How to attach handles to glossy drawers. Technology of installation of facade panels and sheathing using the example of cladding from the Docke company. Installation of fronts on drawers

While assembling my first chest of drawers, I encountered the problem of attaching the fronts to drawers. They did not want to take the places assigned to them according to the design; they gave constant distortions when trying to pull out a drawer with a façade positioned relative to the edges of the body for fixation. It took me seven sweats until I got a more or less acceptable result.

Subsequently, after surfing the Internet and brainstorming on my own, I identified several of the simplest and most acceptable methods for fastening drawer fronts.

To begin with, it is worth fixing the handle on the facade (after all, after installation, in most cases it will no longer be possible to get close to it. To do this, measure the distance between the holes on the handle L, transfer it to the facade so that the lowered ends of the segment L perpendiculars h And w were equal ( h1=h2 And w1=w2). We drill 2 holes with a diameter slightly larger than the fixing screws.

We should also focus on the screws for the handles. In most cases, sold furniture handles are equipped with slotted screws (top one in the picture). Such screws are inconvenient for installation on drawers because the protruding cap prevents the false wall from fitting tightly to the facade, and when deepened, their length does not allow the handle itself to be tightly screwed to the facade and the screws have to be shortened by 2-3 mm. Therefore, I recommend going to a hardware store and buying a couple of hundred exactly the same bolts, but with a countersunk head (the bottom one in the picture). They secure the handle without requiring any modification other than chamfering the inside edge of the hole.

Having removed the chamfer, we screw the handle itself. The facade is ready for installation.

Method number one -double sided tape.

As an example, I will give the process of installing fronts on drawers in a bathroom cabinet. The facades in this project are overhead, but the top cover covers their projection, and the bottom, on the contrary, “hangs” freely. Therefore, the installation of facades must begin from top to bottom.

So, we install the top drawer on the guides. It is first necessary to drill several holes (2-4 pieces) on its front false wall with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screws (26-30 mm screws are used). The holes are also chamfered under the cap.

Gap between top cover and the front should be 3 mm. It is necessary to lay something 3 mm thick between the parts (for example, I use a sheet of fiberboard). Place double-sided tape on the front false wall of the drawer.

Please note that the front false wall must be flush with the edges of the side walls, otherwise the tape simply will not stick to the facade - the sides will get in the way.

We place a strip of fiberboard between the top cover and the front, and press the front tightly against the drawer (you can place a spacer between the drawer and the back wall of the cabinet to get a stop and avoid the drawer falling inside the body. We press the front firmly against the drawer (making sure there is no lateral movement) for a few seconds, carefully pull out the drawer and screw it in first drilled holes self-tapping screws During final fixation, it is advisable to strengthen the tape with a couple of clamps.

We repeat this manipulation with the remaining boxes.

Method number two - clamps.

For the second method you will need 2 F-shaped clamps. IN in this case assembly will proceed from bottom to top. This technique is excellent for installing facades on kitchen sets(when the tabletop is not installed, the drawers can be easily accessed from above). The upper jumper (if it interferes) can be dismantled quite easily.

IN in this example the lower facade retreats from the lower edge of the box by 2 mm, the distance between the facades themselves is 3 mm, and between the tabletop and the edge of the upper facade is 4 mm.

So let's start with the bottom drawer. Before installing it, mark with a simple pencil a line 2 mm away from the bottom edge of the bottom of the cabinet. We install the box on the guides, after which we apply the already assembled facade (see above), press it lightly with clamps, then move it relative to the sides and the drawn marking line. When the façade is level, we tighten the clamps harder (do not overdo it so as not to get dents on the façade).

We take out the box and drill two holes from the inside with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw, chamfer it, and tighten the screws. We put the box back in place; if for some reason the facade has shifted, it can be adjusted by tapping it with a mallet or hammer, and then fix the result with additional screws.

Having finished with the first box, we move on to the next. We place the box on the guides and attach the front. To maintain a gap of 3 mm, we lay fiberboard between the facades, align them along the side walls and repeat all the above manipulations.

Difficulties may arise when installing the upper facade. If we are assembling a kitchen, then the jumper can be easily removed, but if the countertop or lid is already screwed on, or you don’t want to bother with removing the jumper, then we can recommend the following technique:

Pull out the penultimate and last drawers a little to a distance of 3-5 cm, install gaskets, align the upper façade relative to the previous one (with fiberboard spacers), fix it with screws, push the drawer in, remove the clamps and check for distortions. If these are found, tapping them with a mallet, we fix them and fix them with additional screws.

