According to safety rules, the repair of all hazardous equipment in operation, which includes gas heating units must be carried out by specially trained qualified personnel. However, in remote areas, the arrival of a specialized repair team can be expected for a very long time. Therefore, in case of emergency, if it does not concern automation and gas pipe, you can do it on your own and repair the gas boiler yourself.
Brief information about the device of the heating system
Modern gas heating systems are complex systems. Control of their work is carried out with the help of a whole complex automatic devices, which you need to familiarize yourself with before starting an independent repair of gas boilers.
Basic elements of a security group:
- Draft sensors, designed for 75 0 C. This device makes it possible to monitor the condition of the chimney. If normal smoke extraction fails, the temperature rises and the sensor is triggered. Optimally, in addition to the thrust sensor, a gas contamination detector is purchased.
- The monostat provides protection for turbocharged gas units from impaired removal of combustion products due to a clogged chimney or heat exchanger.
- The limit thermostat is designed to control the temperature of the coolant in the heating installation. When the water boils, the overheating sensor turns off the device.
- The flame control electrode, when its absence is detected, turns off the operation of the heating unit.
- The blast valve serves to control the pressure. When the pressure rises above the critical value, portionwise discharge of excess coolant occurs.
Attention! The wear of the glands leads to a constant flow of coolant from the valve. The remedy is to replace the valve.
Ways to solve some problems with self-repair of a gas unit
May fail various knots heating installation and by different reasons. These can be low-quality parts, violation of operating requirements, sharp blows to the component parts of the unit.
- Most common cause failure of volatile devices is a failure of settings. Repairing a gas boiler with your own hands should begin with checking the correct settings and the presence of open contacts. When troubleshooting, the unit is set to the "Winter" mode and the setting is set to the maximum heating temperature.
- If the pump does not work, then either you just need to replace the cable, or you will have to change the pump itself.
- If the burner is not supplied with gas, it must be ensured that gas cock open, the gas line is not clogged, the voltage supply is OK. If the problem persists after all these actions, most likely, you will have to change the electronic board.
Shutdown of parapet boilers in very coldy can be caused by ice on the chimney. The formation of an ice crust is explained by the content of water vapor in the discharged combustion products. As a result of freezing of ice growths and difficulty in exiting flue gases the device automatically turns off and attempts to turn it on again will be unsuccessful.
Advice! Automation of boiler equipment in this case does not fail, but to resume work heating equipment it is enough to remove the ice from the smoke grate. In order to avoid such stops of the units, it is necessary to periodically inspect the chimney in severe frosts.
Do-it-yourself gas boiler repair is far from always possible and only in cases of visible and simple malfunctions. Complicated breakdowns can be repaired qualitatively and reliably only by specialists with necessary knowledge and equipment.
Many malfunctions of a gas boiler can be fixed by hand without resorting to expensive services. gas service or equally expensive private maintenance and commissioning specialists gas equipment. The only rule that we will immediately make a reservation is that you need to understand what you are doing and for what purpose.
Seasonal Service
Seasonal maintenance of a gas boiler consists in cleaning it from contaminants and checking its performance. To access the elements of the boiler, it is necessary to dismantle the casing or casing. To do this, we determine the method of its fastening, different models boilers this can be done in different ways. Most often, these are several self-tapping screws and several latches in the upper part of the casing.
Having access to internal parts boiler, when performing seasonal maintenance, we do not remove anything else. Using a soft brush for metal, a toothbrush and fine-grained sandpaper, we proceed to remove carbon deposits from all parts of the boiler:
- heat exchanger;
- burners;
- igniter, if available.
We use the above tool, where it is convenient, without particularly leaning on the metal brush. Then we blow out the collected dust with a compressor. You can use a rubber tube or a tube from a medical dropper by simply blowing into it and directing its other end into the boiler.
Important! Any work on the boiler is carried out with the gas valve closed.
Using a thin awl or a strong needle, you need to clean all the holes on the burner and igniter, and then, after cleaning them again, for example, with a toothbrush, blow them out again. In the presence of overhead sensors, the places of their contact with parts of the boiler must be slightly cleaned sandpaper and then wipe with a soft woolen cloth.
The ignition and flame control electrodes are cleaned well only with a woolen cloth, without the use of cleaning agents. If there are immersion temperature sensors, it is necessary to remove them from the sleeves, select the liquid present there from the sleeve, thoroughly clean the sleeve inside using metal ruff small size or loose cut steel cable, right size. After coarse cleaning the sleeve is cleaned with a cloth wound around a screwdriver, then the sleeve is filled two-thirds with machine oil and the sensor is installed.
