A bed on a compost heap. We make warm compost beds with our own hands. Turning ordinary garden beds into compost

A rare garden does without a compost heap. And where else to put the grass torn from the beds? If land management is carried out using book methods, then either throw it out of the site, or prepare it from waste.

The happiness of the summer resident, if the land turned out to be virgin, that is, it had not been plowed before, it was not planted on it. These were wastelands and inconveniences. Garbage was taken out by KAMAZ, not every tractor driver agreed to plow, being afraid of a piece of iron in the depths. But what harvests were!

Not everyone received a new plot for use, more often than not one generation grew cabbage there before it. But everyone knew (or rather thought they knew) how to make compost, how to use it. Problems with phytosanitary purity were not immediately discovered, because no one even had any thoughts that they had made fertilizer with their own hands. Who has thought about what happens in the compost bin or heap? None! This was not written about in the books.

What is the harm of compost

In the compost, as in the manure heap, rotting processes take place. Would you say that they also exist in nature? True, but is it possible to compare the decomposition of one leaf and a ton of greenery in compost pit? In nature, there are beneficial microorganisms that do not allow pathogens to take over. And there are no natural protectors in the compost bin.

What do they usually put in it? Any garden and kitchen waste. Weed grass, tomato stepchildren, squash lashes, which are usually removed from the garden at the end of fruiting due to the fact that the leaves have turned gray.

Spoiled bread with a moldy smell. Of course, with obvious signs of rot, no one will throw a specially moldy piece there. But are our eyes like a microscope and can see everything at high magnification? While the mycelium develops in a piece of bread, you will not notice it, but it will sprout in a heap!

There are methods that considered suitable for soil disinfection for seedlings:

Pour in boiling water.
Ignite in the oven.
Warm up on a baking sheet or pan.
Treat with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Gardeners do this. And what do you get as a result:

humic acids - the natural fertility of the soil, are destroyed at a temperature of + 45 ... + 55 ° C;
soil nutrients and capillaries are destroyed, beneficial microorganisms die;
pathogenic microorganisms are more resistant, especially putrefactive ones.

We draw a conclusion! There is so little sense from such thermal procedures that it is not worth starting them.

Compost in the usual way: laborious and time consuming

So much has already been written about the preparation of compost in heaps, boxes and pits that we will dwell on these methods only for a minute. It's easy to write, but hard to do.

First, calculate how much money it will take to make wooden walls taking into account the decay of wood. How many years is enough? Will he have enough strength to stir up a heavy mass in a box? It is usually understood that this is difficult, therefore another box is installed nearby in order to simply transfer the contents from the first to the second. At the same time, it is necessary to disassemble the boards by about half the height, otherwise not everyone will master the work. And almost a handful of compost will be prepared, and even that one also needs to be spread on the beds. Pulling out of the pit for tedding or throwing into another pit is even harder. And I am a supporter of minimal work in terms of labor intensity and time.

Compost the easy way: learning from nature

You can make your work easier if you go on an excursion into the forest. The best time is the end of summer - the beginning of autumn, when mushrooms grow. Where a lot of mushrooms are located in one long pile on the ground, a tree that has fallen several years ago lies under the grass. No one hid it, no one dug a hole for it - it lay on top and itself went under the soil.

In nature, there are mechanisms that regulate the ratio of beneficial and pathogenic microorganisms, because every year everything blooms and turns green. So, the most beneficial thing is to leave all plant waste in place. If you want to make the site beautiful, then it is better to rake them into the beds. This is both, and protection at the same time. We believe that we have learned how to make compost from nature.

How to make compost beds

What is the difference between a bed of plant debris and a compost heap? AT compost heap(pit) everything rots. Not in the trash can. There go almost natural processes: grasses begin to grow, find food earthworms, wood lice, vegetables grow there, releasing special substances from the roots to create forms that are convenient for themselves nutrients. For beds, this option looks like this: along the ridge in the middle, you need to dig a ditch with a flat cutter, deep enough to put all the greenery in it, which has already outlived its age. From above, with the same flat cutter, throw the soil that was removed from the ditch. Everything, the compost pit is ready.

