Download step-by-step instructions for laying a heating stove. How to make a stove for a cottage out of brick with your own hands: masonry rules and step-by-step instructions. Heating stove V. Bykov

Do-it-yourself stove, drawings, videos that you watch will help you get an idea of ​​how a three-channel heating kitchen brick stove is made.

Let's look at the order of the oven, which we will make with our own hands:
First

Second

We install a blower door measuring 130x140 (mm)

Third

Fourth

Instead of cast iron doors for cleaning channels, we will install two halves of brick on the edge.

Fifth

Sixth

We lay a grate measuring 370x240 (mm). To install it, we cut a niche in the bricks so that there is a gap of one centimeter around the perimeter of the grate.

Seventh

We cut two bricks at an angle of forty-five degrees towards the grate to roll the coals into the firebox.
We install the first smoke valve, which, when open, provides summer mode ovens.
We will install a combustion door measuring 250x180 (mm).

Eighth

Ninth

Tenth

We grind down the edges of the brick in the shape of an oval, for better passage of gases with the least resistance.

To clean the channels, install half a brick on the edge.

Eleventh

Let's cut grooves in the bricks to install a kitchen stove measuring 300x720 (mm).

Twelfth

Thirteenth

Fourteenth

Likewise, the twelfth.

Fifteenth

Grind down the edges of the brick into an oval shape.

Sixteenth

Seventeenth

Eighteenth

Nineteenth

We install the second smoke damper.
Twentieth, the order is the same as the eighteenth.

Twenty first

In addition, you can watch the video for a complete understanding of the masonry process

This is how you can assemble an inexpensive stove with your own hands.

Design and diagrams of stoves for the home

1.Masonry diagram heating stove two tiers
2. Laying a square stove with bottom heating
3. Schemes of stoves for the home with preferential bottom heating
4. Furnace laying designed by V.

Grum-Grzhimailo
5. Laying a furnace created by the Thermotechnical Institute

Conventionally, heating stoves can be divided into two categories: modern devices and outdated designs. Instead of used long time of imperfect heating units, manufacturing companies produce improved ones based on latest technologies models of heating devices.

But in private households and countryside country houses Heating brick stoves are still widely used, and the designs of stoves for the home are very diverse.

Unfortunately, from year to year there are fewer and fewer experienced stove makers who can repair or remodel them.

Currently classic wood stoves for houses, which have characteristic advantages, do not serve to heat rooms, but to give the interior uniqueness and originality.

Layout diagram of a two-tier heating stove

The design of the two-tier heating stoves shown in the photo is a structure of two parts located one on top of the other.

The parameters of each of them are 165x51x238 centimeters. The heat output of the lower part of the furnace is 3200 kcal per hour, and the upper part is 2600 kcal/hour.

Furnaces for private households are provided with a brick lining with voids in order to lighten the weight of the structure and save material consumption. Both parts of two-tier ovens have exactly the same structure.

Such heating units use a ductless smoke circulation system. According to the furnace laying diagram, gases from the firebox enter the upper bell with a nozzle. After cooling, the gases fall down and, at the location of the bottom of the firebox, escape through the undercut into the mounted smoke exhaust pipe.
At the bottom stove, the chimney runs through the top half of the structure. For this reason, the latter of them has a smaller heating surface.

The top of the structure has a separate chimney.

The construction of a two-tier heating furnace is characterized by the simplicity of bricklaying, and the gas movement pattern is simple. The lower half of the unit is cleaned through a door located in the rear wall, and for the upper part, such a door is located in the side wall (for more details: “Heating stoves for the home - do-it-yourself masonry”).

For the functioning of the heating structure, coal or anthracite is used. The pipes for both parts are equipped with two smoke valves.

Usually top part voids in two-tier heating stoves are covered with solid reinforced concrete slabs, which contributes to the strength and stability of the entire structural mass.

The laying of such stoves must be carried out at a high professional level, since their alteration or repair is not an easy task (read: “How to repair a brick stove with your own hands”).

The chimney for the lower part of the two-tier heating structure should be laid out carefully.
If there are leaks in the masonry, the wall separating both pipes at the top will allow heat to pass through even if the two smoke valves are closed.

If desired, you can combine them into a single array different types furnaces having a rectangular or square shape and operating on various types fuel.

Do-it-yourself stove laying diagrams

Laying a square stove with bottom heating

The stove in the photo is different in combination or mixed system smoke circulation. The parameters of this design are 102x102x238 centimeters. Its heat output is 4200 kcal/hour.

Construction of heating furnaces square shape with bottom heating suggests that the firebox in it has a relatively high height.

Side openings located symmetrically on both sides (2 pieces each) serve to drain gas into the chambers. They are located in the outer side walls of the structure.

The gas then descends through chambers connected by a channel under the firebox behind the ash compartment.

From the side chambers, gases enter the risers through the lower vents and rise upward along them.

There, the side chambers all together form the so-called upper cap, which consists of three cavities U-shaped. These cavities are located parallel. The heated gases are retained in the upper part of the middle and rear of them, and the already cooled waste products pass through the holes into the front plane, which at the top is connected to the mounted smoke exhaust pipe and evaporate into the atmosphere. Read also: “Heating stoves under development.”

Consequently, the diagrams of stoves for a square-shaped house with bottom heating include 3 hoods - an upper hood and 2 large chambers.

In such a heating structure, any type of solid fuel can be used.
If it is planned that the stove will operate on hard coal or anthracite, the walls of the firebox should be laid exclusively from refractory bricks.

Schemes of stoves for the home with primary bottom heating

If the heating structure has a predominant bottom heating, its size, as a rule, is 115x56x231 centimeters with a heat transfer of 2640 kcal/hour.

In accordance with the smoke circulation system, this stove is classified as a combined duct heating unit with bottom heating.

When a stove heating scheme for a private house is created using such a design, it is understood that the flue gases from the firebox will first descend and then rise along the riser to the roof (read also: “Kuznetsov’s heating stoves: do-it-yourself drawings and ordering”).

From there, along two parallel passages, they will go down to the 16th row of brickwork, and then go into the last of the risers, which turns into a chimney.

The above design is different rational decision and simplicity, since it can provide good heating of the furnace in its lower part and it has self-regulation of gas movement in both channels located in the upper part, which acts as a cap with a nozzle.
The operating principle of the design allows air to pass through the bottom of the hood without cooling down.

The laying of this stove is simple to implement and it can be built in the partition of the room in such a way that the fuel door and the front wall will open into the corridor.

The unit can be operated on coal and wood.

Furnace masonry designed by V. Grum-Grzhimailo

The ductless heating furnace layout shown in the photo was developed by Professor V.

Grum-Grzhimailo. There is no smoke circulation in this heating design. It has a round shape and is placed in a case made of sheet steel. Gases move in the furnace not due to the draft created by the chimney, but under the influence of gravity. As a result, cooled and heavier gases sink to the bottom, and light, hot gases rise to the top.