After completing these works, the boiler is carefully vacuumed. In accessible places, dust and dirt are cleaned with a damp cloth. We put the cover in place. We check the presence of draft in the chimney by attaching a sheet the size of a notebook to the chimney hole, or by letting a trickle of smoke into the ignition hole of the igniter, the gas valve on the descent to the boiler must be closed.
We check the places of seals and possible gas leaks by soaping. In the presence of normal draft, a test run of the boiler is carried out, which must be filled with coolant. In parallel with the performance of work on cleaning the boiler, its visual inspection is carried out for mechanical damage and coolant leaks. At this seasonal service can be considered complete.
Cleaning the heat exchanger
Produced by solution of hydrochloric acid purchased in trading network and designed for that very purpose. Cleaning is carried out for the main heat exchangers of wall-mounted gas boilers and cooking heat exchangers hot water. The cross section of the channels of such heat exchangers is small, which is why they are prone to contamination with salt deposits.
Cleaning the water jacket of floor gas boilers, as a rule, is not performed. To perform cleaning, the heat exchanger must be removed. To do this, remove the boiler casing, unscrew the supply pipes to the heat exchanger, after draining the water from the boiler.
Remove the heat exchanger from the boiler. Wear rubber gloves and use plastic container to collect waste acid. The method is not difficult. Carefully pour the acid solution into the heat exchanger until it is completely filled. In the event that the heat exchanger is clogged with scale, active foam will be released. Leave the heat exchanger for 10-15 minutes.
Drain the spent acid into a container and refill the heat exchanger new portion. We are waiting for the same ten minutes. Drain the solution and flush the heat exchanger running water. We put a piece of hose on the nearest water tap and spill the heat exchanger with water. Fill the heat exchanger again with acid solution. If there is no active foam generation, and when the heat exchanger is spilled with water, no significant flow resistance is visible, then the heat exchanger is washed out and can be replaced in reverse order.
Cleaning the burner
The method of cleaning the burner from soot has already been described above. However, with a strong soot, it is not always possible to cope using only mechanical cleaning. For such cases, special chemicals. It makes no sense to recommend anything, all means are quite effective. The cleaning method is reduced to applying the product in the form of a solution to the surface to be cleaned, holding it for a certain time and then removing the exfoliated carbon deposits, more often mechanically. In more detail with the method of cleaning with one or another means, you need to familiarize yourself with its purchase.
In particularly severe cases, for example, when coolant gets on the burner, it must be completely removed from the boiler, immersed in a cleaning solution for several hours. Then remove the burner, ignite in the flame of a portable gas burner. After one more application of the solution, using a metal ruff or brush, remove the remaining deposits.
Checking the flue duct
Checking the flue duct is carried out using a mirror. We introduce the mirror into the channel at a slight angle. In the mirror we should see the light at the end of the chimney. When performing this operation, it is convenient to use the so-called selfie stick, with a mirror attached to it.
Elimination of water leakage at the junction of pipelines
To eliminate the leak, it is necessary to unpack the connection, clean the threads from old tow and paint. Then, using FUM tape, sealing thread or thread lock, pack the connection again. Check the quality of work by filling the pipeline and the boiler with water.
Checking and repairing gas leaks
All accessible gas leaks must be washed with a soap solution or special tool to check for gas leaks. Washing solution is prepared from laundry soap, planing it into a container with warm water and stir until a thick foam is obtained. If gas escapes, a soap bubble will be blown on the foam. You can fix the leak in the same way as water leakage through threaded connections.
Burner replacement
Replacing the burner of a gas boiler will require more attention and care. Purchase a new burner should be exactly the same model as the one installed on your boiler. Never install a burner that is not designed for your boiler model.
The beginning is the same - remove the boiler casing. Having gained access to the burner, we carefully inspect the tubes and sensors connected to the burner. Their location should be remembered so that when assembling a new burner, do not confuse which one to connect to.
How to withdraw gas burner. 1. Fixing the burner to the combustion chamber body. 2. Wires for the electrode igniter and flame sensor. 3. Pipe for supplying gas-air mixture
In connection with great variety it is impossible to give specific recommendations on models of boilers, however, in any case, there will be:
- gas supply pipe to the burner;
- gas pressure sensor on the burner;
- gas valve.
