At the final stage of construction of a private house, developers have the feeling that the building is ready for use. Wanting to immerse themselves in solving issues related to the improvement of residential premises and quickly move in, many do not attach serious importance to some points. An important nuance is the blind area around the house. It solves the problem of preventing waterlogging of the foundation around the building and ensures the durability of the building.
The blind area of a private house is an integral element of the building. You should not move in prematurely and celebrate housewarming by postponing its construction “to tomorrow.” After all, an unprotected foundation exposed to moisture gradually decreases in strength and uneven shrinkage occurs.
Experienced builders always construct an edging around the building, which can be done in various designs. Compliance technological recommendations allows you to reliably protect the foundation of the building during the period of operation. Only by adhering to technology can you properly make a blind area around the house. Let's consider the purpose of the protective edging, parameters and designs. We will decide on the choice of building materials for the work, and also study how, in accordance with technological requirements, a blind area is made around the foundation of the building.
What is the purpose of the blind area around the house?
Protecting the foundation, the blind area of a private house is made in the form of a kind of edging around the building, which has a slight slope to the outside.
The blind area near the house, first of all, serves as a kind of protection along with a decorative function
It is designed to solve serious problems:
- preventing the impact of precipitation on the foundation of the building;
- removal of moisture from the foundation into storm sewer pipes;
- reducing the depth of soil freezing along the contour of the building;
- reducing heat losses along the perimeter of the building’s foundation;
- protecting the soil adjacent to the foundation from freezing and swelling;
- limiting plant growth, protecting the foundation surface from roots;
- forming a transition around the foundation, improving the appearance of the building.
After completion of construction activities, begin making a blind area in order to have time to protect the adjacent soil from waterlogging and the foundation of the building from destruction before the autumn rains and winter frosts.
Blind area of a private house - operating parameters
In order to properly make a blind area around the house, follow the recommendations of professional builders.
Install a blind area around the house with your own hands after finishing the walls, when it’s time for exterior finishing They focus the attention of novice developers on the following nuances:
- the minimum width of the site, which must be at least 0.6 meters. Increasing the size to one meter increases ease of movement around the building;
- the need for free flow of precipitation onto the blind area. The width of the concrete edging must exceed the contour of the roof by at least 0.2 meters;
- full coverage of the foundation along the perimeter of the building with a surrounding edging. The configuration of the protective path should not have gaps for reliable protection of the foundation;
- ensuring a slope from the building to the ground from 1 to 10%. Exceeding the specified values corresponding to the slope of a 1 m wide edge by 1–10 cm may cause slipping;
- pouring concrete mortar when making edging in a layer of up to 10 cm. To increase the load capacity in wet soil conditions, the layer thickness is increased to 15 cm;
- mandatory construction along the perimeter of the protective curb. It additionally protects the foundation from damage by plant roots;
- forming a raised edging above the soil level. With a difference of 5 cm above the ground surface, flooding of the protective contour along the outer edge is excluded.
Compliance with the requirements of building codes will create favorable conditions for long-term operation.
What building materials are the blind area around the building made of?
Let's consider what building materials are used to make the blind area around the house. Popular:
- artificial concrete paving stones. It is presented in construction supermarkets in an expanded assortment. Different color scheme, texture and shape. The radius configuration prevents the edges from chipping. Dimensions and structure artificial stone allow it to maintain its integrity under the influence of various loads that arise when moving along the track. Special edging improves appearance. The building material is not afraid of frost, temperature fluctuations, and is quickly installed;
In addition to its direct purpose, the blind area “works” as insulation basements buildings - natural stone. Durable granite is used, from which paving stones are made required sizes. Finished products are blanks cut from solid granite. standard form in the form of a cube or parallelepiped, as well as split parts. Laying process natural stone similar to the technology for installing paving stones made of concrete. A sand and gravel layer 4–5 cm thick is preliminarily formed. Then stone paving stones are laid, the seams at the junction of the elements are sealed;
- concrete. Application of concrete mixture budget solution, which allows you to create a surface with increased strength, as well as high water-repellent properties. Concreting is carried out in collapsible timber formwork on pre-prepared soil. To ensure the integrity of the concrete mass during deformations, expansion joints are made along the perimeter of the building. To improve perception, a layer of pebbles of pebbles up to 50 mm in size can be laid on the surface. This decoration gives the concrete an original look;
- paving slabs. A significant advantage of this building material is the accelerated replacement of cracked elements. The dimensions and configuration of the tiles are regulated by the requirements of the current standard. Square tiles are used maximum size 50x50 cm, as well as rectangular products up to 100 cm long. Standard products differ gray. But there are also multi-colored products with decorative patterns. If the dimensions of the tiles correspond to the parameters of the edging, it is easy to quickly lay paving slabs without adjusting the dimensions;
The width of the strip should not be equal to the level of the roof overhang, nor should it be narrower than this overhanging edge - crushed stone. This building material allows you to quickly and easily minimal costs arrange a protective edge around the building. This option is used when aquifers are located closely and there are drainage communications around the perimeter of the building. Expanded clay granules or gravel can be used instead of crushed stone. The crushed stone layer should be thoroughly compacted by first laying geotextile fabric on the ground. It is easier to move on compacted gravel, and geotextiles will not allow weeds to grow and will protect the building material from mixing with the soil.
Most private developers perform concrete edging of the building. For its construction you will need the following building materials and tools:
- waterproofing building materials for covering (roofing felt, geotextiles);
- planed boards for formwork construction;
- reinforcing bars or purchased mesh with a cell size of 100x100 mm;
- fine sand, cleared of impurities, and medium-fraction gravel;
- Portland cement with a marking of at least M300 and clay;
- sheet expanded polystyrene for thermal insulation layer;
- wooden stakes and marking cord;
- bayonet and shovel shovels for earthworks;
- compaction device to facilitate compaction;
- bubble level necessary to check horizontality.
Having decided on the coating and prepared the building materials, proceed to further work.
Initially, marking of the future protective strip is carried out for the construction of concrete protection Blind area of a private house - design options
The edging around the building differs in manufacturing methods, as well as design features. They include two layers that perform different functions:
- underlying It is made of purified sand, fine crushed stone and clay. The working covering is laid on a pre-compacted base;
- finishing. It is formed from moisture-resistant building materials that protect the foundation of the building from excess moisture. Provides a surface with improved appearance.
Answering the question of how to make a blind area around the house, we inform you that there are various solutions. The standard classification of blind surfaces includes the following types:
- soft. The intermediate layer, formed between the outer material and the soil, is made in the form of a special pillow. It includes several compacted layers. The greatest load is taken by the outer layer, made of fine gravel-crushed stone mixture. The use of bulk building materials reduces costs and significantly reduces the duration of work. Despite the significant drawback - low durability, the soft version is used with a limited budget;
- medium hard. This is an option based on a sand-crushed stone mixture. For finishing finishing, various building materials are laid on the compacted pad - ceramic tiles, natural and artificial paving stones, ordinary cobblestones, as well as porcelain stoneware. The design does not provide for thermal insulation and the construction of semi-rigid edging on soils prone to frost heaving. The acceptable level of costs and ease of construction are due to the lack of concreting. Customers are attracted by simple technology and low consumption of building materials;
In order for the future blind area of the house to be strong and withstand compressive and tensile loads, it must be reinforced - tough. It is constructed by concreting with the preliminary installation of a reinforcement cage to increase the strength characteristics of the massif. The rigid design allows for thermal insulation. Characterized by increased durability, equal to the lifespan of the building. Despite serious advantages, there are a number of disadvantages. This is the increased labor intensity of forming a rigid base, increased costs, as well as the need to use special finishing building materials.