This home stove device consists of two parts - the firebox is located at the bottom.

In its roof there is a small khailo (mouth) that provides passage flue gases in the upper part, which represents a chamber without smoke circulation.
It looks like an overturned cap, shaped like a glass.

Due to this feature, such heating structures are called ductless or bell-type.

The heated gases in them do not enter their mouths into the chimney, since they first go up under the roof, and when cooled, they descend along the walls to the base.

From here they enter the chimney and are carried away into the atmosphere under the influence of draft. One vertical cut is located across the firebox, and the second horizontal cut is located along it.

Along the walls of the structure, from the ceiling towards the vault, there are buttresses designed to increase the internal heat absorption surface and to better absorb heat from the exhaust gases into the brick mass.

The fins heated by gases allow the stove to retain heat for a longer time.

The efficiency of the design developed by Grum-Grzhimailo reaches 80%. The iron case allows you to make masonry with a thickness of only a quarter of a brick, despite the fact that the unit heats up quite quickly. Read also: “Which brick stove is better for the home - types, advantages and disadvantages.”

Creating this oven is not difficult.

Its advantage is as follows:

- in the case when the smoke valve on the pipe is not closed tightly, the upper part of the device will not cool down from the cold air entering the firebox.

Air entering the fuel compartment through the cracks in the ash pan and fuel door rises through the mouth. But since it is heavier than the hot gases in the bell, it immediately overflows into the side channels and goes into the chimney. As a result, the entire part under the heat is not subject to cooling.

As for the disadvantages of stoves for a home of this design, the main one is the predominant heating of the upper part. To neutralize this disadvantage a little, it is necessary to make holes in the walls of the firebox in the 5th row of brickwork.

The stove operates perfectly on lean coal and anthracite. If the unit is heated with wood, especially damp wood, the cracks between the buttresses will become clogged with soot. It will be quite difficult to clean them, since the cleaning doors are located in the 8th row, which does not allow you to completely get into all the spaces of the buttresses and then the smoke will enter the main pipe.

Channelless structures, created on the principle of free movement of gases, are made in rectangular or square shapes.

They are performed either in metal case or without it. In the second case, the walls of the cap should be made thicker to half a brick. Read also: “Brick shield for a metal furnace.”

Laying a furnace created by the Thermotechnical Institute

Schemes of home stoves, developed at the Thermotechnical Institute by engineer Kovalevsky, have dimensions of 100x85x217 centimeters.

They use a shaft-type firebox designed for the use of coal.

Through the channel, flue gases enter under the roof, from where they enter two side channels. Then they follow to the very bottom and move through the collection channel into the smoke riser. If the smoke valve is open, then the gases are vented to the atmosphere.
The peculiarity of the furnace arrangement lies in the different thickness of the walls of the smoke circulation channels.

The first of them, coming from the firebox, is called the fire channel. It has an outer wall 3/4 brick thick. The rest of its walls are made of half a brick.

This heating structure does not fit into an iron casing. Its masonry is simple.

The efficiency of engineer Kovalevsky's furnace is 75-80%. The disadvantage of the heating unit is the possibility of overheating its upper part, since the hottest gases are directed into it. They will reach the bottom of the oven completely cooled, as a result of which the degree of heating of the lower part is insufficient.

A certain amount of gases from the firebox enters the side channels through the screws, which increases the heating of the lower part of the outer walls (read also: “Gas stove for the home - convenient heating”).

Smoke circulation systems are freed from soot deposits by cleaning them. The grate can be pulled out and this makes it easier to maintain the combustion chamber by draining slag into an ash pan or a steel box located under the grate. The smoke in the structure is discharged into a mounted pipeline.

Today, these brick kilns are preferred by owners to build country houses and country houses.

In the struggle to save fuel, and therefore money, improved designs began to appear.

Now there are a considerable number different types new heating devices, which you can also pay attention to.

An interesting diagram of a home stove is shown in the video:

Furnace laying

We first lay out the bricks of the first row without mortar, taking into account the seam according to the order. Having determined the position of the corner bricks, we place them on the mortar, using a level to check the horizontality. With light blows of a mallet we knock down the protruding bricks. Having achieved horizontality, we fill the perimeter of the first row with bricks on mortar, controlling the masonry with a level.

Using a tape measure, we check the dimensions of the stove in plan and diagonally. The diagonals in the rectangle must be equal. If the diagonals are not equal, then we knock down the corner bricks until we achieve their equality, thereby obtaining parallelism of the sides of the perimeter. After this, we lay the middle of the first row with bricks on the mortar.

Having laid the first row, we lay the corner bricks of the second row, controlling the verticality of the corners using a level or plumb line. Similarly to the first row, we first lay out the perimeter, and then the middle of the second row according to the order.

Having laid out the second row, we hammer 80-100mm long nails into the corners in the seam between the first and second rows.

Then we lower the plumb line one by one to all corners of the second row and mark on the ceiling the points from which the plumb line was lowered.

Then we hammer the same nails into these points, tie the nylon cord to the corresponding nails and tighten it.

We check the verticality of the cords with a plumb line. If there are deviations, we eliminate them by bending the upper nails. Thus, a contour of the furnace in space is obtained. We lay the subsequent rows by controlling the verticality of the corners along the cords, which significantly reduces the time required for control.

We place the subsequent rows similarly to the first two, checking each row with the order.

As the laying proceeds, we clean the internal and external surfaces of excess squeezed out mortar with a trowel. After laying out every 4-5 rows, we wipe the walls of the chimneys with a wet rag.

The thickness of the seam of the stove masonry should be as thin as possible.

How to build a brick oven with your own hands

In thick joints, the mortar crumbles and the masonry becomes fragile. The solution should tightly fill the seam, squeezing out of it. During laying, we follow the rule of tying bricks. Each vertical seam must be overlapped by the brick of the next top row.

Typically, such a seam runs through the middle of the brick lying above. This, however, cannot always be achieved. In some places it is necessary to lay bricks so that the overlap is less than half the length of the brick. In any case, it should be at least a quarter of the length of the brick.

It is better to lay out the furnace firebox from fireclay bricks, because

it can withstand higher temperatures. Bandaging the seams of fireclay and fireclay masonry kiln brick not desirable due to different linear expansion coefficients.

Therefore, either a whole row is laid out of fireclay bricks, or the furnace lining is made on an edge. We leave a gap of at least 5 mm between the lining and the fireclay brick.

Installation of cleanout and blower doors

Before installing the door, we check for a tight fit of the door leaf to the frame, free rotation of the door leaf in the hinges, absence of distortions, the possibility of fixing their closure and the presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.

We eliminate any detected defects before installation or replace the door.

We insert a 50-60 cm long knitting wire into the door holes, fold it in half and twist it.