There may be a control tube from the draft sensor or an electrical connection (wires) from the same draft sensor or temperature sensor. When using a burner of the same model as yours, it will not be difficult to remember and connect all the wires and tubes.
With replacement carob burner installed in wood stove, even easier to do. We unscrew the screws of its fastening to the plate and two tubes: gas supply and gas supply to the igniter. We take out the old burner, insert a new one, fasten the tubes, tighten the burner mounting bolts.
It is not worth repairing the primitive automation of such a burner, the result may lead to unsafe operation of the boiler. The most difficult is to replace the burner of a wall-mounted gas boiler stuffed with electronics and large quantity sensors. But do not panic here either, the principle is the same: it is good to remember the location of all connections to the burner.
Trying to increase their importance, gas specialists say that such a burner should be "tied" to the boiler by flashing the electronic unit or adjusting the boiler. The burner is just iron, which cannot be adjusted in any way. Adjustments may require combustion as such, but this is no longer relevant to replacing the burner itself. If the burner is made for the model of the boiler on which it is installed, then the combustion will be correct, however, provided that they did not try to adjust it on the old burner.
Temperature sensor replacement
The need to replace the temperature sensor arises when, when setting a specific temperature regime operation, the boiler either does not comply with it, or, even worse, goes into boiling mode, which can lead to a rupture of the water jacket of the boiler or its heat exchanger.
Temperature sensors according to the method of installation in the boiler can be overhead and submersible. Attachable sensors are installed on the boiler pipes on clips that press the sensor against this pipe. Their replacement is quite simple. Disconnect the old - put the new one. We put the chip (electrical contact) in place of the old one.
Immersion sensors can be of two types: direct immersion and located in a sleeve filled with oil. When replacing the first, it is necessary to drain the water from the boiler, unscrew the sensor. Pay attention to how the thread was sealed at the sensor mounting point. This can be as simple as tapered threads, using threadlocker (glue), gaskets, or o-rings. Sealing with flax and other materials is not used. Using the same sealing method, install new sensor.
When replacing the sensors installed in the sleeves, there is no need to drain the water from the boiler. After releasing the fixing nut, pull out the sensor, check for oil in the sleeve, install a new sensor, fixing it with a nut. Most simple option Such a sensor is an alcohol thermometer installed in the sleeve for visual control of the temperature in the boiler.
Content:
Any gas equipment (including boilers) is classified as household appliances heightened danger. A mixture of natural gas and air is extremely explosive. Therefore, the repair of gas boilers with their own hands can only be carried out by a specialist who has experience in this kind of work and is well acquainted with design features modern heating boilers. However, timely diagnosis possible faults of such equipment makes it possible to facilitate the task of gas service specialists called for urgent repairs, and extends the period of reliable operation of the boiler itself.
Possible malfunctions in boiler safety devices
The developers of such equipment are trying to improve the safety of boiler operation, for which they use monitoring and tracking devices. All of them can fail.
Traction control sensors
They are devices that monitor the outlet pressure of combustion products after the combustion chamber. The principle of operation of such sensors is based on the constant comparison of the actual flue gas pressure with the minimum required. The necessary limiting limit is always indicated in the extended technical data of the gas boiler.
With a drop in such pressure indicators, the flue gas velocity decreases and, consequently, the temperature on the chimney walls increases. In addition to the danger of burning the walls (which is quite possible if a chimney made of ordinary galvanized steel was installed), with this option, combustion products are likely to be sucked back into the combustion chamber of the boiler. Since an appreciable amount of oxygen is present in the combustion products, even in bound form, there is a danger of an explosion. Usually, the draft sensor has a factory setting of 70-75 ° C, therefore, when the temperature rises above the specified limits, the boiler turns off.
Indoor air sensor
With an unsatisfactorily laid chimney, part of the natural gas necessary for the operation of the boiler enters the room. The concentration of gas can be very small, and can not be immediately detected by organoleptic means. This can (and does) lead to severe poisoning. If the concentration of natural gas is exceeded, the sensor turns off the unit. 
Pressure meter
It is installed on boilers with a turbocharged principle of operation, protecting the unit from penetrating due to reverse thrust combustion products into the combustion chamber of the boiler. Because of this, the service life of the boiler is sharply reduced, as is the stability of operation. The monostat thus controls the stability of the pressure in the gas network.
Thermal sensor
For double-circuit boilers designed not only for the needs individual heating, but also for the production of hot water, a sensor is provided that monitors the temperature of the coolant and the temperature on the outer surface of the heat exchanger housing. If these temperatures exceed allowable level, the boiler will also turn off. This precaution improves the working conditions of the heat exchangers of the unit.
