Bur is useful and essential tool, especially if you have a cottage or a personal plot.
With it, you can easily drill a deep hole in the ground with perfectly even walls. This type of pit is needed in order to be able to cement a pipe in it, which will serve as a support for any type of structure. The best-known examples of structures are the shed, gazebo, fence, or vine support.
Now we will tell you how you can make a drill for a summer residence with your own hands.
To do this, you will need such materials and tools.
Three pieces of metal pipes. The length of two of them should be five hundred millimeters, and the third four hundred millimeters. At the same time, they should be forty millimeters in diameter and have a wall thickness of no more than three and a half millimeters.
Sharpen the lower end of the rod at an angle of thirty degrees so that it becomes sharp.
If you want the tool to drill well in hard packed soil, you can weld a metal drill to its end with a welding machine.
Attach the handle to the other end in such a way that it is held firmly, but at the same time it can be easily removed. You can fix the handle using a sleeve. If necessary, you can turn more bushings and parts for the base than it should be, so that there is a margin. Also, using more parts of the base, you can lengthen the tool if it becomes necessary to drill a deeper hole.
On the last step paint our product and let it dry.
- Metal pipe for rack.
- Screw. This is the part of the product that will be directly used for drilling.
- Metal handle.
- Welding machine and electrodes to it.
- Lathe for turning parts.
- Sandpaper circle.
- Drill and a drill for metal to it.
- High strength steel sheet.
- Part of a pipe for gas.
- Rod made of metal. Its diameter should be sixteen millimeters.
- Bulgarian and a cutting wheel for metal to it.
- Welding.
- Clamps for welding.
- A die of the same diameter as the base.
- Plate holder.
- A pair of gas keys.
- Vice mounted on a solid surface.
- Clamp for welding.
- The drill is electric.
Show all
Next method
You will need
Bulgarian and two discs for cutting. One of them should be one hundred and fifty millimeters in diameter, and the second one hundred millimeters.
Bolt and nut with a section of twenty millimeters.
A drill that has a diameter of twenty millimeters. You will also need a tip that is seventy millimeters long.
Welding machine and electrodes for it.
Take a piece of metal pipe that is five hundred millimeters long and flatten either side a little with a vise.
Now you have to weld the oval side to the middle of the smaller pipe. It will act as a handle for a drill that you can make yourself.
Now weld a nut to the bottom of the long pipe.
After that, weld a bolt and a tip to the remaining pipe from different sides. This way you can connect both pipes using a thread.
Both disks for the grinder are cut into two parts.
Now you weld the parts of a hundred-millimeter disk to each other, while the welding angle should be forty degrees. Then the resulting product is welded to the edge of a five-hundred-millimeter pipe directly to the tip.
Two parts of the other disk are welded in the same way, only above the first. The gap between them should be about ten centimeters. The photo below shows everything clearly.
After the work done, you will have two parts that can be connected together.
Now you can twist both crafts that you managed to do with your own hands. As a result, you will receive a drill.
Now you can test the product. If you did everything right, you can drill a hole of this kind.
As you can see, it turned out to be deep and with almost perfectly even walls.
After a successful test, you need to do it yourself so that this drill will last you as long as possible. To do this, completely clear it of lumps of earth and paint it with any color.
How to make a drill using one disk?
Materials and tools
How to make such a drill with your own hands?
First, take a steel sheet and cut out circles from it. different diameters. Different sizes need to be cut in order to dig holes of different diameters. Make the size of each circle five millimeters larger than the width of the intended hole.
Drill holes exactly in the center of each workpiece. In diameter, each hole should be one millimeter larger than the prepared metal rod has. It will serve as the basis for our product.
Using lathe, grind steel bushings in which you drill two holes. You cut threads in them. After that, you can attach our circles to the base. different size using bolts.
On round parts, make cuts using a cutting wheel. Now the ends of the cuts need to be stretched into different sides to make a screw. Sharpen the cutting edges of the edges with an emery wheel at an angle of approximately sixty degrees. The blade is ready.
On the rod, you need to make cuts with a depth of three millimeters using a grinder and a cutting wheel.
Thus, you were able to make a drill with your own hands.
Another way
What will you need
Let's show visual diagram products.
Since it is very difficult to make a worm-type cutting edge, we will consider another option.
