We have already mentioned shell rock, its characteristics and properties as a building material in the article - “”, here specialist, professional builder Oleg Gots will give advice on how and how to insulate such a house.
They are suitable for many houses of standard construction - for example, covered with the cement “coat” popular in the 90s or plastered and then painted.
The thermal insulation properties of a shell wall, especially if it is only 20 cm, are clearly not enough for modern house. But insulating it alone will not solve all problems. In some cases, this should be done last.
Firstly, you should consider existing insulation attic floor.
It is effective if it is the following “pie” (from bottom to top): vapor barrier film, mineral wool with a thickness of at least 15 cm, hydrobarrier film, boardwalk on the joists.
Secondly, you should deal with the floors. They are not only sources of heat loss, but sometimes also conductors of dampness into the house. Capillary moisture, rising from the ground, creates increased humidity in the house and a feeling of cold. To eliminate this problem, you need to vapor-proof the underground space: remove wooden floor, lay a thin screed of cement-sand mortar, paste one layer of roofing felt over the screed, insulate the foundation walls from the inside and install the insulation on top of the vapor barrier layer.
Upon completion of this work, you can return flooring in place. It is better to use extruded polystyrene foam or high-density mineral wool mats as insulation.
Having solved the problems with ceilings and floors, you can move on to insulating the walls.
Most efficient technology- insulation from outside. In this case, it will be enough to insulate the house with expanded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 5 centimeters (grade no lower than 25) or facade mineral slabs with a thickness of 7 cm.
Before installation, it is necessary to dry test the strength of fastening the dowels to the shell rock. In any case, they should be chosen as long as possible.
A windproof film must be secured over the thermal insulation layer.
As finishing you can use plaster, siding or ventilated façade.
Alternative option– insulation of the house from the inside under the wall plasterboard structures. In this case, use semi-rigid mineral slabs with a thickness of 5 cm and always a vapor barrier film.
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Hello!
We don't work on weekends, sorry.
Look what happens. If the house permanent residence, then option with warm plaster not very suitable, since for Odessa you need an 8.5 cm layer, and this is quite problematic to do well (such a layer thickness). According to calculations, you need 37 mm of cotton wool, if you round up to the positions that (in terms of thickness) are on sale, then this is 50 mm. They are rarely 40 mm (maybe they are imported to Odessa, you can check). But you don’t write what type of façade you want. This could be a facade with plastering over insulation, then wool with a density of 135-145 kg/m3, a special position for external plaster, and you are unlikely to find 40 mm, it will be 50 mm. If the facade is to be covered with materials such as siding, panels, then wool with a density of 40-60 kg/m3, then a superdiffusion membrane, a gap and cladding. Specify what kind of façade you plan to have. I can’t help with prices, unfortunately, there is too much variation in the positions of wool and plaster (and it’s generally unclear at what prices who does the work).
There is no need to plaster the facade using cotton wool (neither under a facade with lining, nor under a facade with plastering over insulation).
Ask (I will answer on Monday).
Hello friends!
Please help me with advice, here's the gist:
An error was made during the construction of a private house, there is no horizontal waterproofing and the walls are laid with a “shell” directly on the foundation. The foundation is 140 cm. has vertical waterproofing, under the foundation there is a cushion of crushed stone 40 cm. UGV in spring time rises up to 20 cm from the soil surface. Finishing work (neither inside nor outside) has not yet been carried out, but we have now begun work on waterproofing the floor.
1) What is the best way in this case to cut off moisture rising along the foundation? One expert suggested making grooves (inside and outside the building) 2 cm deep in the seams between the foundation and the shell and treating them with KALMAFLEX penetrating waterproofing. There was also advice to drill holes every 10 cm in shells in a checkerboard pattern outside and inside the building and “pour” liquid glass into them.
