A do-it-yourself kitchen table is both an opportunity to save money and a way to provide the kitchen with unique furniture that fits perfectly into the available space. However, it is important to correctly determine the dimensions and shape of the future structure.
How to make a wooden dining table
A table made of solid wood is beautiful, natural and, as a rule, expensive. But buying such a table is not necessary, because you can make it yourself with no less quality and for much less money.
So, to make a dining table with your own hands, you will need:
- 4 things. baluster legs for the table, 73 cm high and not too thin;
- For the tabletop: 4 dry edged wooden boards 1 m long (for a table 60 cm wide);
- For the frame: 2 boards 80 cm long and 2 boards 40 cm long.
Prepare tools: planer, grinder or grinder, jigsaw for cutting boards, circular saw, drill (with 8 mm drill), screwdriver, sandpaper, self-tapping screws (30 mm), wood glue, dowels, clamps (preferably). And, of course, a pencil, tape measure, gloves and goggles will come in handy.
To finish the table, you will need varnish, stain or paint along with a primer. Let's make the table first. To do this, you need to fit all 4 boards as accurately as possible to the same length - 100 cm. If your boards were not sawn at the sawmill, then they also need to be trimmed in width and thickness. Then they need to be carefully polished with a planer. The better you sand the wood, the smoother the countertop will be. Work the edges well so that the boards fit as tightly as possible to each other.
We will connect the boards not with screws and nails, but with glue and dowels (chops). To do this, we make the same marks on the edges of all boards in increments of 10-15 cm and drill holes for the dowels with an 8 mm drill. Then we sand the edges and apply wood glue to them and into the holes made. Now we drive the chopsticks processed with the same glue into the holes and connect all 4 bars in turn. We remove excess glue on the surface with sandpaper and grind it, as well as all edges with a planer. At this stage, you can go over the countertop with a metal sponge to give the wood texture.
So, the tabletop is ready. Now you need to fasten the legs and make a base for it.
To do this, you need to evenly fasten the balusters with short transverse boards with glue and screws. The glue dries for at least 12 hours.
We fasten the legs to the long crossbars and drill holes in them in order to install the countertop later.
After the glue in the frame dries, you can proceed to install the countertop on it (frame).
If you want to make the table longer and wider, then you need to strengthen the table with two additional cross bars, as shown in the photo.
So, the table is almost ready, it remains only to treat it with varnish or stain or paint it, having previously primed it.
What color to paint the table? Start from personal preferences and the color of the rest of the furniture. Below is the most versatile option - the table top and legs are stained.
You can see the main mistakes of staining a tree with your own hands in this video.
If you like gloss, then the surface of the table can be stained, and varnished on top (example in the photo below), or simply varnished.
You can paint the legs white, and stain the countertop to get a design like in the next photo.
How to make a kitchen table from chipboard
A do-it-yourself kitchen table made of laminated chipboard is a practical and budget solution. Such countertops are covered with decorative plastic, which is resistant to abrasion. In a typical version, the dimensions of the tabletop canvas are 3000x600x36 (26) mm, but today it will not be difficult to purchase a chipboard sheet sawn to the desired dimensions or negotiate in a furniture workshop to sell a suitable trim.
You will also need:
- Connecting and end strips;
- end edges;
- Ties.
Even if you get a countertop of the right size, you will need to additionally process the ends - this will make the result more attractive, as well as ensure that the base is protected from moisture. For these purposes, you can use a special furniture edging based on polyvinyl chloride or glue an edge tape. The edging option is considered more practical for a dining table and suitable for home craftsmen.
For the kitchen table, you will also need appropriate supports - you can buy the legs separately or give preference to the finished base. It all depends on which option your drawings provide. The most common option is round legs D = 60 mm and 71 cm high. They can be collapsible, adjustable in height, and also differ in design - matte, painted, shiny.
In our case, these will be shiny chrome-plated legs-rods with a diameter of 60 mm, as well as a tabletop made of white chipboard 36 mm thick and a white plastic mortise T-shaped edging with girths is matched to it.
So, how to make a dining table with a chipboard top:
- The marking is applied to the material according to the drawing. Rounding corners must have a radius of 60 mm or more.
- The tabletop is shaped with a jigsaw.
A saw with reversible teeth should be used, otherwise the plastic coating may be chipped. First, the corner of the chipboard is cut with a jigsaw with a margin of 2 mm, and then it is finally rounded off with a grinder.
- A groove for furniture edging is milled.
- The edging is stuffed. Before this, the ends of the product must be covered with silicone sealant. The sealant is laid both in the edging and on the top side of the countertop. A rubber mallet is used to stuff the piping. Then the excess sealant is removed.
- The legs are attached. To do this, markings are made with a pencil on the back of the tabletop. In most cases, the legs are placed 100 mm from the edge.
To fasten the holders, self-tapping screws with a countersunk head about 20 mm long are used. After that, the legs are put on the holders and fixed with a hex key - that's it, your new table is ready.