We will replace the stepped auger with two pre-rippers. They need to be welded to the base of the product. In this case, it is necessary that the diameter gradually increase. Thanks to this, you will distribute the resistance of the soil over the resulting steps and reduce the effort expended when drilling.
In this case, the first knife will crush the hard ground, and the second will cut the rock and feed it to the top, gradually sinking deeper. Do not forget to periodically pull out the drill and shake off the earth from it.
Now sharpen cutting edges. Weld pre-rippers to the base of the rod, and already attach the blades to them.
To the other end of the product, weld a connecting bolt or cut a thread.
Screw the coupling onto the thread and weld it to the base.
Now cut off a piece of pipe and attach it to the drill. This will be our pen.
Now just paint the tool.
Owners summer cottages or private houses know firsthand that there is always a need to build, plant or dig something. In many of these cases earthworks are needed. They require a lot of time and labor, but they can be simplified and accelerated if a hand drill is used instead of a shovel to earthworks.
Work with a garden drill
There are many models of this popular tool in specialized stores and markets, but choosing a really high-quality manual earthen drill is not so easy. The main problem with many factory models of hand-held earth drills is the use of too “soft” metal for their manufacture in order to reduce the cost of production. The solution can be to make it yourself.
Using a hand drill for the earth, you can perform a wide range of applied work in the household or in the country: construction, planting trees and shrubs, landscaping, landscaping and many others.
It makes it easy to do wells correct cylindrical shape . It is not difficult to maintain the same depth, which is extremely problematic to achieve when using a shovel.
Tool design
It consists of a steel rod with a pilot drill on one side, a knife and a handle. A small auger can supplement the knife or even fully perform its functions. It should be noted that the auger allows you to remove a larger amount of earth from the hole at a time, but requires a little more physical effort during operation. For drilling deep holes, a steel rod extension can be provided.
Materials for manufacturing
To make a manual garden drill yourself, you do not need a lot of materials and a large list of tools. Will need:
Of course, making a drill takes a lot of effort and energy, but at the same time it saves family budget and be completely confident in the quality of the device.
Sequence of work
In addition, during its production, you can gain skills that will be useful in the future for more complex tasks. So, the materials and tools are prepared, it's time to start manufacturing. The procedure is as follows:
Using a manual garden drill, it is necessary to periodically remove it from the hole and clean it from adhering earth and dirt. it will speed up and facilitate drilling work.
If the knives are not welded, but bolted to the rod (most often this is done to facilitate their subsequent sharpening), then after constant exposure to wet soil and abrasive particles, it is very difficult to unscrew them. Sometimes it's completely impossible.
To prevent this, you can put a rubber hose on the threaded part or heat shrink tubing. To always navigate how deep the hole is made, you can put a scale on the drill rod. For this purpose, using a needle file or paint, horizontal marks are made every 10 cm. For added convenience, they should be marked with numbers or paints should be used. different color. You can put garden hose tips on the handles or wrap the edges with electrical tape - it will become much more convenient to work.
A hand drill for the earth is often required when arranging a site or building a summer house. The tool is simply indispensable if you need to drill holes for fence posts, for a gazebo, installing arches or other agricultural work. The drill is manual and automatic.
Build your own hand drill
Varieties of Boers
For different construction works different types of drills are used . Each of them has a special design:
- Auger drill. Its peculiarity lies in the elongated cutting part. It is used for making holes for poles. Since the design is longer, it can be taken out much less often, so the work is done faster when compared with a garden drill.
- Garden. As a rule, these are 2 blades welded to opposite sides of the pipe. They are placed at different angles. Basically, the drill is used to make holes for planting. Hence the specific name "garden". But it can also be used when building gazebos, installing fence posts, etc.
- For TISE piles. It is somewhat reminiscent of a garden one, but additionally has a spatula that leans back at the bottom of the pit for expansion.
The easiest to make are garden twirls. The design may have varieties, depending on the soil with which this tool will work. This is the advantage of a self-made tool. It can be made according to your needs. The point is not even in the diameter of the blades themselves, but in the fact that they can be made removable, bolted, etc.
In this video, consider a homemade earthen drill:
Although the price of the simplest drills in stores is low, such tools position themselves as "universal". For light soil they will be useful, but on a harder one they are ineffective.
