Characteristics and features of installation of composite tiles. Installation of composite tiles - advantages of the material How to properly lay composite tiles

Composite tiles are lightweight, practical and beautiful material. Self-installation of a composite roof is much easier than laying slate or corrugated sheets. Laying possible on pitched roofs with an inclination angle of 12ᵒ or more.

In addition to SNiP II-26-76 dated May 20, 2011, manufacturers have developed auxiliary instructions with recommendations and constructive solutions on installation. If the instructions on the material are followed, the manufacturer's warranty applies. How to do the installation yourself without voiding the warranty?

Installation of composite roofing

What is composite roofing and how to treat it

Composite tiles are a new and unique roofing material that combines practicality soft roof, strength and fire safety metal sheet, silent stone, resistance to impact external environment, like polymers, the beauty and luxury of a natural tile roof and an affordable price.

The first manufacturer of the material is the Belgian company Metrotile, its products are still considered the best today. Later, other companies joined the production, including the Russian brand Techonikol, whose products are sold under the Luxard brand.

Structure of composite tiles

The most dangerous stage for a composite before its use is transportation.

Of course, composite is a fairly mechanically strong material, but at the same time fragile and can crack or chip at the edges. Therefore, the tiles in the back of the car must be folded very carefully, placing each row with spacers (fabric, boards).

Warehousing requirements:

1. It is best to store tiles in the cold season in dry, indoor areas with an air temperature of at least 5ᵒC.
2. IN warm time this can be done under a canopy, that is, the composite is simply protected from the sun and atmospheric precipitation.
3. It is best to store the tiles on factory pallets, where they are already laid, but if you do it yourself, you will need wooden pallet and waterproof covering (tarpaulin, fiberglass).
4. Do not plant near storage areas open fire, this applies not only to fires, but also to welding, cutting metal with a grinder, and so on. Sparks hitting the surface of the composite will leave marks on it in the form of black melted dots.
5. You can use household cleaning products to clean the surface. detergents without abrasive additives.

Check the manufacturer's markings

Features and procedure for installing tiles

In order for the roofing material to properly cover the roof, it is necessary to properly prepare the rafter system. In addition, you need to correctly lay out the composition of the tiles.

Installation tools and accessories

To install composite tiles, you need hand and power tools:

• two hacksaws - for metal and wood;
• metal scissors;
• plumber's hammer;
• mounting gun;
• battery or electric drill;
• stationary circular saw or Bulgarian with trimming disc for metal;
• metal scissors;
• metric tape;
• riveter;
• large and small bending machine;
• pneumatic gun for 50 mm dowels;
• template 370 mm;
• manual or electric guillotine.

Manual and electric tool for installation

note that angle machine(Bulgarian) with grinding disc not recommended for use with roofing composites.

In addition to tiles, various accessories are used for covering, such as:

• semicircular ridge;
• semicircular triple skate;
• steel cover of a semicircular ridge;
• T-shaped ridge element made of PVC;
• y-shaped element for hip roofs with small slopes 15-30;
• y-shaped element for hip roofs with large slopes of 30-45;
• PVC tip for semicircular ridge;
• rib ridge with a real length of 1365 mm and a working length of 1265 mm;
• end strip;
• PVC plug for end strip left and right;
• single right end strip;
• adjoining the left and right sides;
• cornice, actual length 1365 mm, working length – 1265 mm;
• valley;
• apron.

Drawings and requirements for the rafter system

Rafter system and sheathing

Installation of the rafter system for composite roofing is carried out in accordance with SNiP II-26-76 dated May 20, 2011 of the Russian Federation. Wood is used to build rafters.

For correct assembly Local conditions are extremely important, that is, the amount of precipitation that falls in winter and the wind loads in a given area.

All this is taken into account when calculating the thickness of the beams:

• when creating a slope, push off from minimum value 12ᵒ. If the slope has a smaller angle, then lay waterproofing under the composite - atmospheric moisture will penetrate through the joints;
• as a rule, a smaller slope is only possible at separate areas complex (multi-slope) roof and is not allowed on total area;
• for waterproofing, use a film such as Yutakon, Nikofol and their analogues;
• Install the waterproofing film from the bottom up - this makes it easier to create overlaps. The overlap width must be at least 15 cm at vertical seams and 10 cm at horizontal seams;
• between the rafters (beams) create a sagging film of 1-2 cm;
• It is most convenient to do vertical joining (this increases the quality of the cut-off) along beams;
• fill the counter-lattice over the waterproofing cut-off - 50x50 mm bars are best suited for this;

• sheathing provides natural circulation air and eliminates the prerequisites for the formation of fungal mold;
• in the case when the slope of the slope is less than 20ᵒ, make a counter-lattice from a 50×75 mm board - this will increase the cross-section of the space for ventilation;
• in cases where a valley is used, a ventilation duct must be present between the thermal insulation layer and the cutoff.