How to correctly determine the dimensions
According to the principles described above, tables can be made larger or smaller in length and width. How to choose the best size for your family?
If we are talking about a standard kitchen with dimensions from 6 to 8 squares, then the drawings will show a typical design with a height of 750 mm and a perimeter of 800 * 500 ... 1200 * 600 mm.
A do-it-yourself dining table should be calculated for a certain number of people. Usually it corresponds to the number of residents - 3-9, but a couple of free places are still added for guests. For large companies, a good solution will be.
Calculations are carried out as follows: the number of persons is multiplied by 60 (“working” perimeter per person). As for the width of the countertop, here we follow the recommendations of experts - its optimal values are from 800 to 1100 mm. Narrow tables are difficult to serve, and wide tables are uncomfortable for those sitting.
If you decide to make the kitchen table oval (round) with your own hands, then you will have to calculate the circumference - diameter * 3.14.
Form Selection Rules
The shape of the kitchen table plays a significant role in the perception of space. Universal design - a rectangle or square with right angles. It is balanced and can be installed close to the wall or in the center of the room, saving space.
Oval models are also quite comfortable and beautiful, but they do not differ in large capacity - the most dimensional product will accommodate no more than 8 people. In addition, they require large areas - more than 8 square meters. meters, because you can’t put them against the wall.
It can also be called a universal and traditional option, suitable for both very and large kitchens. But it has less capacity than a rectangular table.
The best option is a rectangular table with rounded corners. How to make such a table from chipboard with your own hands, we have already described above.
Furniture care rules
After the dining table is made, you will need to take care of the long service life of the product.
So, furniture made of wood, polished and lacquered, needs careful care, as it can be easily scratched. In addition, traces of contact with hot are possible here. A universal polishing composition is selected as a basic wood care.
If we are talking about a countertop made of MDF or chipboard with a plastic coating, then caring for it is not difficult and consists in regular washing with detergents.
Do not forget that kitchen furniture must be moved away from heaters and from walls bordering the street. Direct sunlight will also be harmful to wooden furniture.
Landscaping is an ongoing process. You build something, you improve it. Moreover, furniture is constantly required and tables are most in demand in the country. And put in the garden, and near the house, and also in. How to make a table for a summer residence with your own hands we will tell in this article using the example of finished projects.
Homemade table from boards from pallets
Dismantled pallets served as the material for this table. Naturally, you can use new boards. Only one condition - they must be dry. You can buy dry ones (it costs more) or buy ordinary ones, put them somewhere in ventilated piles and soak for at least 4 months, or better, six months. In general, any furniture, including, is made from dry wood.
We assemble the table for the street - put it in the gazebo, therefore we will not glue the tabletop boards, but fasten them from below, with the help of planks. This is a very simple country table and very cheap.
Having dismantled the pallets, we get boards with an individual color and pattern. Having conjured a little, shifting them several dozen times in different manners, we achieve the desired result. It turns out quite a nice table.
We take the side parts of the pallet. We use them for the frame of the table. We grind them first with coarse sandpaper, then finely bring them to the required smoothness (grain 120 and 220).
We take the strips that remained unused, with their help we fasten the countertop. We place them in the place where the joints of the boards are located. We use two self-tapping screws for fastening each board with a joint, one for a solid one.
From the processed sidewalls and two boards (also sanded), we assemble the table frame. We fix its parts with self-tapping screws at the end (two for each joint). The frame can be glued or also “planted” on self-tapping screws. Only their length is large. Under each, we pre-drill holes with a drill, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screws.
We turn the assembled countertop over and grind it. The order is the same - first with sandpaper with a large grain, then with a fine one.
Next up is installing the legs. We select four boards of the same size, check their length, adjust if necessary. Then again grinding. It's easier than sanding already screwed legs. We fasten the sanded boards to the frame. These will be the legs. For each - two self-tapping screws fixed in a diagonal (look at the photo). For greater stability, we install jumpers at the bottom. About 10 cm can be left from the floor to the lintels. We connect everything with self-tapping screws so that the boards do not crack, we pre-drill holes.
After removing the dust, varnish again. In theory, the varnish should lie flat, but depends on the wood, so another sanding / painting cycle may be necessary. As a result, we get such a homemade country table.
If you do not like motley boards and traces of old nails, you can make their boards the same design. This table can be rectangular, maybe square. All dimensions are arbitrary - see the available space.
Country table from the remnants of the boards
This do-it-yourself table for giving is assembled from the remains of boards of different breeds and sizes. Pine boards 25 mm thick and 50 mm wide went to the frame of the tabletop, the remains of 15 * 50 mm were left on the legs. We make the frame according to the dimensions you need. This table will stand on the veranda, and it has a small width. So let's make it not wide - 60 cm, and the length is 140 cm. The height of the legs is 80 cm (everyone in the family is tall).
