Chainlink mesh - perfect material for the construction of a light fence or fence. The sun's rays pass through it perfectly, so it can often be found when fencing beds and gardens. It is also often used to divide the territories of neighboring areas. Installing a fence using chain-link mesh does not require special knowledge and skills. In order to install such a fence, you just need to study the technology of its construction. And everyone can handle the construction itself.
Chainlink mesh - what kind of “fruit”
Chain-link is a metal construction raw material, durable and inexpensive when compared with wood or corrugated sheeting. You can purchase such a net at any hardware store. It is produced in a roll. This is one of the advantages of purchasing such material; it is very convenient to transport.
There is no need to hire specialized construction crews to install a chain-link fence. Even a schoolboy can build it. And you can do this in two ways: sectional installation and the material tension method.
The advantages of this material include the following qualities:
- this is an inexpensive material.
- no special skills are needed to build a fence from it. Easy and simple to build.
- the area is not hidden from sun rays.
- The chain-link has a long service life.
- To decorate such a fence, you can let climbing plants grow along it.
- Having installed such a fence, you will not need to repair it, tint it, etc.
Everything would be fine, but such material also has disadvantages:
- It's hard to hide your privacy behind a net. To do this, it needs to be decorated, for example, with climbing plants.
- no soundproofing properties.
- If you install non-galvanized mesh, it will rust quite quickly.
Types of mesh (table)
| Type name | Description | Photo |
| Non-galvanized network | Most cheap material from those presented. Only temporary fences are made with it, because rust quickly appears on it, often even as soon as the first rains have passed. Its service life is no more than three to four years. Of course, such a mesh can be painted or coated with water-repellent agents. But this needs to be repeated with some frequency. And in the end it can cost much more than purchasing a galvanized type | |
| Galvanized network | It is initially protected from moisture. Visually more attractive when compared with the previous chain link. It looks beautiful on a sectional fence. Naturally, it costs a little more than the non-galvanized version. But the game is worth the trouble. This option is much more practical, because its service life is many times longer, and there is no need to tint it. | |
| Plasticized | Mesh with special polymer coating, which is not subject to corrosion. This coating is not only very durable, but also has a wide color scheme. It is possible to choose a color that will match, for example, the roof of a house. Most often you can see blue and green chain-link. Less often red, white or yellow |
What materials need to be purchased, drawing
Pay attention to your choice support posts. The most convenient pipes are made of metal with a square cross-section. There are pipes on which the manufacturer himself has already welded hooks for the mesh. Some people use old pipes onto which they weld these hooks themselves.
Calculation of the required amount of materials
Most often, a net 150 centimeters wide with cells of 4–5 centimeters is used to construct a fence. The length of a standard roll is 10 meters. To prevent sagging of the fence, support posts are installed at a distance of 200–250 centimeters from each other. Therefore, five posts are needed for one roll. The support posts should stick out above the ground 100 millimeters above the chain-link mesh. They should go 1/3 of their length into the ground.
Now it is clear that to build, for example, a 30-meter fence, you need to purchase 3 rolls of chain-link and 16 posts 230–150 centimeters long. Each post must have at least three hooks. If they are on the poles initially, then no problem. And if they are not there, then they need to be welded. Therefore, we multiply 16 pillars by 3 hooks for each, we get 48 hooks. They need to be purchased and attached to the poles using a welding machine.
If the fence is planned to be sectional, then the number of sections is set based on the fact that the length of one is 200–250 centimeters, the width is 150 centimeters. Knowing these parameters, we can calculate required quantity metal corners, which, by the way, also have recommended requirements. It is most convenient to use 4x4 centimeter corners, the thickness of which is 5 millimeters.
We install a tension chain-link fence
A tension fence can be installed much faster than a sectional one and will be less expensive. To erect a fence, you just need to mark the area, prepare holes for support posts, install these posts and mount the mesh on hooks. Let's look at the process step by step.
Even if you have really stretched the mesh very well, it will still sag over time. To avoid this, you simply need to pass reinforcing wire or long steel rods through the meshes of the chain-link. They must be threaded through the cells across the entire perimeter of the fence, leaving 50–70 millimeters from the top edge of the mesh, and welded to the support posts.
Some people also thread such wire along the lower edge of the chain-link 200 millimeters from the surface of the ground.
DIY sectional fence
First you need to mark and install the support posts. The process is practically no different from the previous one. Is it possible that it is not hooks that are attached to the posts, but special metal plates measuring 150x50 millimeters and 5 millimeters thick. They must be welded one at a time on top and bottom of the support column, retreating 200 millimeters from the edge.
When welding a section to the supports, try to place the welding points at the same level. Even the most minimal deviation will be clearly visible and the aesthetic appearance will be lost.