Self-production
Even without the practice of manufacturing such structures, it will not be difficult to make a garden and hand drill for the earth with your own hands. This is the simplest, but at the same time effective model.
Garden drill elements:
- Cutting part. As a rule, these are two blades in the shape of a semicircle, which are sharpened along the edges. One blade is fixed at an angle of 20-30 degrees. Second, with opposite side, also has an angle of inclination of 20-30 degrees, but in the other direction. For ease of use, the cutting parts can not be welded to the pipe, but bolted. Also, the design will be disassembled. If desired, you can make several pairs of blades with different diameters.
- Rod (pipe). It can be either round or profiled. Alternatively, you can use a crowbar, but it is heavy and difficult to work with. The length of the rod must be made 40-50 cm more than the required depth of the pit. If at the same time the length of the pipe is more than one and a half meters, then it will be more convenient to make a collapsible structure. This can be done from two parts of the pipe. One part should be slightly smaller in diameter than the second. The design will be reminiscent of fishing spinning (telescopic connection).
- A pen. For this element, a transverse pipe is often welded on top of the structure. The length of such a handle is from 40 to 60 cm.
- Tip-drill. It is located on the pipe and is a continuation of the structure under the blades. Responsible for centering the drill on early stages- the first loosens the ground, which facilitates the work process.
This is the basic equipment of a manual earthen drill. You can attach various gadgets to it.
Necessary materials
The pipe is the basis of the structure. The diameter should not exceed 5 cm. If you use a profiled pipe, then its cross section should be 20x20 or 30x30 cm.
Knives-blades can be made from various materials using:
- steel sheets 4 mm;
- cutting disc from a saw of the desired diameter.
The last option is more convenient and practical for production, since the cutting part is already ready. The disc must be cut in the middle and attached to the pipe. The side parts are also better to sharpen. So, the disc will cut the ground better when drilling.
The tip can be made different shapes. You can simply sharpen a metal rod and attach it to a pipe or make a spear-shaped tip from a strip of steel. And you can combine both options.
Blade attachment
First you need to decide on the type of attachment of the blades - removable or welded "tightly". If the drill is collapsible, then small metal shelves are welded on both sides of the pipe from below. They need to drill 2-3 holes for the bolts. They should be welded to the pipe at an angle of 20-30 degrees, each in its own direction, just like cutting blades.
In addition, the holes made in the shelves must be duplicated in the blades. Their diameter must be at least 10 mm. In the blades in the center, you will have to cut holes for the pipe. This must be done both when bolting, and with a monolithic version. If a saw blade is used, then there is already such a hole. It only needs to be adjusted to the diameter of the rod.
Use of sheet steel
To make a drill with your own hands using sheet steel, it is enough to cut out a template from paper under the blades, and a metal circle along it. A hole is drilled in the center into which the rod is inserted. Two parts are fastened by welding or bolts, depending on the chosen design.
The hole diameter should be slightly larger than the pipe diameter. It can be either round or square, if profiled is used. A spiral can be made in two ways - cut a circle from the edge to the center and unbend it in different directions (one up and the second down) or make a drill from two halves.
In the latter case, the metal circle is cut in half after making a hole and then fastened to the rod according to the chosen design model. In both the first and second versions, it is necessary to bend the edges at an angle of 20-30 degrees. The smaller the angle, the easier the work process will be. But with a large angle of inclination, the drilling process is much faster.
On hard ground, the blades can deform under heavy load. Therefore, to strengthen the tool, thick steel supports are welded. The blades bend due to the fact that the steel is not hardened. It is difficult to find a sheet of hardened steel, but even if there is such a material, then bend it under right angle Not sure it's going to happen.
Use an old saw blade to create a drill
Saw blade construction
Using an old saw blade to make a simple hand drill for earthworks - almost ideal. It is made of hardened steel, and it is strong, sharp and resilient. But it is impossible to straighten hardened steel, since it can crack at the slightest deformation. In this case, the disk is cut in half and attached to the rod at the desired angle using welding or bolts. If you use bolts for fastening, then you must first weld the shelves for fastening parts of the disk from the saw.
Such structures are characterized great performance and strength. In order for the drill to be even sharper, the edges (cut off side) are also sharpened. The semi-circular sides already have a good sharpening, which over time becomes sharper and more efficient when working.
garden drill modifications
For harder soils, a garden drill is useless. Therefore, the design can be modified. To do this, it is necessary to install several rows of cutting parts on the rod. Immediately after the tip, a blade of the smallest diameter is installed. Stepping back a few centimeters to the side, larger blades are mounted. There can be no more than 4 such rows. The diameter of the largest blade should not exceed 50 cm, otherwise it is very difficult to work.
If you need to make a do-it-yourself drill for poles, then this is ideal. The design is very light and easy to work with.
If it is necessary to make a hole for the poles, do not large diameter, then the work looks something like this: make a few turns with a drill, pull it out and throw out the earth stuck between the blades. But if you need to make deep holes, then in this way the work will take a long and hard time. Therefore, a container for collecting soil is welded on top of the structure. If you can’t come up with modifications on your own, then you can use the drawings.
Screw structures
Working with an auger drill is much more difficult than with a garden drill. This is due to the large number of turns, which have serious resistance. . But, as a rule, screws are used together with electric drives. and no manual drilling is required. Often they make wells of great depth, etc.
In order to make an auger drill, it is necessary to prepare several disks of the same diameter. The number of discs corresponds to the number of turns of the screw. You also need to make holes in the disks for the rod.
The disks are cut from the center to the edge, a spiral is made from each part, pulling one end up and the other down. Each part is welded to the pipe in turn. And also it is necessary to weld the round parts together.
Piling drill
The classic version of the drill for TISE is blades with a container for collecting earth. There is also a wider knife, which is necessary to form an expansion at the bottom of the pile. It is not very convenient to use such a home-made drill for personal purposes, since an additional folding knife interferes greatly.
In this regard, such structures are often made collapsible, where the folding knife can be dismantled. In general, it is recommended to use an ordinary garden drill for making piles for personal purposes, and for expansion, make a separate knife with a container for collecting earth. The job is much easier in this case.
For this design, a cut from a shovel is used as a knife., and a container for collecting land can be made from a can of herring. The knife is fixed on the levers, and when lowered along the pile, it is in the uppermost position, as it is stretched with a cable. When the bottom is reached, the cable relaxes and the knife falls on the pile walls, starting to remove the earth and form an extension of the desired size.
As an alternative, a dredger can also be made from an old propane tank. In order to reduce friction, the well is constantly poured with water. You can work with such a tool on hard ground.
Alternative options for rotaries
For the purpose of planting vegetation, produce complex structure, even the simplest garden drill does not make sense. To do this, you can use a modernized shovel. It is necessary to prepare a stainless steel shovel and mark it for further modification.
A slit of 5-8 cm is made from the bottom and in the center of the shovel. Each edge is folded in the opposite direction to each other. The sides of the shovel are also slightly bent, being a logical continuation of the lower blades.
If the ground is soft, then the usual rotation will be ineffective. For this, a mechanism with an elongated cutting part is used. It resembles a kind of glass with longitudinal slots in which hardened steel blades are fixed.
Making a hand drill for earthworks for personal use is easy. You just need to be able to use welding, a drill and other everyday construction tools many summer residents, as well as a little understanding of the drawings.
A drill is a pointed metal rod with blades attached around the perimeter. The tool is screwed into the ground like a self-tapping screw or a corkscrew, and is pulled back with effort, but without turning. The earth remaining on the blades rises along with the drill, and a hole with smooth edges is formed in the ground. Find out what manual and mechanical varieties exist, differing in blade designs and how they work. Make a simple device with your own hands.
A drill is used instead of a shovel when it is necessary to dig a rounded hole of an exact diameter. In a summer cottage, an automatic or manual earthwork drill will come in handy if you plan to:
- Mount the columnar foundation for the house.
- Dig holes for planting trees and shrubs.
- Loosen the soil around already growing plantations.
- Drilling the ground to install a fence.
- dig compost pit or well, straight or inclined tunnel.
Earthmoving electric model
The design of a garden drill differs from industrial tools and depends on the purpose. Key parameters: the number and diameter of the blades, as well as the length of the rod. Advantages garden option before the industrial one - ease, ease of use, the ability to make it yourself.
Drilling with sheet steel tools
Types of drilling devices - mechanical and manual
Mechanized earth drills work independently from gasoline or electric motor, or paired with earth technology such as tractor rods. Manual models are compact and easy to manufacture.
garden model
Classification by engine type
There are two types of drills according to the type of engine:
- petrol;
- electric.
