Puttying joints in a wooden floor. Sealing cracks in a wooden floor with glue with sawdust, cement mixture, putty, paste and paper, cord and silicone sealant. How cracks and crevices appear

The wooden floor is an environmentally friendly home atmosphere, natural design, leaving a pleasant impression, warmth and home comfort. And, although the tree is strong enough and durable material, like any other, it tends to lose its attractive appearance over time, dry out, crack and creak underfoot. The most annoying thing is, of course, the cracks. Before thinking about how to close the gaps in wooden floor, it is worth thinking about the reasons for their appearance, and there are many of them, and this is not only the duration of operation.

How cracks and crevices appear

• Too dry indoor air. For the future, to solve this problem, you can purchase special devices and sprayers to increase the humidity in an apartment or house, in addition, too dry air is harmful to the inhabitants of the room.
• Drying out of the floorboard is a natural and logical process - such shrinkage occurs with any wood, and lasts from 3 to 6 years. In this regard, it is better to immediately choose boards made according to advanced technology vacuum drying - liquid is removed from them at the cellular level.
• The reason for the appearance of cracks can be errors and shortcomings of the masters during laying work. During installation, the floor must be completely immobilized - for this you should use ordinary nails and nail the floorboards to the logs.
• Of great importance in the appearance of cracks is "underground" ventilation. best advice will close the vents, and carry out ventilation through the room. In cases where there is no ventilation under the floor, it will be appropriate to make holes for air to enter in the corners of the room. So you can protect the floor from dampness and decay.
• Another cause of cracks in the floor in a private country house mice can become and before you deal with the floorboard, you should deal with rodents.

Gap filling materials

For these purposes, you can use different materials and ways. To begin with, consider how to close the cracks in the wooden floor. It is allowed to close them with wedges or slats - this is the most effective method.

Sequence of work

1. The slats should be narrower at the bottom and match the size of the gap.
2. We smooth the cracks and process them (and the slats) with PVA glue.
3. The slats are glued into the slot and knocked out with a rubber mallet.
4. If, after the glue has dried, a tubercle of protruding wedges remains on the floor surface, it can be carefully removed with a planer.
5. This is followed by a grinding procedure, emery and an angle grinder are used.

At the final stage, stain or paint with varnish is applied.

Crack filling materials

Sometimes you should not engage in such a laborious process as a bulkhead of the entire floor, especially when the crate on which it is located is not damaged. batten. In cases of local damage and not very large gaps between the floorboards, you can do cosmetic repairs using modern means. The question is how to cover up the cracks in the wooden floor.

To fill the cracks, special sealants have been created today.

• Sealant silicone and acrylic.
• Mounting foam (construction).
• Putty materials.

If the aesthetic appearance of the floors is not so important, improvised means are used.

• Adhesive solution with sawdust.
• Solution oil paint with sawdust.
• Epoxy with cement.
• Construction foam with polystyrene.

How to use putty

It should be noted that sealants are the most convenient to use, since it is not necessary to prepare the solution, but you can immediately begin to act.

The sealant has a nozzle - a syringe, due to which the process of filling the gaps is greatly facilitated. To the sealant, instructions for preparing the floors are usually attached.

The putty is easy to use, easy to prepare and quickly levels the floor, but does not differ in durability.

Construction foam is used as follows:

1. plinths must be removed and the floorboards removed from dirt;
2. if desired, fill the gaps with foam, and then with foam;
3. after drying, the excess foam is cut off, the floor must then be puttied.

The glue mixture with sawdust is prepared as follows:

• first you need to steam the sawdust with boiling water, wait until they swell, mix. Then mix with adhesive base(use PVA or wood glue).
• A thick suspension is applied with a spatula, leveled, excess is removed. After 3 days of drying, it is worth sanding the floorboards or scraping.
• Oil paint is diluted to a thick, viscous state and sawdust that has been pre-soaked and swollen, pre-cooled, is added to it. Mix well and use the mixture in the same way as the adhesive solution.

Whichever floor optimization method you choose, do not forget about the causes of wood "sickness" and preventive measures during the operation of wooden floors.

How to fix cracks in a wooden floor

Warm, comfortable, harmonious life in wooden cottage. In such a building, a unique microclimate is created, as well as natural ventilation. But for the maintenance and operation of a wooden building, a special approach is required. In this article we will talk about how to make a wooden floor.

A wooden floor is beautiful and environmentally friendly, but up to a certain point. Namely, until the boards dry out and gaps appear between them in the floor. How and with what to close the cracks in the floor so that it becomes attractive again is a whole science.

Often within a year or two after laying wood flooring gaps appear between the boards. Boards are reduced in size during shrinkage. This process is natural and normal, but the result does not please him. There is a cardinal solution - to re-lay everything anew, rallying the removed boards together and adding a couple of new ones. But not everyone is willing or able to do so. It seems like it's too complicated. Yes. Not easy. But other ways to seal cracks are no easier and take no less time. But let's see how to solve the current problem.

How to close small gaps

If the gaps are not too large yet - 1-2 mm, you can use repair compounds with which they are simply covered. For these purposes, use:

After such repair, the floor can be painted. If the color is well chosen, it can be varnished. Here wax or oil, most likely, will not work - neither the mixture with PVA nor the sealant will be tinted and will stand out very strongly.

Closing large gaps

During the restoration of the old wooden floor gaps can be half a centimeter or more. There are several methods to solve these problems. The first is the same bulkhead and rallying the boards in a new way. But there is one trick here. Old boards along the edge are often deformed. To avoid problems when rallying, carpenters walk between the boards with a hacksaw. So the edges are aligned, and two in one pass, and shortcomings are immediately revealed and badly damaged boards can be rejected. For owners of a manual router, the process can be simplified using a milling cutter right size.

If a bulkhead is not possible (for example, partitions are installed on top of the floor), there are other options for how to close the gaps:

A few words about how to close the cracks with wooden inserts. The slots are of different sizes, so you have to make each wedge separately. Long and dreary, and inserts of different sizes do not decorate the floor too much. There is an option to make the job easier and, at the same time, improve the appearance. Take a cutter and fit all the slots to the same size. If some are too wide, two "calibers" or three can be made. It's still better than cutting wedges for every crack.

In addition to the advantages described above, we remove from the edges with a cutter old wood, expose the fibers. They will hold the insert better, as the wood fibers smeared with glue will rise, connect with the same fibers on the insert. After the glue dries, tearing this piece of wood out of the groove will be very problematic. If everything is done correctly and carefully, the floor after grinding already looks good, and if it is soaked with stain and varnished (it can be matte, without gloss), it has a very decent look. Stain removes the difference in color, and varnish hides flaws.

All these methods are more or less durable, but only if the boards do not sag. If the wooden floor sags, it will not be possible to close the cracks for a long time. From the movement of materials, most likely, they will separate. So first you need to make sure that the boards do not “walk”.

How to eliminate the deflection of the boards

If the boards noticeably “play” when walking, mistakes were made. The lag step was incorrectly chosen or too thin boards were laid. So the solution is obvious:

• Put additional lags.
• Lay thicker boards.

Both options require you to first disassemble the old floor. This is far from always possible. Although, if there is such an opportunity, it is better to do so, but there is also a way without gender analysis.

To rally the boards with dowels

To eliminate the deflection of the boards, you can turn the flooring into a single surface. To do this, dowels are inserted into the boards at an angle, which fasten two adjacent boards. Dowels are wooden rods. The hole for them is drilled so that it passes through two boards. Exact Angle the slope depends on the thickness of the flooring, so it is selected in place. The angle must be chosen so that the layer of wood above / below the dowel is not too thin.

Holes are slightly drilled larger diameter than dowels. Usually - 5 mm more. For example, under the dowel 8 cm, the drill is taken 8.5 mm. Under dowel 10 mm, drill 10.5 mm. Did you understand. Why is the hole bigger? Dowels sit on glue. If they go in too tightly, they will squeeze it out. The strength of such a connection will be low. And so, the fibers from the glue will swell, intertwine with the fibers of the dowel. When the glue polymerizes (PVA), the connection will become very strong. When trying to break it, the wood next to it bursts, and the connection itself holds.

The drill needs to be very long - you have to drill at an angle not so thin boards. It's hard to find this. As an option - weld a rod suitable diameter. Another tip: make a template that will allow you to easily maintain the desired slope. It's difficult without him. Especially at the beginning. After several hundred holes, it will be possible to maintain the specified angle even without a template.

Then the hole from the inside and the dowel are smeared with glue. For holes, it will be necessary to adapt a long spout from a tube to an ordinary bottle of glue (in such stationery PVA they sell). The tube is taken about 20 cm, soldered at the end. Holes are made in the sides. The holes should not be too large so that when pressed, the glue splatters on the sides. The technique is clear - the sprinkler is inserted into the hole, we press the bottle, the glue gets on the walls.

The dowel soaked in glue is installed in place. Leave it like this until the glue dries. Then the protruding part of the wooden chopik is cut off, the cut is polished. It is easiest to cut with a grinder, to grind - with what is. Manual grinder, planer or all the same grinder or drill at low speeds and with the appropriate nozzle.

How to close the gap between the floor and the wall

During repairs in the old housing stock, by removing the old baseboards, we often find an unsightly picture. Between the wooden floor and the wall we have a solid distance clogged with all sorts of debris. Immediately comes the desire to seal this gap. It is not worth closing it completely, since it is needed, but you can reduce it.

In general, a technological gap is left around the perimeter of the wooden floor. It should be between 1 cm and 4 cm in size. It depends on the size of the room. This gap is needed to compensate for changes in the dimensions of the boards. But if you immediately leave a large gap, over time, the wood dries out, the gap becomes too large. For dried wood, it is clearly redundant. Especially since modern skirting boards have a width of 2-2.5 cm, and the rest cannot be covered with them. Unless it's made to order. This is also a way out, but you can go the other way.

The gap between the boards and the floor can be reduced with wood inserts. From a dry board of the same thickness that is laid on your floor. You can put the insert, but it is necessary to leave 1-1.5 cm between it and the wall.

If the edge of the floor is uneven, it will be necessary to file the boards, trim them. There is manual frezer- it's easier for you. No - with a hacksaw. After the edge is trimmed, measure the thickness of the insert you need. Do not forget that there should be a free space of 1-1.5 cm. From a dry board of suitable thickness, cut out the desired width of the insert. You can pin them to the beams on which the floor lies.

How to fill the technological gap

The technological gap between the wooden floor and the wall must be mandatory. But emptiness will contribute to audibility, which is far from always pleasing. Alternatively, you can install polyethylene foam or a suitable thickness (it is 10 mm and 8 mm). Styrofoam and polyurethane foam this case although much cheaper, but they will not help here. Wood is constantly “walking”, it will tighten the material, then let it go. Foamed polyethylene and damper tape are compressed under load, and after its removal are restored. Styrofoam and polypropylene, once compressed, remain. So they don't make sense.

Can be used not damper tape, and a special elastic cord made of polyethylene foam and sealant. This solution is better for soundproofing. Foamed polyethylene cord is used to fill damper ( expansion joints). Its diameter is 1-1.5 cm. Choose which one you need. The cord should not be located at the very surface, but slightly lower - at a distance of about 1 centimeter from the edge of the board. Since the floorboard is usually at least 28mm thick, a "stand" may be required. Here you can use polystyrene foam. It will only support the cord. Cut into strips right size, put in the gap. Above is a cord.

Wood sealant is applied over the cord. When choosing a composition, pay attention to maintain elasticity after drying. The thickness of the sealant layer is not more than the width of the gap. Better is less. Otherwise, it will lose its elasticity. After application, it is necessary to form a surface either as in the figure - concave or convex. So the sealant retains elasticity longer and better stretches / shrinks. This relief is formed by any bait of a suitable shape. Even with a fingernail in a glove, even with the handle of a spoon or fork.

Now you know not only how and with what to close the cracks in the wooden floor, but also how to eliminate the deflections of the boards, how to close the gap between the wooden floor and the wall.

This question should be asked at the stage of purchasing the material, because the gaps in wooden house can manifest themselves not only in the interventional space, but also on the surface of raw materials. How to choose right material With least loss and carry out a quality process for caulking and gap filling, details below. It should be noted that the neglect of this action entails not only the impossibility comfortable living but also damage to the material.

