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The first task after installing the toilet in place and connecting it to the sewer system is to install the cistern fittings. From correct installation and quality regulation of this plumbing equipment will depend on uninterrupted work the entire system. The fittings of the drain tank is a device that ensures that it is filled with water after emptying during draining, automatic regulation the amount of drained water and control of its overflow. How to properly install the tank fittings, read our article.

Drain tank valve device

The fittings for the toilet cistern consists of the following components:

located at an angle of the drain;
an overflow pipe installed on the side of the drain hole;
valve covers with rubber;
tank filling mechanism;
drain button mechanism.

Before you set up the toilet fittings, consider its main components.

Tank filling mechanism

This device ensures that the toilet bowl is filled with water to a certain level. This mechanism includes:

float fixture;
stop valve.

A float attached to a metal or plastic lever moves up or down as the water level in the tank changes. When filling the tank with water, the float rises, reaching the maximum level. The lever connected to it closes the shut-off valve, and water does not enter the tank from the plumbing system. When draining the water, the float lowers, the lever opens the access of water from the pipe to the toilet bowl.

Water drain mechanism (bleed mechanism)

The flush mechanism is designed to access water from the tank directly into the toilet. Components of the descent mechanism:

drain siphon;
release lever (handle).

The siphon hermetically closes the drain hole, preventing water leakage. There are several types of siphons. The simplest kind drain siphon - the familiar “pear” to everyone - a rubber cylinder, similar in shape to a plunger. The device for draining water into the toilet bowl (raising the “pear”) most often is either a lever located on the side of the tank, or a handle on the lid, which must be pulled up to flush the water. More modern version descender - a button that is located on the front wall of the tank. Such a mechanism is most often installed on tanks that are built into the wall.

Installation and adjustment of fittings

After installing the toilet bowl in its place and then connecting the toilet bowl to the sewerage system, the next step is to install the cistern fittings: video offered as small instructions will help you get the job done right.

Installation of toilet cistern fittings

Let's consider the installation technology of the fittings of the toilet bowl:

To put on drain mechanism rubber pad.
Install the mechanism in the tank, fasten with a plastic nut.
Put plastic or iron (depending on configuration) washers on the fixing bolts and rubber gaskets. Insert screws into holes. On the other hand, put on a plastic washer and tighten the nut.
Slide a rubber o-ring over the plastic nut. If a new ring is used, sealing is not required. If a ring that has already been in use was used, all joints should be thoroughly lubricated with sealant.

Pro tip: Careful inspection of all structural details can reveal minor casting defects. In this case, you will also need to use a sealant. The installation site of the sealing ring must also be smeared with a layer of sealant, having previously cleaned it.

Install the cistern on the toilet seat and secure it with nuts.
Attach the filling mechanism. Attach the sleeve from the water pipe.
Put the tank cap back in place. Screw on the drain button.

Pro tip: Nothing should be additionally wound on the thread of the mounted mechanism to drain the water when putting on the sleeve. Try not to skew, so as not to strip the threads and spoil the part.

Armature adjustment

Installing a toilet and cistern should not cause much difficulty. But in some cases, additional adjustment of the toilet fittings may be necessary. So, to adjust the height of the drain valve:

Disconnect the rod from the overflow pipe.
Press out the cup retainer.
Move up or down the rack.

The water level in the barrel is adjusted as follows:

Adjust the position of the glass - raise or lower it along the guide, leaving a distance from the top of the glass to the upper edge of the tank at least 45 mm.
Install the overflow pipe 20 mm above the maximum water level and 70 mm below the top level of the rack.

To adjust the small flush, the small flush float must be moved up or down relative to the overflow tube. How to set up a full flush? Move the shutter (up or down) relative to the glass.

Adjusting the toilet fittings to full or low flush implies that moving the float or damper downwards increases the flow of drained water.

The toilet bowl is an integral household element of any apartment, and it is always designed for long term services. In addition to its external part, it has a draining device, also called a fitting. It is this equipment that needs periodic maintenance and sometimes under renovation. In addition, during the initial installation of the toilet bowl, it is very important to correctly select all of its elements.

The outer part of the toilet bowl consists of the following elements:

The fittings for the toilet bowl perform the functions of draining and filling water into the tank. It consists of the following elements:

Assembled armature looks like this.

Components and principle of operation of the drain system

rack with a tank;
lid;
button for flushing (now 2 buttons are often used).

a float that regulates the filling of water into the tank when the level is insufficient;
a shutter that closes the hole in the tank when the flush is completed;
traction in the form of a bar or chain.

The cycle of the toilet bowl is shown in the video.

A schematic representation of fittings for a toilet in the figure below.

Pressing the siphon cover opens access to the pipe where the water drains. As a result, the level of the water in the tank drops, and the float filled with air drops.

The tank works in 2 modes - draining and pouring water.

In flush mode, the toilet flushes waste by mechanically opening the drain hole and supplying a large volume of water. In old mechanisms, a special handle rises, in new ones, buttons (one or two) are pressed. If there are two buttons, then pressing them simultaneously gives a fuller pressure, while one button gives a standard force pressure.
In the mode of supplying water to the tank, it comes from the pipe through the side channel. The float drops and water flows freely into the tank. When it reaches the desired level, the current stops due to the rise of the float.

The operation of the device is based on the principle of a water seal - the drain pipe always has a curved appearance, due to which there is always a certain volume in it pure water. It blocks the access of smells from the sewer to the apartment. Excess water from the tank also flows into the same pipe, so it never overflows and does not heat the room. Schematically, the circulation of water is shown in the figure.

In this case, water can enter the tank in two ways:

The bottom feed mechanism assumes that water enters the tank from below. The float moves vertically and presses on the device (membrane) that closes the drain, as a result of which, when the optimum filling level is reached, the flow of water into the container stops.
The top feed mechanism is more traditional - water comes from special pipe due to the movement of the float down, and then when it reaches optimal amount, the float rises and blocks access. This mechanism is simpler, but it is noisier than the first one.

The device for the action of the fittings for the toilet bowl is discussed in detail in the video.

Thus, the fittings for the toilet bowl work due to the ordinary forces of attraction.

Varieties of toilet bowls

There are quite a few types of toilets. a large number of. This diversity is due to different appearance, different fusion mechanism. pressure force, etc.

So, according to the location of the drain pipe, they distinguish:

toilet bowls with horizontal drain;
with oblique drain;
with vertical outlet.

By type of drain, toilet bowls can be:

horizontal (cascade);
circular (shower).

In the first case, water enters the toilet bowl directly and flushes waste with a strong stream. The second option is more efficient, since the pressure goes along the inner surface of the rim, due to which water turbulences are formed, which well entrain all objects. At the same time, a circular drain is quieter than a horizontal one, since the water flows more evenly.

By type relative position cistern and bases of the toilet bowl distinguish their types:

compact;
monoblock;
angular;
separated.

The first 3 varieties form a single whole with the tank and vary depending on the size of the toilet room. The second is separate, and the tank can often be hidden in the wall. Such types are often installed in large shopping centers.

Also, toilet bowls can be made of different materials:

faience (in most cases);
metal (for example, in train cars).

vacuum toilet

Separately in a row is a vacuum toilet. It uses a different drain mechanism. Toilet fittings in this case works not only due to the draft of water, but also with the help of air flow. Its main difference from the usual ones is that it includes:

valve that opens at the touch of a button;
vacuum pump, which ensures the occurrence low pressure in a sealed chamber.

When the button is pressed, the valve opens, air begins to be sucked into the toilet due to the greatly reduced pressure in the chamber. This air, along with water, provides strong pressure to remove residue. At the same time, a characteristic sound is emitted, which was heard by everyone who used the toilet on long-distance trains - they are there in all cars.

IMPORTANT. If usually from 4 to 7-8 liters of water is used for draining, then the vacuum toilet spends no more than 1.5-2. In fact, it saves 2-3 times more water, how conventional system. This is achieved through the assistance of air in the formation of pressure. Therefore, vacuum toilets are often installed in apartments.

Types of fittings for the toilet

The fittings for the toilet bowl are its most important link, the functioning of the system as a whole, as well as the duration of its trouble-free use, depend on the correct choice and installation of which.

The classification of fittings depends on their device. For example, according to the method of actuating the drain mechanism itself, it happens:

exhaust fittings (rod) - to drain, the handle simply rises or the rope with the tip twitches, the locking element opens the drain hole, and water enters the waste bowl;
push (another name - push-button) - the most common option with a push-button drain.

Depending on the features of the float device, there are:

piston valves - the float is engaged with the piston by a special lever that moves the piston horizontally. A special gasket is glued to the lower end of the piston, which closes the water supply when the optimum level is reached;
membrane - instead of a gasket, a membrane made of rubber or silicone is installed. It reliably blocks access to excess volumes of water. Serves for a very long time, therefore it is considered the most correct choice;
the croydon valve provides vertical movement of the piston; it is not used in modern toilet bowls.

Perhaps the most important classification of toilet fittings is based on the principle of its operation.

Shut-off valve for the toilet

This name describes main function this mechanism. It closes the hole with the water supply when there is enough liquid in the tank. On the contrary, it opens a hole. when the waste was washed away. The components of such a system are:

a glass where the mechanism is located;
valve with attached membrane;
float;
thrust;
guide.

When flushing occurs, the float goes down following the falling water level, the thrust presses on the valve and opens it, as a result of which the volumes new water enter the container. Water will be poured until the float returns up with it, and the membrane reliably closes the valve.

Drain fittings for the toilet

The flush fitting for the toilet provides a process for direct flushing of waste. In addition, it provides an emergency discharge of water when the tank is full for some reason.

Drainage is provided by opening the drain hole with a piston and closing immediately after flushing due to gravity.

Fittings for the toilet should be optimally suited for each specific device and its technical specifications. One of these important indicators is the features of the supply of new water to the toilet tank.

Toilet fittings with bottom connection

As already mentioned, this is a more efficient and quieter way to supply water. It is often installed in modern toilets. In these cases, fresh water is pumped from the plumbing below, directly into the tank with the toilet bowl.

It also creates a more aesthetic appearance of the device as all communications are hidden from view.

In cases with bottom water supply Special attention when buying fittings for the toilet, you should pay attention to airtight gaskets. The fact is that the forced supply of water from the bottom up creates a constant pressure on the pipe, as a result of which leakage is often observed. However, reliable sealing of all connections makes it possible to practically eliminate this phenomenon.

Side connection

This is classic version which can be found in any old apartment. Water is poured through a special hole on the side, and it is located above the water level.

The fittings in this case are brought directly to water pipe where the water comes from. It has a push button valve with a metal button.

You can learn more about the types in this video.

How to choose fittings for the toilet

If the question arose of replacing old fittings or buying a toilet bowl and a device for draining new apartment, then before making a choice, you need to evaluate under what parameters of the bowl and toilet bowl you select drain systems, how important water saving, noise and pressure, aesthetics are for you.

IMPORTANT. The last factor to consider is the price factor. You can choose among a particular product cheaper offers in various stores, but choosing the cheapest model initially is more expensive for yourself. The fact is that the poor-quality articulation of components, the short-lived material of which they are composed, will not allow the system to function for as long as we would like. There will often be cases when a leak occurs or the flush becomes weaker, etc. Therefore, it is better to pay extra for quality than to spend time and money on solving problems.

Models and prices

Quality models are supplied to the market by manufacturers famous brands, such as Wirquin, Optima Siamp, AlcaPlast and some others. Approximate prices they are presented in the table below.

The fittings for the toilet bowl and its components as a whole are completely affordable, and installing them yourself will not be difficult. The cost of it increases not only depending on the initial quality of the parts. but also on the complexity of the mechanism. So, two-button drain systems are more expensive. Besides. some of them are equipped with a manual flush stop system - this saves water consumption.

Replacing fittings for the toilet with your own hands

You can install fittings by inviting a plumber, but if you understand well, you can do it yourself. Moreover, when buying, the kit always comes with an instruction that describes in detail the installation algorithm.

Video instructions for replacing the toilet frame

When installing the system with your own hands, the main elements with which you will work will be:

float;
twists - connect the float to the crane;
supply fitting;
float valve, which is attached to the fitting.

Schematically, the system looks like this.

AT general view you need to carry out the following sequence of actions:

When it comes to replacing fittings, the old one is carefully removed first. To do this, the water supply to the tank is shut off (usually there is a special control valve for this), and the nuts and screws supporting the piston racks are carefully unscrewed. All fittings are unscrewed and the system is removed.
The elements of the new fittings are assembled according to the instructions: the drain mechanism is installed on a special sealed gasket. Then it is screwed into the tank with a plastic nut.
The bolts are inserted into the holes, and on the other hand they are screwed with nuts, and plastic washers are put on top.
The tank with the assembled fittings for the toilet is attached to the bowl. This is usually done with the self-adhesive rubber that comes with the kit, as well as with bolts that are carefully tightened with nuts.
Next, a hose is connected through which water will be supplied to the tank.
If the armature has additional mechanisms they need to be adjusted to suit your needs. For example, you can choose the optimal position of the glass. moving it up or down; you can change the position of the drain pipe a little. In the process of operation in the first days, take a closer look at how much water is spent. If too much is poured out, then you need to adjust the fittings so that less water enters the tank. More details can be found here

IMPORTANT. When assembling the entire system, pay special attention to tightness - carefully fasten all connections, tightly fit rubber gaskets. In the first week after installation, you need to be especially careful to check for leaks. If even small droplets are formed, then the system must be disassembled and reassembled, since in the future the gaps will only increase.

Possible problems during operation

Over time, during the operation of any, even the highest quality fittings for the toilet, failures in the system may be detected:

Water flow from outer side branch pipe. Here the reason is obvious - a leaky gasket. Perhaps it was installed incorrectly, or it has already worn out and moved away from the surface. To begin with, you can try to screw the nut that connects the tank to the pipe until it stops. But if the leak continues, then you need to turn off the water and pull the gasket out from under the tank with careful movements. When it appears completely, you need to remove it by making several windings with fluoroplastic sealing material (fum).
If the lever that drains the water does not work, then you need to replace its components, usually they universal sizes, and this procedure will not be particularly difficult.
If the water does not drain at all, then you need to adjust the angle of the lever on which the float is attached. This is done with a plastic screw.
If the drain occurs unevenly, then in large, then in small portions, this indicates that the fastening of the lever has become more loose. It is necessary to tighten the bolt and in this position adjust the lever to the required level
If too much water is poured, then the float is broken. Perhaps it is a little skewed or its mechanism does not work. Need to either fix the spoke
If, on the contrary, the drain has become weak, and water drains in small quantities, then most likely the pipe connecting the tank and the bowl is clogged. It needs to be cleaned up.
If inside the tank is formed limescale, then you need to drain all the water, block access to fresh water and wipe off the plaque with citric acid then rinse it off with water.
If there is a sewer smell in the apartment, this indicates that due to a strong pressure drop in sewer the water level in the knee (flush) has dropped sharply - this can be seen with the naked eye. It is possible that the drain connection to the sewer was not properly installed, in which case it needs to be redone, otherwise the smell will continue to do so. Another option is that the drain is dirty, it needs to be cleaned with a plunger or a plumbing cable.

How to save water for draining

Properly selected and installed fittings provide not only high-quality drainage, but also help save water.

You can experiment with savings if you notice that the drain is too strong and water is wasted. To do this, there is one simple option - to reduce the volume of water supplied to the tank after draining.

Pour in plastic bottle with a volume of 1.5-2 liters, fill it with up to half the volume of sand or small stones for gravity, and then add water.
Carefully place this bottle to the side so that it does not catch on the moving mechanisms of the armature.
Close the toilet lid.

At first glance, the savings of 2 liters is small. But if you do even 7-8 plums per day, then you will save at least 300 liters of water per month, i.e. almost half a meter. Convert it to money and feel the difference.

Another method involves using water from the washbasin to flush the waste.

In this case, of course, re-equipment of the entire system is required. However, if we are talking about newly created communication, take a closer look at this idea. The fact is that the toilet spends up to 25% of the total water consumption, and such a measure can significantly save resources.

Another option is to purchase a water flush restrictor. More about it here.

With average consumption, the savings per year will be about 2500 rubles.

toilet care

And of course, do not forget that in order to maintain cleanliness and extend the life of the toilet bowl and cistern, you need to follow simple rules for caring for them:

It is important not only to choose the right plumbing, but also to carry out constant care for it. Then it will serve you for a very long time.

Such a familiar and reliable, at first glance, toilet bowl suddenly begins to function poorly and it becomes clear that its design is not so simple and requires constant care.

Regardless of the external solution, the basic components of all models are almost identical, so we will consider compact systems with a standardized structure.

Drain tank from several components:

stop valves;
drain hole;
overflow tube;
drain mechanism;
rubber valve cover.

Fittings for a tank with a lateral water supply

When choosing methods for proper installation, it is important to determine the type of water supply to the tank (side or bottom). In the first case, the container is provided with two holes. The liquid during draining is driven by the top button or side lever. The main requirement for shutoff valves- reliable blocking of the access of the water jet with standard filling, which is provided by the shut-off valve of the toilet flush tank, given that its membrane varieties are in higher demand than piston ones. The float regulates this process. Floating up with water, when the maximum filling is reached, it acts on the lever to which it is attached, and it closes the shut-off valve directly.

The bowl is picked up specific conditions. Basically, two of its modifications are offered, differing in oblique or direct orientation. sewer outlet. The ceramic tank is fixed with bolts directly to the horizontal shelf of the bowl, a rubber gasket is provided between them.

Drainage system or drain valve for the toilet cistern is represented by two basic elements:

release lever;
drain siphon, the main purpose of which is to hermetically close the hole after the completion of the process of draining water. Siphons are available in several models, the simplest of them resemble a rubber cylinder.

The sequence of operations for installing structural elements

The toilet is placed in the place allotted to it and joins sewer system. After that, the stage of installation of such a critical part as fittings for the toilet flush tank begins, which to a large extent ensures the flawless functioning of the equipment.

Tank drain valve

Install the drain mechanism in the container, tighten the plastic nut, ensuring tightness with a rubber gasket.
Equip the bolts with washers and gaskets from the kit, insert them evenly along the axis into the holes. On the reverse side, a washer is put on them, then a nut, which is neatly but tightly twisted.
For better sealing, a sealing rubber ring is put on the nut if it is made of plastic. If the ring has already been used, then the joints should be additionally coated with a sealing compound. For a new ring, these techniques will not have to be applied.

Attention! Minor casting defects found during visual inspection of parts and joints will also require the use of a sealant.

It remains to fix the tank. The algorithm will be identical to the sequence of operations in accordance with the recommendations on how to change the toilet bowl given by experts. A rubber gasket is attached to the shelf. For a more reliable fixation, it is advisable to look for self-adhesive samples.

The tank is placed, taking into account that the sharp tips of the cone-shaped gaskets with which the fixing bolts are equipped must be directed into the holes. This form has already proven its reliability, protecting against leaks. Bolts are inserted strictly along the axis into the holes. Screwing the nuts completes the installation.

Advice. You should not apply excessive force when tightening the nuts, so as not to overdo it and not destroy the ceramic decoration of the product.

Installation of fittings in the drain tank

The hose is connected to pipelines, focusing on systems cold water. Tightness is created using a washer-gasket. When putting on a flexible hose, you do not need to try to independently increase the degree of strength of the future connection and wind it on the thread auxiliary materials in the form of threads or ribbons. The main thing in this operation is to exclude the skew of the mounted mechanism. This will help to tighten the nuts evenly without stripping the threads and achieve full operational readiness of the drain mechanism.

Carefully replace the lid and screw on the drain button. Then the valves are opened, and the control filling of the tank and draining is carried out. The absence of protruding condensate on the connections indicates a quality installation.

Features of valve adjustment

After acquiring a ready-made kit, installing a toilet bowl and a cistern in place does not cause any particular problems, but sometimes situations arise that require the use of valve adjustment techniques.

The mechanism for draining water in the tank

Height setting, optimal for effective work drain valve:

the draft is released from the overflow pipe;
the cup holder is carefully pressed;
before desired height the column moves in the vertical direction.

Water level regulation:

moves along the guide glass in the desired direction and is fixed in such a way that from it upper surface to the edge of the tank at the top remained at least 45 mm.
the position of the overflow pipe is checked and, if necessary, it is installed 2.0 cm above the water plane at the maximum filling of the tank and 7.0 cm below the upper surface of the rack.

Flush intensity setting involves moving a float or damper. To reduce water consumption, the fittings of the toilet tank are subjected to simple manipulations. You can slightly bend the lever if it is brass. The degree of curvature is tracked by the position of the float. Modern plastic varieties locking elements are adjusted with a fixing ratchet or a fixing screw.

The tank is leaking: measures to eliminate this problem

The appearance of a continuous monotonous murmur that irritates the ear with visual detection of water flowing through the overflow indicates that urgent measures must be taken similar to the reduced flush settings. If these actions did not help, then the cause of the malfunction is the wear of the pear.

You can try to tie nuts, a cast-iron sleeve, to give extra weight, contributing to a snug fit of the pear to the hole being closed. The most reliable in this situation will be its replacement. The purchase of a new pear should be taken seriously, as there are different forms and dimensions of this product. For greater certainty, it is advisable to take the old part with you to the market or to a specialized salon for comparison.

Having found smudges, it makes sense to calmly establish the state of the toilet cistern fittings, since sometimes it is enough to remove the lid and fix a warped shut-off valve or float. Condensation under the tank becomes a signal to replace the large gasket installed between it and the toilet shelf. The nuts are unscrewed, the tank is removed, cleaned wire brush traces of rust on all surfaces. A new gasket is fixed on the plane wiped dry and the whole structure is assembled.

Weak drain: elimination methods

If a detailed examination of all structural components reveals that the level of water entering the tank corresponds to all regulatory standards, but the toilet drain is extremely weak, the cistern outlet and toilet bowl drain should be checked for clogging. It is possible that the hose has slipped and obstructed the water at the level of the bowl. Often, foreign objects are found under the pear, which can be obtained simply by hand or with tweezers. If the cause of the blockage has fallen deeper, then sometimes you have to remove the tank to clean all the holes.

Dominant tank valve failures and ways to correct or prevent them

The installed fittings in the toilet bowl are subject to a number of fairly common malfunctions, for the correction of which specialists have developed specific recommendations.

In the event of a float failure, the only way out is to replace the entire assembly, which also includes a lever. Samples are available for sale various lengths shoulder, so you need to know exactly the features of your model, and it’s even easier to take the removed reinforcing tandem with you for comparison.
Sometimes there is a deformation of the reinforcement, for the manufacture of which plastic was used. One reason is excessive pressure during flushing. The second, less common impetus for the loss of elasticity and strength of plastic is the actions of some home craftsmen to make improvements to the device. Trying to level the fogging of the outer plane of the tank, they connect the system to hot water. Such an impact becomes an unfavorable factor for plastic, parts of which become unusable.
It is a mistake to install imported structures in cistern. The membranes of such devices are oriented to sufficiently high level water quality. Their operation in other conditions significantly reduces normative term services.
Cheap parts sold in the markets or in handicraft workshops, as a rule, do not have the quality indicators required by technical regulations and quickly become unusable.

If the toilet cistern is to be replaced, then a fully equipped container is purchased and all that remains is to fix it. But if there are problems with one of the parts or assemblies, you have to look for it yourself worthy replacement. It is advisable to contact the professionals of large stores specializing in the sale of plumbing.