Choice optimal option produced individually depending on capabilities.
How to make a blind area around the house - the main steps
Standard technology involves the following operations:
- Site preparation.
- Protection from moisture.
- Performing filling.
- Formwork assembly.
- Laying the heat insulator.
- Reinforcement.
- Pouring concrete.
We will try to answer the question of how to make a blind area at home.
Preparatory activities
Sequence of preliminary work:
- Vegetation removal.
- Cleaning the outer layer of soil.
- Performing markings.
- Control of placement relative to the edge of the roof.
- Extraction of soil around the perimeter.
- Removal of fertile soil.
When performing work, pay attention to the horizontalness of the prepared surface.
Waterproofing protection
For the hydraulic lock device the following can be used:
- waterproofing in rolls. Roofing felt, geotextile or polyethylene are used. They are laid without tension on a compacted and moistened layer of sand;
- clay. On a 5 cm thick sand cushion compacted and spilled with water, an array of oily clay is formed, with a layer thickness of up to 12 cm.
These building materials provide a high level of waterproofing.
The poured concrete mixture should flow towards the house, slightly compressing it Pillow device
The filling is done as follows:
- Place crushed stone at the bottom of the pit with a layer thickness of 10 cm.
- Add sand, pour water and compact.
- Form the required surface slope.
To install drainage, it is necessary to lay pipes under a layer of crushed stone, ensuring the slope of the lines.
Making formwork
Algorithm for assembling a wooden frame:
- Cut the wood pieces.
- Soak the wood with an antiseptic.
- Drive vertical supports into the soil.
- Nail the boards.
- Seal gaps.
- Form an expansion joint.
- Check that the formwork is assembled correctly.
When performing work, form transverse seams using thin strips spaced at 2 m intervals.
Do not build a blind area immediately after building the basement Installation of heat insulator
Installing insulation is easy:
- Lay down the foam sheets.
- Seal the cracks polyurethane foam.
- Cut off the hardened foam.
- Lay polystyrene foam boards.
How to properly perform reinforcement and concreting
Laying reinforcement and pouring concrete is the final stage. Sequence of actions:
- Tie the reinforcement frame from the cut blanks and place it in the formwork.
- Prepare the concrete mixture and pour it, ensuring equal thickness.
- Compact the array, forming the required angle of inclination.
- Cover with polyethylene and maintain the required moisture content of the concrete.
After the final hardening of the concrete, dismantle the formwork.
Results
The builders' recommendations will help you make the blind area correctly. It is necessary to decide on the design, follow the recommended dimensions and technology. It is important to ensure harmonious combination edging and external finishing of the building.
To prevent erosion of the soil around the house by rain and melt water, as well as to remove precipitation from the foundation, a blind area is made around the house. This work must be carried out before final finishing base More specifically, decide for yourself. But it is undesirable to delay: leaving a house or bathhouse over the winter without a blind area, you may end up with several cracks in the foundation in the spring.
The blind area around the house is a simple structure. However, it greatly extends the life of buildings. During autumn bad weather, water seeps into the foundation. In cold weather, it freezes, increasing in volume, which creates excess pressure. As a result of this load, cracks appear in the foundation, into which water also penetrates. Freezing makes them even wider. Without a blind area for some time, the foundation requires serious and expensive repairs. Sometimes the damage is so severe that it cannot be repaired.
But these are not all the functions that it can perform. protective coating around the house. In some cases it is used as a path. Sometimes, by laying insulation and a layer of waterproofing under the blind area, you can improve performance characteristics buildings and correct some shortcomings made during construction in heat and. In addition, from a decorative point of view, it serves as a logical conclusion to the design of the house.
What is the blind area made of?
The cheapest option is from concrete mortar. But it takes more time to create such a design. Especially on heaving soils: a special cushion and reinforcement are required. The entire time until the solution gains strength, you cannot walk on it, and this is at least four to five days.
Other types of covering for the protective belt around the house are paving slabs, paving stones, bricks, natural stone, porcelain stoneware, etc. There are a lot of options today. The main thing is that they have the following properties:
- did not let water through;
- did not crack when freezing/thawing;
- had high abrasion resistance;
- had aesthetic appeal;
- had a long service life.
There is another material for the blind area, but it is rarely used in private housing construction - asphalt is laid around the house. As for attractiveness (as in the case of concrete), the issue is debatable, but the other characteristics are simply excellent.
But a protective coating is not everything. Other materials will be needed. Which ones specifically depend on the option you choose to implement. We can say for sure that sand and crushed stone will be required. You may need waterproofing and slab insulation.
Dimensions
Since the main task of the blind area is to remove thawed and rainwater, its width should be at least 20 cm greater than the roof overhang. But experts do not recommend doing it less than 60 cm - moisture can seep into the foundation.
The width of the protective belt also depends on the type of soil. If these are normal soils that drain water well, then 60 cm is enough. If the house is on loam, other heaving or unstable soils, the width should be up to 1 meter.
Basic parameters of the blind area for normal drainage of water from the foundation But the blind area must also go deeper. Its depth depends on the type of soil, the functions it will perform and the thickness of the top finishing layer.
If the house stands on normal, non-heaving soils (not clay or clay-containing soils), and people will not walk on the surface, it is enough to make a backfill of sand 10 cm thick. You can lay tiles, stones, etc. on top. This means that the depth of the trench will be about 10-20 cm - it depends on the thickness of the finishing material. Only for a coating that is made up of fragments, a border is required. So you dig in edge stones around the perimeter, reinforce them, and only then pour sand into the bottom of the trench.
If the formwork will be used as footpath, a more serious, weight-distributing substrate is needed. At the bottom of the ditch, crushed stone of a medium-sized fraction of about 15-20 cm is first laid, and then sand is placed on it, and only then the finishing coating.
What else is mandatory is compliance with the slopes: the decline comes from the house. This way the moisture will flow into the drainage system or soil located around it. The amount of slope depends on the type of protective coating used. For concrete and asphalt, the slope is 3-5% (height difference per 1 meter is 3-5 cm). When laying stone, tiles, porcelain stoneware, the slope is 5-10%.
Work order
After the dimensions have been selected, the actual installation of the blind area begins. In general, this occurs in several successive stages.
Marking and removing soil
The selected width is laid around the perimeter of the building. Here it must be said that in those places where people will walk, it can be made wider.
They are usually marked by driving in pegs. By stretching a string or cord between the pegs, they outline the front of the work. Over this entire area it will be necessary to remove the turf and some of the soil. At the same time, the roots of the plants are removed. Frequently processed chemicals, which prevent plant germination. If this is not done, as they germinate, they will destroy the coating.
Construction of expansion joint
It is very important to remember when doing this that the blind area and the foundation should not be connected. To do this, it is necessary to leave an expansion joint around the perimeter of the foundation, about 2 cm wide. In practice, this is either strips of foam plastic 2 cm thick, or two layers of folded roofing material attached to the foundation.
