Breeding decorative rabbits for beginners. Reproduction of decorative rabbits

The ancestor of the domestic ornamental rabbit is the wild rabbit, although the relationship is often mistakenly attributed to hares. They have been kept as pets since the Stone Age. They are bred for meat and fur. Over time and in accordance with the needs, breeds appeared - meat, meat-woolen and woolen. Later, decorative rabbits began to appear. different breeds. They are easy to keep at home, unpretentious, and give a lot of positive emotions.

The ancestor of decorative breeds was a wild rabbit, not a hare

Decorative rabbits were bred in England in late XIX century, after their selection began to be engaged in Holland, Germany. In connection with the outbreak of World War II, work on their breeding was forced to stop.

After the end of the Great Patriotic War, breeding of dwarf rabbits resumed, the number of animals restored and increased.

Types of decorative rabbits

Now in the world there are about 200 breeds of rabbits. Rabbits are classified by weight, their purpose - meat breed, woolen meat, decorative. breeds decorative rabbits a lot has been bred, and these fluffy beauties have managed to win the hearts of many animal lovers.

Rabbit breed Dwarf ram

The most popular breeds of rabbits:

  • Dwarf rabbit ram. In babies, the ears are erect for the first months, like those of ordinary rabbits, and then they go down, giving the face a very funny look and similarity to lambs. The most famous are the Dutch Fold, one of the oldest breeds of dwarf rabbits. Their weight is up to 1.5 kilograms. Unpretentious, hardy, calm disposition. Color - front of the body white color and ears, cheeks and rear end the other - black, brown, blue, etc. Fertile.
  • Satin dwarf rabbits. The coat is of medium length, finer than other breeds, giving it a satin sheen. The problem with this breed is extremely fast growth teeth throughout life. Therefore, they are recommended coarse, special food for grinding teeth.
  • Rex dwarf rabbits. The coat is short. The outer hair above the down rises only a centimeter by 2.
  • Angora, fox. These dwarf rabbits have long hair and tassels at the tips of their ears. Long-haired rabbits, in order to avoid the formation of tangles, need to be combed often.
  • Hermelins or ermine dwarf rabbits. They have white fluffy fur, blue and sometimes red eyes.
  • Lion dwarf rabbit. The coat is very long and fluffy. They need frequent trimming of the muzzle and ears, otherwise the hair hangs over the eyes and the rabbits cannot see. There are two types of them - the angora rabbit lion and the decorative rabbit lion's head, its face is similar in appearance to the head of a lion. Owners of lush wool, which does not need to be combed out, it does not roll and does not get tangled.

Hermelin rabbit

Features of keeping dwarf rabbits

The mass of dwarf rabbits varies from 1 to 3 kilograms. They are very sensitive to feed, they must be of high quality, to drafts, a number of breeds are easily susceptible to infectious diseases.

It should be noted that the behavior, character of animals also depends on their gender. Contrary to popular belief, females, especially during gestation and lactation, can be aggressive.

At home, it is very important to follow all the rules for keeping decorative rabbits so that your pets will delight you with their playfulness and affection. Pets should be kept in cages at least 80 centimeters in size, but preferably 1 meter, the bottom of which is covered with pressed sawdust, hay, the layer should be from three to five centimeters. The cage should be placed in a place protected from cold, drafts. Since decorative rabbits are very mobile, it is better to purchase a heavy feeder that is resistant to turning over, you can hang it, and an automatic drinker is better.

It is good to install a house in a cage, there a pet will feel protected.

Rabbits need a strong cage

The diet is specialized for breeds of feed, which can be bought at pet stores. In summer, you can add herbs, cereals, sprigs of aspen, maple, willow. Not earlier than from 4 months, oats and wheat are added. In winter - hay, vegetables, fruits. Be sure to have constant clean water. Juicy food is given to adult pets. Little pussies get from 1-1.5 months, it is better to start subcorking babies with juicy food with carrots and apples. And cabbage - not earlier than 4 months. There must be twigs in the cage, a mineral stone - pets have nowhere to grind their teeth.

The filler should be changed twice a week. Wash with a special shampoo for rabbits, choosing it specifically for the breed that lives with you. Often it is not recommended to wash, which cannot be said about white rabbits, they quickly get dirty, preferably dry with a hairdryer, but not with a very hot air stream. Longhairs are brushed frequently. A dwarf rabbit can and should be let out of the cage, but keep an eye on the pet, no matter what it gets hurt, do not pick up anything harmful from the floor. It is impossible to allow accuracy in the cage, carefully remove the remnants of uneaten food, regularly disinfect and rinse the cage, feeders, drinkers.

Vision in rabbits is worse than the sense of smell. Sometimes, when changing food, they sniff at it for a long time, they may not immediately accept it.

Important! Rabbits are not to be taken by the ears! At first, accustom him to yourself gradually. Your pets are very susceptible to stress. They can be walked, but preferably on a harness, because these little domestic naughty are very active and can run away.

Rabbits should not be grabbed by the ears, they are very easily damaged

How to determine the sex of a rabbit?

To tell the truth, without special skills, experience, it is almost impossible to determine the exact gender.

When buying sexually mature individuals, it is possible to determine the sex by primary sexual characteristics. With small rabbits up to one month old, this is more difficult. Only a specialist can determine the gender during this period. Rabbit breeders can determine the sex, starting from the age of 2-2.5 months. It is during this period that they are weaned from their mother. It is better to buy from an experienced breeder, preferably on the basis of recommendations or, according to reviews on the website on the Internet.

When buying, immediately ask the breeder to determine the gender of the baby you like.

How to independently determine the sex of a rabbit?

Sex determination is mandatory if you are planning to breed ornamental rabbits. To determine the sex, place the pet on a hard surface, the lighting should be sufficient. With one hand, hold him by the withers, with the other gently bring him to a reclining position on his back.

For breeding rabbits, it is important to be able to determine their gender.

Holding with one hand, with the other gently slightly stretching the skin near the anus and the location of the genital organs, lightly press. In the female you will see the genital slit, it is located in the immediate vicinity of the anus, in males - a small rounded opening, located away from the anus.

Be careful, the animal is unlikely to like your actions, and the animal can injure you with its claws, but only in this way can you reliably find out the gender of your pet.

Breeding rabbits

No wonder they say - "Breed like rabbits." Breeding decorative rabbits is not a difficult process if you create the conditions for this. Dwarf rabbits differ from ordinary ones in earlier puberty and at 6 months they are already sexually mature and capable of reproduction. If the female begins to behave restlessly, builds a nest, then you can plant her with the male. In the event that she is not yet ready for the breeding process, this can be determined by her behavior, she will lead aggressively towards the male, run away, hide. The case of decorative rabbits takes place in several stages. If a mating has occurred, then the female should not be removed immediately, it is necessary that another 1-2 matings pass.

During the bearing of offspring, the rabbit needs to be well fed.

After two weeks, you can check the pregnancy. Gently checking the belly. Or visually, because the way she behaves - does not let the male in, eats with increased appetite. If pregnancy has occurred, then the female must be transplanted. Complications during childbirth are extremely rare. During pregnancy and lactation, strengthen the female's diet. The pet store sells food for pregnant females. Be sure to add vegetables, apples, sprouted oats to the feed. At good conditions content, proper food, the kids will be healthy, strong.

After giving birth, the rabbit is immediately ready for breeding and you can fertilize her again on the first day.

Raising offspring

Pregnancy lasts a month, the female gives birth to 4 to 8 small cubs. Before giving birth, she equips a nest, forming it from hay, warming it with her own fluff, which she plucks from her stomach and neck. Childbirth usually takes place without complications. Dwarf rabbits good moms. But, in the period up to two months, it is better not to pick up rabbits. Basically visual control - activity, filled tummies. If there are folds on the tummy, there may not be enough milk.

You can also check this by pressing on the rabbit's nipple. If there is enough milk, then it appears in large drops or splashes in a trickle.

In this case, it is necessary to strengthen the feeding of the rabbit, consult with a specialist.

Female pygmy ram with ringed

In rabbits best milk, a large number of it appears after the fourth birth. If the rabbit is not active or overfed, then problems with milk may arise. In addition, an obese rabbit is not always capable of childbearing. In this case, grain feeds are reduced and more juicy ones are given to her.

Fluff appears in rabbits in the first week, eyes open on the 10th day. From the 3rd week they eat on their own, but they do not stop drinking mother's milk. Milk teeth change on the 18th day, and during the first month they are completely replaced by permanent ones.

Your pets have long and sharp claws that grow very quickly and should be trimmed periodically. Otherwise, they may experience a number of diseases of the paws, joint pain, pododermatitis, pain in the paws when stepped on, and others.

The first signs that it's time to cut the claws - clings to the carpet, upholstery with its paws.

Becomes passive, eats poorly. Shearing begins at two months of age.

Rabbits need to trim their nails

When you pick up a rabbit, ask the breeder to trim the claws of the baby and familiarize yourself with this procedure.

Small rabbits can cut their claws with ordinary manicure scissors, and for adult a special tool is required.

Side cutters with a limiter will do. You can contact the veterinarian.

Dwarf rabbits are amazingly beautiful animals. Not all breeds of dwarf rabbits are quickly tamed to humans, but with your love and kindness, you can overcome the distrust of your pet and then get a true friend who will live with you for six or even twelve years.

In breeding decorative rabbits, there are many pleasant, exciting and incredibly interesting moments. Probably the most interesting such period is the time between mating and the birth of little rabbits. So exciting and disturbing - to wait and wonder if everything will pass without complications? Will the rabbit be healthy and how many babies will there be? Of course, first of all, it is necessary to determine the pregnancy in a rabbit. How to do it?

The easiest way is by the behavior of the rabbit with the male. If a week or two after the alleged mating, you try to plant a male to her, then, most likely, it will immediately become clear whether the female was covered. A pregnant lady will be clearly hostile towards the male, she will chase him around the cage, growl and fight back.

However, this test does not give a 100% guarantee, there are rabbits who are not averse to mating, even if mating has already taken place. So it's best to use another method.

The fact is that already two weeks after fertilization, pregnancy can be determined manually: the rabbits are felt like small balls under the fingers. Palpation should be done very carefully and gently, in no case pressing the rabbit on the stomach! Unborn rabbits are too fragile, they are very easy to maim.

If you do not have the appropriate skill, it is better to entrust the matter to a specialist: the risk of harming the kids is too great.

Another indirect sign of pregnancy is the sharply increased appetite of the intended mother. The rabbit has to eat a lot because she has four to eight babies developing inside her. Usually the appetite is especially increased by later dates 15-14 days before delivery.

However, even this method is not accurate to eat rabbits who have enough of their usual diet, and some even, on the contrary, begin to throw food out of the feeders.

In any case, an experienced rabbit breeder will not be mistaken: by a combination of signs, it is quite possible to determine pregnancy almost unmistakably, and even in the later stages it is visible to the naked eye.

After conception has occurred, the male is usually removed. The fact is that the rabbit can become pregnant again, before she has time to feed the first portion of the offspring, and this is harmful both for her and for the babies: the children do not receive proper nutrition, and the mother is weakened.

However, the daddy should not be pushed too far away, just enough so that the rabbits cannot mate. It is necessary that they can see each other: separation can lead to significant stress.

Dwarf rabbits: keeping, breeding, training and taming

Unlike ordinary rabbits, dwarfs are very small. If our adult rabbits weigh 5-8 kg, then dwarfs most often weigh 1-1.5 kg. Not only in babies, but also in adult dwarfs, the muzzles are blunt and short, the eyes are large, and the ears are much shorter than those of ordinary ones. The animals seem to retain their childish appearance for the rest of their lives. These charming little animals, quickly winning the sympathy of children in the countries Western Europe and in America, today got to us.

There are quite a few breeds of dwarf rabbits. We can say that each type of large rabbit has its own miniature version. Germelins - dwarf ermine rabbits, dwarf rex with short soft hair, dwarfs of a wide variety of colors (chintz, white, black, black and tan (black with red or light tan), chinchillas, tortoiseshells. Long-haired dwarf rabbits with long fluffy hair are known; rabbits with hanging ears, the so-called rams.

In our country, dwarf rabbits appeared relatively recently, only 5-6 years ago. All of them were brought to us from Poland, the Czech Republic, Germany or Austria. International exhibitions are regularly held abroad, where examination of dwarf and ordinary rabbits is carried out. One such exhibition took place in Brno (Czech Republic) in 1998. From this exhibition, several pairs of thoroughbred dwarfs with pedigrees (white hermelins with blue eyes, black and tan dwarfs).

Breeding decorative rabbits

On the breeding decorative rabbits you can earn good money.

The best option for this business would be for those people who love animals and live in a private home.

Just breed meat rabbits less profitable business.

Decorative rabbits are bred not for meat or skins, but as pets. Children especially love them. Dwarf rabbits differ from ordinary ones in their light weight - from 1 to 1.5 kg. They have blunt short muzzles, large eyes and small ears. Breeds of decorative rabbits quite diverse: dwarf ermine rabbits, rex, satin, angora, black and tan rabbits, with hanging ears (sheep), etc. All breeds are divided into short-haired, normal-haired and long-haired.

Caring for decorative rabbits pretty simple. In the summer, for their feeding, you can use dandelions, plantain, clover. Sprigs of willow, spruce, etc. Oats, wheat and even ordinary bread will also work. In winter, the rabbit needs to be fed with vegetables (carrots, cabbage, potatoes) and hay, and babies up to 2.5 months. - milk.

On sale there are special feeds and mineral supplements. Rabbits should always have water in their feeder.

Cages for decorative rabbits must be spacious #8211; from 70 cm. A special bedding of pressed sawdust is laid on the bottom, and 3-5 cm of hay is laid on top. A feeder is placed or hung in a cage. It is recommended to clean the cage 2 times a week. At good care rabbits live 8-12 years.

So, in order to start such a business, without having significant funds, you need:

make an aviary (cages) for rabbits in the yard or barn

buy at least two females and one male.

For these purposes, you can take both very small rabbits and already adults. If you took small ones, then you have to wait a bit until they grow up.

Rabbits begin to breed as early as half a year. Offspring is possible every three to four months. The female brings about five rabbits at a time, which after a month can already be carried to the pet store and handed over for about 10-15 dollars.

Average prices:

Dwarf rabbit - $30

Rabbit pygmy lop-eared - $30

Rabbit dwarf fluffy - $45

Super dwarf rabbit - $45

Prices can vary considerably depending on the breed, color and advertising methods used. Breeding decorative rabbits it is quite worthy to become your business.

And a little more about breeding rabbits

Sooner or later, happy owners of decorative and dwarf rabbits think about breeding decorative rabbits. And usually this desire arises under the following circumstances:

The decorative rabbit has entered puberty and actively shows that instead of the owner's hand or leg, he wants to see another rabbit

You just want to mess around with the rabbits.

Anyway breeding rabbits at home requires a serious and conscious approach, because the purity of the breed and the health of future offspring depend on you.

Reproduction of dwarf rabbits provides several features:

  1. Rabbits can only be knitted between the ages of 7 months and up to 3 years. Not earlier, not later.
  2. For the first time, the female must be given for mating at the age of up to a year, that is, you must have time to find a mate for her in 5 months.
  3. Females (most often dwarf ones) may not mate well, and even be sterile. Blame for inbreeding, obtaining offspring from individuals with family ties. That is, for the purity of the breed, the female pays with difficulties with the establishment of rabbits. So the reproduction of dwarf rabbits may not work at all.
  4. The most convenient time for mating is the morning, and the place is the territory of the male. If you bring a male to visit a rabbit, he will go to explore the area and forget about his beloved.
  5. Breeding rabbits at home imposes on you the obligation to correctly choose a pair for a pet. Ask experts how to select a rabbit for mating, do not mate a pet with the first rabbit that comes across.
  6. Remember, rabbits can be very problematic creatures. If your friends suddenly change their minds about getting a rabbit, you will have to urgently look for owners for the kids, or leave the rabbits for yourself.

Do not count on the fact that the breeding of decorative rabbits is just entertainment. If you are not sure about the future fate of future rabbits, it is better not to breed them. In the end, a rabbit that has never been knitted will remain calm.

Home breeding of rabbits, not hard, but profitable

AT recent times decorative and dwarf rabbits are increasingly enjoying good popularity among pets. Their main differences from ordinary rabbits are their smaller size and weight, small ears, up to 7 cm long, and short head. In Europe breeding rabbits at home is situated on high level. There exists a large number of nurseries, hold regular exhibitions of rabbits, breed standards have been adopted, among which the most popular angora, Dutch, rex, colored angora, butterfly can be noted.

In addition, dwarf rabbits are bred not for meat or skins, but as pets. And for these beautiful pets, people are willing to pay pretty good money.

You can also breed dwarf rabbits in an apartment, for this you will need cages in which you will keep them. They eat almost the same as their larger counterparts. Their diet is hay, marking, dried grass, tree branches, dry hercules, boiled potatoes and apples.

Domestic breeding of rabbits will not create big problems with their content. These pets are able to find a common language with absolutely any living creature, both with the owner and with the parrot.

Their maintenance and veterinary care costs are very low compared to any other pet. There is no need for regular walking of rabbits.

The size of the cage for dwarf rabbits should be at least 70 cm. The bottom of the cage must be covered with a special bedding, which consists of pressed sawdust, and all this should be covered with a layer of hay from 3 to 5 cm. Also, a feeder will need to be placed in the cage. Rabbits will quickly adapt to using a cat litter box. Their dwelling must be cleaned 2 times a week. Such care will ensure the life of decorative rabbits for 8 to 12 years.

A female rabbit can bring up to 10 rabbits at a time. A month later, they can already be safely carried for sale to a pet store, the price for each rabbit will be from $ 10 to $ 15. They can also be sold through advertisements in newspapers, on specialized Internet sites, etc. in this case, the price of rabbits will be an order of magnitude higher.

Prices for decorative rabbits are different and depend on the breed, color, pedigree, and of course advertising. For example, a dwarf rabbit costs $30, a dwarf lop-eared 35$, and a super-dwarf and dwarf fluffy 40$45.

Your income will depend on the number of baby rabbits born. An increase in the number of cells and females - an increase in fertility. Everything is very simple.

Sources: krolyk.ru, forums.zooclub.ru, bank-of-ideas.ru, kroliki-dv.ru, berichnow.ru

Rabbit breeding has always been considered a profitable business area. From these pets you can get meat and excellent fluffy skins, and dwarf rabbits are also kept as pets. Breeding decorative rabbits does not require special efforts, so any responsible and attentive person who is not allergic to fur can do such a business.

Positive aspects and disadvantages of rabbit breeding

Benefits of this business include:

  • Animals can be bred in any place convenient for you;
  • Cell materials are inexpensive;
  • These pets are omnivores and quite prolific;
  • Rabbits grow fast;
  • Cheap feed.

Disadvantages:

  • It is difficult to find clients for fur and meat;
  • For each head of the young, you need to make a separate cage;
  • Animals often get sick.

Registration

Rabbit breeding requires registration of documents of an individual entrepreneur. Taxes in this area of ​​activity are low. In addition, such a business does not require serious accounting calculations.

Where to begin?

First of all, analyze the needs of the market in your area. Things will go well if you can find regular wholesale buyers. Ask if there is a demand for rabbit meat and fur, and only then get down to business.

Where to breed rabbits?

It is advisable to breed rabbits in rural areas. In such conditions, animals easily adapt. If you don't have your own country house, can be rented small plot and put there cages made by yourself or bought on the market. Rabbit breeding can be done even in an apartment, as well as. To do this, you can choose the most best breeds decorative rabbits, breed them and sell them to a pet store or to collectors.

Breeding

Dwarf individuals are different from ordinary rabbits small size and weight. In addition, they have short ears and a head. In European countries, breeding and keeping decorative rabbits is not much different from traditional rabbit breeding. The owners of rabbit nurseries constantly hold exhibitions. Dwarf breeds are pets, so they are not raised for skins or meat.

Such beauties for sale can be bred in any room - in a house or apartment. To do this, you will need a spacious cage. Pets can be released for a free walk around the premises.

The owners of rabbit nurseries constantly hold exhibitions.

The most famous breeds:

  • Butterfly;
  • Rex;
  • Dutch;
  • Angora.

If you are interested in this type of business, decorative rabbit breeds with photographs can be viewed on the Internet.

Business Benefits

Domestic rabbits are small in size, but they are much more expensive than their counterparts. Accordingly, maintenance costs are less, and incomes will be high. Market value one dwarf pet 1000 rubles, and you can sell it at the age of one month. Adults are much more expensive.

What do you need to breed decorative rabbits?

To implement this business, you need to purchase:
  • Cages for pets;
  • Several families for brood;
  • Feed and feed additives, as well as vitamins;
  • Literature from which you can get useful information.

After the birth of the rabbits, it is necessary to transfer the male to another cage. She must stand next to the female so that the couple can see each other, otherwise they may be stressed.

Stern

As mentioned above, keeping decorative rabbits at home is practically no different from breeding rabbits for meat. They are fed in the same way as their agricultural counterparts.

They use:

  • Hay;
  • Branches of fruit trees;
  • Potato;
  • Hercules;
  • Apples.

The cage must have fresh water. Without it, animals will not have proper digestion. It is advisable to use an autodrinker for this. If you know what to feed a decorative rabbit, do not forget that dry food is used to replenish the diet with vitamins and minerals.

The daily diet of animals consists of 20% of withered grass and 50% of compound feed. The remaining 20% ​​are vegetables and fruits.

Make sure that poisonous grass does not get into the feed.

To avoid the question of how many times to feed a decorative rabbit, remember that they have a three-time food ration.

Care

The rabbit farm does not require special care. They rarely get sick (they ate to carry out timely vaccination) and are economical in maintenance. As a toilet for animals, you can use a regular cat tray. It won't be hard to get them used to it.

The animal cage should be spacious. At the bottom you need to lay pressed sawdust. At one time, the rabbit brings about 9 rabbits. Small rabbits sell well in pet stores. You can get 10-15 dollars for them. In addition, young animals can be sold by an ad on the Internet or in a newspaper. The price of one pet largely depends on its color and breed. The most expensive lop-eared and dwarf ones cost 850 rubles. An elite super-dwarf rabbit can be sold for 1.2 thousand rubles.

Mixing breeds should not be allowed. Also make sure that mothers do not interbreed with children, but brothers with sisters. It is desirable that the crossed rabbits be of the same breed.

You don’t have to spend a lot of time on keeping decorative rabbits at home.

In order for them to be strong and healthy, you need to create optimal conditions:

  • The cage for the rabbit should be spacious so that he can move freely around it;
  • There should be no sharp corners or objects in the cage;
  • Drinkers and feeders should be firmly fixed;
  • Rabbits do not like extreme cold or heat;
  • Do not place the cage in a draft;
  • For each animal older than 2 months, you will need a separate cage.

Disease prevention

To avoid various diseases and epidemics, you must:

  • Vaccinate animals;
  • Perform cell disinfection. This should be done once every two weeks;
  • Other rodents should not live in the rabbitry;
  • Any scratches or wounds on the body of the animal should be immediately treated with ointment;
  • If the rabbit is sick, you need to protect it from other individuals and thoroughly disinfect the cage;
  • Individuals that have been in contact with a sick animal should be quarantined for 2 weeks.

If you do not know how to feed a rabbit at home, look for such information on the Internet.

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Start-up capital

One decorative rabbit costs up to 9 thousand rubles. There are also more expensive breeds. Compound feed for animals will cost you 15-20 thousand per ton. If you buy ready-made cages, you will have to spend about 9 thousand rubles on them.

Rabbits become pregnant at the age of about 5 months. They bear offspring for 2 months. The offspring from one individual is 6-12 goals. If you sell babies at the age of one month, breeding dwarf rabbits will bring you a profit of 270 thousand rubles. With proper planning, your mini-farm should pay off in just a year.

Summing up

Those people who have been breeding rabbits at home can confirm that this does not require any special knowledge or skills. Useful information how to care for a decorative rabbit can be obtained from special literature. If you provide an animal quality care, it will live for about 10 years. Rabbits don't need to be walked. The costs of their veterinary care and maintenance are much lower than for other animals.

These guides can be found on the Internet. There is no doubt that breeding decorative rabbits at home is profitable business. You will receive the first income in about a year, after you start doing this type of activity.

» Rabbits

Any rabbit that is kept as a family member can be considered decorative, regardless of breed and size. However, most often by "decorative" they mean dwarf animals, bred specifically to become pets. It is a mistake to think that it is much easier to keep a rabbit at home than a cat or a dog. Eared pets require care and affection, and an attentive owner needs to arm himself with knowledge about caring for a new friend in advance. In this article, you will learn about the conditions of keeping a pet.

Breeds of decorative rabbits are classified:

  • by weight bodies (large, medium and small)
  • along the length of the coat(longhair, normalhair and shorthair).

Animals differ not only in appearance, but also in character. Some breeds are quite capricious and can cause a lot of trouble for a novice owner. Consider most popular dwarf rabbit breeds.

Longhaired. In appearance, the animals of this breed resemble a lump of fluff, from which ears barely peek out. Even the muzzle is covered with long hair (up to 20 mm). These rabbits require constant labor-intensive care: the wool needs to be combed every 3-4 days, and during the molting period - daily, otherwise the matted lumps will have to be cut out. Angora rabbits are medium-sized, before 1600. This breed is recommended for those who already have experience in keeping rabbits.


Originally from Belgium. Representatives of this breed are the owners of a luxurious mane that adorns the neck, while the hair on the body is short. Lionhead rabbits are the choice of those who want to have a long-haired animal, but are not ready to spend a lot of time caring for their fur. The weight of adult animals is 1000-1600 g, the colors are varied. Lionhead rabbits have a calm nature, love affection, get along with children.


Unlike the lion-headed one, it is almost completely covered with thick and long (up to 7 mm) hair, only the muzzle is smooth. The average weight is 1200 g, the most common colors are red or brown, but there are many of them. The front legs are disproportionately short. Rabbits of this breed are both aggressive and phlegmatic. Fox rabbits should not be chosen as pets for children, they require careful care.


Hermelin- completely white, normal coat. These rabbits have small ears, a short neck - features that give them the appearance of a charming toy. The animals are small, weight does not exceed 1500 g, but usually less than a kilogram. Germelins do not tolerate heat well, this must be taken into account when choosing a place for a cage or aviary. Otherwise, they are unpretentious, but very capricious, it will not be easy for beginner rabbit breeders with such pets.


Rex (royal pygmy) - short-haired, very soft to the touch, plush fur, like a chinchilla. The variety of colors is impressive: animals can be of any color, both solid and with spots. Representatives of this breed are more prone to skin diseases than others, since they have a reduced protective function of the skin. Weight up to 1500 g, salient feature- Whiskers are almost not developed. In most individuals, the character is balanced, even phlegmatic.


Colored dwarf rabbit- one of the most popular breeds in Russia. normal-haired, average weight- 1000 g. Unpretentiousness, variety of colors (there are up to 60 variations), playful and active disposition - these are the qualities due to which beginners or families with children can opt for this breed. Sometimes during puberty, males are aggressive, but by the age of 1-1.5 years, most of the animals again become affectionate and friendly.

Dwarf ram - lop-eared rabbit. The length of the ears is measured in the same way as the wingspan of a bird: from the tip of one ear to the tip of the other in a horizontal position, it is 21-28 cm. Lop-eared rams are larger than others ornamental breeds, their weight reaches 3000 g. They are distinguished by a very docile and affectionate character, unpretentious. Ideal pets for kids.


the owner of an unusual color: the back half of the body and the head have a color that matches the color of the eyes, the rest of the coat is white. Normal-haired, weight reaches 2200 g. Playful and affectionate, able to get along with other pets.


For those who want to get an eared pet with unusual color, it is worth taking a closer look at such breeds as moth, pygmy hare and dwarf butterfly.


Breeds of dwarf rabbits are very diverse., among them everyone will be able to choose an animal to their liking. Rabbit specialists from nurseries or consultants in pet stores will answer questions about keeping and care and advise on which breed to choose for those who decide to get a decorative rabbit for the first time.

Features of keeping a dwarf rabbit at home

So, a new pet will soon appear in the house. What is the first thing to take care of? Decorative rabbits are kept at room temperature, in a dry room without drafts.. At the same time, it should be possible to ventilate the room: fresh air has a beneficial effect on the well-being of the animal and prevents the appearance of an unpleasant odor. Dirt, dust, direct Sun rays will inevitably harm the health of the rabbit.

Rabbit can live in a cage or aviary, but in order for the animal to run and play to its fullest, it must be let out daily for a walk around the apartment.

Rabbits willingly gnaw on everything that comes into view. So that the pet does not spoil things and does not get hurt himself, you need to remove everything in advance dangerous items giving Special attention wires. Releasing the animal from the cage, you can not leave it unattended.

To make your pet feel safe, house needed- an analogue of a hole where you can climb entirely. It is undesirable to get the rabbit out of the shelter: the animal must know that there is a place where you can hide or rest, and where no one will touch it.

How to choose a cage for a pet?

  • Minimum cell size- 70x40 cm. It should be spacious enough so that the rabbit can move freely on it. Optimal Height- the growth of a rabbit standing on its hind legs, length - three jumps, width - two.

  • For an apartment cages with monolithic walls are poorly suited: They are bulky and difficult to move. Comfortable cages with rods made of wood and metal. Wood is safe and beautiful material, the only drawback is that the rabbit will definitely gnaw the cage and it will quickly lose its aesthetic appearance. The animal will be comfortable in a cage made of metal mesh. If it is equipped with a plastic tray, cleaning will be a matter of a few minutes.
  • Open cage top will allow the pet to feel freer, however, in this case, the height of the walls should be such that the rabbit cannot jump over them.
  • bottom of the cage regardless of the material covered with bedding. From sitting on a hard surface, rabbits develop pododermatitis - painful sores on the paws.

  • A toilet tray is installed in the corner. Rabbits get used to going to the toilet in the same place as well as cats, although it will take more time to accustom it. The presence of the tray makes it easy to clean the cage.

  • A drinker is fixed on the cell wall(a nipple drinker for rodents is suitable). Food bowls are either also fixed to the wall or placed on the floor. For rabbits, you need to choose ceramic or metal feeders with a flat bottom., heavy enough that the animal does not turn them over.
  • The cage is placed in a quiet and bright place., away from direct sunlight. There may be a small corner of the cage in the sun, then the rabbit can go out to warm up or hide in the shade again at any time. A curious pet will be happy if the cage is installed on a dais, which will provide good review. The rabbit will observe with interest what is happening in the apartment.
  • If there is a cat or dog in the house, they should not have free access to the cell. Joint games with other animals are possible only under the supervision of the owner. A predator sniffing the cage will greatly disturb the rabbit, which is prey by nature.
  • In a cage put a house-shelter. A rabbit with nowhere to hide is stressed.

Cell cleaning

rabbit cage to avoid the appearance of an unpleasant odor, clean at least 3 times a week. The bottom is covered with hay, straw or wood filler. Newspapers or paper should not be used: wet bedding is a common cause of paw disease; small sawdust is also dangerous for animals, since wood dust on the mucous membranes provokes allergies and conjunctivitis. You also need to check that the filler does not contain fragrances or chemical additives.


To clean the cage it is undesirable to use household chemicals. Remains detergent can be dangerous to the animal. If the cage is cleaned regularly, it is enough to wash it warm water. Severe dirt is removed with table vinegar.

If the rabbit is accustomed to go to the tray, the filler is completely changed twice a week.

What to do if the apartment appeared bad smell? First of all, find out the reason.

  1. Dirty aviary(cell). To get rid of the smell, cleaning is carried out daily for 7-10 days, then especially contaminated areas are treated with vinegar and the room is ventilated.
  2. Uncastrated male. Rabbits, like many other animals, mark their territory, and they cannot be weaned from this. Castration will solve the smell problem. In addition, castrated (neutered) rabbits become calmer and friendlier.
  3. animal disease. If all the rules for caring for a pet are followed, but an unpleasant smell has appeared in the cage, this is a reason to contact the veterinarian. Perhaps the eared pet is sick.

How to care for and keep a decorative rabbit in an apartment

  1. It is very important for the health of the rabbit balanced diet. Animals are fed grass and hay, cereals, fresh vegetables and complete specialized feeds.
  • Rabbits eat up to 30 times a day, food should always be available. At the same time, it is necessary to immediately remove uneaten food residues from the cage, which can deteriorate so that the pet does not get poisoned.
  • Succulent foods (vegetables, fruits, grass) are not suitable for rabbits under 3 months of age. Babies are given hay and feed.
  • rabbits happy to eat meadow grasses. Having decided to pamper your pet, you need to check that no poisonous plants are caught in the collected grass. Grass for animals is torn away from the roads.
  • Grains and legumes pre-soaked or boiled.
  • For grinding teeth animals are offered solid food: young twigs of aspen, apple, willow, birch. Dried pieces of bread will be a useful delicacy.
  • Mineral Supplements (bone meal, chalk) are given to all animals, with the exception of those that receive complete feed.

Rabbits should not be given dairy products, citrus fruits, meat, spicy, salty, sweet foods, red cabbage. Any other cabbage and beets cause indigestion. Legumes are given rarely, in small portions, in combination with other food.

  1. Rabbits who regularly run around the apartment and get enough physical activity, you can not walk. But walks on fresh air bring joy to both the owner and the pet. Having previously made sure that there are no dogs, garbage, poisonous plants nearby, the animal is released for a walk in a park or in a secluded clearing. Even the calmest the rabbit must be on a harness or leash: frightened of something, the animal can run away, and it will not be easy to catch it on the street.
  2. Every 3 weeks the rabbit's nails are trimmed.. Cut off the tip of the claw 1-2 mm long with tongs or a nail cutter so as not to touch the blood vessels (they are clearly visible in the light). If the animal bleeds, the claw is washed with hydrogen peroxide.
  3. Do rabbits need to be bathed? Veterinarians say that bathing is the most stressful for animals and contraindicated for a number of reasons.
  4. Water treatments disrupt the natural protective lubrication of the skin. As a result, the coat becomes dull, falls out, the animal feels itchy.
  5. Bathing often becomes cause of colds.
  6. Stress, which the animal experiences, can be fatal.
  7. Rabbits monitor the cleanliness of wool on their own, carefully licking themselves. With proper care washing is not necessary.

But there are situations when it is impossible to avoid swimming. For example, if an eared pet is very dirty, overheated, or suffers from diarrhea. How can you not hurt your pet?

  • wash the rabbit in the sink or a basin is more convenient and easier than in a bath.
  • Prepare room temperature water or a few degrees warmer.
  • If possible animal is better not to wet the whole and wash only contaminated areas.
  • Detergents should not be used. If you can’t do without them, purchase a special shampoo for rabbits. It is necessary to rinse the wool very carefully so that subsequently the animal, licking itself, does not get poisoned.
  • Water the animal safer not from the shower, but from the bucket or mugs.

  • head, especially ears and nose, can't get wet.
  • You will need an assistant to hold the rabbit. frightened animal can break free and injure yourself.
  • Important avoid drafts. All windows and doors must be tightly closed.
  • Dry wool thoroughly with a towel.. Until the animal is completely dry, it is undesirable to let it go on the floor, it is better to leave it on the couch or pick it up.
  • For drying wool do not use hair dryer: noise frightens animals, and delicate skin is easy to burn.

Vaccination

Timely vaccinations will help animals avoid diseases that are difficult to treat in rabbits and often lead to death. Veterinarians recommend first vaccinating pets against myxomatosis and viral hemorrhagic disease (VHD). In some cases, vaccination is not enough:

  • rabbit will participate in the exhibition;
  • planned trip abroad;
  • the pet stays in foster care pet hotel
  • registration of insurance for a pet.

Myxomatosis. The first vaccination is preferably carried out in the spring. The age of the rabbit is at least a month. Vaccination is repeated a month later, and then 5-6 months after the primary. Revaccination is required twice a year, in early spring and autumn, when outbreaks of myxomatosis occur, so that the animal maintains strong immunity. The virus is spread by insects, so it is most important to protect the rabbit during the period of their high activity.

In Russia, most veterinary clinics use RABBIVAK-B and Cunivak Myxo vaccines.


Viral hemorrhagic disease (VHD). The first time rabbits are vaccinated at the age of 6 weeks and older, while the body weight of the animal should be more than 500 g. The second time the vaccine is administered after 3 months. Revaccination is required every six months or once a year, depending on the epidemiological situation. The most commonly used vaccines are RABBIVAK-V and Cunivak RHD.

There are also complex vaccines that stimulate the production of antibodies to two diseases at once. A veterinarian should advise on their use in each case..

Rabbits are also vaccinated against pasteurellosis, paratyphoid, listerellosis and rabies, but these diseases are not so widespread. Vaccination is indicated for animals from nurseries where there are many animals and the risk of infection transmission is higher.

Decorative rabbits are able to give the owner a lot of positive emotions and joyful moments. If properly maintained and cared for, animals live up to 15 years. But, having decided to get an eared friend, you should not forget: cute and funny appearance Don't make a rabbit a toy. This is creature who needs love, affection and attention.

is a complex process, and dwarf breeds among breeders are deservedly considered one of the most problematic. Among the possible difficulties are the delayed maturation of breeding individuals and the heterogeneity of the litter.

Features of breeding dwarf rabbits, taking into account the influence of the Dwarf gene, are relevant for breeders of the following common dwarf breeds:

The following material is based on examples of breeding dwarf rabbits of the Dutch Fold breed, but the main points apply equally to the breeding of rabbits of other dwarf breeds.

Under the influence of the dwarfing gene, there are three types of individuals in the litter of the Dutch Fold:

  • dwarfs,
  • false dwarfs,
  • viable rabbits.

Rabbits of the latter type do not develop normally and usually die a few days after birth. Sometimes they live up to two weeks, in rare cases they live to adulthood and with good care can live for more than a year, being really miniature rabbits with very fragile, poor health.

False dwarfs rarely participate in shows, but can produce ideal show dwarf rabbits in a litter. Outwardly, they differ in an elongated body, long ears and hind legs, and besides, they are heavier - the weight of adult rabbits exceeds 1.8 kg.

However, all these external signs are not an absolute reason to consider an individual a false dwarf rabbit.

Rabbits, which most often take prizes at exhibitions and meet all standards, are real dwarfs. Their body is shortened, the ears are small, the hind legs are not too long, the weight range of an adult rabbit is 0.9-1.8 kg.

The rabbit in this photo is a real dwarf. It has a rounded head and a short body, weighing less than 1.8 kg.

True dwarf rabbit

The rabbit in the photo below is a false dwarf, it has an elongated body and a pointed muzzle, long legs and a weight of more than 1.8 kg. This individual will not win at exhibitions, but will not give underdeveloped rabbits in the litter.

False pygmy rabbit

How to identify underdeveloped rabbits? There are several hallmarks non-viable individuals:

  • little weight- such newborns weigh about 21 g, while the normal weight of rabbits of the Dutch Sheep breed is about 40 g. That is, these individuals are approximately half the size of normal ones;
  • the skulls are convex, the ears are set back;
  • the thighs are often underdeveloped and the hind legs may be crossed.

The decision about the fate of such rabbits is entirely on the shoulders of the breeder - some prefer to take them immediately after birth, others leave them to live out their short life together with the rest of the offspring, taking them after the onset of natural death. This difficult moment is an integral part of breeding dwarf rabbits.

In the photo on the left are normal rabbits, on the right are underdeveloped rabbits.

So how to proceed when breeding and get real dwarf rabbits? A novice breeder is often mistaken in thinking that the most true dwarf rabbits will be crossed by two true dwarfs. But everything is not so simple.