Apply mortar to the brickwork where the door is installed. We install the door, check the verticality and horizontality and fix it with bricks.

Then we put the ends of the wire into the masonry seams.

Grate installation

When installing stove appliances, you must remember that cast iron and brick do not expand equally when heated.

This especially affects the behavior of devices installed in the area high temperatures. If they are tightly walled up in stove masonry, then when heated, the cast iron will tear the masonry. Therefore, the grate, fire door and stove should be installed with gaps. We lay the grate without mortar with a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides. It should be freely removable for replacement in case of burnout or breakage.

Installation of the furnace door

The combustion door is installed in the same way as the blower door, only it is wrapped with asbestos to fill it temperature gap.

We check the verticality and horizontality of the door and fix it with bricks and boards.

If the furnace is used intensively, the wire may burn out. To prevent this, the top of the door can be secured with a clamp. The clamp is made of strip steel with a cross-section of 25x2.0 mm. The ears should protrude 100-120 mm beyond the door frame.

The clamp is attached to the door using rivets or bolts with nuts.

The door is closed by hanging half a brick on each side

or a brick into a castle.

For an opening larger than 250 mm, the overlap is made with a wedge lintel.

Installation of the stove

First lay out the row on which the slab will be installed without mortar.

Place the slab on top and outline its location. Then we select a groove in the brick, taking into account a temperature gap of 5 mm in all directions from the slab. We lay the brick on the mortar. We fill the groove with mortar, place an asbestos cord in it around the perimeter of the slab, lower the slab into place and push it down with a mallet, making sure it is level and horizontal.

Oven installation

The oven is also wrapped with asbestos around the perimeter and half a brick wide.

The side of the oven facing the firebox is lined with bricks on edge, and the top is coated with a 25-30 mm layer of mortar to prevent burning of the oven walls.

Laying arches and vaults

When laying stoves, it is often necessary to block various combustion openings, fireboxes and various chambers, using simple and complex shape. The ceiling in the wall is called an arch, and the ceiling arranged between the walls is called a vault.

The number of bricks in the arch and rows in the vault should be odd. The middle odd brick is a castle brick.

Any jumper begins with laying the heels, which are made according to the template. Since the height of the arch or vault varies, the angle of the heel also changes.

You cannot use one heel shape for all arches and vaults.

These photographs show the installation of the circle and the laying of the arched ceiling of the barbecue firebox.

And the following photographs show the laying of the vault to cover the niche for firewood.

They say that it is better to see once than to read 100 times, so especially for you I have prepared a video guide “Do-it-yourself stoves”, which shows all the nuances of laying a brick stove in video format.

I define the basic rules for laying a stove, which may not even be known to the stove journalist or the person who decided to turn on the stove:

The weight of the stove with a pipe installed without a base should not exceed 750 kg.

This is about 0.5 m of walls or 200 bricks.
If you lay the base of the stove, you should check the possibility of switching the chimney between load-bearing beams in the attic and tiles.
The base of the stove should not be tied to the base of the house, and the stove structure should not be covered by the supporting structures of the building.

You can allow them to sit in areas of cutting and swelling. This is done in order to avoid damage to the slab in the event of unequal distribution of the house.
Wooden elements houses and smoke should be at least a quarter of a meter.
If the kiln should not be closed, the water for the wall mortar should be drinking water or rain water without salt, otherwise all the salt on the surface of the brick will appear in the form white coating.
Mortar sand should be used from a quarry (not a river) because river sand particles have a rounded surface, which makes the mortar brittle.
The stove and fireplace are a brick column with clay mortar.

And even the smallest heel or side impacts from the load-bearing structures of home cracks form, which can cause a fire.

What to Look for When Making Masonry Bricks

Protect yourself and make sure the oven lasts as long as possible - this is the main task of building a strong foundation, horizontal wall and the verticality of the massage itself.

Therefore, after laying the foundation, the upper platform must be carefully planned. A layer of roofing felt is applied to it, 1-2 cm of sand is poured on top and leveled, and the first colorless brick is laid. Reinstall the gasket and press the hammer into the protruding bricks. The horizontalness of each line is checked using the level specified in the rule. The squareness of the first row is checked by comparing the length of the diagonal.

As you place each row, check its flatness using a rule on the wall. After installing the two types, to ensure the verticality of the stove box, you need to pull out 1-3mm thick strings in the corners of the wall.

The ceiling attachment points are determined by the towing line. Higher up, the water line drops so that the weight drops to the top of the outer corner of the stove. On the floor on the ceiling from which the groove is lowered, the nail is tilted and a rope is attached to it. At the lower end the second nail is tied and pulls the rope, insert the nail under corner brick first row so that the cable is strictly stretched along the corner.

Then the vertical rope is exposed to the tray, which bends the top nail in the desired direction. So repeat all four corners.
The seams should be 5 mm thick. To do this, place laying strips along the edges of the seam, spread the mortar, place the brick and press it into place with a blow of the handle. After the solution has dried, remove the spacers.
External walls should not have more than two types without stitching, otherwise cracks may occur.
The proportion of bricks can be obtained using a Bulgarian, and the wall should be kept to a minimum, since the brick is more susceptible to destruction.
The cigarette parts are located side by side in the seams.
In the area changing the flow direction of the smoky bottom, the door is always identified as a cleaning hole, or better "brick pushing" that extends 5-10mm from the wall is easier to understand than necessary cleaning chimney.
The spacer should be planned so that the brick does not rest solely on the door frame or oven, and is closed over them or be made with a wedge lock or vault.

This is done to simplify the replacement of unsuccessful furnace equipment.
Clamps (narrow metal profiles) as well as other steel parts should be used less, since the metal takes longer to heat up than clay and can no longer be damaged by this coupling. To avoid this, place the steel strips loosely, without mortar or wrapped in a layer of asbestos.

The oven door, including the oven, is positioned so that it can be heated without touching the wall. If you want to do this, you can use asbestos with a 5mm layer where you come into contact with the vineyard.
The grate and cast iron plate are laid with a minimum pitch of 5 mm on all sides so that they can be easily removed for replacement.

Place them without mortar (you can place the plate on asbestos or asbestos layer) and fill the slots with sand.
The grates should be placed in the firebox under smoke smoke up to 70-150 mm, so as not to fall out when the coal door is opened, and placed along the firebox recesses, and the ashes will be difficult to clear the poker when preparing the stove for subsequent lighting.
Doors and corners must be fixed into the wall, which is screwed into the holes and steel wire with two-strand wires.

At the other ends, twist past the nail and pull the wire, keeping it in the nearest vertical seam.
The space between the oven and the side wall of the oven should be covered with bricks.
The length of the chimney, regardless of the chimney frame, should not exceed 7 m, otherwise the draft will be insufficient and smoke will originate in the chimney.
Chimney walls must be smooth and level.