2) Is there a need to do vertical waterproofing walls or somehow treat them to protect them from dampness and mold? The interior will be finished with plasterboard, and the outside will be insulated (foam plastic - 50 mm, or basalt wool-50mm) and plaster, the walls are laid out in one “shell” - width 38 cm.
Thanks everyone for participating!
Topic status: Closed.
At one time we were working on building facades. Here you need to decide how economical insulation you want to get and how reliable it is.
Insulated facades are either ventilated or soft. But the essence of insulation is approximately the same. Some kind of insulation on the disc dowel and special composition attached to the facade and protected either facade plaster on a grid or hanging system. The insulation can be moisture-resistant foam ( blue), or slab insulation made of basalt wool. If you are not going to use hanging system, then you better use dense insulation from 35 to 40 kg/m3
It is possible to insulate the house from the inside, but here you need to use exclusively mineral wool insulation, basalt wool, etc., it is undesirable to use polystyrene foam, since it is a polymer and emits heat harmful substances. The insulation is laid under plasterboard slabs, and the shell rock outside is simply plastered and painted. It should be noted that in the thermal technical calculation all layers are taken into account, starting from external plaster. finishing with a layer of drywall, indoors. It is also worth noting that the more wet processes there are during the work, the lower the quality of insulation, due to the need for highly qualified performers. I wish you good luck in insulating your home!I advise you to insulate with mineral wool. Saves heat by 30 - 40%. Good savings gas and light. We did this last fall and did not regret it.
I have country house from shell rock. I want to insulate it so that it is not hot in summer and cold in winter. What material is best to use for insulation? There are such slabs called “Clinker” foam board, with ceramic tiles on the front side. A wall made of these slabs will resemble brickwork; the seams between the slabs must be coated special solution in the form of putty, called “grout”, it is advisable to coat it before attaching it to the wall, so as not to climb on it later assembled wall and lubricate..... saves time and is safer. The cost of one slab is appreciable 2500 rubles, the slab is approximately one meter in size!
If we talk about insulation with outside at home, polystyrene foam is now widely used. The insulation is the cheapest and not the worst in terms of efficiency.
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You're right. Polystyrene foam is not the worst insulation material. Only this is a polymer, and like any polymer it emits harmful substances. There was a time when it was banned for insulating facades, since it not only burns, but also emits toxic substances when burning. If funds allow, it is better to insulate with mineral wool slabs and protect them with some kind of curtain façade. It is both beautiful and practical.
I have country house, built from shell rock. My outer walls are one and a half stone thick. To be honest, I don’t see any point in insulating my house, since shell rock itself retains heat in rooms very well. And in winter you still need to heat yourself with something, whether you insulate the walls or not.
Entgktybt gtyjgk
I have a country house made of shell rock. I want to insulate it so that it is not hot in summer and cold in winter. What insulation material is best to use? Foam insulation is the most economically beneficial and reliable option, but only outside the house. But I want to offer you my own version, so I built it separately standing kitchen a couple of years ago. I laid a wall of shell rock and covered it sand-lime brick, and between them inserted foam plastic 3 mm thick, the density of a quarter. For two years now there have been no problems either in winter or in summer.
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Shell rock is a material that looks very impressive, so it is advisable to carry out insulation with inside premises. Inexpensive material- “isover”.
Yes, in fact, the options are the same as with any other house - either mineral wool or polystyrene foam, whichever you find cheaper.
I think it’s better to use mineral wool; at least it breathes, unlike foam plastic or penoplex. We insulate our house with it.
I also think that it is better to insulate with mineral wool, not only does it breathe, it is also resistant to rodents, unlike polystyrene foam, it also retains moisture in the house and mice live in it like at a resort.
So everyone got it right: “mineral wool breathes.” How does he breathe? In any case, waterproofing is needed, so the ability to breathe will be limited.
Vadim Martynenko said:
Only mineral wool (basalt or glass)! And that's 5% success. The rest is a strict technology of work and the composition of materials and elements.