We immediately cut off two long boards of 140 cm each. To make the width of the table top 60 cm, subtract twice the thickness of the board used - this is 5 cm. Short bars should be 60 cm - 5 cm = 55 cm. Fold the frame, following the right angles, twist with screws. We check whether the bars are folded correctly - we measure the diagonals, they should be the same.
We cut off the boards four boards of 80 cm each, fasten them from the inside to the assembled frame. You can use 4 screws for each leg.
Approximately at the middle of the height of the legs we fasten the crossbars. This is a shelf frame. The shelf can be used for its intended purpose, and it also increases the rigidity of the structure. We fasten strictly at right angles, checking with a large square.
We put the frame on the floor, check whether it staggers or not. If everything is done correctly, it should stand rigidly. Next, take sandpaper or a grinder and grind.
Let's start assembling the countertop. From the finishing work there were boards of different types of wood, some of which were stained. We alternate boards of different colors.
We fasten the tabletop boards with finishing nails, carefully finishing them with a finisher. On the shelf can be fixed with ordinary nails or self-tapping screws. Then smooth with a grinder. The last step is painting. Very unlucky with the choice of varnish. Bought too dark, did not like the look. Will have to sand again and paint a different color.
Wooden table with glued top
This design features L-shaped legs. They are assembled from boards of the same thickness. In this case, 20 mm. To keep them well, 5 self-tapping screws are needed. Pre-drill holes with a drill with a diameter of 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the self-tapping screws. Then, with a larger diameter drill, we drill recesses for the caps. The diameter can be matched to furniture plugs of a suitable color or made from a wooden rod. Another option is to use wood putty, to which you add wood dust that remains after sanding. After drying and sanding, traces will be difficult to find.
When assembling the legs, make sure that the angle is exactly 90°. As a pattern, you can choose a bar. First, we coat the joint of the two parts of the leg with carpentry glue, then install the screws in the following sequence: first the two extreme ones, then the middle one, and only then the other two. After the glue dries, sand the legs, varnish and dry.
It's time to make the tabletop. It is assembled from boards of the same thickness. Pick up the size you need. You can use fragments of different widths. It is only important that everything looks organic, and the sidewalls of the boards are even and docked without gaps.
We coat the sides of the boards selected for the table top with glue, lay them on a flat surface (some kind of table) and tighten them with clamps. In this case, they managed one, but preferably at least three. We tighten so that there are no gaps in the resulting shield. We leave for a day. Having removed the clamps, we get an almost finished countertop. It still needs to be trimmed - to align the edges, and then sand it. You can trim with a jigsaw or a regular hand saw. Using a grinder is difficult to get a straight line, but you can try. After grinding, we get a beautiful countertop.
Using the same technique, you can make an oval or round countertop. It will only be necessary to draw the appropriate line and cut the glued boards along it.
To make the table look more attractive, we will make a frame. We take a thin bar, process it with sandpaper and fasten it around the perimeter of the countertop. Finishing nails can also be used. Only the planks are also pre-lubricated with carpentry glue, and then with nails.
After the glue dries, we again process the junction with sandpaper.
Now you can attach the table legs. We assemble a table frame from four boards (there is no photo, but you can do it as in the previous paragraph). We fasten it to the back of the countertop with glue, then install furniture confirmations through the countertop. Under the confirmations, a preliminary hole is drilled with an extension for the cap. Holes for fasteners are masked in the same way as on the legs.
We attach the legs to the fixed frame. We put them inside the frame. You can attach with ordinary screws. That's it, we made a table for giving with our own hands.
How to make a wooden garden table with benches
For this table, boards of 38 * 89 mm were used (they dissolved them themselves), but you can take standard sizes. The difference in millimeters will not really affect the results. In the photo below you can see what should happen.
To connect the parts, studs 16 cm long with washers and nuts (24 pieces) were used. All other connections are made with nails 80 mm long.
The parts are installed in place, a through hole is drilled with a drill. A stud is installed in it, washers are put on both sides and nuts are tightened. Everything is tightened with a wrench. How convenient is this option? For the winter, you can disassemble and take it to a barn or garage.
Making seats
According to the drawing, we cut the boards of the required size. Everything is necessary in double quantity - for two seats. We grind the boards, pay special attention to the ends.
We cut the short segments with which we fasten the three seat boards along the edges at an angle of 45 °. First, we assemble a structure that is attached to the seat from below. We take a board about 160 cm long, at the end we attach two short boards cut at an angle to it. Attach it so that this board is in the middle.
Then we attach the legs to the resulting structure (you can use nails). Then we add more boards cut at an angle and tighten everything with studs and bolts.
We attach the seat boards to the resulting structure. Since this is a table for the street, it is not necessary to knock them down close. Leave a gap between two adjacent at least 5 mm. We nail to the supports (which are cut down), two for each board.
We fix the finished seats with four boards 160 cm long. We fasten each leg with studs (if you walk, you can put two studs by setting them diagonally or one above the other).