Decorating the fence (table)
| Decoration option | Description | Photo |
| Colored chain link | This is the easiest way to personalize your fence. You can paint it yourself or purchase it already painted. This also includes plasticized mesh. A competent choice of shade will perfectly complement overall design your site | |
| climbing plants | This method is also quite simple and popular among summer residents. You can grow bindweed, climatis or morning glory along the grid. Chain-link mesh - very good support for these types of plants. Thus, the rather boring fence comes to life and is transformed. Naturally, it looks beautiful only in warm time year. In winter, the fence will lose its attractiveness. Such a fence will hide your privacy from neighbors' eyes for a while | |
| Plant trees and shrubs around the perimeter | This option, like the previous one, is classified as “ hedge" Only some types of plants remain green in the cold, and the fence will not lose its attractiveness. They plant thuja, yew, climbing rose, rosehip, spirea. Often the choice falls on fruit-bearing plants, for example, blackberries, barberries, chokeberry and others. Naturally, such a fence requires constant care. This decorative design the fence, too, like the previous one, will protect you from the eyes passing by | |
| Decorative chain link | There is a company in Denmark that produces fences. They came up with such a network. In it, the wire is woven so that various patterns are obtained that look like lace from a distance. | |
| Garden on the fence | You can easily hang various pots and flower containers on the mesh. Sometimes garden plants are planted in them. The second option will appeal to those who have a small land plot. As a result, it’s beautiful and useful, and because of the fence no one can see what you’re doing on the site | |
| Street art | Many people have old skeins of knitting thread at home. They can be used to “cross stitch” on the fence mesh. This way you get interesting, individual and bright fences. This decoration option is gaining popularity in Europe and is already considered urban art. Why not decorate our fences this way? Moreover, it is quite cheap | |
| Photo grid | Using a polymer mesh with an image printed on it will help you quickly give the fence an individual and beautiful view. It is durable, not afraid of bad weather, and the color does not fade. The pattern on the mesh is located on one side only. On the other hand, the chain link is white. |
Video: self-installation of a tension chain-link fence
Self-installation This kind of fencing is a simple process. Now you know it. This type of fence is cheap, beautiful (if decorated), easy to install, and durable. In general, what many of us need. Good luck!
Did you know that installing a stone, slate or metal fence between neighboring summer cottages is prohibited? The fact is that the deaf high fences shade a lot of space, preventing the penetration of light. Considering the dimensions summer cottages, 6-8 acres, where every meter counts, all plants planted along such fences will get sick and wither. Therefore, complaints from neighbors are inevitable. What to do? A good option is to equip a fence from a chain-link mesh. It will not interfere with the penetration of sunlight and the movement of air masses. Such fences are popular not only among summer residents, but are also used to fence off technical areas, sports grounds, lakes and other bodies of water, chicken coops and other objects.
Chainlink mesh got its name in honor of the mason Karl Rabitz, who received a patent for its invention at the end of the 19th century. True, then it was used for plastering walls. Chain-link mesh is a low-carbon steel wire that is woven into a kind of fabric. Spirals of wire are screwed into each other using a special machine, which not only “knits” the mesh, but also immediately rolls it into rolls.
The price of a chain-link fence is much lower than that of fences made of other materials, which is an undeniable advantage. Any summer resident or rural resident can easily purchase a mesh in any construction supermarket, store or market; in addition, he will need posts to secure the mesh and reinforcing rods, cable or thick wire 4 - 6 mm in diameter.
Types of mesh
Today there are three types of chain-link mesh on the market, which differ in the material of manufacture:
- Non-galvanized made of black wire. Unpainted mesh Chain-link made of ferrous metal will not last long, no more than 3 years. Moreover, just three to four days after its installation, rust will begin to appear. As a temporary option, such a mesh can be purchased with the expectation that later a fence made of a different material will be installed in its place or removed altogether. Otherwise, the ferrous metal mesh must be painted and the paint layer renewed every 4 to 5 years.
- Galvanized Chain-link mesh does not corrode. However, she is not much more expensive than analogue made of black metal. That is why it is universally popular.
- Plasticized. This is a mesh made of metal wire, coated on top with a protective anti-corrosion polymer. It looks somewhat more aesthetically pleasing than previous types and is not afraid of moisture. Such nets appeared on our market relatively recently and have already begun to conquer the summer cottages of our compatriots.
In addition to the material of manufacture, the chain-link mesh may differ in the shape of the cells and their size. The shape, rectangular, diamond-shaped or other, does not really matter. But the cell size is extremely important. It can be from 25 mm to 60 mm. The smaller it is, the less light the mesh transmits, the more durable and monolithic, but also more expensive. Mesh with 60mm mesh is not suitable for fencing a chicken coop as the mesh is large enough for chickens to fit through. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a Chainlink mesh based on what it will be used for. For fencing summer cottage To prevent large animals and people from entering, use a mesh with cells of 40 - 50 mm. This is quite enough.