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I agree, the choice of insulation is not the most important thing. Technology and materials are very important. So that they don’t redo it later, like I did.
I have a country house made of shell rock. I want to insulate it so that it is not hot in summer and cold in winter. What insulation material is best to use?
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What did you redo, if it’s not a secret?
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Three years ago I hired workers to insulate and agreed on mineral wool slabs. It's ok, I'm looking forward to it warm winter. And in the middle of winter, the plaster began to crack, and immediately there was cotton wool underneath. No reinforcement. I had to beat the hell out of everything and re-cover it.
Dominion,
What is there to think about? Of course, 5 centimeter foam plastic will provide adequate thermal insulation. Then plaster it with a special mixture, then cover it with bark beetle and paint it. That's it, rejoice! The prices, by the way, are not very bad.
Dominion,
Those are freaks, honestly. I don’t know how you can not know the basics when working. Now everyone can see that the facade is covered with mesh under the plaster. trouble(((Click to expand...
Yes, the trouble is, I later took Weber Vetonit myself for the exterior and painted them with the same paint on top. Well, we've had a great winter for two winters now, no surprises.
Topic status: Closed.
The porous structure of shell rock, that is, the presence of air cavities inside it, improves the thermal characteristics of the stone. Let's try to figure out whether this is enough for construction warm home Or do you still need to close the pores of the shell rock with finishing?
By and large, this material is an insulator, since a wall made of 20 cm thick M-25 blocks better protects rooms from the penetration of cold than a structure made of ceramic bricks 51 cm thick.
The low thermal conductivity of shell rock can be easily checked, without the use of special technical means: just put the stone on the stove and heat it up. After a couple of minutes, one side of it will become very hot, while the other will be just warm, but no more.
But still leave the shell walls without additional insulation shouldn't. And primarily because of the heterogeneity of the structure of this stone. The percentage of porosity from stone to stone can vary significantly, so it is worth purchasing shell rock from one batch.
Even if the purchase is made from the same supplier, it is better to immediately take with a possible reserve. However, this does not guarantee that some shell rock units do not have large or even open pores.
In this case, the shell wall will not breathe, saturating the house fresh air and regulating its microclimate, but simply through, forcing an increase in heating costs.
Of course, you can check each stone when purchasing, choose “shells” of the M-25 brand weighing at least 15 kg (and preferably 16 kg), which have a denser structure. But the correct measure is to install an external barrier.
It can be done in several ways, but the most optimal are laying a layer of facing bricks at a distance from the main wall (with ventilation gap), implementation of “wet” insulation technology or creation of a full-fledged ventilated facade (with mineral wool as insulation). Such a house will be warm, reliable and still environmentally friendly.
Finishing issues
The natural texture of the surface of shell rock is indeed a definite decoration in itself and can be advantageously used when designing the interior of a building.
An open shell wall is especially suitable for homes where wood and other materials are used in decoration. natural materials. And yet the whole house is in the loft style (in which the surfaces of the structures and even utility networks intentionally left open) not everyone will like it. 
Therefore, in most cases you will need interior decoration. Most experts do not recommend covering walls made of shell rock with plasterboard: drilling of blocks will be required to secure the profiles, and due to the heterogeneity of the structure, it is impossible to guarantee their durability.
Ideal for finishing “shell” walls plaster will do. Moreover, pre-fix the reinforcing metal mesh not required - shell rock, due to the same porous structure, has high adhesion, that is, the strength of adhesion to other materials.
True, when carrying out work, it is advisable to first carry out the so-called “spraying” - apply a leveling rough layer of mortar. Perform on top of it finishing from cement-sand or gypsum plaster(the latter is only for dry rooms; it is not suitable for bathroom walls).
Shell rock also needs exterior decoration– you shouldn’t leave it unprocessed, because weathering may adversely affect its durability. Applying vapor-permeable plaster to the outside of the facade will protect the stone, and at the same time close the pores of the material and prevent drafts from appearing in the house.