The purity of wood is the key to quality

It is possible to buy absolutely smooth raw materials. But the absence of cracks and crevices is rather a sign of the freshness of the timber or log. This means that wood carries a large percentage of moisture, which is not good, since shrinkage can deform the elements and cracks will inevitably appear when placed in a log house.

It is best to purchase dry raw materials with a minimum web of defects, then there is a chance that the aging and drying technology is followed. How to fix these shortcomings and how to cover up the cracks log house or cracks in profiled timber? With the help of many means known since the time of our ancestors. Namely:

• Joiner's glue + wood waste. Exactly this available remedy for quality work.
• Synthetic derivatives - sealants, mastics, resins, polyurethane foams.
• Caulking with jute, flax, tow and moss.
• Decorative patch.

More about the processes available to non-professionals:

• Using wood glue to seal cracks in a wooden house, it is possible both at the finishing stage and subsequent regular inspections of the object for damage. The tool is affordable, cheap, brings a lot of benefits. But the disadvantage is only the use in small areas, with extensive lesions, it is worth using something else.

So: cracks should be cleaned with fine emery so that sawdust and wood dust are collected. Next, a paste is prepared from them - glue is poured into the mass.

Then the substance is laid in the cracks and left for easy setting. After grinder places are being processed.

• Using sealant to seal gaps wooden house, you need to learn one rule - acrylic options not suitable for outdoor work. Silicone should also be treated with caution - they can delaminate in the cold, so the bottle must be labeled strictly as frost-resistant. Worth picking up suitable color to the general background of wood.

Before applying the product, the cracks must be treated for biological deterioration. It would not be bad to walk, in general, with all kinds of defenses. Next, the sealant is put into the gaps as deep as possible and compared with the surface.

Sealing cracks in a wooden house with foam for mounting purposes is recommended only if further cladding is required. It has an unpresentable appearance, and even after cutting off the protruding parts, attractiveness is not added. In addition, foam is a kind of foam rubber that has cells.

Consequently, the moisture that gets there is able to be retained and act detrimental to the wood. Resins and mastics can play the role of putty, but when sub-zero temperatures they are destroyed.

• Caulker - the most The best way sealing interventional gaps of the finished log house after shrinkage. It is periodic in nature and takes place in three stages. The first - immediately after the assembly of the object, the second after shrinkage and the third after 3-5 years of operation.

This process - sealing cracks in a wooden house - is subject to buildings from all types of raw materials - timber, logs. Sellers expensive materials– a glued or profiled set have no right to say that their wood does not need it. There is practically no such type that did without the occurrence of gaps and cracks.

The caulking process is as follows:

• Previously, the surface of the walls is cleaned of wood chips, protruding fasteners and other things. You can use a grinder or a vacuum cleaner.
• Then the surface, especially those places where gaps need to be sealed, in a wooden house is impregnated with chemical or natural defenses against fire, fungus, moisture and mold. Each layer must dry completely before applying the next.
• Further, it will not be difficult to close up the cracks in the wooden house with the selected caulk. There are two ways to do this - in a set and stretched. The first for filamentous materials - tow, rope.

The second - for tape materials: jute, lnovatin. Use in the process special tools- dobor, flat caulk and mallet for accurate driving.

Sufficiency is checked with an awl - if it enters the closed gap with difficulty, the material is laid with high quality. But you can’t overdo it either - you can violate the position of the crowns.

• Work is carried out strictly in a circle, from two sides. Regular preventive maintenance and freeing the house of old material is the key to a windproof house.

The decorative caulk is as follows:

1. A decorative cord is used as a material and such raw materials are used in order to seal cracks in log house looked beautiful with expensive and elite material - glued laminated timber, logs.
2. Before laying the twisted cord, the usual manipulations for caulking are performed - cleaning, impregnation. Further, the gaps in the wood are sealed with sealant, mastic or resin. This is done just in case the cord suddenly falls out.
3. It remains to lay the rope. With the help of tools, it is carefully driven between the logs, without waiting for the complete drying of the substance laid before caulking.

The wood house crevice sealant will grab together with the cord, and strength will be ensured. When caulking with a rope, you should start with corner mates and then work on other areas.

During the operation of residential premises in apartments or houses, situations arise when spaces form between the wall and the floor. different sizes and depth. There is a need to repair them, but not only because they spoil the appearance of the living space, but also because it is a direct source of drafts, dampness penetration into the rooms, which brings hordes of insects, mold and flexibility.

Therefore, it is extremely important that once such a problem is discovered, it should be fixed immediately. Carrying out the work will not take much effort and time, it involves following several stages:

• Determining the size of the gap - length and depth;
• Based on the scale of future work, the material with which the hole will be sealed is selected.

To seal very small gaps (about 1 cm), you can take mortars of putty, mounting gypsum or cement. Larger gaps (2-5 cm) must be filled with mounting foam. If the damage is much larger (from 5 cm or more), then you need to resort to more serious work and the use of other materials. Below will be serial technology elimination of gaps between the wall and the floor of any complexity.

Preparation for work

The sealing of such cracks falls into the category cosmetic repairs. Preparation depends on what decor elements your walls or floor are decorated with. If there is a plinth, it must be removed, the wallpaper removed, the paint layer cleaned and removed, and the whitewash washed off. In the latter case, you need to let the wall dry completely. Remove all dust and dirt that may interfere with the quality fixation of the embedding materials.

If termination takes place in a room where you do not plan to carry out complete renovation, then the wallpaper needs to be removed only partially, or try to carefully tear off the strip from the wall, so that after finishing the work, glue it back, returning the wall to its original appearance. All surfaces that may get dirt during the repair process must be protected with film, paper and securely fixed - this will avoid additional costs when putting things in order. Such measures will keep the floor and walls from polyurethane foam, plasters and paints. Paper or newspapers should not be used if there is a lot of water in the workplace - it is useless as a protective material in this case.

The goal is a big gap

To fill a hole ideal option there will be appropriately sized pieces of brick, styrofoam, styrofoam or plastic. If the parts are large, then they need to be broken or broken - small filling components guarantee that they will lie inside the hole as tightly as possible and carefully fill the cavity. Be careful that when filling the volume of the gap, you do not deform the existing hole and do not expand it.

These materials will help you save expensive mounting foam, which should be poured into the gap after the previous materials. Practice shows that with the use of bricks or other fillers, only one bottle of mounting foam is required to restore even very large damage.

You should not fill it to the eyeballs, because it tends to expand several times. Fill the remaining space by about a third, in very severe cases - by half. If the layer turns out to be very large, then apply it not at once, but in parts, allowing the previous layer to fully expand and harden. This will reduce the risk of overfilling and subsequent foam tatters falling out, and as a result, it will save foam volume.

Target is a medium to small gap

The ideal option for filling such holes would be soft, plastic materials with a high density - tow or building felt. To prevent such materials from becoming a refuge for pests, they must be thoroughly impregnated with insecticidal substances before filling, formalin most often plays their role.

The material rolls into small rolls, the diameter of which should be slightly over size slit, and applied to the slit. Further, with the help of a small rubber or wooden hammer, the roll is gently but surely hammered into the hollow space of the damage. It is advisable to fill the void with a single piece of material, without small parts, so that unnecessary cavities do not form between them.

If the gap is so small that you cannot physically stuff the tow into it, then help will come soft spatula and plastic gypsum mortar. The technology is simple - apply a strip of gypsum to the tip of the spatula and apply to the damage, then gently press. This will allow the mortar to fill the entire cavity and immediately fill the wall surface to minimize preparation for finishing.

To save the surrounding area from dirt, you can use self-adhesive construction fabric (which will not work if you already have wallpaper) or the above methods. After the gap is completely clogged, the formalin dries out - you can decorate the seam.

Gap between baseboard and wall or floor

It usually forms when old walls warp or dry out. wooden skirting boards. Such an error is repaired very simply - with the help of acrylic sealant, modern stores provide a choice of any colors and shades. The cylinder is installed in a special sealant supply device and applied over the distance between the elements.