A gasoline drill for the earth is used when planting trees, constructing fences and protective structures. It is powered by a gasoline engine and can be:
- wheeled - high power, bulky and heavy;
- manual - more compact, but less powerful.
Wheeled gas drill
How a petrol drill works:
- After starting, the engine warms up at idle for three minutes.
- Then, when the button is pressed, an auger is launched through a mechanical or hydraulic transmission - the “drill” of the tool.
- After the engine stops, the auger continues to rotate by inertia and smoothly stops.
Modern drilling tools are equipped with safety locks and the possibility of an emergency stop when the rod collides with impenetrable soil or a solid object.
An electric drill is used when it is necessary to dig a well in a site or loosen the soil. The principle of operation of the unit is the same as that of a gasoline one, but the engine is powered by the mains and does not require warming up.
Benefits of powered tools:
- high drilling speed;
- the possibility of changing nozzles;
- opportunity to work with different types soil and even ice.
Drilling tool with electric motor
Disadvantages of automatic devices:
- for manual models – big weight;
- for wheeled models - large dimensions;
- the need for a source of power or fuel to operate.
Differences in types of nozzles and blades
The nozzle of the drilling rig can be screw or disk.
An auger is a rod with a helical blade attached along it. The tool is able to dig a deep hole of small diameter. It is not uncommon for owners to country houses use this particular drill for pillars or piles when you need to dig deep into the foundations, as well as when landscaping the site.
Advantages of the unit with auger:
- ease of screwing;
- automatic removal of the earth layer from the surface of the blade.
Auger blade
Flaws:
- inability to drill a large diameter hole manually;
- the complexity of the design for making your own hands.
Disc blade
Disc drill - a rod with a sharp end and attached 20 cm from the end of the halves of a sharpened disk about 2 mm thick. The elements are welded or bolted opposite each other at an angle of 25 degrees. The angle is observed so that the blades cut into the ground when the drill is screwed in, and at the exit the excess earth is taken out. The blades are mounted on the rod in one or more rows, depending on the density of the soil.
Manual industrial and garden drills
Garden hand drill can also be disc or auger. Its difference from the automatic one is that the rod with the blade is not connected to the engine, and the user sets the movement by turning the handle.
Percussion-rope installation for wells
Other types of manual drilling devices:
- Shock-rope installation. because of large sizes it is used only in construction and for drilling wells. Do not use in suburban areas. The drill is a pipe fixed in a tripod on a rafter system. With the help of a shock rod, the pipe is set in motion and hits the ground, loosening the soil and penetrating deep.
- Crown instrument. Pipe with a toothed crown fixed on the lower base durable metal. Requires an additional drilling tool and is not used in household.
- Chisel chisel. Used for drilling dry and hard soils - drilling is carried out shock method while rotating the tool by 10 degrees.
- Spoon manual drill with a metal cylinder attached to the rod. The cylinder is cut vertically along the top and spirally - at the bottom. The parts of the cylinder are offset from each other, the lower edges are sharply sharpened. When screwed into the ground, the tool is filled with soil, and then it is taken out and cleaned. Only suitable for working with wet and clay soil that gets stuck inside the "spoon". It is good to use a spoon hand drill for poles under the chain-link - the holes are narrow and deep. The optimal length of the rod is 70-80 cm.
spoon model
You can make a hand drill for the earth with your own hands with minimal skills of a locksmith and welder. The main thing is to make a comfortable handle and calculate the design of the blade.
How to make a drilling tool at home
To make a manual earth drill with your own hands, select the design of the tool and the type of blade. Usually, a T-shaped profile is made of two metal rods, and cutting elements are attached to the vertical one.
Disc drilling tool - the easiest to manufacture. You will need a grinder with cutting wheels, welding machine, hammer, sandpaper and pliers.
Scheme of a drill with a disk blade
- metal pipe or fittings 1.5 m long for the stem - the vertical part of the drill;
- fittings 40 cm long for the handle;
- disk circular saw 2-3 mm thick for blades;
- drill with a diameter of 15 mm for a pointed tip.
Disc blade drawing
How to make a drill disk type:
- Take a circular saw blade and cut it in half with a grinder. Choose the diameter of the disc depending on the desired size of the hole - on average, 15 cm. Grind the blades “under zero” so as not to cut yourself during work.