To the solution in the chicken, the vertical channels do not reach the inside of the stove, and the foam plug is wrapped in a damp cloth and suspended inside the chimney on a wire.

Remove and clean it periodically, make a canopy out of the channel with a damp cloth.
For fire safety, the distance from the oven ceiling to the ceiling must be at least 35 cm.
For the same purpose, the floor must consist of at least three types of continuous blocks.
To protect the floor under the fireplace stove, place a metal heating sheet.
The approximate ratio of the size of the fireplace inlet to the surface of the heated area is 1:70.
The ratio of the cross-sectional area of ​​a rectangular tube at a height of 5 m to the area of ​​the entrance to the fireplace should be approximately 13%, the height of a chimney of 10 m should be about 10%.
In case of prevailing wind, a fire (or as you call it, a smoke chamber, an umbrella on a chimney, a cap on a chimney) must be installed.

Protects the oven from smoking in windy weather and protects it when it rains. Tags:

Knowledge, Domostroy

Brick heating stoves

Since ancient times, bricks have been used to build ovens. Thanks to modern technologies It became possible to use other building materials for these purposes.

Despite this, brick remained in the leading position among all masonry materials, and brick heating stoves are in great demand.

Many people build stoves for their home on their own, as this process is quite simple.

To build a brick oven with your own hands, you need to have a little understanding of construction. Installing such a stove will not be difficult, since it does not require further cladding. (See also: Brick sauna stove)

For such work you need a small number of tools, namely:

• Container for preparing the solution.
• Emery tool.
• Construction pencil.
• Pliers.

Types of brick stoves

Currently there are individual species brick heating stoves, some of which are intended for heating homes, others for preparing tasty and healthy homemade food, and others perform only decorative functions.

There are also models that perform several functions at once, these include a heating and cooking stove made of brick. This type of stove is also called “Swedish”, and in some areas they are called “Dutch”.

Fireplace stoves are no less famous.

In this case, opinions different people are separated. Some believe that the fireplace should stand alone, while others are quite happy with it built into the stove.

The second option is the most economical in terms of space and use. consumables. This stove warms up the room quickly enough. In addition, a do-it-yourself brick mini-oven does not require much knowledge and skills in construction.

This means that it can become a decoration for absolutely any home.

A brick oven-grill is a simple device, although it looks quite complicated. This stove can be used as an alternative to a regular barbecue.

Therefore, its construction in the yard of your own house will not be difficult. (See also: Brick stoves for summer cottages)

It is important to remember: the orders of brick kilns belonging to a certain type are strikingly different from each other.

Requirements for furnaces

Most sites that are devoted to this topic set themselves the task of selling a ready-made stove project. But what should people do who have decided to build a stove on their own, but they do not have enough experience and knowledge to create designs for heating stoves made of bricks?

To make your work much easier, you need to understand what requirements apply to modern brick kilns.

It is worth noting that these parameters are used by professional architects when drawing up projects for absolutely all types of brick kilns. The list of requirements includes: (See also: Building a stove with your own hands)

1. Economical.
2. Ability to retain heat for a long time.
3. Compliance with fire safety standards.
4. Good heating of the entire oven volume.
5. Easy to use.
6. Ease of maintenance.
7. Durability.
8. Beautiful design.

Preparing for the construction of a furnace: determining the location

The laying of brick heating stoves begins with determining its location, based on their purpose.

It is best to place the heating stove in the center of the house, since if at least one side of it is adjacent to the wall facing the street, its efficiency will be lost. In addition, unwanted temperature changes may occur, which negatively affect service life. hearth and home. And also on the efficiency of the chimney.

The combined stove should be located in the same way as the heating one.

The only condition is that the brick fireboxes face the kitchen. And the fireplace stove should be located with a fireplace in the living room.

Preparation of the solution

Next you need to make a cement mortar. To prepare it, the clay is filled with water. At the same time, it must be pre-sifted, without stones. This will make the masonry more durable. (See also: Brick stove for a summer residence)

Important: a properly prepared clay solution guarantees the durability of the stove.

The soaked clay is mixed with the same amount of sand.

After that, water is poured into the container, the volume of which is equal to ¼ of the volume of clay. The solution must be mixed thoroughly so that there is not a single lump. The mortar must have a liquid consistency so that when you press on the brick, it is squeezed out from the seam.

Dry masonry

Before you start laying bricks on the mortar, it is recommended to carry out dry laying.

ATTENTION: in no case is it allowed to take measurements by eye, as this can lead to disastrous results.

To hold right direction When laying, it is necessary to check its verticality, dressing of seams, internal structure, correctness of seams and horizontal laying. (See also: How to lay a stove)

Construction of the furnace

Before you start using the brick, it is dipped in water for a few seconds. As a result, it will not absorb the moisture that the clay releases.

When laying a brick, you need to press it as hard as possible so that the mortar is squeezed out strongly.

In this way, a more durable building can be achieved. Small-sized brick heating stoves require compliance with the thickness of the mortar due to their design features. It should be no less than 3 and no more than 5 millimeters.

Excess solution is removed with a trowel, this will save it.

The oven door is secured with wire.

If this is neglected, a backlash may form, which will lead to the door falling out. For more reliable fastening, the wire is inserted into the box and twisted in half. After this, you need to make a cut in the upper edge of the brick block into which the wire will be inserted.

Important: the connectors must match the door frame.

A gap of even one millimeter should not be allowed to form.

At the end of the masonry, you need to dry the oven. To do this, you need to open all windows and doors. The oven will dry completely only after 15 days. The disappearance of all damp traces indicates that the stove is ready for use.

Detailed instructions for laying a brick stove

After determining the location, the first row is placed, on which a sheet of thick polyethylene film, roofing felt or waterproofing material.

This is necessary for waterproofing. The size of the site should be 780 by 350 millimeters. After this, the sand is sifted, which is then poured in a layer of one centimeter. To avoid the formation of protrusions, the site is carefully leveled. The inspection is carried out at the building level.

In order not to make a mistake with the constructed structure, dry masonry is also checked by the building level. At this point, the most important row can be considered ready.

After this, the entire surface is filled with a thin layer of solution and a blower door is installed, which must be wrapped with asbestos cardboard and cords made of the same material.

The door is secured with annealed wire, after which you can prepare to form the next row.

The third row must be laid out of fireclay bricks, which are painted yellow.

The grate is placed on the same row. The fourth row is laid on the edge. Also at this stage it is necessary to make special supports inside the chimney. It is worth noting that the bricks of the rear wall are laid without using mortar.

Due to the fact that this space is made for wells, which are called areas for cleaning the furnace from soot, they are called ejection wells.

A little later, the combustion door is installed.

So that it can open from bottom to top, it is wrapped with asbestos cord and then secured with wire. For some time it is propped up with bricks. So that it is installed strictly vertically.