What is the benefit of such a design? There are few plant residues, there will be no decay processes - they will not have time to break out - earthworms will take everything away and process it. So it will take only one autumn and one winter to get not compost in a pit, but a bed fertilized with compost. The time will come to sow cabbage or plant tomatoes in the ground, and the garden bed is already waiting for you.

You can do a more laborious option. From two adjacent beds, build soil shafts, put vegetable raw materials between them, slightly alternating it with soil. You can put branches, branches, sawdust here, but you must cover them with earth.

On the sides of such rollers, you can grow something, such as dill or lettuce. And in the space between them in the spring sow pumpkins or zucchini, tomatoes will also like it. But here heavy earthworks many times more. There is another simple option: you need to build a mound out of greenery and kitchen waste. How much greenery there is, such a mound will turn out to be such a height. It can turn out to be of impressive size if the trees froze out in winter, and trunks and gnarled branches had to be removed. This "wealth" must be laid at the base of the hill. From above - the tops of potatoes, tomatoes, then pumpkin lashes, sometimes throwing up land for communication, although this is not necessary. You can water and trample, but you won’t trample down to the state of asphalt anyway. Most upper layer- the soil.

And immediately we sow or plant, but under each root we must make a wide-mouthed cone with a cutting of a flat cutter to fill the ground. All! And the compost is being prepared, and the vegetables are growing.

Humates for soil improvement

If you do not use manure and humus, in garden soil new portions of the infection do not fall. The soil itself can improve, but it will take quite a long time. To speed up the process will help - natural compounds, which are the essence of the soil.

What are they doing:

a huge amount of nutrients (in snow, hoarfrost, soil) is in a form inaccessible to plants. Humates will collect everything together, turn it into a form that is available to plants. At the same time, they will also help you choose the desired element from the entire list, save the gardener from buying and adding them to the soil of the beds;
reduce the acidity of the soil, thereby freeing it from the wireworm and the most malicious weeds (horsetail, horse sorrel);
clean the soil from pathogenic microorganisms;
preserve useful soil microflora, restore the real collective of soil inhabitants;
do not allow to accumulate harmful substances in plant fruits.

It is important! After all, until now, all smart books say that plant nutrition is mineral, but in fact it is carbon-hydrogen-nitrogen. All these substances plants extract from the air! Nitrogen helps to get soil bacteria if they are not killed with mineral fertilizers, manure and compost mixed with ammonia.

Conclusion: the less work we do, the more harvest we get! Tell your gardening friends how you can make it easier to prepare compost that is good for plants and soil.

Here are some more interesting and helpful posts.

Most gardeners who prepare compost for themselves in heaps are convinced that plants need, first of all, humus. That's why they compost. However, they do not take into account the losses that inevitably occur in the process of such composting. In the compost heap, when organic matter decomposes, first of all, carbon dioxide is lost.

And all this for the sake of obtaining humus. As a result, gardeners oppose carbon dioxide nutrition to mineral nutrition. I think that it is impossible to oppose these types of food. If there is not enough mineral nutrition, then the plants will be weak, underdeveloped. If they lack carbon dioxide nutrition, the result will be the same. To receive maximum yield it is necessary that these two types of nutrition be provided to the maximum extent possible. Experienced gardeners know: if you increase the number carbon dioxide in the air directly near the plants, then the yield will increase in proportion to this increase. Why, then, create an overabundance of mineral nutrition, if an insufficient amount of carbon dioxide will still hold back the growth of the crop? An increase in the amount of humus and mineral solutions due to the loss of carbon dioxide in this case is an extra, vain work.

On my site, composting takes place in the immediate vicinity of the plants - in the paths. Therefore, carbon dioxide is not lost, but absorbed by plants. At the same time, the formation of humus and nutrient solutions also occurs near the plants themselves - all decomposition products of organic matter are used as fully and harmoniously as possible. I see benefits in this. compost lanes. In one of the publications, I came across the statement: “It is possible to raise the level of carbon dioxide in the near-surface layer of the atmosphere without the use of green mulch by increasing the population of soil microorganisms in the soil of the ridges by applying them with EM preparations. This is easier to do than collecting and laying out green organic matter.”

