Diseases of indoor lemon sticky leaves. Sticky coating on lemon leaves Lemon leaves covered with sticky liquid

The tropical plant lemon has long been grown indoors. But this matter is quite complicated, since the plant needs to be provided with conditions as close as possible to the conditions of its homeland. We will help you avoid possible diseases and pests, and introduce you to the methods and methods of combating them.

Preventative measures for lemon disease and pest damage

The main measure to prevent lemon diseases is to create familiar conditions for growth and vital activity. Before you start planting indoor lemon, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for growing it and be prepared to follow them carefully. This capricious plant does not forgive even seemingly insignificant deviations from the rules and reacts to them with deterioration in health. So, let's list the basic important rules:

• Maintaining optimal heat and humidity conditions. The plant feels better in the temperature range of +15-22 °C, but if you give it a rest in the winter, the temperature should be reduced to +10-12 °C. Lemon also does not tolerate sudden temperature fluctuations. The plant reacts negatively to dry air - its humidity must be maintained at 75-85%. To monitor this parameter, it is better to get a hygrometer. Based on these conditions, you need to follow a number of rules:
  
• Lemon does not like to be turned sharply. If it is necessary to rotate the plant, this can be done no more than 10°. The next turn is made no earlier than 10 days later.
• The room should be provided with good lighting 12-14 hours a day. In winter and in shaded areas, additional lighting will be required. To do this, use fluorescent lamps or led lamps, which do not heat the air or dry it out.
• An important point is the size of the growing pot. It should be selected according to the size of the root system. In a container that is too small, the roots will be cramped, and in a container that is too large, the soil will turn sour. Both of these negatively affect the development of lemon. Therefore, a young plant is transplanted into a larger container 2-3 times a year, plants aged 2 to 5 years are transplanted annually, and older ones - once every 2-3 years. Each time the size of the pot is increased by two centimeters.
• When replanting, you should not forget about drainage, since without it the soil will turn sour. It is best to use expanded clay for this, pouring it onto the bottom with a thickness of 20-25% of the height of the pot.
• To fill the pot, it is better to use ready-made soil mixtures, since those prepared independently may contain pests, fungal spores and other infections.

  

  To fill the pot, it is better to use ready-made soil mixtures for lemons.

• Watering should be regular; the earthen clod should not be allowed to dry out. As soon as the top layer has dried to a depth of 2 cm, it should be immediately moistened. Soil flooding is no less destructive, so over-wetting it is also unacceptable.
• Cannot be used for watering and other procedures tap water, since it contains chlorine, which is harmful to plants. It is better to use melt, rain, bottled or filtered water. It is permissible to use tap water only after it has been allowed to sit for 3-5 days.

  

  To water lemons, it is better to use bottled, melt or rain water.

• Deficiency of macro- and microelements leads to chlorosis and other troubles, so lemon should be provided with a balanced, regular diet. The easiest way to do this is to use special complex fertilizers for citrus fruits, which contain everything you need. The fertilizing interval is 7-10 days.

  

  For lemon it is better to use complex fertilizers

• Under normal conditions, leaves and stems should be bathed once every 2-4 weeks. To do this, use a soap solution or a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate. During this procedure, fungal spores, eggs and insect larvae, if they somehow got there, are washed off from the surface. In hot weather, plants are irrigated with warm water as soon as they see the slightest signs of lightening or drooping of the leaves.
• Purchased flowers, bouquets, and fruits brought into the house may contain spores of fungal pathogens and various pests (aphids, scale insects, etc.). Therefore, such purchases should be carefully inspected for insects and kept away from the lemon.

Video: how to feed a lemon

Diseases of lemons indoors

Indoor lemon has a fairly large list of possible diseases. Let's look at the most common ones.

Chlorosis

This disease occurs as a result of stagnation of moisture, acidification of the soil, deficiency of iron and other elements. In this case, there is a decrease in the activity of photosynthesis and the formation of chlorophyll. The first sign is yellowing of the leaves and then their falling off. Then the tops of the shoots may dry out, the roots die, and the leaves become shredded.

When chlorosis turns yellow soft fabrics leaves, and the veins remain green

It is clear that the disease is caused by a violation of care, so first of all you need to eliminate them:

• Get rid of stagnant moisture, dry the soil, and replace it if necessary. Rinse and dry the drainage. You may need to transplant it into another, smaller pot.
• Test the acidity of the soil using litmus paper. If it is high, then the soil should be deoxidized by adding fluff lime or chalk. To do this, take half a tablespoon of powder and dilute it in a glass of warm water, then water the soil in the pot. The acidity of the water flowing from the drainage holes is measured, and if it is still high, the procedure is repeated until the pH level is within 6-6.5 units.
• Replenish iron deficiency by adding preparations containing it in chelated form, such as Ferrofit, Ferrilen, Antichlorosis, Micro-Fe and the like. Or you can simply dissolve 20-40 grams in one liter of water iron sulfate and feed the plant.

Phyllosticosis

This fungal disease is also called brown spot. A sign of the disease is the formation of brown or dark brown spots on the leaves that are round, oval or irregular shape. If treatment is not started, the spots grow and cover the entire surface of the leaf blade, after which the leaves dry out and fall off. Favorable conditions for the development of fungus are dampness and air temperature of +25 °C and above. The source of infection is soil, water, purchased flowers, etc.

When affected by phyllosticosis, brown spots form on the leaves of plants

To cure the plant, you should tear off the affected leaves and treat the crown with fungicides (these are drugs to combat fungal diseases). Popular drugs are Horus, Quadris, Abica-Peak and others. It is better to use them outdoors, but if you still have to use them indoors, then take precautions - prevent the drugs from getting on food or dishes, and ventilate the room after treatment. If the infection is not severe, then it is better to use biological products such as Fitosporin-M, which is absolutely safe for humans, animals and bees. At the same time, it is also a fertilizer, as it contains humic acids.

Anthracnose

This too fungal disease, which often affects lemons in greenhouses and greenhouses. If the room has high humidity and temperature, then indoor lemon may also become infected. Anthracnose can be recognized by the formation of dark brown spots on the leaves, covering the edges. If the infection is severe, the fungus spreads to the shoots and fruits, all leaves dry out, and the above-ground part of the plant dies.

Anthracnose can be recognized by the formation of dark brown spots on the leaves, covering the edges

Prevention and treatment are the same as for other fungal diseases.

Citrus cancer

If dark spots have formed on the lemon leaves brown spots with a yellow border, similar to small tumors, this means that the plant is infected with the citrus canker virus. It is not able to cause harm to a healthy plant, but if it is weakened by other diseases or poor quality care, then cancer will begin to develop. At the same time, it, starting on the leaves, will subsequently move to the fruits and shoots. We have not yet learned how to fight the disease, so the plant will definitely die. Without expecting this, it is destroyed as quickly as possible so as not to infect healthy lemons and other citrus fruits, if any. Prevention - careful adherence to the rules of lemon care, as well as regular treatments of the crown weak solution potassium permanganate at intervals of 3 months.

If dark brown spots with a yellow border appear on the leaves of the lemon, the plant is infected with the citrus canker virus.

Video: lemon diseases

Pests on lemon

Of course, in room conditions It is more difficult for insects to get to the plant, but there are still ways.

This is a hemiptera insect with a small (0.5-5 mm) body covered with a dense shield consisting of one or two larval skins and a secretory waxy part. Because of this, scale insects on the plant are sometimes perceived as droplets of wax. Young insects move actively, settling throughout the lemon. In adulthood, scale insects lose the ability to move and stick to the plant. Feeding on its juice, they themselves secrete a sweet liquid, which accumulates on the leaves and shoots, making them sticky. It clogs pores, preventing respiration and photosynthesis. This liquid is also a breeding ground for sooty fungus. If you do not fight the pest, the result will be disastrous - the leaves will curl, dry out and fall off, the plant will weaken and die.

Scale insects on the leaves resemble droplets of wax

Insecticides are used to kill pests. The contact preparation Fitoverm can be used against young larvae, but adult insects are reliably protected from its damaging effects by the shell. Therefore they will be more effective systemic drugs, which penetrate the plant’s vascular system. Pests, feeding on poisoned juice, die. The best of this group for lemon are Aktara and Aktellik. They can not only spray the crown, but also water the soil to enhance the effect. But it should be remembered that Actellik has a strong bad smell, so it can only be used outdoors. In addition, you can use various folk remedies - onion and garlic infusions (they are prepared by keeping chopped vegetables in water for about half a day at the rate of 50 grams per half liter), soap-kerosene solution (per liter of water 40 grams of grated soap and 1 ml kerosene) and others. In the initial stages of insect damage, you can wash off with soapy water using a brush or sponge.

Aphid

The smallest (0.5-3 mm) insect is widely known to everyone who has a garden, vegetable garden or indoor plants. As a rule, light green aphids can be found on lemons. Its harmful effect is similar to that of the scale insect - the aphid also feeds on the sap of leaves and shoots, secretes a sticky sweet liquid, and curls the leaves. The means and methods of dealing with it are also similar.

Light green aphids are more common on lemons.

Spider mite

This pest has microscopic dimensions (0.2-0.6 mm), and is not easy to see with the naked eye. Therefore, it is usually possible to detect its presence on a lemon only after some part of the leaves is damaged. Settling on the underside of the leaf, these arthropod arachnids pierce the leaf blade and feed on the sap. On the front side of the leaf, yellow spots form around the punctures, which are used to determine the presence of a mite. Subsequently, the leaves curl into irregularly shaped lumps, which the mite entangles in a web, thus equipping a nest.

Very small yellowish dots on the leaves indicate damage by spider mites.