The back wall is made using two bricks, which are placed on the edge.

And from the next row the layer is laid out, starting with three fours.

Layout and laying of brick kilns

This will allow for a more durable ligation of the seams.

On the eighth row, a beveled brick is installed, which acts as a smoke tooth. The ninth row needs to be moved back a little to provide support when opening the door. Before installation hob, an asbestos cord is installed, which is pre-soaked in water. A chimney is formed from the same row, which should expand into the fuel chamber.

This is done in order to prevent smoke from passing into the room. At the very end, a chimney is mounted, which must be connected to metal pipe. If it moves to the side, an overlap of three rows of bricks is required.

At the end of the work, the inside of the stove is cleaned from clay and water through a knockout brick.

On hob a piece cut from polyethylene material is placed. This is done in order to avoid the appearance of yellowness in the future. At this point, the brick oven with stove is ready. We must not forget that it can only be used after it is completely dry.

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Drawings of a brick sauna stove

Drawings of a brick sauna stove of a simple and compact design, which is used to produce steam and heat water.

The figure shows the design of a brick stove, in a cross-section along two sections.

How drawings with orders help lay out brick ovens for the home

1. Laying red stove bricks.
2. Laying refractory (fireclay) bricks.
3. Fire door.
4. Blower door.
5. Grate.
6. Metal tank for hot water.
7. Metal bunker for bath stones.
8. Smoke valve.

A drawing of the furnace showing its overall dimensions.

The firebox inside the furnace is made of refractory heat-resistant brick. The gap between red and refractory bricks is 15...20 (mm). A metal water tank is installed behind the firebox, at the level of the grate.

A metal bunker is installed on top of the firebox, into which heaped stones are placed. The presented design with an open heater quickly heats up the steam room, and if the stones have cooled down, you can burn fuel while taking bath procedures.

Material Specification:

• red brick, 65 x 120 x 250 (mm) – 181 (pcs.)
• refractory refractory brick, 65 x 114 x 230 (mm) – 72 (pcs.)
• clay – 60 (kg)
• refractory clay – 35 (kg)
• sand – 32 (kg)
• smoke valve – 140 x 270 (mm)
• fire door – 250 x 205 (mm)
• blower door – 250 x 135 (mm)
• cast iron grate – 250 x 252 (mm)
• water tank – 250 x 555 x 760 (mm), stainless steel sheet 3 (mm) thick
• stone hopper – 260 x 320 x 350 (mm), stainless steel sheet 3 (mm) thick
• square metal mesh, wire diameter 2 (mm), mesh size 15…20 (mm)

Masonry of a heater stove for a bathhouse designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakina.

1st row. Solid brick masonry is laid at or above the floor level.
2nd row. They install the ash door, begin laying refractory bricks, and strictly follow the rules for tying the bricks.
3rd row. According to the order.
4th row. Lay the blower door with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle, as shown in the figure.

5th row. Grooves are cut out in refractory bricks and a grate is installed in them.
6th row. Place the firebox door and install a metal tank for hot water.

Reference:
Odd rows of red brick masonry are tied with a strip of welded square metal mesh.
At the corners, the mesh strip is bent at an angle of 90°.

The width of the groove for the grate should be 5...8 (mm) larger than the outer dimensions of the grate.

7th and 8th row. According to the order.
9th row. The firebox door is covered with three bricks, the edges of which are cut at an angle.
10, 11, 12th row. According to the order.

13th row. According to the order.
14th row. Lay a metal tank for hot water and install a metal bunker for stones.

Drawing of a metal bin for stones.

15, 16 row. According to the order.
17th row. Grooves are cut out in the bricks and a valve is installed in them.
18th row. Closes the smoke damper.

Drawings of a brick sauna stove designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakin and the ordering scheme are discussed in the presented material.

Reference:
The heating time of water and stones is 150…180 (min.)

In the next article, you can familiarize yourself with the device sauna stove with heat exchanger.

A stove is a multifunctional, technically complex structure. Within its boundaries, fuel is processed, heat is produced and combustion products are removed to the outside. If you plan to lay a stove with your own hands, you must strictly follow the rules that have been proven in practice for centuries, guaranteeing normal work unit.

Those who want to know how to ideally build a brick stove will find here detailed information on all important issues of interest independent master. In the presented article, the technological specifics of the structure are presented in great detail, the main postulates of stove makers and significant nuances are scrupulously listed.

The information we provide will help effective assistance in the construction of a brick kiln. All its components will perform their duties flawlessly, and the structure itself will last for many years no complaints. To help home craftsmen, we have selected sequence diagrams, photographs, and video recommendations.

Before you start building a stove, you should decide on its purpose. Heating, cooking and drying units have significant design differences that must initially be taken into account. There is also a reasonable difference in the procedures developed by stove makers for precise brick laying.

There are many furnace structures, which can be divided into groups according to purpose:

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In the last century, the Russian stove was a multifunctional device. This is room heating winter time, at the same time it is hot and healthy food, the possibility of preserving the crop through drying, and household amenities in the form of hot water. It cannot be said that a Russian brick stove is an ideal device. The disadvantage of a stove as a heating system is uneven heating. Modern stoves are designed to heat the room to its full height.

The Russian stove consists of the following parts and elements:

1. Opechek– used for storing and drying wood.
2. Cold stove- a small recess in which various utensils are stored.
3. Six- area on which you can place the pot.
4. Under- this is the floor of the cooking chamber. It has a slight slope towards the mouth, for convenient movement of heavy utensils. It needs to be polished well.
5. Cooking chamber- a place for laying firewood and cooking food. The roof of the furnace also has a slope.
6. Overpipe- camera above the pole. The chimney pipe is located higher.
7. Dushnik- a special hole for connecting the samovar pipe.
8. View- closing door.
9. Bed- horizontal surface, located behind the chimney. You can easily sleep on it in winter.

More common nowadays is the improved Russian stove.
It is distinguished by heating the underfloor part, due to which heating the room becomes more comfortable.

For masonry of the combustion chamber, fire-resistant bricks made of fireclay clay are used. The remaining part of the structure is made of ceramic bricks.

Almost every oven has metal or cast iron parts, for example, doors and dampers. They can also be prepared in specific quantities. You will need the following items:

1. Doors: firebox and blower, as well as a cleaning door, ventilation door for the chimney.
2. Grate;
3. Metal valves;
4. View;
5. Furnace damper;
6. Water box;
7. Plate;
8. Steel strips.

To lay out certain parts - arches and vaults - you need easily disassembled templates. They are made from wooden and plywood elements and parts.

Preparation of masonry mortar

Masonry mortar, unlike ordinary mortar, is much more difficult to prepare for furnace work. You can also buy ready mixture in the store. But, if you decide to build a Russian stove with your own hands, then you can prepare the solution yourself.