Method number three - precise marking.

This technique requires greater precision in marking, but additional devices (clamps, tape) are not needed. In addition, there are additional requirements and to the boxes themselves - they must be even (both diagonals have same sizes), the drawer on the guides should not swing and should be level with the top cover.

You can start from both the top and bottom drawers. We drill holes for self-tapping screws on the false wall. We measure the dimensions from the edges of the top and side walls to one of the holes (it is advisable to use a carpenter's square for this).

We transfer the same dimensions to the back side of the facade, subtracting the necessary gaps (the gap between the upper edge of the facade and the housing cover is 4 mm - indicated in the diagram h1). Celebrating on back wall facade point for the hole, make it with an awl, drill a shallow blind hole for the self-tapping screw. We fix the facade to the false wall.

The whole point of this technique is to secure the facade with one self-tapping screw. We push the drawer in, look for possible distortions, correct them, and then fix it with the remaining four screws. Even if the first connection breaks during the adjustment process, the additional three will securely secure the facade to the box.

Method number four - on the bolts to the handles.

In this case, the main fastening of the facade is carried out not with self-tapping screws, but with bolts from handles. In this case, slotted screws are suitable, but their length should be 36-37 mm). We mark and drill holes for handles on the facade (see above). We attach the front to the box embedded in the body, align it along the walls, taking into account the gaps, and mark holes for screws on the false wall with an awl. The diameter of the holes should be larger than the diameter of the screws, which will allow you to subsequently adjust the position of the facade. After the final installation of the correct position, tighten the screws. If necessary, you can further strengthen the connection with a pair of self-tapping screws.

Method number five - for minifixes

Finally, I would like to consider the most the hard way hanging facades - on. The main advantage of this technique is the saving of laminated chipboard due to the absence of the front false wall of the box. Sidewalls with guides are fixed directly on the facade. In addition to saving money, this method is more aesthetically pleasing.

In my opinion, this method of hanging facades is too labor-intensive in handicraft furniture production to put it on stream, but in the case of framed facades it is optimal.

The facade itself will also require modifications; in addition to the handle (which can be attached to standard slotted screws), you will need to use a router to select a groove 8 mm deep and 4 mm wide under the bottom of the drawer.

The marking should also be quite thorough, because... all distortions will have to be corrected only by the guides, and they can eliminate no more than 2 mm.

Minifixes can be placed both inside and outside the drawer.

Before installing the facades, the entire structure must be assembled and the drawers inserted into the chest of drawers. It is important that the product stands on a flat surface to avoid errors during installation.

Methods for installing facades

Today we will talk about one very convenient way installation furniture facades on drawers.

The method is quite simple and popular, and even if this is your first installation, you will still succeed

So, how to quickly, conveniently and without problems install a front on a drawer? For this we need:

screwdriver
screws 4*30
clamps
double sided tape
probe for determining the thickness of the gap between the facades
Before installation, the drawers (which are still without fronts) must be located in the furniture product, the product itself must be assembled and leveled (without distortions or tilts).

We take double-sided tape, cut several strips and stick them with one side on the ends of the boxes, as shown in the photo.

After this, having first removed the protective film from the tape, we will need to lean the facade against the box, but before that, even before we “glue” it, we need to align the facade as accurately as possible, both vertically and horizontally.

To ensure a horizontal gap of 3 mm (or whatever you provided when drawing up the detailing) between the facades, you can use a kind of marker - a probe. You can use a ruler of a given thickness, pieces of edge, or find another means at hand.

The hardest thing is to lean the first facade evenly, then everything will go like clockwork. It’s better to start from the bottom drawer, it will be more convenient.

After you have glued the front to the drawer using double sided tape, so that it does not “move out” when fastened with a screw, the facade with the drawer must be secured with a clamp. After fixing, near the clamping point, screw in the screws with inside boxes, in increments of 15-20 cm.

That is, to maintain a horizontal gap, we use a feeler gauge, to level the facade on the sides, we use straight arms and an even eye, or you can use a flat board, placing it vertically.

Many may argue that the tape leaves unnecessary gaps, but I have never noticed such gaps in myself, the main thing is to tighten the screws tightly.