Putting together a table
The table is assembled in a different way. Please note that for the countertop, the transverse boards are sawn along the edges at 52 °. We fasten them at such a distance that the legs enter. Each board has 2 nails. You can finish, with small hats, or you can hammer deep, and then mask the holes with putty.
Now we need to assemble the legs-crosses. We take two boards, cross them so that the distance between their ends is 64.5 cm. We circle the intersection with a pencil. At this point, it will be necessary to remove the wood by half the thickness of the board.
We make the same notch on the second board. If you add them together, they are in the same plane. We connect with four nails.
Similarly, we make the second leg for the table. While the table is not collected.
Installing the table
Now you need to fix the legs to the structure on which the benches are installed. We put them at an equal distance from the benches, fasten them with hairpins.
Now install the table top. We also fasten it with studs. The last step is painting. Here everyone does as he likes.
Variations on a theme
According to this drawing, you can make benches and a table separately for giving, garden. The design is reliable and easy to implement.
Do-it-yourself table for giving: drawings
Friends asked me to make a table that can be put in a gazebo in the country. To make a table from a bar with my own hands, I did not choose a special version of the project, but proposed a simple scheme for assembling furniture from standard lumber: timber and boards. The main idea was that the table was low and could serve as a bench at the same time. In the workshop I had all the tools and fixtures. It remained to check everything and prepare the workplace in order to make a table of timber with your own hands.
Tools
Since the structure must be made of wood, the tool was mainly needed for woodworking. Here's what I used when making my own table from a bar:
- jigsaw;
- saw;
- gas-burner;
- drill driver;
- wrench with socket head;
- chisels;
- drill-reamer ø 2 cm;
- a hammer;
- hacksaw;
- clamps - 2 pcs.;
- die for cutting external threads ø 6 mm;
- grinder;
- roulette;
- brushes.
materials
Made a trip to the construction supermarket, and purchased the following:
- varnish PF 170 - 0.5 l.;
- wood glue;
- screws 7 cm, 50 cm, washers and nuts, plastic plugs.
Step-by-step instructions on how to make a wooden table from a bar with your own hands
Initially, I wanted to make a table of 50 x 50 mm bars with my own hands. But this idea had to be abandoned. Friends asked to make massive loft-style furniture. Therefore, I used larger lumber. I decided to make the table in two stages: assembling the supporting structure and forming the tabletop.
Countertop manufacturing
- Wood 10 x 15 x 600 cm was divided with a saw into 6 segments.
- The upper corners along the perimeter of each element were cleaned with an abrasive wheel at an angle of 45 0 0.5 cm wide.
- To make 2 through holes ø 6 mm through the tabletop, I clamped 3 pieces with clamps and drilled with a drill. Then he left 2 segments and added a new element and drilled again. I did this because there was no long drill.
- Outside, the holes were expanded with a reamer ø 2 cm to a depth of 1 cm.
- Rebar ø 6 mm sawn into 2 pieces 0.9 m long.
- At the ends of the studs, I cut the thread with a die.
- The side adjacent sides of the wooden elements were smeared with wood glue.
- I threaded 2 studs into the holes. I put washers on the ends of the rods, and screwed the nuts.
- Nuts closed with plastic caps.
- I sanded all the side and horizontal surfaces with a fine abrasive wheel mounted on a grinder.
- The gas burner burned the surface of the countertop slightly. This gave a noble appearance to the tree, emphasizing the structural pattern of the cut of the tree.
- The entire countertop was stained with a brush.
- The property of this agent is characterized by the fact that it penetrates deeply into the structure of wood, strengthening and disinfecting it. But fine fibers create hairiness on the surface of the furniture. So I refinished everything.
- The surface of the tabletop was varnished PF 170 for 2 times.
Assembly of the support structure
Before making a table from a bar, I drew drawings of the supporting part and countertops of future furniture. According to the dimensions and dimensions specified in the drawings, I began to manufacture the supporting structure of the table with my own hands.
- I made furniture legs by sawing a tree 10 x 20 cm into 2 parts 86 cm long + waste.
- At the top of the supports from the outside, I fixed bars of 30 x 30 mm on screws.
- I made a cross-beam from a board 20 x 150 x 660 cm, fixing it with screws to the centers of the sides of the supports.
- I burned the entire outer surface with a gas burner, covered it with stain, and polished it.
- Supports varnished PF 170 in two layers.
- The tabletop was mounted on a support frame.
- Through slats 30 x30 mm, I fixed the table top with screws.
Cost of materials
- timber 100 x 150 x 6000 mm = 1500 rubles;
- timber 100 x 200 x 2000 mm = 440 rubles;
- timber 30 x 30 x 2000 mm = 50 rubles;
- board 20 x 150 x 740 mm = 20 rubles;
- abrasive wheels for grinders = 50 rubles;
- reinforcement with a diameter of ø 6 mm, length 2 m = 20 rubles;
- nuts and washers 4 pcs. in stock;
- sandpaper = 10 rubles;
- stain - 0.5 l. = 100 rubles;
- varnish PF 170 - 0.5 l. = 50 rubles;
- carpentry glue 250 g = 160 rubles;
- screws 70 mm, 50 mm available.