Solutions for laying stoves are selected depending on:

• If used for masonry solid brick brand M150, then use clay-sand mortar. It is also used for lining the stove with special ceramic tiles;
• Used for laying refractory bricks based on special refractory clay with the addition of sand;
• When using fireclay bricks, use refractory clay mortars;
• In between attic space brick pipes are laid using cement-sand mortar;

Typically the furnace is located against an internal wall that has a shallow foundation. To ensure independence of the foundations, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 5 cm between them, and pour sand into it. And the upper edge of the foundation should not reach the floor level by 14 cm.

If the oven is placed at outer wall, on a buried strip foundation, then it will be necessary to expand the pit and produce sand and gravel backfill with careful compaction. Next, the stove is installed with a certain gap from the base of the house, the so-called offset. Sand is poured into it, and its end walls are formed with brickwork.

If you decide to install the stove in the opening, then you just need to connect the ends lower crown. This can be done using strips of steel, which are placed on the logs on both sides and tightened with special bolts. Next, the opening is framed with special wooden posts. There must be a circulation gap between them and the future furnace, also called cutting. There should be a gap under the wall in the foundation of the house that will be equal to the width of the stove base on each side.

Laying a Russian stove with your own hands - ordering

The main requirement for laying a furnace is tightness. That is why only whole bricks without any cracks are used for the stove, and the seams are made thin - no more than 5 mm. You should not achieve airtightness by coating all the walls of the oven with clay from the inside - this will reduce thermal conductivity and increase deposits of soot and soot. In addition, the clay flakes off and clogs the channels inside the oven, which will be quite problematic to clean. Today the following methods are used:

• brickwork- at this method the wall thickness will be equal to the length of the brick;
• half-brick masonry- here the brick will be laid flat along the wall;
• quarter masonry- i.e. the brick will be laid on edge.

The ligation of the seams will be carried out thanks to the use of alternately bonded and spoon masonry or non-full-size building material in the corners.

If used ceramic brick, it must be pre-soaked, as it will “pull out” all the moisture from the solution.

During the installation process, be sure to remove excess mixture, and especially on internal sides ovens. Lay the outer walls of the oven “in brick”, and the inner walls “in half a brick”. Laying rows is the order of masonry actions in each subsequent row. Thanks to this process, anyone can build a Russian stove.

First row They are laid from burnt bricks; they absorb little moisture. For the first row, the corners are laid out from cut bricks.

Second row begins with the laying of the furnace walls, the clearings are laid in front and on the left side. As a rule, an ash pan is formed on the front part on the right side of the furnace.

IN third row Cleanings on the left are laid without solution. Blower and cleaning doors are installed on the front side. The doors are mounted using burnt steel wire, it is installed in the cuts in the bricks and secured with masonry mortar.

IN fourth row the bottom channels are blocked.

On fifth row install the grate of the small firebox. To install the inside of the firebox, refractory bricks are used; they are also laid without the use of mortar.

IN seventh row The firebox grate is being installed, the walls and the first firebox are being installed. The right wall needs to be strengthened with a steel strip.

IN eighth and ninth row Laying of walls and internal channels continues. The firebox doors of the stove and small firebox are installed.

IN tenth row the arches of the first and second firebox will be connected. Cover the bottom of the furnace. And the smoke circulation channels lead into the furnace.

IN next row mounted on the front edge of the masonry steel angle, install a slab on top. The space of the right firebox is covered with a special removable grate.

IN twelfth row laying of the front walls of the furnace and the side walls of the slab begins using refractory bricks. The furnace damper is installed. To the left of the stove they begin to form the lower part of the chimney.

WITH 13 to 16th row The laying of the furnace walls continues and the mouth of the furnace is blocked.

IN seventeenth row a certain narrowing of the furnace roof and expansion of the main chimney begins. And the back wall of the furnace is strengthened with a steel tie.

IN 18th row the roof of the furnace will be covered, and the laying of the front wall of the furnace will begin, which will form the overtube.

IN 19th row The front wall of the furnace is strengthened with the help of a screed; the walls are being installed above the furnace, forming a certain space for backfilling.

IN 21st row the stove is closed, and the overpipe will gradually narrow towards the chimney.

A small brick stove can sometimes be quite useful, especially if you do not have a large room and do not live in it permanently. It will quickly warm up the room and create a comfortable environment.

Today we will tell you how to make a small brick oven with your own hands, what you need to take into account for this, and we will offer instructions on the manufacturing rules. You can also watch the video in this article and select the modification you need.

Mini ovens and their features

Small brick stoves for summer cottages also have their own characteristics; you should familiarize yourself with them before making a final decision.

• The compactness of a brick or appliance structure is considered the main condition for a small room;
• An important condition for such a stove is safety, because usually country houses are built from wood, which dries quickly in the sun and, if hit, can easily flare up like a match. Among other things, the chimney pipe and the device itself must be sealed; they have excellent internal draft, because carbon monoxide, which gets inside, can lead to quite sad consequences;
• The oven, which is placed on summer cottage in winter, it must withstand for quite a long time without kindling and not become damp;
• Warming up and quick lighting of the device, the spread of heat is also the most important condition for a stove of this type, because when it rains or when completing difficult work, you want to relax in a warm room and drink hot tea;
• It is desirable that such a stove be equipped with large doors so that it can perform the functions of a fireplace, because it is almost impossible to do without evening gatherings next to the fire;
• Long-term heat retention is extremely necessary if you are going to a house overnight;
• Without hob V country house it is almost impossible to get by, especially if the electricity in the village periodically turns off and there is no gas supply;
• Also an important factor is the fuel used for the stove. To save money, choose an omnivorous heating device that can be heated in various ways - brushwood, coal, firewood or household waste;
• It is desirable that the stove has the ability to install a hot water supply register;
• The simplicity of the design of the heating device allows you to fold and install it yourself, which saves a tidy sum, because the services of craftsmen in this regard are not cheap;
• An important point is aesthetic appeal, because with the help of the device you can transform a room, or add general design some kind of gray spot.

Brick ovens

A small brick stove for a summer residence is used quite often.

But during installation you will need to consider the following points:

• The stove can be installed in such a way that it will distribute heat to several rooms without heating circuits. If the furnace was installed correctly and the valve was installed, it is considered fireproof, but for this building it will be necessary to create a strong foundation that will be isolated from the foundation walls. This bathroom condition, if you do not comply with it, then the masonry may lose its integrity, because when the foundation of the house shrinks, it can begin to pull on the base of the stove;

Attention: Do not forget that such stoves do not like long periods of downtime and dampness, therefore, in order for the heat transfer to be maximum after a period when it was not used, you need to carry out several drying fires without significant loads. In each of them we gradually increase the amount of fuel - this process is usually called acceleration.