It is small in size (from 3 to 6 mm) and has an oblong body, covered with a powdery, cotton-like white coating. Like the previous pests discussed, it is sucking and feeds on sap from all parts of the plant. A variety of citrus mealybug can also attack lemon roots. It's very easy to get rid of it. Since the bug is afraid of moisture, when it is detected, it is enough to simply bathe the lemon in warm soapy water, thoroughly washing off the insects. Then you should treat the crown with a strong-smelling infusion, for example, tobacco or garlic, to repel new pests.

The mealybug has an oblong body covered with a mealy, cotton-like white coating.

Video: Aktara treatment for pests

Some Frequently Asked Questions About Lemon

It is not always possible to determine the cause of deviations in the development of lemon. Let's answer some common questions about diagnosing problems.

Brown spots appeared on the lemon

This indicates infection with fungal diseases - anthracnose or phyllosticosis. In the worst case scenario, it could be citrus canker.

Why does a lemon drop flowers and what to do?

The reasons for this phenomenon may be various violations of lemon agricultural technology:

• Drafts and sudden changes in temperature during flowering.
• Moisture deficiency or excess.
• Inadequate nutrition, deficiency of potassium and phosphorus.
• Too much flowering, the plant sheds excess flowers.
• Moving a blooming lemon to other rooms, turning it 90-180°.
• Pest infestation.

To eliminate the problem, you need to normalize the living conditions, normalize by removing excess flowers (leave one of the largest buds per 10-15 leaves), and get rid of pests.

How can you treat lemon when rolling leaves?

To answer this question, you need to know the causes of the phenomenon. They can be like this:

• Leaves may curl due to lack of water. Maintenance rules must be followed optimal humidity for lemon.
• If there is a lack of fresh air, the leaves can also curl. Therefore, with the onset of warm days, indoor plants should be moved to verandas or under awnings and similar places, protected from drafts and direct rays of the sun.
• If the leaves do not straighten after watering and the situation remains unchanged, this means that the plant is deficient in boron. In this case, you need to make up for the deficiency by adding a 0.2% solution boric acid(2 g per liter of water).
• If the leaves are not rolled into a tube, but simply bent, then this indicates a copper deficiency. For such symptoms, you need to spray the lemon with a 0.5% solution of copper sulfate.
• And the leaves can curl as a result of damage by aphids or scale insects.

Why do lemon leaves have sticky leaves?

The most common cause is the sweetish secretions of aphids or scale insects. And also, perhaps, with excessive watering, the plant itself releases a sugary liquid.

How to help a lemon recover from illness

When a lemon has been cured of any disease, it will need to restore its strength and immunity. To do this, you should provide it with enhanced nutrition with complex fertilizers (but not overdo it), and also treat/feed it with growth stimulants. The most famous among them:

• Zircon;
• Amulet;
• Immunocytophyte;
• Epin.

If a lemon bloomed in the first year after a serious illness, then it is better to remove the flowers in order to preserve its strength to recover.

Growing lemons in an apartment is accessible only to a dedicated and attentive amateur. Only by scrupulously following the rules of agricultural technology can you count on a positive result.

Lemon, like other indoor plants, is subject to various diseases and attacks by pests. Sticky leaves are a fairly common problem that can occur for several reasons.

That is why, before treating a tree, it is necessary to establish the factor that caused such a state of green mass, and only then resort to appropriate measures.

If sticky spots appear on the lemon leaves, you need to carefully examine the plant. Often, incorrect agricultural practices are to blame for such a situation, but the cause may also be infestation by insect pests.

Sticky coating on lemon leaves is always a consequence of one of three negative factors:

• Long-term excessive watering;
• Defeat by scale insects;
• Aphid infestation.

In order for the green mass of lemon to withstand the appearance of sticky spots with minimal losses, it is necessary to choose effective treatment methods.

Excessive watering

Leaves covered with a sticky coating are a completely natural reaction of a tree to excess moisture in the soil. Under natural conditions, such a situation is not uncommon, because this representative of citrus fruits secretes a specific sugar liquid to attract ants.

They, in turn, protect the crop from pests, collecting them from all parts of the plant.

Take a close look at the soil in the pot - are you flooding it?

If the soil is excessively waterlogged and the leaves are sticky and shiny, then the reason lies in improper care.

What to do in this situation:

1. Normalize watering, moistening the substrate as needed, when the top layer (2-3 cm) dries.
2. Check the quality of the drainage system (the presence of holes for removing excess moisture and a drainage layer) and if it is missing, transplant the plant into another pot with everything necessary.
3. Use a suitable substrate for citrus fruits with sufficient looseness and water permeability.

If the lemon is heavily flooded, in addition to normalizing watering, it is necessary to completely replace the substrate with fresh one to avoid rotting of the root system.

Defeat by scale insects

The appearance of scale insects on a lemon is a much more serious problem than excessive watering, because in the absence of treatment and treatments the plant dies.

The pest can be present on a recently purchased flower, and then “move” to an indoor lemon, or get onto the tree in other ways.

The presence of scale insects can be determined by the following signs:

1. On the green mass you can see dry brown spots, brown pimples, as well as a sticky lemon on the trunk (a waste product of the pest).
2. Colonies of female scale insects (small black, transparent or other colored insects) and males (larger in size, approximately 2-3 mm) are visible on the plant.
3. The leaves are covered with sooty fungus.
4. The lemon gradually dries out due to exhaustion.

How to deal with scale insects:

1. Carry out interval treatment (3-5 times) with insecticide preparations “Aktara”, “Confidor”, “Fitoverm” every 4 days.
2. Spray all parts of the plant, including hard to reach places(internodes, root zone, lower part of the plates and leaf axils).
3. Chemical control methods can be alternated with effective folk remedies. It is advisable to use tobacco infusion (50 g of tobacco per 1 liter of water, leave for 2 days, spray 4 times every day). Or a soap-alcohol composition (dilute 10 ml of 70% alcohol and 15 ml of soap in 1 liter of water), preventing them from getting into the ground.

Additionally, you can spill the lemon with Aktara solution according to the instructions.

Sticky coating due to aphid infestation

Aphids are small light green insects that feed on plant juices and, if untreated, lead to complete death.

The pest is easy to see with the naked eye, because it settles on all vegetative parts of the lemon tree and provokes the appearance of a sticky coating, curling, and drying out of the plates and entire shoots.

What to do if you are infested with aphids:

1. Wash the affected parts of the lemon with a solution of laundry soap - pour 300 g with two liters of warm water and let it brew, then add 8 liters of cold water. Treat every 7 days.
2. Use garlic water - chop 1 head of garlic, add 200 ml of water and leave for 2 days, then use for spraying or wiping infected parts. Process the lemon at intervals of 5 days.
3. Use a herbal infusion of nettle or wormwood (pour 2 tablespoons of dry collection with a glass of boiling water and leave for 12 hours, strain before use).
4. Spray with propolis solution (5 tablespoons of pharmaceutical product diluted with 20 tablespoons of boiled water).

If folk remedies do not help get rid of aphids, it is advisable to use chemical insecticides (“Aktofit”, “Aktellik”, “Fitoverm”). The spray solution must be prepared according to the instructions on the package.

Prevention of sticky plaque: what to do to protect lemon?

Mineral fasting – common reason depletion of the lemon, which, as a result of reduced immunity, is attacked by pests and becomes covered with sticky spots.

As an effective preventive measure, it is recommended to introduce comprehensive mineral supplements for citrus fruits on a regular basis.

The composition of the following components also shows good effectiveness:

• Ammonium nitrate (10-15 g);
• Iron sulfate (3 g);
• Boric acid (5 ml);
• Potassium sulfate (1 tbsp.)

The mixture is diluted with 10 liters of water and applied once every 4-5 months. In addition to enriching the soil with mineral components, the solution has an antifungal and growth-stimulating effect.

If a sticky coating appears on lemon leaves, you should not delay treatment - the sooner you start treatment, the faster the tree will recover and begin to grow.

All scale insects have pronounced sexual demorphism - males and females differ in structure; very often, when describing a new species of scale insects, scientists characterize only the females, since it is the feeding females that are visible on the stems and leaves of plants, while the males live very little, only before mating, then they die. In some species of scale insects, very few males hatch - only 2-3%; they are difficult to detect.

What does a scale insect look like?

Females have no legs, no wings, no eyes, no antennae, but they have well-developed mouthparts of the piercing-sucking type. While the females are young, the scutum is soft and insects can move. When the scutellum matures, they become motionless. Externally, most scale insects, common on indoor flowers, are similar - the body is oval or rounded from 1.5 to 2 mm in length. The body under the shield is white or pale brown, segmentation is not pronounced. The scutellum in mature individuals can cover the entire surface of the body, or partially, be highly convex, hemispherical, or flattened. The color of the scutellum is yellowish-brown, dark brown, and consists of the secretory part and larval skins. At different stages of the larvae, the skins can be of different colors, so the shield is often of uneven color, for example, the outer ring is golden brown, the central one is dark brown. Among the scale insects common on garden crops, there are larger species: with a pear-shaped or teardrop-shaped body up to 5 mm long.
Males have reduced oral organs, but have eyes, fully formed limbs and wings. The body is segmented into head, thorax and abdomen. Males are mostly white and fluffy. Sometimes reddish, red-gray, light orange. They also have a shield, only a very small one.

The eggs of the scale insect are oval in shape; in some species they are elongated oval, usually white or light gray in color, gradually darkening to light brown. The eggs are very small, approximately 0.1-0.3 mm, and look like worms under a microscope.

The first instar larva is called a vagrant— it has a flattened oval body, up to 0.3 mm long, yellowish in color, three pairs of legs, antennae, and eyes. In many species of scale insects, you can tell by the color of the larva what it will regenerate into. So, in the mulberry scale, the strays are white and red, the white ones grow into females, and the red ones into males.
The second instar larva is larger. Her body is white or gray rear end the bodies are usually darker, reaching 0.5 mm in size. At this point, the female larva has no legs, antennae, or eyes. It is distinguished from an adult individual only by its size and lighter coloration of the shield.
Among several thousand species, there are scale insects of a slightly different appearance - some have females with an almost transparent body, the shield is invisible, they seem to be glassy; others have very irregularly shaped bodies, like blobs; still others have a rich black shield. The morphological stages of development of scale insects may also differ; for example, some tropical scale insects do not have an egg stage.
There is no point in describing a specific type of scale insects; once you see them in photographs or in person, you will no longer confuse them with anyone else.

Scale insect development cycle.

Scale insects have a pronounced life cycle. But there are differences between tropical scale insects and temperate scale insect pests. They are related to climatic conditions.
In nature, it looks like this: after mating, the female carries eggs for three months and feeds on plant sap. Three months after fertilization, she lays many eggs, according to various sources, from 250 to 500 eggs, after which she dies.

Scale insects living in temperate climates, for example, the apple scale, have the following stages of development:
egg >> first instar larvae (vagrants) >> second instar larvae >> males and females >> egg.

Females have an elongated and widely rounded end of the scutum - under it is the entire clutch of fertilized eggs, the body of the female herself simply dries out, freeing up the house for the children. Our winters are harsh and all egg laying is stored under the shield. By the end of May, when the average daily temperature reaches about +8C, the eggs hatch and begin to actively colonize plants, mainly young, slightly lignified branches and young shoots.

The development cycle from a stray to a sexually mature female takes an average of three months. Then mating occurs. The number of males in the population is approximately 20-35%. After fertilization, the males die. Oviposition begins in August. Thus, the development cycle is approximately 1 year: 9-10 months egg maturation, 35-60 days larvae, 3 months female. In southern latitudes, these species of scale insects can form two generations per year.

Tropical species, for example, the Californian scale insect, have slightly different stages of development:
first instar larvae (overwinter) >> female larva and male larva >> parthenogenesis* >> mating >> first instar larvae (vagrants) >> diapause larvae >> second instar male and female larvae >> male and female adults.
The shield of females is usually round - they do not need a house for oviposition; females of many species of tropical scale insects lay larvae. Larvae born in autumn overwinter in shelters (under bark, leaf axils). In the spring, the vagrants come out of hiding, quickly take a liking to the juiciest places and develop into the next stage of larvae, adult individuals - males and females. By the time of mass maturation of females, the flight of males begins (it lasts several days). There are few males, their number from the total population is no more than 8-9%. Mating occurs, after which the male dies.

* Not many males are born, because scale insects exhibit the phenomenon of parthenogenesis - this is virgin reproduction, when sexually mature females grow up without fertilization (mating with males).

The development cycle of the scale insect from the awakening of strays to a sexually mature female is on average a week or two. Some of the vagrants in mid-summer go into a state of diapause - dormancy. This helps the scale insects survive unfavorable conditions, since in the summer the strays die from prolonged drought or heavy, prolonged rains. Diapause can last from several weeks to several months. Most of the larvae turn into females. And it takes about another month for their development. In males of some species of scale insects, the development cycle includes additional two stages: pronymphs and nymphs. Thus, the entire development cycle is approximately 60 days.

It must be said that there is no classification of scale insects by climatic types; this is presented here only for clarity, in order to see the difference and diversity in development individual species pests. Some scale insects, common in subtropical regions, for example, the false Californian scale insect, also have an egg stage, only then larvae. Typically, oviparous scale insects differ in the shape and size of the shield - it is quite wide, like a Vietnamese hat, round or pear-shaped. In addition, in some species of scale insects, it is not the eggs that overwinter, but the females in a state of diapause.
The number of molts can also be different: for example, females can have two larval stages, males - three.
From the point of view indoor floriculture the danger of scale insects is that due to parthenogenesis - the birth of females without fertilization, scale insects can reproduce all year round, producing about 5-6 generations, the process of generational change is continuous. At the same time, males among indoor scale insects They are extremely rare, but if they appear, for some reason they are very scary. Someone begins to think that this unknown, terribly gluttonous creature. In fact, the development cycle of scale insects, with or without males, is no different. The males themselves do not harm the plants - they simply have nothing to eat. In fact, male scale insects hatch for the sole purpose of fertilization, so all they have are eyes, wings and genitals.
Harm from scale insects
All scale insects cause enormous damage to plants; in gardens, in 3-4 years they can completely destroy an entire fruit tree. In countries with a warm climate, in agricultural regions, when certain types of scale insects (for example, mulberry) are detected, strict quarantine is introduced. During this period, the export of seedlings and seedlings is strictly prohibited. Fruit trees and shrubs, stone fruits and tea plantations are treated with pesticides.
In indoor conditions, scale insects, having settled on a plant, will also lead to its death in the shortest possible time. Scale insects come into our house with infected flowers from the store, planting material (soil), and stray insects are carried in by the wind.
At the site where the scale insect is sucked, yellow spots appear on the leaves; they grow in size as the cell sap is sucked out, then the leaf turns completely yellow or brown, curls and falls off. The plant stops growing, the branches become bare, then the entire bush begins to dry out and the plant dies. In addition to the leaves, the scale insect damages the fruits of citrus fruits (tangerines, lemons and oranges), the ovaries fall off prematurely, and the flowers dry out.
Another sign of the appearance of scale insects is sticky discharge on the leaves. . Scale insects produce a sweetish liquid - honeydew, which covers the stems, leaf petioles, leaves, buds and fruits. Sooty fungus and dust stick to it.
Measures to combat scale insects
As soon as you find scale insects, something that looks like brown plaques on the stems, petioles, axils and leaves themselves, immediately isolate the plant and also check all the plants that were nearby. Adult scale insects are protected from the effects of insecticides by a shield, but they can be removed from the plant mechanically.
The best way to do this is to use a cotton pad and sponge for delicate leaves, or an old toothbrush (with soft bristles) for denser leaves. Soak in soapy water and thoroughly wipe each leaf on both sides, as well as the stems. Even if it seems to you that there is no pest on some leaf yet, you need to treat the whole plant, otherwise there will be one surviving larva, and after a few weeks the whole plant will be covered with scale insects again. For washing leaves, any dishwashing detergent (AOS, Fairy, etc.), laundry soap, tar soap, green soap. Whip up a thick foam and leave it on the leaves for 30 minutes, then rinse hot water(water temperature is permissible up to 50 degrees - the hand is hot). Hot shower - 2-3 minutes. If you carry out soapy washing and hot shower procedures once a week, you can get rid of scale insects without chemicals. Without washing, on plants that will not tolerate such a procedure, it is necessary to spray with an insecticide. But a single treatment will not completely rid them of scale insects. Since the female’s shield protects her and her egg-laying from contact insecticides, you need to soak the plant in the solution, lower the entire crown into a bucket of chemicals, or apply watering systemic insecticides— Aktara or Confidor are the drugs of choice.

The following contact medications are effective against scale insects:
Neonicotinoids:

• Tanrek
• Colorado
• Iskra Golden
• Mospilan
  

Organophosphorus compounds:

• Aktellik,
• Karbofos and others.

Hormonal insecticides, juvenoids - regulators of insect growth and development, for example, Admiral (pyriproxyfen).

ATTENTION: Treatment with contact and enteric-contact insecticides must be repeated at least three times, with an interval of 7 days, in order to guarantee the destruction of the generation of pests, newly hatched larvae from eggs.

In addition, the frames and glass of the window, the window sill where the infected plant stood, must be wiped with an alcohol-containing liquid or dishwashing solution.
If you live with small children, relatives, patients with asthma or allergic diseases, if you do not have the opportunity to thoroughly ventilate the apartment after using chemicals, or if you are pregnant, do not spray plants against scale insects with insecticides of a high hazard class (karbofos, actellik), there are less dangerous ways, read the next recommendation.

Flea and tick repellents against scale insects.

In addition to the above insecticides, flea products containing the active ingredients imidacloprid, and/or fipronil and cypermethrin are effective against scale insects. These are remedies for fleas, lice, and ixodid ticks from a veterinary pharmacy: Avanpost drops, Advantix and others.
If you have only one plant infected with scale insects, buy the smallest dosage - drops for indoor dogs or cats. If you have a severe scale infestation and need to treat several plants, buy drops for large dogs weighing more than 25 kg.

How to process:

1. Dilute the contents of the pipette with drops with water; there will be no complete dissolution - an emulsion will form.
2. Dilute a small pipette with 500 ml of water, and a large pipette with 1 liter of warm water.
3. Then thoroughly moisten all the leaves of the plants on both sides with the resulting emulsion, try to ensure that the solution gets into the axils and covers both the stems and petioles. Be sure to wet the top layer of soil.
4. Leave the solution on the plant to dry.
5. Wash the window sills and glass with the same solution (or just soap).
6. When the plants are dry, ventilate the room thoroughly.
7. There is no need to wash off the flea and tick repellent; if the smell remains, you can wash off the emulsion the next day.
   One flea and tick treatment is usually sufficient. But if the damage was very strong, you need to repeat the treatment after 7 days.

If it is not possible to repeat the spraying, if there are no oil drops, another option: put all the flower pots in large garbage bags (120 liters), tie the bag so that it is inflated, but not completely - leave a gap. Spray the bag thoroughly with flea and tick aerosol, for example, Bolfo aerosol. We do not recommend using dichlorvos - it has a very short-term effect and high initial toxicity. So, put the aerosol into the bag and press the sprayer for 4-5 seconds. We carefully tie the bags and leave them like that for a day. Pests die from suffocation.
It is best to carry out all procedures outside (take the plants out in boxes, put them in a basin) or on the balcony.

The effectiveness of actara against scale insects

Among flower growers, an opinion has emerged that actara is not very effective against scale insects and scale insects. Where did it come from: one of the sites described the active ingredient of actara - thiamethoxam, followed by a quote: “the low biological effectiveness of thiamethoxam against scale insects is due to the fact that it quickly spreads through the phloem, but poorly penetrates the sucutilary cells, the contents of which are sucked out by scale insects.”
In fact, there was a typo in the text, and everyone successfully quoted it. In this case we mean the succuticular layers - i.e. layers of integumentary tissues of leaves, stems and fruits. Indeed, thiamethoxam, when watered with actara at the root, penetrates the phloem of the leaves, but only a very small part of it penetrates the integumentary tissue. But when sprayed with actara solution, approximately 60% of thiamethoxam is absorbed by the main tissues of the leaf (mesophyll), 10% by the epidermis and about 30% remains on the waxy layer of the cuticle. Those. the concentration of the active substance in the epidermal layer is high enough to poison the pest.

Diseases of indoor lemon can be of fungal, viral and bacterial origin. They spread through insects, water droplets during watering and spraying. It is important to remember: a healthy plant is less susceptible to disease than a weakened one. That is why at home it is simply necessary to provide the flower with proper care and microclimate. The main thing in treating a flower is correct and timely diagnosis and adequate actions to eliminate the disease. So, diseases of indoor lemon, their description with photos, effective treatment from specialists.

Typical diseases of indoor lemon and their treatment

Why do lemon leaves turn yellow and curl? Why does the plant shed its leaves? Why do lemon leaves become covered with black spots? The cause may be improper care, lack of microelements or flower diseases. If the leaves fall off, it means that the homemade lemon may lack light; it has been overwatered. Lemon leaves fall off if the air in the room where it is located is dry or the horse system is disturbed.

Most often, lemon leaves fall in the autumn. winter period, but leaf fall can be observed at any other time of the year. The main reason: unfavorable conditions. For example, a recently purchased plant may lose its leaves. The explanation is simple: in the greenhouses where it is grown, the conditions are different from the microclimate in the apartment. Leaf fall is a reaction to a change in the growing microclimate. After purchasing, the lemon must acclimatize to the new conditions; it is not advisable to replant it; it is provided with proper care. At this time, it is important not to overwater the flower, since without leaves the process of moisture evaporation is disrupted. Experts recommend spraying more than watering; you can add epin to the solution.

Why does a lemon shed its leaves if its growing location has not changed? Reason: lack of light. This plant belongs to the category of light-loving, that is, it needs a 12-hour day of light. In the autumn-winter period, when the length of daylight hours decreases, the plant must be illuminated with a fluorescent lamp. It is better to place the pot on the western or eastern side of the house, or on the southern side, but with obligatory shading.

The lemon dropped its leaves if it was replanted with a complete or partial replacement of the soil. In this case, the root system is disrupted, which necessarily affects the crown. She crumbles. What to do? We need to help the flower restore root system. To do this, watering is reduced, the flower is placed under a greenhouse (plastic film), which should not touch the leaves and branches of the flower. Spraying is carried out to maintain high level humidity in the greenhouse. Every day the greenhouse is ventilated for 15 minutes to prevent the formation of condensation. Epin is added to the spraying solution once a week, and root can be added to the watering solution. There is no need to suddenly remove the greenhouse. To adapt the flower, increase the ventilation time every day. The greenhouse is completely removed when new leaves appear on the lemon.

Lemon drops leaves when it is attacked by cancer, viral mosaic. All these diseases are viral in nature. In most cases, diseases cannot be treated when grown indoors, and the plant is completely discarded in order to prevent infection of other flowers.

Cancer on lemon leaves looks like brown spots of irregular shape, which dry out and crumble inside. With prolonged disease, young lemon leaves develop deformed and small. The disease cannot be treated; it can be prevented by spraying the flower with fungicides in the spring.

Leaves fall if homemade lemon is affected by leaf mosaic. On the leaves it looks like light spots of irregular shape, sometimes spreading across the plate in the form of streaks. Mosaic cannot be treated; in most cases, the plant is removed.

Lemon leaves curl if the watering schedule is disrupted. This is drying or waterlogging of the soil. In the first case, you need to water the flower with small portions of water, but do not allow the soil in the pot to become waterlogged. In both cases, the plant is placed under a greenhouse, where it is regularly sprayed. Overmoistening the soil in a pot leads to rotting of the roots. Damaged roots can no longer “drink” water, and therefore the plant suffers from moisture deficiency even in waterlogged soil. In this case, watering is stopped. The lemon is taken out of the pot, but the integrity of the earthen ball must not be damaged, and it is wrapped in paper. The latter will draw out excess moisture from the soil. Drying in this way is carried out for 3 days, the plant needs to be shaded. Then the flower is returned to the pot and a greenhouse is organized for it. Watering is not carried out, much attention is paid to spraying.

Lemon leaves dry out around the edges if indoors high temperature and low air humidity. Optimal temperature regime for lemon +20...+23 degrees, humidity - not lower than 70%. Otherwise, the plant gets sick. Very often the leaves of indoor lemons turn yellow if they are placed close to heating appliances in winter. The plant does not like dry air, and even in winter it may suffer from lack of light. It is illuminated with a fluorescent lamp.

The leaves turn yellow and fall off if the lemon is infested with spider mites.. In this case, there will be a white coating on the back side of the leaf plate, and a light, whitish cobweb on the branches. The leaves are covered with small spots. How to treat? It is necessary to wash the plant in the shower warm water, then treat with one of the preparations Fitoverm, Vertimer (three times with an interval of 10 days) or Akarin, Neoron (4 times with an interval of 7-10 days). It is better when the affected flower is isolated from the rest of the collection.

zhvetnik.ru

Why does a lemon get sick?

This exotic plant is affected by diseases and pests in the following cases:

• in the process of grafting with a diseased cutting;
• improper care: planting in contaminated soil, too frequent or infrequent watering, insufficient lighting, improper pruning or insufficient soil fertilization;
• the plant did not have time to get stronger after the previous disease;
• infection of healthy domestic specimens by street ones;
• entry of bacteria, viruses and fungi into the room during ventilation;
• making mistakes in the process of propagation, planting and transplanting.

Classification of diseases

Diseases of indoor lemon are divided into 2 groups:

• viral;
• fungal.

For each disease, a specific treatment regimen is used using special medications.

Viral

Diseases of indoor lemons caused by viruses lead to massive loss of leaves on the tree. After such diseases, the plant becomes completely bare and often dies. It is advisable for novice flower growers to familiarize themselves with their description and control methods.

Sheet mosaic

Dark and light streaks appear on the leaves of the affected specimen, according to appearance reminiscent of a mosaic. Over time, they become pale or completely white and lose their shape. Young lemon leaves develop deformed. With leaf mosaic, the tree stops growing.

If a lemon gets sick with this disease, it is quarantined, away from healthy specimens. Get rid of it completely sheet mosaic impossible, because at the moment there are no drugs for this disease. All you can do is alleviate its symptoms by providing proper care, and first of all, balanced and regular feeding. Severely affected specimens must be destroyed.

Citrus cancer

This disease appears as brown spots on lemon leaves. It is also characterized by the appearance of brown spots on the fruit. With a long course of the disease, young lemon leaves become deformed and take on an ugly shape. The fruits shrink and do not develop. Over time, this specimen dies.

Treatment of this disease of homemade lemons is impossible, therefore, in order to prevent it, preventive measures: treatment in spring with liquid copper fungicides.

Tristeza

The first sign that tristeza has appeared on a houseplant is massive leaf loss. Then the bark and shoots die, which become covered with brown spots. A specimen infected with tristeza cannot be treated and quickly dies.

Most often, lemons suffer from viral infections if they are not properly cared for and during periods of weakened immunity.

Fungal and infectious

Damage to lemons by fungus or infection at home is not uncommon. The reasons are the same as for infection with viral diseases.

Gomoz

The presence of elongated brown spots on the branches and trunk are the first signs of homosis. The bark under such spots quickly dies and begins to crack. A golden-colored sticky substance forms at the crack sites, which quickly hardens.

The main reasons for the development of homemade lemon disease are: mechanical damage bark (fractures, cracks), increased humidity in the room, lack of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in the soil, excess nitrogen, planting in already contaminated soil or deepening the trunk too deep.

A sick specimen should be treated in the following way: remove the infected bark on the trunk, cut off severely affected shoots. Treat the areas of stripping and pruning with any fungicide of 3% concentration and cover with garden varnish.

The duration of treatment will depend on the degree of damage to the tree. The treatment is carried out until brown spots stop forming.

Anthracnose

Of all the diseases, indoor lemons are most often affected by anthracnose. It is determined that this sore appears on the lemon by the leaves: they fall off en masse. But first the leaf blade turns white or yellow. Flower buds also fall. The fruits are covered with reddish spots.

Control measures include removing dead branches and infected leaves. Treat the affected specimen three times with Fitosporin. Another option is to treat the wood with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Scab

The tree begins to be treated by spraying with 1% Bordeaux mixture. All affected parts on the crown are first removed.

Melseko

When Melseco is infected, the tree branches begin to dry out at the tips, and the leaves fall off en masse. When cut, the branches acquire a reddish tint.

The reason is improper care, or rather, lack of light in winter. There is no point in fighting this disease, because all methods are useless. The only thing required is regular inspection of the tree for symptoms.

Affected specimens must be destroyed.

Root rot

It is not uncommon for indoor lemons to lose their leaves. If 1-2 leaves fall off, there is no need to worry: this is a natural process. If there is massive leaf fall, it is worth digging up the tree and inspecting its root system.

If the roots become dark, moldy and soft to the touch, the tree is affected by root rot. All rotten parts are cut off with a sterile knife or pruning shears. The cut areas are powdered with crushed charcoal. Next, transplant into a new flowerpot.

The transplanted lemongrass is placed in a well-lit place with protection from the scorching sun. Watering is allowed only a week after transplantation to prevent repeated rotting of the root system.

Pests

In addition to fungal and viral diseases There are different pests of indoor lemon.

Shchitovka

Treatment of homemade lemon diseases is carried out using insecticides or a soap solution. For 1 liter of water, use 2 tbsp. l. any liquid soap. All parts that bulge are processed.

After treatment, the wood is washed in the shower. After 2-3 days, the treatment procedure is repeated.

Common aphid

In case of minor damage, they manage by trimming the affected parts along with the insects. If the aphids have spread to the entire plant, treat the crown with garlic infusion (4 peeled and crushed heads of garlic are infused in 5 liters of water for 24 hours). Insecticides are also used to treat infected specimens.

Root aphid

You can notice how this pest appears by the appearance of the plant. It becomes lethargic, stops growing, the leaves become drooping and turn yellow.

Such a tree is removed from the pot, its roots are sprayed with a contact insecticide or a weak garlic infusion, and then transplanted into a new container, having previously sterilized the planting soil.

Spider mite

Spider mites often appear on lemons. These lemon pests appear in conditions of drought and low indoor humidity. They attack young leaves and twigs. The appearance of small cobwebs on the lemon indicates the spread of the mite.

Ticks are destroyed at home by treating them four times with a 1% boric acid solution. The interval between treatments is 5 days.

If spider mites infect a lemon, increase the humidity level in the room and carry out frequent irrigation procedures for the above-ground part.

Preventive measures

To prevent the appearance of diseases and pests on this exotic plant, the gardener is required not only to comply with agrotechnical rules, but also to provide competent care. First of all, such measures should be aimed at increasing the plant’s immunity and its resistance to infection.

It is possible to prevent chlorosis (imbalance in the distribution of chlorophyll) and activate the growth and development of the plant by using the following composition in the nutrition of an indoor tree:

• ammonium nitrate - 15 g;
• iron sulfate - 3 g;
• boric acid - 5 g;
• Potassium sulfate - 15 g.

The dry mixture is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Lemons are watered with a nutrient solution no more than once every 5 months.

This composition protects indoor citrus fruits from fungal, viral and infectious diseases. It gently stimulates the healthy development of plants.

In the process of growing lemons, it is important:

Despite the fact that the citrus tree is susceptible to many diseases and pests, it is not difficult to prevent their occurrence. You just need to follow preventive measures, show attention and care towards the plant, and then it will reward you with a healthy and decorative appearance.

fermoved.ru

without a plastic bag, scale insects die well from aktelik ———————sticky and shiny from the substances that scale insects secrete

with a bag it’s safer for yourself, but keep the bag for a day - it takes a long time for the plant to die - an hour maximum of two, no more than the bag can be kept on the plant

Aktellik
Perifosmethyl, 500g/l
(emulsion concentrate)

Not phytotoxic. Dangerous for bees and fish. Do not allow to enter water bodies. For high efficiency effect of the drug, it is necessary to adjust the sprayer well, achieving a uniform production of very small drops. High-quality processing one that ensures complete wetting of the plant without dripping. Spraying is recommended to be carried out in dry, windless weather in the morning or evening.

Carry out the treatment outside the living room, wear gloves!

Instructions for use
Actellik - emulsion concentrate (500g/l pirimiphosmethyl). A product for controlling insect pests in the garden and vegetable garden.

Directions for use
Pour 0.1 liters of water into a glass jar, pour out the contents of the ampoule and mix thoroughly, then bring the working solution to the required volume. Spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather, preferably in the morning (before 10 o'clock) or in the evening (18-22 o'clock), evenly wetting the leaves, 4-6 hours before rain. Do not spray against the wind. The optimal temperature for treatments is 12-25°C. The last treatment period is no later than 20 days before harvest. Hazard class - 2. Dangerous for bees, do not treat during flowering, dangerous for fish, do not allow it to enter water bodies.

Water consumption rate per 2 ml of drug per l
Citrus fruits (mites, whiteflies, false scale insects) - 0.4;
Ornamental crops, indoor flowers(pest complex) -1;
Peas (pea aphid) - 1;
Potatoes (Colorado beetle) - 0.7;
Cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants open ground(greenhouse whitefly, mites, aphids, thrips) -0.7;
Cabbage (pest complex), radishes (flea beetles), celery (aphids), carrots ( carrot fly, psyllids) - 0.7;
Strawberries (moths, moths, sawflies, leaf rollers), raspberries, currants, gooseberries (gall midges, aphids, beetles, mites) 1.3;
Grapes (leafrollers, mealybugs, mites) - 0.7;
Sea buckthorn (sea buckthorn fly, sea buckthorn aphid, sea buckthorn gall mite) - 2;
Melon (melon bug), currant (pest complex) - 0.7.
Precautions
To prepare the working solution, do not use food containers; the working solution cannot be stored! Carry out the treatment in the absence of children and animals. It is advisable to work in clothing specially designed for this purpose, safety glasses, and a respirator. While working, you must not smoke, drink, or eat. After work, wash your face and hands with soap. If skin irritation occurs or the drug gets into your eyes, rinse with plenty of water for 15 minutes. If the drug gets inside, give the victim to drink 1-2 glasses of water, induce vomiting, and consult a doctor.

otvet.mail.ru

Scale insect - description of the insect

The scale or shield aphid is the most common pest on citrus plants. The sucking insect, depending on the species, has sizes from 1 to 5 mm. To protect them from external influences, their body is covered with a wax shield. In insects belonging to the suborder Coccidae, male and female individuals differ significantly. Males are smaller than females, they have one pair of wings and normally developed limbs. Their scutes are flat and elongated, their mouthparts are poorly developed.

Females are noticeably larger, but are completely devoid of limbs (in some cases, even vision). The lemon scale sticks to the plant and leads a sedentary lifestyle. The purpose of the female is procreation; to protect her and her offspring, the scale insect is endowed with a powerful rounded shell. The male finds a mating partner by moving around the plant. After the female is fertilized, they die.

Pests reproduce by eggs; viviparous species are less common. The insects are very prolific and quickly colonize the plant. Active larvae emerge from the eggs. They move around lemon tree until they find a comfortable place to latch on. Females remain motionless forever. Females live for several months, during which time they lay up to 100 eggs. After several molts, a shell of skins and a wax segment appears on the back of the insects.

Information. The false scale insect, a pest very similar to the scale insect, settles on plants. They differ in several ways: larger size (up to 7 mm), the shell is easily separated from the insect, and pseudoscale insects do not secrete a sweet secretion.

How dangerous are scale insects?

Shield aphids spread throughout the plant:

• lower and upper part leaves;
• trunk;
• young shoots.

Adults and larvae suck cell sap from the plant. They do not hibernate seasonally, being active all year round. A tree damaged by them slows down its growth, its leaves turn yellow and fall off. Behind the leaves, the trunk begins to dry out, because it also serves as food for an ever-increasing population of pests. Having noticed the listed symptoms, you must immediately begin to treat the lemon scale insect. In addition to the damage caused by insects personally. They cause fungal infection of the plant. Scale insects secrete a sticky substance on the leaves; this substance is a favorable environment for the development of sooty fungus.

Information. Sooty fungus affects plants with weakened immunity; it clogs cells, preventing respiration, and interfering with photosynthesis. The leaves of the affected plant die completely.

Signs of defeat

The cause of plant disease can be various pests; to determine their type, it is necessary to examine the leaves and trunk of the lemon. At the initial stage of the attack, the small insect manages to hide well from human eyes. Small larvae difficult to see, but adults are clearly visible. They appear as brown or brown tubercles along the veins of the leaves, on the trunks. These accumulations look like a brown waxy coating. Also noticeable is the sticky secretion that the shield aphid leaves on the leaves.

Information. Indoor lemons are infected with scale insects through the soil with larvae; it is possible to purchase a diseased tree. The source of the pest can be purchased bouquets, fruits, and other indoor flowers.

Pest control methods

It is quite difficult to destroy scale insects on indoor lemons due to their durable shell. It serves as a shield for the pest from chemicals and other harmful substances. But with persistence and using various means, you can achieve complete destruction of insects.

Mechanical method

The shell of an adult does not allow insecticides to penetrate the insect's body. To remove them from lemon you should use mechanically. To do this you will need:

• alcohol or alcohol-containing product;
• cotton swab or toothbrush.

A cotton swab is moistened with alcohol, and then all places where a cluster of scale insects is noticed are wiped. If insects are difficult to remove, you can use a toothbrush. You should carefully examine the leaves on both sides, ovaries and stems. The scale insect on lemon settles in large quantities, so do the work carefully.

Chemicals

A pest that multiplies quickly like scale insects cannot be dealt with without chemicals.

Information. Chemicals They destroy the scale insect only at the larval stage. Treatment is carried out twice, with an interval of 10 days.

Among the effective means:

• "Actellik" is a broad-spectrum drug that destroys the body of insect pests. It is used to kill sucking insects. Home plant lovers who have used the drug on their lemons confirm its effectiveness. The disadvantage of Actellik is its sharp, specific smell, which causes a headache in a closed room. If possible, it is better to carry out the treatment outdoors. If the insecticide was applied in an apartment, the room should be well ventilated.
• "Aktara" - the product is considered one of the best drugs against pests. The fight against scale insects on lemon will take only a day, after this period the insects die en masse. The effect of "Aktara" persists when sprayed for up to 4 weeks. The drug can be poured under the root of a low tree, it will be absorbed into the sap of the plant and poison the pests. The substance is classified as moderately hazardous. Therefore, its use for indoor plants does not cause negative consequences.
• “Fitoverm” is a biological type insectoacaricide that has an intestinal contact effect on pests. The drug does not pollute the soil and decomposes quickly. Lemon fruits can be eaten 2-3 days after processing the tree.

Folk remedies

Chemicals are often used with caution, especially for indoor plants. The use of a composition of soap and kerosene received a lot of positive feedback from flower growers and gardeners. A soap film covers the plant, preventing air access to the insect, and kerosene, flowing under the shell, poisons the scale insect. To prepare the composition you will need the following ingredients:

• 1 liter of water;
• 50 g laundry soap;
• 5 drops of kerosene.

Advice. Before mixing, rub the soap on a fine grater, so it will dissolve in water faster.

All components are combined in one container and mixed thoroughly until the soap dissolves. Use the prepared mixture to treat the entire lemon against scale insects. The solution is left on the plant for 2-3 hours, then washed off with clean water. A pot of indoor lemon can be taken into the bathroom and washed well in the shower.

For processing, tinctures of garlic, onion and pepper are used. They are prepared according to a similar recipe: 50 g of a vegetable (onion with peel, pepper or garlic) is crushed and filled with 0.5 liters of water. Infuses for 14-15 hours. The composition is wiped on leaves and branches. Traditional recipes are effective in combination with mechanical removal of insects.

Preventive measures

To prevent lemon damage from pests, you should follow simple preventive measures:

• Trim damaged branches and weak shoots in a timely manner. attracting pests;
• send recently purchased plants to quarantine;
• keep the soil in the pot clean;
• regularly ventilate the room, ensure sufficient humidity levels;
• Every week, wipe the leaves of the plant on both sides with a damp cloth, this will get rid of dust and pests.

The fight against scale insects must be comprehensive; this is the only way to completely get rid of insects on your homemade lemon. Compliance with preventive rules will prevent the plant from becoming infected with dangerous pests.

beetlestop.ru

Appearance of sticky leaves

If you take a lemon that grows in its natural environment, then with its sticky coating it attracts ants, and they allow you to fight pests. If the leaves are covered with plaque, this is not always bad.

Appearances of scale insects

Symptoms indicating a scale insect infection:

• a coating appears on the lemon;
• spots may appear;
• the plant dries out.

After such treatment, the fruits from this tree cannot be eaten, because they will also absorb poison. After destroying the scale insects, you need to remove the top layer of soil and add a new one.

You can use other methods, after which the fruits will be suitable for consumption. Solution recipe: take a liter of water and pour 50 grams of tobacco into it, mix, let it brew for 48 hours. Spray lemon with the prepared solution 4 times a day.

Aphids as the cause of sticky leaves

To get rid of aphids at home, you need to treat the plant with a solution of laundry soap every day for a week.

selomoe.ru

Why does a lemon get sick?

Lemon is easily susceptible to diseases and attacks by pests and viruses in the following cases:

• If he did not have time to get stronger after recovering from other illnesses.
• If it is provided with poor care: contaminated soil, poor lighting, improper pruning, insufficient soil fertilization, improper watering, etc.
• If a virus or pathogenic bacteria was brought by insects or a diseased cutting during grafting.

Viruses and bacteria can enter the plant when ventilating the room, but this happens quite rarely.

Most often, viruses, bacteria and pests infect the leaves of indoor lemons. However, if a lemon drops fruits and leaves, the reason for this may be a lack of microelements:

• If the light-colored leaves have a pronounced network of green veins, the lemon needs manganese, zinc or iron. Another reason is disturbances in soil pH.
• If an adult leaf loses its gloss, dries out at the ends and turns reddish-brown, the plant does not have enough phosphorus.

• If pale yellow specks appear on the leaf, and it turns yellow and dull over time, this indicates a lack of nitrogen.
• If grooves appear between the veins of the leaves, the lemon needs potassium supplementation.
• If a plant drops its ovaries, it urgently needs manganese.

Too frequent feeding is also not beneficial for the plant. If leaves fall on a lemon, what should you do in this case? Hold off on feeding and evaluate the correctness of care: suddenly you are doing something wrong.

Viral diseases of indoor lemon

Let's learn about three viral diseases that cause lemons to shed leaves: why they often lead to the death of the plant, and whether they can be cured:

Sheet mosaic

Having become ill with it, the leaves become covered with dark or light strokes in the form of a mosaic and lose their shape. The growth of the tree noticeably slows down.

This disease cannot be cured by any means, but symptoms can be reduced by regularly fertilizing the soil and providing the plant with proper care. If you have other lemons, it is better to destroy the plant affected by the virus as soon as possible.

Citrus cancer

When infected with this virus, brown spots appear on the foliage and fruits. When the form is neglected, the leaf falls off, the lemons take on an ugly shape, and a little later the tree dies.

It is impossible to cure citrus cancer: to prevent it in the spring, we treat the plant with liquid copper fungicide.

Tristeza

Having picked up tristeza, the lemon loses its foliage, the bark or twigs die off. The plant dies - it cannot be cured.

Most often, viruses infect weakened lemons that are poorly cared for.

Fungal and infectious diseases of indoor lemon

Let's consider the main diseases of lemons, which are fungal and infectious in nature, their symptoms and methods of treatment.

Most often, indoor lemons are affected by the following fungi and infections:

Gomoz

With homosis, the branches and trunk of the plant become covered with elongated spots of a red-brown hue, under which the bark quickly becomes dead and cracks. The cracks ooze a sticky golden substance that hardens quickly.

Causes of homosis: excessive humidity in the room, cuts or breaks in the bark, deficiency of phosphorus and potassium, excess nitrogen fertilizers, diseased soil or severe deepening of the trunk.

How to treat homosis? We cut off all the spots from the bark of the trunk, treat the sections with a three percent solution and use putty from garden pitch. We repeat the treatment until spots on the trunk bark stop forming. If the branches are covered with spots, cut them off entirely and destroy them.

Anthracnose

This is a fungal disease in which leaves fall off the lemon, and many people do not know what to do about it. First the leaf turns yellow, then flies off, as do the buds. The branches of the plant gradually die off, and red spots appear on the lemon leaves.

To get rid of the fungus, we destroy the dead branches and spray the lemon with Fitosporin or a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture. We spray three times.

Scab

Another fungal disease of indoor lemons is scab, in which young leaves become covered with transparent yellowish spots, gradually turning into pink-gray growths. Spreading over the leaf, these growths destroy it along with the shoots. Fruits with scab become covered with orange spots, which over time become red-brown. At the same time, the lemon drops its fruit.

In order not to destroy the entire plant, we cut and destroy all affected parts of the plant, and spray the crown with one percent Bordeaux mixture.

Melseko

With melseco, the lemon shoots dry out, the foliage falls off, starting from the tips of the branches, and the cut of the branch turns red.

Poor lighting is to blame for this lemon disease: in winter the plant did not have enough light, and it was not illuminated.

There is no treatment for Melseco: we monitor the plant, and if it continues to hurt, we destroy it.

Root rot

If a lemon suddenly drops a leaf, dig it up and inspect the roots. Having discovered rotten roots, we cut them off and replant the lemon in new, disinfected soil.

We place the transplanted plant on a bright windowsill and avoid watering for a week - just wipe the leaves with damp gauze or a sponge.

In addition to infectious and viral diseases, indoor lemons are affected by harmful insects. Let's find out which pests attack lemons grown at home and how to deal with them.

Shchitovka

Scale insect larvae settle on the underside of the leaves and subsequently move to the outside. The plant withers, dries out, and quickly picks up viruses and infections.

To get rid of scale insects, we use a special insecticide or soap solution, for which we dilute 2 tbsp in water (1 liter). any liquid soap. We wet all areas affected by insects with soapy water. We wait one hour, rinse the plant in the shower and repeat the treatment a couple of days later.

Common aphid

Colonies of light green aphids usually settle on young shoots that are not overgrown with bark. First they attack the bottom of the leaf, then move to the top, simultaneously sucking out the juices. The foliage curls up and dies.

If there are only a few aphids, we cut off the affected shoots and destroy them along with the insects, after which we feed the plant with complex fertilizer. If aphids have covered most of the indoor lemon, spray the tree with an insecticide or garlic infusion, for which we peel 4 heads of garlic and soak them in 5 liters for 24 hours. Then we filter.

Spider mite

These insects often attack young twigs and leaves. The foliage curls up and a cobweb appears around it. Lack of air humidity is to blame for the appearance of spider mites.

To get rid of insects, spray the tree with a one percent solution of boric acid, performing the procedure four times.

Root aphid

Unlike ordinary aphids, root aphids found in contaminated soil attack the roots.

To exterminate it, we transplant the lemon into disinfected soil, treating the roots with a contact insecticide or a weak garlic tincture.

In many sources you can find advice on treating lemon with an alcohol solution - this is strictly prohibited. Lemon does not tolerate alcohol.

As you can see, lemon diseases are numerous and sometimes very serious: some lead to the death of the plant. To protect it from harm, plant the plant only in disinfected soil, give it a regular shower and wipe the foliage and branches with wet gauze, treat the crown with soapy water once a month, and inspect the tree more often for diseases or insects.

IN natural conditions lemon is a fairly tall tree with a spreading crown, its height reaches 8 meters.

Of course, it would take up a lot of space in an apartment, so dwarf varieties were bred specifically for home gardening. They are neat bushes that give a very good harvest.

If you decide to grow lemon at home, then pay attention to the following varieties.

1. Meyer, or Chinese dwarf. The most popular variety that does not require special care. Withstands lack of lighting well. The shortest of them all famous varieties. Meyer is a hybrid of lemon and orange, so lemons have a sweet taste. Fruits can set after 18 months of growth, flowering is abundant.
2. Pavlovsky. Bred in the Nizhny Novgorod region. It reaches a height of 1.5 meters, propagates by cuttings and produces a harvest in the third year. From one plant you can get from 10 to 30 thin-skinned, seedless fruits. Flowering occurs twice a year. The tree lives up to 45 years.
3. Novogruzinsky, or New Athos. Quite a tall tree, reaches 2 m. With large leaves and flowers lilac shade. It bears fruit in the 4th-5th year, lemons weighing up to 120 grams, aromatic and tasty.
4. Maikopsky. Medium-dwarf, lush, with a large number of thin branches, produces a lot of tasty fruits.
5. Ponderosa, or Canadian. Hybrid of lemon and grapefruit. Flowering begins in the second year after rooting. The yield is small, from 3 to 7 pieces, but the fruits are large in size, their weight can reach 1 kg. Unpretentious, does not require additional lighting.
6. Eureka. Frost-resistant variety, it can be grown on outdoors in mild climates, can withstand temperatures down to -5 degrees. The fruits appear in the second year of growth, large, thick-skinned and tasty. The plant reaches 1-1.5 meters in height.
7. Genoa. A low-growing bush without thorns. Blooms and bears fruit throughout the year, resistant to unfavorable conditions. It has high productivity.

Whatever variety you choose, with proper care, each tree will delight you with its decorative appearance, lush flowering and yellow or orange lemons.

What to choose – planting seeds or cuttings

Unlike oranges and tangerines, lemon is easy to take cuttings and quickly sprouts from an ordinary seed. How to grow lemon at home - from cuttings or from seeds, which method is better? Let's look at the features and disadvantages of each method.

Seeds

1. You may not even wait for the first harvest; under favorable conditions, fruit will bear fruit no earlier than 6-7 years from the moment of planting.
2. Difficulties with crown formation. The tree should be constantly pruned and monitored for excess branches.
3. Unlike grafted plants, lemons grown from seeds produce a larger yield.

Cuttings

1. Propagation by cuttings allows you to grow a stronger and more viable plant.
2. If the cutting is taken from a fruit-bearing tree, then the probability of getting fruit without additional grafting is very high.
3. Many varieties are propagated only by cuttings, since their fruits do not have seeds.
4. Flowering and setting of lemon trees begins much earlier than those grown from seeds. But cuttings should be taken from a mature plant that has bear fruit at least 2 times.

How to grow lemon yourself?

Have you chosen a method for planting lemons? Well, let's get to work.

Soil requirements

Since lemon will grow in a limited space, it is necessary to choose the right soil for planting and make sure that it is saturated with useful substances.

If you are planning to dig up soil in your garden or vegetable garden, then this is a bad idea. garden soil too dense, does not have proper drainage, and in general it has an incomprehensible composition and is most likely inhabited by small pests in the form of bugs and worms. But if you insist and understand the soil, then take 3 parts of turf soil and one part each of sand and humus. Sod land take under the old ones deciduous trees, except for oak and poplar, cut the layer no deeper than 10 cm.

But it's best to buy from flower shops special mixture for citrus fruits. In extreme cases, a universal substrate will do, but its acidity should be from 5.5 to 6.5 units.

Every 3-4 years the tree needs to be replanted, so throw away the old soil without regret and fill it with fresh new soil.

Lemon roots are small, so there is no need to buy big pot. For a young plant, it is enough that the height of the container is 20 cm, and the diameter of the upper part is no more than 15 cm.

Pot

There is a great variety of pots and pots in stores. What is best for citrus? Let's figure it out.

1. Clay. Clay containers have good porosity and are saturated with water. On the one hand, the tree will not suffer from a lack of moisture, but on the other hand, it may rot from its excess. Rapid evaporation through the walls of the vessel cools the lump of earth, and lemons are tropical plants; this is harmful for them. Salts and minerals, the roots are drawn to nutrients and often grow into the clay. When transplanting, the root system is severely damaged. Well, the fragility of the material is of considerable importance. The slightest blow, and you have to look for a new place of residence.
2. Plastic. Ceramics, of course, are more beautiful than plastic. But plastic is cheap, light and durable. Among the disadvantages, one can note the homogeneous structure, which does not allow excess moisture to evaporate through the walls. But the risk of rotting can be reduced by using drainage bedding on the bottom. Lightness of construction - the tree will be less stable than in a heavy clay pot.
3. Tree. It combines all the advantages of clay and plastic, but fragility and deformation from water are a significant drawback. Usually, a “seasoned” plant that has survived childhood illnesses and a period of growth is transplanted into wooden tubs. In this case, the inner surface is impregnated with special components and lined with film to avoid rotting.

We've sorted out the material, now pay attention to the dimensions. Make sure that the diameter of the top part is approximately equal to the height of the pot. But the bottom should be narrowed. And the more branched the crown, the wider the pot.

Drainage holes are required! Up to 2.5 cm in diameter, and for large capacity better add a couple more.

At every new transplant(every 3-5 years) the pot should grow by two to three centimeters. When the lemon stops growing, it can be left alone, but it is necessary to periodically remove the top layer of “impoverished” soil and add a new nutrient substrate.

You cannot plant a young plant immediately in a large tub, the soil will quickly oxidize and the lemon will hurt.

Disembarkation process

Now let's figure out how to plant a lemon so that it is comfortable and grows quickly. Let's consider two methods: a cutting from an elite variety and an ordinary seed taken from a fruit purchased in a store.

Seeds or pits

There is no need to buy seeds in the store; just take a juicy, ripe fruit and select a few intact seeds.

Now the fun part begins - germination. There are two ways. The first is to poke fresh, just extracted seeds into the ground to a depth of 1-2 centimeters, place them in a bright place without drafts and periodically moisten the ground. Hatching time is up to two weeks.

But since a person is a curious creature, and a woman is doubly so, you will periodically poke around in the pot in search of nascent life, which means you can inadvertently damage the tender shoots. Therefore, let's move on to the second method.

Place the seeds between two layers of cotton wool well moistened with water. You can sometimes satisfy your curiosity by lifting the top layer. As soon as the sprout appears, carefully transfer it to the ground.

You received a cutting from friends who have fruit-bearing lemons. Your actions are as follows.

1. First, you need to know if you got the right cutting. It should reach 10-15 centimeters in length, up to 5 millimeters thick, have a keratinized layer and 3-4 leaves. It is best to immediately dip a fresh cut in ash to prevent rotting. And if you additionally treat it with a growth stimulator, then rooting will take place quickly and without problems.
2. Secondly, for successful cuttings it is necessary to create a favorable microclimate of 20-25 degrees and good lighting.
3. Thirdly, stick the prepared shoots into the soil for citrus plants and spray generously with a spray bottle.

The cuttings will take root very quickly if you provide them with warmth, light and humidity.

Sprout care

Cover sprouts obtained from seeds or unrooted cuttings with transparent plastic cups or glass jars to create a microclimate. Spray young shoots daily and harden them fresh air, temporarily removing the cans.

The sprout from the seed can be released from kindergarten greenhouses when 4 leaves appear. Successful rooting of cuttings is determined by the appearance of new leaves.

Fertilizer and replanting

Young trees practically do not need fertilizing; more mature plants that have reached 3-4 years of age should be additionally fertilized. In the spring-summer period, carry out the procedure once every 3 weeks, and in the cold season - once a month.

You can use folk remedies or buy fertilizers in the store. Use the purchased products according to the instructions.

Young shoots are replanted several times during the year, then replanting depends on the growth of the plant. During active growth– once a year, then every 3-5 years.

The most favorable time is the beginning of spring, when new leaves have not appeared and inflorescences have not formed. You can also replant in the fall before the onset of cold weather.

Tree care

For successful growth and development, lemons need to be provided with good lighting, warmth and humidity. Avoid direct sunlight, it can burn the leaves. It is not recommended to place the pot in a draft.

Watering is moderate, the soil should be slightly moist. Tropical crops love spraying, so shower with a spray bottle more often.

Citrus diseases

When growing citrus trees at home, a number of diseases may occur. Each disease is characterized by certain symptoms and has different effects on plants.

Citrus cancer

Symptoms of the disease appear on the leaves, branches and fruits of plants. At the primary stage of development of citrus canker, small spots form on the underside of the leaves, which eventually spread to other parts of the plantings. As a result of the influence of infection, the affected parts begin to darken and die.

Anthracnose

The disease affects all above-ground elements of the plant. Signs in the form of brown spots appear on the leaves, after which they spread to the trunk and fruits. Due to the deepening of the spots, an obstacle is created for the movement of nutritional components. When the ambient temperature is high, cracks appear in plants affected by anthracnose.

Scab (citrus warts)

The development of scab can be detected by the formation of translucent warts on the entire above-ground part of the trees. As the disease develops, the warts become larger, and the affected elements become deformed, lose nutrients and die. Fruits infected with scab fall prematurely and lose their taste characteristics.

Melsecco

Signs of the disease are chlorotic leaves and drying out branches. The development of melsecco leads to complete drying of the tree. The causes of infection are:

• irrigation violation;
• excess fertilizing;
• freezing of shoots;
• incorrect agricultural technology.

Gommoz

When growing citrus fruits at home, gommosis affects large roots and bark. A sign of the disease is the release of gum from the trunk, branches and leaves. Severely affected plants begin to shed their leaves.

Gommosis slows down the delivery of nutrients to the shoots, so the lack of control leads to their death.

Late blight

Late blight, a common disease, is characterized by the appearance of dark spots with plaque or mold. Affected citrus fruit elements begin to die, causing the entire plant to die. Over time, the fruits lose their presentation and taste characteristics. Late blight can spread from one plant to another.

Melanosis

Infection of citrus fruits with melanosis leads to the appearance of small brown spots on the fruit and foliage. Due to the effects of the disease, the fruits do not reach their maximum possible size, and their shape is distorted. Old trees are most susceptible to melanosis. Damaged parts of plants must be destroyed.

Mycospherellosis

The fungal disease mycospherellosis causes blistering spots to form on the undersides of leaves. Infection leads to leaf drop and damage to the fruit skin. To control the disease, it is necessary to regularly remove fallen leaves, reducing the source of new spores.

Root rot

The cause of root rot is excessive soil moisture or fungal penetration. The presence of infection can be detected by dark spots on the trunk from which liquid is released. Over time, the bark in damaged areas collapses and peels off.

Tristeza

The impact of tristeza extends to all parts of citrus plantings. The primary symptom of the disease is partial or complete cessation of growth and change in leaf color. Gradually, the leaves and branches begin to die, and the shoots emanating from the trunk lose their strength. In some cases, tristeza damage to the roots is observed.

Citrus tree pests

In addition to diseases, harmful insects pose a danger to citrus trees. Negative influence pests leads to the following consequences:

• tree growth retardation;
• death of plant parts;
• reduction in harvest.

The main reason for the appearance of insects is improper care. Other causes include sudden changes in temperature, pronounced aroma of fruits and the presence of plant residues in the soil.

Shchitovka

Small insects stick to the leaves and suck the juice out of them. As a result of the action of the scale insect, the leaves gradually turn yellow, curl and fall off. If you do not start treating the plant in a timely manner, it will stop developing and die. In rare cases, the scale insect damages the fruits, after which they become unfit for consumption.

Spider mite

Due to their small size, it is very difficult to detect mites on citrus fruits. A sign of its appearance is the formation of a thin web with which insects cover fruits and leaves. Pests are able to hide in the soil or in leaf axils.

Greenhouse thrips

The greenhouse variety of thrips is a small pest that lives on ripening fruits and leaves, absorbing nutritional components from them. Blotches and black spots form on the affected parts. Due to the impact of thrips, plant productivity decreases, and the inflorescences become deformed and begin to fall off.

Whitefly

Citrus trees are damaged by adult whiteflies and their larvae. Pests absorb plant juices while on the underside of the foliage. Affected leaves lose strength and fall off. Whitefly larvae excessively absorb sap and secrete liquid, which leads to a deterioration in photosynthesis.

Mealybug

Mealybugs leave a white waxy coating on the surface of the ground parts of trees. Adults also absorb sap from young shoots, which leads to slower growth.

Aphid

The most common pest is aphids, which attack citrus fruits at the time of intensive development of new shoots. The insect sucks out nutrients, slows growth and causes early leaf fall. When settling on indoor plants, aphids carry various infections.

Garden slug

Slugs occur in damp areas and gnaw through fruits and foliage. Insects hide in dense foliage and damp shelters, crawling out to vegetation during the dark period.

Earthworms

The appearance of earthworms is accompanied by liquid sticky secretions that can harm trees. At the same time, insects aerate the earth, providing air flow to the roots. The presence of earthworms near citrus fruits is beneficial, so if you find insects, you should inspect the plantings and their condition more often.

Citrus nematode

The main reason for the development of the citrus nematode is initially contaminated soil and a lack of organic fertilizers.

How to fight if scale insects attack lemons

Particularly dangerous pests of homemade lemons are scale insects. When they appear on leaves and branches, convex oval plates about 4 mm long are formed. Having chosen for yourself the most suitable place, the larvae of scale insects stick tightly to it, gradually becoming covered with a dark shell, and it is very difficult to see them.

There are several varieties of scale insects: black, patterned, yellow-brown, spotted, round and oval. All varieties cause great harm to the plant. As practice shows, it is not easy to fight them, since the wax shield formed around the scale insect protects it from external influences, including the effects of pesticides. When living on a plant for a long time, the pest manages to multiply and infect neighboring trees.

The first sign of the appearance of this insect is a sticky, transparent coating on the leaves, reminiscent of syrup. Affected trees quickly weaken, become depleted and dry out.

If a scale insect has attacked lemons, you can use modern insecticides to destroy it: “Aktara”, “Aktellik”, “Fitoverm” and others. When watered or sprayed with insecticides, the plant absorbs poison, and its juice becomes poisonous. The scale insect sucks out the poison and dies. After processing the tree, the top layer of soil is replaced with fresh one. Spraying is carried out 3-5 times with an interval of 15 days. The disadvantage of this method of control is that the fruits after processing the citrus will be unsuitable for food.

There is another way to deal with scale insects on lemon. The leaves are washed with soapy water or tobacco infusion (50 g of tobacco dissolved in 1 liter of water). The solution is infused for 2 days. Washing is carried out several times a day.

Good effect gives a soap solution consisting of green soap (5 g) and anabasine sulfate (2 g). These components are mixed in 1 liter of warm water, and the affected plants are washed with the prepared solution. After a day, the solution is washed off with clean water. This treatment is carried out once a week for a month.

Lemon scale is removed using a soap-kerosene emulsion. Add 10 g of kerosene and 5 g of soap to a liter of water. The tree is sprayed 1-2 times a week.

Lemon pests: spider mites and their photos

Spider mites on lemons attack young leaves and immature shoots. It settles on the underside of the leaf blade along the veins and feeds on the juice of the leaves, after which they turn yellow and dry out. It is quite difficult to detect a tick with the naked eye, since this pest reaches no more than 1-2 mm. Signs of its appearance are small, light dots - places where the leaf plate is punctured. In some cases, the leaves curl up, and cobwebs can be seen on their reverse side. New mites hatch in the web, and the affected leaf falls off.

Spider mites can be red, yellow, orange, white, or transparent. The most common pest of indoor lemons is the red spider mite.

If an insect is detected, the tree is sprayed with sulfur. Pesticides are also used to destroy it. For preventative purposes, the lemon is washed under running water, paying more attention to the underside of the leaves. Spraying the affected plant with water and laundry soap has a good effect.

Spider mites do not tolerate ultraviolet rays, so when fighting them, citrus is placed under a special ultraviolet lamp for 1.5-2 minutes. This session is not only harmless to the plant, but increases its resistance to diseases and pests

To destroy spider mites, you can use 35% sulfaride paste. The tree is treated with this solution 3-5 times with an interval of 7-10 days. However, such treatment is not recommended at the flowering and fruit set stage.

Aphids on homemade lemons: how to get rid of them

Aphids are small, light green insects 1-3 mm long. It quickly increases its numbers, occupying the trunk, leaves, ovaries, and shoots of the tree in large colonies. It produces 10-20 generations per season. It sucks juice from leaves and young shoots, after which the leaf plate is deformed and the ends of the shoots are bent.

It is quite easy to detect the pest, since aphids on homemade lemons are clearly visible due to their light color.

In order to prevent the occurrence of aphids, citrus leaves and branches are washed 3-4 times a month under running warm water. During bathing, cover the soil with polyethylene. In addition, they periodically inspect the lemon in order to notice the insect at an early stage, when it will be easier to get rid of it.

Garlic water effectively fights the appearance of aphids. A crushed head of garlic is placed in a glass hot water and insist for 2 days. The tree is sprayed with the prepared infusion every other day for a week. After 5 days, the procedure is repeated.

You can get rid of the insect by treating it with dichlorvos. To do this, the lemon is placed in a plastic bag, into which a cotton swab soaked in dichlorvos is placed. The plant is left in this position for 5 hours, after which the leaves are washed or sprayed with warm, clean water.

A solution of 3% acetic acid will repel aphids. Wipe the plant thoroughly with this solution.

In order to prevent the appearance of aphids, it is recommended to place geranium next to the citrus, the aroma of which this insect cannot tolerate.

A strong solution of table salt (70g per 1 liter of water) will help to completely destroy the pest. Lemon is sprayed with saline solution 3-4 times with an interval of 5 days.

Chemicals are used only in cases where other methods do not help.

Mealybug on lemon

When a mealybug infests a lemon, a fluffy white coating appears on the leaves. In addition, clear, sugary discharge may appear. This pest sucks juices from young shoots, buds and leaves, and attacks the root system. At the same time, the growth of the tree slows down significantly.

There are several varieties of mealybug. Depending on the type, its dimensions vary from 3 to 6 mm.

To avoid the appearance of mealybugs, it is necessary to monitor the humidity in the room. It should be quite high (70-80%). The plant should be kept clean and damaged leaves and flowers should be promptly removed.

When a tree is damaged by this insect, drugs such as karbofos, Intavir, Decis and others are used.

You can use other methods to combat the mealybug. Citrus leaves and stems are washed with soapy water or garlic infusion with soap. To prepare the infusion, pour several cloves of garlic into 0.5 liters of hot boiled water and infuse for 4 hours. After this, the infusion is filtered and applied to the affected parts of the plant.

Other lemon pests at home

The citrus nematode is a small, transparent or white worm. It gnaws through the roots, settles in them and sucks out the plant juice. At the same time, the lemon leaves begin to fall off rapidly. If you dig up the roots, you can find small swellings or growths on them, and the pest lives in them.

Chemicals are used to control nematodes. It is useful to apply when it appears organic fertilizers, which will help restore the soil and create conditions for the life of natural enemies of nematodes: ants, springtails, mites and other insects.

To prevent lemon pests from appearing at home, it is recommended to carry out prevention. To do this, citrus leaves are regularly sprayed or wiped, especially on the underside. It is useful to periodically wipe the wood with soapy water with the addition of laundry soap, followed by rinsing with warm water.

The photo below shows some lemon pests: