Caring for ornamental plants at home. Caring for indoor plants. Shelter from the wind

In this article you will find some tips for caring for ornamental plants. Regardless of the time of year and whether you are at home or far beyond your locality, ornamental plants grown in the yard will always be in excellent shape if you remember a few secrets of caring for them.

Most ornamental plants grown outside tolerate frost fairly easily in winter. However, if heavy snowfall is predicted when you leave, another threat looms over the plants. They may die not from the cold, but from the weight of the snow mass. To prevent this, place them under a shed or in the garage.

Plant safety

It is better to remove hanging baskets with plants and place them on stable ones. clay pots in a place sheltered from the wind. In order for the plants to safely wait for your return, they should be placed in a bright, cool place. Move large garden pots a hand truck will help you. To make it easier to move heavy tubs or barrels, place pieces of tiles or thick round sticks under their bottoms.

Compost drying out

Before returning plants to their original locations, check the condition of their compost. If it has dried out so much that it has pulled away from the walls of the container, carefully compact it with your fingers and only then water it.

Lack of moisture

The main problem in spring and early summer for plants is lack of water. At this time of year, when the air temperature rises significantly, there is a period active growth most of them.

Moreover, plants in pots and hanging baskets suffer from the drying effects of wind. There may be several ways out of this situation. Some of them can be used in combination.

Soil amendments

One of the simplest solutions to the problem is to add; special substances are added to the soil to store moisture. The most suitable in this case is vermiculite - a volcanic silicate of aluminum, iron or magnesium.

Natural and reliable

Peat is perfect for storing moisture in garden containers. It remains an ideal soil restorer and basic

component of many commercially available composts. Relatively recently, a new product has appeared on the market, made from dust and fibers that remain after the production of coconut products.

It is capable of retaining a significantly larger volume of water. Lining hanging baskets with polyethylene also helps reduce the likelihood of plants drying out by the wind. Just be sure to cut enough drainage holes in the polyethylene. Otherwise, the compost may rot from excess moisture.

Shelter from the wind

Large containers and baskets should be placed in a cool, shady area away from strong wind. If this is not possible, you need to place the pots with plants on water-retaining material and cover them with polyethylene. Clay pots are best suited for these purposes. Plants in terracotta pots can even be completely buried in the ground, where they can absorb moisture directly through their porous walls. Don't forget to place the plants in a place sheltered from the wind: for example, under a tree or against the wall of a house.

Feeding and watering

Place on the bottom garden pots or hanging baskets a thick layer of humus. This will not only allow the plants to retain moisture, but also provide them with nutrients.

Abundant watering

Before leaving, you should water the plants generously from above or below (depending on their type). Some of them can be completely submerged in water.

Exotic and widespread, demanding and unpretentious, decorative leafy and flowering - whatever your plants are, they need care, care and love. Universal rules There is no care that is applicable in any conditions and to all house flowers without exception. Each of them is unique, with its own character, needs and desires, which you must learn to recognize and fulfill in time. Proper care and maintenance of home flowers includes their timely watering, fertilizing, replanting, pruning, creating the required conditions for growth and development, reliable protection from pests, as well as (if necessary) correct treatment. Only by feeling love and comprehensive care will plants grow and bloom, fill your home with freshness and aesthetic beauty, allowing you to create a real green oasis in urban environments.

Comprehensive care for flowering indoor plants: trust the professionals!

How much care do indoor flowers need? Caring for potted plants in a work environment is not as easy as it may seem. In addition to regular watering, indoor (office) plants need a whole range of measures that ensure their proper growth and harmonious development. We fulfill large number plant maintenance activities:

Planting and replanting ornamental and indoor plants, taking into account the season, age and its characteristics;
Spraying and watering flowers;
Pruning damaged branches, removing faded flowers and yellowed leaves after the end of the flowering period;
Feeding roots and leaves, fertilizing the soil;
Crown formation;
Removing salts from the soil surface and aerating it;
Polishing leaves, cleaning them from dust;
Cleaning and tidying up pots and pots;
Soil replacement and restoration;
Regular preventive examinations to identify diseased plants;
Treatment of flowers using our own special medicinal products;
Consultations on placement, maintenance, purchase and care of plants of any kind.

Caring for house plants in winter

Winter care for indoor flowers requires special knowledge and preparation, because this is the time that is considered critical in the life of “green pets”. With the onset of cold weather and reduction daylight hours Many decorative flowers enter a dormant period when they are most vulnerable to drafts, cold, wind and dry air. At this time of year, when there is little light and the balance of temperature and humidity is disturbed, you need to care for plants especially carefully. Transplanting and planting, caring for indoor flowers, watering, fertilizing - all this must be carried out under certain conditions, in strict accordance with the “wants” and needs of the plant and requires certain knowledge, experience and skills. Amateur gardeners are not always able to take into account all the nuances and provide each flower with the proper comfort that will allow it to endure this difficult period for it. By contacting the gardeners of our company, you can be sure that you are giving your green “pets” to reliable hands. We will be happy to come to any site: be it a park, winter garden, private house, apartment or office, to take care of the comfort, safety and well-being of your plants. Have no doubt, our gardeners will find the “key to the heart” of even the most exotic and fastidious flower. We don't just do our job, we truly love what we do. For the summer period, a flowerpot with self-watering Lechuza is perfect