In this simple way, you can easily and efficiently attach the fronts to the drawers.

Method 2. Without tape

We remove the clamps and install the box in place, checking the installation of the facade. If you are not entirely satisfied with the gaps, then correct them by applying light blows to the façade with a mallet and moving it in the desired direction. Then secure the facade with additional screws.

After installing the lower facade, we proceed to the next one. Between the facades you need to install a gasket with a thickness equal to the gap size of 3mm. These could be fiberboard scraps. We level the façade and clamp it with clamps.

Method 3.attached to the box using bolts that secure the handles

This method involves attaching the fronts to the drawer using bolts that secure the handles. In this case, longer bolts are used instead of standard ones.

We mark holes on the facade for bolts for handles. We drill holes. Then we apply the façade to the installed box, level it and, through the drilled holes, use an awl to mark the places for drilling on the box. Now we drill holes in the box, they should be slightly larger than the diameter of the bolts, so that if necessary, the facade can be adjusted. We screw the handle and the front to the drawer, at first not tightening the bolts too much. We level the façade and then tighten the bolts. To better fix the facade, you can additionally screw in two self-tapping screws from the inside of the drawer. I personally use this method! We drill through the façade and tighten the screws with handles and without clamps and without a clamp! It all depends on how you get used to it!

Method 4. number of holes for self-tapping screws.

To install facades using this method, you need to ensure that certain conditions are met.

After assembling the box, you need to check its diagonals, they must be equal. You also need to check the installation of the box in the box: its front false panel should be aligned relative to the front end of the box, the box should not swing.

Let's say we start the installation from the top drawer. We drill in the front false panel of the drawer required quantity holes for self-tapping screws. We put the box in place. We measure the distances to one of the holes from the top edge of the box and from the side post.

From the results obtained we subtract the size of the required gaps.

Now we transfer these dimensions to the side of the facade with which it will be pressed against the drawer, and use an awl to mark the future hole. Drill a shallow hole for the self-tapping screw. Now we screw the front to the box with a self-tapping screw. The point of this installation is to correctly secure the front to the box using one hole. And even if it breaks a little during adjustment, the remaining screws, screwed in from scratch, will provide the necessary fixation of the facade. In this case, it is important to accurately mark the hole for the self-tapping screw on the facade.

The details have been completed, the cutting has been ordered, now the most important thing remains - installing the facades.

Today we will tell you about one very convenient way to install furniture fronts on drawers.

The method is quite simple and popular, and even if this is your first installation, you will still succeed smoothly and without jambs.

So, how to quickly, conveniently and without problems install a front on a drawer? For this we need:

1. screwdriver
2. screws 4*30
3. clamp (I took it for 3 USD)
4. double sided tape
5. probe for determining the thickness of the gap between the facades

Before installation, the drawers (which are still without fronts) must be located in the furniture product, the product itself must be assembled and leveled (without distortions or tilts).

We take double-sided tape, cut several strips and stick them with one side on the ends of the boxes as shown in the photo.

After this, having first removed the protective film from the tape, we will need to lean the facade against the box, but before that, even before we “glue” it, we need to align the facade as accurately as possible both vertically and horizontally.

To ensure a horizontal gap of 3 mm (or whatever you provided when drawing up the detailing) between the facades, you can use a kind of marker - a probe. You can use a ruler of a given thickness, pieces of edge, or find another means at hand.

The hardest thing is to lean the first facade evenly, then everything will go like clockwork. It’s better to start from the bottom drawer, it will be more convenient.

After you attach the facade to the drawer using double-sided tape, in order for it to “not move” when fastened with a screw, the facade with the drawer must be secured with a clamp. After fixing it near the clamping point, we screw in the screws from the inside of the box, in increments of 15-20 cm.

That is, to maintain the horizontal gap we use a feeler gauge, to level the facade on the sides we use straight arms and an even eye. Or you can use a flat board and place it vertically.

Many may argue that the tape leaves unnecessary gaps, but I have never noticed such gaps in myself, the main thing is to tighten the screws tightly.

In this simple way you can easily and efficiently attach the fronts to the drawers.