Layout of sheathing around pipes

Installation of the rafter system

In the case where the pitch of the rafter legs does not exceed a meter (see Figure 4.1-2), use 50x50 mm bars. As the distance between the rafters increases, the vertical section increases, that is, in such cases, use a 50 mm thick board. Make sure that the installation moisture content of the wood does not exceed 20% of the dry weight of the material.

To install composite tiles, be sure to maintain a distance between the lower edges of the sheathing - it should be 370 mm. This parameter is important for the lock between composite joints. To make this easier, use a template as in Figure 4.2-1.

When using original Metrobond shingles, an unregulated distance to the ridge is obtained (option A in the figure). In this case, the optimal length of the rafter leg will be a multiple of 370, that is: A = 370 mm - this is exactly the length of a full sheet of Metrobond composite. In Figure 4.2-1 there is callout II, which shows the method of fastening semicircular ridge profiles - they are mounted on both sides of the ridge at a distance of 130 mm.

Installing composite on the cornice

Finishing the cornice with tiles

When studying the manual for installing a composite roof with your own hands, pay attention to the numbering of points and the drawing:

1. First of all, install the 40mm thick cornice board.
2. Securely attach it to the rafters with self-tapping screws or nails.
3. Attach the gutter brackets to this board as shown in Image 4.3-1. In the case where a drain is not provided (callout II), install a condensate drip, as in image 4.3-2. In this case, the consumption of the cornice will double.
4. Fix the cornice element from the edge of the cornice.
5. Fixation is carried out with four self-tapping screws or nails.
6. Attach the remaining elements with an overlap of 100 mm.

Installation of a drip tray on a cornice strip

Be sure to make sure that the eaves board is protected by a waterproofing film (it is important that it does not slip or tear):

• here there should be an unhindered discharge of condensate (moisture) into the gutter;
• the drip line from the eaves must fall into the drain;
• between the cornice and the film there is ventilation gap(marked with a dotted line on BK-1);
• ventilation ducts remain in the cornice lining (dotted line BK-2).

Roofing with composite tiles

Installation taking into account wind load (4.4-1-A)

Installation taking into account wind load (4.4-1-B)

Some nuances of composite installation:

1. Like any other covering, the composite is laid with an overlap from top to bottom, that is, the top panel always overlaps the bottom. It is much more convenient to start installation from the top, lifting each of the rows to place the lower panels under it. Fastening at the joint is carried out immediately through two panels.
2. It is very important to take into account the wind direction when fixing, as shown in Figures 4.4-1-A and 4.4-1-B. This load may be different in each location, therefore, install the composite in the direction of the wind so that it cannot undermine the edge of the panel. To give rigidity to the roof, lay the tiles in a checkerboard pattern with a lateral offset S. That is, more than three rows should not meet at the point of overlap.

Select the row offset S and overlap B, as in the figure, in accordance with the collection of the composite, the varieties of which are indicated in the table.

Dependence of fixation points on the composite brand

The locations of fixation – the points where nails should be driven in or screws should be tightened – depend on the collection of composite tiles. The top diagram shows an option with a left overlap (the left sheet overlaps the right one). Hammer nails (screws) at an angle of 45ᵒ to the surface of the rafter leg.

Installing roof tiles on a ridge

Covering the ridge with composite accessories

And a few more tips for installing skates:

• among ridge accessories there are ribbed and semicircular elements;
• apply the rib profile with an overlap of 100 mm, and the semicircular profile with an overlap of 45 mm;
• to prevent moisture from getting between the coating and the ridge, lay a sealant (it can be from another manufacturer);
• ridge elements are also used for pitched roofs;
• fastening of such a profile is done with nails or self-tapping screws wooden profile rafter system.

Video: Installation of composite tiles

Laying composite over existing pavement

Installation of composite tiles is possible not only on the sheathing of a new building, but also on the old roof covering, which significantly facilitates and reduces repair costs, and also allows you to add an insulating layer to the roof. The composite can be laid on seam, corrugated and soft roofing.