I don't think it's possible to put the question this way. In order for carbon dioxide to be released, first of all, organic matter is needed. Just in order to be what to digest. And it is just as important that there are those in the soil who will digest it. If there is no one thing, then the process will not go. If one of the components is not enough, the process will go extremely sluggishly.

Proponents of organic composting in heaps most often introduce completely decomposed compost into the soil. There is already very little undecomposed organic matter in such compost. This means that the process of carbon dioxide formation will go weakly in the beds. To enhance this process, unfermented organic matter is needed on the surface of the ridges - mulch. So, in this case, it is pointless to discuss which is easier, to introduce organic matter or effective microorganisms. You need both. A fragment from another publication: “A bed plus a passage - 1 meter. The width of the passage between the ridges of less than 70 cm does not give any positive result(Mittlider). Plants in the outer rows get more food from the air (carbon dioxide) because the air near the aisles is constantly being renewed. Inside the ridge, the air stagnates or is weakly renewed. It is in this, and not in the compost of the passages, that the reason for the greater yield of the outer rows. Wide passages between the ridges will ensure a constant exchange of air around each of the plants, the wind increases the yield.”

This author refers to Mittlider as an irrefutable authority. And in this case, I consider his recommendation, for Mittlider method very important. But precisely for the Mittlider method. What caused the need for a constant exchange of air around each plant? Everything is very simple. Application mineral fertilizers on a sterile substrate does not contribute to the formation of carbon dioxide. Mittlider: "The passages are never loosened, watered, fertilized, they are only tightly trampled down by your walking on them." This means that microbiological activity in the passages is also extremely depressed. Consequently, when the air is stagnant, the concentration of carbon dioxide in the surface space drops - it is consumed by plants. This may reduce the yield. In order to prevent a decrease in yield, it is precisely what is needed to constantly renew the air - to bring in carbon dioxide from the outside. Mittlider's recommendation - good decision when applying his methods: since his methods do not increase the concentration of carbon dioxide, then you need to attract him from outside. Often used in greenhouses different ways increasing the concentration of carbon dioxide - special burners, cylinders with liquefied carbon dioxide, barrels with decaying organics and other devices.

Now let's consider the option organic vegetable garden with composting in heaps. Lost during composting large quantity carbon dioxide. Then the compost is applied to the ridges. Soil inhabitants constantly work in the ridges, decomposing the remains of organic matter that did not have time to decompose in the compost heap. This results in the release of carbon dioxide. But wide passages between the ridges will ensure a constant exchange of air around each of the plants. And carbon dioxide safely flies to the neighbors. Why don't they use carbon dioxide cylinders in open field? Yes, because it's useless. The gas is distributed in the air, moves to other areas, in short - is wasted. The same thing happens with the gas that microbes emit in the beds with constant air movement - it also goes to waste. So what happens: the wind increases the crop? Mittlider's, yes. On beds filled with compost - no. The wind just carries the carbon dioxide away. I am not talking about other gases of the atmosphere, because they are in abundance in the air to feed plants. To get the maximum yield in the atmosphere, only carbon dioxide is always missing. So do not artificially reduce its concentration.

AT wild nature vast expanses of grass thickets, without a single mittlider's path, are full of health, they all say that they feel good in this "wild" Nature. Why do they not need intensive air exchange? Because under them there is always a layer of organic mulch - food for microbes and other soil inhabitants, which replenish the surface layer of air with the missing carbon dioxide. This is exactly the same endless cylinder of carbon dioxide.

For myself, I concluded - in terms of carbon dioxide wide mittlider paths, trampled down, without a single weed, devoid of organic matter - the worst option. If the paths are turfed or under mulch, then this is already much better. In my opinion, best option- narrower paths in which the organic composting process takes place. This conclusion does not concern the issue of convenience: it is undoubtedly more convenient to walk along wide paths.