Flame control sensor
The health of the ignition system is monitored by a flame control sensor. The absence of fire can be caused by:
- poor ventilation of the room;
- poor traction.
Unignited natural gas can be sucked from under top cover body into the room. As a result of a gradual increase in concentration, an explosion can also occur.
Pressure meter
The hot water pressure in the hot water and heating circuit is controlled by a pressure sensor. If this indicator is exceeded, the connecting fittings of pipelines of both the heating system and the hot water supply system may fail. Therefore, in this case, the automation will also turn off the boiler. Thus, repairing a gas boiler with your own hands allows you to perform diagnostics in full.
Control and tracking systems of double-circuit gas wall-mounted boilers
Depending on the design of the units, a different level of configuration of automation systems and control over the operation of the specified equipment is provided. It should be noted that, regardless of the type of such systems, they always provide a 100% guarantee of reliable operation. An example of a complete set for the most common types of gas wall-mounted boilers is shown in the table.
| Machine model | Ignition chamber type | Complete set of control and automation equipment | |||
| Self-diagnosis system | Burning uniformity control | Water temperature sensor | The presence of an electronic ignition system | ||
| Baxi (Italy) | closed | there is | there is | there is | there is |
| Valiant (Germany) | closed | there is | No | there is | there is |
| Protherm (Slovakia) | open | No | there is | there is | there is |
| Bosch (Germany) | closed | there is | there is | there is | there is |
It should not be thought that the boilers trademarks Valliant or Protherm are less safe, just set them additional features do not include those that may be relatively rare in demand. By this, the manufacturer reduces the price of their products and simplifies the rules for using the boiler.
Thus, do-it-yourself repair of a gas boiler in the absence of high-quality knowledge is undesirable. This should be done by a specialist. In addition, in the presence of a widely developed system service centers such work is much more qualitative and will be performed with a guarantee production personnel data centers.
Troubleshooting wall-mounted gas boilers
If you have the right to perform such work and have completed advanced training courses, then repairing wall-mounted gas boilers with your own hands is quite within your reach.
Features of gas equipment from different manufacturers often makes it impossible to have full knowledge of all types of gas wall-mounted boilers encountered, therefore, a gas boiler repair video greatly facilitates the tasks of repair and diagnostics. The following working tool is required for repair:
- gas key - for dismantling emergency or damaged sections of the gas pipeline at the entrance to the gas boiler;
- portable electronic gas analyzer - for exact definition places of gas leakage;
- calibration screwdriver - to adjust the electronic ignition system, if the source of leakage is eliminated, and the boiler still does not ignite;
- tester - to determine the current electrical parameters electronic ignition board;
- universal pressure gauge - for prompt setting of the current gas and water pressure parameters in the boiler circuit;
- heat gun - for diagnosing the current state of the chimney.
It should be noted that all of the above devices must be annually verified and calibrated in a certified center for the provision of such services. Otherwise, do-it-yourself repair of gas boilers will not only not lead to an improvement in stability or even the possibility of operation, but will also worsen the quality of the functioning of this equipment.
Prices for the repair of gas wall-mounted boilers are determined by the nature of the work performed and the complexity of the identified problems. Excluding cost Supplies they make up:
- Departure of a specialist to diagnose a malfunction - from 2000 rubles. + from 30 rubles/km for a remote user.
- Replacement of one node - from 2000 rubles.
- Setting operating parameters - from 1000 rubles.
Possibilities to fix some problems yourself
A number of diagnostic procedures and minor repairs can be carried out without calling a specialist. Typical instruction for the repair of gas boilers includes the following in the list of such works:
- Restoring the original settings in case of their sudden reset (we are talking about the "Winter" and "Summer" modes, with the help of which the boiler is started). For example, this can happen when the unit is carelessly transported. If open contacts are detected, they should be set to the “Winter” position, after which a trial run of the boiler should be performed.
- Missing launch circulation pump. If the connecting contacts are OK, then the cause is a malfunction of the pump itself. The vacuum pump must be replaced, fixing it with your own hands is an almost unbelievable thing.
- The gas supply does not turn on: the cause may be a clogged gas pipeline. It is blocked and blown through, for example, with a vacuum cleaner. After cleaning, the gas pressure in the gas pipeline is checked with a pressure gauge and must comply with technical specifications boiler.