- Weld two pieces of reinforcement - the handle and the stem, so that you get a T-shaped profile. Weld a drill to the end of the rod, and blades 5 cm higher. Make sure that the angle between them is 25 degrees.
- Sharpen the blades with an abrasive wheel grinder. You can carefully "walk" along the drill.
Circular saw - base
You can make a disc tool with removable blades if needed. To do this, instead of the blades themselves, weld metal pads to the rod at the right angle, and fasten the cutting elements with bolts. When needed, you can replace them with blades of a different diameter.
Auger drill for narrow holes
Auger tools are more difficult to use than disc tools due to more coils that form a significant resistance. But narrow holes can be dug manually only with its help. To make a screw hole drill with your own hands, prepare the materials:
- fittings for the stem - 1.5 m long (you can adjust for growth);
- profile pipe for a handle 40-50 cm long;
- several metal discs of the same thickness (about 2 mm) and diameter - the number of discs is equal to the number of turns of the screw.
Discs welded together
How to make a homemade pole drill:
- Cut a hole in the center of each disc with a diameter equal to the diameter stock.
- Take the first disk and cut out a small sector from the resulting circle. Repeat on all drives.
- Weld the discs together so that you get a spiral spring - an auger. Weld rings to the ends of the auger.
- Install the stem rod inside the central hole of the "spring" and stretch it along the rings.
- Weld the top and bottom edges of the auger to the rod.
- Boil the auger along its entire length.
- Attach the handle to the stem by welding or bolting.
- Sharpen the lower part of the reinforcement with an abrasive wheel at an angle of 25 degrees.
Screw stretched around the rod
Garden shovel drill
If you plan to loosen soft and loose soil, make a drill from an ordinary shovel. Sequencing:
- Take a shovel made of quality steel and make markings on the canvas in accordance with the drawing.
- Cut the bottom of the blade along the markings and bend the edges in different directions: one forward and the other back.
- The petals of the canvas remaining below, bend up - also, in different directions.
Drawing markings on a shovel
The drilling device is ready, it can be used for planting plants in the garden or on garden beds.
If you want to make a garden drill with your own hands - drawings and photos can give interesting idea. Materials are often what is lying around in a barn or garage. Study several models and choose the one that is easier to manufacture or most suitable for the tasks.
If a own experience not enough, you can always show the drawing to a more experienced neighbor and get to work together.
How to Modify a Handheld Drill
Homemade drill can be modified to make it work more efficiently. Possible improvements:
- Interchangeable cutters or blades. To drill holes of different diameters with one tool, make a base with mounting pads welded to the rod at an angle of 25 degrees. Drill two holes in them for the bolts with which you will fasten the blades. Install the bolts with the thread up so that they do not interfere with drilling.
- Pointed drill tip. Cut out a 10x2 cm plate from a sheet of metal. On one side, grind it to a cone-shaped state with a grinder and weld it to the end of the rod instead of a drill.
- Small blades between the tip of the drill and large ones. Add them by welding 8x3 cm metal plates right after the tip.
- Curved disk from a circular saw instead of halves. Take one disk and cut it along the radius to the middle. Bend the metal in different directions and weld it like a screw.
Result manual drilling
How to care for drilling equipment
Craft hand device for drilling at home is not difficult, but for it to serve long years, maintenance is required. Rules for keeping a drill on the farm:
- Immediately after purchase or manufacture, coat the blade and stem with an anti-rust compound to prevent rust formation. The second option is to paint the product with metal paint.
- Before use, check the sharpness of the blade and, if necessary, sharpen it with a bar or sandpaper.
- Loosen before drilling upper layer land with a shovel.
- Having screwed the tool in to the last turn, carefully pull it out - do not allow the blades to sag from an excess of earth.
- After work, clean the blades and stem from adhering earth.
- Repair any damage promptly.
Video: Tool for digging holes
When working with a drilling rig of any type, make sure that the soil around the edges of the hole does not crumble. If necessary, pour water inside and continue the process. Properly made drill, combined with a proven application technique, is the key to success in arranging the site.
For owners of personal plots, a garden drill is an essential tool. Wells of different depths are made with a circle. It is far from possible to drill the soil everywhere - where there is rocky soil with large inclusions hard rock, the drill cannot be used. In soft soils, a do-it-yourself hand-made earth drill effectively copes with excavation of a fairly large depth.
