Ideas for the winter - how to make a creative fence for the beds. Do-it-yourself high beds: step by step we make beds from boards in the country

Borders for beds are a practical and necessary fencing around them. The main purpose of artificial walls around the beds is to increase the height of the fertile layer, which can be easily created by frequent mulching with compost soil after watering. Over time, the fence for the vegetable growing area has become an element of landscape design. In an ornamental garden, borders play the role of separators and borders of territories on which cultivated plants grow.

The fence for beds will demonstrate practical benefits already in the first season.

From an aesthetic point of view, the places for planting seeds and seedlings of vegetable crops will look more well-groomed, noticeable, and expressive. They do not need to be periodically put in order, to deal with water leaks during irrigation, to maintain a horizontal plane on the slopes.

From a practical point of view, there are also many benefits:

• fenced areas for vegetables will have significantly fewer weeds than uncultivated areas;
• less physical effort will be required for manual weeding, digging, mulching, top dressing and other work;
• it is more convenient to cover such structures with a film; on high fences it is easier to fix arcs for a greenhouse in order to plant seedlings of vegetables and flowers in it;
• it is easier to make natural heating, by creating a layered bed with biofuel, for growing cucumbers, peppers and other warm-loving vegetable plants.

Fenced areas for vegetables will have significantly fewer weeds than uncultivated areas

How to make a garden fence with your own hands

There are certain requirements for the walls:

• they should be low (height 10-30 cm) so as not to obscure vegetable plants at the beginning of growth;
• neat - emphasizing the straightness or irregular, but attractive shape of the beds;
• dense - not allowing the fertile layer to spill out onto the path or spread water outside the border of the zone for growing plants during irrigation;
• beautiful to fit into the overall structure of the improvement of the suburban area.

Fencing places for growing vegetables can make the garden not only cozy, comfortable, well-groomed, but also original, maybe even unique.

Boxes from them with a thick fertile layer do not need to be dug up, so soil care in them is the easiest - loosening with a hoe before planting seeds or seedlings.

On flower beds and flower beds, borders of living plants of the same species (rosemary, calendula, boxwood, hyssop and other undersized perennial flowers planted tightly in 2-3 rows) look spectacular, pretty, stylish. Fences for areas with vegetables are also built from artificial and improvised materials - bricks, boards or wooden beams, stones, sheet metal, plastic, sawn slate and other construction waste. They can always be collected in the right amount in the nearby ownerless territories or bought cheaply in stores. Many summer residents, when asked how to protect the beds in the country inexpensively, unequivocally answer - with construction waste material, cobblestones, a low picket fence and other items that can be found in construction dumps, on river banks and in other places.

Borders for beds made of wood - it's simple, familiar, natural. Simple - because any woodwork for a summer residence is a good design option. They are easily fastened with nails, screws, glue. The pieces of wood are easy to assemble and also easy to disassemble for transfer to a new place.

Habitual - because there are a lot of wooden buildings around us.

Naturally - because trees grow everywhere.

The fence looks original for beds made of stumps, the same thickness of low logs or low wattle. Most often, wooden border material for beds is a cut and unedged board, which forms a capacious box without a bottom, where all the necessary raw materials are poured.

You can make a box from separate shields, which are knocked down from a slab, a picket fence, an old floor rail, lining, and other types of lumber.

Shields are attached to each other and fixed with stakes hammered from the outside. This design is easy to disassemble and assemble in a new place.
Wooden objects can be treated with protective impregnations from decay and insects, which will increase its service life at times.

Until recently, it was believed that wood is short-lived, and therefore impractical. But now wooden objects can be treated with protective impregnations from decay and insects, which will increase its service life at times.

A good option is considered to be metal walls for boxes from worn-out sieves of a sieve box of combine harvesters. Lightweight, strong, durable with many small holes for ventilation, they are easily cut with metal scissors to the desired size. Craftsmen who have a welding machine can easily weld a metal frame from scrap metal for a plant growing area from pieces of sheet iron of the required thickness.

Now in construction stores they sell a special multi-layer galvanized steel profiled sheet, with a polymer coating. Its height is 17 centimeters, and the length is different. It is convenient to make roomy boxes from it. Although its price is not cheap, but given the durability, it is worth buying. From it, walls for territories with vegetables will last a long time.

Metal fencing is easy to install. Places for planting seeds and seedlings of vegetable plants, framed by them, look neat, beautiful (you can choose a profiled sheet of different colors), practical. But iron has a serious drawback - it is a good thermal conductivity. The soil near the iron railings can reach a critical temperature that will inhibit crop plants and dry out the soil. This disadvantage is easy to deal with using any improvised means that have low thermal conductivity. It is possible to overlay metal fences from the inside with cardboard, pieces of slate, stones.

A plastic fence for planting seeds and seedlings of vegetable crops has a number of advantages. It will be light, durable, frost-resistant, not afraid of sunlight, shock loads. You can buy curb tape in the store, which has the optimal balance of rigidity, flexibility, high plasticity, due to which it can be bent at any angle. It is simply installed with your own hands, well supports the geometry of beds, flower beds, lawns. For stability, it is fixed with pegs driven in from both sides.

DIY plastic bottle beds

Plastic bottles are a widely used material at hand. If desired, they can easily be dialed in sufficient quantities. The bottles are filled with any bulk material: earth, sand, small gravel, and then they are simply placed close in one or several rows, into a trench dug around the perimeter of the bed, with the neck down. From plastic bottles, you can make a major fence for a place with cultivated plants, if they are laid horizontally on a cement mortar. If you put plastic bottles on the beds with their bottoms out, then the border will have an original multi-colored look. With the help of a rich imagination, you can realize even better ideas for crafts from plastic bottles for giving with your own hands.

Owners who have just completed the construction of a brick house will be able to make stationary fences for vegetable planting sites with their own hands from the remains of a brick. The beds and flower beds framed by this building material will look like a single ensemble with a residential building. The brick can be dug in in different ways: on the edge at an angle; on edge in a row; the first row is flat, and on top of the solution a row on the edge. A decorative brick border largely depends on the imagination of the owners of the summer cottage.

Stones in abundance can be collected anywhere: on the river, on the slopes of hills, in gravel pits. There are many options for making permanent stone curbstones. The easiest and most affordable way is to fill up the space between two mesh metal gratings dug in along the perimeter of the box. Such a fence is called a pergon. In such a stone “bag”, zucchini and tomatoes, cucumbers and beets will feel comfortable. Yes, and other vegetable crops that are grown in the beds will be comfortable inside a natural, environmentally friendly fence.

Fences of beds from wave slate

Wave slate, like roofing for roofs, has already gone out of fashion. It is everywhere replaced with a professional sheet, different types of tiles, soft roofing. But sheets of wave slate have become very popular with summer residents, who build durable, convenient, almost free fences and fences for growing vegetable plants from pieces. And if you decide: how to fence the beds in the country house cheaply, then, perhaps, the material cannot be found cheaper than the old wave slate. But first, the slate needs to be prepared for installation as a fence. Each sheet is marked into pieces of the desired size and sawn with a grinder. This work will not take long. The process of fencing beds consists of the following steps:

1. Marking the boundaries of future beds with strong twine and stakes that are driven into the corners. A trench 20-25 cm deep is made along the stretched cord (on the bayonet of a shovel).
2. Pieces of sawn slate of the same width are installed in the trench, leveled and slightly buried in the bottom of the trench with a light tap of a hammer.
3. For the stability of the slate fence, stakes 0.5 m long are driven in from the outside, to a depth of 30 cm. A capacious box is obtained.
4. For disinfection, the inside of the box is treated with slaked lime.
5. The bottom of the box is lined with sawdust, dry grass and leaves. Then it is abundantly watered with water and fertile soil is poured on top.
6. Next, you need to think about protecting the slate from direct sunlight, as it gets very hot in the sun and contributes to the accelerated evaporation of moisture. If possible, slate walls should be watered more often. The buried part of the slate will become an insurmountable barrier against the attack of the bear.

It is not difficult to build multi-tiered flower beds and beds from wave slate, on the tiers of which you can grow flowers, strawberries and other plants. And you can fence off a small plot of the garden, where you can prepare compost from weeds and tops from vegetable crops.

The general procedure for constructing a border for beds from any material

The height of the fence depends on the purpose of the beds, as well as on the convenience of caring for plants:

• for fertile garden land - 15 cm;
• for infertile soil - up to 30 cm;
• for potatoes and other solanaceous - up to 40 cm;
• for bioheated compost - up to 50 cm.

The sequence of actions in the manufacture of a border from improvised means;

1. We clear a place for a zone for growing vegetables. We mark its borders with the help of a cord and pegs, focusing on even sides and right angles.
2. We build a strong, rigid box from boards or other material. To fasten them together, we use self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, welding or a trowel.
3. We line the bottom of the fenced area with rubble, gravel, pieces of dishes, stones, bricks for drainage. Then lay out an even layer of leaves, hay, fresh grass.
4. We fill the prepared fertile soil into the box, level it. It should not contain weeds. From the top edge of the curb to the leveled layer of the earth should be 3-5 cm.
5. We plant seeds or seedlings of vegetable plants. Mulch with crushed bark of deciduous trees. The goal is to create an optimal microclimate and retain moisture.
6. If the box surrounds the lawn, then it is advisable to strengthen its bottom with a liquid blind area of ​​​​water, cement and sand. The layer is small - up to 3 cm. For strength and beauty, bricks can be laid on the hardened blind area with a gap of 1-2 cm. Pour a dry sand-cement mixture into the gaps between the bricks.

Many summer residents are categorically against the use of those materials for the fence of beds, which are many in cities and towns: metal, concrete, brick. It is necessary to make borders from natural flowers, grass, stones and wood. It’s hard to disagree with this, but you shouldn’t forget about practicality either. The main thing is to be useful, not harmful, contribute to high yields and please the eye! Let's also not forget about the durability of the borders and the convenience of caring for plants.

You will be surprised at your past doubts - whether to make high beds in the country ... Your back will be grateful to you - you just bend down a little to care for the garden. Your knees will thank you - you can just sit on the edge of the garden and work on your garden. Your plants will thank you - no more competition from weeds or nearby fruit trees. Your land will be grateful to you - you do not trample it down and ennoble it with humus. Your high-bed garden can look beautiful, comfortable, and reward you with a generous harvest.

How to make high beds with your own hands.

1. First we must mark out the place for the beds. The usual width of the beds is 1.2 m, the length can be any. We mark the rectangles of the desired size on the ground with sand.

2. We collect high beds. The high bed has no bottom and consists of posts with grooves on all four sides and boards with corresponding grooves. You can buy ready-made garden fences or make your own. For fences, it is better to take hardwood, because. conifers emit resin, which can have an unnecessary effect on soil composition. We check the horizontal installation of the garden box with a level.

3. We lengthen the high beds. Because Our beds are modular, we can extend our beds from any side with another module.

4. How to protect a high bed from rodents. Even if you have not encountered moles and other underground garden pests in your summer cottage, it is better to provide protection for your garden right now than to unsuccessfully fight these rodents later. At the bottom of each box we put a metal mesh so that it goes a little to the edges of the fences.

5. How to protect the soil on a high bed from being washed out into the main soil. To do this, we use ordinary packing cardboard in two layers so that it covers the entire bottom of our garden box. If there are not enough whole pieces, we use scraps of cardboard - we fasten them with a stapler with the main piece so that the cardboard at the bottom of the box does not move when the soil is poured.

6. The soil for high beds should be light, crumbly and "fluffy". You can easily check its quality by poking your finger into the ground - if it sinks to the third joint, this is the norm. To improve the composition of the soil, you can add peat or compost. We pour the soil into the garden box, check its horizontal level, water it to compact it a little. During the season, we will need to add a little soil.

7. Irrigation system for high beds. Along the contour of the high beds, it is planned to fix a garden hose with watering nozzles: we need 90 and 180 degree dividers.

8. Trellis for high beds. Because the ground in the high bed is loose, then it will not be possible to install a trellis in it, so we fix the trellis from pvc pipes into the ground next to the garden box. On the trellis we stretch nets for climbing plants - cucumbers and beans. For tomatoes, we install light supports made of steel rod.

What you need to know when arranging a high bed.

1. Try to protect high beds from strong winds and heat by creating partial shade with flower trellises or tall shrubs.

2. The long side of the bed should face south - so the plants will be evenly lit, otherwise, taller plants will obscure the others.

3. Planting density on a high bed is twice as high as on a regular bed. So plants fight weeds and create a humid microclimate with foliage.

4. High beds with sides will make it possible for older people or people with back problems to take care of the garden.

5. A high bed is a warm bed. Such a bed warms up faster in the spring, and if you make a mini greenhouse on its basis, it will surprise you with an early and generous harvest.

6. Divide a long, tall bed into square segments with cross braces to reduce soil pressure on the side walls of the bed.

Fences for high beds.

1. Most often, wooden fences are used for understandable beds. There are a few points here - do not use used wood, especially sleepers, which can contain harmful chemicals. Do not treat fresh wood with wood preservatives unless you are sure they are completely environmentally friendly.

2. Wattle as a fence for a high bed. For all its environmental friendliness, such a fence has three significant drawbacks - the soil in the bed dries quickly from the wind, proper thermal insulation of the bed is not provided, the soil can spill out through the cracks. Everything is fixable - use a layer of double cardboard around the inner perimeter of the fence. Environmentally friendly, the air gap between the sheets serves as thermal insulation, the earth no longer spills out.

3. As a fence for a high bed, you can use a metal profile, including from an old roof or fence.

5. You can make fences for a high bed with your own hands from brick or concrete. This is a very good option, but keep in mind that concrete will affect the acidity of the soil in the garden for 2-3 years.

6. The best raised bed railings are plastic. They do not emit anything of their own into the soil, excellent thermal insulation, long service life and the ability to set any shape of the beds, unlike standard rectangles of beds with wooden fences.

7. Fences for high beds from improvised materials. You can make the sides of the beds from bottles laid like bricks on a concrete mortar.

Why do we need high beds.

High beds allow you to increase the area under the garden. you can use inconvenient slopes or poor or weedy soil. Raised beds provide an environmentally friendly way to deal with weeds and soil erosion.

Such beds warm up faster and give an earlier harvest. They allow more economical use of moisture for irrigation.

Various types of high beds.

In addition to the traditional raised bed with high sides, there are several other types of raised beds.

1. Circular high bed. It consists of a round frame, in which there is a path to the center of the garden. This form of high beds is also called the "keyhole".

Branches, roots, paper, compost are placed at the bottom of the beds. In the middle of the bed there is a tunnel for fresh organic waste and water.

This design of the beds provides the necessary moisture and constant enrichment of the soil.

2. High bed without fences. When arranging such a bed, the trunks of trees (not coniferous), branches, roots, snags are laid in the ground at a shallow depth with the first layer; the second layer is this sod removed from the place where you make the bed, laid with grass down; the third layer is 20-30 cm of the main soil mixed with humus.

For irrigation of bulk high beds, an irrigation irrigation system is used when water comes from a ditch between the beds - a good option for gardens flooded in the spring, or you can use a drip irrigation option when water enters the bed from mini terraces.

The paths between the beds are covered with straw or large sawdust. Never step on the ground in a high bed - this will compact it, and it will be more difficult for plants to receive moisture and nutrients.

High beds of this type can be used not only for a vegetable garden, but also for growing shrubs and fruit trees, if you have problematic soil for them in your summer cottage. The service life of such a bed (until the first tree layer with trunks completely rots) is 20-25 years - this period is enough for any fruit tree.

Spare no space for paths between high beds - so you can always drive there with a garden wheelbarrow both for harvesting and with a new portion of humus. Have pity on your back - use a wheelbarrow.

If your raised beds are next to fruit trees, you may need to install a root barrier before laying out the beds - dig a trench, cut the root at the approach to the beds, install a metal sheet in the trench that will prevent the root from growing in that direction and cover the trench with soil.

Learn more about raised beds through your own experience. There are many interesting finds, experiments and new discoveries in this topic for every gardener.

And we have prepared for you a video with 100 inspiring examples of the use of high beds in the country.

Traditional cultivation of the land requires a lot of time and physical strength, and the harvest is not always as expected. That is why more and more gardeners are equipping high beds on their plots, allowing them to get an excellent harvest of vegetables every year without much effort. Anyone can make high beds with their own hands, because this does not require special skills or special equipment.

Benefits of raised beds

Compared to conventional beds, bulk beds have many more advantages:

• a vegetable garden can be set up even on a plot that is completely unsuitable for agriculture;
• digging and weeding the garden are replaced by light loosening of the soil;
• in a limited space it is easier to remove weeds;
• a high bed is easy to mount and just as easy to disassemble;
• between the beds you can lay out paths and walk along them in any weather;
• plants ripen faster, which is especially important for cold regions;
• when arranging a high bed, good drainage is provided;
• crops in the beds are easy to protect from frost by covering with a tarpaulin or agrofibre.

In addition, a garden of bulk beds can be very decorative, so you can break it up next to the house.

Fencing materials

A high bed is a frame of a certain size, the interior of which is filled with soil, compost and fertilizers. Most often, the frame is made of a rectangular shape, and it is assembled from boards, slate, branches, plastic and other materials.

Wood is the most affordable, easy-to-install and environmentally friendly material. To assemble the beds, boards, timber, small logs are used. Disadvantages: wood requires, quickly darkens and loses its attractiveness, short-lived.

Vine and rods are an inexpensive and original solution. Wicker walls look very attractive, you can give the garden any shape. Disadvantages: weaving a vine requires skills, the service life of such a frame is very short.

Stone and brick - an option for sites with classical architecture. Very reliable and durable material, gives the beds a decorative look. Disadvantages: high cost, it will take more time to create a bed, it is difficult to dismantle.

Plastic is a great alternative to wood. Sheet plastic is easy to assemble and disassemble, it is strong enough, has an attractive appearance, is very durable and relatively inexpensive. Disadvantages: certain types of plastic contain harmful substances, so they are not suitable for the garden. Environmentally friendly material has an appropriate certificate, which must be presented upon purchase.

Metal is a convenient and durable material, ideal for curly beds. If necessary, it will not be difficult to move the metal frame, as well as dismantle it. The appearance of the metal walls is neat, they can be painted in any color or painted with ornaments. Disadvantages: to assemble a metal curb, the skills of a welder are required, the price of sheet metal is quite high, high-quality surface treatment is required to protect against corrosion.

- an excellent solution for multi-tiered beds or arranging a vegetable garden on a slope. The walls can be made monolithic or assembled from separate ones. The concrete surface is easy to decorate, it is as strong as possible, durable, has a neat appearance. Disadvantages: lengthy installation process, high cost of materials, additional requirements for the drainage system.

Making beds with slate is quite a budget and simple option. You can install the walls very quickly, such material lasts for a long time, for decorativeness the slate can be painted in any color. The main disadvantage is the fragility of the material, so when installing it should be handled with care.

Each gardener selects the size and shape of the bulk beds at his own discretion. And yet, there are optimal parameters for which the garden bed will be most effective:

• height from the ground 15-50 cm;
• width 90-120 cm;

If the bed is poured on fertile soil, it is made 15-20 cm high. This is quite enough for a good harvest. If the soil on the site is not suitable for farming, the bed is raised up to 30 cm. Compost beds are made even higher - up to 0.5 m. Sometimes the walls are raised very high, which allows you not to bend down during tillage and planting, but this increases material consumption and takes more time to arrange the garden. In addition, with a large width of the frame, it is inconvenient to cultivate the soil at such a height.

The bed should be wide enough for two rows of plants. With this planting, all plants will receive the same amount of air and sunlight, which has a very positive effect on productivity. More rows causes average plants to get less air, shade, stretch upwards, and yield drops. It is also much easier to process a standard-width bed than one that is too wide.

The length of the bulk bed does not play a special role, therefore it is limited only by the size of the plot. The most common option is beds with a length of 1.5 to 3 m; they are compact, look neat in the garden.

The right arrangement of a high bed

For example, a garden bed with a fence made of boards is taken; this option is the most convenient and inexpensive.

In the process of work you will need:

• bayonet shovel;
• roulette;
• drill or screwdriver;
• building level;
• circular saw or jigsaw;
• self-tapping screws;
• boards 50x200 mm;
• timber 50x50 mm;
• primer;
• building network.

Step 1. Wood processing

The boards are cut to the size of the frame, after which they are coated on all sides with antiseptic impregnation. You can use used oil for these purposes, and so that harmful substances do not penetrate the soil, after processing, it is recommended to cover the tree on one side with a film. Especially carefully process the lower edges of the boards that will be in contact with the ground. The beam is sawn into pieces 50 cm long and also impregnated with a protective agent. After that, the building material is laid out to dry.

Step 2. Site preparation

The plot under the bed should be illuminated by the sun for at least 5 hours a day. Mark the boundaries of the beds, remove stones and branches, dig up perennials. If desired, you can dig the soil along with fine grass - this will increase the permeability of the soil. If the soil is very dense, trampled down, it is enough to remove the turf layer along the marking perimeter to a shallow depth in order to more conveniently expose the frame.

Step 3. Assembling the frame for the beds

Dried boards are knocked down in pairs into shields and interconnected with the help of bars. The height of the shields is equal to the height of the beds, the long sides of the frame are additionally reinforced with transverse bars in the center. Since the length of the bars is greater than the height of the walls, they should protrude 10 cm above the frame. These will be the legs of the frame. To improve the appearance of the structure, boards laid flat are stuffed along the perimeter of the frame, the edges of which are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. In conclusion, the frame can be painted from the outside.

Step 4. Installation of the structure

The finished frame is transferred to the installation site; expose the structure according to the markup, make recesses for the legs, check the location of the beds with a building level. If necessary, put pegs or, conversely, take out excess soil. The structure should stand as evenly as possible, all corners on the same level. Finally, soil is poured around the perimeter of the walls and compacted so that there are no gaps left.

Step 5. Filling the beds

First, the bottom is covered with a construction mesh and nailed along the edges to the walls of the frame. The mesh will protect the structure from the penetration of moles and mice. Then geotextiles are laid, which will not allow weeds to germinate. Next, filling the beds is performed in layers:

• small branches, bark, large chips, leaves;
• bird droppings, rotted manure or;
• fallen leaves, branches, bark, grass;
• mineral fertilizer;
• fertile land.

The thickness of each layer is 10 cm. It is not necessary to mix the layers, but it is necessary to level and compact well. If the soil on the site is not of very good quality, it is better to use purchased soil. After filling, the bed is well spilled with water and left for a couple of days. During this time, the layers will settle a little and compact. From above, it is recommended to cover the frame with black agrofibre, which provides better heating of the soil and prevents weeds from germinating.

It is recommended to make high beds in the fall or at the end of summer, so that the layers are well rotted and the roots of the plants receive a maximum of useful substances. If the beds are mounted in the spring, it is necessary to fill them at least a month before planting and pour plenty of water several times to compact. It is easy to turn such a design into a greenhouse: for this, plastic or metal arcs are installed above the frame, the ends of which are fixed to the walls with bolts. A plastic film or a special agrofibre is attached to the arcs from above.

Prices for different types of building boards

Building boards

The device of beds from slate

For the device of bulk beds, you can use both flat and wavy slate. The technology of mounting the beds in this way is very simple and everyone can do it.

Table. wave slate

For work you will need:

• slate sheets;
• Bulgarian;
• bayonet shovel;
• a piece of chalk or a pencil;
• roulette;
• level;
• rubber mallet;
• drill;
• wooden pegs or metal rods.

Step 1. Markup

On the selected site, the boundaries of the beds are marked and beacons are installed. Narrow grooves are dug around the perimeter to the depth of the bayonet. If the soil is good, then they remove the entire fertile layer inside the markup, pouring it out not far from future beds.

Step 2. Material preparation

Slate sheets are laid on a flat surface, measure the desired length and draw a line across the waves with chalk. After that, the grinder cuts the slate along the lines. The pegs are impregnated with bituminous mastic or used oil, and if scraps of metal rods are used as racks, they are treated with anti-corrosion compounds.

Step 3 Installing the Frame

The first sheet of slate is installed vertically in the groove from the marking angle. Then they put the next sheet with an overlap in one wave, level it, knock it out on top with a rubber mallet so that both sheets are at the same height. Check the location of the upper edge of the slate with a building level, if necessary, add or remove soil from below. The walls are reinforced with metal rods or pegs, which are driven in on both sides to a depth of 0.5 m. So, all the sheets of the frame are placed in turn, the trench is covered and the horizontal level is checked again. After that, the soil at the walls is rammed, the excess is removed.

Step 4. Filling the beds

At the very bottom, you can lay old newspapers, cardboard, pieces of wallpaper, the next layer is chopped brushwood, tree bark, sawdust. After that, small chips are poured, plant waste, peat or compost are laid. And from above all this is sprinkled with the soil that was taken out at the very beginning. Plentifully water the bed to wet all the layers, and leave for several days. When the bed is compacted, you can start planting.

Garden care

When the plants sprout, plantings should be well watered and mulched. Weeds that have broken through the mulch layer are immediately removed. After harvesting, the surface is loosened and sown with green manure. Before the onset of cold weather, all vegetation is mowed, leveled in the garden, covered with a layer of earth on top and covered with a black film for the winter. Periodically, it is necessary to inspect the walls of the frame, replace or repair individual sections.

The soil between the beds is most often covered with small gravel, gravel, straw, sometimes sown with lawn grass. In such conditions, the garden always remains well-groomed, weeds do not grow, dirt does not stick to shoes. At will it is possible from a tile and a brick, or to fill in concrete.

Video - Do-it-yourself high beds

Video - High slate beds

high beds have some advantages over the classic beds. Many people think that making such a bed is a difficult and costly task, but this does not require special skills and special tools.

Do-it-yourself high garden- what to make, a photo and a description of the process of assembling the beds, for which high beds are intended, advantages and disadvantages.

Processing the site in the traditional way requires a lot of effort and time, and the harvest does not always exceed expectations. Therefore, many gardeners equip high beds on their plots, allowing them to get an excellent harvest of berries and vegetables every year with proper care.

High beds pros and cons

The main advantages of high beds over classic ones include:

Possibility to equip a garden in areas not suitable for agriculture;
- digging and weeding is replaced by light loosening of the soil;
- it is convenient to work with high beds, because they are raised above the ground;
- heating of high beds occurs faster than ordinary ones;
- it is easier to remove weeds in a limited space;
- equipping a high bed provides good drainage;
- in high beds, vegetables and berries ripen faster, which is important for regions with a cold climate;
- a high bed is easily mounted and disassembled if necessary;
- beds in case of frost can be protected by covering with agrofibre or tarpaulin.

Disadvantages of high beds

A high bed requires frequent watering and enhanced mineral dressings. Such a pest as a bear loves to settle on high beds, you will have to follow and fight for it.

Material for beds - what to make high beds from

high bed- This is a frame of a certain size. The inside of the frame is filled with compost, soil, fertilizers. The shape of the frame can be different, the most common is a high rectangular bed.

Material for the manufacture of beds - boards, slate, plastic, branches and others.

Wood- the most affordable, easy to install and fairly inexpensive material. To assemble a garden bed, you need timber, boards, or small logs.

The main disadvantage wood is its fragility, which requires additional protective treatment.

Rods and vine- original, cheap material. The woven walls of high beds look attractive, and the shape of the bed itself can be made any.

Such a frame has a very short service life and you need to be able to weave a vine.

brick and stone- durable, reliable material for beds. But such beds are difficult to dismantle and the construction takes a lot of material and time.

plastic frame is an alternative to wood. Plastic is easy to assemble and disassemble, durable, strong.

But some types of plastic contain harmful substances, they cannot be used in the garden.

Beds from WPC- a framework for beds from a wood and polymeric composite. Beautiful appearance, durable material, connected with docking elements. The disadvantage is a very expensive material.

Metal- durable, convenient material for creating beds. You can easily change the appearance of the frame by painting in any color. To assemble such a frame, you need to have the skills of a welder, the material is quite expensive, surface treatment will be required to protect against corrosion.

Slate- a budget option for designing beds. Install such a bed quickly, slate is durable, you can paint the surface in any color. The disadvantage is the fragility of the material, care must be taken when assembling.

Summer residents use for the construction of high beds plastic bottles, old plastic boxes.

Video - High slate beds

Each gardener chooses the right size and shape of high beds on their own.

There are also optimal sizes at which the garden bed will be most effective:

Bed width 90-120 cm;
- the height of the beds from the surface of the earth is 15-50 cm.

Bed height it depends on where the soil will be poured - if immediately on fertile soil, then a height of 15-20 cm is enough, this is enough for a good harvest. If the site is not suitable for farming, the bed is raised by 30 cm. Warm beds are made even higher up to 50 cm by adding compost.

Bed width make it so that 2 rows of plants fit - it will be convenient to process it, the plants will receive enough sun and air.

High bed length does not play a role and is limited by the size of the site. Common beds with a length of 1.5-3 meters.

A comfortable row spacing is at least 45-50 cm, do not make a smaller distance, it will be inconvenient to move between the beds and process.

Do-it-yourself high beds from boards

An inexpensive and convenient option for making a frame for a high bed.

For work you will need:

Roulette
bayonet shovel
screwdriver
Hand saw for wood or electric jigsaw
Building level
Boards size 50x200 mm
Beam 50x50 mm
self-tapping screws
Construction mesh
Primer

Decide on the size of the frame. Cut the boards to size and cover on all sides with antiseptic impregnation (you can use used oil).

Also saw a beam 50 cm long and treat with an impregnating agent.

Lay out boards and timber to dry.

Choose a sunny location for a high bed, it should shine for at least 5 hours a day.

It is necessary to mark the boundaries of the beds, remove branches, stones, rhizomes of perennial plants. Dig the soil along with the grass, if it is dense, remove the layer of turf around the perimeter to conveniently expose the frame.

After drying, the boards are knocked down into shields, connecting them with bars. The height of the shields is the height of the beds. In the center of the long sides of the frame, additionally strengthen with transverse bars.

Upon completion, you can paint the frame from the outside.

Transfer the finished frame to the installation site. The structure should stand as evenly as possible, the corners should be at the same level.

At the end of the installation of the frame, add soil around the perimeter of the walls so that there are no gaps.

Video - Making high beds

How to fill a high bed

The bottom of the frame is covered with a construction mesh, nailed to the walls of the frame. The mesh is needed to protect against moles and mice. Then lay the geotextile that does not allow weeds to germinate.

Drainage in the form of bark, small branches, leaves, large chips;
- a layer of fertilizers: compost or rotted manure, bird droppings;
- grass, fallen leaves, bark, small branches: creating a permeable layer;
- a layer of organic matter which is supplemented with mineral fertilizers;
- a fertile layer of the earth, the composition of which depends on the type of plants that you plan to grow in the beds. The minimum layer thickness is 10 cm.

When filling, the thickness of each layer is approximately 10 cm, it is not necessary to mix with each other.

When the high bed is filled, it is necessary to shed well with water and leave for several days to shrink the layers.

It is better to cover the bed with black agrofiber or polyethylene from above at this time to ensure better heating of the bed.

The beds should be done at the end of summer or autumn - in this way the layers will well pereper until spring and there will be a sufficient amount of useful substances for plants in the soil. Leave this bed covered until spring.

When installing the beds in the spring, a month before planting the plants, spill the bed several times with water.

High beds can be easily turned into a greenhouse by installing arcs above the frame, which you can fix on the walls of the frame with self-tapping screws or bolts.

A film or special agrofibre is attached to the arcs from above.

Video - Do-it-yourself high beds

How to care for raised beds

When seedlings of plants appear in the garden, it is good to spill water and mulch. Weeds that break through the mulch layer are removed immediately.

When the entire crop is harvested, the high bed is loosened and sown with green manure. Replace damaged sections in the garden.

The organization of the garden space can be different, but fences for beds, bushes or flower beds will easily fit into the landscape design. The designs are practical, they can be created with your own hands, using the appropriate technology and choosing materials.

Types and features of fences

The fences used in the garden are varied and differ in appearance, design, materials. The main goal of any option is to provide protection to plants from weeds or flooding, crop separation. From an aesthetic point of view, fences are also important, because they allow you to properly organize the garden space, decorate the site.

Fences help maintain order in the suburban area

For beds

Beds are present in many garden plots. To separate garden crops, to ensure order in the country, bumpers for beds are needed. They can be made from various materials, but all designs are easy to do with your own hands. It is important to use high-quality and environmentally friendly materials. Otherwise, plants will not develop as efficiently as possible, because many artificial materials are unsafe for them.

Wooden boards

Fences for beds with plants are often wooden bumpers. This option is practical, easy to create and allows you to neatly divide the beds. Structures must have parameters equal to the parameters of the beds. Wooden products in the form of a box are made from boards with a thickness of 2 cm or more. The elements are fastened with self-tapping screws, treated with a wood preservative or painted. When choosing a material, it is best to give preference to larch, as it is more durable. Pine or other elements are also suitable, but processing is always necessary.

Wooden fences are practical, environmentally friendly and simple, but they have such a disadvantage as fragility. Under the influence of moisture, ultraviolet radiation, temperature changes, the wood becomes cracked, deformed or rots. Therefore, the boards need to be treated with antiseptics or stained.

Slate

Simple slate products are easy to do with your own hands if you already have the material. To create the sides, old slate is often used, removed from the roof when replacing the roof. The canvases are cut into long elements, the height of which corresponds to the thickness of the soil layer of the bed. The main advantage of this option is the availability of the material. The disadvantages are expressed in the fact that the old slate is very fragile and releases harmful components into the soil.

When creating the sides, it is necessary to additionally strengthen the slate elements with reinforcing corners or rods. They are installed along the length of the beds every meter, the rods, as it were, support the slate details. The appearance of such fences is quite concise, the structures can be painted with compounds intended for outdoor use.

Metal fences

Reliable fences for beds can be made of corrugated board or sheet metal with a galvanized or polymer coating. The cost of such structures is high, but if there is such a material, then it is important to know its features. The sides are strips of metal, which are fastened with special corners. A protective corner is also fixed along the upper edge, which makes the operation of the structure convenient, because the edges of the sheets are sharp.

Metal structures quickly heat up in the sun and contribute to the heating of the soil. This should be considered when using metal to separate the beds.

Video: beautiful garden fences, a selection of ideas

For bushes

Raspberry bushes, currants or other crops need additional support, as they spread branches a lot and lose their shape. For this purpose, fences made of wooden bars, PVC water pipes, metal and metal-plastic pipes are used. In any case, the structure consists of supports that go deep into the ground and provide stability to the fence. Support for the branches of shrubs is carried out with the help of the upper part in the form of a hoop. This option is versatile, in demand and easy to use.

As an easy option, pegs and a strong rope are often used. Along the circumference of the bush, supports are installed in the ground, and then the rope is pulled. The height of such a structure should be slightly less than half the bush. The structure allows you to raise the lower branches and make plant care simple and easy.

The advantages of bush stands are as follows:

• prevention of crop rotting, since the lower branches of the bushes do not touch the soil;
• ease of watering and caring for plants;
• more convenient harvesting;
• simplicity of designs from various materials;
• preventing the growth of shrubs;
• the possibility of forming the necessary shape of the bush.

The disadvantage of this design is that it cannot be used for very voluminous bushes with heavy branches. In this case, more reliable options are preferable, having reinforced supports and a square shape. Similar products can be made of metal or wood, metal-plastic pipes.

Fencing front gardens and flower beds

The front garden or flower garden can be open or closed. In the first case, no fences are used, and in the second, a fence is necessary. At the same time, the design separates ornamental plants from the rest of the site and complements the landscape design of the territory.

You can separate ornamental plants using a variety of wooden structures. A classic low picket fence is a versatile option for any site. And also effective are metal fences, which are made from strips of metal with a polymeric color coating. Wrought iron fences for the front garden look beautiful, but are very expensive.

Any option for fencing a flower garden or front garden should be beautifully designed, because the decorative function is important when using such structures. The height is calculated depending on the size of the plants that need to be separated from the main plot.

Supports for grapes

Grapes are often grown for ornamental purposes. This requires pergolas or horizontal trellises. Such structures can be in the form of gazebos, bowl-shaped or arched. The material for the manufacture is often wood, as it is environmentally friendly and easy to use.

It’s easy to make wood trellises with your own hands, but when using metal elements, you need a welding machine, fasteners with an anti-corrosion coating and other details. Wooden elements treated with stain and varnish are fastened with nails or self-tapping screws, creating a structure of the required shape. In any case, the dimensions of the tapestries are selected depending on their location. It is possible that the finished gazebo on the site will serve as a support for the grapes.

Video: do-it-yourself trellis making

Preparing for installation

To create any fence or small fence, it is important to calculate its parameters. Dimensions depend on the type and purpose of the structure. For example, fences for flower beds often do not exceed 50 cm in height, and higher structures are needed for ornamental shrubs. The length of the fence depends on the perimeter or circumference of the flower bed, but you should not place the structure close to the extreme plants on the flower garden. About 30 cm should be retreated from them, which will ensure comfortable care and proper development of greenery.

Before the construction of the fence, you can draw a diagram that reflects the shape, design parameters. And also on the diagram indicate the location of the main supports in the form of columns, the distance between them. This will allow you to calculate the required amount of material and determine the features of the installation.

How to choose material

Sides or a small fence can be made from a variety of materials. When choosing, you should be guided by the purpose of the fence. For example, concise, easy-to-use and eco-friendly wooden sides are best suited for arranging beds. Shrubs or a flower garden can be separated with brighter and more original options. For this purpose, improvised elements are also suitable. In any case, the quality of the material must be high, and it is also worth considering the installation technology.

The base for the fence can be made of the following materials:

1. Plastic bottles. You will need a large number of parts, which depends on the length of the fence. The bottles should have approximately the same bottom size, and for installation they just need to be deepened into the ground around the perimeter of the flower bed. Tanks should be filled with sand for greater strength. Pre-painting in bright colors will make such a fence unusual and beautiful.
2. Polycarbonate. From segments of cellular polycarbonate, colored or transparent, it is easy to make a fence for a flower bed. The ends of the elements must first be coated with a transparent sealant or silicone, and after drying, deepen the parts into the ground around the perimeter of the flower garden. The segments are glued together with a transparent adhesive for outdoor use.
3. Wooden boards, picket fence. There are many options for fences made of wooden elements. It is easy to make designs of any shape bright and original, or create practical borders for the garden.
4. Concrete slabs are convenient for durable fences. Elements of the same size are deepened into the soil along the perimeter of the flower bed. The soil around the fence should be well compacted.

Before choosing any material, it is important to pay attention to its quality. Polycarbonate, concrete products are expensive, but reliable and durable. Boards and metal profiles require anti-corrosion treatment, which will make them more practical. Therefore, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the features of the material, its advantages and disadvantages.

Table: pros and cons of materials

Calculation of the amount of materials and tools

When constructing a fence from boards for a flower garden, you need to determine the height of the structure, which depends on the size of the plants. A fence about 40 cm high is suitable for most flowers. After that, you need to retreat 30 cm from the extreme plants and measure the perimeter of the flower bed. The resulting figure is the length of the fence. For a picket fence, support posts, cross rails and slats are required. The distance between the pillars is 1 m, and between the slats is about 5 cm. In this case, the width of the slat should be about 10 cm. For a 50 cm high structure, two transverse logs are required. Thus, for every 100 cm of fence, approximately 7 planks are needed.

A fence for a flower garden can be made from ready-made picket fence sections, which can be wooden, plastic or metal. To do this, you need to determine the length of the fence and, depending on this, select the number of finished sections.

For self-assembly of a wooden fence, you will need the following tools:

• tape measure and building level;
• shovel and crushed stone;
• nails or screws;
• hammer or screwdriver;
• brush, wood preservative, paint.

Before work, you need to prepare the picket fence by sawing the planks into elements of the required length. The transverse logs should be a little more than 1 meter long, since the distance between the support posts is 100 cm, but the bars must be fixed to the supports.

Installation of a fence for a flower garden

Before work, an antiseptic designed for wood should be applied to all wooden elements. This will preserve the quality of the material and facilitate the work. For this purpose, you can use stain, which can be of various shades of natural wood. If the boards are very rough, then they should be sanded with medium-coated sandpaper before processing. After that, you need to remove the dust and apply a protective agent.

Drying of the product lasts several hours, and the exact time is indicated in the instructions. After this period, you can proceed with the installation, which includes the following steps:

1. With pegs and a rope, we mark the line of the future fence and places for supporting pillars. With a shovel we make recesses of 40 cm for the supports, the height of which should be about 1 m. At the bottom of the pits we pour sand with a layer of 5 cm, install the pillars, fill it with rubble, and tamp the soil on top.
2. On the transverse logs you need to attach the strips of the fence, observing the distance between them. Nails or self-tapping screws are used for fixing, and evenness is checked with a building level. At the same time, it is worth considering that the fence is assembled in sections, mounting each section in turn. It is necessary to fasten the planks to the logs with an indent from the edge by about 5 cm.
3. The prepared sections are fixed to the installed poles using self-tapping screws. Evenness is checked with a building level. In this case, the lower edges of the slats should not touch the soil closely. The distance between the soil and the sections should be about 3–5 cm.

Bush fences

Raspberry bushes, currants and other horticultural crops need a fence or a convenient support that allows the plants to develop comfortably. One of the simplest options is the design of PVC pipes, which has a rectangular shape. For work, pipes with a diameter of about 20 mm are required, as well as corner fittings that allow you to connect all the elements.

You can make a fence for bushes with your own hands using a welding machine for PVC pipes. And also pieces of products are necessary. Their length corresponds to the height of the structure (depending on the parameters of the bush). The diameter of the fittings is selected depending on the parameters of the pipes. After cutting the elements, you need to make holes near the bush, in the corners, up to 30 cm deep. The frame of the future fence is welded using a machine, connecting long sections with fittings. The structure is installed in the pits, ramming the soil.

Support for grapes

Cultivation of grapes of an ornamental or actively fruiting type requires the creation of a support or trellis. In the first case, any designs that allow vines to grow easily are appropriate. For example, a small arbor with lattice walls will provide a beautiful weaving of the stems.

Installation of a simple version of the tapestry involves the installation of two supports of 50x50 mm bars, the distance between which is determined depending on the required width of the structure. A fixing bar is attached to the upper ends, and then thin rails are mounted in the form of a lattice. All parts are pre-treated with a stain or other antiseptic. The finished structure can be varnished for outdoor use.

Video: how to make a simple fence for a garden bed or flower bed

Fences or fences will provide order and aesthetics to any garden plot. Simple designs are easy to do with your own hands, choosing high-quality materials.