- Loud hum in chimney. Happens in cold winters, and is caused by the formation frozen ice in pipes. Eliminated by installing a steam trap or blowing the chimney with a strong stream of hot air from a heat gun.
All work to eliminate the above problems is carried out on the eve of putting the boiler into long-term operation.
Do-it-yourself gas boiler repair video will help to more accurately understand the sequence and nature of the operations performed. Accurate compliance with the provisions of the boiler operating instructions is the key to its high-quality and long-term operation.
Many malfunctions of a gas boiler can be fixed by yourself, without resorting to the expensive services of a gas service or no less expensive private specialists in the maintenance and adjustment of gas equipment.
The only rule that we will immediately make a reservation is that you need to understand what you are doing and for what purpose.
Seasonal Service
Seasonal maintenance of a gas boiler consists in cleaning it from contaminants and checking its performance. To access the elements of the boiler, it is necessary to dismantle the casing or casing. To do this, we determine the method of its fastening, for different models of boilers this can be done in different ways. Most often, these are several self-tapping screws and several latches in the upper part of the casing.
Having gained access to the internal parts of the boiler, when performing seasonal maintenance, we do not remove anything else. Using a soft brush for metal, a toothbrush and fine-grained sandpaper, we proceed to remove carbon deposits from all parts of the boiler:
- heat exchanger;
- burners;
- igniter, if available.
We use the above tool, where it is convenient, without particularly leaning on the metal brush. Then we blow out the collected dust with a compressor. You can use a rubber tube or a tube from a medical dropper by simply blowing into it and directing its other end into the boiler.
Important! Any work on the boiler is carried out with the gas valve closed.
Using a thin awl or a strong needle, you need to clean all the holes on the burner and igniter, and then, after cleaning them again, for example, with a toothbrush, blow them out again. If there are overhead sensors, the places of their contact with the parts of the boiler should be lightly cleaned with sandpaper, and then wiped with a soft woolen cloth.
The ignition and flame control electrodes are cleaned well only with a woolen cloth, without the use of cleaning agents. If there are submersible temperature sensors, it is necessary to remove them from the sleeves, select the liquid present there from the sleeve, thoroughly clean the sleeve inside using a small metal ruff or a loose piece of steel cable of a suitable size. After rough cleaning, the sleeve is cleaned with a cloth wound around a screwdriver, then two-thirds of the sleeve is filled with machine oil and the sensor is installed.
After completing these works, the boiler is carefully vacuumed. In accessible places, dust and dirt are cleaned with a damp cloth. We put the cover in place. We check the presence of draft in the chimney by attaching a sheet the size of a notebook to the chimney hole, or by letting a trickle of smoke into the ignition hole of the igniter, the gas valve on the descent to the boiler must be closed.
We check the places of seals and possible gas leaks by soaping. In the presence of normal draft, a test run of the boiler is carried out, which must be filled with coolant. In parallel with the cleaning of the boiler, it is visually inspected for mechanical damage and coolant leaks. At this seasonal service can be considered complete.
Cleaning the heat exchanger
It is produced with a solution of hydrochloric acid, purchased in the distribution network and intended specifically for this purpose. Cleaning is carried out for the main heat exchangers of wall-mounted gas boilers and heat exchangers for hot water preparation. The cross section of the channels of such heat exchangers is small, which is why they are prone to contamination with salt deposits.
Cleaning the water jacket of floor gas boilers, as a rule, is not performed. To perform cleaning, the heat exchanger must be removed. To do this, remove the boiler casing, unscrew the supply pipes to the heat exchanger, after draining the water from the boiler.
Remove the heat exchanger from the boiler. Wear rubber gloves and use a plastic container to collect the spent acid. The method is not difficult. Carefully pour the acid solution into the heat exchanger until it is completely filled. In the event that the heat exchanger is clogged with scale, active foam will be released. Leave the heat exchanger for 10-15 minutes.
We drain the spent acid into a container and refill the heat exchanger with a new portion. We are waiting for the same ten minutes. Drain the solution and rinse the heat exchanger with running water. We put a piece of hose on the nearest water tap and spill the heat exchanger with water. Fill the heat exchanger again with acid solution. If there is no active foam generation, and when the heat exchanger is spilled with water, no significant flow resistance is visible, then the heat exchanger is washed out and can be replaced in reverse order.
Cleaning the burner
The method of cleaning the burner from soot has already been described above. However, with strong soot, it is not always possible to cope using only mechanical cleaning. For such cases, special chemicals are used. It makes no sense to recommend anything, all means are quite effective. The cleaning method is reduced to applying a solution in the form of a solution to the surface to be cleaned, holding it for a certain time and then removing the exfoliated carbon deposits, more often mechanically. In more detail with the method of cleaning with one or another means, you need to familiarize yourself with its purchase.
In particularly severe cases, for example, when coolant gets on the burner, it must be completely removed from the boiler, immersed in a cleaning solution for several hours. Then remove the burner, ignite in the flame of a portable gas burner. After one more application of the solution, using a metal ruff or brush, remove the remaining deposits.
Checking the flue duct
Checking the flue duct is carried out using a mirror. We introduce the mirror into the channel at a slight angle. In the mirror we should see the light at the end of the chimney. When performing this operation, it is convenient to use the so-called selfie stick, with a mirror attached to it.
Elimination of water leakage at the junction of pipelines
To eliminate the leak, it is necessary to unpack the connection, clean the threads from old tow and paint. Then, using FUM tape, sealing thread or thread lock, pack the connection again. Check the quality of work by filling the pipeline and the boiler with water.
Checking and repairing gas leaks
All accessible gas leaks must be washed with a soap solution or a gas leak tester. The solution for soaping is prepared from laundry soap, shaved into a container with warm water and stirred until a thick foam is obtained. If gas escapes, a soap bubble will be blown on the foam. You can fix the leak in the same way as water leakage through threaded connections.
Burner replacement
Replacing the burner of a gas boiler will require more attention and care. Purchase a new burner should be exactly the same model as the one installed on your boiler. Never install a burner that is not designed for your boiler model.
The beginning is the same - remove the boiler casing. Having gained access to the burner, we carefully inspect the tubes and sensors connected to the burner. Their location should be remembered so that when assembling a new burner, do not confuse which one to connect to.
How to remove a gas burner. 1. Fixing the burner to the combustion chamber body. 2. Wires for the electrode igniter and flame sensor. 3. Pipe for supplying gas-air mixture
Due to the wide variety of boiler models, it is impossible to give specific recommendations, however, in any case, there will be:
- gas supply pipe to the burner;
- gas pressure sensor on the burner;
- gas valve.
There may be a control tube from the draft sensor or an electrical connection (wires) from the same draft sensor or temperature sensor. When using a burner of the same model as yours, it will not be difficult to remember and connect all the wires and tubes.
Replacing a carob burner installed in a wood-burning stove is even easier to handle. We unscrew the screws of its fastening to the plate and two tubes: gas supply and gas supply to the igniter. We take out the old burner, insert a new one, fasten the tubes, tighten the burner mounting bolts.
It is not worth repairing the primitive automation of such a burner, the result may lead to unsafe operation of the boiler. The most difficult is to replace the burner of a wall-mounted gas boiler, stuffed with electronics and a large number of sensors. But do not panic here either, the principle is the same: it is good to remember the location of all connections to the burner.
Trying to increase their importance, gas specialists say that such a burner should be "tied" to the boiler by flashing the electronic unit or adjusting the boiler. The burner is just iron, which cannot be adjusted in any way. Adjustments may require combustion as such, but this is no longer relevant to replacing the burner itself. If the burner is made for the model of the boiler on which it is installed, then the combustion will be correct, however, provided that they did not try to adjust it on the old burner.
Temperature sensor replacement
The need to replace the temperature sensor arises when, when a specific temperature mode of operation is set, the boiler either does not comply with it, or, even worse, switches to boiling mode, which can lead to a rupture of the boiler water jacket or its heat exchanger.
Temperature sensors according to the method of installation in the boiler can be overhead and submersible. Attachable sensors are installed on the boiler pipes on clips that press the sensor against this pipe. Their replacement is quite simple. Disconnect the old - put the new one. We put the chip (electrical contact) in place of the old one.
Immersion sensors can be of two types: direct immersion and located in a sleeve filled with oil. When replacing the first, it is necessary to drain the water from the boiler, unscrew the sensor. Pay attention to how the thread was sealed at the sensor mounting point. This can be as simple as tapered threads, using threadlocker (glue), gaskets, or o-rings. Sealing with flax and other materials is not used. Using the same sealing method, install the new sensor.
When replacing the sensors installed in the sleeves, there is no need to drain the water from the boiler. After releasing the fixing nut, pull out the sensor, check for oil in the sleeve, install a new sensor, fixing it with a nut. The simplest version of such a sensor is an alcohol thermometer installed in a sleeve for visual control of the temperature in the boiler.