Do-it-yourself insulation of a house built from shell rock - how and with what?
The tips will apply to many houses of standard construction - for example, those covered with a cement “coat”, popular in the 90s, or plastered and then painted.
The thermal insulation properties of a shell wall, especially if it is only 20 cm, are clearly not enough for a modern home. But only its insulation will not solve all problems. In some cases, this should be done last.
First, you should consider the existing attic insulation.
It is effective if it consists of the following “pie” (from bottom to top): vapor barrier film, mineral wool with a thickness of at least 15 cm, hydrobarrier film, plank flooring on joists.
Secondly, you should deal with the floors. They are not only sources of heat loss, but sometimes also conductors of dampness into the house. Capillary moisture, rising from the ground, creates increased humidity in the house and a feeling of cold. To eliminate this problem, you need to vapor-proof the underground space: remove the wooden floor, lay a thin screed of cement-sand mortar over the ground, paste one layer of roofing felt over the screed, insulate the foundation walls from the inside and mount the insulation on top of the vapor barrier layer.
Upon completion of this work, you can return the floor covering to its place. It is better to use extruded polystyrene foam or high-density mineral wool mats as insulation.
Having solved the problems with ceilings and floors, you can move on to insulating the walls.
The most effective technology is insulation from the outside. In this case, it will be enough to insulate the house with expanded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 5 centimeters (grade no lower than 25) or façade mineral slabs with a thickness of 7 cm or more.
Before installation, it is necessary to dry test the strength of fastening the dowels to the shell rock. In any case, they should be chosen as long as possible.
A windproof film must be secured over the thermal insulation layer.
Plaster, siding or ventilated façade can be used as finishing.
An alternative option is to insulate the house from the inside under wall-mounted plasterboard structures. In this case, use semi-rigid mineral slabs with a thickness of 5 cm and always a vapor barrier film.
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Insulation of a house made of shell rock.
Do-it-yourself insulation of a house built from shell rock - how and with what? The tips will apply to many houses of standard construction - for example, those covered with a cement “coat”, popular in the 90s, or plastered and then painted. The thermal insulation properties of a shell wall, especially if it is only 20 cm, are clearly not enough for a modern home. But only its insulation will not solve all problems. In some cases, this should be done last. First, you should consider the existing attic insulation. It is effective if it consists of the following “pie” (from bottom to top): vapor barrier film, mineral wool with a thickness of at least 15 cm, hydrobarrier film, plank flooring on joists. In
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Hello, Sergey!
It's nice to see the question asked so specifically :-). I answer:
1. clinker hollow brick (125mm) - min. wool (50mm) - shell (380mm) then gypsum and in places where high humidity sand plaster. Everything is in order, both in terms of warmth and in the sequence of layers.
2. facial solid brick(cheaper than clinker) - air gap(I don’t know how many cm, please calculate) - then the same thing. With this option it’s worse. Look, the air gap provides very little heat. It is not airtight, so it has little effect on thermal characteristics walls. In numbers, it looks like this: in total, for your region, the wall should provide a heat transfer resistance of 2.8 (no less), and an air layer 100 mm thick can provide only 0.16 of these 2.8. And if you make the layer larger, for example 200mm, then 0.16 remains unchanged (there is no point in making it larger, there is no point anyway :-)). And such a wall, with a 100mm layer, lacks another 50mm of wool insulation.
3. I would offer you a “mixed option”. If you don't care appearance If you are satisfied with the front solid brick, then you can make the wall like this: this brick, 50mm cotton wool, and 380mm shell. The thickness of the wool does not change depending on the type of brick on the outside (clinker or regular). I will explain why the thickness of the wool does not change. It (cotton wool) is usually sold in 50mm and 100mm sizes. There is no cotton wool 45, 38, etc. Therefore, when calculating with clinker wool, 45 mm is needed, when calculating with conventional clinker, 48 mm, this is still a position of 50 mm.
4. By how much wool lives in such a wall. It is very important here what kind of cotton wool. For such a design, you need to take a density of 50-65 kg/m3. Less dense wool may sag. European wool manufacturers have research results from special “aging chambers,” and these studies indicate that in such a wall, wool of the required density “lives” as long as “the building itself lives.” From my own experience I can say this. 10 years have passed since the completion of the construction of a residential complex, 16 floors, also the first climate zone, like yours, there was mineral wool in the wall with a density of 50 kg/m3. Feedback from people now (they installed new windows, a section of the wall was visible) - no changes in the wool. In terms of living comfort, everything is fine, warm. And many such houses were built, if something happened with the cotton wool, then it would definitely be “heard of” :-). The main question here is the density of the wool (don’t skimp on it), because I can’t vouch for positions of 35 kg/m3. And 50-65 is quite normal.
5. On my own :-). I live in the first climatic zone, so the wall should also provide the same 2.8 as yours. I want a wall without insulation, if possible. Most likely it is a gas block (300 mm) + facing brick, such a wall is just enough for the first climate zone.
Everyone who has been to Crimea has seen the elegant, light-colored houses decorating the coast more than once. They are made from - common building material, which is mined there in large quantities. His low price attracts cottage owners, and they choose this stone. However, you need to understand that shell rock has its own characteristics. Firstly, the porous structure of the blocks and their thickness of 0.2 m does not promise comfortable thermal insulation of the house. In this article we will talk about wall insulation
Dependence of shell rock brand and thermal insulation
The presence of natural cavities in shell rock gives the stone a remarkable property - a high thermal insulation value. Is this enough to build? warm home? Sometimes it itself is used as insulation. For example, M25 stones with a width of 0.2 m are more reliably insulated in winter than brickwork 0.5 m wide.
So you can inspect each block of grade M25 and higher for the presence of holes, and reject those that are not suitable. The weight of such blocks should be 15-16 kg; they have a denser structure. But the surest solution is to build a protective layer on the outside.
Apply:
- laying bricks at a short distance from the brick for air circulation;
- installation of mineral wool as insulation;
- installation with polystyrene foam. Here they recommend pre-painting and plastering the house.
3 stages of insulation
It is correct to first insulate the attic and roof. The main step will be laying a vapor barrier film, then mineral wool with a thickness of more than 0.15 m, and finally a water barrier film. All these layers are fixed with boards on the roof joists.
The floor is thermally insulated necessary, because a huge loss of heat occurs through it. This is dealt with through vapor barrier and insulation of the foundation walls inside.
Then they start insulation of house walls from shell rock. Effective method thermal insulation is called external method. There are technologies here, which we will consider below.
How to insulate shell walls?
It is necessary to take into account the moisture absorption capacity of shell rock. Therefore, it is correct to resort to a vapor-permeable insulation layer that will remove moisture from load-bearing walls into the insulation. Many craftsmen recommend using basalt, adobe, reed, perlite, and sawdust concrete.
The most common shell insulation layer is mineral wool. Its layer must be at least 0.05 m. different regions it may be more - you need to take into account the influence of climate. There are even forms for calculating this layer, which you should definitely turn to if your house is, say, far from the southern sea coast. Mineral wool has a number positive points, for example, not flammable. It is used everywhere.
As for the brick, you need to take into account the ventilation between it and the shell. This is done to avoid the appearance of fungus and other harmful organisms.
Expanded polystyrene is also very popular now. The treated, painted, plastered house is upholstered with this insulation. Due to it, the cracks and seams between the shell rock blocks are hidden, and the “draft” disappears. Heating costs are reduced by 1.5-2 times. After fixing the foam, it is plastered. The result is a finished, neat look with good thermal insulation properties.
The choice of shell rock wall insulation is yours. Take advantage of knowledge about necessary materials and feel free to build warm walls!