Total costs amounted to: 2400 rubles.
Labor costs
The time spent on making a do-it-yourself table from a bar according to the drawings is combined in the following table.
Taking into account technological breaks in work, it was possible to make a table in 3 working days. A country table made of timber, made by me according to the drawings, can play a role not only as a plane for arranging objects, but also as comfortable seating furniture. This model attracts with ease of manufacture, low labor costs and practicality. During the assembly of furniture, you must comply with all safety requirements and use personal protective equipment.
It is quite possible to make a wooden outdoor table for a summer residence with your own hands. For this, ready-made or independently developed drawings are used. To make a beautiful wooden table for outdoor use yourself, you need to purchase high-quality material and follow the manufacturing rules.
A beautiful and comfortable country table is an indispensable attribute of a summer holiday. When choosing a finished product, you need to decide on the size, as well as the following parameters:
- using a piece of furniture outdoors or indoors;
- the maximum number of people that can be seated at the table;
- purchase budget.
The tabletop and the body of the outdoor piece of furniture can be made of different types of material:
- plastic models are ideal for outdoor use. The advantages are affordable cost, relative compactness and lightness. As a rule, they are produced in a round or oval shape, and can accommodate approximately six to eight people. Despite the stylish appearance, they are characterized by a not too long service life. The disadvantages include the tendency to destruction as a result of the negative effects of direct sunlight. Also, the lightweight design can turn over with strong gusts of wind, the need to use the most even surface for installation and susceptibility to damage, which is accompanied by a rapid loss of the original aesthetic appearance;
- wood models look very organic even in the modern country landscape. Such pieces of furniture perfectly complement the garden plantings. Such models are classified as quite expensive. The disadvantages of natural wood include the ability to collapse and warp under the influence of water and temperature changes, and the legs pressed into the soil can rot, which is why regular antiseptic treatment is required;
- graceful metal models high quality and incredible durability. Such furniture looks especially beautiful against the background of forged fences and decorative elements. Such tables differ in considerable weight, as well as very high cost. Very often, modern models are a very successful combination of metal with wooden or glass countertops.
If you plan to use the table in country conditions all year round, then the best option would be a metal structure, which is very resistant to any adverse external factors. The legs of a metal structure can even be concreted, which will give additional stability to a piece of furniture.
How to make a wooden table for a summer house with your own hands
Tables made of wooden boards are very often made independently. Of course, this option will require sufficient care throughout the entire period of operation, but it will allow you to give the adjacent territory in the country house a bright style and originality. Among other things, you can build the simplest models with your own hands with little time and money, even in the absence of professional skills and special tools.
We make a drawing of the table with dimensions
The self-assembly scheme may already be ready, but in order to get the original table with the most suitable dimensions and shape of the tabletop, you need to complete the drawing yourself. When drawing up a drawing, it is recommended to focus on the standard dimensions of such a piece of country furniture 178x95x77.5 cm.
Necessary tools and materials
To make a beautiful and practical table made of wood for a summer residence, you need to prepare:
- roulette;
- pencil;
- saw;
- drill or screwdriver;
- building level.
Work must be carried out in standard protective glasses and gloves. In the manufacture you need to use the building materials presented:
- a pair of boards with dimensions of 85x10x2.5 cm;
- a pair of boards with dimensions of 153x10x2.5 cm
- four boards with dimensions of 168x10x2.5 cm;
- four boards with dimensions of 75x10x5 cm;
- board 95x10x2.5 cm - 17 pcs;
- fastening tools in the form of nails, screws and bolts;
- glue for woodworking.
It is also necessary to pre-purchase antiseptic compounds for wood processing, wood varnish or special paint and brushes.
How to make a table with your own hands (video)
Getting Started: Making Wooden Outdoor Table Parts
All elements in the form of wooden boards must be smooth, of natural moisture content, made of high-quality hardwood. If necessary, before assembly, the boards must be leveled and, if necessary, sanded. To obtain a durable structure, it is necessary to carefully treat the wood with antiseptics.
It is not recommended to impregnate wood with oil formulations., which have proven themselves very well when operating in conditions of high humidity, but increase the level of flammability and give the structure an unpleasant and fairly stable odor that persists for a long time. After applying water-soluble impregnations, it is recommended to apply a layer of a special glazing antiseptic, which allows you to give high decorative properties to the product and contributes to additional protection.
Assembly and fastening of the main elements
At the first stage of independent production of a wooden outdoor summer table, the frame base of a piece of furniture is assembled. It is to the frame base that boards will subsequently be fixed to create a table top and, as well as table legs. The frame base traditionally consists of four planed and even, longitudinal boards with dimensions of 168x10x2.5 cm and a pair of end boards with dimensions of 85x10x2.5 cm.
The assembly must be carried out on the most even surface, fixing the end elements to the longitudinal boards using galvanized self-tapping screws and adhesive. Very important prevent warping of the base during assembly and fastening. After checking diagonally, additional boards 153x10x2.5 cm are necessarily fixed, which will give the assembled structure additional rigidity, as well as hide the attachment points for the legs.
The tabletop is assembled from boards measuring 95x10x2.5 cm. The boards can be fixed with both galvanized nails and self-tapping screws. Be sure to leave a gap between the elements of the countertop of 0.5 cm. Legs are fastened with screws or bolts. The second option is more preferable and allows you to get a removable model that is convenient for transportation and storage.
Installing amplifiers - a guarantee of the durability of the table
If there is a need to obtain the most massive and durable structure, then amplifiers are used. To mount such parts, it is necessary to turn the product upside down with its legs. The transverse reinforcements in the middle of the tabletop are nailed, and the corners of the amplifiers are sawn off in order to save space. A pair of amplifiers with a figured cutout, which repeats the shape of the countertop crossbars, are nailed to the sidewalls.
How to protect the table from external factors
Unfavorable weather conditions, represented by sun, rain and temperature changes, are an aggressive environment for a wooden structure that is used outdoors. To protect wooden products and extend their service life, special film coatings and a variety of impregnating compounds are used. The most commonly used protective films are based on polyurethane. The disadvantage of such a film coating is the loss of appearance, reduced efficiency and wear after a certain time. Impregnations for wood protection are represented by a mixture based on oils and solutions of repellents. Both options for protecting against external adverse factors have proven themselves well, but require periodic updating.
Wooden outdoor table: drawing (video)
We make a wooden country table from what is at hand
As a material for creating a wooden country table, a variety of improvised means are often used. Incredibly stylish and very durable, slab tables are an option that you can make yourself with some woodworking skills. In this case, you need to be prepared for the fact that the technology for manufacturing countertops based on saw cuts is characterized by characteristic specifics and is quite laborious, but the resulting finished product will be unique and unrepeatable.
Designs look very original in garden design:
- from a wooden beam for true fans of natural materials;
- from several stumps or bobbins;
- from old window frames with a glass top;
- from boxes, complemented by various decorative elements;
- from an old wooden chest with forged elements.
Tables made from pallets are also quite widespread. The fashion for such products came from Asia, where such pieces of furniture are very often made for lack of free funds. When creating such an option, you can show all your imagination, but it is very desirable to replace nails from pallets with self-tapping screws, and all fastenings of the frame and boards must be strengthened with special furniture corners. If desired, you can supplement the design with conventional furniture wheels, allowing you to make the table mobile and easy to use.
How to make a metal table with a wooden top
One of the interesting and durable options for garden furniture. For self-production you will need:
- metal profile pipe or high-quality rolled metal of sufficient cross section;
- primer for work with metal surfaces;
- paint on a metal surface and brushes;
- chalk or light marker;
- flat surface for the stencil;
- wooden tabletop;
- bars and adhesive to secure the countertop.
The tool can be represented by a welding machine, a grinder, a metal saw, a hammer, a screwdriver, self-tapping screws and bolts. The metal is pre-cleaned from rust and dirt with a steel brush, after which a frame is created in accordance with the stencil.
Welding must be done carefully to avoid the formation of welding build-up. The entire structure is cleaned with a metal brush, after which it is primed and painted. After the paint has completely dried, the countertop is fixed, which also needs to be treated with special antiseptics, and then varnished or painted.
Do-it-yourself log table (video)
Independent production of country furniture from wood is a very interesting and creative process, accessible even to beginners. Such a natural material goes well with metal, glass, and plastic, which allows you to create original, unusual and very decorative solutions with your own hands.
This piece of furniture is one of the most versatile in use. The table can be a dining table, household table, installed in a living room, on a veranda, territory, in a workshop, and so on. In a word, it is impossible to do without it. But purchased products do not suit many for a number of parameters - size, design features, shape, or for another reason.
Given that the tree is relatively easy to cut, grind, make a table out of it according to your own drawing, with your own hands for a good owner is not a problem. Yes, and it will be much cheaper. Plus - satisfaction from such work.
room
This is ideally an extension, a barn, an empty garage, although a small area under a canopy is also suitable. To work with a tree on a site, in the open air, means to be completely dependent on the vagaries of the weather. If there are “square meters” suitable for making furniture, then you should worry about high-quality ventilation in advance. Natural is sometimes not enough (besides, it depends on the change in wind direction and pressure), and an exhaust hood is installed.
Arguments that if you use protective equipment, then you can work in a closed space, do not stand up to scrutiny. Wood dust will immediately settle on everything, including the sample with which some actions are performed. Neither an accurate cut along the line, nor a high-quality surface treatment of wood (not to mention the impregnation and finish coating with a paint and varnish composition) can not be obtained.
It is impossible not to take into account the fact that many preparations used for wood processing contain toxic components. For example, varnishes, paints, impregnations, if they are not natural, then harmful fumes are guaranteed.
Tools
Their set depends on the extent to which it is planned to “ennoble” a simple wood structure, what shape to give it and a number of other nuances. If the master does not claim the elegance of a wooden table, does not aim to achieve its originality, then the usual carpentry set will be enough.
For more “fine” work in the process of making a table of unusual shapes, external design, special devices will be needed.
El / jigsaw. With a conventional saw, it will not work to make an inclined vertical cut, accurately maintaining the angle. The canvas will “play”, and therefore the quality of the work will be extremely low. The electric jigsaw is universal in use, besides it gives high accuracy in cutting wood or cuts in it.
Many of the listed fixtures can be rented if furniture making is not a hobby, but a necessity.
Impregnation and other compounds
Rotting protection:
- Working off engine oil is an effective, moreover, free tool. But not for dinner tables.
- Linseed oil. A natural and effective product that penetrates deep into the wood structure and protects it from mold and mildew. Minus - high cost. But if the table is intended for eating - a great option. The drug has no color, therefore, after processing the lumber, it does not leave any traces in the form of darkening, stains, streaks, unlike mining.
- The emulsion is water-polymer. It is characterized by duration of action and safety for health.
- Acrylic varnishes. They practically replaced their predecessors of the "NC" category, as they are harmless and in many respects better than compounds that are diluted with solvents.
- PVA, bone glue and a number of others. More detailed information about carpentry compositions -.
To decorate a tree:
- Colorless varnishes are used not only to protect the material from moisture. With their help, you can save the texture of the tree, shade it.
- Wood stains.
- Varnishes with a coloring effect (toning).
- Paints (but only for wood!).
- Putties.
Using a colorless varnish and pigments, you can make a coloring composition, and any shade. It is enough just to correctly determine the proportion of components. This is easy to do by experimenting with mixing and applying a sample to a rejected board. This will allow you to choose an acceptable tone. More than expedient, since it is not always possible to buy exactly what you need on the market.
Fasteners
All tips for assembling a wooden table with nails (the argument is simple, fast and cheap) are best ignored. The reasons are as follows:
- A nail easily pricks a dry tree (and this is exactly what is taken; more on that below).
- Correctly directing his leg (strictly vertically) is quite difficult. In some cases, it is even more difficult to redo your oversight.
- A tree, even the most protected from rot, eventually succumbs to it. The maintainability of a table knocked down with nails is extremely low. Practice shows that it is rarely possible to remove such fasteners without damaging adjacent structural parts. As a result, instead of the planned replacement of one element, 2 - 3 will have to be changed.
- When assembling a wooden table, if one glue is not enough, you should use only self-tapping screws.
- Sometimes its individual parts (at the joints) require reinforcement. It is not advisable to strengthen the strength with a hardware with a thicker and longer leg. The reason is the same - the probability of splitting the tree. For these purposes, metal strips, brackets, corners are used.
Features of the choice of wood
Someone focuses on the cost of lumber, another is important for the resistance of the tree to decay, for the third - its texture. What can you recommend to a novice furniture maker? Do not use for the table, unless it is intended to be installed somewhere in the back room or garage, the same type of wood. This is exactly what many novice "craftsmen" do, picking up the same type of boards and bars from what is left of the construction or repair and gathering dust in the barn.
When making a wooden table for living quarters, verandas, and so on, you need to take into account the properties of individual species. Naturally, if there is not enough experience in assembling furniture, you should pay attention to cheaper wood. The first table (chair, stool) in life is just a kind of training in manufacturing, gaining experience.
Tabletop. Here in the first place - strength and minimal absorption of moisture. It is on this part of the table that something is constantly spilled. The best choice is pine, larch, oak (although the latter is more expensive). Thickness - at least 3 cm.If the dimensions of the countertop are small, then wood-based slab products (OSV and the like) can be used. But only with lamination to prevent swelling of the material when liquid enters the surface of the table. For example, LDSP.
In the furniture industry, low-grade lumber is not used. This is not economically feasible, since pre-treatment of wood increases the duration of the production cycle. But in the manufacture of something, wood of lower grades, substandard - just right. The same pallets left after using stacks of foam blocks or bricks.
And not just because it's free or relatively cheap. Many of the disadvantages of such wood with a competent approach can be turned into pluses. For example, after coating with a colorless varnish, the countertop acquires a unique original look.
The main thing is that the boards do not have obvious defects in the form of rot, cracks, falling knots and wormholes.
If pine is chosen for the countertop (this also applies to many other conifers), then you need to pay attention to the location of the annual rings. These arcs are called humpbacks. The cuts of the boards show how they are oriented, and this is taken into account in the process of laying them in a row. Samples obtained by the tangential sawing method are arranged in alternation (pink down, the next one up); radial cutting - the same way (with arcs in the same direction). The nuance is insignificant, but it is the observance of this recommendation that eliminates the risk of warping and splitting of the boards.
