The art of creating various products from a vine or willow twigs was known more than a thousand years ago. Then it was a necessary skill associated with the satisfaction of everyday human needs.
Currently, willow basket weaving for beginners and experienced craftsmen rather, it is an exciting hobby that allows you to get beautiful products designed not only for collecting and storing mushrooms, berries, fruits and vegetables, but also for decorating rooms.
Modern designers are increasingly resorting to the use of all kinds of baskets, as they allow you to fill the space with a unique rustic "spirit" and comfort, inherent only rural houses. This is especially true in rustic, country and, which are now becoming more and more popular among residents of various private houses.
Basket weaving technology
For basket weaving, you can buy ready-made willow twigs or assemble them yourself.
Freshly cut rods filled with juice must be dried well, and before starting to weave the product, soak for 30-40 minutes in hot water to make more flexible.
The tools you will need for the job are pruning shears, a sharp pocket knife, scissors, and an awl or screwdriver.
The art of basket weaving has its own simple terminology. If you look at the bottom of the basket, you will see thick straight rods that diverge from the center in the form of rays and are called "knitting needles". After they are folded upwards in the process to form the walls of the basket, they become "racks" (or "box").
All sections of thin wicker that bend between the needles and uprights are called "knit" (or "weave/weft"). Usually baskets begin to weave from the bottom. Sometimes it is also called the base. Then weave the walls, bend and, if necessary, handles.
Weaving willow baskets for beginners step by step
Consider one of the methods of weaving a basket with a diameter of about 28 cm and a height of about 12 cm.
We will need the following materials:
- 6 thick willow branches (future knitting needles);
- 24 rods of medium thickness (for the side parts of the bottom);
- 50 thin branches (25 for racks and 25 for walls);
- 12 rods of medium thickness (for a special weave designed to connect the base and walls).
In total, there are five stages of basket weaving.
Stage 1: basic
From a thick shoot, cut 6 rods 35-40 cm long with a pruner. They will serve as base knitting needles.
In the center of each of these three rods, use a knife to make a split 4-5 centimeters long. This split is called a "cut".
Put together three rods with splits, and insert the remaining whole rods into the slots so that you get a cross.
Now we begin to weave the very base (bottom).
Select the longest and thinnest rods. Take two rods and insert their thin ends into the slot of the slot, as shown in the photo.
Separate the twigs, pass thick knitting needles between them and braid them like this, skipping from above and below alternately. Thus, you need to make two circles to make weaving from two thin willow twigs.
Then continue to make the same weaves, only single ones, tightening the twigs tightly and bending each of the knitting needles outward in turn. It is necessary to try to ensure that the distance between large branches is uniform, as a design should be obtained that resembles spokes from a bicycle wheel.
The following picture clearly shows what exactly should be the pattern obtained in the process of weaving around the knitting needles.
In describing the method of weaving baskets from willow and vine for beginners, one thing is often missed. important detail, on which the quality of one of the most important elements, the bottom, directly depends. This is the need to tighten the twigs as tightly as possible after each weave of the knitting needle, without moving them up or down!
Using the described method, continue to work, moving in a circle until the twig ends.
To increase the length, do not use two new branches at once. Just stick the twig with the pointed end between the old twigs from the last rows, bend it in the right direction and continue weaving at least a few more moves forward before changing the second twig. Trim the remaining ends carefully. As a rule, replacement should be done when there are still about 10 cm left to the end of the branch.
The base of the finished product should turn out to be slightly concave so that the basket can stand firmly on the veranda or. The bottom execution technique clearly demonstrates that, when a diameter of 7-8 cm is reached, you need to tightly wrap your hands around it and “push it out” a little thumbs the very center out. However, here it is important not to overdo it and not to bend the base too much.
Continue weaving until the bottom reaches a diameter of about 22 cm. It is advisable to guess so that this moment coincides with the end of the next twigs, the ends of which should be fixed by tucking between the branches of the previous row.
Cut the ends of the twigs with secateurs as close as possible to the wicker base itself, but so that they still rest against the knitting needles.
Here is the bottom and it's ready. For beginners, the result may turn out a little different than in the photo, but this is completely normal.
Stage 2: breakdown of the base
At this stage, new branches are added to the weaves of the base to each knitting needle, which will then play the role of racks for further development baskets.
It is important to consider that each wicker has a natural curve with an inside and outside.
For high-quality weaving of our basket, we need 24 such branches. Cut each of them with scissors or secateurs to get a pointed and long oblique cut, located strictly on the inside or outside of the rod, but not on the side.
Holding the base with the concave side down, press the awl or screwdriver into the weave next to the needle as shown in the photo.
Remove the awl and immediately insert the prepared rod inside down and another rod on the other side of the knitting needle. Using the same method, insert two branches into the will of each knitting needle.
AT different descriptions weaving strong willow baskets for beginners, it is always indicated that the rods must be inserted with the inside down so that the product bends itself beautifully. If instead we insert them outside down, the basket will move apart.
On each upright, make a kink a short distance from the beginning of the weave of the base (about 5 mm) by simply pressing on them with your thumbnail.
Raise all the racks up, secure them with a hoop or tie them, making sure that there is no bending inward and skew to one side.
Cut the base knitting needles of the bottom at the same level with the edge of the weave a little below the bend of the uprights.
Stage 3: connecting the bottom to the walls
One of the most milestones in weaving baskets is the connection of the finished bottom with racks with the side. In order for this transition to turn out to be uniform and look neat, use the softest light twigs of medium thickness in the amount of three pieces.
Position the basket on your lap with the base towards you - this will be the easiest to work with.
Take three twigs of uniform average thickness and trim their length so that it is the same. Insert them with their tips into those weaves on the bottom that are adjacent to the vertical posts. In order for the rods to hold firmly, their tips should go deep into the base by about 5 cm.
Start creating a braided pattern from the leftmost twig. Hook it and throw it over the first, and then over the second rack of the second row. Keep in mind that weaving should not be on the side, but on the edge. This will allow you to get the most aesthetic connection.
Take the next twig, moving from left to right, and braid it around the uprights in the same way.
Continue weaving around the entire base, always choosing the twigs one at a time and making sure that the branch that is in work is on top of the other twigs.
It is important to always tighten the twigs tightly during the process, which will allow the product to receive nice shape due to good fixation of the racks at the very bottom. After the first circular weave, place the basket upright on a table or any other convenient surface. This will make the next process easier.
Leave the small end of the twig sticking out, as shown in the photo. Start adding new branches from left to right, simply moving the old twig a little and inserting a new one into the resulting weaving gap. Make a few weaves before adding the next twig.
As a rule, several circular weaves are enough to create a beautiful transition from the base to the walls. Pull the remaining free ends down through the resulting weave, and then cut off with sharp scissors.
Stage 4: weaving the walls
There are many patterns of rods of varying degrees of complexity, but when weaving a willow basket for beginners, it is better to use the simplest option, the diagram of which is presented below.
With an odd number of racks, it is permissible to use one rod as the basis of weaving, however, we got 24 racks, so the best option is an interweaving of two branches.
Place the blank of the basket on a vertical surface, place some weight in it that will prevent the product from falling, and start weaving. First add one twig, and only after a few throws over the racks in front and behind (about the middle of the diameter of the basket) add the second. Next, the branches need to be alternated, using one after the other in turn.
When the twig is finished, add a new one in the same way as shown in the picture. Always trim the branch before it becomes too narrow, so that there are no too thin parts in the weave.
After making a few circles, remove the hoop that supports the racks. If at the same time they begin to move too much to the sides, return the mount to its place. In total, you need to move up about 9 cm.
After completing the main weave, take three of the same twigs that were used to create the connection between the bottom and the walls. Secure them by simply sliding the ends under the posts.
Make several circles of weaving light rods of medium thickness and tightly fasten the ends in the same way that was described above at the stage of connecting the base and walls.
Stage 5: weaving bends
The final stage in the manufacture of the basket is the weaving of the bend, to create which you need to bend vertical racks and continue the pattern with their help.
Take three light twigs used in the previous weaving, attach them to one rack and bend it to the right. Do this for all vertical branches.
Then take one bent rack and pass it through the bottom of the third rack, slipping through the previous two.
Do the same with all the racks in turn, moving to the right side. Make sure that each branch is firmly bent down before using the next.
When only three racks remain in a vertical position, stretch them in the same way, only wind the ends behind the existing weaves, tightening them tighter.
As a result, long ends sticking out should remain. Cut them off with an oblique cut.
As a final touch, carefully examine the product and remove all small tips with sharp scissors or secateurs, trying to make an oblique cut on the same level with the rest of the plane of the walls or bottom.
That's the whole technology of weaving different willow baskets for beginners. With its help, both ordinary things and real masterpieces are created.
original appearance products are obtained by using willow twigs of various shades in various combinations.
That's truly ancient art: wicker weaving. In any country, you can find products made from a vine, and from historical films we know that among ancient people, the first containers for carrying dry goods were boxes and baskets woven from long, flexible branches and twigs. Currently from the rank of folk craft weaving turned into fine art.
It is hardly possible to find a house in which there would be no thing woven from willow twigs. These are graceful vases, crackers, candy bowls, trays and coasters, flower pots, openwork chandeliers and desk lamp, floor lamps and sconces, panels and floor vases. Baskets and baskets, handbags and boxes for household needs. The interiors of apartments are sometimes filled with chic wicker furniture: beds and bedside tables, original sofas and rocking chairs, coffee tables and great screens. What is the secret of such popularity and durability of these products. Vine is flexible, durable, beautiful natural material.
FIRST WE PREPARE THE VINE
Step one:
We wrap each nail with a clothesline (there should be an odd number of nails), reaching the end to the right, turn and the rope should wrap around the nails in a checkerboard pattern. We press each row with an awl and achieve neat weaving.
Step two:
Having trained on a clothesline, we move on to weaving with willow twigs. We complicate the process: we braid in two rods, in three or more. At the corners, we crimp the rods with round-nose pliers. You should get a small braid. This method is called simple weaving.
Step three:
You can work on the trainer different types and weaving methods: layered, in rows, square, openwork, with a rope, bending.
Step four:
We make a round simulator. On the round board we fill nails in circles different diameter. The number of nails should also be odd and repeat the first three steps.
Step five:
Sliced young, long willow twigs are soaked in water.
Step six:
We cut out an oval bottom for flower pots from plywood for several flower pots. We drill holes for the rods. The diameter of the holes is slightly smaller than the vines. There must be an odd number of holes. We install the racks and weave them into two rods to the desired height. The ends of the woven rods must remain inside the pots. At the end of the work, they must be cut with side cutters at an acute angle.
Step seven:
The top edge of the planter can be simply cut off the racks shoe knife a centimeter above the weave or insert the thin ends of the racks into the main weave with a certain step (for example, through three racks)
With seeming simplicity, the product will turn out to be beautiful, subject to very careful weaving. Each next row must be pressed against the lower awl and strictly monitor the parallelism of the rows.
This article is published to replace my old guide; to see the old version see here www.bushcraft.ridgeonnet.com/basic_basket_old_version.htm
I'll start by introducing some simple terminology...
When you look at the bottom of the basket, the strong, straight rods that radiate from the center are called "Spokes". After they are bent up to form the walls, I call them "Racks". (These straight lines that create the bar profile are commonly referred to as "Box")
All sections of willow vine that curve between the spokes/uprights are called "Weavers" (the traditional name is "Weft").
My knowledge and experience of basket weaving is based on self-learning. I have not taken any specialized courses, so the instructions below describe my own methods. The specialist may use a technique that differs slightly from my method of making this type of product. Not being an expert, I still want to present my knowledge of basket weaving in this article.
I collect wicker for baskets in the countryside. Not all types of willow are suitable for making baskets; some of them give a material that is too brittle, which cracks when bent too hard during the manufacture of the edges of the basket. When I'm looking for a suitable willow, I just bend the branch 90 degrees or more, and if it cracks, then it means that it is not suitable for the basket ... and I have to look for other options. Often the best option is a willow with bark dyed red, purple and orange colors. I don't know any names of willow species, I just know what is better and what is worse from what I see.
If you do not have the opportunity to collect willow yourself, you can buy ready-made rods. Musgrove's Willow (http://www.musgrovewillows.co.uk/) is a great company where you can get about 700 rods for about 20 including postage.
If the collected rods are damp, they must be dried. Baskets made from freshly cut twigs filled with juice lose their shape and become loose after a while. When the willow is dried, its bark is slightly wrinkled.
Before you start weaving, the rods must first be soaked to make it more flexible. If the willow branches have retained their bark, then soaking may take about 1 week. Many recommend wrapping the rods in a damp cloth and leaving them overnight to "ripen".
You don't need a lot of tools to make a simple basket like the one in the photo. It is enough to have a pocket knife, secateurs and possibly an awl. I used to make baskets using only a knife, but pruning shears are easier to work with! 
Cut 8 rods from the thick shoot. Cut them approximately the length from your elbow to your fingertips. 
In the center of four of these branches, make a split a few centimeters long. 
Insert whole rods into the split so that you get a cross. It's called Slath.
(alternate thick and thin ends to even them out) 
Carefully select the thinnest and longest shoots from the collected branches, this will allow you to make good weaving from the very beginning. Take two rods and insert their thin ends into the slot of the slot, as shown here ... 
In the beginning, we will use a weaving technique called "Twining" - Weaving, twisting. This is a very easy weaving method and is good for holding knitting needles and posts together firmly. The technique consists in holding two knitting rods and twisting them alternately one after the other so that they change places. Each bend always goes in the same direction. After each bend, the next knitting needle (or knitting needles in this case) is placed between the two knitting bars and then the next bend begins ... thus, they are held in place. Look at the photo... it's really very simple!
Braid around four knitting needles. Make two rows. 
When you have finished braiding two rows around each row of four needles, start braiding each needle separately. Bend each knitting needle outward to braid them one by one. Arrange the spokes evenly so that after completing one row of weaving, we get evenly spaced spokes, like the spokes of a bicycle wheel. Make a couple more rows of weaving with this method. 
At some point, you will get close to the end of the rods used for knitting, and you will need to build them up. It is better not to add two new rods at the same time. Look at the photo, in this example I am replacing the "B" rod with a new rod, labeled "A". I took rod A, sharpened its end, then put it between the rods of the last two rows, then bent it following the order of weaving the old knit. Now I can cut the old rod B and continue the basket weaving.
When replacing one rod with another, keep the thick end thick and the thin end thin. 
The replacement of the second old rod must be carried out a little further in a circle from the replacement of the first. 
After you have weaved a couple of rows around the knitting needles, we stop using the twisted weaving method and continue to weave in a simple way, which consists in a simple bypass with a rod inside and outside the spokes. You continue to weave in this way until the base expands to the desired diameter. However, in order to properly perform such a simple type of weaving, we need an odd number of knitting needles. We have 16 knitting needles, so we need to add one more. Just place it between the bars of the last pair of rows. Sometimes it is difficult to push in a new needle, so use an awl to widen the hole (if you don't have an awl, you can use a thick metal nail). 
Cut off one of the knitting rods and continue to weave in the usual way from the inside and outside around the knitting needles. 
To add a new knitting rod, place a new one next to the old knitting rod, and continue to weave. 
Continue weaving until you have weaved the bottom desired diameter. In my case, the bottom was made with a diameter of 8 inches. 
The bottom can take a concave shape ... this is good, because. this will give stability to the basket. You can increase the curl by constantly pressing down on the needles as you weave. 
It's time to form the walls of the basket. At this stage, use willow shoots of medium thickness, you will need one for each knitting needle. Each of them sharpen the thick end. 
Now you need to place a new willow shoot in the weave along each needle. If you look closely at the willow shoot, you will notice that the thick end is slightly curved; place each shoot with the concave side facing down. 
Cut off the ends of the old rods at the level of the knitting edge. 
Now take one of your new uprights and bend it down to the left under the two adjacent bars, then turn it up as shown in the first two photos below. Now take the next rod on the left and bend it the same way. Continue in the same way to weave the basket in a circle. It's quite difficult to keep the racks in place, but try to do your best.
At this stage, the posts can simply be bent upwards, but it is better to bend them as described above, because. this makes it possible to make an edge that gives the basket greater stability. 
The last two rods of the racks will not have the following racks in order to be able to bend them; therefore, they will simply need to be twisted around the first racks. When you twist the last two rods, everything will be tightly connected.
Tie the top ends of the uprights together so they don't fall out of place. 
Now you can start weaving the sides of the basket. You can simply start the main weave right after the uprights are bent up, but for the purposes of this guide, we will start with a weaving method called "three rod wale". This type of weave gives a beautiful edge before the main weave begins; and also helps to firmly hold the upturned bars of the uprights in position.
In order to weave "in three rods", place three new rods along three adjacent racks. Take the leftmost rod and bend it to the right in front of two adjacent posts, then behind the third; and then come back forward. Now take the next rod and repeat the action; then the next one, and so on… 
When you finish weaving the second row with three rods, you can untie the upper ends of the rack rods. 
Now we can start weaving with the main method, which forms the supporting sides of the basket.
We will use a type of weaving called "French Randing". This type of weaving is very popular; with it, you can make even walls and weave much faster at a good pace.
First of all, you need to add one rod for each upright around the circumference of the basket. Choose good, long and thin rods of the same length. Add rods one by one so that the direction of the tips of the shoots is directed towards the left hand. Place the butt end behind the bar of the upright, then pass it in front of the next upright on the left, then behind the third upright, then bring it forward. The knitting rod will be held in place by itself. Now add the next rod, put the butt behind the next post on the right; weave over the end of the previous rod in the same way. Continue adding rods until you have braided the entire basket.
Now let's start weaving ... start with any knitting rod, just braid it to the left in the same way that you used before: forward, backward, then forward again. Then take the next knitting rod on the right and do the same ... that's all, just continue to weave around the circumference of the basket. 
When you return in a circle to the place where you started weaving, you will see that two knitting rods, instead of one, ended up behind two rods of racks. You may be puzzled with which knitting rod to start ... Start with the rod that is located below, then everything will return to order. The photo shows that the knitting rod number 1 should be braided before number 2.
Now this row of knitting is completed, and you can continue by taking the knitting rod and braiding it in the same way as before. 
Continue weaving with the French welt method until all the knitting rods are braided to the ends. Cut off individual excess ends of the rods. 
Close the Runt next to the three rods ... 
You can increase the basket to the height you need with the same French welt. One layer of welt will suffice for this type of basket. All we have to do now is bend the bars of the uprights down and weave them into the edge. There are many various options edges, which are made by interlacing the rods of the racks in front and behind in different combination. I think you can design your own...
For this exact model... take one of the upright bars and bend it down to the right. Place them behind the next two racks; ahead of the third and fourth pillars; then behind the fifth pillar; then back forward. Now take the next rack on the right and repeat the weave in the same order. 
The last pair of uprights won't be vertical enough to wrap around them. However, repeat the same weave, pushing the tips in and out of the edges to achieve the same pattern.
At the end, trim the long ends flush with the edges of the basket. 
If you do not need a pen, then the basket is complete! Great job! 
If you need to add a handle, keep reading...
To form the main part of the handle, you will need a thick flexible shoot of a willow or other suitable tree. I used dogwood. Bend it and mark the length of the handle you need, then cut it off. Point the ends and push them down between the knitting rods from opposite sides. 
Now take 4 or 5 long, medium-thick willow shoots, and insert them into the weave near the end of the handle. 
Wrap these shoots around the handle a few times until you reach the other side. Pass the ends under the weave of the edge of the basket. 
Repeat final stage work from the other end to fill the voids in the weave. 
Grasp the ends of the bars and pull them so that the braid fits snugly against the handle. Then stick a thin willow rod into the weave next to it. 
Bend a new piece of willow and start wrapping it around the ends of the braid to secure the ends in place. After a few turns, hide the end as shown in the illustration. 
Trim the ends at the end. 
Cart completed! In the center stands a basket made entirely of blackberry shoots. To see how to prepare blackberry shoots for baskets, check out my old article about baskets.
If you made it to the end, great! 
Extract from old version articles
Blackberry is an excellent material for many reasons: it dries quickly, is very flexible, beautifully colored, strong, has long shoots, and they are almost uniform in thickness throughout their length. I also worked a lot with blackberry shoots without even soaking them before weaving, thus saving a lot of time.
If you are using willow or blackberry, then you need to dry it. You can tell that it has dried out by its reduced weight and shriveled bark. There are a few certain types willows that are suitable for weaving and are best harvested in winter, if possible in winter, when the amount of juice is less and there are no leaves on the branches.
You may ask how to remove the thorns from the brambles and make the branches suitable for weaving... the first time I picked brambles I destroyed a pair of good leather gloves. I found the best thing to wear leather gloves, but keep a piece of tarpaulin or sturdy material on top. Holding the branch by the growing end, stick your hand (protected with leather or cloth) down the stem, then cut it off at the base. It will be rough cut to remove all spines and leaves, but the stem will still be rough. Set the blackberry shoots aside to dry completely, then push them through sandpaper clamped in your hands, this will make the branches smooth and make it possible to work with them without problems. The design of the baskets is the same regardless of the material you use. Choose your escapes wisely. Don't pick brambles that are too thick or too short for the job and look for long shoots.
Yes, willow is one of the most flexible and durable trees, try it, break off a branch from it! I twist - I twist, I want to tear off. And it was not in vain that our ancestors used willow twigs for all kinds of handicrafts that could be useful in the economy. Willow weaving and skillful hands could weave a fence, decorative and the strongest, household, could weave baskets, baskets, and all this different sizes and forms. Now weaving from willow is no less popular, but many lazy people prefer to use ready-made similar things, but from others, synthetic materials. Although the brave fellows have perfected such a craft as willow weaving and even create furniture from ordinary willow twigs, not counting all sorts of little things - wall shelves, pendants, plant pots, air-permeable summer doors, window blinds, chandeliers, etc. etc.
Also, do not forget that the frame itself can be made of willow twigs, and the gaps can be braided from corn leaves, which also looks decorative. Only such buildings are more suitable for winter shelter of plants.
Willow weave develops your hand skills so you will not only create a beautiful thing, but will further improve your hand speed and dexterity, which can come in handy for other jobs as well. In general, it seems to me that weaving from willow is like meditation - it calms, sets you up for positive thoughts, because when weaving is obtained, then how can you not rejoice here! Especially when every minute you see an ever-increasing structure of your creativity.
In this article, I will remind you that with willow weaving you can decorate your garden plot and help your plants. Firstly, from willow twigs you can weave a support for climbing plants, for vines. Willow wicker is a wonderful natural material that your plants will love. Imagine plastic support, which in the hot sun can exude chemical fumes that will be harmful to the plant. Plastic, rubber, from which the support can be made, also heat up more strongly in the sun than willow twigs, and strongly heated support materials can damage the lashes and shoots of the plant. In addition, willow twigs look very beautiful, combining with their brown color. bright color greenery and coloring of flowers.
Such a support, as you see below, can be used for vines and climbing plants. And notice, at the bottom there is a circle with holes into which the first rods are inserted. If you come up with something similar from improvised materials, then it will be easy for you to weave a support or a covering structure. Such a holder below can be made from a wooden circle, in which you need to drill holes along the edge with a drill.
Secondly, willow weaving can help you protect your non-hardy plants from the winter cold. How? You can weave caps for plants from rods, install them so that the plant is inside, and fill the space between the plant with the wall of the willow cap with dry leaves. In winter, such structures look very beautiful.
Weaving from willow supports for plants. Before weaving a support for a plant, pay attention to the climbing plant or vine itself, you need to know its adult size. For example, a liana called dolichos can grow up to 2 to 3 meters in length. But it can still be formed in this way: first, raise it to a certain height, for example, 1 meter in height, and then, using a support, form a ball at the highest point, and then the dolichos will take unusual shape like a standard plant. Look at the picture below - what a beauty! We thank the unknown creator for these ideas!
With the help of weaving from willow, you can weave support supports for bushes, which, under the weight of flowers, can break branches. For example, a neat wicker fence that will support heavy peony flowers will look beautiful. Or have you grown and stretched so rudbeckia that the next strong winds throw her to the ground. How did you do it before? They drive in a peg near the plant and tie it around the plant with a rope, then tying the rope to the peg. But this is bad taste. No, that's not good enough ... Is it really easier to buy a coil of rope than to get to the willow plantations and cut the rods? Well, if you planted a plant so that it would be like everyone else, so that people would not say that you have an empty yard, then continue to worry and listen to the opinions of strangers. Don't just plant plants! And if you plant, then pledge to love each and care properly. Better 5 healthy, beautiful plants than ornamental plants that look like weeds. Therefore, you can weave the same support for the same rudbeckia. Yes, this plant is tall, but imagine how it will look when yellow, orange, or brownish flowers rise from behind a woven fence? Rudbeckie, though not super - beautiful plant, but with such a fence, it will acquire a super-decorative effect!
Weaving from willow shelters for plants. Now you can buy all sorts of covering materials for plants for the winter. Well, it might be easier for some people. There is no time, we work, we run. Well, why are you sitting? There is time to sit on the Internet, which means there will be time to look for willows from which you can cut rods. So, sheltering plants from wicker is like a win - you both protect plants from frost and decorate the garden in winter. And do not pay big money for covering material.
Tip: the design for shelter for the winter of a plant should have a hole on top, that is, you need to weave not a “wigwam”, but a cylinder. You put this cylinder on top of the plant, and pour dry leaves inside through the upper hole to cover the plant sufficiently. From above we cover with a woven circle and fix it so that the wind does not blow it away. Such braided caps are well suited for protecting conifers from spring sunburn.
What do you need to understand so that weaving from willow is given to you? Maybe someone will not succeed the first time, but there is nothing complicated in this craft. The most important thing is to learn how to fix the beginning and end of the wicker well. To learn how to weave caps for plants, supports, or as they are also called, an obelisk from willow for plants, it is not necessary to find just such a technique. It is enough to watch a video about weaving the same baskets, change the ending a little, since we don’t need handles, but otherwise everything is the same. So, let's watch weaving willow video:
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Weave from willow
For willow weaving you will need:
- decorative pot or planter with earth,
- secateurs,
- clothespins with a good spring,
- willow rods of the same length and diameter.
It is also good to have small thin branches in order to weave a restrictive rope on top of the tree at the end of the work. It is advisable to take a special breeding variety that is grown on plantations - "Basket Willow" or "Giant American". Wild willow can work well for wicker wood too, but you'll have to go around a lot of willow bushes to find even, long twigs.
Summer willow tree you can also weave directly from the ground - for this, the ground is well loosened and watered beforehand. Weave it in a pot in early spring, the willow takes root in it and by the beginning of the planting season - from the first days of May - such a tree is ready for planting. Before weaving, all rods are updated with an oblique cut using a pruner.
Planting and caring for a willow tree
After the weaving of the tree is completed, the top of the head is carefully trimmed with pruners. The willow will now begin to take root. Each kidney will give a sprout 5-6 cm long, they will need to be pulled out of the sinus. This technique is called "blinding the kidney." Nothing else will grow in this place and the trunk will remain smooth.
On the head of the tree, on the contrary, greens are left. When the sprouts reach a length of about 10 cm, they are pinched from above by hand or cut with secateurs. The more often you cut the green crown, the more magnificent and thicker it will be.
Before planting a tree in open ground dig a hole slightly larger than the planter containing the willow. Compost is laid in the pit, the soil is watered abundantly, the rooted tree is pulled out of the pot and buried. After that, the willow must be watered again. Top dressing with fertilizers is not necessary, but it will not be superfluous either.
In the first year of planting, the tree is actively developing root system, during the first 2-3 weeks, the willow needs daily watering. The more often you water a tree, the better it will take root.
A living wicker tree will no longer require additional care. In winter, the willow does without shelter.
The material was prepared by Elena Volozhanina and Ilya Tataurov.