An expansion joint is necessary so that when the soil moves under the blind area, it does not put pressure on the foundation. If this is not done, instead of preventing destruction, it will create pressure, which will sooner or later lead to cracks in the walls.
Bedding and finishing coat
If you follow the “folk” technology, a layer of clay is poured onto the bottom of the trench. It will prevent moisture seepage. It is compacted, already at this stage creating a slope from the foundation. This backfill is suitable for any type of soil. It may take a long time to compact it, but it will not conduct water. If you use sand for the blind area of a house standing on clay soils, most of the water will end up just under the foundation.
Things will go faster if you use a tamping machine. If there is no such thing, take a log of medium diameter and saw off 80-90 cm. The height should be such that you do not have to bend over - you should be able to reach the top edge with your hands. On one side they fill the crossbar - the handle. This deck is used to compact it, raising and lowering it.
Then add a layer of sand. It is spilled with water and also thoroughly compacted. In normal soils and if people will not walk on the blind area, you can lay paving slabs or paving stones. When using concrete as a protective covering, it will be necessary to pour and compact a layer of crushed stone, arrange formwork and expansion joints, lay out the reinforcing belt and only then pour the solution. So making concrete path takes a lot of time.
Insulation of the blind area
If the blind area is made around a house with a basement or ground floor, you need to do its heat and waterproofing at the same time. Insulation is necessary for everyone slab foundation- it will prevent the soil under the slab from freezing.
Some experts argue that in middle lane Russia and the north, insulation is necessary in any houses with seasonal accommodation. The fact is that in a heated house, the heating itself prevents the foundation from freezing. And if they insulate the blind area, it is only for the purpose of saving fuel. In a house with seasonal residence, it is necessary to take additional measures to extend the life of the building. And here's why. Any material can withstand a certain number of freezing and thawing cycles. After which it begins to collapse. In the absence of insulation, in one season the foundation will freeze and freeze as many times as the weather changes - in autumn and spring the weather is often alternately warm and cold. It is clear what this state of affairs will lead to: after some short time, destruction will begin.
For thermal insulation to the entire depth of the ditch (and better than foundation) a thermal insulation layer is attached to the base. It is also laid on the bedding under the protective coating. To insulate the blind area around the house, the following materials are used:
- expanded polystyrene;
- foamed polyurethane;
- polystyrene foam
Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam
This material is one of the best for insulating foundations. At the same time, it retains heat and does not allow moisture to pass through: its hygroscopicity is close to zero. Its downside is that it melts easily. But for insulating the foundation and formwork, this drawback is not significant.
It is advisable to spread plastic film on horizontally laid out slabs - it will protect the joints of the slabs from water leakage.
Formwork with polystyrene is done in this way:
- Compacted coarse sand in a layer of 15 cm.
- Ruberoid. In this case, it must be placed on the walls by 15 cm.
- Polystyrene boards, joints are sealed with sealant. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. It can be either one slab, or two 5 cm each. If there are two slabs, they need to be glued with overlapping seams - this will provide more reliable protection against moisture penetration.
- Polyethylene film 200 microns.
- Layer of sand. It is carefully compacted, trying not to push through the slabs.
- Protective material.
Any film is used as a protective material. But under the concrete, an additional reinforcing mesh is placed (metal with a cell of 10*10 cm) and only then the solution is poured downhill.
Foamed polyurethane
It is sprayed from special devices. It does not rot, practically does not absorb water, the operating temperature range is from -60 o C to +150 o C. It is applied quickly - all work can take three to four hours, but the use of a special apparatus entails payment for services. They are not cheap - one of the components is toxic. So, for all its attractiveness, this method is used infrequently.
Foam insulation
This is the cheapest of the insulation materials. It has good heat-insulating properties, does not allow water to pass through, and also has good sound insulation properties. Its only drawback is small mechanical strength. When using it, an additional reinforcing belt is required. The sequence of actions is the same as when insulating with polystyrene, only two differences:
- pour sand on top of the insulation in a thicker layer, compact it only by patting it with a shovel, and you cannot walk on the foam;
- Under tiles or paving stones, a reinforcing belt is also needed, which is covered with a second layer of sand on top.
Despite the low price, polystyrene foam is not the best choice: it is too susceptible to stress. If people will walk on the path, it should not be used. To reduce the cost of insulation, you can use it for gluing to the foundation, and purchase polystyrene foam for the formwork itself. This will be the best option.
Waterproofing
Waterproofing is necessary for heaving soils and lack of insulation of the foundation and blind area. In this case, the less water there is under the building, the less likely it is that heaving forces will damage your building.
The sequence of layers for waterproofing is as follows:
- The waterproofing layer is an ordinary dense polyethylene film 200-300 microns thick - clay is laid. There is no need to tighten it - there should be some freedom of movement so that it does not tear during seasonal movements of the soil. The height of the approach to the foundation is 15-20 cm. It is nailed to the foundation with a clamping strip (if it is wooden, then it must be treated with hot drying oil so that it does not rot). But this is done later, after laying a layer of sand and geotextile. So for now, fix the film on the wall, for example, with a few nails.
- 10-15 cm of sand is poured onto the film. It's being compacted. Geotextiles are laid on top. It is a godsend for blind areas - it allows moisture to pass through, redistributes the load, does not tear, does not allow different layers to mix, is not damaged by insects and rodents, and does not allow plants to germinate. And all this is some kind of woven or non-woven membrane (they come in different types). Lay the geotextile so that it overlaps the film laid below, and attach both layers with a strip to the foundation. On the other hand, it must cover the entire remaining height of the dug trench.
- Then there are two options:
- To save money, you can fill the remaining pie with crushed stone, and lay a reinforcing layer on it - metal mesh made of steel rod in increments of 10*10 cm. Concrete can be poured on top.
- If you use paving stones or tiles, the cake will be more difficult. It will be necessary to lay another layer of geotextile on the compacted crushed stone. Lay another layer of sand on it, and then lay protective and finishing tiles on top of the sand.
Two options for constructing a blind area - made of concrete and tiles, rubble stone, etc. This design drains water perfectly.
Soft hidden blind area
Modern waterproofing materials eliminate the need for a protective coating around the house. They effectively retain and drain water, while the cost of such a pie is much lower. In this case, they talk about a hidden blind area. And all because right from the foundation you can sow grass or arrange a flower garden, and all the layers that drain water are located in the thickness of the rock.
Profiled membranes are used to install a soft blind area. They have a nonlinear structure - small protrusions and depressions.
A soft blind area around the house is easy to implement with your own hands. The only thing that may cause some difficulties is the rather large volume of excavation work. The width of the ditch is desirable from 1.2 m to 1.5 m. But the depth can be small - about 25-30 cm.
The procedure for installing a hidden soft blind area is as follows:
- First, the soil is removed and a slope of 3-5% from the house is immediately formed.
- They are treated with chemicals from plants.
- Roll out the profiled membrane over the entire width of the blind area, place one edge slightly onto the wall and secure it, the other is simply left free.
- A layer of geotextile is rolled out on top. It is laid in the same way - one edge is fixed to the wall. Both layers of waterproofing materials can be secured together with one clamping strip.