The cost of a chain-link fence depends on several parameters: the material of the mesh, the size of the mesh, the thickness of the wire in the mesh and the method of its fastening.
Non-galvanized chain-link mesh with dimensions 50*2.0*10 costs about 28 USD. per roll 10 m. In these sizes, 50 is the cell size, 2.0 is the wire thickness. By the way, it can be from 1.0 to 2.0 mm. Accordingly, the thinner the mesh, the cheaper and lighter it is, but less strong and durable.
Galvanized mesh Chain-link 50*2.0*10 costs 32 USD. for 10 m. Agree, the difference is not that big.
Plasticized mesh Chainlink 50*2.0*10 costs 48 USD. for 10 m. This is somewhat more expensive than the previous options; it will be expensive for a temporary fence, but just right for a permanent fence.
How to make a fence from chain-link mesh
There are two ways to construct a chain-link fence:
- Pull between the pillars;
- Make sections from the corner into which to secure the mesh fragments.
The first method is much easier and cheaper, but less aesthetically pleasing and somewhat practical.
To manufacture the sections, additional considerable costs will be required for a metal corner, the cost of which may exceed the cost of the mesh. A sectional fence will be more beautiful, stronger, and you can use it to dry something or just hang it.
For both methods you will need poles on which the mesh will be attached.
What types of chain-link fences are there: photos - examples
Chainlink fence posts
Wooden pillars- easy available material in wooded areas, but short-lived. It only makes sense to purchase wooden poles or beams if they are much cheaper than metal ones, or if you are installing a temporary fence. There are situations when wooden building material remains after the construction of a house, for example, a roof. I don't want to endure it extra costs, if there is unattended material.
For arranging fence posts wooden beams must be cleared of bark. They are then cut to the required length. Most often, deepening is carried out 10 - 15 cm below the soil freezing level. So it turns out that the length of the beam will be about 3 m. The entire underground part of the tree must be treated with waterproofing mastic. Fortunately, now the market offers many options for mastics that do not require heating or any preparation, you just spread it on and that’s it. The rest of the beams must be painted, otherwise they will rot within six months to a year after installation. The chain-link mesh is secured to the tree using nails. From modern materials You can offer clamps, but they will not fit very organically into the overall look.
Metal poles are more preferable because they are more durable and reliable. The most commonly used pipes are round or square section diameter 60 - 120 mm. The section thickness must be at least 2 mm. To reduce the cost of building a chain-link fence, pipes can be purchased at your nearest scrap metal purchase. Sometimes you can find a good option there water pipes, which have lost their tightness, but are not affected by rust. They can no longer be used for water supply, and for the fence their tightness does not matter. IN lately poles appeared on sale, ready to be used for building a fence. They are painted and have welded hooks. Such pipes will cost a little more, but many associated worries are eliminated.
Can also be used concrete or asbestos cement pillars, if they are available, but the mesh can only be attached to them with clamps or using a cable, weaving it into the mesh and braiding the post.
Do-it-yourself tension fence made of mesh Chainlink
One of the main advantages of mesh fences is the ease of installation, which can be successfully completed by two people without having serious construction skills. As an example, consider the construction tension fence made from chain-link mesh using metal posts. Mesh width - 2 m.
Marking the area for the fence
First of all, we install temporary pegs in the corners of the site and stretch a construction thread or cord between them. We measure the length of the cord - this will be the length of the Chainlink mesh, which should be purchased with a margin of 1 - 2 meters, just in case.
Now you need to mark the places for installing the pillars. The most optimal distance between the pillars 2 - 2.5 m, no more, since the chain-link mesh is a bending material.
To count the quantity required pillars, divide the length of each side of the plot by 2.5. For example, the length is 47 m. This value is not evenly divisible by 2 or 2.5. When divided by 2.5, we get 18.8. We have two options. The first is to install 19 pillars on equal distance from each other, 47/19 = 2.47 m. But it is almost impossible to calculate the installation location of the pillar with such accuracy. The second way is to install 18 pillars at a distance of 2.5 m, and make the distance between the last ones slightly smaller. In total, we need to purchase 19 metal pipes.
We make marks along a stretched line at a distance of 2.5 m from each other. We constantly make sure that they are on an even line.
Important! If the site has a significant slope, it will not be possible to build a fence from the Chainlink mesh, since it is poorly attached in an inclined position. The only way out of the situation is to terrace the area. In the place where there is a difference in heights, install a more powerful and longer pole, to which a section of the mesh will be attached on one side at one level, and on the other side at another. To do this, the mesh fabric will have to be divided. The second option is to equip a sectional fence.