For furniture, if you think about its durability, you should take only dry lumber. During the drying of the wood, it will deform; this is a natural process, and its consequences in the form of twisting, warping, bending are inevitable. Such a table will quickly begin to warp, and you will have to deal with its repair. And here you need to decide whether to purchase high-dry wood or rid it of moisture yourself. The first option is simpler, but such a tree is more expensive. The second will cost less, but there are a number of purely technical difficulties.
- Firstly, it is necessary to ensure a stable temperature regime in the place where the blanks are stored. Changes in its value will lead to uneven evaporation of moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the tree.
- Secondly, good ventilation must be organized.
- Thirdly, and, perhaps, this is the most unpleasant moment - you will have to wait, up to about six months, depending on the initial moisture content of the tree. But this is not a guarantee that the result will be expected; Even this takes practice.
This once again confirms the idea that when starting to make wood furniture for the first time, one should focus on the simplest table for household needs from cheap lumber, without pretensions to its sophistication and originality of design. For example, for a barn, garage and the like.
Variants and schemes of wooden tables
It should be noted right away that any work related to the design and self-assembly is a creative process. There are no stereotypes in this business, so you can only take the model you like as a basis, and everything else - linear parameters, shape, manufacturing specifics - depends on the purpose of the product and your own imagination. Here are just a few examples of what wooden tables can be. For example, for summer cottages, small utility rooms, it is worth choosing structures whose geometry is easily changed - folding, hiking, hanging, garden, level, and so on.
Tables that are supposed to be used for eating, playing games, as coffee tables for installation in living rooms for a specific purpose, are made stationary, that is, of unchanging size. These assemblies are more “solid”, since all articulated parts are fixed rigidly; no articulated joints.
Features of the assembly of wooden tables
If a person undertakes to make something, then he knows how to use the tool, read the drawings and work with lumber. Such a home master does not need to be taught the basics of carpentry. But a number of nuances in the manufacture of a wooden table will be useful to note. These notes will only help in the process of work.
Let's start with the types of connections. There are quite a few of them, but for a table that is assembled with your own hands, the following are quite enough.
On dowels
In this case, the parts are fastened by landing on the adhesive composition (Fig. 1 - 3).
The nuance is that for the manufacture of "cylinders" that are inserted into pre-drilled "channels", a tree of a denser structure is taken than the elements of the table. This is what ensures the strength of the connections. Before installing them, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels and holes.
These round sticks are commercially available, in any furniture store, in several sizes. To grind them, even with a carpentry machine, is a waste of time. It is not recommended to purchase plastic dowels for the table; they are used for collapsible connections. For example, frame furniture (walls, multi-level racks, etc.).
Nails should not be used to fix table elements (Fig. 4). Metal and wood differ in the degree of thermal expansion. Such a connection will not last long - a “shat” will begin, especially if the table is intended for installation on the territory or in an unheated room.
On the tsargs
It is advisable to make such connections if the table has to be either periodically disassembled, or without it it cannot be moved through the doorway. Although not all kings involve the dismantling of the structure. The most practiced options are shown in the figures.
Bolted
Such connections are mainly used for garden or outbuilding furniture; for utility tables. An example is shown in the figure.
The nuance of working with fasteners
In order for the self-tapping screw to be easily screwed in and “go” in the right direction, a hole is first made at the point of its installation with a drill, with a diameter slightly smaller than the leg of the fastener. The main thing is to maintain the coincidence of the center lines, that is, to prevent skew. In this case, for the "landing" of the self-tapping screw, you can do without a screwdriver.
Features of wood processing
Everyone knows that a planer is used first, an abrasive with a large grain, and then a fine one. But sometimes it turns out that the last stage, grinding, has to be done repeatedly. Here much depends on the type of wood and the degree of its drying. After applying the first layer of varnish, the villi may “stand up”. Nothing wrong with that. You should wait for the workpiece to dry and repeat its processing with an abrasive. The work is painstaking and takes time. But it is by this technique that you can bring the "problem" wood to the ideal "smoothness".
To eliminate the risk of injury to a person, all edges, corners of the table should be slightly rounded.
Features of the exterior
- Minor defects in the form of cracks, chips are eliminated with a putty composition.
- After sanding, all wood dust must be removed. In this case, an ordinary household vacuum cleaner with an appropriate nozzle will help out. After such cleaning, it is recommended to wipe the entire table with a slightly damp cloth, let it dry and repeat the cleaning of the remaining dust. After that, you can safely proceed to applying stain or varnish - there will be no “pellets” on the tree.
- You can give originality to the table not only with curly cutouts, an unusual shape of the tabletop or legs, a combination of textures of different species, and so on. One of the good options is art painting.
And finally. Work on the independent manufacture of something from wood (the same table) is just the initial stage in mastering the skill of the “assembly designer”. Having worked out the technologies and techniques on wood, having acquired the necessary skills, it is enough just to switch to other materials - metal, plastic, glass. So the benefits of a wooden table made according to even the simplest drawing (apart from the pleasure of working and saving money) are obvious - not wasted time.