Home craftsmen often have to assemble furniture with their own hands. This happens both when purchasing ready-made interior items and when self-production cabinets, cabinets, tables and the like. At the same time correct fastening guides for a wide variety of drawers becomes a real stumbling block. Despite the apparent simplicity of this work, installation errors can lead to dire consequences. In the process of further use of the furniture, serious difficulties may arise. Therefore, it is important to immediately determine the type of guides themselves and the method of their installation.

Types of guides

On at the moment There are 2 main types of guides that are installed on a drawer. These are roller and ball systems. There are also other designs: hidden, with closers, telescopic, and so on. But they don’t install them with their own hands. This installation is carried out in a factory setting.

Roller guides usually consist of 2 strips with perforations for fasteners. Plastic wheels are attached to the ends of the structures. Thanks to them, the drawers slide out.

Figure 1. Types of guides.

Such systems have a number of significant disadvantages:

1. When in use, the drawers make an unpleasant sound.
2. The wheels are unreliable and quickly become unusable.
3. If there is a strong pull, the box may fall out of its intended slot.

But such guides also have advantages. They are cheap and easy to install.

Ball systems are also called full extension guides. This telescopic design, which allows you to extend the drawer to the full length of the bar. Inside the system there are metal balls that ensure smooth and almost silent movement.

The main difference between roller and ball systems is that the first one consists of 2 profiles independent from each other, and the second one is one-piece. In the first case, 1 strip is attached directly to the wall of the box, and the 2nd – to the furniture. The rollers are disassembled only during installation. And when assembled they look like a solid structure. It is this feature that ensures the reliability of the fastenings: the storage space does not fall out even with a strong tug. The appearance of different guides is shown in Fig. 1.

At the moment you can find guides in stores different sizes. This allows you to select a ready-made design for interior items of any type and depth. As a rule, roller systems are placed on boxes that are not expected to bear heavy loads. They can be found in linen and clothing closets, kitchen modules (for example, for storing cutlery), and hallways. Ball structures are placed on linen drawers of beds and furniture intended for children's rooms.

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Installation of roller elements

Figure 2. Scheme of fastening roller guides.

Whatever type of drawer mounting you choose, you will need the following tools:

• drill with a thin wood drill bit;
• screwdriver with travel limiter;
• a set of screwdrivers with various blades (flat and Phillips).

Also, don't forget to have your measuring tools ready. You will need a tape measure or a long ruler and a square.

All necessary marks can be made with a simple pencil or colored chalk. The installation diagram of roller guides is shown in Fig. 2.

The process of installing guide systems on drawers occurs in 3 stages:

1. Marking furniture walls and storage areas.
2. Installing the bar on the drawer.
3. Installing strips on furniture.

Figure 3. Diagram of the ball guides.

If you follow this sequence, you will be able to avoid possible mistakes.

The guide can be installed anywhere. But usually they are mounted strictly in the middle of the wall (this makes it easier to determine the location of the structure on the furniture) or flush with the top or bottom of the box. But roller systems are most often installed on the bottom edge.

It is wiser not only to mark the places for screwing in self-tapping screws, but also to drill them. This will ensure that the screw does not split the wood. You need to determine the location of the fasteners immediately both on the drawer and on the wall of the furniture.

The master should remember that the thickness of this type of guides is 1.25 cm. Accordingly, the width of the drawer should be 2.5 cm narrower than the internal width of the furniture (both sides are taken into account). Otherwise, the retractable structure will not fit into the housing. For freer movement, add 1-2 mm to this gap.

The length of the screws is selected based on the wall thickness.

The fastener head must firmly fix the guide, but not rise above the bar. In this case, the sting should not penetrate through the wall. First, the guides are fixed on the drawer, and then on the furniture. After which the storage system is placed in its designated place.

Not every homeowner allows it financial condition decorate the house stone tiles or decorative brick. It's not just the cost of materials, but also the complexity and high cost of installation. To insulate and give the house a more aesthetic appearance, there are special facade panels. Such panels have many advantages, including a low price.

The main advantage is easy solution in the improvement of the building. The panels are very simple products, which became popular thanks to their external qualities. They are able to turn an ordinary building into a beautiful and well-kept home.

The first thing you should pay attention to is the price. Facade panels are made of high-quality and inexpensive polymer. The production of such panels is much cheaper than the production facade bricks And decorative stones.

