, which is unacceptable for a bath. Docking "in the paw" is more reliable, but is rarely used by modern carpenters because of the complexity. For beginners, we suggest mastering a relatively simple and “warm” option - cutting into the upper bowl with a hidden spike, otherwise - into a flail.

Before assembling the flashing crown, it is necessary to cut the round timber along the entire length in order to increase the contact area with the foundation. The width of the contact patch should be at least 12 cm. To ensure it, lay the log on a concrete strip and mark it with a line resting at one end on the foundation surface.

Drawing a line with a scriber

To speed up the work, make cross cuts with a chain saw every 10-15 cm, then cut the wood along and cut down the excess with an ax. Make a fine selection with an electric planer, or better with a scraper.

Advice. In the center of the beveled side, try to make a hollow up to 5 mm deep for a good seal. How the master does it, you should watch the video:

Now let's look at how to cut the corner of the crown crown:

Lay the trunks in the design position, one on top of the other, and align them horizontally with the help of pads. Mark the contours of the bowl in the upper log with a line, leaning with the second end on the lower one. Its depth is equal to half the diameter of the supporting round timber, which is shown in the diagram.
The maximum height of the hidden longitudinal spike is 5 cm. Also mark it before sawing.
Using a chainsaw, make several transverse cuts, not reaching the marking lines by 3-5 mm.
Cut off the excess wood and clean the edges of the bowl with an ax strictly along the line. Form a spike in the same way, and cut a groove on the counter log.

An important point. During the erection of the log cabin of the bath, the finishing teska is made with an ax or a staple, mechanized processing is used only for the formation of cups and grooves. The fact is that electric planers, grinders and chain saws strongly open wood fibers, where moisture is subsequently absorbed.

When all 4 corners are cut down, the trunks are laid on a foundation with a layer of moss or jute fiber (it is also stuffed into the joints of lumber) and tightly seated in the grooves using a wooden manual rammer. Please note: the connection with a concrete base is not used, the structure is rigidly fixed on the groove-thorn joints and stands confidently due to its decent weight.

Walling

The remaining crowns are mounted on the salary using the same technology - bowls with spikes are cut out at the corners, which cover the logs of the previous tier. After a dense nozzle with a moss lining, an additional connection with wooden dowels is required, they are also dowels.

Note. Traditional technology does not include any of the metal connectors often used by today's builders. Being in the thickness of the tree, the cold metal is covered with condensate, causing rust and accelerated decay of timber.

Moss is the best interventional insulation for a chopped bath

A few words about how to assemble the second and subsequent log crowns:

The lower part of the trunks is not hemmed evenly, but in the form of a semicircle in order to clearly cover the previous round timber.
When marking, lay the logs in such a way that the centers of all wall elements are on the same vertical.
Do the cutting of cups and grooves with an allowance of 8-10 mm for laying the sealant - wild moss, felt or jute.
After forming the bowls, try on each barrel in place. If it fits with a gap of more than 5 mm, an adjustment will have to be made. The whole process is shown in more detail in the video:

So that in the process of shrinkage and further operation, the chopped bath does not squint from the horizontal movement of the elements, they must be fastened together with dowels. These are rods carved from dry wood with a diameter of 22-30 mm, hammered into vertical holes after laying each crown. Hole drilling step - 0.8-1 m, depth - at least 2 log diameters. In order not to fall into the previous dowels during subsequent drilling and driving, they should be placed in a checkerboard pattern.

Vertical connection of crowns with dowels

When you need to grow a log in length, use one of two connection methods - a root tenon and a dovetail. In the first case, the vertical groove and spike at the end of the log are rectangular in shape, and in the second case, they are trapezoidal, which is shown in the photo. When joining the elements of the outer walls, a clearance of 8 mm must be provided for the sealing packing.

Splicing with root tenon (left) and dovetail (right)

An important point. After laying the connected trunks into the wall of the log house, the joint must be shingled on both sides.

The log walls of the bath are covered from above with a gable roof. It is easier to assemble it from bars and boards, which is described in detail. You can make a truss system from logs, but this process is much more complicated.

Pit of openings

There are 2 ways of edging door and window openings:

Into the deck. In this case, a spike measuring 5 x 5 cm is formed along the perimeter of the opening, on which the casing is subsequently attached.
With a mortgage bar. A groove is cut along the ends of the logs, where a mortgage beam is then installed for mounting the pigtail.

The first option is more expensive and time-consuming - shortening the logs for sawing out the spike must be provided for even at the construction stage of the bath. The casing box is made with an internal groove, which is mounted on the finished crest. Along the perimeter, the pigtail is sealed with the same material that was used for interventional insulation (caulking).

The second method is implemented after the construction of the log house by cutting a groove in the ends of the round timber. Then a mortgage beam is hammered into it, forming the same spike. The further procedure for installing the box is repeated, as shown in the diagram.

Conclusion

If, in the process of building a log house with your own hands, you follow the above technology and work without haste, then you will surely get a solid and strong bathhouse that will last for decades. But do not rush to put the building into operation - the log structure needs to stand for at least 1 year to shrink. After that, you can do the caulking of the joints and the internal arrangement of the bath rooms.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.