By no means am I advocating redesigning your garden layout. If for some reason only wide, bare paths are acceptable to you, then no problem - create a system of wings that prevent the wind. Most effective option – green hedge This will reduce the loss of carbon dioxide. Another quote from the publication: "The passages are never loosened, watered, fertilized, they are only tightly trampled down by your walking on them." Apparently it works well on sandy soil. On my loam, after the rain, you can’t walk along such a path - mud. Don't go in the spring. Paths under organic matter are much more convenient in this regard. They are always clean. The top layer -3-5 cm is always dry. Even after rain it dries very quickly. This top layer does not overheat precisely because it is dry. On loam, such paths are a clear advantage.

Another disadvantage, in my opinion, of clean wide rammed paths is that a huge amount of moisture is lost from their surface. In summer they get very hot. In our area at the end of June, such paths are covered with cracks up to 20 cm deep and a finger thick. Such paths work to overheat the beds. The opposite situation develops if the paths are covered with mulch. Compost paths have a minor drawback - they take longer than bare paths to warm up in the spring. But for development cultivated plants it doesn't affect. The beds are raised, and due to this they heat up quickly. This is enough for small plants - root system still small.

Good luck everyone!

Oleg Telepov, member of the Omsk Club of Potato Growers

“Prepare the sleigh in the summer and the cart in the winter,” says a Russian proverb. So we make warm beds in the fall for planting next spring.

What is a warm bed

A warm bed is, in fact, an improved compost heap. The bed consists of several layers of plant residues (weeds, fallen leaves, plant stems, branches, etc.). During decomposition, heat is released, which helps the roots of plants to endure changes in spring temperatures. In addition, plant residues are an excellent organic fertilizer.

A warm bed is easy to do with your own hands

A warm bed, compared to a conventional one, has several advantages:

all organic remains (fallen leaves, weeds, plant stems, branches, etc.) are placed in warm beds;
no need to dig and weed the bed - weeds practically do not grow on it;
fertilizing the bed for 4 seasons is not required - decaying organic matter provides plants with all the nutrients;
carbon dioxide released during decay of waste improves the photosynthesis of plants growing in the garden;
sowing seeds and planting seedlings in more early dates due to the heating of the soil by decaying plant residues;
plants on a warm bed are not afraid return frosts.

The only disadvantage of warm beds is the time and effort spent on its manufacture. But this shortcoming is compensated by the early high yield large fruits.

I have in the area clay soil, high level ground water. Therefore, the manufacture of warm (high) beds is a salvation for me.

A warm bed can be made in spring, but autumn - the best time for its manufacture. Lots of autumn organic waste and more free time.

Why do you need a warm bed

In spring, the soil warms up much more slowly than the air. Therefore, the planting of heat-loving crops is postponed for more late time, and to get early harvest does not always succeed. Seedlings are planted on a warm bed three weeks earlier than on a regular one. In addition, plants easily withstand return frosts down to -5 o C.

On such a bed, plants develop well, practically do not get sick. The fruits grow large, the yield increases.

The structure and composition of the soil is improved, which allows you to get a decent harvest even on poor soils. Wetlands provide good drainage.

A warm bed can be made both in open ground and in a greenhouse. The garden prepared in autumn is ready for spring plantings next year.

How to make a warm bed in the fall: step by step instructions

When making a warm bed, follow certain rules:

The bed should have drainage that provides air exchange. Therefore, the lowest layer consists of large branches, hard stems (Jerusalem artichoke, corn, etc.), roots of uprooted trees, etc.
The bed should not dry out. Before laying the next layer, spill the previous one well.
Plant residues must be healthy and without seeds.
The place where you plan to make warm beds should be well lit by the sun. best location- from east to west.
The bed is made 90–120 cm wide. The distance between the beds should be 30–50 cm, for easy movement between them.
Cover the bed with a film (preferably black) on top so that the weed seeds are not blown by the wind and they do not germinate in the spring.