The installation method differs. If for panels a few fasteners and screws are enough, then for brick and stone much more is needed. Stone and brick take much longer to lay, due to the nature of their installation - cement, sand, and water are required. In addition, the stones must be adjusted to each other. The panels are pre-installed installed frame. Under them can be installed various insulation materials from mineral wool and foam plastic.

What are the panels for?

First of all, panels were invented not only as a means of decorating the facade of a building, but also as a way to hide additional insulation. Their main advantage is that in the space between the panel and the wall, where there are frame wastes, you can additionally put a layer of insulation.

Unlike decorative stones and bricks, this method of improving the facade additionally insulates and allows you to retain heat inside the building. In addition, as already mentioned, the panels are very easy to install with your own hands, without the use of third-party equipment, materials and people.

Advantages of facade panels

This method of finishing the facade was invented as a cheap alternative. In addition, installing this kind of facade and accompanying structures yourself is much easier and faster than laying out a facade from tiles, bricks and other materials. In addition, the plastic from which the products are made is durable.

Convenience during use is also noted. This façade can be easily washed with water from a hose. In addition, this method of finishing the facade allows you to simultaneously insulate the building itself. Additional components or special panels are used.

A significant advantage of polymer panels is that they can be given any shape and visual design. The panels are painted to match various materials - wood, bricks and stones. This is their versatility.

The most important thing is not only the low cost of the panels themselves, but also related materials. The work requires a minimum of materials and effort. Disadvantages include the susceptibility of some products to mechanical damage. Another drawback is that if one of the components of the facade is damaged, it will be necessary not only to replace the corresponding part, but also to dismantle the entire facade. However, this is much better and cheaper than replacing and repairing a facade made from natural materials.

Basic rules for installing panels

Before installing facade panels, you need to choose the material from which they will be made, design and shape. In addition, preparation also includes acquiring consumables(screws, dowels) and tools (screwdrivers, grinders, screwdrivers). Here the main advantage over brick and stone is observed - there is no need to purchase cement or sand.

In addition, the panel itself can not only decorate the walls of the building, but also the foundation. The building will look strong and, at the same time, an elegant monolith.

Next, you should take preliminary measurements of the house itself. This is necessary to determine the square footage of the panels and approximate the number of screws and dowels. After taking measurements, it would be best to draw out the approximate location of the panels and create the frame structure itself. This general scheme work on installing the future facade of the house.

Schematically, the preparation looks like this:

The most important rule for installing panels is to follow the diagram. The first layer, the first panel laid down, is the most important part. If it is installed incorrectly, you will have to redo the entire structure in the future. A level should be used to determine the installation angle of each panel. In this way, it is possible to avoid uneven laying of panels.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Types of facade panels

Choose the material from which the panels will be made. Today, in addition to polymer panels, there are metal panels that are more durable. At the same time, plastic retains heat better. At this stage, the issue of the appearance of the facade is also decided. Panels can be stylized as wood, decorative brick, stone and much more. There are a huge number of design solutions.

These are the most popular and popular panels. There are certain differences not only in the material, but also in the installation of the facade itself. Each type of future facade will be different in appearance.

Prices for various facade panels

Facade panels

Installation of metal siding

Everything starts identically: materials are prepared, drawn schematically future design, installation is underway. The profiles are installed in accordance with the drawn diagram at right angles to the base of the house in increments of 50 cm. The supporting profiles must be secured with dowels.

After installing the vertical profiles, it is necessary to install transverse bulkheads. Here you will need to make tabs on each side of the panel for attaching to the profile. There are ready-made frames, but such structures have a clear drawback - they must be attached directly to the walls of the house. If the wall is made of foam concrete, then such a frame may collapse. It is also not recommended to install the frame on sand-lime brick. Red brick walls are also not suitable for a finished frame. In addition, such structures are more expensive than those installed by yourself.

After the bulkheads have been installed, various types of insulation can be inserted into the resulting rectangles.

Once the insulation is installed, the panels can be secured to the frame. Each panel has holes for screws. This allows you to hide the seams and not interfere with the aesthetic appearance of the facade.

Schematically the installation looks like this.

Stage 1. Drawing up a diagram of the house and the future frame for the panels.

Stage 2. Cleaning the building of unnecessary decorative elements.

Stage 3. Production of an external frame on the walls of a building or installation of a ready-made one.

Stage 4. Installation of flashing, starting strip and the very first row of panels. A level is used to determine the correct angle.

Stage 5. The following rows are installed followed by fastening to the frame.

We insert the next panel into the locking part of the previous one and repeat the installation

Stage 6. Installation of the finishing strip, soffits and decorative elements.

In the future, similar installation elements are saved for each type of panel. This is also a plus of the panels - their installation is similar, which means you can easily learn how to install the facade.

Metal siding is a good option for a summer house and one-story house. Such panels perfectly replicate the effect of wood. In addition, the products are perfectly processed without unnecessary tools. Easy care - just wash the contaminated part of the house with water.

File for download. Production of metal siding installation works

Prices for popular models of multifunctional cutters

Multifunctional cutter

Decorative panels for tiles (clinker)

Relatively new material, giving an aesthetic appearance to the facade and insulating the house at the same time. Such panels have two components - a base made of insulation and an outer covering. The coating can be stylized to resemble any material - brick, stone, etc.

Such panels are attached very quickly, due to simple way. For fastening you will need a spatula, construction adhesive, and a prepared frame. The latter is not necessary, since such panels can be mounted directly on the wall. The frame serves to install an additional layer of insulation.

The panels are attached as follows: a solution of construction adhesive is applied to a notched trowel. Regarding the mortar, each tile manufacturer specifies the formula of proportions required for installation. The glue is applied to the product, which is applied to external wall or frame. Afterwards, the panel comes off after three minutes and is attached to the surface again. This method is necessary in order to increase adhesion strength.

Between the joints, the panels can be sealed with construction adhesive, and for additional strength, the panels are secured with screws. The only drawback of such panels is their high cost. In return, you not only receive beautiful facade, but also a warm home.

Most likely this is best option not only improving the appearance of the building facade, but also insulation. Such panels look the most attractive because they take the form various materials and products made from them. The house can turn into a stone fortress.

In addition, in the event of damage to one of the parts of the facade, there is no need to disassemble the entire structure. All you have to do is pick the right size panel, remove the damaged one and install a new one.

The main recommendation is to install in the warm season, since the glue may not harden properly when low temperatures, and the entire structure will not adhere firmly to the wall. Each manufacturer indicates on the packaging at what air temperatures it is most appropriate to mount the panel.

Video - Installation, insulation with thermal panels

Video - Installation of facade thermal panels (PPU) with clinker tiles

Fiber cement panels for plaster

Such products have a number of advantages over others:

• the weight of such products is insignificant, there is no load on the walls and frame;
• high thermal insulation. In addition, you can additionally install insulation between the frame and the panel;
• good condensate drainage. The walls of such a facade seem to “breathe”.

However, such panels are not without drawbacks. The most important of them is fragility. Products are subject to mechanical damage. At the same time, replacing one panel entails recycling the entire frame.

Another advantage is the installation method. Such panels are installed in the same way as the above metal siding panels.

Step by step, the entire installation looks like this:

Video - Installation instructions for façade panels

Perhaps one of the most expensive types panels, but the most beautiful. The panels are made from pressed sawdust and processed special solutions for strength and durability. However, if you do not take care of such a façade regularly (once every two seasons), it quickly becomes unusable. Moreover, this method finishes will suit only for one-story houses, since the panels are heavy, the frame may not support it.

As with metal siding, wooden panels are attached to a prepared frame. Installation methods are identical:

The above panels can be replaced with longer ones. The advantage of such panels is that they are fixed directly to the wall one after another in a row. The length of such products is 6 meters. It's more quick way installations. But in order to carry out work on the facade, at least two people are needed. One person cannot do this job, as the panels may not be installed correctly.

In order to cut off the unnecessary part of the panel, it is recommended to use a grinder. It will most quickly cope with such a product and evenly cut off part of the panel.

The complexity of such products lies in their mass. It is best to call an assistant for installation. So, the process will be optimally fast and correct.

Polyvinyl chloride panels

PVC siding is the simplest and cheap way decorate the façade of the building. Such panels are popular for several reasons: ease of installation; low cost; Huge color options. Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting that such panels are made of plastic and any facade will look plastic even at the farthest distance.

This type of panel is installed exclusively horizontally. To work, you will need a construction knife or any other knife. In addition, you will need a hammer drill. You will also need a level to determine the angle of the panels, as well as a hammer for driving nails.

Initial stage PVC installations panels is a preliminary inspection of the house. It is necessary to determine the location of the first row of panels. In the case of a new building, it is recommended to install the panels from the beginning of the foundation. Also, PVC panels can be installed from the initial row of the old finish.

Next, you should install the initial frame, namely: corners, both external and internal, platbands, first strips for attaching panels. Installation begins from the corners. The gap between them and the cornice should not be more than 6.5 mm.

The most important stage, on which the future fate of the entire facade will depend, is the installation of the first strip of panels. It is important to install the first strip of fasteners as correctly as possible, since the fastening of the panel itself depends on it. If the strip was laid evenly, then the panel will be even.

It is necessary to install trims, ebbs and trims on windows and doors. And after the completed stages, the installation of all other rows of the facade begins. The top panel is inserted into the profile and hammered in with a nail, but not completely. There should be an interval of 0.4 cm between panels, and no more than 6 mm between other components. In order to avoid vertical overlaps, it is recommended to install the panels at half the factory mark. This way the joints will not be visible from the front side.

When installing panels, you must remember that parts of the products will need to be cut off. For this purpose it is used construction knife. A ruler and level are also needed to more accurately measure the angle and draw a straight line on the product. We draw a line on the panel in the place where we need to cut off the piece, and carefully draw it with a knife several times. The advantage of plastic is that it is ideal for such manipulations.

You need to be extremely careful because mechanical damage very visible on such material.

Such panels are most in demand due to their ease of installation and low cost. Besides, PVC products They can be installed at various building heights because they are very light. Installation of such panels is simple and does not require much time.

The final step is to install the top row of panels. For the top row, only complete panels are needed. In addition, the last panel is closed with a special profile for drainage.

Video - Installation of basement siding

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

If you pay attention to the installation methods, there are no fundamental differences. There are certain nuances that should be taken into account when installing the panels yourself:

1. The bottom layer is the most important. Level or installed panel- this is the key to correct and successful work. If installed incorrectly, there is a high probability of replacing the entire structure.

   

2. The frame is an important component. In addition to clinker panels, other products require a frame. It will minimize the load on the walls of the house and distribute it correctly. In addition, thanks to the frame, various insulation materials can be installed in the space between the wall and the tile.

   

   

3. The seams of the panels hide perfectly behind each other when installed correctly.

   

4. The number of tools is minimal - you need a construction knife (preferably) to cut off excess parts of the panels, a screwdriver, a level, a ruler. In addition, installing the panels will not take much time.
5. If you find it difficult to install the panel yourself, without a specialist, hiring one person is enough. In the future, observing the work, you can easily repeat all the work done for other buildings.
6. Large field for design solutions. Most of the products are stylized as stone, wood and decorative brick. The house will look rich and elegant.

   

This is what a person needs to know if he decides to install the panels on his own. The process is not characterized by technical complexity. It is necessary to act carefully and carefully to achieve the desired result.

Comparison of different panels

There are both pros and cons of each type facade panels. Everyone has strengths and weak.

The fundamental differences will be in the price and durability of the products. Of course, each of the above options has its own individual characteristics, which is why such panels are chosen.

It is worth noting that the panels are created not only to improve the appearance of the building, but also to hide various types of insulation. Moreover, the panels allow you to hide not one, but even two or three layers of insulation. It all depends on the type of product, the height of the frame and the correct installation.

In addition, panels can and should be used to insulate not only residential premises. Such a move as insulation and the use of panels for the facade of the building is used on industrial enterprises. For large premises This is a huge plus in terms of heat savings inside the building. For industry, PVC panels are most in demand due to the price-quality ratio.

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the place of work. Elements need to be dismantled storm system, lamps and more. This is necessary in order not to damage the panels themselves and related products.

Installation of panels must be careful. They need to slide on top of each other to fit easily. correct position the corresponding panel. After all the panels are installed and secured, the result is obvious - a smooth and beautiful wall.

It is not necessary to seal the resulting overlaps. It would be most correct not to use such sealants, since they will disrupt heat exchange and the removal of condensate from the building.

The knife is one of the most necessary tools. With its help it is necessary to adjust the length of the panels. In the case of metal siding and wood panels, the knife is replaced with a grinder. It must be remembered that straight corners necessary for proper joining of panels.

After installing the facade, the most important thing is maintenance. If you care for the panels properly, the structure will not lose appearance and will last for a very long time.

Video - Procedure for cladding a house