Rules for working with mounting foam

Two-thirds of cases still require the active use of mounting foam, even in small quantities. Therefore, it is important to figure out how to use it correctly. The recommendations are:

• Before filling the cavity, its surface must be slightly moistened with ordinary water. To do this, it is advisable to use a mechanical spray gun or a bottle with holes in the lid. This is done to better fix the foam inside the damage.
• When filling it is necessary to remember the ability of the foam to expand. In addition, wetting the surface will only enhance this effect. The foam must be applied carefully, carefully, little by little.
• Ideal Conditions working with it - from five to twenty-five degrees of heat. The cylinder must be heated in water with the appropriate temperature.
• Before use, the container with foam must be thoroughly shaken.
• Work should be carried out only in goggles and gloves - the foam is very caustic, it adheres firmly to all things and objects. In case of accidental contact with clean surfaces, it is recommended to remove the foam only after complete drying, and wipe off the foam that has not yet hardened with a special solvent.
• Hardened foam is removed with a sharp knife.

Finishing the wall after repairing the damage

Remove excess foam so that a small depression remains at the seam. It will be filled with a small layer of putty or gypsum with a spatula and brought to the same level with the wall. After the layer has dried mortar there will be no trace left of the crack. From above, the wall can be finished in all sorts of ways - attach a baseboard, paint, glue wallpaper, tile, plastic, wood, and so on.

Conclusion

Such damage between the floor and walls is desirable to detect and repair before finishing works so as not to damage the already existing finishing surfaces during the work. Thus, the work will be completed faster and at a lower cost. If the sealing takes place in a clean room, then precautions should not be neglected, especially when working with mounting foam.

Video

From the video you will learn in more detail how and with what to close the cracks.

Wooden floors as per appearance, and in terms of their environmental and heat-saving qualities, they are one of the best for installation in an apartment, house, log house, in a bathhouse or in a bathroom. But unfortunately, over time, they may lose their original attractive appearance - cracks appear in the wooden floor. This can be caused by many factors.

To avoid future defects, it is necessary to control the process of laying such a floor from the very beginning - concrete screed, which serves as the basis of the floor should dry well. Otherwise, the evaporating moisture will be absorbed into the wood, which will lead to its deformation. The boards used during work must be well dried, and the floor laying technology must be observed to the smallest detail.

A low level of humidity in the room can also cause the wood to dry out, and even a seasonal increase in humidity to the required level of 40-60% will not return the dried material to its original appearance.

The cracks can be caused by rodents.

No less important is the choice of wood species for the floor. Oak is the most resistant to deformations, cherry, maple, pear, beech can be attributed to the “risk zone”.

But if sexual defects still appear - do not despair, there are many ways to deal with this problem (from old, time-tested "grandfather" methods to technologies using modern building mixtures and materials that will eliminate defects and gaps even in the laminate). All of them will help restore attractiveness to a wooden floor, eliminate the flow of cold air, without resorting to expensive re-laying work.

Putties and mixtures for treating cracks

You can close cracks in a wooden floor in a house or a log house using putty, independently prepared from glue and sawdust. But before the start of restoration work, it is necessary to prepare the floor: thoroughly wash and dry, clean the floor gaps from debris clogged in them with a brush or spatula. The solution is prepared quite simply: filled with boiling water sawdust leave to swell for an hour and a half. Then, stirring constantly, add to them wallpaper glue until the mass becomes viscous.

With the resulting putty, it is necessary to carefully cover all the cracks in the house (log house), pressing it to the full depth, and leave to dry for 3 days. After drying, all irregularities are easily cleaned with sandpaper.

No less effective is a tool in which paper and paste are used for putty. Soak the shredded paper with water and leave to swell, then squeeze and mix with the paste. The cracks are sealed in the same way as in the first case with a putty made of sawdust and glue.

If rodents have become the cause of the appearance of cracks in the house or log house, then restoration work alone is not enough, it is also necessary to take “preventive” measures so that such holes do not appear again and again. Before cosmetic restoration of the floor (applying putty), it is necessary to fill the holes with a mixture of concrete and broken glass.

Closing large gaps

But if the floor cracks in the log house, for example, are quite wide (from 5 mm or more), and their edges are uneven, it is better to strengthen the walking structure with rails:

1. for this, it is necessary to pre-treat the gaps between the boards using a milling machine and drive the dowels into them;
2. from well-dried pine boards, prepare slats of the desired size - they should be slightly smaller than the width of the gap (for example, for a gap of 6 mm, you must choose a slat 5.5 mm wide);
3. then we carefully coat with PVA glue not only the slats, but also the edges of the very gap between the joints of the boards;
4. glue the dowels and slats into the holes, and the remaining small cracks and we cover the gaps with a self-prepared composition of PVA glue and sawdust (the density of the putty is brought to the consistency of sour cream) or a ready-made putty mixture;
5. we proceed to “beautifying”: we grind the floor with a grinder with sandpaper, and to even out the color (glued-in strips will, as a rule, be more dark shade), we process the floor with a mixture of stain and varnish (the masking tape is glued along the board). For maximum effect, it is better to apply varnish with stain in several layers.

Sexual defects in a log house or a house (this method is suitable for any room, even for a bathroom) can be repaired in a rather old, but proven old-fashioned way. Instead of rails, a synthetic rope of the appropriate thickness, impregnated with PVA glue, is used. The rope is hammered up to half the height of the board into the gap, and the remaining voids are filled with the same mixture of PVA glue and sawdust, a little “with a slide”. The protruding glue after drying is easily cut off with a regular knife.

Restoration of a wooden floor in a bath or bathroom

When processing cracks and gaps in a bathroom or bath, it is necessary to process the seams more carefully in order to maintain the tightness of the floor. After repair work it is necessary to open the treated surface with water-repellent paint or varnish, otherwise high humidity or drops of water falling on the floor in the bathroom will be absorbed into the wood, which will lead to repeated deformation of the wood.

To close the floor gaps in the bathroom, it is recommended to use sanitary tow. Soaked in glue, it is pressed into the gaps and left to dry completely. Small gaps or cracks can be treated with a special putty for wood surfaces (preferably with water-repellent and antifungal properties).

One of the most reliable methods processing gaps and crevices in a wooden floor (this method is perfect for rooms with high humidity- for a bathroom or a bath) the following is considered: using epoxy resin. First, a mixture of epoxide and hardener is prepared, then cement is mixed into it (in a ratio of 1: 1) to the consistency of sour cream. It is necessary to process cracks in the bathroom quickly, until the mortar has dried. Large gaps should be pre-caulked with tow or cord. It is necessary to pour the resulting mixture “with a slide” - it will settle as it dries.

But no matter what method you choose to process a wooden floor in a bathroom or bath, do not forget about finishing: polishing and covering the floor with special varnishes or paint.

Parquet renovation

Completely re-laying cracked, deformed parquet is a rather time-consuming and costly undertaking. Therefore, the question arises of how to close the cracks in the parquet without carrying out large-scale repair work.

First you need rough grinding clean the parquet from old varnish and dirt. The cracks in the parquet are carefully cleaned with a brush with metal bristles, the remaining debris is removed with a vacuum cleaner. Then you need to choose the right type of putty. It depends on many factors: the type of wood finish, the size of the defects, and the planned top coat (lacquer, paint or oil).

When you have decided on the putty, you can get to work. It is more efficient to apply putty material over the entire surface, rather than close up each gap or gap separately. Thus, you will process even small sexual cracks that are not visible to the eye.

Slots in the parquet must be filled with mortar to the full depth with a special spatula. Then you need to let the putty dry and only then proceed to the finish coat.

How to repair defects and cracks in the laminate

The cracks in the laminate are dangerous because a surface devoid of a protective layer will absorb moisture much faster, and this will lead to deformation of the entire floor covering.

Re-lay the floor (as in the case of parquet flooring) is not always possible. The simplest, fastest and cheapest way is to use a special repair mortar for processing chips, cracks and defects in the laminate. This composition is sold in construction stores in a large assortment, allowing you to choose the right color for your flooring. In order not to damage the floor, it is applied not with a metal, but with a rubber spatula.

Putty-sealant is used to seal deep cracks and holes in the laminate. To save deep into the cracks are inserted wooden blocks or rails, the repair agent is not applied to the entire depth, but only to upper part holes.

Shallow scratches, abrasions on the laminate (if only the top layer is slightly damaged) can be easily masked with special wax pencils.