Make a chimney. How to make a chimney. Brick or special concrete blocks with round holes

1 General rules for the design and assembly of chimneys

The design and installation of chimneys must be carried out in accordance with the current regulations:

SNiP 41-01-2003; VDPO (RULES FOR THE PRODUCTION OF WORK, REPAIR OF FURNACES AND SMOKE CHANNELS); SP 7.13130.2009.

The task of the chimney is to remove combustion products and provide normal draft to maintain combustion. Traction level depends on height smoke channel and chimney diameter.

When installing the chimney, observe following rules:

• The height of the chimney from the heater to the head must be at least 5 m.
• The elevation of the chimney above the ridge / parapet is determined according to the diagram (Fig. 1).

• The elevation of the chimney above the closely spaced roofs of neighboring buildings must be at least 1.5 meters.
• If the chimney rises above the roof by 1.5 meters or more, it must be additionally secured with braces (Fig. 2).
• In the design of the chimney, it is recommended to provide plugs with a condensate trap to remove the resulting condensate and / or revision to allow cleaning and maintenance of the smoke channel

• If the roof is made of combustible materials, a spark arrester made of mesh with a mesh size of no more than 5 x 5 mm should be installed in the chimney.
• When designing and assembling a chimney, narrowing the diameter of the chimney is not allowed, but its broadening is allowed. (For example, to assemble a chimney of a heating stove with an outlet diameter of 115 mm, a chimney with a section of 110 mm cannot be used, but a 120 mm chimney can be used using an adapter from 115 mm to 120 mm).
• The length of the horizontal section of the chimney should not exceed 1 meter.
• The joints of the chimney elements should not coincide with the places of ceiling and roof passages, passages in the wall.
• Elbows and tees must be installed so that they do not bear the weight of the chimney elements installed above them.

2 Chimney design and calculation mounting elements

CHIMNEY DIAMETER. The chimney diameter must be equal to or larger diameter heater outlet. To switch from one diameter to another, the "Adapter" element of the corresponding diameter is used.

SELECTION OF THE TYPE OF PIPE. Application ordinary pipe or insulated pipe depends on the location of the chimney. Ordinary pipes are used only in heated rooms. Insulated pipes can be used in heated and unheated premises, and outdoors. The choice between a conventional and insulated pipe in heated rooms is made by the consumer, comparing the cost, fire safety and comfort during operation. To switch from a conventional chimney pipe to an insulated pipe, use the "Transition from non-insulated to insulated" pipe.

BASE PLATFORM. The choice of the chimney design with or without the use of the support platform "Cantilever bracket" is determined by the design of the heater and the location of the chimney.

Without a support platform, it is possible to use only a flat vertical chimney resting directly on the heating device. Figure #3.

In all other cases, it is necessary to use the "Cantilever Bracket" support pad. Figures 4, 5, 6 Location load-bearing element"Cantilever bracket" should be at least 5 meters along the height of the chimney.

TURNING THE CHIMNEY. To change the direction of the chimney, use the "Bend or outlet insulated at 45 or 90 degrees"

COLLECTING CONDENSATE AND CLEANING THE CHIMNEY. To collect condensate from the chimney and clean the chimney, a “Tee or tee insulated at 45 or 90 degrees” is used together with the “Plug with a condensate drain” or “Deaf plug” element.

PASSAGE THROUGH THE CEILING. If the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is necessary to use the element "Insulated ceiling passage". Which should be 70 mm more than the thickness of the ceiling.

IMPORTANT

• In some heat generating devices (furnaces, boilers) there may be an increased temperature of the exhaust gases. This will require additional insulation of building structures and individual study of the ceiling passage unit to ensure fire safety. During the operation of the chimney, it is necessary to control the temperature on the outer surface of the element “Insulated passage through the ceiling” and, if necessary, replenish the insulation layer when it shrinks.
• The surface of the chimney during operation heats up. If the chimney passes near building structures made of combustible materials, it should not heat them above 50 ° C (clause 4.39.8 of GOST R 53321-2009).

PASSAGE THROUGH THE ROOF. If the chimney passes through the roof, then it is necessary to use the “Roof passage” element or the “Rubber seal for roof” element, straight or angled. When installing the chimney through the roof, the current regulations must be observed. building codes and fire safety regulations.

CHIMNEY COMPLETION. To complete the chimney, standard elements "Umbrella" or "Insulated Umbrella" are used.

IMPORTANT
- For heating installations operating on gas, the chimney must remain open!

CHIMNEY FASTENING. The fastening must exclude the possibility of deflection and any displacement of the chimney from the wind or its own weight. For this, the "Wall Mount" element is used, which is installed at the rate of: 1 mount for every 2 meters of the chimney.

For counting required amount elements, draw a diagram of the chimney, taking into account all the above rules and recommendations. The number of straight sections of bends and tees is determined by the layout of the chimney and its design. Typical schemes chimney assemblies are shown in figures 3 to 6.

3 Chimney assembly

• Installation of the chimney starts from the bottom, from the heating or heating device upwards. To be able to regulate the draft, install the "Shiber" element in the chimney.
• It is recommended to collect the elements of the chimney "by condensate" so that condensate and tar deposits do not go outside.
• All joints of pipes and other elements (bends, tees, etc.) must be sealed with heat-resistant mastic-sealant, carefully connected to each other throughout the entire depth of the landing socket and fastened with the “Clamp” element in EVERY connection.
• After installation, a test furnace should be carried out, during which it is necessary to check the tightness of the joints and make sure that the adjacent structures made of combustible materials are not exposed to high temperatures and do not heat up.

When using the chimney for the first time, there may be an odor and light smoke, resulting from the evaporation of oil residues from the metal surface and the crystallization of sealing materials.

When heating a stainless steel chimney, including a double-walled chimney, tint colors may appear on its surface, which is not a defect. The chimney needs maintenance. The chimney should be cleaned regularly, at least 2 times during the heating season.

All efforts to arrange your country house can literally fly into a pipe if this very pipe is poorly designed and made. Reverse draft will provoke smoke and waste. Or the elements of the roof will become hot, which will entail a fire. The efficiency of your stove or boiler depends on the chimney. Therefore, you need to understand the device of a steel chimney well and competently approach its manufacture with your own hands.

What is a chimney and how does it work

The chimney is one of the main components of your heating device, whether it is an old brick oven or an ultra-modern gas boiler. Your safety and budget depend on the free passage of flue gases through the chimney: with a well-calculated and built chimney, the stove consumes much less fuel. Previously, chimneys were built by professional stove-makers. Today's technology makes it easy to do it yourself. Of course, at the same time, you need to study the issue and carefully observe the drawing and the manufacturing procedure.

What materials are made from

Chimneys are brick and from pipes; the latter are divided into chimneys made of stainless steel, iron sheet, asbestos-cement, fireclay, glass. Consider their device, advantages and disadvantages, the ability to maintain even traction without jumps.

brick

The most traditional of all. Advantages: durability; powerful thermal inertia: immediately give good traction, and, warming up, adjust to the operation of the furnace; will never give reverse thrust or its pulsations. Disadvantages: unsuitable for boilers, can cause burner flame failure and accident; rectangular section gives an uneven flow of gases, the combustion products settle more strongly; difficult to build and repair; require a foundation due to its heavy weight.

Brick ancient pipe with sleeve

Pipes

This is a much more practical and applicable type of chimney in all cases. Depending on the material of the pipe are different.

Asbestos-cement pipes

Advantages: round; lungs; cheap; easily mounted. Disadvantages: low heat resistance (used for furnaces with low, up to 300 0 flue gas temperature); it is difficult to make a curved structure (rubber couplings - bad decision); porous structure; rapid soot contamination and, as a result, the possibility of its ignition.

Asbestos cement pipes in a stack

Ceramic

They consist of several parts: a refractory ceramic chimney, thermal insulation and a concrete body. Advantages: durable; round and smooth inside, so they do not need to be cleaned; have thermal insulation and tightness, fire resistance and heat resistance; easy to mount; suitable for any boilers, stoves, fireplaces. Disadvantage: Expensive, difficult to repair and difficult to assemble into a curved structure.

Complete ceramic pipes

glass

Advantages: even more chemically neutral and even smoother than ceramic; durable. Disadvantages: expensive (100 times more expensive than steel); the rest are the same.

Fragment and chimney made of Schott glass - Rohrglas

Polymer

Used for sleeve only. Advantages: easy to mount, light, flexible, cheap, durable. Disadvantages: fragile and can not stand high temperature.

Polymer chimneys for fireplaces FuranFlex RVW

Sleeve - an insert inside an old, usually brick, chimney liner in the form of a polymer, flexible metal corrugated or metal pipe for the restoration of the chimney.

Gilzovanie polymer pipes FuranFlex RVW brick chimney

Steel

Steel chimneys are optimal in terms of price, quality, ease of installation.

Varieties of steel structures

There are two main types of chimneys according to their orientation relative to the heater: straight (attached) and side (attached).

Straight chimneys

They are placed above the heater, indoors and pass through the internal ceilings and through the roof. Most often this is the best solution just for ovens. Advantages:

• Acid condensate does not fall out, or falls out slightly, but the ease of passage of gases through a direct chimney is important.
• Soot is deposited less, it is easy to clean on your own, respectively - less fire hazard.
• Works well without a gate draft regulator.
• Only a pipe on the roof is visible on the house, it is aesthetically pleasing.

Flaws:

• Passage through floors and roofs is more difficult than through a wall.
• Large uneven draft, pulsating and even reverse thrust with gusts of wind. Therefore, for modern boilers with an emergency shutdown device, such a chimney is not suitable, even if it is equipped with a complex deflector.

Direct chimney passes through ceilings and roofs

Side tie-down

The axis of such a structure does not coincide with the axis of the heater. Advantages:

• Installation outside the house with a single passage through the wall.
• Ease of construction.
• The presence of a container for collecting acid condensate, which completely excludes its flow into the heater.
• Even with the simplest fungus, it works stably with strong wind, and if a deflector is mounted on it, then the thrust will always be straight and stable.
• It makes it possible to accurately adjust the thrust due to low thermal inertia. This will always provide optimal flow fuel.

Flaws:

• Condensation in frost can turn into ice and break the container. The container may freeze up to the tee, which will block the draft. Hence the need to place a condensate tank inside the house.
• The place through which the chimney goes out is designed as a passage unit. But in winter, the knot absorbs moisture from the air, and the insulation can cake and settle. Then thermal stress will accumulate in the upper part of the node, which can cause a serious crack in the wall.
• The severity of the chimney, unlike the attached one, lies on the passage node; this can also affect the insulation and cause the above phenomena.
• Sufficient complexity of cleaning is caused by the bends of the chimney. Requires a specialist.

Side, or attached, chimney, passes through outer wall at home

Lateral inner

However, side chimneys can be located both inside the house and in the thickness of the wall, then contact with the roof cannot be avoided.

Difference in chimneys - outside and in the wall

No type of chimney can be unequivocally called the best. Each of them is good in its place and depends on the conditions: the type of heater, the construction of the roof and floor beams, the material of the walls and the type of chimney (single-walled or sandwich). The fact that in this case it is not necessary to pass through the roof speaks in favor of the attached side chimney. But it is completely excluded in the case of single-wall pipes due to the cold in winter.

Types of materials

Steel chimneys are made of black steel, low alloy steel and galvanized iron

black steel

This is a simple, no additives for alloying, carbon steel. Advantages:

• The cheapest
• Little soot and easy to clean
• By assembly qualities- exactly like steel
• Does not require a foundation for installation.

Flaws:

• High thermal conductivity leads to the fact that the gases cool rapidly and a lot of condensate forms, which must be removed
• Pipes get very hot, therefore they require special structures in places where they pass through walls and roofs.
• It is impossible to make an external chimney due to lack of thermal insulation
• In terms of durability, it is much inferior to a steel pipe (service life is only about five years), as it is subject to severe corrosion
• Differs in low heat resistance - at high-temperature flue gases quickly burns out.

Black steel chimney parts

Attention! To increase the life of a black steel chimney, you need to make a minimum number of joints and use thick-walled pipes.

low alloy steel

It belongs to ferrous metals, but it contains nickel, chromium and molybdenum additives in an amount equal to that of stainless steel. Advantages and applications: the same as for black steel pipes, but low-alloy steel corrodes more slowly.

Galvanized iron

This is the worst of the three previous options. The zinc layer burns out very quickly, and thin unprotected iron begins to corrode and break down.

Galvanized iron pipe is the worst of all options

Stainless steel

Stainless steel is heat-resistant and resistant to acids - products of combustion. Such chimneys are durable and strong; resistant to temperature changes, corrosion, condensate; inexpensive, easy to assemble due to its modularity, allowing you to build a system of any complexity; easily repaired; smooth inside, so the soot does not settle, and the chimney requires almost no cleaning; have a low heat capacity, so melting any furnace is easy: a steady draft immediately arises. They also come in several types, depending on the alloying of the steel that went to the pipe and the design.

Corrugated steel pipes

These flexible metal tubes are made from steel strip and are only used for sleeving. Their service life is limited due to uneven surface, on which combustion products settle more strongly: soot, acids.

Corrugated metal pipes - used only for lining brick pipes

Single wall stainless steel pipes

Their wall thickness is usually from 0.6 to 1 mm. Advantages - like all non-corrugated metal pipes but these are much more durable than the others. The disadvantages are the same as those of non-corrugated metal pipes.

Details of a single-circuit steel chimney

The disadvantages of single-wall pipes are eliminated by a simple structural improvement: the manufacture of insulated steel pipe, or sandwich chimney. Their advantages:

• Thermal inertia is greater than that of single-wall pipes - flue gases pass quickly, but cool slowly, so little soot and aggressive condensate are formed
• When passing through ceilings and roofs, there is no need for too complex thermal insulation units, since such chimneys heat up less
• Outdoor installation, without penetration through the roof, possible
• Installation is generally pretty easy.

Flaws:

• Sandwich pipes are noticeably more expensive than single pipes.
• Completely unsuitable for brick ovens. A stove with such a chimney will give reverse draft during gusts of wind.

But since people are now concerned about the efficiency of their heating devices and traditional stoves are rare, sandwich chimneys have become widespread.

Stainless Steel Sandwich Pipe

The design of a two-layer chimney and its distinctive features

This is a construction of two steel pipes inserted into each other, different in diameter. The outer one is called the casing. A pyro-resistant insulation is laid between the pipes, usually it is basalt wool (it is laid so that the fibers are oriented along the pipe) 30–35 millimeters thick, capable of withstanding heat of a thousand degrees. Mineral wool doesn't fit at all.

Details of a sandwich chimney

Making a sandwich chimney with your own hands

Comprehensive instructions on all details of the construction of chimneys can be found in SNiP 41-01-2003. Here are the main ones:

• One chimney - for one heater.
• Inside the pipe must be free of burrs and irregularities that provoke turbulence in the gas flow.
• Unacceptable contact of the pipe with engineering communications. Approach is allowed up to one hundred and twenty centimeters, if there are no combustible materials between the pipe and communications.
• So building structures the pipe can approach a maximum of 38 centimeters, and its passage through them must be framed as a fire-fighting assembly 38 centimeters from all sides.
• No sagging of pipe sections.
• Each bend must be performed with the help of several knees so that it is smooth.
• The pipe is rigidly fixed along the wall, the step of strengthening the brackets is no more than 1.2 meters.
• There must be cleaning hatches, at least one.
• The top of the pipe is equipped with a deflector.
• The chimney must rise at least 60 centimeters above a flat pyro-resistant roof and 20 centimeters above all others.

We see that the best option for most of our heaters is a double-layered pipe. Such a chimney can be completely installed with your own hands. You can even make it yourself for this. This requires some preparation and calculations.

The choice of pipe material and the calculation of the main parameters

Calculation of the section and height of the chimney

This is done quite accurately on a schedule called a nomogram. Square and rectangular icons on the chart mean a rectangular or square channel; in this case, the cross section value is multiplied by a factor. But this does not concern us. But in the case of a round channel, the nomogram overestimates the required value, since the installation of the gate is taken into account. We look and fix the dependence of the power of the boiler (furnace), the diameter and height of the chimney.

The nomogram shows the diameter and height of the chimney

There are some rules:

• The height is the vertical from the stove to the top of the chimney, any horizontals and diagonals are not taken into account.
• It is better to avoid narrow high pipes, they often give a pulsation of thrust.
• For low-power devices up to 10 kW, it is better to choose a narrow and low pipe, safe in the sense of the wind, since the gas pressure is weak and will not prevent back blowing.

Selecting the desired design

You must also have basic skills in welding and tinsmithing and present a blueprint. For example, we chose the left chimney in the figure and, knowing the power of the boiler or furnace, calculated its required length from the nomogram. For example, it is equal to 12 meters.

Detailed design of two chimneys - attached and attached

Sample Finished Parts Required

We must remember that we can make sandwich pipes, a deflector, clamps ourselves. But most of the related parts - such as elbows, tees, brackets - will be easier to buy. It will be easier to buy a deflector.

Chimneys are assembled from a mass of parts

Table: materials needed for construction

What is a deflector?

Ordinary pipe fungus does not extinguish sikry, and in strong winds it does not help against the occurrence of reverse thrust, therefore it is unsuitable for modern boilers. A deflector is ideal for all occasions, and the best of the deflectors is the TsAGI deflector, developed by scientists at the Zhukovsky Central Aerohydrodynamic Institute. It can handle winds up to 200 kilometers per hour. It must be fixed with screws so that it does not fly off.

TsAGI deflector assembly

What steel is needed for pipes

Ideally, the inner and outer pipes should be of different steel grades. The internal should have a lower coefficient of thermal expansion and much greater chemical resistance and heat resistance. Mechanical strength not so significant. The outer must be mechanically stronger and as resistant to corrosion as the inner - but for a different reason. If the inner pipe must resist heat and aggressive acids, then the outer one must resist rust. And its thermal conductivity should be maximum so that the pipe does not fatally heat up at the points of passage through the ceilings and roof.

Sheet steel grades for chimneys are indicated by an alphanumeric index, in which the first digit indicates which of the sandwich pipes the steel is intended for: 3 - for a single-wall or inner pipe; 4 - for external.

Table: types of steel and their purpose

Determining the thickness of the steel sheet

The thickness of the steel sheet for the outer pipe should be from 0.6 mm (steel 409) and from 0.8 mm (steel 430); for the inner pipe, the thickness of the corresponding steel (for the inner pipes) depends on the device. For gas boiler- from 0.6 mm, for liquid fuel appliances - from 0.8 mm, for solid fuel appliances - from 1 mm.

Important! The quality of the steel for the inner tube does not influence the determination of the sheet thickness! The required sheet thickness depends only on the characteristics of the device to which the chimney is being built.

Determination of the steel sheet area and the amount of insulation

The sandwich pipes we need with an inner diameter of 200 millimeters and an outer diameter of 250 millimeters will need to be made in the following quantities: 330 millimeters long - 2 pieces, 500 millimeters long - 2 pieces, 1000 millimeters long - 10 pieces. We will make the simplest calculation of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthese pipes based on the diameter. For example, for the inner pipe: 3.14 x 200 = 628; plus a small margin for connecting the sheet to the pipe, let it be 650; multiply by the length of all pipes according to the calculation - 650 x (330 + 330 + 500 + 500 + 1000 x 10) \u003d 7.579 m 2.

Sectional sandwich pipe with clamp and insulation

Typical area steel sheet- 1.250 x 2.500 mm. Respectively. we need to purchase 4 sheets of steel 430 for the casing (average price - 780 rubles per sheet) and 3 sheets of steel 316 (average price - 8800 rubles per sheet) for the inner pipe. Ideally, you can buy a couple of sheets of ordinary structural steel for partitions during insulation.

Insulation corresponding to an inner pipe diameter of 200 millimeters will be 25 millimeters thick. We will need a package of Rokwool Floor Butts 1000x600x25 mm basalt wool (8 pieces per pack) with an approximate cost of about 800 rubles.

Basalt wool RokwoolFlor Butts

In addition, we will need heat-resistant and roofing sealants and fiberglass mesh or fiberglass.

Heat-resistant sealants withstand temperatures up to 1500 degrees

Table: Required materials

Required Tools

1. Welding machine (if you have skills)
2. Metal shears
3. Shoe knife
4. Hammers
5. Kiyanka
6. Pliers

Pipe manufacturing

All the steels mentioned are well processed by hand. But it is impossible to connect a sheet into a pipe with an ordinary fold, as in the manufacture of pipes from galvanized iron.

Incorrect seams of pipes for the chimney

Such a seam is not at all airtight, and acids from flue gases (through the inner pipe) and moisture from the atmosphere (through the casing) seep into the insulation through it. Therefore, it is better to weld the seams (argon-arc welding or electric welding) - if you know how to do it. If not, then all seams must be carefully lubricated with a heat-resistant sealant.

Properly assembled sandwich - pay attention to seam seams

Warming is done in stages according to the figure. Basalt wool is wrapped and separated by partitions. Then everything is wrapped with fiberglass and tied with soft wire to make it easier to put on the outer tube.

Sandwich pipe insulation

Chimney assembly

1. We do not need a foundation, all support brackets will be attached to the wall.
2. We connect the boiler and the pipe using an adapter.
3. The gate is already installed in the first factory pipe section. The condensate collector is connected. In our project, we nevertheless decided to make it inside - so that the condensate does not freeze. We put a tee with inspection hatch for cleaning soot (“pocket”) and a condensate collector. We provide Free access to the pocket.

   The first steps in assembling the chimney

4. We prepare a hole in the wall with a diameter of at least half a meter: we mount a system of stops, install a branch pipe, lay a non-combustible insulation into it, cover it with the same insulation.

   Chimney passage through the wall

5. We pass our sandwich through the pipe. We close the hole on both sides with non-combustible sheets of asbestos. There are ready-made pass-through nodes of different sizes, and it may be easier to use a ready-made one.

   Connecting the chimney pipe manually

6. As the pipe is assembled, its connections are fixed with clamps and coated with sealant, and section by section are fixed on the wall with brackets in increments of no more than 1.2 meters using anchor bolts. Deviations from the vertical should be no more than 3 millimeters per running meter chimney. The distance to the wall is at least 15 centimeters.

   Sandwich chimneys on a brick wall

   You need to clean such a chimney about once every three months, but mechanical way Better not to use at all. In severe cases, you need to call specialists. And your destiny is chemical cleaning. This is a substance in the form of a briquette or powder, which, when burned in the furnace of a boiler or furnace, emits chemical substances, dissolving soot and other deposits in the chimney.

   Powder "Chimney sweep" for cleaning chimneys

   Video: how to fix the chimney to the wall of the house

   The big list of what you have already done for your beloved home now includes a chimney sandwich.

If you decide to make a chimney from a steel pipe with your own hands, then it is important to familiarize yourself with the technology of the work, and also ask what parameters should be used to select the product.

Fire safety

It is worth considering that in the vast majority of cases, an improperly equipped chimney acts as a quality in private homes. If you decide to install such equipment, it must be equipped according to a certain technology. If you neglect the rules, then the removal of exhaust gases from the living quarters will be poor. If the installation of a steel pipe or its intermediate elements was carried out without observing the technology, then smoke may occur in the room, and carbon monoxide may start to enter living space. Most often, under such conditions, reverse thrust is observed.

In order to eliminate such problems, it is necessary to correctly select the diameter of the chimney, as well as install it in accordance with all the rules. Thus, single-wall pipes should not be used if you plan to use them during the continuous use of the stove or fireplace. Such elements are applicable for connecting or repairing a certain part of the chimney. The use of single-wall pipes is still sometimes used for a brick chimney.

If you decide to make a chimney from a steel pipe with your own hands, then it is recommended to use double-walled products made of stainless steel. A heater is used between the pipes, the thickness of which is calculated in such a way as to prevent the formation of condensate.

Why you should use a steel chimney

Ceramic and brick chimneys are most often replaced with steel ones. This is due to the fact that such pipes can be installed at any time of the year, among other things, their weight is negligible, which eliminates the need to equip the foundation. Consumers note that steel pipes with the addition of titanium have high strength. During operation, they are not deformed and are able to endure temperatures up to 600 degrees. If there is a need to use products of higher strength, then those whose walls are 1 mm thick should be preferred.

It is very easy to install a chimney from a steel pipe with your own hands, such products are not deformed from mechanical impact. The surface of the metal after flooding the furnace quickly heats up and begins to transfer heat to the room. However, you must be prepared for the fact that the base of the steel pipe cools down quickly enough.

Features of pipe selection

Before starting work, you have to pick up a chimney. It is important to take into account several important points. Among them are the dimensions of the boiler outlet. should not be smaller than the corresponding diameter, which is characteristic of the branch pipe of the heating equipment. The master will have to put the chimney pipe on the exit, and not vice versa. On sale you can find which varies from 115 to 200 millimeters or more.

To carry out the work, you have to purchase pipes, the length of which is 1 meter. The chimney in the house is made up of the main parts. You will need for work and a tee designed for the revision of pipes. It is also important to buy a tee for collecting condensate, which is used to clean the joints. If the pipe will have turns equal to 45 degrees, then you will need corners that are made of the same material. Take care of the presence of a compensator, it takes on the load from the expansion of the chimney elements during cooling and heating. The system must be brought to the roof, for this an junction node is useful. In order to prevent the ingress of rain, leaves, snow and dust, the system should be equipped with a cap.

Work technology

If you are going to equip a chimney from a steel pipe with your own hands, then initially you need to complete the horizontal part of the system. In the place where the pipe will be connected to the heating equipment, a connection should be made using standard transition elements for this. In this case, the connection should be made using crimp clamps. In the central part of the pipe, a tee for inspection should be mounted using connecting clamps. The chimney in a private house is equipped according to the method, which involves putting on each subsequent segment on the previous one. This rule should not be violated, while the smoke will pass through the room without going outside.

As for the slope of the chimney in a horizontal section, it should be directed downwards from the heating equipment. This is necessary for the condensate to flow in the direction that leads away from the boiler. The two ends of the horizontal section should be positioned from each other at a height of 7 millimeters.

If you decide to arrange a chimney in a private house, then you should not match the outlet of the heating equipment with the through pipe using the horizontal connection method. This may cause a reduction in traction. In the place where the pipe will go out through the wall, it is necessary to equip an insulating layer, which will consist of non-combustible materials. If you have to work with wooden walls, then it is important to wrap the pipe with asbestos, and then strengthen it. If there are clay, concrete or brick walls, the hole should be sealed with construction foam designed for outdoor work. In those areas where the pipe will pass through the wall, it is forbidden to make a connection. If this situation is unavoidable, then the pipe must be cut and mated before it intersects with the wall.

When are installed steel chimneys, it is important to carry out the work correctly at the stage of the elements entering the street. In the place where it is supposed to turn up, a tee-condenser should be mounted. A crimp collar should be used to interface this element with the pipe outlet. Experts recommend using a special bracket to ensure. It is important to insulate the tee, which is true if it is located quite low and serves as a place where burn injuries can occur.

What is important to know the master

Steel chimneys require compliance with fire safety. You can provide openings for cleaning, for this it is permissible to use a removable glass or door. The revision should be at the base, in close proximity to the heating equipment. Branches and joints, as well as other elements, must be connected with clamps, which are treated with sealant, the working temperature of the latter must be equal to 1,000 degrees or more. When installing vertical sections, fastening should be carried out in increments of 2 meters.

As for horizontal sections, their length should not exceed one meter. In those places where the chimney will pass through the roof or walls, as well as the ceiling, it is necessary to make holes, they must have a larger size than the pipe itself. Thus, you must exclude the possibility of contact of materials with roofing or ceilings. To close the formed gaps, square steel plates should be used. Among other things, in the course of these works, a passage glass should be used, which is made of stainless steel and insulation. When stainless steel chimneys are being equipped, the final step is to install the head, which acts as a rain umbrella.

Conclusion

If you decide to make stainless steel chimneys yourself, then you can cut blanks for the chimney. Using a straight pipe, you need to make a cut at an angle of 75 degrees, this will form a connection of an angle that is equal to 150 degrees. To do this, the previously cut parts must be turned over and reconnected diagonally. When installing a stove, chimneys are absolutely necessary. If you cut the pipe at an angle of 60 degrees, you will be able to form a turn equivalent to 120 degrees. Knowing these rules and nuances, you will be able to avoid spending on the purchase of new elements that would make up a complete chimney system.

The convenience, comfort and safety of operation of the gas boiler depends on the correctness of the project and the correct assembly of the chimney, and wood stove baths. In today's article, we will talk about how the chimney installation scheme looks like for different types of heating devices.

General rules for the installation and installation of the chimney:

• Fire safety. It is achieved by laying insulation between the chimney and combustible floor materials, as well as thickening the walls of the chimney. It is also necessary to observe the minimum distance between the wall and the chimney pipe. Profitable solution is the use of sandwich tubes.
• Having good traction. The first rule of draft: the longer the smoke channel, the better the draft. The optimal length is 500–600 cm.
• Tightness of the outer part of the pipe. This will ensure the correct and long operation of the chimney.
• The least resistance for the passage of smoke in the exhaust duct. The walls of the channel should be as even as possible.
• Compliance of the material for the manufacture of the chimney temperature regime and chemical composition exhaust gases. Using different type fuel must be used different chimneys.
• Sufficiently high smoke temperature when it enters the exhaust duct. If this rule is not observed, condensation will form on the walls of the chimney, which contributes to the destruction of the inner surface of the chimney. The fewer vertical partitions in the smoke exhaust system, the better. This is especially true for large ovens.

A feature of firewood, as a fuel, is the great heat from them. It follows from this that the temperature of the smoke in a wood-burning sauna stove or fireplace will be high, but uneven. Not every chimney will be able to withstand such a long exposure.

Most often, heat-resistant bricks are used to install a chimney for heating devices such as a sauna stove or a wood-burning fireplace (see).

Making a brick chimney

The correct scheme of the brick chimney in in general terms might look like this:

• Most often, a pipe is used for a wood-burning sauna stove. That is, it continues the exhaust hole of the stove or fireplace itself. You should know that the laying of the inner part (indoors) is best done on a clay-sand mortar.

You should know: all masonry work on the outside of the building must be done with the addition of cement and water to the mortar!

Should know! In order for water not to stagnate on the ledge of the otter, it is necessary to make angular slopes from cement plaster from all four sides.

• After the external expansion, the main riser is made, as in attic. For beauty, a brick head is usually laid out.
• The brick chimney is completed with a cap that protects against exposure environment: wind, precipitation. The shape of the protective umbrella can be different. Best Option is a deflector.

A graphic diagram of a brick stove chimney for a house or a bath is shown in the figure below.

It is the double-bell smoke exhaust system that is optimal for use in large stoves and fireplaces with considerable wood-burning hearths. It provides more or less uniform heating in the room, and also has a minimum of obstacles for the movement of smoke to the exhaust duct.

Features of a double chimney for a fireplace

Another chimney option is a double chimney. Outside, it is made of brick, and inside it is a metal cylindrical part. If the pipe is made of stainless steel, then this version of the chimney is suitable for installing a gas boiler.

Combined double smoke outlets for fireplaces have a number of advantages over brick ones:

1. The channel for the movement of smoke has a smooth surface, without obstacles.
2. is increasing Fire safety buildings in general.
3. The laying of the outer part can be done without fluffing.
4. Increases the service life of the chimney.
5. Improving the tightness of the entire chimney.

The figure below shows a chimney diagram for a fireplace or gas boiler with a combined structure.

A feature of this design is that it is usually made in the indigenous version, and not mounted. That is, the chimney itself is located directly next to the heating unit.

• When installing a combined chimney, a foundation is first made, which has a height of at least 30 cm
• The laying of a brick shaft is done in accordance with the same conditions as when installing a conventional brick chimney.
• Due design features double channel, the outer shaft is laid vertically without the obligatory thickening of the walls in the place of the ceiling.
• Below, immediately after the foundation, a niche is made with a cleaning door.
• A stainless steel metal pipe is assembled from top to bottom in such a way that each subsequent elbow is inserted inside the previous one.
• All joints of the internal part of the combined chimney are treated with a sealant with a heat resistance declared by the manufacturer of at least 1000°C.

Proper installation of chimneys for gas equipment

Features of the waste generated during the operation of a gas boiler imply certain design requirements for chimneys for of this type heating appliances (see).

We assemble a chimney for a natural draft boiler

General scheme installation of a chimney for a floor-standing gas boiler with a hole for exhausting combustion products at the back of the body is as follows:

• Since acid-containing substances appear in the smoke generated during the operation of a gas boiler, the chimney must be made of acid-resistant stainless steel. Such systems are sold in the store and the process of assembling them is not particularly complicated. The best option is a two-channel chimney of the "sandwich" type.
• The main part of the pipe is on the street. To add rigidity, it is attached in one or two places to the wall brackets.

You should know: since the discharged combustion products in gas equipment temperatures are low, condensation may form. To protect the boiler from water ingress when using a single-channel chimney, a condensate collector should be installed in the system, as well as insulating that part of the pipe that runs outside. More rational solution- use of a sandwich type chimney.

The sandwich pipe consists of three layers:

• The inner layer of a sandwich pipe experiences serious chemical and thermal loads; stainless heat-resistant steel is used for its manufacture;
• The middle layer of a sandwich pipe is a heater (basalt fiber);
• The outer contour of the sandwich pipe is galvanized or stainless steel.

The cross section of the sandwich pipe is oval, as this shape is optimal for installing a chimney for a gas boiler.

Should know! All contacts with combustible substances in walls and ceilings must be insulated with non-combustible materials.

• When exiting to the roof, the pipe has a protruding part (skirt), which performs the same function as an otter in a brick pipe.
• For better protection from the penetration of precipitation under the roof, the pipe is inserted into the hole of a kind of apron, which has the shape of a square.

Should know! Before buying a roofing chimney assembly (apron), be sure to measure the slope of the roof surface! This will allow you to guide the chimney pipe as accurately as possible through the hole in the assembly and ensure the highest tightness of this design.

• The chimney is completed by a conical or fungal cap.

We mount the hood for a wall-mounted boiler

There is a type of gas boilers with forced exhaust of combustion products. Inside the exhaust chamber of such devices is a “duichik” - a fan.

The chimneys of such boilers are different minimum dimensions in length and the least complexity in installation. They consist of two channels, isolated stone wool High Quality. The inner channel serves as an exhaust, and the outer channel serves as an air intake from the street.

The chimney diagram for a boiler with a coaxial outlet is simple, installation is carried out as follows:

• The boiler is fitted with an outlet with an angle of 87 degrees.
• Next, there is a hole in the wall for the pipe. Then the boiler is removed from the anchors and hollowed out according to the markup (sawed out) through hole including gasket non-combustible insulation in 30–100 mm along the entire circumference of the pipe.
• Now we push the pipe into the hole and insert it into the outlet, which is already attached with special screws to the boiler body.

Should know! For sealing all connections in the kit coaxial chimney includes a special sealant and a wide clamp.

You can mount a chimney with your own hands if you know the basics of design and installation rules. This is discussed in this article.

What should be the chimney?

To remove flue gases from an ordinary potbelly stove, a chimney of a sufficiently high complexity is required. In order for it to function properly, it is necessary to correctly calculate the channel for the output of combustion products. Fuel consumption, heating energy losses, fire safety and indoor air pollution depend on how successfully they are removed from the boiler or furnace. Do-it-yourself chimney installation must be carried out subject to the following conditions.