To understand the situation and create a successful breeding program, you need to understand the following:

  • a true dwarf has one true dwarfism gene combined with a normal gene (Dwdw);
  • the false dwarf has two normal genes (dwdw);
  • an underdeveloped individual has two dwarfism genes (DwDw).

On the photo is a charming Dwarf Hotot

Let's take a look at these provisions. practical examples breeding dwarf rabbits.

Example 1. Breeding when crossing two real dwarf rabbits

Suppose, in order to receive maximum number exhibition dwarfs, an inexperienced breeder crosses two real dwarfs. Let's make a table and analyze the result.

Dwdw × Dwdw Real Midget (Dwdw)
Dw dw

real dwarf
(Dwdw)

Dw Dw-Dw Dw-dw
dw Dw-dw dw-dw

Three types of rabbits will be obtained: half will actually be true dwarfs with regular features (Dw-dw), a fourth will be underdeveloped individuals (Dw-Dw), and another quarter will be false dwarfs (dw-dw).

Since the survival rate of underdeveloped individuals is very low and they are not suitable for further breeding, then, out of four individuals, two will be true dwarfs, one will be a false dwarf rabbit, and one will die. This is an average and, since dwarf breeds are usually not very prolific, the results of each individual small offspring will vary.

False dwarf - elongated muzzle, long ears

Example 2. Breeding dwarf rabbits - crossing a false dwarf with a real one

Now let the breeder breed a false dwarf with a real dwarf (it doesn't matter which of them is male and which is female). The average results will be as follows.

dwdw×dwdw True Dwarf
Dw dw

false dwarf
(False Dwarf)

dw Dw-dw dw-dw
dw Dw-dw dw-dw

So, two types of rabbits will be obtained: half of the real dwarfs and half of the false ones. Note that in this case there are no underdeveloped individuals, which in itself is a remarkable fact.

Example 3. Breeding dwarf rabbits - crossing two false dwarfs

Let's say a breeder happens to have two rabbits with two normal genes in their genotype (this makes sense, but what it consists of, we will consider later). What will happen?

dwdw×dwdw False Dwarf
dw dw

False Dwarf

dw dw-dw dw-dw
dw dw-dw dw-dw

No surprises! All 100% of individuals will be false dwarf rabbits with normal genes in the genotype.

How to use it in a dwarf rabbit breeding program?

First of all, in order to successfully breed a dwarf breed and obtain exhibition individuals, it is imperative to have individuals in the breeding herd that carry the Dw dwarfism gene, that is, real dwarfs.

But at the same time, it is not necessary to cross only dwarf individuals and part, or even half, of breeding rabbits can be false dwarfs.

On the other hand, to consolidate and balance external signs- color, shape of the ears and crown, quality of fur, shoulder width, roundness of the head and others, breeders resort to crossing two real dwarfs, knowing that they will receive a quarter of non-viable individuals in the offspring.

When choosing the sex of a pair, if possible, it is better to select a male true dwarf (Dwdw) and a female with a false dwarfism genotype (dwdw). This is due to physiological characteristics - rabbits with normal genes bear offspring better and recover faster after birth, are more prolific and show better maternal qualities.

But this does not mean that it is impossible to get offspring from a female of a real dwarf - it is quite possible and such rabbits also successfully bring rabbits.

Perhaps the breeder should weigh the feasibility and breed two false dwarfs with the right appearances for the sole purpose of getting more fertile females with normal genes (dwdw) that can be further crossed with true dwarfs (Dwdw). This offspring may well have the characteristics of show animals.

If the breeder has doubts about the genotype of an individual, they test cross, for which a dubious individual happens to a real dwarf rabbit. If non-viable rabbits appeared in the litter, then the individual in question was a real dwarf, but if there are no such underdeveloped rabbits, then the individual was a false dwarf.

Although this conclusion with a small litter may be unreliable. But if undeveloped rabbits do not appear in the next offspring, you are dealing with a false dwarf rabbit.

Once again, we note that it is impossible to rely only on external signs, in particular on weight, "by eye" determining the genotype of a rabbit. Heavy individuals can be true dwarfs and, conversely, small rabbits are false.

Participation of false dwarf rabbits in exhibitions

Sometimes the participation of false dwarfs who have not reached the limit weight in the exhibitions of thoroughbred rabbits really makes sense. This is important if the breeder wants to make sure that the external signs meet the breed standard, to understand that he is moving in the right direction or to find out what points need to be corrected. In addition, this is how you can decide for yourself complex issue- whether it is necessary to use this particular individual in breeding your dwarf rabbits.

In the photo below, the rabbit has good proportions and could well participate in the exhibition until it reaches the boundary weight and is an excellent individual for breeding.

False Dwarf Dutch Fold

Moreover, in junior groups, false dwarf rabbits may well take prizes, and such awards will not be superfluous in the portfolio of any serious breeder or nursery. The presence in the pedigree of the awarded individual will give weight to the pedigree of his offspring.

So, for successful breeding of dwarf rabbits, one should not sell or cull all the false dwarfs of the herd, on the contrary, a part can be successfully used to obtain excellent show specimens and to stabilize the line.

Based on this, it makes sense to acquire individuals with the desired characteristics for breeding dwarf rabbits, even if they are false dwarfs, and sometimes such a solution may be preferable.

Summary

1. When crossing two real dwarfs, three types of rabbits will be obtained: real dwarfs, false dwarfs and non-viable individuals.

2. If you happen a real dwarf with a false dwarf, we get half a litter of real dwarf rabbits and half false ones.

3. When used for breeding two false dwarf rabbits, all rabbits will be with the genotype of the parents, that is, false dwarfs.

4. It makes sense to show at exhibitions and use in breeding programs individuals with the genotype of false dwarfs.

Dear readers, write about your experience in breeding dwarf rabbits. If you have questions or suggestions on the topic, write in the comments.

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