What is better to lay under the slate. Laying slate on the roof: we are studying the technology of creating a slate roof. Chimney connection device

Despite the fact that quite a lot of roofing can be found on the market today, asbestos cement slate is still quite popular. However, many people do not know how to properly lay slate on the roof. This article is dedicated to those who decided to figure out how to lay slate with their own hands.

Varieties of slate for the roof

First you need to figure out what slate is. Today they sell wavy and flat sheets of asbestos cement slate. Both are designed to be used in a particular case. Often, flat slate is mounted on roofs with a slope of at least 35º. This is done because less snow will collect on the roof with such a slope, since flat sheets do not have stiffeners and are easier to break, unlike corrugated slate. However, corrugated slate is also not recommended for roofs with a slope of less than 20º, otherwise water can penetrate through the joints.

With a small roof slope, to improve protection against rainfall, before mounting the slate, a moisture-repellent carpet is laid from a simple roofing material or any other moisture-repellent material similar in properties. The sizes of slate sheets also have great importance, because the pitch of the crate and the cross section of materials for the manufacture of its nodes will depend on them.

Preparatory work before laying slate

Before laying the slate on the roof, the base under it must be well prepared. First, a crate is stuffed onto the installed rafters. If it is made from a board, then its dimensions in this case will be 15-20 cm wide and 2-2.5 cm thick. The board can be used both edged and unedged. The main thing is not to forget to sand the edges and impregnate the wood with antiseptic and flame retardant agents to prevent it from rotting and possible fire. When using bars, their cross section should be approximately 5 × 5 cm.

When purchasing raw materials, pay special attention to the quality of each board or bar, immediately putting aside defective boards and those that have traces of woodworms, there are many knots and bluish zones (indicate initial stage decay). The tree must be perfectly dried, otherwise, it will simply lead to an already installed roof, and it is unlikely that you will be able to properly lay the slate.

The slate laying scheme implies the early strengthening of the roof overhangs and the ridge with the help of boards laid in two rows without gaps. The bars for the crate are laid along the ridge at a right angle to the rafters, while the step is taken such that the slate sheets rest and are fixed at at least three points along the entire length. For asbestos cement slates of normal dimensions, the gaps between the battens of the battens or the center of the board, as a rule, should be approximately 55-60 cm.

After the installation of the crate is completed, equip the waterproofing with the help of roofing material. Sheets of this material are laid both along and across the roof slope. The direction will be determined by the angle of the structure. But in any case, the edges of the roofing material should overlap by approximately 10-15 cm. The smaller the slope of the roof, the greater should be the overlap of the roofing material strips. Do not forget about the insulation with roofing felt and the ridge of the roof.

Before installing the slate on the roof, it is advisable to lay fasteners for horizontal gutters.

How to lay slate

There are two ways to lay slate on the roof - with a shift of sheets, or with cutting corners. The first method is simpler and is used, as a rule, when it is necessary to equip a roof from asbestos-cement slate. minus this method excessive consumption of material is considered due to the fact that it is necessary to cut the extreme sheets along the length.

In addition, it is necessary to take into account the horizontal position of the laid material in relation to the ridge and the lower overhang of the roof. It is desirable to lay slate with a shift ("out of order") when slopes are installed on the roof, having big sizes in width. In this case, the sheets are shifted by one wave, and the cornice overhang is not installed.

The second laying method will explain how to properly lay slate on a roof whose slopes are large in height and small in width. The laying method is considered more complex, but in this case much less roofing material is required. It is worth making sure that four corners of adjacent sheets do not converge in one place. According to technology, if the slate is laid on the roof from left to right, the left corner of the sheet is cut, and if the material is laid in opposite side- that's the right corner.

To better understand how to properly lay slate, it is worth studying the basic nuances of working with such material. First, the slate sheets are prepared, that is, they are checked for defects, and holes are also made in them for subsequent fixation with nails. It is worth noting that the holes in the material should exceed the cross section of nails or self-tapping screws by about 2-3 mm.

If the slope has a slope of less than 20º, the installation of the slate begins by fixing it in the second wave from the edge. Try not to drive nails into the slate, but thread them through the holes prepared in advance. To trim the corners, you can use an ordinary grinder or a hacksaw for metal.

Use special nails with metal washer, which will prevent water from getting under the slate. If self-tapping screws are used as fasteners, then they must have thermal washers.

For proper styling slate at the junction of sheets, it is desirable to lay sealing cord, or seal them with silicones or special mastics. Before mounting the starting row of slate, a cord is pulled on the roof overhang to simplify construction work. The laying of slate sheets begins with the most leeward side in the region. Since there are a huge number of colors of slate sheets on the market at the moment, try to match the screws to match.