Installation of pillars
In the places marked for the posts, we drill holes with a drill or dig with a shovel. Depth 1.2 - 1.5 m. To prevent the pillars from moving during the spring swelling of the soil, they must be installed below the freezing depth of the soil by 15 - 20 cm, i.e. to a depth of 0.8 - 1.2 m.
We will install the corner posts first, since they will have the greatest pressure, and even unevenly. Place a layer of crushed stone at the bottom of the well and compact it thoroughly. Then a layer of sand is also compacted.
Then we install the pipe, having previously treated the underground part with anti-corrosion mastic. Cooking cement mortar from one part sand and two parts cement. Mix, then add two parts of crushed stone and mix again, add water and mix again. It is important to ensure that the solution is not too liquid. Then pour the solution into the hole around the pipe.
Important! Be sure to use a plumb line to control the vertical position of the pillar.
We pierce the concrete with a bayonet shovel, shaking and compacting it. The second thing we install is a corner post with opposite side. Then all the other pillars follow the described technology, making sure to control the evenness of their location relative to each other. To do this, we have a thread stretched - we check it.
Further work can be continued only after the concrete has completely hardened, i.e. in a week.
Sometimes metal poles They don’t concrete, but simply pour a layer of rubble stone or savage into the empty space of the pit, compact it thoroughly, then fill it with a layer of soil, also compact it, and again rubble stone on top. This method of fastening is also good; the pillars are firmly fixed in adjacent planes. IN last layer stone, you can add a little concrete, this will increase the strength of the structure.
Tensioning the chain-link mesh and securing it to poles
When the concrete has dried, we weld hooks onto the posts onto which we will attach the Chainlink mesh. To do this, you can use nails, screws, thick wire, pieces of rod or other improvised material that can be bent into a hook.
The next stage of making a chain-link fence is stretching the mesh. First of all, straighten the roll. Then we install it near the first corner post. We secure the net by hanging it on hooks. For greater strength, thread a thick wire or reinforcing rod with a cross-section of 3 - 4 mm into the first row of mesh cells (in a vertical position). After hanging the mesh on the hooks, we weld this rod to the pipe. This will prevent the mesh from sagging and sagging.
We unwind the mesh one span to the nearest post. A little further from the junction of the mesh with the post, we thread a rod into it in a vertical position. Holding on to it, we will pull the net. If we simply pull it with our hands, the tension will be uneven. Together, one closer to the top edge, the other to the bottom, stretch the mesh. For convenience, you can invite a third participant in the process who will put the net on the hooks at this time.
Then we thread the rods, cable or wire into the mesh in horizontal plane at a distance of 5 - 20 cm from the top edge and also from the bottom. Sometimes it is recommended to use 5 rods at an equal distance from each other. We weld them to the post. These rods will serve as a supporting support for the grid so that it does not sag over time.
We repeat the procedure for all other pillars, following the same algorithm: tension, fasten, stretch the rod, weld.
Important! Do not go around corner posts with netting. It is better to secure it on a pole, disconnect it, secure the cells of the second part of the fabric and continue to stretch the mesh as a separate fabric. This is necessary in order to reduce the load on the pillars.
One roll of mesh may not be enough to cover all the spans between the posts. There may be a situation where there is a meter of mesh left, and the next post is 2.5 m away. In this case, we remove the wire from the outermost row of the mesh, apply the ending web to a new roll and weave the wire between them. The result should be a continuous mesh without seams.
When the entire area is fenced, we bend the hooks on all the posts. If there is a piece of mesh left that is not needed, remove the wire, disconnecting the mesh, retreating one cell after securing it to the post.
The final touch is that the poles must be painted so that they do not corrode. If you do not plan to use welding, but secure the mesh with clamps or wire, then you can paint the posts before starting work on stretching the mesh.
We twist the upper tendrils of the wire from which the mesh is made together into one or two turns and wrap it down so that they do not injure anyone. Sometimes a rope or wire is threaded into the top row of cells and the wire tendrils are twisted around it. At this point, our chain-link fence is ready.
Do-it-yourself sectional chain-link fence
This type of fence made from a chain-link mesh differs from a tension fence by the presence of a frame of sections into which the mesh is mounted.
The first stages of work: marking and installing pillars are no different from installing a tension fence. The pillars should be a little stronger, since they will have to carry a significantly larger load.
We purchase a corner 30*4 or 40*5 mm. We use it to weld the frame for the fence sections. To do this, subtract 10 - 20 cm from the distance between the pillars, this will be the length of the frame. We also subtract 10 - 15 cm from the height of the pillar above the ground level, this will be the width of the frame. We weld the corners into a rectangle.
Then we unwind the roll of Chainlink mesh. If there is a need, we reduce its height dimensions to the required ones, cutting off the excess with a grinder. The second option is to make the section size 2 m (according to the width of the mesh) and unroll the mesh roll in a vertical position, separating the excess from below.
We thread a rod with a cross section of 4 - 5 mm into the outer row. We weld it to vertical rack frame from corners. Then we thread the rods into the top and bottom rows of the mesh, carefully stretch it and also weld the rods to the horizontal corners of the frame. We do the same with the last vertical post. As a result, we should end up with a section welded from a corner, inside which a Chain-link mesh is welded onto rods.
We weld metal strips 15 - 30 cm long, 5 cm wide and 5 mm in cross-section in a horizontal position to the posts. We retreat 20 - 30 cm from the upper and lower edges of the pillar. We install a section between the pillars and weld it to the strips.
After all the welding work, the fence must be painted - everything is ready.
As you can see, making a fence from a chain-link mesh is not so difficult. It will take patience, two to three people and good mood. And if the description of the fence installation technology in words is not clear to you, we suggest watching a visual video.
How to make a fence from chain-link mesh: video - instructions
Chain-link mesh – practical material, ideal for creating fences, especially boundary ones. This is due to its strength, the absence of shadows from the fence and ease of installation. Today we will look at the nuances of choosing a chain-link mesh, as well as the main issues regarding the technology of its installation.
Types of mesh
Plasticized meshThe strength of the fence, its appearance and cost will directly depend on what type of mesh you choose. There are three main types of chain-link mesh:
- plasticized;
- black non-galvanized;
- galvanized.
The plasticized mesh is coated with a polymer protective layer, which extends the service life of the material, making it more resistant to corrosion. In addition, this coating is available in a variety of colors, so the mesh fence can be matched to the roof or facade of the house.
Non-galvanized or, as it is also called, black chain-link mesh is the most inexpensive variety. But it has a significant drawback - a short service life (3-4 years) due to rapid rusting. For longer service life, the mesh will need to be regularly painted or treated with water-repellent compounds.
Galvanized mesh tolerates high humidity well, does not rust and, unlike black mesh, does not require regular painting. However, its price is much higher.
The size and shape of the cells may vary The mesh can also have different shape cells and their size. The shape does not affect anything other than appearance, but you should pay attention to the size of the cells when choosing. They can vary from 2.5 to 6 cm, and the smaller the cell, the stronger the fence. Accordingly, the price of fine mesh will be higher.
To determine this parameter, you need to take into account the intended purpose of the fence. For example, to build a pen for small domestic animals and birds, it is better to use a medium-sized mesh, and for demarcation suburban area or a dacha would be suitable and coarse material.
How to make a chain-link fence
You can make a fence from a chain-link mesh in two ways - make a chain-link fence and a corner section and then connect them, or fasten the mesh between pre-installed support posts.
In the second case, the cost of the fence will be lower and its installation will be simpler, but appearance such a fence is inferior to a sectional one. The first option is more beautiful and durable, but will require additional expenses for the purchase of a corner for sections. Below we will look at both methods, but before that you should figure out which supports for a mesh fence are best to use, because in any of the options you cannot do without them.
Chain-link fence posts
When installing chain-link mesh, wooden or metal supports are usually used. Wooden posts are less durable, and their use is justified only if it is possible to purchase the material inexpensively, and the fence itself will be temporary.
Before starting work, wooden supports should be thoroughly cleared of bark and trimmed to the required length. They are usually buried below the soil freezing level by 15 cm. Underground part The pillars must be impregnated with a waterproofing compound, and the rest of the surface must be painted, this will extend the service life of the fence. The mesh is usually secured to such supports with nails or special clamps.
Installation wooden supports for the fence Metal poles are used more often due to their durability. As a standard for these purposes, round or square pipes with a cross section of 6-12 cm, while the thickness of their walls should be 2 mm or more. If you have an urgent issue of saving, then you can buy pipes from a scrap metal dealer, choosing, although not new, fairly durable products without traces of corrosion.
Those who are not strapped for money can purchase ready-made supports designed specifically for installing the mesh. They are already painted and equipped with mounting hooks.
As an alternative to metal and wood, you can use concrete supports. However, in this case, you will have to face difficulties when installing the chain-link, since it can be secured only with the help of special brackets or cables woven into the mesh, and this is not very convenient.
Chain-link tension fence
The secret of reliable and durable fencing lies not only in the use quality materials, but also in observing the technological aspects of its assembly. Let's look at how to make a fence from a chain-link mesh, securing it between metal supports. The width of the mesh installed in our example is 2 m.
Installation of such a fence will not require significant effort and even two people can handle it. To do this, it is not necessary to have construction skills; the main thing is to approach each stage of the work responsibly.
Marking the area for the fence
The construction of a fence begins with marking its outline. To do this, marks (small wooden or metal pegs) are driven into the corners of the area and connected to each other with a cord or rope. Then you need to measure the length of the rope - this will be the required footage of the net. But when purchasing, it is advisable to take material with an allowance of several meters.
You need to mark the area by driving in pegs. It must be taken into account that it is possible to build a fence from a tension mesh only on a relatively flat area, since it is problematic to secure it in an inclined position. If there is a significant slope, then terracing is the only way out. To do this, at the junction different heights you will have to install a pole (stronger and longer than the others), to which different sides and parts of the mesh will be attached at different levels.
For large differences in height, it is more rational to make a sectional fence Installation of pillars
In the designated places you need to dig holes for support pillars. The optimal depth of the wells is 120 cm. Installation should begin with corner supports, which bear the greatest pressure.
First of all, layers of crushed stone and sand are poured onto the bottom of the pits, each of which is carefully compacted. Then the lower part of the pipes is treated with an anti-corrosion compound, the supports are installed in the wells and filled with concrete. The solution is mixed from one part sand and two parts crushed stone and cement. The amount of water is added so that the mixture is not very liquid.
Pay attention! When installing supports, you must check their verticality using a building level.
Concrete all around support pillars should be pierced several times bayonet shovel so that it thickens. After the corner supports, all the remaining ones are installed in the same way, and their location, in order to avoid distortions, must be controlled using a pre-tensioned cord.
Control the location of the supports by following the cord You can proceed to installing the mesh only after waiting for the concrete to completely harden; this will take about 7 days. If you don’t want to wait, you can do without using mortar when strengthening the pillars. To do this, a layer of rubble stone is poured into the free space in the pits, compacted, then a layer of soil is placed on top and compacted again. The finishing touch is another layer of stone. This method, like concrete, gives the fence sufficient stability.
Stretching the mesh and securing it to poles
Tension fence diagram If you purchased ordinary pipes, and not special supports already equipped with hooks, then after the foundation has dried, you will need to weld fasteners onto the posts. They can be nails, scraps of strong wire and other similar materials that can be bent into the shape of a hook.
Next, it’s time to install the mesh. The tensioning of the chain-link begins with the first corner support, hanging the mesh on the hooks. To prevent it from bending, a metal rod with a cross-section of at least 3 mm is inserted into the first row of cells and welded to the post.
Then the mesh is unwound further, to the next support. To ensure uniform tension, it is better to do this by holding onto a reinforcing rod threaded vertically into the cells. It is more convenient for two people to distribute the net along the supports, so that one participant monitors the top edge and the other the bottom. If possible, it is worth involving another person in the process, who will simultaneously put the chain-link on the hooks.
It is better to strengthen the fence with rods welded to the posts along the top and bottom along its entire length, this will protect the mesh from sagging. For high fence You can also weld several stiffeners in the center.
Advice! The corner supports should not be surrounded by a single piece of mesh; it should be cut and each part secured separately. This will reduce the load on the pillars.
The fastening hooks should be bent If during work you run out of a roll of mesh in the middle of the span, you can remove the wire from the outermost row of the chain-link, attach the fabric to the new one and connect them, weaving it between them. In this case, you will get a continuous fabric without seams.
After the entire mesh around the perimeter of the site has been deployed, you need to bend the fastening hooks on the supports. If there is unnecessary remainder of material, you should step back one cell from the fixed edge and cut off the excess.
The finishing touch is painting the posts of the finished fence. If you choose a non-galvanized chain-link for the fence, you should paint it too. It is advisable to twist the wire tendrils that will remain on the upper edge of the mesh together in several turns and bend them down so that no one is injured by them. The fence is ready.
An example of the design of the top edge of the fence Sectional chain-link fence
Device sectional fence made from chain-link also deserves separate consideration. The main difference between this design and the previous one is the presence of separate frame sections on which the mesh is fixed.
All preparatory work and the technology for installing supports are similar to those described above, however, it is recommended to choose stronger pillars, since they will have to support more weight.
For the frame you will need to purchase a corner with a wall thickness of at least 4-5 mm. The dimensions of the frame are determined as follows: 10-15 cm are subtracted from the distance between the supporting pillars and the height of the pillar above the ground level. The resulting parameters will be equal to the length and width of each section.
The corners are connected by welding at right angles to each other, so as to form a rectangle of the required size.
Diagram of a sectional chain-link fence Next, straighten the chain-link roll. If its dimensions do not correspond to the frame, the excess can be cut off with a grinder. To secure the mesh, you need to insert reinforcing bars along all edges of the fragment, and then weld them to the frame. Thus, you should end up with a section of four corner fragments, inside of which a mesh is welded onto the rods.
To fix the sections on the supports, small strips of metal are attached to the posts. The optimal length for them is from 15 to 30 cm, width – about 5 cm and thickness – 5 mm. The strips are welded in a horizontal position, retreating about 20 cm from both edges of the supports. The sections are then placed between the posts and welded to the strips. Ready fence It is recommended to paint.
The result of the work is strong fencing for your site To summarize, we can say that self-construction Chain-link fencing is a simple task that almost anyone can do. All you need is a couple of helpers, materials and the right attitude. Happy work!
Mesh is widely used for fencing summer cottages. Anyone can install a chain-link fence with a minimum of tools on hand. If installation technology is followed and quality materials are selected, such a fence will last 15-20 years. Before starting work, you need to study the types and characteristics of the mesh, as well as study the instructions in detail to avoid mistakes.
The mesh is made from black and galvanized wire, so the quality of the chain-link varies. Black wire mesh is the cheapest and most short-lived. It becomes covered with rust after the first fog or rain, and after 3-4 years it becomes completely unusable. You can extend the service life of non-galvanized chain-link by using paint or liquid rubber, which should be applied to the mesh before its installation, and then periodically update the protective layer.
A mesh made of galvanized wire is not afraid of corrosion, and therefore lasts longer. It costs a little more than black, but does not need any protective treatment. made from galvanized chain-link, they look neat and attractive.
Plasticized chain-link is becoming increasingly popular. This metal mesh coated with a dense layer of anti-corrosion polymer, due to which it has increased resistance to atmospheric influences. In addition, the polymer is colored, the mesh looks very attractive and aesthetically pleasing. And although such chain-link is quite expensive, the demand for it is constantly growing.
In addition to quality, chain-link mesh differs in mesh size, wire thickness and roll height. Cells can have sizes from 10 to 65 mm, wire diameter 1-5 mm. The roll height is from 0.8 to 2 m, but the most popular is 1.5 m. Standard length mesh in a roll is 10 m, rolls of 20 m are made to order. The smaller the cells, the more expensive the cost of the mesh, because this increases the consumption of material.
| Type of mesh | Wire diameter, mm | Mesh width, mm | Live mesh cross-section, % | Estimated weight of 1m2 mesh, kg |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1,20 | 1000 | 55,0 | 4,52 | |
| woven mesh with rhombic mesh | 1,20 | 1000 | 61,0 | 33,73 |
| woven mesh with rhombic mesh | 1,20 | 1000 | 69,8 | 2,78 |
| woven mesh with rhombic mesh | 1,40 | 1000 | 65,5 | 3,8 |
| 1,20 | 1000,1500 | 75,3 (78,9) | 2,20 (1,94) | |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,40 | 1000,1500 | 71,5 (76,2) | 3,00 (2,57) |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,40 | 1000,1500 | 76,3 (77,0) | 3,24 (2,74) |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,60 | 1000,1500 | 73,3 (77,0) | 3,24 (2,74) |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,80 | 1000,1500 | 76,0 (78,9) | 3,25 (2,75) |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,60 | 1000,1500 | 77,5 (80,9) | 2,57 (2,17) |
| 1,4 | 1000-2000 | 83,6 | 1,77 | |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,4 | 1000-2000 | 87,0 | 1,33 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,6 | 1000-2000 | 85,7 | 1,74 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,6 | 1000-2000 | 88,0 | 1,39 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,8 | 1000-2000 | 87,0 | 1,76 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,8 | 1000-2000 | 89 | 1,46 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,0 | 1000-2000 | 87,9 | 1,81 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,8 | 1000-2000 | 91 | 1,1 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,0 | 1000-2000 | 90,7 | 1,36 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,0 | 1000-2000 | 91,7 | 1,23 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,5 | 1000-2000 | 90,7 | 1,70 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 3,0 | 1000-2000 | 89 | 2,44 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,5 | 1000-2000 | 92 | 1,41 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 3,0 | 1000-2000 | 92 | 1,74 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,5 | 1000-2000 | 94 | 1,10 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 3,0 | 1000-2000 | 93 | 1,53 |
Prices for mesh netting
Chain-link mesh
Types of mesh fences
Chain-link fencing can be sectional or tensioned. The first option involves the production of rectangular metal sections, inside of which a mesh is fixed. For sections use metal corners, profile and round pipes small diameter. They are connected by welding or bolts, if not. Such a fence looks more aesthetically pleasing and attractive, metal frame prevents the mesh from sagging.
A tension fence is quicker and easier to install; its design consists only of support pillars and the mesh itself. The mesh is secured using steel wire, clamps, or hung on hooks welded to the posts. Pipes of different diameters, concrete pillars, and wooden beams are suitable for pillars.
Installation of fence posts
For both sectional and tension fences, the marking, preparation and installation of pillars is carried out using the same technology, only in the first case the pillars must be stronger. This is due to the additional load from the metal sections; if the supports are too thin, the fence will definitely warp.
To work you will need:
- roulette;
- wooden pegs;
- a skein of thin rope;
- building level;
- hand drill;
- crushed stone and sand;
- solution;
- profile pipes 60x40 mm;
- Bulgarian;
- primer.