- Pebbles or a large fraction of screenings are poured onto the geotextile and crushed.
- The next layer is medium and fine screening, and sand on top. Each layer is compacted separately.
- poured on top fertile soil and plants are planted.
Despite the apparent unreliability, this design removes water even better than those made using traditional technologies. But, as you can see, the work is not complicated or expensive. If necessary, you can lay tiles or paving stones on a layer of sand. Then the look will be more traditional.
There is one caveat: if the soil on the site is clay (namely clay) or your house is located on a slope, it will be necessary to supplement the structure drainage pipe. It is laid at a distance of 1.2-1.5 m from the wall of the house, at the level where the geotextile bevel ends (you can lower it a little lower). But at the same time, the membrane and geotextile must cover it from below and from the outer side, so that the collected moisture flows through the perforation into the pipe, and then through it to the sewer or drainage system.
Features of concreting
When installing concrete blind area around the house with your own hands, you need to take into account some of the subtleties of technology.
Firstly, the composition of the solution must be frost-resistant. It’s clear why. You can buy ready-made mixtures, but they are not cheap. You can use additives that increase the frost resistance of concrete. In the simplest case, add more cement. Make a solution at the rate of: one part cement, three parts sand and crushed stone.
Secondly, to avoid cracks, expansion joints must be made. For this, boards with a thickness of 25 mm are usually used. They are treated against rotting with hot drying oil or. Then they place it on the edge, setting the required slope, approximately every 2-3 meters. Secure with metal pins or wooden pegs. When pouring the solution, they can be used as beacons. In the future, the planks will ensure the mobility of the formwork during seasonal soil movements.
And thirdly, to give the surface greater strength and a more aesthetic appearance, it is sprinkled with dry cement, which is rubbed down with a trowel. This is done after the filling is completed. This process is called ironing of concrete. The surface then becomes durable, smooth, with a slight shine.
Results
Installing a blind area around the house with your own hands is not the easiest, but also far from the most difficult task. There are many solutions that will improve the performance of a building and extend its service life.
A blind area is a single continuous covering that encircles a house or other building along the perimeter. Arrangement of the blind area is one of the final stages of construction, i.e. it is done after the building is erected. If the developer has planned to finish the basement with plaster, tiles, brick or other material, the blind area is constructed after the complete completion of the mentioned event.
Useful advice! All tasks associated with arranging the blind area must be completed before the cold weather arrives.
For the manufacture of the structure in question, a variety of materials can be used: paving stones, asphalt, tiles, etc. The most widespread among private developers is concrete blind area. This material is characterized by a long service life, high performance characteristics and a relatively affordable cost.
Blind area around the house 
Concrete blind area 
Stone blind area 
Brick blind area
Many owners do not fully understand the importance of the blind area, considering it an exclusively decorative element of the landscape. Along with this, such a coating performs a number of significant practical functions. After reading the information below, you will learn why a blind area is needed, what materials can be used to arrange it, and how to make such a covering on our own.
As noted, the decorative function of the blind area is one of the main ones, but far from the only one. You can find information about the purpose of the design in question in the following table.
Table. Functions of the blind area
| Functions | Explanations |
|---|---|
| Decorative | The blind area does general view buildings more attractive, solid, thoughtful and complete. |
| Protective | A properly equipped blind area is a reliable barrier to melt water. Given structural element does not allow moisture to come into contact with the supporting structure of the house, due to which the risk of foundation destruction will be significantly reduced. The structure is arranged so that waste and other waters are immediately discharged into sewer system or other suitable place, for which the required surface slope is set. |
| Thermal insulation | Few people pay attention to this moment, and in vain. The presence of a properly equipped blind area helps to significantly reduce the degree of freezing of the soil and, as a result, the foundation, and with it the entire structure. |
| Preventing soil heaving | As noted, the presence of a blind area allows you to reduce the degree of soil freezing. Along with this, soil swelling will also be noticeably reduced. Thanks to this, good protection of the building’s foundation will be ensured from shifts in the ground, which will eliminate the risk of violating the integrity of the supporting structure and deteriorating its characteristics as a whole. |
Design features and requirements for the blind area
The design of the blind area includes 2 main layers. The first one is the underlying one. Its main function is to create a dense, reliable foundation for the overlying layer. The underlying layer can be made with or without a slope. To make this design ball, it is allowed to use crushed stone, gravel, and sand. The recommended thickness of the underlying layer is about 2 cm.
Sometimes the soil around the building is additionally treated with special chemicals - herbicides. The use of these prevents the growth of plant and grass roots in the future, thereby minimizing the risk of compromising the integrity of the supporting structure of the house.
The top layer is a coating that provides a decorative function and protects the foundation from water. Thickness – up to 100 mm. Asphalt, paving stones, concrete and other materials are used to make the top ball.
In addition to the above, the blind area includes other important layers. The structural features of the structure can be seen in the following image.
In order for the blind area to fully cope with the previously mentioned tasks, during its arrangement it is necessary to ensure compliance with a number of important requirements.
- Firstly, the width of the blind area must exceed that of the roof overhang. When arranging a site on sandy soil, it is recommended to make its width 25-30 cm larger than the cornice (the total width should be more than 60 cm). In most cases, the total width of the blind area does not exceed 80 cm, but when working on heaving type soils, this figure increases to an average of 100 cm.
Blind areas: a – clay-crushed stone; b – concrete; c – asphalt; g – cobblestone; 1 – compacted crushed stone 20 mm; 2 – clay; 3 – cement screed 15 mm; 5 – concrete preparation 100 mm; 5 – asphalt 15-20 mm; 6 – crushed stone 10 mm; 7 – cobblestone; 8 – sand preparation 50 mm
- Secondly, the blind area must be made with a slope in the direction of the site. The specific slope value is selected taking into account the characteristics of the finishing coating. For example, in the case of a concrete blind area, a 3-10 degree slope from the walls is made. The minimum acceptable slope, regardless of the material used, should be 1.5 degrees.
- Thirdly, the blind area must be continuous, surrounding the entire perimeter of the building. It is strongly not recommended to make gaps - the overall quality of the design will significantly decrease.
- Fourthly, the blind area cannot be connected to the foundation - these systems are characterized by different degrees of settlement. In view of this, a minimum 1-1.2 cm expansion joint must be maintained between the supporting structure and the surrounding surface. It can be filled with bitumen, sealed with sealant, filled with geotextiles and similar materials, or filled with sand.
Types of blind areas and their purpose
Depending on the material of manufacture, design features, service life and a number of other indicators, all existing varieties The blind area can be classified into 3 main groups. Information about them is presented in the table.
Table. Types of blind areas
| Group of blind areas | Description |
|---|---|
| This group includes monolithic structures made of concrete, asphalted blind areas, as well as coatings constructed using the pouring method (cement mortar is used) over crushed stone with subsequent iron filling. A monolithic structure, all other things being equal, will last no less than the building it surrounds. A significant disadvantage of such a system is the high cost and complexity of the arrangement. This is also true for asphalt: the use of tar, which is a binding element, is financially feasible only when carrying out large-scale asphalt work on roads. Important! If insulation of the blind area is planned, a rigid system is the only possible option– it makes no sense to insulate soft and semi-rigid coatings. Additional disadvantages of rigid blind areas include their low decorative properties - a concrete or asphalt area can hardly be called very beautiful. |
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| The functions of the underlying layer here are performed by a multilayer cushion, and the top layer by paving slabs or paving stones. In addition to tiles and paving stones (the most popular options), reinforced concrete slabs, cobblestones, porcelain stoneware, etc. can be used. Self-leveling coatings are relatively simple to install; they require much less labor and financial investments compared to monolithic systems, but are not suitable for use on heaving soils. |
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| A multi-layer cushion is installed, and a layer of crushed stone is poured on top. They are the least financially costly and labor-intensive. The disadvantage of soft blind areas is their low service life, averaging up to 7 years. Along with this, such a design can be used without any fear in any climatic regions, without paying attention to the type of soil. And it’s not difficult to disassemble a failed soft blind area in order to repair or replace it. Practice shows that it is advisable to resort to using a soft blind area only as a temporary solution if there are problems with finances, time or labor resources– you are unlikely to like doing the same thing every 5-7 years. |
Most optimal variety coatings based on the ratio of cost, quality and appearance are semi-rigid blind areas. They last up to 20-30 years and are suitable for use in almost all climatic zones, with the possible exception of permafrost, are characterized by high maintainability and require relatively little resource expenditure for their arrangement.
An additional advantage of semi-rigid blind areas is their attractive appearance. For example, by making a coating from paving slabs, the owner gets at his disposal a very beautiful site, no different from traditional garden paths. In this case, semi-rigid blind areas are installed in the same order - only the material of the finishing coating differs (usually paving stones or paving slabs).
Prices for paving slabs
paving slabs
The underlying layer (cushion) is made in the same order, regardless of the chosen type of blind area (the only exception is a monolithic concrete system; related issues will be discussed separately).
As you can see in the image, the pillow consists of soil, clay and sand. In the case of a soft crushed stone blind area, a layer of crushed stone is poured on top. If a semi-rigid blind area is being built, a layer of crushed stone and an additional layer of sand are poured over the cushion shown in the image, after which tiles/paving stones are laid. In the case of pouring a hard site, it is arranged sand and gravel bed, sand and gravel are poured, insulation is laid, reinforcement is performed and a number of other activities are carried out prior to pouring the concrete mixture, which will be discussed separately in the corresponding section of the manual.
Sand cushion for the blind area 
Crushed stone pillow
The procedure for arranging the pillow is described in the table.
Table. DIY blind area pillow
| Work stage | Description |
|---|---|
| A trench is dug along the perimeter of the future blind area. The depth is determined by the type of soil. The minimum recommended value is 15-20 cm. When working on heaving soils, the depth should be increased to at least 30 cm. For greater ease of work, you can first make the markings, taking as a basis the recommendations from the article on arranging the foundation, or take the simplest route: Drive metal rods or wooden pegs into the ground in the corners of the future blind area; Drive in intermediate pegs; Stretch a mooring cord (or other similar rope) between the landmarks and dig in accordance with the prepared markings. At the same stage, you can set the previously mentioned gap between the foundation and the blind area, using any of the listed materials, for example, it is very convenient to work with damper tape and polyurethane sealant. Depending on the selected type of blind area, at the same stage you can set the required slope of the structure. To do this, it is enough to simply dig a trench to different depths at the inclination points. The bottom of the trench is carefully compacted. To do this, you can use an ordinary log: take it in a vertical position, lift it up, lower it down with force, and continue until all the earth is compacted. |
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| Drive intermediate pegs vertically evenly into the ground, if this was not done at the marking stage. At the same time, they will serve as supports for the formwork. Bars with a cross section of 2-3 (up to 5) cm will do - it doesn’t make sense anymore. Install supports in half-meter increments. The principle is demonstrated in the image. Armed with a level, mark the height of the formwork on the pegs. You will nail the boards according to the marks. |
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| For the construction of formwork, boards 3-4 cm thick are suitable. Select the height of the elements in accordance with the parameters of the blind area. For greater convenience, you can first mark the boards according to the height of the future layers that make up the pillow. The corners of the structure can be pulled together outside corners. It is preferable to use bolts to fasten elements together - such fasteners are easier to dismantle. Bolts with a diameter of up to 1 cm will be sufficient. Important! If you do not plan to dismantle the formwork in the future, pre-treat its wooden constituent elements antiseptic and wrap it in roofing felt or other insulating material - unprotected wood will soon begin to rot, which is not in the best possible way will affect the quality of the blind area. Note one. The image shows the reinforcement. We don't pay attention to it for now. Note two. The image shows the option with inclined supports. If you wish, you can give preference to this method - this moment is not of fundamental importance. In general, you can do without such supports by ensuring the stability of the boards using bricks/blocks installed on the reverse side. Important! The expansion joint is made not only at the junction of the blind area with the walls of the house, but also across the structure being built. Failure to comply with this recommendation will lead to extremely unfavorable consequences: as a result of soil heaving due to temperature changes, the blind area will crack over time. Transverse seams are arranged with an average 2-meter gap. To ensure the required clearances, install boards up to 2 cm thick at the specified spacing, as shown in the image. Important! All wooden elements structures must be soaked in antiseptic before use. If you plan to install a blind area that does not involve pouring concrete, you can easily do without formwork - it’s simply more convenient. |
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| Fill the trench with a 10-15 cm layer of sand (depending on the initial depth of the hole). If possible, use fine river sand. This layer of the pillow will take on the functions of waterproofing. The backfill is thoroughly compacted. You can use the same method as for compacting soil. For better compaction, soak the sand with water. Important! A thickness of 10-15 cm should be obtained after compaction, and not after the initial filling of the material. Crushed stone is filled with a 5-10 cm layer, again, depending on the initial depth of the trench. It is best to use sand of different grades so that the number of voids in the backfill is minimal. Instead of crushed stone, you can fill in gravel or broken bricks. This layer of cushion will ensure the removal of moisture penetrating through the sand from the overlying structures. Important note! If there is a high location at the construction site groundwater, be sure to lay geotextiles between the sand and crushed stone layers for additional waterproofing. Make small (in the conditions under consideration 5-10 cm is enough) overlaps on the walls of the formwork. Do not forget to maintain the specified surface slope (if provided) when filling with sand and crushed stone. |
The pillow is ready. The further procedure is determined by the characteristics of the type of blind area chosen by the developer. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the instructions for arranging the most common options for the design in question.
Soft crushed stone blind area
In fact, the pillow described above can be considered as a soft blind area made of crushed stone. To broaden your horizons, we invite you to familiarize yourself with an alternative option for arranging such a structure using additional waterproofing material.
First dig a trench and fill in a layer of sand, leveling it and setting the required slope, as in the instructions above, then follow the instructions below.
Table. Soft blind area
| Work stage | Description |
|---|---|
| A layer of waterproofing material is laid on top of the sand. Many developers use roofing felt, but we recommend giving preference to rubimast - it costs a little more, but lasts much longer. In the example under consideration, formwork with a width of 80 cm is installed. The width of the rubimast roll is 100 cm. To avoid cutting the material, simply bend the excess and glue it to the wall using molten bitumen or other suitable composition. |
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| A 10-centimeter layer of a mixture is poured on top of the waterproofing material, including an equal amount of sand and gravel/crushed stone. The backfill is carefully compacted and leveled in compliance with the specified slope. | |
| On top sand and gravel backfill you can pour an additional 3-5 cm (or to the top) layer of crushed stone and compact it well - this way the blind area will definitely not sag while walking on it. |
The temporary soft crushed stone blind area is ready. If you wish, you can hide the formwork boards using decorative borders.
Prices for crushed stone
Basics
As noted, the technology for arranging a blind area with finishing coat in the form of paving stones and tiles remains the same. The choice of specific material is up to the owner, but there are several important notes.
Thus, the use of paving stones is permissible only if the foundation has previously been waterproofed. Among the disadvantages of paving stones, one can note only the relatively high cost.
Tiles are one of the most popular materials widely used in arranging blind areas. This option has a number of significant advantages:
- tiles are much cheaper than concrete in the quantity required to fill the site;
- the material is presented in a huge range of size variations, colors and shapes, which allows you to get exactly the finishing option that the owner wants to see;
- You can lay the tiles yourself, spending relatively little time on it - you definitely won’t have to wait 3-4 weeks for the concrete to harden.
Prices for paving stones
paving stones
Which tile should I use?
When choosing tiles for a blind area, follow the tips below.
Advice one. To perform the work in question, tiles made using the vibration pressing method are best suited. By purchasing such material, you significantly reduce the risk of purchasing a fake, because It is impossible to produce this finish in artisanal conditions - serious, expensive industrial equipment is used to produce tiles of this group.
Vibrocast tiles (the second popular variety) are relatively easy to make in an ordinary garage. It costs less, but the real quality of such products usually remains a mystery.
Tip two. Pre-prepare a plan for the future arrangement of tiles on paper or in a special computer program- this way you can choose the design you like best and make it easier for you to continue doing your work. If you wish, you can use one of ready-made options shown in the images.
Tip three. For paving the blind area, select tiles that will fit well with other paths and other areas with similar finishes located on the site.
Paving technology
You have already made a cushion for the blind area. Further work performed in the sequence shown in the table.
Table. DIY tile blind area
| Work stage | Description |
|---|---|
| As you can see on one of the above images, cushion for blind area with paving tiled has additional top layer in the form of sand backfill. Place 8-10 cm of sand on top crushed stones. Recommendations in regarding leveling and material tamping is similar previously arranged layer. |
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| Proceed to paving the blind area. Lay the tiles from any convenient angle. Move away from you. Place elements according to the principle brickwork, i.e. with offset seams in nearby rows. You can choose a specific installation option from the illustrations suggested earlier or come up with it yourself. |
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| To ensure a tight fit of the tiles/paving stones to the base, use rubber mallet. Work with the tool is carried out in the following order: Tiles are laid; A wooden plank is placed on top of it; The performer carefully taps on the board, trying to press firmly enough, but gently, on the tile with a mallet through the mentioned spacer. Each tile is laid in this order. |
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| Using a level, check the evenness of the tiles in relation to each other and the ratio of the rows. Add sand under the sagging finishing elements, press down the protruding parts of the tiles with a mallet, following the above instructions, while simultaneously maintaining the required slope of the blind area. Pave the entire area in accordance with the sequence given. If it becomes necessary to cut tiles, do it with a grinder. |
Important note! Many developers insist that a layer of cement screed be poured before laying paving stones/tiles. We recommend laying the finish directly on compacted sand - in this case, more efficient drainage of water through the gaps between the tiles will be ensured. In the case of arranging a cement fill, the permeability of the system will decrease, and this threatens the occurrence of ice during the cold season and all the accompanying troubles.
If, due to some circumstances, constructing a blind area without using a cement screed is not possible, after filling the layer of sand, do the following:
- prepare a mixture of 1 share of cement (from M400), 3 shares of sand (sifted, fine-grained, river) and clean water in an amount sufficient to obtain a homogeneous plastic solution of medium thickness;
- spread the solution over the surface of the area being equipped using a trowel or any other suitable tool, then level it with a mop or a long straight strip (rule). The final thickness of the cement layer should be 30-40 mm.
After waiting for the cement to dry, proceed to laying the tiles. It is most convenient to use glue for this purpose, designed specifically for fixing the materials in question. finishing materials. For the procedure for preparation and proper use of glue, please refer to the manufacturer's instructions - these points may differ for different compositions.
Some developers even accept a structure with cement pouring without subsequent finishing as a finished blind area.
This option is possible, but its appearance does not satisfy everyone. If desired, special coloring pigments can be added to the cement composition - the surface will take on a more attractive appearance.
Concrete blind area
An option for owners who are accustomed to doing everything thoroughly and for a long time. Having spent a relatively significant amount once on arranging a concrete blind area, you will have at your disposal a durable, reliable and extremely durable structure.
We will tell you about the procedure for arranging an insulated reinforced concrete blind area. The presence of a thermal insulation layer will have a beneficial effect on a number of key operational and technical characteristics of the foundation, plinth and the entire structure as a whole. If you wish, you can exclude the steps affecting the installation of insulation from the manual and use the same instructions, but it is strongly not recommended to abandon thermal insulation.
Insulated concrete blind area - photo of layers 
Concrete blind area - diagram
Ideally, the width of the insulated blind area should correspond to or exceed the soil freezing depth. In practice, the installation of such a design, firstly, will require very large financial investments, and secondly, it will take away the usable area of the site. In view of this, developers adhere to the “golden mean” of 700-900 mm.
Before starting work, you need to select a suitable thermal insulation material. In order for the choice to be as objective and correct as possible, it is necessary to take into account a number of significant points.
- Firstly, this is the ratio of the cost of insulation and its characteristics.
- Secondly, the operating conditions (in the ground, outdoors, i.e. the material should not rot).
- Thirdly, the climate at the location of the building.
Taking into account the above criteria, the most optimal material foam is used to insulate the blind area. Extruded polystyrene foam performs even better, but it costs more. For most regions of the Russian Federation, a 5-centimeter layer of insulation is sufficient. In particularly cold areas, this figure can be increased to 10 cm. In this case, it is better to install insulation in 2 layers.
The composition of the cushion for a concrete blind area remains similar to previous designs, but the sequence of actions undergoes certain changes.
First of all, you need to understand the nuances of lateral insulation of the structure. If there is no possibility of subsequent dismantling wooden formwork does not bother you (for example, subsequent decoration of visible structural elements with special borders or other suitable elements is planned), you can simply glue the insulation boards to the pre-assembled boards, using a binder composition designed specifically for polystyrene foam materials.
Along with this, it is available alternative option: slate sheets are wrapped in plastic film and deepened into the ground along the blind area. Even if such a structure remains visible after the event in question, it will be much easier to disguise it than wooden elements. This system looks like this:
Improvised formwork with thermal insulation material installed along the entire length of the blind area. You can use bricks or building blocks, installing them on the ground on the back side of the formwork. Will be shown in the following photos.
The polystyrene foam will already stand quite confidently on a pre-compacted base, while it will be supported by the materials poured further. To be more sure, you can bury the slabs a couple of centimeters into the ground or glue the insulation to the slate. It is not worth using mechanical fasteners - each hole in slate leads to a decrease in its strength, and in foam plastic - to the formation of cold bridges.
In this case, insulation can be used to make a damping layer between the base of the house and the blind area. With the help of a separating layer, you can ensure that the slope of the formwork is maintained: for this, it (the damper) must have a greater height in relation to the opposite wall.
After installing the side thermal insulation boards, make the pillow discussed earlier. Its composition will be the same as when arranging a blind area followed by paving with paving slabs.
Table. DIY concrete blind area
| Work stage | Description |
|---|---|
| In this case, it was decided to use two-layer thermal insulation from regular polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. First, a layer of foam is installed. The slabs are laid as closely as possible to each other. Bricks are used for temporary fixation. After covering the entire area with insulation, fill the existing gaps with foam. Let it dry, cut off any excess with a sharp knife and proceed to laying the second insulating layer. In most cases, extruded polystyrene foam boards are equipped with end grooves, the presence of which eliminates the possibility of gaps occurring between elements laid next to each other. Important! Thermal insulation layers are laid with bandaged seams, i.e. the joints of the top row should be offset from the joints of the bottom row. If you need to trim the slabs, you can use an ordinary sharp knife for this. |
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| For reinforcement you can buy ready mesh or make it yourself from reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm. The rods are assembled into a mesh with cells 150x150 mm and fastened at the intersections using binding wire (cheaper) or special clamps (faster and easier). The mesh must be laid indented from the base. To ensure this, special support clamps are used. If you don’t have a sufficient budget, you can get by with stones, broken bricks, etc. In this case, it will not be possible to provide a 5-centimeter offset as when pouring a foundation, because... this will lead to an inappropriate increase in the height of the blind area. Try to maintain at least a 5-10mm gap. |
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| Concrete is prepared according to a standard recipe: a proportion of cement of a grade not lower than M400 is mixed with 3 shares of sifted sand and 4-5 shares of gravel or crushed stone. Water is added in such an amount that the output is a plastic, homogeneous mass of normal thickness. Pouring the finished mortar is carried out in the same way as a cement-sand mixture, i.e. the composition is laid out on top of the base and leveled using a mop or other suitable device, for example, a rule - a long straight strip. In this case, the function of beacons will be taken over by the side walls of the formwork. After pouring, pierce the concrete with a reinforcing bar in several places to release excess air, fill the resulting depressions with mortar, sprinkle the surface with a thin layer of dry cement and leave the structure to gain strength. According to GOST, this requires 28 days. To protect the structure from precipitation, cover it with plastic film. Periodically (every 1-2 days) lift the film, spill the concrete with a small amount of water and cover it back - this will allow it to react maximum quantity cement, which will ensure a higher final quality of the concrete structure. |
Useful advice! Before pouring the concrete mixture, cover the parts of the insulation protruding above the ground with fiberglass mesh. To attach it to the foam, ordinary PVA glue is suitable. The presence of a mesh will protect the insulation from possible damage.
In this case, it was decided to abandon the intermediate transverse damper partitions made of boards (described earlier). The structure is insulated in 2 layers and on the sides, as a result of which the thermal insulation simultaneously takes on the function of dampers, and it is better not to tear the reinforcement - the strength will decrease.
Prices for concrete mix
concrete mixture
Drainage issues
To ensure effective removal of precipitation, the blind area is equipped with a drainage system. The design is elementary in its execution:
- an asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 10 cm or more is cut lengthwise into 2 parts. A grinder is suitable for cutting;
- the resulting pipe halves are laid along the perimeter of the blind area close to it;
- In the corners of the blind area at the junction of the pipes mentioned above, solid drainage systems are placed. The same asbestos-cement pipes will do. Trenches are dug to accommodate them. Select the dimensions of the pit so that there is at least 5 cm of free space on the sides and top of the pipe. First fill the bottom of the trench with a 5-centimeter layer of sand and compact it. The pipes themselves are wrapped in geotextile and directed towards the structure for collection. waste water. The specific option depends on individual characteristics arrangement of the site.
The described drainage looks like this:
To improve the appearance of a concrete blind area, it can be tiled or decorated with other material of the owner’s choice.
Good luck!
Video - DIY blind area
As noted above, the blind area allows water to be drained from the foundation of the building, thereby extending the life of the building. After all, as you know, the foundation is the foundation. If any problems arise with the foundation, this is reflected in the form of cracks in the walls, etc. The blind area is made around the perimeter of the house. Its width, as a rule, is at least 80 cm. A wider blind area will better drain moisture.
Work on arranging the blind area begins with marking and removing the top layer of soil about 20 cm thick. The soil is removed so that there are no destructive factors that will affect the blind area. This applies to plant roots and seeds that remain in the soil. In the process of removing soil, you should strive to make a slope away from the house. The best option To drain water from the foundation of the house, a drainage system will be installed, which will be located along the outer edge of the blind area. A separate article will be devoted to the drainage system itself in the near future.
I wanted to focus a little more on the angle of inclination. If we recall the old Soviet standards, then per 1 m of blind area width the slope ranged from 50 to 100 mm. Accordingly, a blind area 1 m wide will have a height of 50 to 100 mm. The far edge will be almost flush with the ground. A blind area with such a slope will drain water well, but it will be uncomfortable to walk on. And accordingly, on the contrary - at a lower angle it will be more comfortable to walk, but the flow of water will be worse. The way out of this situation is 15 mm per 1 m width, which is both effective and comfortable. However, it is worth noting that the angle also depends on the materials used for the blind area. If the surface is rough, then the angle should be large.
What is the design of the blind area
By its design, the blind area consists of a covering and an underlying layer. Clay is used as bedding, which is placed in the prepared recess and compacted. The coating can be asphalt or concrete with a thickness of 10 cm. In principle, it can be used for blind areas construction waste, crushed stone, crushed brick.
All this is compacted and then filled with cement mortar. I would like to draw your attention to this important point, like expansion joints. They are strips of plywood, slats, which should be pre-impregnated with oil and treated with bitumen. They are necessary to prevent cracks from appearing as the concrete gains strength. The slats can be located from 1.5 to 3 m from each other. To increase the strength of concrete, cement is sprinkled on top and rubbed. Called this process“ironization”. The design of the blind area can be different. The main thing is that she fulfills her role.
Types of blind areas
To fully answer the question - how to properly make a blind area in a private house, you need to dwell in more detail on what it can actually be made from? Let's look at the sand blind area. To make the blind area decorative, sand can be used as a material. Sand is poured into the trench, after which it is filled with liquid glass and a hardener. This makes it possible to make the surface durable and quite hard. As a result, you will receive good protection of the foundation from moisture and decorate the landscape.
Now you can purchase a ready-made solution in relevant stores.
In addition, the blind area can be made of turf. This option is quite good in the absence of cement. Today, although there are no difficulties with cement, we will still consider this method of making a blind area. The process consists of the following: a 0.5 m layer of soil is removed around the perimeter of the house, the soil is compacted and constructed drainage system from coarse sand.
The next layer consists of clay, which needs to be compacted thoroughly and a slope formed. Next, fertile soil and turf are laid. In order for such a blind area to fulfill its function, moistening and mowing for some time are necessary after its arrangement. This will contribute to the formation of elastic turf that does not erode. In addition, unlike a concrete one, such a blind area looks much more attractive.
How to care for the blind area
Naturally, in order for the blind area to serve as long as possible, it requires care. If any problems arise with it and no attention is paid to them, this will lead not only to the destruction of the blind area itself, but also to the negative impact of moisture on the foundation of the house.
What actually can happen to the blind area and how to care for it? From time to time, cracks may appear that violate the tightness of the element in question. They must be sealed with cement mortar. If the blind area has moved away from the foundation, you need to use special sealants to seal cracks. Thus, it is not only possible to extend the service life of the structure, but also maintain its original appearance. In general, we can talk about the blind area for quite a long time. Let's dwell on what was said above.
I hope the material on how to properly make a blind area with your own hands was useful to you.
The work is not limited to just the construction of a private house. It will be necessary to make some efforts to arrange the home so that it is as reliable, comfortable and durable as possible. One of the main stages, carried out after the completion of the main construction work, is the creation of a blind area around the house. This element performs a number of important functions. If you wish, you can make the blind area yourself; there is nothing super complicated about it.
Some homeowners ignore the need to build a blind area. And absolutely in vain! This building element helps to increase the service life of the building and generally creates more comfortable living conditions. The blind area protects the foundation and the surrounding land from the harmful effects of various types of water. Atmospheric and melt water, in the absence of obstacles, can erode the soil so much that moisture seeps into the foundation and then into its base. The consequences of such exposure can be very severe, including destruction of the foundation and the house.
Thus, the blind area is a very important element, especially if the house is built on a shallow foundation, the base of which is located close to the top layer of soil. When wet, the base of the base will lose its strength and begin to sag, which will lead to a significant decrease in the strength of the concrete structure, up to its destruction.
But even if the house is built on a strong, buried foundation, the need for a blind area cannot be ignored. It must be present in any case, regardless of the type of foundation, soil and level of precipitation characteristic of a particular region, etc.
Preparing to create a blind area around the house
There is nothing complicated about constructing a blind area yourself; you just need to take into account and follow the basic recommendations in order to get the most reliable and durable building. It is first necessary to prepare materials and understand the main stages of the technology.
Selecting the width of the blind area
Choose the appropriate width of the structure. Since the “shoulders” of this structure bear the function of protecting the foundation of the structure, the width of the fill should be quite large. To reduce the risk of foundation destruction under the influence of moisture, it is worth taking care to drain water from the walls of the building to the greatest possible distance. Optimal width the blind area is at least 80 cm.
Quite often, the blind area is made so wide that it simultaneously serves as a convenient path. This point also needs to be taken into account at the stage of planning the blind area, so that in the future you do not have to move sideways along such a path. Thus, the most convenient width of the blind area, which can provide both reliable protection, and freedom of movement, is 150-250 cm.
The blind area is carried out with a certain slope, which can ensure the drainage of rain and melt water from the house. According to building codes per 100 cm of structure width there should be at least 5-10 cm of slope. Thus, if the blind area is, for example, 100 cm wide, then the edge that meets the wall of the house will rise by 5-10 cm, and the opposite side will be at the same level with the ground.
Such a descent is quite sufficient to effectively drain water from the building. However, it is difficult to move around such a structure. But if you reduce the angle of inclination, the flow of liquid will not be as effective. In view of this, the slope is made at a level of 1.5 cm per 100 cm of the width of the structure. This is the optimal value, which does not interfere with walking along the path and promotes effective moisture removal.
Materials for the installation of a blind area
The independent construction of the design in question requires the presence of certain devices. The list of materials may vary depending on the selected type of blind area. The most common option is concrete construction.
First you need to clear the area for the blind area, lay a reinforcing mesh of rods with a diameter of at least 6 mm, connect the rods with a special binding wire, install the formwork and pour the concrete solution. This is the general scheme. However, each stage has its own characteristics and requires separate consideration.
Set for pouring blind area
- Shovel for digging a trench.
- Level.
- Wheelbarrow.
- Manual tamping.
- Materials for moisture insulation.
- Material for thermal insulation.
- Clay.
- Crushed stone.
- Sand.
- Reinforcing bars or finished structure with cells 100x100 mm.
Remove everything from the walls of the house that could interfere with the work, collect the devices listed above and begin marking. For this step you will need some rope and metal pegs. When creating markings, make sure that the structure has the same width in all places.
Guide to pouring a blind area
The blind area makes a big contribution to the durability of the foundation, so its creation must be approached with maximum responsibility.
The structure consists of an underlying and a top layer. The first is responsible for creating an even, compacted base for the next layer. It is created from sand and small gravel. The total thickness of the layer is about 2 cm. You can also use clay. When choosing a specific bedding material, focus on the material of the top layer.
The top layer is designed to create water resistance and increase the resistance of the structure to water. Can be created from small cobblestones, clay, concrete and other materials. The thickness of such a layer is about 10 cm.
The instructions will discuss the procedure for arranging the most popular type of blind area - concrete. Having dealt with its construction, you can make a blind area from any other materials suitable for this purpose without any problems.
How to make a blind area with your own hands. Digging trenches and erecting formwork
The technology for arranging a blind area around the house requires mandatory reinforcement. Thanks to the reinforcing mesh, the rigidity and durability of the concrete structure will be increased. As noted, you can buy a ready-made mesh or assemble it yourself from metal rods. Cells with a side of 10 cm are considered optimal.
Special attention must be paid to the expansion joint. It is created at the junction of the basement of the house with the blind area. Due to such a seam, the said structures will be protected during the process of soil subsidence. That is, the blind area will be able to sink along the seam without causing damage to the base of the house. The standard seam width is 1-1.5 cm. The seam must be filled with roofing felt, sand-gravel mixture or bitumen of your choice.
You can also use a special rope for filling, the manufacture of which uses foamed polyethylene.
It is important that the diameter of this bundle is approximately ¼ greater than the width of the expansion joint and fits into the gap as tightly as possible. For more convenient compaction of the bundle, take plywood or other similar material.
The blind area technology requires that seams be present across the concrete structure, approximately every 200-300 cm. They will protect the blind area from ruptures during frosts. It is most convenient to make transverse seams using wooden slats. It is enough just to install the slats so that their top is located at the same level with the upper border of the concrete pour. Also, expansion joints must be present in the corners of the building. Don't forget to take into account the slope of the blind area.
To protect the slats from rotting, they must be pre-treated bitumen mastic, waste oil or other similar material. Also, expansion joints must be present in the corners of the building.
Concrete for blind area. Preparation and pouring
Concrete is prepared from 1 part cement (it is best to use the M400 grade material or the less budget M500), two parts sand and four parts crushed stone.
After pouring, the concrete must be compacted and leveled. Wood slats, previously used to create transverse expansion joints, will simultaneously perform the functions of beacons by which you can navigate during the work process.
After pouring is completed, the concrete should be covered with a cloth; burlap is ideal. The cloth should be regularly moistened with water to prevent the concrete from drying out and cracking.
In the end, all that remains is to wait until the concrete gains strength. On average, this takes 1 month. If desired, you can complete the finishing lining of the blind area. Acid-resistant bricks are perfect for this.
Thus, there is nothing complicated about pouring the blind area around the house yourself. Just follow the instructions you received and everything will work out.
Good luck!
Video - DIY blind area around the house