And finally, in order to fix the question of how to properly lay the slate, it is undesirable to fix the slate sheets to the crate too much - there must be a small gap. The number of nails required per sheet is determined based on the quality of the timber of the truss structure. A tree that has lasted a long time needs more fasteners. Sheets of asbestos cement should be fastened into a wave at the highest point. If you want to get the most durable fastening, it is better to use self-tapping screws. This may be relevant for those areas that are characterized by strong winds.

Now on the market there are many materials that are used for roofing roofs. However, some options are still popular in society and are in demand. In spite of a large number of modern and attractive analogues, waterproofing slate roof is for some people the best option create coziness and comfort in the house. The advantages of slate primarily relate to technical indicators, optimal price and easy styling.

According to experts, there are two types of slate: cement-fiber and asbestos-cement. Specifications materials are practically the same, except that asbestos is not included in the cement-fiber version. So this species has the least strength. Nevertheless, both options perfectly withstand the weight of a person, coping with the main tasks.

Interesting fact. Slate sheets are made from materials that have been pressed. You can also find unpressed slate on sale, however, it has a low level of density and shows less efficiency when sharp drop temperatures.

Slate is created either flat or fibrous. The only difference is their thickness and size.

Pros and cons of slate

The material is highly durable, weather resistant and long term services;
Fire protection;
Resistance to chemicals;
Low thermal conductivity;
Low cost;
Easy installation;
Wide choice of shades of color.

The disadvantages include the following factors: high weight, fragile structure, the appearance of moss.

It is important to remember that slate is very fragile, so you need to be extremely careful when installing. This work is best done in several people to avoid problems with roofing.

Waterproofing under slate

Slate, like other modern materials, requires special attention, since the quality of the work depends on the integrity of the structure. If we are talking about waterproofing, then only a few technologies are used in this case - roofing material and a polyethylene reinforced hydrobarrier.

Still, the hydrobarrier method is used more often by specialists, as it has a sufficient number of advantages.

It is worth noting that such material as roofing material has been used for decades as a waterproofing agent. The fact is that the component is impregnated with bitumen and made in the form of roofing cardboard. One of the sides is covered with a special powder, which is responsible for the reliability and strength of the roofing material. In this case, it is worth noting the following qualities of the element: elasticity, resistance to moisture, weather conditions and temperature changes. It is very easy to install, no special skills are needed to get the job done. Simultaneously with the installation of roofing material, mastic and bitumen are used. They provide a high-quality connection between the waterproofing of the roof and the base.

To install high-quality material on the roof, you must follow the rules:

At the very beginning, you need to process special composition surface wooden structure. For the roof, this procedure is very important.
In the form of a layer for a bunch, mastic or heated bitumen is used.
After that, the material is laid on the surface and takes root tightly. The width of the overlap depends on the size of the slope.
For the best waterproofing effect, the roofing material is heated, especially at the joints. Thus, there is a complete sealing of the seams.

In this case, it is worth remembering that the installation of roofing material cannot be mounted when low temperatures. Other modern waterproofing materials for slate roofing are sold on the market. For example, builders like to use such trade marks, like "Rubemast" or "Gidroizol". In this case, it all depends on the preferences of the client and the budget. Of course, foreign materials cost twice as much as domestic ones. However, Russian brands are now being produced no worse than foreign companies, since many enterprises install innovative equipment for production. This approach makes it possible to create high-quality and efficient building components.

Besides, than better roofing, the less problems with the roof will be in the future. After all, it leaks from time to time, delivering a large number of problems to the owners. If inexperienced specialists are involved in the work, then it is better to consult with highly qualified craftsmen who not only understand the assortment building materials, but also know the technology of laying the roof on the roof. In any case, before work, you need to clarify all the subtleties in order to correctly do the job.

roof can be made from flat, and wave slate. flat slate recommended for roofs with a large angle of inclination.

But anyway geographical location must be taken into account. region.

The surface of the slate sheet is different on both sides. On the one hand more corrugated, on the other hand smooth. When laying slate on a roof, the smooth side should be on top.

This is necessary in order to snow in winter time rolls off the roof with ease and does not create blockages that can lead to water flowing through the overlaps.

Calculate the number of sheets of slate required for covering it is necessary, taking into account the overlap, both in the horizontal and in the vertical row.

Start laying slate need from the side opposite to the prevailing winds in this region.

With normal installation on each sheet of slate, except for the extreme ones, two corners located diagonally are cut off in order to reduce the thickness of the overlap.

When laying with an offset, when the next horizontal row is shifted half the width of the slate sheet, this is not necessary.

How to insulate a roof under slate?

The main thing in roof insulation begins with the installation of slate. To do this, waterproofing is laid under the slate, as a rule, it is roofing material. But you can use other materials intended for this.

roof should be insulated with inside , i.e. from the attic or attic. Used for insulation various materials such as mineral wool and polystyrene.

Using mineral wool in a roll you need to fix it between the rafters in one or two layers with metal staples. Better to use special blocks made of mineral wool, they are more convenient for installation.

over mineral wool or blocks, a vapor barrier is laid. This is special material that lets moisture through in one direction and does not pass in the other, so you need to monitor the correct installation.