We offer three options for plant care services:

One-time plant care services	Comprehensive plant services	Plant consulting services
Consultation on plant care Plant transplantation, selection the right pot Pest treatment Recommendations for proper watering and fertilizing List of care products for plants and indoor flowers	On-site visits weekly A set of measures for caring for house plants (watering, fertilizing, arranging) Prevention and treatment of pests and diseases Trimming, dusting, polishing and spraying leaves We guarantee the excellent appearance of your plants and replace plants in case of death due to our fault	On-site visit once a month A set of plant care measures together with your specialist Development of a monthly plant care program Employee support over the phone Control visit of a specialist in indoor flowers in 2 weeks We guarantee the fresh appearance and health of your plants by strictly following all the recommendations of our specialist.
departure upon request	4–8 times a month	1–2 times a month
consultation: 40 BYN care work: from 40 BYN	from 400 BYN per month	from 100 BYN per month

Cost of services for transplantation (transshipment) and treatment of plants

Name of work	Unit change	Cost BYN
*Cost of services for planting and replanting indoor plants and flowers: (including the cost of material)*
First visit of a specialist to the site, inspection, consultation	<>
Replanting - planting a plant with a diameter of up to 20 cm.	pcs.
Transplantation - planting a plant with a diameter of 21 to 28 cm.	pcs.
Transplantation - planting a plant from 29 to 35 cm.	pcs.
Transplantation - planting a plant from 35	pcs.
*Cost of services for treating indoor plants and flowers: (including the cost of material)*
The first visit of a specialist to the site, inspection, analysis of the condition of the plant	<>
Plant treatment, pest control, plant nutrition.	pcs.
Transport and overhead costs	<>	5% of the estimated cost

TECHNOLOGY FOR CARE OF FLOWER AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS

You can plant the most beautiful flowers in your flower garden, but without regular proper care it will not please the eye.

How to care for a flower garden?

Watering. After planting, the plants are watered deeply and continue to be watered every other day for the first week. Then watering is reduced to once a week, or even less often. The frequency of watering is determined by the species’ need for moisture, weather conditions and agrotechnical practices. IN different periods Plants need different amounts of water to grow. During the period of rapid growth, budding, flowering, fruiting and growth vegetative organs renewal requires more moisture.

Vegetative (Latin vegetativus - plant) organs of renewal are renewal buds located on rhizomes, corms, bulbs or other overwintering plant organs, from which new shoots appear in the spring.

The optimal time for watering is evening. When watering, wash off the dust that has settled on them from the leaves. Flower beds need to be watered abundantly - 20-30 l/m2. Insufficient watering, when moisture does not wet the root layer, does more harm than good, and watering during the hot part of the day leads to the formation of a crust on the soil surface. In addition, in hot weather, plants close their stomata in order to evaporate less moisture, and when watered, the stomata open and increased transpiration begins. With shallow watering, the soil dries out quickly, evaporation due to watering is increased, and the plants wither even more.

Transpiration (from Latin trans - through and spiro - breathing, breathing, exhaling) is the process of water movement through a plant and its evaporation through the external organs of the plant: leaves, stems and flowers.

After watering, it is useful to scatter the natural soil enricher Mulch-Lowering Mother Earth in a layer of 1-2 cm. Mulch acts comprehensively: it improves the soil structure, protects against overcompaction, weed germination, crust formation after watering and helps retain moisture. For 1 m2 you will need 5-10 kg, mulch 2-3 times per season.

Loosening the soil. The soil becomes compacted from watering, so they weed and loosen to a depth of 5-6 cm 3-5 times during the summer. Loosening creates a favorable water-air regime in the soil, which promotes the growth of the root system and the development of renewal organs, and, consequently, the development of a lush bush with many flowering shoots. Loosening is called “dry watering” because the loosened top layer prevents moisture evaporation. They are loosened after rain or watering, as well as for incorporation of fertilizers. Areas with annual flowering plants are loosened until the bushes close.

Formation. Trimming is necessary for carpet plants and most border plants. Borders and edges of flower beds should be smooth. The haircut is done with large garden shears once every ten days.

When cutting kochia (photo), cosmos (photo), perilla, cineraria (photo) and some other plants, beautiful, even borders are obtained. It is especially important to keep smooth edges in arabesques (photo). Ageratum (photo), snapdragon (photo) and other types of flowers often grow separate shoots that violate the strictness of the flowerbed. These shoots are also pruned.

Alyssum and some other plants that bloom profusely with small flowers quickly fade. To prolong flowering, plants should be cut at the beginning of flowering, and they will quickly form new buds. To prolong the flowering of other species, fading flowers are cut off, preventing the formation of seeds.

If individual specimens die, or when specimens of a different color are mistakenly planted among flowers of one color, the seedlings are replanted. The survival rate of seedlings is not 100%, therefore experienced gardeners keep seedlings in reserve for replanting (15%).

Weeding and feeding summer flora. Weeding is always required, but it is especially necessary before the plants close together in the rows. It is recommended to water the flower beds before weeding.

During the period of intensive growth, the summer plants are fed with the soft fertilizer NITROGEN UREA - Gumi-OMI (50 g/m2), during budding and flowering they apply the complete fertilizer UNIVERSAL Garden Flowers - Gumi-OMI (100 g/m2).

To combat diseases and increase the number of buds during the flowering period, spray with Fitosporin-M 1-2 times.

Autumn work in the flowerbed

Autumn cleaning of flower beds begins after the first frost. The flyers are uprooted and stored in compost heaps and watered with compostin - an accelerator for compost maturation. The flower beds are replanted, leveled with a rake, and the edges of the lawns are trimmed.

Queen plants and other greenhouse flowers are put away in greenhouses or rooms; dahlia tubers, canna rhizomes, and gladioli corms are taken to cellars.

What are queen cells?

Many flowers grown as annuals are classified as biological perennials and, given the right conditions, grow and bloom for 5-10 years or more. In large flower farms, flower species with small seeds and a long growing season are stored in pots and boxes as mother plants, and cuttings are taken in February.

Biological perennials include petunias and its relatives: surfinia and calibrachoa; arctotis, alternanthera, evergreen begonia, verbena, gatsania, heliotrope, hybrid balsam, pelargonium, coleus, fuchsia, snapdragon, cineraria maritana, Chabot carnation, kufeya, catharanthus, diascia, scaevola, and others.

In September - early October, the mother flower you like is cut at a height of 3-5 cm above the soil, transplanted with a lump of earth into a pot and placed in a cool, bright place. For planting, Mother Earth FLOWER-UNIVERSAL is best suited.

Immediately after transplantation, to restore the root system, water with KorneSil solution, which stimulates root formation, improves survival rate and promotes intensive development of the root system. To do this, dissolve two caps of the drug in a liter of water and water the mother plant with the resulting solution.

KorneSil Gumi-20 (liquid for root formation of cuttings, seedlings, seedlings, bulbs) should be in the arsenal of every gardener. This is a natural universal humus elixir of fertility, a growth vitamin, a powerful natural mild anti-stress preparation that is suitable for all types of crops and is indispensable for rooting, soaking seeds and bulbs.

The ideal temperature for queen cells is about 10 °C. But it is impossible to create such conditions in an apartment. Therefore, they use illumination with a 3-harvest LAMP PHYTOSPECTRUM OJZ + SUN VITAMINS or a 5-harvest Phyto-Lamp. With additional lighting and feeding the plants with Gumi-20 fertilizer for flowers and indoor plants (1 drop per 100 g of water), they will bloom almost all winter.

In January, to obtain side shoots, the buds are removed from the queen cells and the tops of the shoots are cut off. To obtain a lush bush and rapid growth, every two weeks they are fed with organomineral fertilizer UNIVERSAL Garden Flowers - Gumi-OMI, diluting 10 g of powder in 1 liter of water.

From mid-February to early May, shoots are cut for rooting. To improve root formation during cuttings, use the CorneSil solution: two caps of the drug are dissolved in a liter of water and the cuttings are kept in the solution for 10-12 hours.

To prevent fungal diseases, water seedlings, VEGETABLES, BERRIES, FRUIT with Fitosporin-M monthly (10 drops per glass of water).

Rooted cuttings are pinched after the 3-4th leaf, and in early June they are planted in pots or in open ground. After a week, pinch again for better tillering.

The plants bloom all summer, and in the fall you can again select the most beautiful bushes and use them as mother plants.

This section contains tips on caring for decorative foliage plants. These are perennial herbaceous indoor plants with beautiful exotic leaves, which with their shape, color and size will decorate any interior no worse than a flowering specimen. This also includes flowering species with luxurious leaves, the flowers of which are not attractive, and they are usually cut off so as not to spoil the appearance and decorativeness of the plant. An ornamental foliage plant usually looks elegant all year round - it does not have a clearly defined dormant period, like all flowering plants. But the fact that the plant is not flowering does not mean that you can care for it less. Some types of decorative foliage indoor flowers They are very capricious in care, so we recommend that you read the articles on proper care at home presented in the section.

Sep 26 2019

It doesn't have to be experienced florist to keep a plant such as arrowroot at home. She is friendly and unpretentious. But in order to ensure that it does not lose its color, does not get sick and does not lose its leaves, it is necessary to remember and follow some rules for caring for arrowroot at home. There are not many of them, and they are all quite simple. We have collected all the information...

Sep 17 2019

Today we will introduce you to the types and varieties exotic plant- arrowroots. The plant came to us from the tropical forests of South and Central America. Arrowroot is valued for its incredibly beautiful patterns on the leaves, which are very different for each variety. Thanks to this, any gardener will be able to choose a variety to suit his own taste. Description Maranta is an ornamental herbaceous perennial from ...

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Sep 02 2019

Nertera is an exotic tropical plant that appeared in our area and became popular among gardeners quite recently. Distinctive feature of this plant are berries, with which the green bush is strewn, like a Christmas tree with decorations on New Year. They can be white, yellow, orange and red, depending on the variety. In this article we will introduce you to all...

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Jul 29 2019

Despite the fact that the main character of our article is a tropical plant, caring for aglaonema at home is not very difficult. It is enough to follow a few rules regarding lighting, watering and temperature, and your flower will delight you and your guests for many years. Next, we will analyze each rule separately and touch on all the nuances. Also, in this…

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Jul 12 2019

Aglaonema came to us from southeast Asia, where it grows in the tropical forests of India, China, Vietnam, Thailand, Singapore and the Philippines along river banks. Despite this, the plant feels great in our apartments, gradually gaining popularity among gardeners. Aglaonema is valued for its incredibly beautiful foliage. The color and shape of the leaves varies greatly depending on the species and...

INTRODUCTION

care ornamental plant

For recent years gardening and park construction has become not only in demand, but also extremely fashionable for the improvement of populated areas.

Goals course work- consolidation and deepening of theoretical and practical knowledge obtained during lectures and practical classes, course design using the example of real practical work of an enterprise.

The objectives of the course work were:

1. Study organizational structure on the basis of the landscaping department of SSAU, features of functional structures;

2. Participation in carrying out maintenance work for plantings and plantings (watering, planting, weeding, fertilizing, pruning, mowing lawns, etc.);

3. Collection, processing, analysis and systematization of scientific and technical information on the topic “Natural decorative properties woody plants";

4. Study of specialized literature and other scientific and technical information, achievements of domestic and foreign science and technology in the field of landscape construction.

1. LITERATURE REVIEW

A research and study of special literature and other scientific and technical information was carried out, an analysis of the achievements of domestic and foreign science and technology in the field of landscape construction was carried out.

IN modern conditions The task of green construction is no longer just to plant trees, shrubs and other plants, but to create and form highly decorative and highly environmentally effective, resistant to unfavorable growing conditions, long-term cultural plant communities (Aksyanova, 2003).

Terms external environment have a huge impact on the development of plant organisms. Appearance, the size and durability of plants depend on the influence of the external environment. Various plant organisms, under the influence of long-term environmental factors, have developed appropriate forms and biological properties that allow them to exist in certain conditions (Kolesnikov, 1974).

Woody plants on different landscaping sites are in different environmental conditions. Care woody plants is carried out in two directions. The first is caring for the root systems of plants - watering, fertilizing, loosening, applying fertile soil with replacement of the surface layer. The second is caring for the above-ground part of the plant - the trunk and crown by applying in various ways trimmings (Teodoronsky, 2003).

When caring for root systems, one should take into account the morphological features of the structure of the roots and the nature of their occurrence and distribution. To ensure the life of a tree, it is necessary, first of all, to provide irrigation and aeration throughout the root layer of the soil (Teodoronsky, 2003).

The character of a garden landscape depends primarily on the physiognomic appearance of the plants that make up its plant groups. The predominance of certain plant forms in plant groups leaves an imprint on the entire appearance of the landscape (Bondar, 1977).

Plant groups are a combination of lawn, woody and flowering plants. In the assortment of woody plants, a large place is given to shrubs. They are valuable primarily because they can quickly decorate an area and immediately give the plantings the necessary volume. In addition, the widespread use of shrubs in landscaping makes it possible to reduce the number of tree seedlings, the cultivation of which is quite labor-intensive and much more expensive (Chakhovsky, 1988).

The shape of the crown is one of the important decorative characteristics of tree species. Along with the irregular, spreading shape of the crown, a number of tree species have natural, clear geometric shapes that represent great value when creating strict “regular” compositions in gardens, as well as in plantings in front of buildings and structures. The shape of a plant, perceived volumetrically, as a spatial geometric body, is formed by the system of constructing its above-ground parts. The branching system of the stem is of decisive importance - in shrubs branching begins from the ground itself, in trees a trunk is formed that branches only at a certain height. The branching system mainly determines the shape of the crown (Grozdova, 2000).

2. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ENTERPRISE

2.1 Name of the enterprise, characteristics of its location

Stavropol State Agrarian University is located at per. Zootechnical 12. It is located in the Leninsky district of the city of Stavropol and occupies a significant territory. At the university they not only gain knowledge, but also create new ideas and directions, make discoveries, and discuss scientific theories. More than 18 thousand students study there. The university structure includes 9 faculties, 51 departments, 90 innovation laboratories and centers, as well as a landscaping department. The improvement and landscaping of the university is an integral part of the landscaping department. In 1999, a landscaping department appeared. It consisted of only 2 people, today the department has 5 people. The landscaping department is engaged in mowing lawns of trees and shrubs, laying out flower beds and caring for them, and planting flower crops. Work with gardening tools. Over the entire period of the department’s work, many flower beds were planned. Today, all the flower beds of the university are made in a regular style. To maintain cleanliness and order, a detachment of students “Greener” was created, consisting of 2 - 4 years of the Faculty of Plant Protection, specializing in gardening and landscape construction. The guys are engaged in maintenance work, planting plants, and creating projects to improve the university grounds. During summer practical training, students can bring their projects to life (http://www.sworld.com.ua).

2.2 Characteristics of natural climatic conditions territories

The Stavropol Territory is located in the center of the Stavropol Upland, in the east - the Terek-Kuma Lowland, in the north - the Kuma-Manych depression. The relief is a relatively flat plateau of the Stavropol Upland. Height above sea level - 644 m.

The climate is temperate continental. Characteristic feature climate is hot summer and moderate cold winter. The average temperature in January is -5 °C, in July from +22 °C to +25 °C. The duration of the warm period in most of the territory is 7 months. Precipitation is 300-650 mm per year. The growing season is 207-220 days.

The Stavropol Territory is located within the feather grass-fescue steppes with forbs and forest-steppes of the Stavropol Upland and foothills. In the east and northeast there are cereal-wormwood and hodgepodge complex semi-desert formations.

Vegetation - from broad-leaved (oak, beech) and coniferous forests(spruce, pine) to alpine meadows. In the high areas of the Stavropol Upland there are tracts of broad-leaved oak-hornbeam forests (forest-steppe areas) (Savelyeva, 2002).

3. DESCRIPTION OF WORK ORGANIZATION DURING PRACTICE

During the practical tasks, the following were completed: the following types works:

Carrying out maintenance work for the above-ground parts of plants: weeding, loosening and watering;

Weeding of trees and shrubs;

Carrying out specific weeding of the lawn;

Planting flower crops;

Caring for plants in the main building of the building;

Watering decorative and flower crops;

Conducting an analysis of the natural decorative properties of woody plants;

Conducting an analysis of domestic and foreign literature.

3.1 Natural decorative properties of woody plants

The most important decorative qualities of woody plants for an architectural composition are their size and crown shape.

The size of a woody plant is a volumetric indicator. It depends on the development of the crown and trunk in height and width. At the same time, for the use of wood species in architectural composition, height indicators are of paramount importance. The indicators of crown development in width are also significant, which in combination with height determine the shape of the crown (Kolesnikov, 1974).

The shape of the crown is one of the important decorative characteristics of tree species. Along with the irregular, spreading shape of the crown, a number of tree species have natural, clear geometric shapes, which are of great value when creating strict “regular” compositions in gardens, as well as in plantings in front of buildings and structures. The shape of a plant, perceived volumetrically, as a spatial geometric body, is formed by the system of constructing its above-ground parts. The branching system of the stem is of decisive importance - in shrubs branching begins from the ground itself, in trees a trunk is formed that branches only at a certain height. The branching system mainly determines the shape of the crown (Grozdova, 2000).

Leaves are an additional element that has a significant impact on the shape of the crown (Fig. 1). In many deciduous deciduous species in winter, the crown loses the shape characteristic of it in the leafy state and is perceived only as a branching system. In evergreen deciduous and coniferous species the shape of the crown does not undergo seasonal changes, it is more or less stable and is perceived as a complex of the branching system and leaf cover of the tree.

Figure 1 - Type of compound leaves (Sapelin, 2008).

Flowers and fruits, without generally changing the shape of the crown, introduce short-term seasonal changes in the texture of the surface of the crown and its color and therefore are sometimes an important decorative detail (Sapelin, 2008).

The crowns of tree species are formed in two main directions:

a) vertically

b) in horizontal

Vertical development of the crown can be:

a) straight, or ascending - when the branches of the crown are more or less different sharp corners towards the axis of the trunk, mainly directed upward;

b) reverse, or downward - when the branches of the crown are lowered down in an arched manner or at different angles of deflection exceeding 90.

With direct vertical branching, forming a pyramidal crown, the length of the lateral branches and the angle of their deviation from the trunk usually decrease from the base of the crown to its top. When the branches of the crown are lowered downwards, so-called “weeping” forms are formed. A cylindrical crown is formed by more or less equal lengths of lateral branches along the entire height of the trunk.

Horizontal crown development can result in the development of one of three crown varieties:

a) the crown develops equally in both vertical and horizontal directions; in this case, a spherical crown is formed;

b) the crown develops much weaker in the horizontal direction than in the vertical direction, with the lateral branches reaching their greatest length in the middle part of the crown, gradually shortening towards the top and base of the crown; in this case, an elliptical (oval) crown is formed. Ovate crowns, which are varieties of elliptical, have a wide rounded base and a narrower rounded top (there are ovoid and obovate crowns).

c) the crown develops more strongly in the horizontal direction than in the vertical; then an umbrella crown is formed.

In some tree species, with significant development of the crown in the transverse direction, the tree trunk does not remain straight throughout the entire height of the crown, but at a height of several meters from the ground it branches alternately in one direction or the other. In this case, the crown takes on a complex, spreading shape, lacking an axis of symmetry. Such a crown is usually called spreading, or irregular (Aksenov, 2001) (Fig. 2).

Fig. 2 - Shapes of crowns of tree species (Aksenov, 2001).

An important quality of the crown of woody plants for park compositions is its mass. The crown can be massive (dense) or light, through (openwork) (Fig. 3).

Fig. 3 - Crown density (Skakova, 2008).

The degree of openwork of the crown of woody plants has great architectural, sanitary and hygienic significance. Tree species with a dense crown allow you to clearly limit a certain space and create a good background for architectural structures or sculptures. In addition, such tree species provide better protection from dust and wind and create good shade.

Tree species with a loose, through crown that does not prevent penetration sun rays, increase the play of light and shadows in plantings and with their openwork crowns do not cover architectural structures, but perfectly complement them (Skakova, 2008).

The density of the crown, as well as its shape, is determined primarily by the branching system. The branches of the crown, ending in the peripheral part with a system of large, few-branched branches, form a loose, see-through crown; if the branches of the crown end in the peripheral part with a dense network of small branches, then the crown turns out to be dense and massive.

Thus, three types of crowns can be distinguished by density:

Massive, dense (gaps are no more than 25%);

Medium density (gaps range from 25 to 50%);

Light, through (the gaps are 50% or more).

Dense crowns, in turn, can be divided into two groups:

a) dense solid - compact, in which the entire crown forms a fused whole;

b) dense, separate - compact, consisting, as it were, of several separate dense masses of branches and leaves, sometimes arranged in tiers (Kozlova, 2008).

On visual perception The mass of the crown and its density are significantly influenced by the size, shape, color and nature of the arrangement of leaves, as well as the nature of branching.

Large leaves also do not always enhance the impression of crown density: if they are placed on densely branched branches of the crown, then the crown is perceived as more massive, but if large leaves are located on sparsely branched branches, then large leaves do not eliminate the impression of looseness of the crown.

Simple leaves in most cases create greater filling, and therefore greater crown density; Complex leaves most often give the crown lightness and delicacy. However simple leaves with a very narrow leaf blade, as well as the dissected leaf form of tree species form light, loose-looking crowns, even with fine branching of its peripheral branches.

The nature of the arrangement of leaves also affects the perception of crown density (Plotnikova, 1990).

The color of the leaves also greatly influences the perception of the mass of the crown: a dark-colored crown gives the impression of being heavier (dense), while a light-colored crown gives the impression of being lighter. Based on all these characteristics together, the main tree species can be divided into the following groups based on crown density.

Dense, compact crowns have: deciduous - beech, elm, hornbeam, horse chestnut, Norway maple, small-leaved linden, black alder, plane tree, black poplar; evergreens - holm oak, magnolia grandiflora.

The crowns are dense, separate and compact: deciduous - oak, Canadian poplar, poplar white mulberry white; evergreen - false camphor laurel; conifers - spruce, Siberian fir, European pine.

Crowns of medium density (semi-open) have: white willow, birch, Babylonian willow, honeysuckle, silver maple, walnut, Scots pine.

Crowns are porous light structure(openwork) have: white acacia (Robinia), honey locust, larch, angustifolia, mountain ash, common ash (Sokolova, 2004).

The nature of the crown surface (its texture) also affects the visual perception of the crown mass and should be taken into account when using the decorative qualities of the crown shape in park compositions. It is especially important to take into account texture when selecting single specimens (solitaires) and when organizing foregrounds of group compositions. The texture of the crown depends on the size and shape of the leaves and the nature of their arrangement on the branches of the crown.

The following types of textures of the crowns of trees and shrubs are distinguished:

a) large, loose;

b) large, dense;

c) small, loose;

d) small, dense.

The crowns of trees and shrubs have a large, loose texture with more or less large leaves, loosely adjacent to each other (sycamore, oak, elm, mulberry, viburnum).

Trees and shrubs have a large, dense texture; their leaves, although large, are densely spaced, filling all the gaps in the crown (horse chestnut, Norway maple, hornbeam, large-leaved linden).

Wood species with small, loosely located simple or compound leaves(willow, angustifolia, honey locust, rowan, ash, larch).

Tree species with small dense texture of the crown have small leaves that fit tightly to each other and fill all the gaps (Tatar maple, Tatarian honeysuckle, holm oak, boxwood, yew berry, evergreen cypress, thuja occidentalis) (Kholyavko, 2002).

3.2 Planting flower plants

Flower plants are very demanding soil fertility, therefore, areas allocated for flower beds are carefully prepared. Loamy and sandy loam, not heavily podzolized soils are considered the best. They are characterized by a good structure and contain a sufficient amount nutrients.

The reaction of the soil environment plays an important role in plant life. Or its acidity, referred to as pH. There are acidic soils (pH 4.4 - 5.5), slightly acidic (pH 5.6 - 6.5), neutral (pH 6.6 - 7.2), alkaline (pH more than 7.2). Most flower plants grow well in soils with a slightly acidic or neutral reaction environment (Vakulenko, 2007).

To prepare the soil, dig a pit 40 - 60 cm deep, then add organic fertilizers such as peat, humus, composts, manure, bird droppings. The soil level in the pit should be 5 - 10 cm higher than the surrounding lawn or paving, so that after it settles, the level of the flower bed is at the same level as the surrounding surface.

The prepared soil is analyzed for the content of macroelements (N, P, K, Ca, Mg) and, if any of them is missing, it is added before planting (Truevtseva, 2008)

When the soil is prepared and sufficiently settled, the contours of the plantings of individual types of perennials and planting locations are outlined in the flower garden. Straight-line landings lead along the cord in a checkerboard pattern. Large homogeneous groups on the lawn are also planted in staggered rows, directed parallel to the edges of the plot or the contour of the group. Plants are planted from the center of the group or ridge to the edges. Border plants are planted last (Fig. 4, 5).

Fig. 4,5 - Planting begonias in a flowerbed with ducklings (original).

Planting material must be healthy, well developed, with a rich root system. When dividing plants, planting material of different sizes is obtained. Larger plants are planted along the periphery, and smaller ones are planted inside the group.

When determining the distance between plants, you need to take into account the nature of their growth. Plants should not be planted too densely. Tall plants with a wide bush should be planted at a distance of 60-60 cm from each other. Medium-sized plants should be planted at a distance of 40-50 cm, and low plants with creeping bushes are planted at a distance of 35-40 cm from each other (Burova, 2009).

The planting depth of perennials is determined by the biological characteristics of the crop. So, perennials with horizontal rhizomes should not be buried too deep into the soil. Most perennials are planted so that the renewal buds are at a depth of 5-6 cm. Perennials are planted in flower beds in spring or autumn. Spring-flowering species (low iris, spring primrose, fragrant and horned violet), as well as all spring-flowering bulbous and bulbous plants must be planted in late summer and autumn (August 20-September 15, and in the south 15-30 days later).

Other perennials, not blooming in spring, planted in late summer, autumn and even spring. Plants planted in spring take root better. Plants are planted in a hole, less often in furrows, without deepening the tops of rosette plants. The earth is pressed tightly against the roots. Watering plants after planting is mandatory, regardless of whether the soil is damp or not.

After planting and watering, the area is leveled and mulched with peat or sawdust. This not only retains moisture, but also protects the soil from compaction during frequent watering (Vakulenko, 2001).

Watering is a necessary condition for the successful growth of flower plants (Fig. 5). The main natural source of replenishing moisture in the soil is precipitation.

Fig. 5 - Watering flower beds (Truevtseva, 2003).

Different regions of our country are characterized by different annual rainfall. Excess moisture, as well as its lack, negatively affects the functioning of the root system and plant growth. In relation to moisture, all plants are divided into drought-resistant groups; moisture-loving.

Drought-resistant plants include: carnation, sedum, stachys woolly, timyan, etc.

Moisture-loving plants include many species: astilbe, clematis integrifolia, fragrant veola (violet), primrose, hosta and others (Truevtseva, 2003).

The moisture deficit in the soil is replenished by watering. Watering frequency is determined by need different cultures in moisture, weather conditions and agrotechnical growing methods. During different periods of plant growth, different amounts of moisture are needed. Thus, during the period of intensive growth, budding, the beginning of flowering and growth of renewal organs, more moisture is required. At regular watering During this period, plants develop more powerful bushes with a large number flowers and large multi-flowered inflorescences. For such plants, soil moisture during this period should be 70-80% of the total water capacity. Plants of the drought-resistant group during this period require soil moisture of 60-70%. Frequent watering, but in small doses it is ineffective, since mainly the top layer of soil is moistened, and the bulk of the roots, distributed at great depths, usually experience water starvation.

Autumn watering is necessary for the normal formation of next year's regeneration organs. In the fall, they usually give one or two abundant waterings so that the entire root layer is moistened.

Fertilizer application is an important technique in planting flower crops (Fig. 6).

Fig. 6 - Fertilizer application (Loskutov, 2007).

Nitrogen is necessary for the normal growth and development of flower plants. However, commercial nitrogen nutrition can cause fattening of plants and reduce the frost resistance of perennials.

To ensure that flower plants do not lack phosphorus, the full rate of phosphorus fertilizers is usually applied when preparing the soil. Despite this, phosphorus fertilizers must be given periodically in mid-summer, since the need for phosphorus during the period of budding and flowering increases. At the end of summer it is applied under perennials to increase the frost resistance of some species,

With a lack of potassium, brown spots appear along the periphery of the leaf. With a severe lack of potassium, the lower leaves on the shoots die. The need for potassium varies in different periods. So, at the beginning of growth, the plant needs less potassium than in the budding and flowering phase. Potassium is necessary for the plant during the formation and development of renewal organs in the fall.

With a lack of sulfur, plant growth stops, the leaves lighten, and often turn completely pale (Loskutov, 2007).

Weed control is the most important agricultural activity. Overgrown weeds shade flowering plants, remove large amounts of nutrients and water from the soil, and are often carriers of pests and diseases. Greatest harm bring perennial weeds: wheatgrass, honeybuck, spurge, bindweed, etc. It is very difficult to fight them in flower beds. Conventional weeding by hoeing does not bring significant success, since new plants quickly break up from the rhizomes remaining in the soil. In this regard, the main control of perennial weeds should be carried out before planting perennial flowering plants. In small areas, dispersing the soil through a screen gives good results. Used on large areas chemicals control - herbicides (before planting).

The most common annual weed is: cress. Quinoa, posthumous bag, agaric, woodlice. They are easy to destroy by hoeing or hand weeding. Manual weeding is most often used after flowering plants have closed. The number of weedings depends on the thoroughness of soil preparation and weather conditions (Kolesnikov, 2006).

Loosening the soil is one of the most important measures for caring for plants (Fig. 7).

Fig. 7 - Loosening flower crops in a flower bed (original).

Loosening creates and maintains a favorable water-air regime in the soil, which promotes the growth of a powerful root system and the normal development of renewal organs, and consequently, the development of abundantly flowering shoots. The loosened top layer prevents the rapid evaporation of moisture from the upper root layer, so loosening is carried out after heavy rain or watering. They also loosen the soil in order to incorporate the applied fertilizers.

The first loosening of perennials is carried out in early spring, immediately after the soil thaws. And then regularly until the bushes close.

Autumn loosening is usually carried out after trimming faded shoots. The depth of loosening is determined by the nature of the growth of underground organs (Aksenova, 2008).

3.3 Caring for the above-ground parts of plants

Caring for the above-ground parts of plants consists of a number of simple, but very important techniques that ensure the extension of the decorativeness of flower beds from annuals and perennials. Thus, in the summer, it is advisable to pinch some of the plants during the budding phase in order to enhance the growth of lateral shoots and prolong flowering for 3-4 weeks for This is done by pinching the main shoot or several shoots.

Faded flowers or inflorescences are removed in order to maintain the high decorativeness of flower beds and preserve plastic substances spent on the development of seeds and fruits (Fig. 8). The sooner the ovaries are removed, the sooner the side shoots will begin to grow and will ensure a second flowering in the fall.

Fig. 8 - Pruning faded inflorescences (Sapelin, 2008).

It is especially important to promptly prune large faded inflorescences, which greatly spoil the appearance of the site. Many plants easily set seeds and subsequently litter the area with a mass of unwanted seedlings. In this regard, in order to preserve the decorative effect of flower beds, the inflorescences are removed without waiting for them to completely fade - at the moment when they have already lost their decorative effect, although there are still 10-15% of the flowers left on them.

A number of plants soon after flowering turn yellow and die. When the shoots and leaves of these plants turn yellow, they are removed and burned.

Large plants, if not tied up, easily break or bend towards the ground from rain and wind. To preserve their decorative effect, it is recommended to tie them to stakes or a stretched wire trellis before flowering. It is best to tie it to wooden stakes painted green with oil paint. The stake should not be higher than the plant (Sapelin, 2008).

Repair of flower beds is carried out if necessary to replace dead ones or divide overgrown bushes. Typically, perennials, planted on carefully prepared soil and receiving good care, can grow in one place from 4 to 10-12 years. Some perennials are characterized by a shorter life cycle - 3-5 years. With age, in a number of perennials, the bushes grow greatly and form either a dense rhizome or a highly compacted bush, in the central part of which there is a mass of dead shoots that interfere with the retraction of plants into the soil and the normal development of renewal organs. Therefore, perennials must be periodically removed and divided or replaced with new ones.

The removed plants are carefully examined, the diseased ones are destroyed, and the heavily compacted ones are divided, while all old shoots and roots are cut out, sometimes roots that are too long are shortened, fresh cuts are sprinkled with crushed charcoal or coal mixed with sulfur (1:1).

After division, the plants are planted in soil enriched with organic matter or fresh soil (Vakulenko, 2009).

CONCLUSION

During the practical training on the basis of the landscaping department of St. State Agrarian University, the structure of the enterprise and its functional structures. Sources of specialized literature and other scientific and technical information of domestic and foreign science and technology in the field of landscape construction were analyzed, including the works of such authors as T.N. Dyakova, T.Yu. Konovalova, T.A. Sokolova, B.C. Teodoronsky, V.S. Kholyavko, A.A. Chakhovsky and others.

Towards the end of my practical training, I studied a complex of care work for the above-ground parts of plants. The natural decorative properties of woody plants were studied. Obtained practical skills in caring for flower plants.

The collection, processing and analysis of scientific and technical information on the topic “Natural decorative properties of woody plants” was carried out.

Flower crops were planted.

During my practical training at the landscaping department of SSAU, I acquired extensive theoretical and practical skills and abilities in the field of landscape construction, which can be applied in the future.

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