Trench bed

Dig a trench at least 40 cm deep, 1 m wide. Make the length of the beds as you wish.
First, dig a trench at least 40 cm deep
Lay large branches (previously chopped into pieces), rough stems of plants, tree roots, etc., on the bottom of the trench.
Lay drainage in the form of branches, stems, etc. at the bottom of the trench
On top, lay a layer consisting of weeds, tops, rotten vegetables and fruits, food waste and fallen leaves.
Lay a layer of tops, weeds, fallen leaves, etc. in the bed
Lay the next layer of rotted manure or matured compost.

Why do plants thrive in some gardens and barely survive in others? The reason lies in not enough fertile land. Articles about planting or caring for vegetables often talk about adding compost to the soil. As the plant grows, it takes up various nutrients from the soil. When harvesting in the fall, part of the nutrients are taken from the soil with the tops of plants, they also contain substances that are in the ground, thereby depleting the soil even more. According to the laws of nature, everything that is taken out of the soil must be returned back there. Otherwise, the land will become poorer and its natural fertility will inevitably decrease. Soil composting solves this problem.

There are hardly any people who do not know the meaning of this word. Compost is an organic fertilizer, which is obtained as a result of the decomposition of organic waste, mainly of plant origin. These include plant waste (tops of plants, weeds, fallen leaves, mowed grass) and food waste (,), etc. It is not recommended to use waste of animal origin, plastic, glass, metal for composting.

The biochemical reactions that occur during the decomposition of waste occur due to rapidly multiplying microorganisms and. The compost heap is a living bioreactor. The main condition for all reactions occurring there is the presence of heat and moisture. The process of obtaining valuable fertilizer is called composting. After the completion of the composting process, a highly nutritious mixture containing minerals and valuable trace elements is obtained, similar to humus. Ripe compost is a homogeneous crumbly material dark brown.

Basic rules for good compost

Most the right way recycling food and plant waste from your site - this is a compost bin. With its help, you can ensure the competent movement of organic waste, and get free fertilizer with high content humus and nutrients.

Compost can be made in the form of a compost heap, in the garden, in bags. Whichever way we decide to make compost, there are certain rules for its preparation. The technology is pretty much the same everywhere.

A compost heap, or rather a compost bin, is a box, a wooden box where all the waste is stored. Following the rules, you will get a good nutrient mixture in 1.5-2 years. So what do you need to know?

You can form a compost bin not only in summer, but at any time of the year. The exception will be cold days with frosts. For example, right from the beginning of spring, you can compost all organic matter as it forms. In autumn, during this period, there are especially many different wastes (tops of plants, leaf litter etc.), which can also be composted. Diseased plants should not be used in compost. It is better to burn them, and use only the ashes from them.
When forming a compost heap or bed, the soil under them must be loosened to a depth of about 30 cm. This is necessary in order to create close contact of decaying organic matter with earthworms and other organisms involved in composting.
You need to place the compost bin in partial shade, so that it is not constantly under the sun, otherwise it will dry out.
For rapid decomposition, it is better to grind all the material. This way the whole composting process will go much faster.
For quick decomposition, it is good to add the Baikal-M biological product to the waste.

How to make compost

Any material is used for the walls of the compost bin - boards, bricks, old metal sheets, slate. Remember that the bottom cannot be closed, it must be earthen. There should be slots or openings in the side walls for air circulation. Box dimensions: width - 1.5 m, height no more than 1 m, the length of the box is made depending on the amount of waste. The correct box has 3 compartments:

The first compartment stores fresh waste;
In the second - last year's ripening;
In the 3rd compartment there is compost ready for use.

The composting technology itself is simple. The more diverse the waste that is stacked in layers, the more complete and better the decomposition will go. It is not good to stack only one cut grass, the composting process will not start. Therefore, plant residues that are rich in carbon should be combined with manure or bone meal rich in nitrogen. Therefore, be sure to sprinkle the grass with earth.

The layers in the heap must alternate.

Shrub branches, hay, tree bark are laid at the bottom;
1st layer - a layer of food and plant waste about 15 cm thick;
2nd layer - manure, bone flour a layer of about 5 cm;
Lime is sprinkled on top or, and then a 2 cm layer of earth.

In this sequence, lay out all the waste until they run out. Most last layer- earth, hay, straw or leaves. They protect against drying out.

An important point - the water from the box must be removed, and the air must circulate. Otherwise, the contents of the box will not decompose, but rot.

How to prepare a compost bed

It is better to make a compost bed in the fall, using wooden boxes for this. Their size depends on preferences and the amount of waste. A bed filled with waste will turn out neat. The advantage of this method lies in the fact that next year a wooden box can be moved to another place and there again make a new bed.

The principle of filling the beds is the same as in the compost bin (compost heap). Branches, tops of plants are laid at the bottom, then various plant wastes are laid in layers. Since the decomposition process requires moisture and heat, the bed is covered from above with a film or oilcloth, preferably black. It is necessary to make holes in the film in which you will plant, for example, zucchini or pumpkin in the spring. If the film is transparent, then cover it with boards or old slate for the winter. And in summer the soil will be covered with plant leaves.

By autumn, a loose homogeneous material of dark brown color and with the smell of forest land is obtained in the garden.

Making compost in bags

How many fallen leaves disappear in autumn? But it will make an excellent nutrient mixture for the garden. Making compost in bags is quite simple.

Autumn fallen leaves are preferable for leaf humus, because raw foliage undergoes the decomposition process faster. So, armed with a rake, we collect fallen leaves from under the trees. For the most part harvested leaves and other winter crops. In the spring, all this will be collected and sent to the compost heap.

There are so many leaves every year that you can make compost in bags. We put the rest of the collected foliage in large bags for household waste. We tie the bags tightly so that moisture does not evaporate from them. Remember that air is needed for better decomposition. Therefore, we pierce the bags filled with foliage with a pitchfork 2-3 times. In plastic bags are created comfortable conditions for processing bacteria. If it got into the bags green grass, then this is good, fungal bacteria will speed up the process. Also, to accelerate decomposition, the Baikal-M preparation can be added to the bags.

Bags of leaves are removed for storage and winter freezing. This, too, will only benefit. Some pests and some pathogens die. And in the spring, this mass can be sent to compost heaps or added to the garden. Or be patient when, in six months or a year, the foliage will turn into humus.

Compost in barrels

Another way to make compost in barrels. Here you can add all the weeded weeds from the garden. As a result, after overheating, you get a nutrient mixture - humus, which can be used to fertilize the beds.

Feeding a goat is easy. In summer there are no problems with food. If there is a pasture, then the issue of feeding, in general, disappears. The edge of the forest, an abandoned field, an ownerless flower bed - nothing special is required for a goat. Sedge, acacia and any grass goes to the goat for food. In nature, goats pluck the mountain slopes, which are very poor (in terms of food). With the stall content of goats, the issue of nutrition is more complex, but completely solvable. How and what to feed goats in winter and summer, we will tell in this article.

Many gardeners traditionally carry out early spring spraying on still dormant plants. But the second half of autumn is quite suitable for this. In addition, autumn cold weather is more comfortable for gardening. And in many regions, you need to remember that spring can come quickly, and the right moment in the turmoil of gardening will be missed. So that, late fall, but before the onset of frost, perhaps the most successful period for rooting treatments in the garden.

I cook blackberry jam with lemon in early September, when the fruits of aronia chokeberry ripen, which many mistakenly consider mountain ash. There is an outward resemblance to mountain ash, but chokeberry and mountain ash are distant relatives, this is not the same thing. Aronia fruits are medicinal raw materials, they contain B vitamins, vitamin C, many useful microelements. Chokeberry goes well with citruses and apples, in this recipe - with lemon, if desired, you can also add an orange to the lemon.