• It is precisely because brick is afraid of dampness that such stoves are installed in a dacha only when people live in the house most of the time and there is the possibility of burning it;
• Residents of private houses consider only those buildings made of brick to be useful and real. At the same time heating devices made from other materials are not recognized at all. In fact, such a stove will give the room a special coziness and unique atmosphere. And what’s more important is that they are multifunctional. Professionals in the stove business have developed a huge number of different models from which you can choose for a specific option.

Installation of a small stove

A small brick oven can be installed with your own hands without any problems.

There are two options here:

• First option, you are simply making a stove with a foundation. Then the price of the building will increase, but it will be a fairly heat-intensive structure;
• Second option, this is if you do not have enough funds and do not have the skills. Then it is quite possible to install a metal stove and simply cover it with bricks to increase the heat capacity.

Attention: In the first option, your structure will take up more space and the heat transfer will be higher.

Materials that will be required for the work

You will need:

• Twenty liters of clay mortar;
• Boards;
• About sixty bricks;
• Blower door;
• Cast iron plate;
• Fire door;
• Lattice;
• Fireclay brick.

The size of a small stove occupies 0.4 m2 and is made of brick, which is laid on an edge or flat. This type of stove perfectly retains and distributes heat.

The design is quite simple, because the mini-oven does not weigh too much and the foundation structure is not prerequisite. The floor should be made of thick and durable boards that are well secured.

Such a stove on its own is an alternative to a potbelly stove, but it has more functionality and a heating part, which includes a cooking part. It also plays the role of a fireplace. Such a furnace can be erected without any problems and within 24 hours.

At the very beginning, you need to light the stove with paper and wood chips, but do not take logs, because sudden temperature changes may cause cracks in the solution. This will further lead to smoke or improper air movement.

Before starting the oven, it is necessary that it dry thoroughly. Usually this takes about a week.

Masonry mixture

Everything can be done with your own hands. Then the price will be significantly lower. It is quite possible to use several compositions in masonry. What to choose is up to you.

So:

• For bricklaying, clay-sand, cement mortar is used. For example, screenings instead of sand for the mixture are used to fill the foundation, and a mixture of cement and sand is used for one or more rows of masonry. If for the M400 cement brand ¼ is added, then for screed the screenings must be mixed in a proportion of 1/6;
• It is a little more difficult to prepare a solution of sand and clay, because it will take much more time. In order for the lumps of clay to break, they must be soaked in water in the evening, and those that remain in the same state should be kneaded with your hands so that no small lumps remain;
• The ratio of clay and sand is one to two or one to three - everything here depends on the degree of fat content of the solution (this is checked with a trowel). The consistency is considered normal when the solution slides off the trowel without any problems, leaving no traces, and in its thickness it should resemble mashed potatoes.

How to make a stove

Now let's look at how to make a small brick stove in detail. It has its own technology and procedure.

In order to properly build a stove yourself, you must follow the following recommendations:

Attention: Fire-resistant material must be used for the combustion part. It will also withstand coal burning. It is better to use a clay mixture as a solution. It is the most practical and durable.

• Choose suitable place for a mini-stove, and instead put roofing felt, film, glassine or hydrosol in it. The size of such material should be 78x53 centimeters;
• You need to pour and level sand onto the litter (the thickness of which is about a centimeter);
• On top of it we lay the first row of twelve bricks, which do not need to be fastened together. After this, we align all the bricks to the same level so that they are strictly horizontal;
• A small layer of clay is applied to the initial row, after which you can begin installing the blower door. It is extremely important that it is wrapped in asbestos cord or cardboard. We secure it with wire, after which you can safely move on to laying the next one;
• Fireclay brick is used for the third row of the mini-stove, after which the grate is installed. It is mounted above the ash pit only when the third brick row fully formed;
• We make the following from bricks, but we lay them on edge; in the middle of the chimney it is necessary to lay supports for the internal partitions. Rear wall stoves are laid with a slight protrusion outward and without the use of clay - they are called knockout bricks;
• After this we install the combustion door. Again, before you begin installing the door, you need to wrap it with cord in such a way that it can be opened from the bottom up. It is secured with wire and fixed for a while with several stones. The first one is placed at the back, and the second one is placed on top of the door;
• Also, to ensure reliable fastening, a wire is inserted into the holes, twisted and the ends are laid in order;

• The fifth row is made flat; here we make sure to check the outline of the previous row. But the sixth row is laid edgewise. Then we rub the walls of the large stove with a wet rag and proceed to the next stage;
• On the 7th row we lay the brick flat. Next, we place a couple of bricks edgewise and proceed to the back wall;
• When the time comes for the 8th row of the stove on your own, make sure that it overlaps the combustion door above which it will end. It is at this time that we install a beveled brick over the firebox so that the flame is directed to the center of the stove burner;
• We lay out a soaked asbestos cord in advance so that the space between the bricks and the slab is completely sealed. Since cast iron and clay have different coefficients of thermal expansion, we do not lay the slab on clay. Afterwards you can move on to the ninth row, but here it needs to be shifted so that the doors are kept open;
• When working with the following, you will need to form a chimney that will expand at the rear. To make a stove of this type, there is no need for a mounted pipe that will expand at the top, since this type of pipe will lead to a change in the center of gravity. There are various schemes chimneys. They are: horizontal, straight, countercurrent, combined, and so on. In our design, the stove should have a direct version;
• When working with the next row, do not forget to insert a plug, which is sealed with a cord (it is advisable to additionally coat it with clay);
• Thus, the pipes will be connected to the metal one. If the chimney goes to the side, then it must be covered with several rows of bricks;
• After this, we remove the brick from the fourth row and clean the pipe from dirt that has accumulated during construction work;
• We whiten the stove. Metal part We protect the oven itself and its walls with film. To prevent it from turning yellow over time, you need to add milk and a small amount of blue to the solution. Each piece of the stove must be processed in the most careful way, special attention is paid to the joints of bricks and cast iron surfaces;
• Carefully seal the gaps between the first row and the floor. This is necessary so that the sand that was poured under the brick does not spill;
• Afterwards, we nail a plinth along the edge of the building, which will protect the stove from sand spills. We nail it level and tightly to cover all the cracks. Thanks to such actions, the stove will look even better;
• As soon as you carry out the first fire with wood chips and paper, leave all the doors and burners in the open position for several days so that everything dries thoroughly.

A small brick stove for a summer house is made quite quickly and will last a long time. The main thing is look at the photo and choose the right option. The instructions will prevent you from making mistakes.

At a time when a stationary solid fuel stove was the only existing means of heating a home, the profession of a stove maker enjoyed great popularity and respect. Today, to arrange individual heating, you can use many different units operating on a wide variety of fuels, but brick stoves still remain in demand.

Nowadays, finding a truly competent stove maker is not an easy task. And you don’t need to do this, because you can build a full-fledged stove with your own hands.

Before you start self-masonry ovens, familiarize yourself with the features of existing varieties of such units. The stoves are:

• heating. Designed exclusively for heating. Such ovens have extremely simple design and posted in as soon as possible and with the least effort compared to other types of structures;
• heating and cooking systems. The most popular and sought after option. At the same time they heat the house and allow you to cook food;

There are also improved varieties of heating and cooking stoves with a built-in stove or even a full-fledged oven.

IN separate category include fireplace stoves. This great option for a modern private home. Such designs do an excellent job of heating rooms and have an attractive appearance. A properly laid out and finished fireplace stove will be a worthy addition to the interior of both a small country house and an expensive private villa.

The diagrams of modern stoves distinguish them not only by their purpose, but also by their shape. Most often, rectangular and square-shaped units are installed in private homes. But if you wish, you can lay out a round oven. Select a specific option taking into account the characteristics of the room and your own preferences.

Of course, you can lay out the oven yourself, and numerous diagrams will help you do this in the shortest possible time. However, when performing such work, remember that any stove, regardless of its purpose, shape and other characteristics, must fully comply with current fire safety standards.

Choosing a location and type of foundation for the stove

Before starting to lay the stove, pay due attention to finding a place to place it. For example, if the unit is placed in the middle of the room, it will be able to give off much more heat, warming up from all sides and evenly heating the air around.

If you place the stove against the wall (and this option is used most often), cold air will constantly “walk” near the floor. Therefore, you need to make your own decision in this regard.

Preliminarily determine the installation location of the combustion door. This element must be installed so that in the future you can load fuel into the stove as conveniently and quickly as possible, without spreading debris from firewood or coal throughout the house. Usually the fire door is located on the side of the kitchen or some little-frequented room.

The finished brick stove will have quite an impressive weight. In order for the device to stand as reliably and as long as possible, you need to prepare an individual concrete foundation for it.

Furnace design features

Traditional brick ovens have a fairly simple design. However, the apparent simplicity at first glance makes it possible to achieve very high performance productivity and efficiency.

The main elements of the brick stove body are the firebox and chimney. Cooking stoves are additionally equipped with stoves and/or ovens; it is also possible to install a tank for heating water.

The firebox is main part furnace unit. It is into the firebox that firewood or other fuel used for heating is loaded. The firebox can have a wide variety of sizes. There are several things to consider when determining the appropriate dimensions: important factors, such as:

• type of fuel used. If you will heat the stove with wood, make a firebox 50-100 cm high;
• required performance;
• required volume.

To arrange the firebox, use refractory bricks. The thickness of the walls of the structure in question cannot be less than half a brick.

The chimney is also one of the main elements of any heating stove. The chimney is designed to remove flue gases with various harmful inclusions formed during the operation of the stove.

At the chimney design stage, try to think through everything so that its design has a minimum number of bends and turns. Ideally, the chimney should be completely vertical. Any kind of bends will lead to deterioration of traction and a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.

An important element in the design of a brick kiln is the ash pan chamber. Ash will collect in this compartment. Also, through the ash pan, air is supplied inside the unit to the fuel. The ash chamber is located under the grate and is equipped with its own door. Traditionally, the height of the ash pit is 3 bricks.

What mortar should I use for masonry?

The reliability and durability of the finished stove directly depends on the quality of the masonry mortar. The masonry will be carried out using a sand-clay based mortar.

There is nothing complicated in preparing the solution. Take clay, fill it with water and soak it. Sift the mixture through a sieve and then stir into “clay milk.” Finally, add some water to obtain a sufficiently viscous and plastic solution.

Remember, the reliability and strength of the stove directly depends on the correct preparation of the masonry mortar. If you do everything right, the stove will effectively heat your home for many years. Violate the technology or decide to save a lot on materials - the thermal unit is unlikely to be able to fully reveal its potential and stand for any long period of time.

Main stages and important features of furnace laying

From the moment the foundation is poured to the start of construction, 3-4 weeks should pass. During this time, the base will gain the necessary strength and will be able to withstand the weight of the brick oven. The work in question requires maximum responsibility and concentration on the part of the performer. Any mistakes can lead to irreparable consequences, so get ready for the work in advance and allocate enough time to complete it.

The laying of the furnace is carried out in several stages.

First stage. Lay out the ash pan and the lower part of the first cap from brick. Carry out the laying using the previously discussed sand-clay mortar.

Second stage. Install the ash pan door into the masonry. Use galvanized wire to secure the door.

Third stage.

Fourth stage. Mount the firebox. Line the inside of this compartment with fire bricks. Place the bricks “on edge”. At this stage you need to use a special masonry mortar. It is prepared in the same way as the standard one, but instead of simple clay, refractory clay is used, i.e. fireclay. Secure the combustion chamber door using a steel plate and the wire you are already familiar with.

Fifth stage. Continue standard laying until you reach the 12th row. Having reached this row, close the combustion chamber and lay the tiles with burners evenly. This stove must be made of cast iron. Check the evenness of the installation using a building level.

Sixth stage. Lay out the first cap. It is erected at the left edge of the stove. At the same stage, a canal for the summer passage is being built.

Seventh stage. Install the stove and line the walls of the cooking compartment. Lay out the previously mentioned lower cap.

Eighth stage. Install the valve for the mentioned summer passage channel. This valve is located in the inner corner of the cooking compartment.

Ninth stage. Lay the masonry up to the 20th row. When you reach this row, close the brewing compartment and the first hood. Be sure to leave it in solid masonry required number holes for the summer run and lift channel, as well as an vent for the cooking compartment. Place the bricks on steel corners - this will ensure higher strength and reliability of the stove.

Tenth stage. Close the portal of the brewing compartment with hinged fireplace doors. It is better if the doors have heat-resistant glass inserts. This solution will allow you to monitor the fuel combustion process and admire the flame.

Eleventh stage. Install cleaning doors for easy soot removal. For installation, choose a location that is easiest for you to get to.

Twelfth stage. Lay out the walls of the hood almost to the top edge of the wall opening. Cover the top of the stove with a couple of rows of bricks. Fill the gap between the top of the stove and the jumper with mineral wool. Thanks to this, additional thermal insulation will be provided and heating efficiency will be slightly increased.

Thirteenth stage. Place a decorative band around the upper perimeter of the unit.

Fourteenth stage. Proceed with the installation of the chimney. It is better if the chimney is made of brick. This design will last much longer than the same metal or asbestos pipes.

At the end, all you have to do is lay out the chimney to the end and, if desired, complete external finishing stoves. The simplest option is plastering. For the rest, be guided by your own preferences and available budget.

Thus, although laying the stove is not a simple task, it can be done with your own hands. It is enough to simply understand the technology and follow the instructions in everything. Remember, the materials for work must be of the highest quality. And stove designs that have been tested over the years will allow you to independently build a unit that will efficiently heat your home for many years without any problems or complaints.

Happy work!

Video - Do-it-yourself stove laying diagrams