The side that does not allow moisture to pass must be outside. Vapor barrier interrupts directly to the rafters. This membrane does not need to be pressed tightly against the insulation, it should knit a little.

Bottom and top near the ridge there must be holes for ventilation.

Over this vapor barrier need to do extra trim. Fill the bars along the rafters, and across the slats. They can be attached to inner lining: plywood, chipboard, etc.

Insulation with polystyrene foam occurs in the same way, the seams between the plates must be filled with mounting foam.

Removing the slate roof

For to dismantle the slate you need to have a nail puller, wooden block, ropes with hooks tied, two guide boards or timber for safe lowering of sheets.

Dismantle the slate roof should be in reverse order to installation. The first row is removed near the ridge. Nails must be removed with a nail puller, after placing a wooden block under it so as not to damage the slate sheet.

See also:

Interesting information on how to cut slate when laying

Comparison of slate with metal tiles, ondulin corrugated board - tips from the master here

How to replace slate with metal tiles and corrugated board - expert advice here

You need to lower the sheet along the guides, hooking it at the bottom with two hooks with ropes. It will be better if you make a special hole in the slate with a nail for the hook.

And also watch a video about waterproofing a slate roof:

Do not know how to cover the roof with slate? The installation process is quite easy, so you can do it yourself. It is advisable to carry out certain types before laying preparatory work characteristic of slate roofing. They should provide additional reliability of the design.

Training

From the very beginning, you need to make a solid foundation - a crate. Unedged boards, which are installed at right angles to the rafters, are well suited for this. For attachment, self-tapping screws or nails are used, while the attachment distance must be observed - at least 40 cm, up to 75 cm. If there is a chimney pipe on the roof, the crate is also made around it.

Unedged boards do not fit together very well, in any case, there is a distance between their raw edges. Given this, you need to arrange them freely, not back to back. The task of such a crate is to serve as a base, and not a continuous surface. The distance between the boards is allowed up to 10-12 cm.

Also take into account that drainpipe should be set in advance.

The main stages of slate coating

Waterproofing

1. Roofing felt, roofing material or a number of modern rolled roofing materials are usually laid under the slate. waterproofing materials on a bitumen basis ("Gidroizol", "Rubemast" and the like). Roll rolled out horizontally, starting from the bottom row. If desired, you can weld the rolled sheets together. In this case, one should be guided by the technology indicated for this material - how much to overlap, which side to lay, how to weld.

The steeper the roof (slope), the less the need to weld the waterproofing together.

2. Fastening roofing material and others like it does not make sense, since slate sheets are subsequently attached through to the crate, capturing the waterproofing as well. When laying sheets of roofing material, it is only necessary to be guided by practical meaning: so that before installing the slate, the waterproofing does not fly away from gusts of wind or under the weight of its own weight on a steep roof.

covering

1. Laying of slate is carried out from the bottom rows. Installation must begin from the bottom first, usually with three slate sheets. The overlap is produced on one wave, regardless of the number of waves and their size (length). Slate is fastened with special slate nails with a wide hat. One sheet of slate is punched in four or six places, depending on its length.

Fastening is carried out in the second wave, in the first - it is impossible! In the place of overlap, the slate does not break through two sheets! For slate with eight waves, such nails are hammered in even - the second and sixth waves, placing them on the crest, and for seven-wave - in the 2nd and fifth. Nails should be driven into the top of the wave, not the bottom.

2. Then two sheets of slate are strengthened in the next row, and another sheet is added to the first row, and then the top one is placed. Thus provide Free access to all sheets. Laying slate on the roof is carried out until the final closing of the entire slope of the roof surface.

Add-ons

For inexperienced people who are laying slate with their own hands for the first time: it is necessary to drill a place for nails before hammering, otherwise you can split the surface by hitting with a hammer. Holes should be larger than the size of a nail by up to about two millimeters, so consideration should be given to sealing them and sealing them against water intrusion. In one case, you can use a rubber gasket, a plastic washer or a piece of roofing material, or in another - after driving under the hat, pour a hermetic agent. Nails should not be driven in so hard, there should be a small gap between the surface and the cap. The correct nail is the one whose head ends up lightly touching the slate.
Nails can be exchanged for screws specially designed for such technologies. Holes, if convenient, can be done with a drill.
Modern fasteners for slate can be equipped with rubber gaskets under the hat - then it is not necessary to seal the holes.
Improving the quality of the roof coating is facilitated by the laying of a vapor barrier membrane under it.
It is recommended to cut all irregularities on the slate cut with a grinder, the power of which will be enough up to one kW, with a disk diameter of up to 1.8 cm and a thickness of up to 1.6 mm - this optimal solution; if apply thick abrasive disc, then you can get bogged down in slate, and thin, on the contrary, will not be able to cut it at all. Pruning should be carried out very carefully, smoothly and slowly lowering, so as not to provoke the formation of cracks and chips along the edges. As a result of such pruning, slate dust is formed containing asbestos, which is harmful to health, in this case, a freshly sawn cut is required to process acrylic paint on the water based. Carry out work in a respirator.