The erection of fences, supports for greenhouses, foundations of small buildings is carried out with the help of a dredger. In places where there is no central water supply, hand drill reach the aquifer. Homemade tools develop cavities in the ground for the construction of reinforced concrete piles. The dug wells are filled with reinforcement and liquid concrete, receiving columnar wells for structures on a personal plot.
Design
Many options for home-made hand tool designs are published in the media. They are united by one idea - to excavate a certain diameter and depth using physical strength person.
A hand drill consists of several main parts:
- holder (handle);
- shaft (rod);
- extension cords;
- cutting head (screw);
- scrap (peak).
Holder
The handle of the tool is a power lever, which, with the help of the hands of the worker, communicates rotary motion through the shaft to the cutting body of the drill. The steel holder is made of the same diameter as the shaft pipe. It usually looks like a "T". The handle is welded perpendicular to the bar. There are models where the handle is attached coaxially to the shaft with several bends. Tubes are put on the vertical parts of the holder so that the hands of the worker are not subjected to friction of the handle.
Shaft
The bar is made from water pipe. The rod diameter is from ½ to 1 inch. Making the shaft thicker does not make sense - it will require more effort to rotate the drill. A holder is welded on one end of the axis, and on the other side a cutting head is attached, ending in a pointed drill (spike).
Extension cords
Additional shaft sections allow you to increase the depth of the cutting head up to 10–15 m. The sections are equipped with screw connections. The length of the shaft is increased by installing additional sections of the rod.
cutting head
The main working body of the drill is designed to loosen the soil and push it up. The planes of the blades, cutting off the layers of soil, accumulate earth on their surface. The soil is removed at the next pull of the device from the well to the surface.
Scrap
The shaft guide can be made in the form large drill or a sharpened blade. The peak enters strictly vertically into the ground, thereby fixing the direction of the passage of the drill. The scrap produces a preliminary loosening of the soil in the center of the well, which makes it easier for the cutters to cut the soil layer.
The design of the yamobur may be somewhat different, equipped with additional devices- this does not change the structure of the instrument.
Popular homemade drill designs
Of the entire mass of homemade products, one can single out the most popular models Boers:
- Bladed.
- Screw.
- Spoon.
- Shock.
- Shovel-drill.
- Bur TISE.
vane
The design of the cutting block of the bladed hole drill consists of two blades welded to the shaft, the edges of the planes of which are separated from each other by an angle of 300.
In order to make a yamobur with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:
Tools
- electric welding machine;
- corner machine;
- electric drill;
- ticks;
- roulette;
- a hammer;
- compass;
- vise;
- whetstone.
materials
- inch steel pipe;
- steel sheet;
- inch couplings;
- inch nuts;
- old drill ø 30 mm or steel strip;
- welding electrodes.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling a bladed drill
Having prepared tools and materials, perform the following steps:
- An abrasive wheel cuts the pipe into segments 400 mm and 1200 mm long.
- A circle ø 300 mm is drawn on a metal sheet with a compass.
- The circle is cut out with an angle grinder.
- A hole is drilled in the center of the circle, which is then bored to ø 33.5 mm.
- The circle is put on a shaft (pipe 1200 mm long) at a distance of 50 mm from the lower end of the rod.
- The disk is welded to the shaft.
- An angle machine cuts the disk into two halves.
- The shaft is clamped in a vice and the edges of the circle are bred with tongs at an angle of 300.
- I sharpen the edges of the disk on a grinder.
- The middle of the pipe, 400 mm long, is welded to the upper end of the rod.
- If there is no old drill suitable diameter, take a steel strip 50 x 30 x 3 mm.
- One end of the strip is sharpened in the form of a peak, and the other side is welded to the bottom of the shaft.
- If it is required to drill wells with a depth of 2 meters or more, extension cords are prepared from pipe segments 1200 mm long.
- A water coupling is welded to one side of the segment so that half internal thread was free.
- At the other end of the segment, a thread is cut. It is better not to do this yourself, but to order work from a turner.
- A nut is put on and welded onto the pipe so that the thread remains outside.
- I cut the drill shaft in the middle, and also arrange threaded connections.