We moved to the Kuban. We bought a house with a plot on the edge of the forest. We need to bring life. We have a dog and a cat, we brought them with us. We don't need a cow, we need 3 liters of milk a week. A goat does not fit these parameters either. Rabbits are still possible, they are soft and fluffy, they eat only grass and vegetables, but they multiply very quickly - what to do with them later? The hand on them, soft and fluffy, will not rise, and the prospect of an Australian rabbit tragedy is frightening. The bees remain.

The arrival of autumn does not bring as much trouble in the garden as spring, but there are activities that will help relieve the hot spring period and lay the foundations for a future abundant harvest. And first of all, you need to take care of the soil. In this article I will tell you exactly what kind of autumn work I spend in the garden, decorative and orchard. Maybe something on my must-have list autumn work will come as a surprise to you and will bring great practical benefits.

The fiery beauty of the column is becoming more and more popular. This plant also has good greenery, but the fire of flowering, covering flexible shoots - here true purpose growing familiar to all exotic. Columnea is one of the most difficult plants. Its signals are not always obvious, and violations in growth or development do not appear immediately. But if you try to follow the plant and go from the opposite - to avoid misses, a vivid sight abundant flowering quite achievable.

pickled cucumbers under a plastic cover - the easiest way to harvest cucumbers for the winter. Pickling is one of the oldest methods of preserving vegetables by lactic acid fermentation. This ancient method of preserving seasonal stocks is still used today. The lactic acid formed during the fermentation process preserves vegetables with salt - it gives the products a specific smell and taste, and prevents the growth of extraneous bacteria. Cucumbers are sharp and very tasty.

The arrival of autumn does not mean that the brightly colored plants in the garden have to disappear along with the last hot days. Choosing carefully perennials for flower beds, you can keep your presence fresh flowers in his area almost before the start of winter. If you want to freshen up your flower beds for the beginning of autumn, then these plants will surely arouse your interest. Some of them are already well known to flower growers, and some are among the new products that are gaining popularity.

Rosehip is an unpretentious close relative of the rose. It grows well in the wild, and its terry representative can often be found as ornamental plant parks or private gardens. AT recent times the plant is becoming increasingly popular among gardeners due to its rich vitamin and mineral composition. In this article I will talk about the benefits of rose hips, how and when to collect, dry, store and brew tea properly.

Creamy pumpkin soup with chickpeas is suitable for a vegetarian and lean menu. I also advise supporters of a healthy lifestyle to include this soup in their diet. It has all the necessary useful material- vitamins, trace elements and vegetable protein, which is easily absorbed by our body. On a cold autumn day, a bowl of thick cream soup will warm you up, restore your strength, and give you energy. This soup "with a spark", a burning note is given to it by ginger root and chili pepper.

For houseplants, the transitional seasons are among the most critical periods in growing. And if spring changes are usually for the better, autumn is a period of great risk. Decrease daylight hours and lighting quality, temperature fluctuations, start heating season require special correction of the care program. Basis for success autumn care behind indoor plants– constant monitoring of their condition and growth slowdown rates.

Apple pancakes with cottage cheese are juicy and tender, they are prepared in 15 minutes. This dish can be quickly made for breakfast and served with sour cream - hearty and delicious, or served as a dessert at lunch, for dinner with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or whipped cream. Who said that potato pancakes are made only from potatoes? Apple pancakes are even tastier, and that's a completely different story! From personal experience- You do not need a lot of flour, apples feel great without it.

Autumn is a great time for planting and transplanting perennial flowers, especially if it's time to divide them - they have grown so much that they began to lose their decorative effect. Another reason to divide perennials in a flower garden is to get several plants instead of one. And autumn reproduction by division has a significant advantage over spring - seated divisions adapt to a new place of residence even before winter, and in spring they actively start growing and bloom in the first season.

Tomato and pepper satsebeli - a thick Georgian sauce. This seasoning is from the "dumpling" category. Translated from the Georgian "satsebeli" - sauce, in the meaning of the word - "dunk", hence the version that any sauce in Georgia is called satsebeli. You can eat the sauce with anything, it will suit both meat and fish. For making homemade tortillas with filling (lavash, pita and other goodies), this is an ideal addition to barbecue, of course, you can’t imagine anything better!