• In the case of a seam roof, make a counter-lattice with a pitch of 50 cm from a bar with a cross-section of 5 * 5 cm. Next, carry out the lathing according to the instructions above, not forgetting about the under-roof waterproofing.
• When laying the composite on a corrugated slate or profiled sheet, a block with a height greater than the wave is fixed into the recess of the wave along the roof and a counter-lattice is mounted in increments of 50 cm. The lathing is installed on the structure.
• For a soft roof, they also make a counter-lattice, as for slate, and install the lathing according to the instructions above.

As a result, we can conclude that the quality of installing a composite roof with your own hands or by a hired worker depends entirely on the attentiveness of the roofer. If all the instructions from the manufacturer and SNiP II-26-76 are followed, then such a coating will last a long time and will never leak.

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When choosing a roofing material, more and more developers are guided, first of all, by quality, reliability and technical characteristics coverage, not its cost. It has long been considered the norm to give preference to a material with higher performance indicators than with at a low cost. Thus, one of the leaders in the roofing market is roofing made from composite tiles, which will be discussed further.

If we talk about its composition, then the basis of its sheet is a combination of several layers made of various raw materials, including composite. Thanks to this successful combination Composite tiles, the installation of which will be described below, are a modern and high-quality product.

This material is capable of turning absolutely any roof into a unique and spectacular example of design thought. Of course, the installation of composite tiles also contributes to reliable protection the entire structure from any bad weather (precipitation, wind, high and low temperatures, etc.).

Advantages of composite tiles

This roofing has rightfully earned its popularity due to a number of advantages, among which the following are most often distinguished:

Despite the fact that the price of the coating is quite considerable and to some extent exceeds the cost of many other coatings, it is characterized by a unique appearance and most high quality.

If you wish, a detailed description of all the characteristics of composite tiles with photos and videos of the entire installation process can be easily found on our website.

What are composite shingles made of?

As already mentioned, the base of the composite tile sheet is represented by layers various materials. These include:

Basic standards for installation of composite tiles

When working with a material such as composite tiles, instructions for its installation require compliance with a number of requirements. So, immediately before laying it, you should make a sheathing with a pitch of 368 millimeters, while in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ridge, the beam should not be brought to the edge at a distance of 20 millimeters. It is very important to properly equip ventilation so that excess water comes out freely and the temperature inside the house is regulated normally. Sheets of tiles must be fastened according to the bottom-up principle, and bends and cuts must be made on each strip in order to prevent deformation of the material.

When deciding how to fasten a composite tile, its installation involves fastening the sheets with nails. It is important that after installation is completed, their caps are varnished and sprinkled with basalt-based crumbs. Laying should be accompanied by a slight overlap. During the work process, you should not deviate from the installation diagram proposed by the material manufacturer.

Variety of composite tiles

Today the construction market offers wide range composite tiles. There are many material options, differing both in shape and structure, and in color. This makes it possible to choose exactly the coating that will match a specific roof and can harmoniously fit into general interior home, becoming the basis for design work.

Popular types composite tiles:

1. Luxard.
2. MetroBond.
3. "Metro Classic"
4. MetroShake.
5. MetroRoman.
6. "Spany".
7. "Rowood".
8. "Cleo"
9. "RoserBond".

Each of these types of tiles has its own characteristics and functional characteristics, and their detailed descriptions with photos and videos, as well as reviews about them can be found on our website.

Pass-through elements for composite tiles

Such details are needed to ensure that the sealing of pipes, antennas and other roof elements is carried out normally (read also: " "). Their installation begins with special markings being applied to the panel surface, after which a hole is cut according to the template usually provided complete with the pass-through elements. Further along the perimeter of this hole should be laid rubber seal, the joints of which must be treated with sealant. The connection is strengthened using self-tapping screws that need to be screwed in diagonally. The end lugs must be adjusted to the profile of the roof panel, and the seal must be filled. A special plastic part is fixed at the top with screws exclusively through the ears intended for this process. The upper part should be positioned vertically, which can be achieved using building level. To fix the film located under the roof, it is customary to use a plastic rim.

Installation of ridge and sloping ribs

When calculating composite tiles, it is very important not to forget about installing the ridge. So, the installation of timber for the ridge is carried out on rafter legs using a special metal stand, the height of which is adjustable. It is necessary that an aero element be installed under the ridge elements, and semicircular elements should be laid according to the overlap principle of up to 30 - 40 millimeters. All parts must be secured with special nails to the ridge beam, the parameters of which are 50x50 millimeters.

Talking about it roofing material, I would like to note that it is distinguished by high quality and excellent appearance. This is achieved through the use of modern technologies in the production process.

Features of composite tiles

The basis of composite tiles is steel sheet, which has on both sides protective coating made from an alloy of aluminum and zinc. WITH outside, composite tiles are covered with a special coating of fine expanded clay stone or other natural stone. Next comes the layer protective varnish, which not only prevents the tiles from fading in the sun, but also protects them from the effects of precipitation, which is also important.

Installation instructions for composite tiles

Our organization has been around for a long time. Materials required for installing a roof made of composite tiles:

• Composite tiles;
• Cornice strip;
• End plate;
• Endova;
• Groove;
• Foam strip;
• Lateral connection;
• Semicircular ridge;
• Various types of fastening;
• Rolled aero element;
• Roof valves;
• Colored nails;
• Self-adhesive sealing tape.

After installing the lathing, it is necessary to carry out hydro- and vapor barrier procedures. The idea is to make a ventilation and drainage device. During the installation process, remember that you need to move in the direction from bottom to top and from left to right. At the same time special attention should be given to the joints with the ventilation system and drainage system.

Make sure that in these places the roof is sufficiently protected from leaks. If necessary, use silicone sealant. Well, after all the procedures are completed, you can begin the process of installing additional elements.

Video composite tiles

The video presented on our website will help you familiarize yourself in detail with all the intricacies and details of installing a roof made of composite tiles.

Composite tile price

Our store offers a large assortment of composite tiles from various manufacturers By low prices. Only we have composite tiles starting from 550 rubles per square meter.

The classic shape of the tiles has not changed for many centuries and is still very popular all over the world - tiled roofs look beautiful and noble. TECHNONICOL LUXARD composite tiles combine traditional forms and modern technologies– having the durability of stone and the strength of metal, it reliably protects the house from environmental influences.

TECHNONICOL LUXARD composite tiles are sheet material, which in its finished form looks like classic clay tiles and at the same time is much more economical than the latter. It can be used in various types buildings, on all types of roofing, with any coverage area and with a slope from 12 to 90 degrees.

Composite roofing is very light in weight and does not require a powerful and expensive rafter system for installation. Due to small size sheets during installation ensure high laying speed and ease of fastening, and there is practically no waste left.

It is recommended to install roofing made of composite tiles at temperatures above +5 °C. For cutting, you can use a hacksaw or metal scissors, a jigsaw or a hand-held circular saw. Using corner grinder with abrasive wheels (grinders) is strictly prohibited! Also for installation work you will need: a hammer, an air gun, a rope level, a tape measure, a template, a square and soft-soled shoes.

Preparing the roof base

To increase service life wooden elements truss structure treat them with antiseptics and fire retardants that are not aggressive to roofing films and coatings. When laying TECHNONICOL LUXARD on wooden structures roofs, as with other types of structures, the pitch of the rafters depends on permanent and temporary loads, as well as on the individual architectural features of the roof and ranges from 600 to 1500 mm.

Installation stages

To increase the service life of the under-roof structure, it is necessary to provide ventilation for each element roofing system.

If the house has a cold attic, the structure of the TN-LUXARD Classic roofing system will consist of the following components:

1. Counter-lattice
2. Step lathing 50*50 mm

In the attic rafter system hidden in the insulation loop, so the entire ventilation load falls on the space between the roofing covering and the film. If the attic is insulated, the structure of the TN-LUXARD Attic roofing system looks like this:

1. Wooden rafter system
2. Plates from stone wool TECHNOLITE EXTRA
3. Vapor barrier film Optima TECHNONICOL
4. Wooden slats to create film slack
5. Optima superdiffusion membrane TECHNONICOL
6. Counter grille to create a ventilation gap
7. Step lathing 50*50 m
8. Composite tiles TECHNONICOL LUXARD
9. Sheathing for attic sheathing
10. Attic filing

1.Laying the waterproofing membrane

Place the lower edge of the starting film sheet onto the front board at least 2 cm and secure it with a construction stapler. Place each next row of film on top of the previous one with an overlap of 15 cm, according to the principle of cascading water.

If the plane of the slope is limited on the side by a rib, mount a strip of at least 30 cm wide on top of the rib.

If the slope is limited by the pediment, then hang the membrane from the pediment by 20 cm.

Create a 5 cm gap between the counter batten and the timber in the valley.

In the valley, the vertical overlap of the canvases is 30 cm. An additional strip of at least 120 cm is installed along the axis of the valley.

2. Installation of sheathing

In the valley, install a support deck 25 mm thick and 150 mm wide from the valley axis in each direction. Install 50x50 mm bars along the supporting deck. Create a 5 cm gap between the counter batten and the timber in the valley.

The lower edge of the base is trimmed along the front board, the upper edge - along the axis of the ridge.

Install the sheathing from bottom to top. Mechanically fix the bottom beam of the sheathing with a distance of 50 mm from the overhang of the counter-lattice. Install subsequent rows with constant spacing. (the pitch is approximately 367 mm for CLASSIC panels, 370 mm for ROMAN panels).

3. Organization of the gable overhang

After completing the installation of the counter-lattice and step lathing under the TECHNONICOL LUXARD panels along the pediment, install the platband (board).

Move the upper part of the casing away from the plane of the sheathing under the composite tiles by 30–40 mm. In this case, place special films on the upper end of the casing.

4. Installation cornice strip

Mount the cornice ventilation tape, which is attached to the lower beam of the sheathing and the front board.

Install the curtain rod top shelf onto the first beam and secure with nails (screws) for composite tiles in increments of 25 cm.

Provide an end overlap of the cornice strips of 10–15 cm. The overlap of the strips should be done in one direction - clockwise or counterclockwise.

5. Fastening panels

Install the tiles from bottom to top. When installing, take into account the wind rose. The order of fastening the sheets is carried out with opposite side prevailing winds.

Secure the upper part of the panel with two galvanized nails (self-tapping screws for the ROMAN panel).

Where the wave of the panel meets the sheathing, place four nails at an angle of 60 degrees to the plane of the slope. Install subsequent rows with offset seams.

6. Pediment

Cut the TECHNONICOL LUXARD panels adjacent to the pediment, taking into account a 2.5 cm overlap on the platband. Then clamp the side part of the panel measuring 2.5 cm in a vice or in a special machine and bend it 90 degrees upward.

Mount the end strips from the bottom up and fix them with special galvanized nails (self-tapping screws) to the platband from above or from the side with a pitch of 25 mm.

7. Endova

Mount the valley elements along the axis from bottom to top with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. Place the first valley element behind the bottom flange of the cornice strip.

Apply foam rubber seal to the sides of the valley. Secure the valley elements using special metal clamps in increments of 25 - 30 cm.

Place the panels over the valley element by 8 cm and bend them down so that the distance between the fold of the panel and the valley element is 1 cm.

If the valley faces a slope, make a lining 40 mm high under the base of the valley.

If the valley is completed on the slope, use a special element - a ribbed groove (1600 * 500 mm). Attach the clamps and foam strips in the same way as the previous valley.

Place the composite tile panel over the valley element by 8 cm and bend it down so that the distance between the lower bend of the composite tile and the valley element is 1 cm.

8. Rib and ridge

To attach ridge and rib beams, it is necessary to mount the timber using metal fasteners with a pitch of 600 mm. The recommended cross-section of the center beam is 50x50 mm.

A roll aero element is mounted on the ridge beam with self-adhesive strips down.

Mount the semicircular ridge elements from bottom to top with an overlap of 2 cm, fixing them with nails (screws) for composite tiles.

Close the end of the first ridge with a plug.

9. Connection to the pipe

Install a panel of composite shingles adjacent to the bottom of the pipe with a 3 cm bend. Install panels adjacent to the sides of the pipe in the same way with the bend.

Above the pipe, make a continuous flooring of 25 mm thick boards.

Plank adjacent to vertical wall cut in place and bend onto the sides of the pipe. Mount the side abutment elements, having previously cut them in place.

Connect the slope to the back side of the pipe using flat sheet(1250 × 600 mm). The width of the pattern is the width of the pipe plus 20 cm.

10. Installation of the aero element

The aerial element of the under-roof space is made in the form of two waves of the panel and is mounted similarly to ordinary panels.

We talked about all the main stages of installing composite tiles. More detailed instructions With step by step description process can be downloaded on the website of the manufacturer of flexible tiles LUXARD - TECHNONICOL company. Having understood the rules, it is quite possible to install composite tiles yourself - the efforts made are definitely worth it: such a covering will not only give the house individuality and nobility, but is also guaranteed to last at least 50 years.

This schematic drawing gives general idea about the main elements of the roof and the purpose of Metrobond accessories.

1. Preparation of the truss structure, counter-lattice

The installation of the truss structure is carried out in accordance with the project documentation and SNiP, taking into account snow and wind loads in a particular area. The use of composite tiles is possible when minimum slope slope – 1:5, approximately 12 degrees. If some roof elements have a smaller slope, it is necessary to first carry out 100% waterproofing of these elements, for example: with roll guides bituminous materials along the continuum wooden flooring, and lay composite tiles for decorative purposes.