In the manufacture of another version of the bladed drill, they go in a simpler way. take saw blade from a circular saw and cut it in half. Two parts of the disk are welded with a 300 blade spacing.
The drill will do its job much more efficiently thanks to the sharp serrated edges of the cutters.
Auger
There is a sample auger in every kitchen. This is the internal screw in any meat grinder. An auger drill is also arranged. The cutting head is a stretched helix of solid section. The screw may consist of 2 or more turns. The design of the cutting block has a greater performance than the bladed model.
circles out steel sheet cut to the center. The edges are bent at an angle of 300. Then the cut discs are welded into a single spiral, the turns are welded to the shaft.
spoon
A drill spoon is used to develop soft soils. The principle of operation of the spoon device is based on the accumulation of worked-out soil in the cylindrical body of the device. A spoon drill is made from a thick-walled pipe.
What will be its diameter, such will be the diameter of the well. The spoon during the rotation of the shaft accumulates in itself the output, which is knocked out of the cylinder during the next extraction of the device from the well.
To manufacture the device, you will need a set of locksmith tools and an electric welding machine.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling a spoon drill:
- A longitudinal cut is made in the pipe with an oval top and bottom.
- The edges of the cut are sharpened.
- The upper and lower openings of the pipe are welded with circles of steel.
- The top of the pipe is welded to the rod.
- The axes of the shaft and the spoon should be shifted by 1 - 1.5 cm relative to each other. This is necessary so that during rotation the spoon performs a rowing motion.
- A thick drill or a pike is welded to the bottom plug, as in the previous version of the drill.
- The split shaft is made with threaded connections(see paddle drill).
- Also make additional sections of the rod.
- All cutting surfaces must be hardened - this will ensure long term drill service.
Shock
The type of construction is used only for the development of wells in soft soil. The principle of operation of the drill is that a sleeve from a pipe with sharpened edges is driven into the soil by impact force or under its own weight.
The captured soil is compacted in the body of the sleeve. The soil is then knocked out of the pipe and work continues until the desired depth of the well is reached. The drilling method is used to obtain a shallow depth working.
Step-by-step instructions for making an impact drill
- A piece of pipe is sharpened on one side.
- Another hole is tightly welded with a circle of steel.
- A loop is welded to the top of the sleeve.
- Above the site of the future well, a tripod made of a metal profile or a wooden beam is installed.
- A cable block is attached to the top of the tripod.
- Near the structure, a horizontal drum with a cable is installed on supports.
- The end of the cable is led through the block and connected to the loop of the shock sleeve.
Rotating the handle of the drum, the sleeve is raised to the maximum height. The released handle creates a condition for the sleeve to fall into the well. The operation is repeated until the desired working depth is reached.
Shovel-drill
In the garden business, a shovel-drill brings significant benefits. Such a device is convenient to use for the device seats under various saplings of trees and plants.
The shovel is cut with scissors for metal in several places - to form blades. The incised planes are bent in the right direction to obtain a weather vane design.
Bur TISE
A special type of drilling device is TISE drills. The abbreviation TISE stands for "Technology individual construction and Ecology. The design was invented by the Soviet engineer Yakovlev R.N.
The drill is intended for the development of cavities in the ground - for the subsequent formation of monolithic columnar foundations with an expanded base.
The TISE drill is equipped with a wide soil receiver; worked-out soil with small stone inclusions accumulates in it. When the drill reaches the bottom of the well, a folding blade is switched on, which, as it lowers, expands the side surface of the working.
Making a TISE drill with your own hands
- Along the entire length of the rod and additional sections are welded metal tubes small diameter for the passage of the cable.
- A hinge is welded to the bar above the cutting blade, to which the folding blade is attached.
- Closer to the edge of the blade, a loop is welded into which the cable is inserted. It is removed from the guide tube.
- The cable at the top ends with a loop, the size for a worker's hand to grip, or a special lever is made.
- As the base of the well expands, the cable is gradually released.
- A ground receiver rim made of steel strip is installed around the blades.
- After the expansion of the base column foundation, the drill extracts and removes the soil from the drive.
Conclusion
In the manufacture of a hand drill, the masters proceed from their experience, the availability of this or that equipment, materials, the characteristics of the soil base and the need for the size and depth of the wells. Anyway, homemade device It will be much cheaper than purchasing a factory product.