Step 1: Installing Corner Posts
The area allocated for the site is cleared of vegetation, leveled if necessary, and the location of the outer pillars is determined. Experienced builders It is recommended to make corner posts from pipes with a larger cross-section than intermediate ones, and dig them deeper. For example, if for intermediate supports they take a 40x40 mm profile pipe, then for corner supports it is better to take 60x40 mm and 15-20 cm longer.
Start installing the pillars:
When the solution has hardened a little, you can remove the spacers and begin marking for the intermediate posts.
Step 2. Marking
A rope is pulled tightly between the corner supports at a height of 15 cm from the ground - this will be the fence line. The line must be divided into equal segments corresponding to the width of the span. Optimal width the span for a chain-link fence is 2-2.5 m; if you increase it, the mesh will definitely sag. They step back from the outermost post to the required distance and drive a peg into the ground, and so on until the opposite corner. All pegs must be in contact with taut rope and be at an equal distance from each other.
Video - New way to install support poles
Step 3. Installation of intermediate supports
In place of the pegs, holes are drilled for the posts and the bottom is filled with sand. To make it more convenient to control the height of the supports, another rope is pulled along the upper edge of the corner posts. Now the pipes are inserted into the pits, leveled in height and vertically, covered with crushed stone and soil and compacted tightly with a crowbar. Concrete is poured on top and the surface is leveled.
If you plan to install a tension fence, and the soil on the site is quite dense, intermediate supports You can just hammer it into the ground and not concrete it. To do this, drill holes to half the required depth, insert pipes there and hammer them in with a sledgehammer. To protect the top edge of the posts from deformation, take a piece of pipe larger size, weld a steel plate on one side and place it on top of the post. After driving in the supports, the pits are filled with crushed stone and sand, spilled with water for better compaction and compacted thoroughly.
Step 4. Welding the hooks
After about a week, when the concrete has sufficiently hardened, installation can continue. You can secure the mesh to the poles with wire or clamps, but it is more convenient to hang it on hooks. There are profile pipes on sale with already welded hooks, but if there are welding machine, it’s cheaper to make them yourself. For this purpose, pieces of steel rod, screws, nails, even thick wire are suitable - anything that can be welded to the pipe and bent. On a pole 2 m high, it is enough to make 3 hooks: at a distance of 15 cm from the ground, 10 cm from the top of the pipe and in the middle.
Video - DIY chain-link fence
Step 1. Attaching the mesh
A roll of chain-link is placed near a corner post, unwinded a little and the cells are put on the hooks. To securely fix the edge of the mesh, you need to take a piece of reinforcement with a cross-section of 8 mm and a length of 1.5 m and thread it into the cells of the first row. After this, the fittings are attached to the pipe and welded. Now, when tensioning the roll, the mesh will not sag. Having secured the end of the mesh, the roll is transferred to the next support, carefully unwinding it.
Having retreated 10-15 cm from the junction of the chain-link with the pipe, a steel rod is again threaded into the cells. This time there is no need to weld it, it will simply help to tension the mesh evenly. When the mesh is put on the hooks, the rod is removed, the roll is unwound another span, the reinforcement is inserted again, and so on until the very end of the fence. To connect two sheets, use wire from the outermost vertical row of one of the rolls.
Step 2. Fixing the canvas from sagging
Even a well-stretched canvas sags a little over time, so at the installation stage you need to take care of additional fixation of the chain-link between the posts. You will need 6 mm wire and a welding machine. The wire is threaded into the second or third row of cells horizontally along the entire fence. Where the mesh adjoins the posts, the wire is welded. Then the lower edge of the mesh is strengthened in the same way, and finally the hooks are bent. Now the fence canvas is securely fixed on the supports and will not sag or sag.
Step 3. Final stage
Once the fence is installed, the finishing touches need to be completed:
- place plastic plugs on top of the pipes;
- paint the posts;
- Twist the upper tendrils of the chain-link in pairs into 2 turns and bend down.
At this point, the installation of the tension fence is considered completed.
Video - Connecting a chain-link into one roll
Installation of a sectional fence
Manufacturing of sections
Step 2. Preparing the racks
Rectangular plates 20x5 cm and 4-5 mm thick are cut from sheet steel. Take one plate, apply it perpendicular to the pole at a height of 20 cm from the ground and weld it. The second plate is welded at the top, 15-20 cm away from the edge. The plates are attached to the remaining supports in the same way.
Step 3. Installation of sections
The first section is placed between the pillars, raised and leveled. Then they weld the sides to the plates and move on to the next span. It is very important to correctly align the sections in height so that the top crossbars of the frame form a single line. After installing all sections, the welding areas are cleaned, the fence frame is primed and painted.
Read step by step instructions How to do it in our new article.
Video - How to make a chain-link fence