The ends of the rafters are sawn vertically. Anti-condensation waterproofing is laid on them Fig. 4.1 - 1. Recommended use: Yutakon-140, Nikofol NW, DELTA MAXX or their analogues. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the thickness of the rafters, it is necessary to use Tyvek super-diffusion waterproofing. Installation of waterproofing is carried out using horizontal sheets, from bottom to top, starting from the eaves, with a vertical overlap of at least 150 mm and a horizontal overlap of at least 100 mm. At the same time, ensuring that the film sag between the rafters by 1 or 2 cm. Do the vertical joining of the panels on the rafters. The first waterproofing sheet is lowered below the edge of the rafters by 100 mm. In the upper part of the slope, the waterproofing is not extended to the ridge by 100 mm for ventilation of the space VK-2 Fig. 4.1 - 2. Along the rafters, on top of the waterproofing, a counter-lattice, a block with a cross-section of 50x50 mm, is placed to create a ventilation duct VK-1, fasten the waterproofing and ensure ventilation of the under-roof space Fig. 4.1 - 2 – A. The lower end of the counter-lattice beam is sawn vertically, hanging over the edge of the rafter by 40mm. Rice. 4.1 - 1

If the roof slope angle is less than 200, the counter-lattice is made of bars with a cross-section of 50x75 mm to increase the cross-section of the ventilation duct VK-1 Fig. 4.1 - 2 – B. If the roof structure has a valley, installation of waterproofing and counter-lattice begins from the valley, in accordance with P 4.8. When installing thermal insulation, make sure that there is a VK-2 ventilation duct between the waterproofing and thermal insulation.

ATTENTION! Required condition normal operation roof, is the presence of ventilation ducts VK-1, VK-2! The result is the functioning of the roof without freezing ice and condensation. When using Tyvek superdiffusion waterproofing, there is no VK-2 ventilation duct.

2. Installation of sheathing

For lathing use wooden blocks with a section of 50x50 mm, if the pitch of the rafters W (Fig. 4.1 - 2.) does not exceed 1000 mm. At larger step The cross-section of rafters and beams increases in accordance with the recommendations of your designer. The moisture content of the material should not exceed 20% of dry weight. The sheathing is installed from the bottom up. The bottom lathing is nailed at a distance of 20 mm from the lower end of the counter-lattice bar, (Fig. 4.2 - 1) it serves to fix the bottom row of sheets (Fig. 4.2 - 1) Callout I. The sheathing bars are joined on the counter-lattice bars. The length of the sheathing bars must be at least two spans between the rafters.

It is very important that the distance between the lower edges of the battens is 370 mm! This is necessary to form a lock between the joined sheets of tiles. This provides reliable waterproofing, wind protection and a noble appearance of the roof. For this purpose, templates are used, which can be made from available materials (Fig. 4.2 - 1). The top row of the sheathing forms an unregulated distance A to the ridge. The optimal rafter length is the Length at which A = 370 mm is the optimal rafter length, which corresponds to a whole sheet of MetroBond®, MetroRoman®, MetroShake®, MetroShake-II )I, MetroClassic®. Ridge battens (necessary for fastening semicircular ridge elements) are attached on both sides of the ridge at a distance of 130 mm. Rice. 4.2 - 1 Callout II. The ridge bars of the sheathing needed for attaching the rib ridges must first be trimmed and secured on both sides of the ridge at a distance of 120 mm. Rice. 4.2 - 1 Callout III. If the roof contains valleys, the sheathing bars should extend 180 mm to the right and left of the valley line. Installation in the valley is described in detail in section 4.8.

3. Installation of tiles on the eaves

1. Install the curtain rod. The thickness of the cornice board should be 40 mm.
2. Attach the cornice board to the rafters with nails.
3. Install the brackets for fastening the gutters onto the eaves board Fig. 4.3 - 1
   Callout II. If installation of gutters is not planned, then a condensate drip is installed on the eaves board. Fig. 4.3 - 1 Callout I. The drip line for condensate is made of
   cornice strip Fig. 4.3 - 2. In this case, the consumption of the cornice strip will double.
4. Starting from the edge of the cornice, install the cornice element.
5. The cornice element is secured with four nails.
6. Install the remaining cornice elements with an overlap of at least 100 mm.

ATTENTION! When installing the cornice, you must make sure that:

– laid on top of the cornice board waterproofing film so that there is
unhindered drainage of condensate into the gutter of the drainage system Fig. 4.3 - 1 Callout II
or on a condensate drip Fig. 4.3 - 1 Callout I;
– the drip edge of the cornice strip goes into drainage system;
– between the cornice element and the waterproofing there is space for air flow
spirit into the under-roof ventilation along the ventilation duct VK-1 dotted line;
– in the cornice lining there are channels for the flow of air into the under-roof ventilation along

ventilation duct VK-2 dotted line.

4. Installation of tiles on the roof slope

The sheets are laid with an overlap in the direction from top to bottom, the lower element goes under the upper one. When laying, the sheets from the top row, already secured at the top, are lifted, and the edge of the next sheet is placed under them. Next, the top of the new row of sheets, together with the bottom of the previous row, is nailed to the sheathing.

ATTENTION! When choosing the order of laying sheets in each row, the prevailing directions of wind flows in a given area should be taken into account. Fig. 4.4 - 1 – A or Fig. 4.4 - 1– V.

The sheets are installed in a checkerboard pattern with a lateral offset S between the rows. In places where there are overlaps, no more than three sheets should meet. For lateral offset between rows S and lateral overlap between sheets B see Fig. 4.4 - 1 should be selected following the collection of composite tiles according to the table:

In Fig. 4.4 - 2 shows at what points and in what sequence the nails are driven, following the collection of composite tiles. The diagrams are given for the case when the next sheet in a row is superimposed on the left of the previous one. If the sheet is the last in the row, then nail 4a is used to secure its free edge. The nails are driven in at an angle of 45 degrees to the surface of the material. Fig. 4.4 - 2 Callout I.

If necessary, nail heads are painted and covered with stone chips. Paint and chips are available as a repair kit. Nails can be driven in by hand Fig. 4.4 - 3 – A or using an air gun Fig. 4.4 - 3 – B. Using a pneumatic gun, installation can be carried out from the bottom up, being below the sheet being mounted.

Rice. 4.4 - 4 – A

Before you begin installing the top row of sheets, you need to measure the distance A
Rice. 4.2 - 1. Depending on the distance A, several options for fastening the top row of sheets are possible.
The optimal length of the rafters for installing the top row is such a length at which A = 370 mm, which fully corresponds to a whole sheet of MetroBond®, MetroRoman®, MetroShake®, MetroShake-II (MetroShake-®I )I, MetroClassic®.

Fig 4.4-4-B

If distance A is in the range of 250-370 mm, then you can move one row to another. In this case, the sheets are fastened from above, driving nails into the top of the sheet profile. In order to maintain the calculated snow and wind load limits, eight nails should be driven into the sheet. A sealant is laid between the sheets. Rice. 4.4 - 4 – B

5. Installation of tiles on the gable

Mount the roofing sheets flush with the ends of the sheathing bars. Rice. 4.5 - 1 Using a manual bending device, bend the edges of the sheets upward by 90 degrees to a distance of 30-40 mm. Rice. 4.5 - 2 Attach a wind board with a cross-section of 25x130 mm to the ends of the sheathing bars.

ATTENTION! The edge of the wind board, located at the top, is set in such a way that the end strip just touches the surface of the roofing sheets with its curly teeth. A universal sealant should be applied to the roofing sheets. Rice. 4.5 - 3 Installation of the end strips is carried out from the bottom up. The lower end of the first end strip from the cornice is closed with an end strip cap. The plug is inserted inside the end plate, sealed with silicone and secured with four self-tapping screws. Before fixing, all end strips are laid out on the wind board. After making sure that the planks are laid evenly and correctly, nail them to the wind board, at the rate of five or six nails per plank Fig. 4.5 - 4. The end strip can be replaced using a semicircular ridge. Section of the end plate fastening unit, see Fig. 4.5 - 5 – A. An additional apron is placed under the end strip, which is made of a flat sheet, if the thickness roofing pie on the pediment more than 130 mm. Rice. 4.5 - 5 – V

6. Installation of tiles on the ridge

To protect yourself from moisture and snow getting between the ridge beam and the ridge element, a universal seal is installed.

The ends of the skates can be closed with plugs, if necessary, Fig. 6.6 - 5.

7. Installation of tiles on a hip roof

50 x 50 mm bars are attached to the sheathing along the hip ridge, at a distance of 150-160 mm, which is necessary for fastening a semicircular ridge element, or at a distance of 120-130 mm, necessary for fastening a rib ridge element. Rice. 4.7 - 1.
MetroTile® sheets that are adjacent to the hip are manufactured as shown in Fig. 4.7-2 and Fig. 4.7- 3. To begin with, measuring right size sheet, marking a fold line on the sheet in accordance with it, to which an allowance of 50 mm is given, draw a cutting line. We cut the workpiece along the cutting line Fig. 4.7 - 2. Along the fold line, bend the edge up 90 degrees using a hand or special tool Rice. 4.7 - 3. Measurements are taken on the roof, but sheets must be cut and bent on the ground.

Before you begin installing the hip ridges, it is necessary to additionally lay seals along the ridge beam. Further, the fastening of hip skates is carried out similarly to the fastening of an ordinary skate. Semicircular ridge elements are laid as shown in Fig. 4.7 - 4.

8. Installation of tiles in the valley

Fastening of 25 mm thick boards under the valley is carried out to the right and left of the valley line to a width of at least 200 mm Fig. 4.8 - 1.

The waterproofing, previously installed along the slopes, is laid on top of the waterproofing, which is laid along the valley with an overlap of at least 150 mm.

Starting from the cornice with an overlap of 100 mm, the valley elements are fastened with nails from the bottom up to the valley boards. Nails are driven at a maximum distance from the valley line and at a distance of 30 mm from its upper edge. Each subsequent element is pushed into the previous one and fixed with nails. It is recommended to lay a universal seal along the side of the valley.

ATTENTION! The valley element is supplied without stone topping.

Before installation, side edge roofing sheet bend down using a manual or special bending device Fig. 4.8 - 2. The distance between the bottom bend and the valley element should be 10 or 15 mm.

9. Sealing the heating (ventilation) pipe

Heating and ventilation pipes must be plastered before starting installation work with roofing materials. Pipes should not have overlaps, ledges, etc. In Fig. 4.9 - 1 shows a section of the heating system, ventilation pipe in plane A, which is parallel to the rafters.

10. Installation of tiles on the external and internal fracture of the slope

The installation of tiles on the external fracture of the slope is shown in Fig. 4.11 - 1.
The installation of tiles on the internal fracture of the slope is shown in Fig. 4.11 - 2.

* The size depends on the slope angle of the slopes and is specified during the installation of the sheathing.

11. Installation of snow guards

The structure of the MetroTile® material prevents avalanche-like snow from falling off the roof. In cases where the roof slope is more than four hundred degrees or building codes insist on installing snow guards, they are installed according to Fig. 4.14 - 1 and Fig. 4.14 - 2.

MetroTile® composite shingles install quickly and efficiently on old surface coverings, reconstructing the roof in short terms. Unique technique installation allows the installation of MetroTile ® composite shingles on standing seam roofing, corrugated roofing and flexible shingles.

For installation on top of a roof that has a wavy profile with a pitch not exceeding 500 mm, a counter-lattice is mounted Fig. 4.15 - 3. Thus, along the wave of the old, outdated roof, a block is attached, the cross-section of which must exceed the height of the wave in height, and the width of the block must be trimmed in order to fit tightly into the recess of the wave. Next, we install the sheathing and the tiles themselves.

MetroTile® in accordance with these instructions.
Installation of counter-lattice bitumen shingles made from a bar with a cross-section of 50 mm x 50 mm and a pitch of 500 mm. Next, install the sheathing and MetroTile ® shingles in accordance with these instructions. In addition, the roof can be additionally insulated Fig. 4.15 - 4.

13. Ventilation of the under-roof space

The ventilation duct VK-1 is created thanks to counter-lattice. During the design of the cornice, air enters from below into the ventilation duct VK-2. (see Fig. 4.3 - 1). A ridge ventilation outlet is constructed to allow air to freely exit from the under-roof space at a distance that does not exceed 1 m from the ridge. Dormer windows are installed if upper part the roof has a fairly cold attic Fig. 5 - 1. The total area of ​​dormer windows can be no less than 1/300 of the area of ​​the horizontal projection of the roof. Roof fans are installed if there is no cold attic or the project does not provide dormer windows Rice. 5 - 2. Roof fans provide air outlet from the ventilation ducts in the ridge area.

The support platforms of MetroTile ® roof fans follow the profile of the selected material – MetroBond®. The fans are made of PVC and are protected on top with basalt chips, like other parts. In order to achieve the recommended skate performance ventilation outlet, roof fans are installed no further than 0.8 m from the ridge. One for every 50-70 sq.m. roof surfaces. Providing high-quality ventilation, roof fans prevent rainwater, snow and birds from entering vulnerable attic spaces.

Installation video