1. Of great importance are the characteristics of the channel that removes flue gases, especially the material of manufacture. The most reliable are pipes made of steel, resistant to corrosion and acid. If the stove or fireplace is fired with wood, ceramic bricks can be used.
2. The minimum resistance to the outgoing combustion products is provided by the round cross-section of the pipe. Horizontal and inclined sections should not exceed a length of 1 m, otherwise the draft is significantly reduced, and soot accumulates in these places.
3. Joints must be sealed, and at the connection point heating device a reducing adapter is installed to the pipe if their diameters differ.
4. Pipes are connected with extensions down. In this case, resin and condensate will not fall on their outer surfaces. The cross section of a pipe connected to heater, should not be less than that of its exhaust pipe.
5. A brick chimney should be laid out tight and with minimal roughness inside.
6. To get rid of condensation and accelerate warm-up outer pipe be sure to insulate it.
7. The chimney and combustible materials (ceilings, roof parts) must be isolated from each other to prevent fire. The distance between them is 130 mm, and for non-insulated ceramic pipe- 250 mm.
8. The chimney is securely attached from the outside and protected from the atmosphere by a deflector or weather vane. For gas heating this should not be done. If the roof is made of combustible materials, a mesh spark arrestor is installed on top of the chimney.

Mounting errors

How to make a chimney with your own hands so that it does not have to be fixed or redone? The most common errors are:

1. Usage building materials intended for other purposes. Asbestos-cement pipes at temperatures above 300 degrees Celsius are destroyed. The brick does not withstand the acid contained in the products of gas combustion.
2. Incorrect choice of pipe height and diameter reduces efficiency and worsens traction.
3. The base of the chimney collapses from the increased load.
4. Poor thermal insulation of the outer pipe leads to the formation of condensate.

Dimensions

The chimney should rise above the ridge by 0.5 m when it is located at a distance of up to 1.5 m. When located from 1.5 to 3 m, their heights are at least the same. At a greater distance, the height of the pipe should not protrude beyond the line mentally drawn from the top of the house at an angle of 10 degrees.

When building a chimney with your own hands, you should take into account buildings that are close to the house of greater height. The pipe is placed above their roof.

The internal diameter of the chimney is selected according to special tables. For example, if the unit has a power of 5.2 - 7.2 kW, the size brick channel, which removes smoke, is 140x270 mm. For round pipe area is taken as a rectangle. Its excess leads to a weakening of thrust, and a smaller cross section impairs the removal of combustion products. If you have to install a more powerful heating unit, the chimney often needs to be redone again.

What type of chimney to choose?

In order for the chimney to successfully perform its functions, it must meet the following requirements:

• resistance to high temperature, the action of condensate and the chemicals contained in it;
• creating good traction;
• accounting for the type of heating equipment;
• even and smooth inner walls with rounded corners.

For gas and oil fired boilers, condensate and corrosion resistant chimneys, such as ceramic or stainless steel, are well suited. Solid fuel units are supplied with brick chimneys, but they have big weight. They require a solid foundation.

Do-it-yourself chimney in the bath

When a do-it-yourself bath is being built, the chimney in it is one of the main parts. Comfort and safety largely depend on it.

Not all pipes are straight. Models are used to create turns, collect condensate, with doors for cleaning soot and others. The chimney can pass inside and outside the house. For its fastening after 2 m, spurs or tees are provided, which are fixed on the wall. Through the ceilings, the chimney is led out using a box with a hole. It is isolated with foil basalt mats. The conclusion to the roof is made using a link called cutting. Usually this is a through pipe or a box with a hole. Cutting is protection against precipitation and fire wooden parts roofs.

Measures to reduce soot formation in a sandwich pipe are as follows:

• do not use raw firewood and from conifers;
• do not burn garbage;
• periodically use aspen firewood to burn out soot.

Do-it-yourself chimney for a boiler

Chimneys differ in installation methods. They are horizontal, external attached and internal vertical.

The horizontal structure is brought out through the wall. Forced traction is required here.

With an external attached chimney, the pipe first exits horizontally through the wall to the outside, and then rises vertically along the wall. Normal traction is provided at a height of more than 5 m.

The internal flue from a copper is brought up through all overlappings on a roof. It must be done with thermal insulation. At brickwork the chimney can be mounted inside it by passing the pipe through a channel, in the lower part of which a cleaning hatch is equipped.

above the boiler or metal oven a vertical section is made from a pipe with a height of at least 1 m, after which a bend to the side can be created.

When making a chimney with your own hands, you need to consult with specialists so as not to make mistakes.

Service

With a thickness of deposits inside the pipe of more than 2 mm, it is time to clean it with a stiff brush or scraper. To do this, small openings with doors or bricks are made in the chimney. Cleaning is done from top to bottom, closing the firebox so that soot does not fly into the room.

On the walls of the chimney, agents are applied that, during combustion, contribute to the separation of soot from the surface. Can be applied folk remedies. The steam generated by burning potato skins in the firebox effectively acts against soot deposits. Aspen firewood during combustion creates a high temperature, from which the deposits are burned out. But this can destroy the asbestos-cement pipe or start flying out of it a large number of sparks that create a fire hazard.

Terms safe operation chimneys:

• flammable substances must not be used to kindle the units;
• for solid fuel boilers, firewood should not protrude out of the furnace;
• chimneys are not used for drying things;
• chlorine-containing substances for cleaning channels can not be used.

Conclusion

Installing the chimney with your own hands must be carried out taking into account all the installation conditions set out in the article. Otherwise, its effectiveness will be low. The do-it-yourself chimney is mounted taking into account the features of the heating equipment, and not the user's preferences.