To extend the life of the roof, it would be good to treat the surface with an antiseptic - this will protect against swelling and reproduction of mosses, and if paint is applied to the laid slate, then protection from various atmospheric influences and precipitation can be ensured.

In the case of laying flat slate, the crate must be made solid, and before its installation it is proposed to draw a grid, along the cells of which such sheets will be laid. flat sheets it is possible to lay on a surface that has a slope of slightly more than twenty degrees, using the same technology as that of the wave one.

The device of a roof from slate comes to an end with an establishment of gutters under which it is required to lay roofing material. Next, make a drainage system, put on an iron apron on the chimney and ventilation pipe.

Summary

At self-laying You can save a lot without hiring professionals. And do not forget to stock up on slate sheets, although they are heavy and dense, they are fragile, which can lead to accidental and unaccounted for damage to the roofing material.

Almost every living space needs a vapor barrier. What it is? What type of material is best for a vapor barrier? And what side to put it to the heater? These and other questions regarding vapor barrier and its installation are answered by our experts in this article.

What is the function of a vapor barrier? The fact is that it is usually customary to install a heater on the inside of the room, and when it comes into contact with warm air may be covered with water droplets. Where does moisture come from? The explanation is simple: the steam settles on the walls of the room and, when cooled, passes from a vaporous state to a liquid one. To prevent such a situation, you need to install a vapor barrier.

Experts identify several main functions of a vapor barrier:

increase the service life of thermal insulation materials;
protection of the room from excessive humidity.

Material selection

The roof of slate is always popular in the construction of cottages, cottages, country houses, garages and other buildings.

This is enough inexpensive material: one square meter roofing, taking into account waterproofing and fastening systems, will cost you about 250 - 300 rubles when laying slate with your own hands.

If you use the services professional installers, then the cost of the roof will increase slightly, but it will still remain quite acceptable.

The service life of the slate correct installation is over 50 years old. At the same time, the material reliably protects the room from moisture penetration, is not afraid of precipitation and sun rays, fire resistant.

The size and thickness of slate sheets are regulated by GOSTs: standard sheet of 6 - 8 waves should be 1.75 m in length.

The width varies from 5.8 mm to 7.5 mm depending on the type of sheet. Asbestos cement, the main material for the production of slate, is gray or light gray in color.

To give the material a different color, a special technology using pigments is used, so you can easily choose an option that harmoniously fits into the architecture of the building.

A shed roof may have a smaller angle of inclination, but before covering the roof with slate, a denser crate and a reliable waterproofing layer should be installed.

Lay sheets on flatter roofs with a strong overlap, up to 30 cm.

Calculation of the required number of sheets

Before you start laying slate yourself, you need to calculate how many sheets you will need for construction work.

It is necessary to accurately measure the dimensions of the roof with a tape measure or use the drawings if the roof has not yet been erected.

Materials should be bought with a small margin so that at the last moment you do not have to go to the store for additional materials and arrange delivery.

The length of the roof is measured by the cornice overhang, then divided by the width of one sheet.

10% is added to the figure obtained - this is a margin for laying slate sheets with an overlap. Round the resulting figure - so many full sheets will be required for one horizontal row.

Then measure the length of the roof from the edge eaves overhang to the ridge, add 15 - 20% and round again.

Divide the resulting figure by the length of one sheet - so you will find out how many horizontal rows it will take to completely cover the roof.

The product of the two results obtained is the total number of sheets that will be required.

When choosing slate in a store, carefully check the integrity of each sheet, as this is a fragile material that easily forms chips and cracks.

Be sure to make sure that the material is well packed for transportation: several layers of paper are laid between the sheets so that they are not damaged during transportation.

Before ordering slate from the store, prepare a place to store it: choose a large flat area and cover it with a waterproof film.

The slate is very heavy (the weight of one sheet can reach 30 - 35 kg), so it must be stored in an easily accessible place where it will be convenient for workers to approach.

Preparing the truss system for laying

Before you start laying slate, you need to prepare a reliable truss system.

Because slate is heavier than most modern materials, rafter system must be very durable and withstand heavy physical exertion.

The crate will serve good foundation for styling.

Before you cover the roof with slate with your own hands, pay attention to a few important details:

rafter legs should be made of high-quality, well-dried materials. The minimum thickness of the board section is 60 by 150 mm, the optimal one is 100 by 150 mm. Give preference to beams without branches or unedged boards;
the minimum size of the bars for the crate is 6 cm by 6 cm, it is better to give preference conifers. The more flat roof you are going to cover it with slate yourself, the stronger the crate should be;
the weight of the slate is a big load even for a strong crate, so it is important to evenly distribute the load. Optimal support for the sheet can be provided by 3-4 bars located no closer than 15-16 cm from the edge of the sheet;
to provide more reliable support in the crate, it is better to use bars of various diameters. In even rows, as a rule, bars are installed standard size, and in odd ones - 2-3 mm higher. The bar for the cornice should be another 2-3 mm higher. The easiest way to increase the size of the bars is to build them up with special linings.

Installation of the crate near the chimney requires compliance with the rules fire safety. The minimum distance from the pipe to the bars is 13 cm.

Slate cutting technology

To lay the slate yourself, you first need to prepare, sort and cut the sheets. For cutting, you will need a hacksaw, grinder or jigsaw.

Slate is cut on special wooden bridges so that the cutting line is raised above the ground. The cut line is marked using a long ruler or a straight line.

If you are going to cut the slate yourself with a jigsaw or a hacksaw, then moisten the cutting line with plenty of water - this will soften the material, prevent overheating, and precipitate asbestos dust.

During the cutting process, constantly water both the slate itself and the tool with water.

Slate can be cut with sharpened nails or a drill.

Holes with a diameter of 5 mm are made along the cutting line in increments of about half a centimeter.

Then the material must be placed on a table or other reliable support and carefully split.

Asbestos dust can cause serious harm to health, so it is necessary to cut the slate in a special respiratory mask, abundantly moistened with water.

Now let's talk about how to lay the slate correctly on your own, without the involvement of specialists.

Instructions for laying the material with your own hands

Laying slate on the roof begins with planning work. Pay attention to the direction of the wind: start laying the material from the leeward side - so even with a strong wind or thunderstorm the roof will not leak at the joints.

To lay the rows evenly, stretch a rope or cord along the eaves.

There are two types of slate roofing: apart (horizontal rows are slightly offset relative to each other so that the joints do not coincide) or without offset (at the intersection of the seams, the corners of each sheet are slightly cut).

Proper installation of slate is the key to the durability and reliability of the roof. Read the instructions to the end before laying the slate, pay attention to how to properly nail the slate.

Staggered laying

Before covering the roof with slate, cut all the sheets necessary for work. The sheets are laid with a slight overlap to provide more reliable waterproofing, horizontal rows.

The main task: to shift each subsequent row relative to the previous one so that the joints do not coincide. This is how the laying of slate is carried out with your own hands.

The first row can be laid out from solid sheets so that they slightly overlap each other. The horizontal rows should overlap slightly.

Fastening is carried out using special nails or self-tapping screws, while be sure to place a soft pad under the hat, for example, made of rubber.

The first sheet of the second horizontal row must be cut a little along, by one or two waves, so that the joints of the second row move and do not coincide with the joints of the first. Further, starting from the second, you can lay whole sheets.

Just like the sheets themselves, the horizontal rows should overlap each other a little. With a slope of 20 degrees, slate can be laid with an overlap of 14–17 cm, with a more gentle slope, it is necessary to increase the overlap to 20–22 cm to ensure reliable waterproofing.

The first sheet of the third row is cut even further to allow for further offset relative to the second row, and so on—each stacked row should be slightly offset.

So, if you cut the first sheet of the second row into one wave, then in the third row you will have to cut two or three waves, in the fourth - into three or four, etc.

To avoid large material loss, use a half sheet width offset, alternating between whole sheets and halves in even and odd rows.

Slate installation should be carried out carefully. Before nailing the slate, make holes slightly larger diameter, do not drive nails in tightly.

A small gap will allow you to compensate for various climate change and roof shifts.

With temperature changes, the volume of slate changes, so if the nails are hammered in too tightly, the material may crack or split.

Do-it-yourself laying technology without displacement

To properly lay the slate without displacement, you must first prepare the sheets.

With this installation method, a corner is cut off from the sheets, which overlaps with the already laid sheet.

Laying starts from the right or left lower edge of the roof - the whole sheet is laid first.

If you started work on the right side, then all other sheets of the first row must be cut off the right top corner. If you started laying on the left side, then the upper left corner is cut off.

Sheets for the second and all subsequent rows except the last must be prepared in advance by cutting corners at all intersections.

Since the first sheet of each row only touches the other sheets at one edge, you only need to trim the bottom corner, right or left, depending on which side you started working on.

At the last sheet, only the upper corner on the corresponding side should be cut off.

For the rest of the sheets in the row, the upper and lower corners are cut off at the intersection with the adjacent row. Lastly, another solid sheet is laid.

Now you know how to properly cover the roof with slate with your own hands, how to lay and how to attach slate to the roof.

Do-it-yourself slate roofing is reliable and inexpensive, and it is always a pleasure to invest your work in creating warmth and comfort in the house.

Slate is a popular material that is inexpensive, but has high reliability and durability. If it is painted, then in terms of decorativeness it will be able to boldly compete with modern roofing novelties. Therefore, the scope of slate is practically unlimited: asbestos-cement roofs can also be found on modest suburban buildings, and luxury cottages.

The spread of the material is also facilitated by the fact that laying slate on the roof is not a difficult job, anyone can do it. But in order for the coating to serve, as it should, for at least half a century, it will be necessary to study all the nuances of this simple but important event.

Many people think that slate is universal roofing material. This is not true. To precipitation did not seep under the slate, it is recommended to lay it only on one or gable roofs with a slope of at least 15°. If you want to use a flatter roof as a base, you will have to build a serious waterproofing under the crate from several layers of roofing material or membrane, as well as increase the overlap of adjacent sheets up to 300 mm.

Slate laying methods

To get a roof covering, the slate is fixed on the crate in horizontal rows, moving from the bottom up (from the eaves). Each subsequent sheet in a row is superimposed on the previous one for 1-2 waves. Each subsequent row is also shifted to the previous one, as a rule, by 120-200 mm.

There are two ways to lay out the slate:

Off the beaten path- when slate sheets of one horizontal row are mounted with a shift of 1-4 waves in relation to the sheets of the adjacent row. The joining line is stepped. This technology is recommended for roof slopes that are wide in the transverse direction (horizontally), but narrow in slope.
No offset- when the slate sheets are mounted the same, in even rows, no shift. The joints of all rows form one line. Since during laying it is not allowed to arrange a double overlap (that is, to combine more than 2 layers of slate at one point), the edges of the sheets are cut at an angle of 30 ° -60 °. This method is most rational for covering slopes that are wide in slope, but small in diameter.

As a rule, wave slate is laid apart. This option is less laborious, since it is not associated with large quantity pruning. Mounting slate without offset is much more difficult, since almost every sheet has to be cut at the corners. But this technology also has a significant advantage - it allows you to save material.

Consider step by step the process of covering the roof with slate, focusing on the difference in the two layout schemes.

Slate laying technology

First of all, for fixing the slate, it is necessary to prepare the base - the crate, which is fixed directly on the rafters. The crate is continuous and sparse.

A solid crate is a flooring made of OSB, plywood or boards. Such a base, as a rule, is used if it is required to cover the roof with slate with a non-standardly small thickness.

For a typical slate with a thickness according to GOST, a sparse crate is recommended - a structure made of bars installed with a certain step over the rafters. A suitable section of the crate is 40-70 mm. Too thin bars are not used, in view of their possible damage under external load (for example, under the influence of fallen snow). Too thick bars - also bad. When warped, they can cause asbestos-cement fibers to break and crack the slate.

It is recommended to use bars as part of the crate frame different heights. Ordinary bars usually have a section of 60x60 mm, they are fixed in odd rows. Even rows are made up of elements whose height is slightly higher - by half the thickness of the slate used. For example, if the thickness of the slate is 6 mm, then the height of the "even" bars is 63 mm. The first (cornice) bar also has a different height - 66 mm, which should rise above the ordinary ones by the thickness of the slate sheet. For uniformity, a different scheme is often used: they use slats of the same height - 60x60 mm, but, in even rows and near the cornice, they build them up with 3 mm thick linings.

The crate is fixed on the rafters, at a right angle, using nails or self-tapping screws. Since slate is a durable, non-bending material, 3 support bars are enough to install each sheet. The step of the lathing of the bars depends on the length of the sheet. Standard length is 1750 mm, respectively, the pitch of the crate is 700-750 mm.

On the ridge, 1-2 beams of the crate are installed (on each slope) for the subsequent fastening of the ridge parts on them. The height of the bars is selected on the spot, in fact.

Additionally, a crate is made around the chimney. To do this, ordinary bars are fixed around the perimeter of the pipe shaft at a distance of at least 130 mm from it (to ensure fire safety).

Stage #2. Calculation of the amount of slate

The correct calculation of the amount of slate is another milestone, which will save the roofer from having to buy 1-2 missing sheets at the last moment and order transport for this.

It must be understood that not the entire surface of the material goes to the direct coating of the roof. Part of the area (along the perimeter of the sheet) is lost under the overlap.

Therefore, the calculation of the amount of slate is carried out as follows:

1. Determine the amount of slate in the transverse (horizontal) row (P) according to the formula:

P \u003d (L + 2C) / (B 2 - B 1),

L- slope width;
With- removal of the overhang on the gables;
B2- sheet width;
IN 1- the width of the sheet under the overlap.

2. Determine the amount of slate in the longitudinal row (n) using the formula:

n \u003d (L o + C 1) / (L 2 - L 1),

Lo- slope length;
C1- the size of the overhang from the cornice (approximately 100 mm);
L2= – sheet length;
L1- the size of the longitudinal overlap of the sheet.

3. The figures obtained are rounded up to a whole number, multiplied and the total number of sheets per 1 roof slope is obtained. If the roof is gable, then the calculated number of sheets (+ 10% - for battle and marriage) is purchased in double quantity.

Stage #3. Cutting slate sheets

Before lifting slate sheets to the roof, it is necessary to sort them and, in accordance with the chosen laying scheme, cut them.

You can cut slate with several tools:

grinder;
hacksaw for wood or foam concrete;
jigsaw;
using a drill or slate nail and hammer.

The easiest and fastest way to cut slate is with a grinder with a stone (concrete) disc or a diamond disc.

Cutting process:

a sheet of slate is laid on board walkways so that the cut point is raised above the ground;
make the marking of the cutting line with the help of a flat wooden slat;
the cutting place is watered to avoid overheating of the disc, to make the slate softer and more pliable, and to precipitate the released asbestos-cement dust;
perform a cut, constantly wetting the cut line and the disk of the grinder (pouring them with water from a bottle).

Sheets are cut in the same way with a hacksaw or a jigsaw, however, when using these tools, you need to be extremely careful not to break them.

special attention deserve cutting methods with a drill or a slate nail.

When using a drill, with a 2 mm drill, through holes are made along the cut line in increments of 0.5 cm. At the end of drilling, the sheet is placed with one edge on a support (table, for example), and the other edge is pressed, after which the slate splits along the intended line.

Instead of a drill bit, you can use a sharpened nail and a hammer to get through holes. To do this, set the nail on the intended line and hit the hat with a hammer. Strikes should be accurate, strong enough, but not sharp. In this way, multiple pinholes are punched at a small distance from each other. After that, the sheet is split into two parts.

The technology for cutting a slate sheet with a grinder is shown in the video plot:

Stage #4. Laying slate sheets

Laying slate begins on the side opposite to the direction of the prevailing winds. That is, the installation of sheets starts from the left side, if strong winds blow from the right, and vice versa. This will prevent rain and snow from blowing into the places where the sheets overlap.

A cord is pulled along the eaves at a distance of the length of the overhang in order to level the rows of slate along it. Instead of a cord, you can use a flat wooden lath.

The sequence of work in the layout apart:

1. The first horizontal row begins to be made up of whole sheets of slate. Each subsequent sheet overlaps 1-2 waves of the previous one (as a rule, 1 wave falls on the overlap). Fastening is performed using roofing nails or self-tapping screws with soft (rubber) gaskets.

2. In the second row, the first sheet is cut into a number of waves, depending on the desired amount of offset. Then put whole, uncut, products. The sheets overlap the underlying row, forming an overlap of 200 mm - with a slope of 15-20 °, 150 mm - with a slope of more than 20 °. That is, the greater the slope, the less the allowable overlap.

3. The third and all subsequent rows begin with sheets cut to twice the number of waves cut off at the first sheet of the underlying row. For example, if the first sheet of the second row was shortened by 1 wave, then the first sheet of the third row will have to be cut into 2 waves, then by 3 waves, etc. It is more convenient to carry out an offset of 1/2 the width of the slate. In this case, only the sheets in each even row will have to be cut in half. Odd rows are made up of whole sheets.

4. The ridge row is laid last, making it up from sheets cut across.

In the scenario without offset:

1. The first sheet is laid whole, not cut off. Align it with a cord, fix it with nails or self-tapping screws. For subsequent sheets of the first row, the upper right corner is beveled at an angle (if installation starts from the right side of the slope).

2. At the first sheet of the second row, the lower left corner is cut off, after which it is joined with the cut corner of the second sheet in the first row. Subsequent sheets are beveled in two corners - in the upper right and lower left (located diagonally). At the last sheet of the second row (located on the left), only the upper right corner is cut off.

3. The elements of the upper row (under the ridge) are cut along the lower left corner and in height - in fact. At the last sheet, the corners are not cut off. A similar scheme for forming corners is reliable only when laying sheets from right to left. If the mounting direction goes from left to right, then trimming is performed in opposite corners (instead of left corners - right ones and vice versa).

Stage #5. Installation of additional elements

After covering the roof with slate, the finishing stage begins - the installation of additional elements. To cover the ridge, it is advisable to use special ridge parts made of asbestos cement. Each such element consists of two parts connected on hinges. As an alternative to the factory part, you can use a galvanized sheet bent at bending machine or by hand.

Chimney collars, dormer windows and junctions with the walls are made using asbestos cement corner pieces or galvanized collars. They are fixed over the slate sheets with self-tapping screws passed through the crests of the waves. The upper edge of the apron is attached to the wall and sealed. The lower edge overlaps at least 1 wave of an ordinary sheet.

The valleys are covered with galvanized or asbestos-cement trays, installing them from the bottom up. In this case, the longitudinal walls of the tray must be overlapped with slate sheets by at least 150 mm.

At the end of the fixing of the additional elements, the laying of the slate roof can be considered completed.

Features of fastening slate on the roof

An important nuance that should be discussed separately is the selection of fasteners and their use in the process of attaching slate to the roof.

As fasteners you can use:

Slate (roofing) nails. Manufactured from durable steel, main feature- an enlarged hat, reaching 14 mm in diameter. To exclude the appearance of rust, hats are made of galvanized or metal coated with an anti-corrosion compound. Length slate nails should be directly proportional to the height of the slate wave. That is, the higher the waves of slate, the longer the nails driven into them. According to the recommendations of experts, the length of the nails should be 10 mm longer than the total value of the slate wave height (where fastener) and the thickness of the crate (bar or board). The excess rod does not need to be bent.
Self-tapping screws for slate. These fasteners are more expensive than nails, but also more convenient to use. Self-tapping screw heads can have three versions: under wrench(hex shape), flat screwdriver (straight slot), Phillips screwdriver (phillips slot). Under the cap is a sealing washer with a rubber gasket. Some manufacturers paint heads and washers in various colors(most often - based on RAL).

Fasteners are mounted in two ways (optional):

In pre-drilled holes in the slate. Their diameter should be 2-3 mm wider than the rods of the fasteners. The resulting gap will protect the slate from cracking during movement wooden crate, but can cause water to leak under the roof. To prevent this from happening, put on fasteners rubber gasket, which seals the slate roof. Self-tapping screws for slate are structurally equipped with such a gasket, unlike roofing nails. Therefore, under the nails, the waterproofing washer will have to be bought separately or cut out independently - from rubber, roofing material or roofing felts. Then it is put on the rod, under the hat.
No pre-drilled holes(this method is recommended by most "experienced" masters). In this case, only roofing nails without gaskets are used to fasten the slate to the roof. The nail is driven into the coating with light hammer blows so that the asbestos-cement layer crumbles from impacts, and does not crack. Otherwise, the slate may burst. However, even with the right technology for driving nails directly into the slate, cracking often occurs. It's connected with bad quality material, which, unfortunately, is found all the time.

An important feature of fastening: during installation, a nail or self-tapping screw is not pulled to the limit to slate sheet, and leave a small gap of 2-3 mm - to compensate for thermal expansion. If you neglect this advice, then soon the slate roof will crack.

Fasteners are installed only in the protruding parts of the wave (into the crest), where the slate is in contact with the crate (for connecting roofing sheet with frame material). Fastening is carried out at a distance of 80-100 mm from the edges of the sheets.

for 5-wave slate - fastening in the 2nd and 4th waves;
for 6-wave slate - fastening in the 2nd and 5th waves;
for 8-wave slate - fastening in the 2nd and 6th waves.

Since slate usually rests on 3 lathing bars, and fastening is carried out at the points of contact of 2 waves with the lathing, the total number of nails (self-tapping screws) for each sheet is 6 pieces.

Some additional nuances of how to cover the roof with slate can be found in the video clip:

Conclusions - is it possible to do everything yourself?

The technology of slate roofing is very simple. She won't ask you special costs time, labor and Money. Despite this, the roof will turn out beautiful (especially if you get acquainted with the paint for slate!), Reliable and durable.

roof can be made from flat, and wave slate. Flat slate is recommended for roofs with a large angle of inclination.

But anyway geographical location must be taken into account. region.

The surface of the slate sheet is different on both sides. On the one hand more corrugated, on the other hand smooth. When laying slate on a roof, the smooth side should be on top.

This is necessary in order to snow in the winter. rolls off the roof with ease and does not create blockages that can lead to water flowing through the overlaps.

Calculate the number of sheets of slate required for covering it is necessary, taking into account the overlap, both in the horizontal and in the vertical row.

Start laying slate need from the side opposite to the prevailing winds in this region.

With normal installation on each sheet of slate, except for the extreme ones, two corners located diagonally are cut off in order to reduce the thickness of the overlap.

When laying with an offset, when the next horizontal row is shifted half the width of the slate sheet, this is not necessary.

roof must be insulated from the inside., i.e. from the attic or attic. For insulation, it uses various materials, such as mineral wool and polystyrene.

Using mineral wool in a roll you need to fix it between the rafters in one or two layers with metal staples. It is better to use special mineral wool blocks, they are more convenient for installation.

A vapor barrier is laid on top of mineral wool or blocks. This is a special material that allows moisture to pass through. in one direction and does not pass in the other, so you need to monitor the correct installation.

Bottom and top near the ridge there must be holes for ventilation.

Over this vapor barrier need to do extra trim. Fill the bars along the rafters, and across the slats. It will be possible to fix the inner lining on them: plywood, chipboard, etc.

Insulation with polystyrene foam occurs in the same way, the seams between the plates must be filled with mounting foam.

For to dismantle the slate you need to have a nail puller, wooden block, ropes with hooks tied, two guide boards or timber for safe lowering of sheets.

You need to lower the sheet along the guides, hooking it at the bottom with two hooks with ropes. It will be better if you make a special hole in the slate with a nail for the hook.

And also watch a video about waterproofing a slate roof: